Tag: Fishkeeping

  • The 9 Best Aquarium Test Kits For 2026 โ€“ Reviewed

    The 9 Best Aquarium Test Kits For 2026 โ€“ Reviewed

    Test kits are something I use every single week โ€” across freshwater and saltwater tanks. Over 25 years I’ve worked through a lot of them, from cheap strip kits that give you a rough ballpark to professional-grade liquid reagent kits I now rely on. Getting your water parameters right starts with trusting your test results, and not all kits earn that trust. Here’s what I actually recommend.

    Are you struggling to find an reliable aquarium test kit?

    In this blog, we share the best aquarium test kits, from test strips to digital readers.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their water chemistry issues. Iโ€™ve personally tested these kits in real world scenarios to determine the best test kits to buy today.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice – Freshwater
    API Master
    • Multiple parameters
    • Easy to use
    • Easy to find
    Editor’s Choice – Saltwater
    Red Sea Marine Care
    • Various Parameters
    • Easy to use
    • Easy to find
    Most Accurate
    Hanna Checker
    • Very accurate
    • Easy to use

    There are many kits available, so why not start with our top picks? Above, we have the API Master test kit, the most comprehensive kit you can buy for freshwater, and the Red Sea Marine Care, which covers the bases for most saltwater aquarium beginners. The Hanna rounds out the picks as the most accurate.

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparision

    I have to combine freshwater and saltwater test kits in one post. Below are the best test kits that get the job done for most aquarists.

    PictureNameParametersLink
    Editor’s Choice – Freshwater
    API Freshwater Master Test Kit
    API Freshwater Master Test Kit

    Various

    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Editor’s Choice – Saltwater
    Red Sea Marine Care Aquarium Test Kit
    Red Sea Marine Care Aquarium Test Kit

    Various

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Seachem Ammonia Alert Seachem Ammonia Alert

    Free Ammonia

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    C02Art Drop Check Kit C02Art Drop Check Kit

    CO2

    Click For Best Price
    Salifert Master Reef Aquarium Test Kit Combo Salifert Master Reef Aquarium Test Kit Combo

    Reef Tank Parameters

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Nyos Nitrate Test Kit Nyos Nitrate Test Kit

    Nitrate

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Hanna Checker Alkalinity Aquarium Test Kit Hanna Checker Alkalinity Aquarium Test Kit

    Alkalinity

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Hanna Checker ULR Phosphate Test Kit Hanna Checker ULR Phosphate Test Kit

    Phosphate

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    API Freshwater 5 in 1 Test Strips API Freshwater 5 in 1 Test Strips

    Various

    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon

    The 9 Best Aquarium Test Kits

    Each aquarium test kit has their own purposes and strengths. I will go in further detail below

    1. API Freshwater Master – The Choice For Beginners

    The API Freshwater Master Aquarium Test Kit is a higher end version of their 5 in 1 test strips. This aquarium water test kit allow you to check on your pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels. Because the API Freshwater Master Test Kit uses test tubes versus test strips, it is a little more complex to use but nothing a beginner can’t figure out. This freshwater master test kit is the recommended kit for a freshwater aquarist who is starting out. API also sells an API Saltwater Master Test Kit and a Reef Master Test Kit, but there are better test kits on this list better suited for saltwater and reef tanks. Overall, this is a comprehensive and affordable freshwater master test kit.

    Just like with the test strips, the API master test kit is also a very common test kit that specialty local fish stores will use when you bring in your water to test. This is because these aquarium test kits are cheap to use. Keep that in mind if you want to save some money or want to double verify test results.

    My biggest gripe with this master test kit is the ammonia test kit. It is a total ammonia kit not a free ammonia tester. Because of that, it is common to get false positive test results, especially on the saltwater master test kit (which is why I don’t recommend them for saltwater tanks). The color gauge is not easy to read as well. 

    Pros

    • Easy to use
    • Has all the basic parameter needs to test in a freshwater fish tank

    Cons

    • Usually free to get at specialty local fish stores
    • Ammonia test is total ammonia not free ammonia test
    • Color gauge can be hard to read or interpret at times

    2. Red Sea Marine – The Top Pick for Saltwater Beginners

    Editor’s Choice – Saltwater
    Red Sea Marine Care Kit

    The Aquarium Test Kit For Saltwater

    This kit from Red Sea has all the essentials need to start your Saltwater Aquarium journey!

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    When I talked to people just starting out in the saltwater tank hobby and they are looking for a master saltwater test kit, the Red Sea Marine Care Multi Test Kit is my usual recommendation. This test kit includes tests for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, pH, and Alkalinity. It is a very generous test kit as well as you get 100 ammonia tests and 100 nitrate test. This should easily last you until the test kits expire. 

    I prefer this saltwater aquarium test kit over because they are superior quality then what the local specialty stores will usually use (API) and the nitrate test kit has a large range. Red Sea sells a nitrate pro test kit which has two different tests for low and high range. I prefer this test kit over the pro as the majority of beginners shouldn’t really have to work with ultra low levels of nitrates.

    I also really like how this includes an Alkalinity test, which will help ease your way into reef tank keeping if you chose to do that in the future.

    It is a pricey kit compared to what API offers, but it’s a sound investment if you want to dive into saltwater aquarium keeping.

    Pros

    • Includes alkalinity test
    • Good ammonia test kit
    • Easy to read for a beginner kit

    Cons

    • Fairly pricey
    • Nitrate test is not low range for ultra low nutrient tanks

    3. SeaChem Ammonia Alert

    SeaChem Ammonia Alert

    A must for any aquarium setup. Tests free ammonia and monitors it 24-7

    Buy on Amazon Click For Best Price

    The SeaChem Ammonia Alert badge has been a mainstay for me in every aquarium I have setup. I use them on every quarantine tank I use and they go into freshwater and saltwater tanks. What sets this ammonia test kit apart from others is that it is a free ammonia tester. Free ammonia is the type of ammonia we really want to look out for as it is the most deadly.

    Many aquarium water test kits only measure total ammonia, which doesn’t give you the full picture. It also measures your ammonia levels in your aquarium water 24-7 so you will know right away if something is off. Given they work 24-7 and last a long amount of time, these are a great buy.

    The main thing with these kits is getting a proper read on the badge. I would recommend that you shine a light on the back of the badge to get an accurate measurement if you can’t tell if it is yellow or another color. They also tend to last more like 3-6 months instead of a year. Overall, these have served me very well over the years and I continue to use them. 

    Pros

    • Monitors free ammonia 
    • Monitors ammonia levels 24-7
    • Cheap

    Cons

    • Can be hard to read
    • Usually won’t last for a year like the package states

    4. CO2 Art Drop Checker – For Planted Tanks

    One of the trickier things to do in a freshwater planted tank is testing your CO2 levels. A CO2 drop checker is a great way to consistency monitor your CO2 levels. It comes with a Glass CO2 checker and a 15ml drop checker solution. It’s a reasonably priced solution that is easy to setup in a planted tank.

    If you are want to make your own test solution, here is a detailed video below so you can save a few dollars.

    To me, this is essential test equipment for a serious planted tank. The color chart can be a little hard to read at times, but if you want to monitor your CO2 levels constantly, this is the way to go.

    Pros

    • Easy to use
    • High quality

    Cons

    • Color chart can be hard to read

    5. Red Sea Marine – The Top Saltwater Pick

    Great For Reef Tanks
    Salifert Master Reef Kit

    This kit has every thing you need to test your reef tank parameters

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    When I talk to folks who are starting to get into reef tanks and want a comprehensive test kit that covers all essential parameters of a reef tank, I point them towards the Salifert Test Kit Combos. This has 6 tests in total, pH, Nitrate, Magnesium, Phosphate, Alkalinity, and Calcium. You can run any reef tank setup you desire with this test kit package. 

    This will get you going for a reef tank. It is on the pricey side, but keep in mind that you are getting 6 test kits at once. For those of you looking for a digital readout that is easy to read, look at the Hanna Checkers listed below in this post.

    Pros

    • Comprehensive – has every test kit you need to run a reef tank
    • High quality test kits overall
    • One of the better calcium test kits on the market

    Cons

    • Pricey
    • No digital read out like Hannas

    6. Nyos Nitrate – For Saltwater Tanks

    Best For Nitrate Testing
    NYOS Nitrate Test Kit

    The best nitrate test kit on the market. Very accurate and easy to use

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    If I have a saltwater hobbyist looking for a high quality nitrate test kit as a single purchase, the Nyos Nitrate Test Kit is the test I recommend. It’s the easy to read, easiest to know, one of the most accurate, and covers a wide range of levels. 

    I actually have a Red Sea saltwater aquarium test kit that I usually use, but once I ran out of nitrate tests, I switched to this kit. It’s just far easier to use and read in my opinion and I continue to use this kit today on my reef tanks.

    Pros

    • Easy to use
    • Cheaper than other kits
    • Easy to read test results

    Cons

    • No ideal for ultra low nutrient tanks

    7. Hanna Checker Alkalinity – For Reef Tanks

    Hanna Alkalinity Checker

    The most accurate Alkanity test on the market. Highly recommended for reef tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Reef tank enthusiasts demand high end solutions for their aquariums. The Hanna Checker Alkalinity tester is one such solution. It is a very easy to use and very accurate test kit. I am a big fan of Hanna Checkers because they give you a digital readout so there is no guess work on reading some color chart or trying to figure out the colors. 

    It is an expensive kit though. The kit itself is as expensive as the test combos from Salifert and Hanna is known for having test regents that do not last very long. The refills from Hanna will only last 25 tests so keep this in mind if you want to purchase one. It is a very accurate kit though and I would highly recommend it if you are planning to keep a high end reef full of stony corals.

    Pros

    • Extremely accurate test results with no guess work
    • Very quick to test

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Regents do not last very long

    8. Hanna Checker ULR – For Reef Tanks

    Hanna Phosphate Checker

    The most accurate phosphate checker on the market. Great for low nutrient reef tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Phosphate level testing is a major deal in a reef tank. Too low can result in nuisance outbreaks like dinoflagellates and bleaching of stony corals while too high can lead to nuisance algae. I prefer Hanna’s ULR Phosphate tester over their standard test as it is more accurate. 

    This is an expensive test kit, but it is the phosphate tester of choice in the industry without a doubt. It is extremely accurate and delivers results quickly.

    Pros

    • Extremely accurate with no guess work
    • Very quick to test

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Regents do not last very long

    9. API Freshwater 5 in 1 Strips – Easy and Affordable

    API Test Strips

    This is a basic test kit that are used in many pet stores. There are better options, but this is readily available at most stores

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The API 5 in 1 test strips are a great way for a beginner to test their freshwater tank. The aquarium test strips will test pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Carbonate and General Hardness. With the exception of ammonia, this has everything you need to test your freshwater aquarium. It is very easy to you as all you need to do is get some sample water from your aquarium and dip the strip. The results show up quickly you can compare to the color chart that comes with API test kits. These test strips are also one of the most affordable kits in the hobby.

    Because a test strip kit is so affordable, it is the test kit you will see used by aquatic departments at chain pet stores. These test strips are not very accurate, which is why this is not recommended for saltwater aquariums. It also lacks an ammonia test, so you will have to purchase a separate tester for that.  

    Pros

    • 5 tests in one
    • Simple to use
    • Cheap

    Cons

    • Free to get at many local chain stores
    • No ammonia test
    • Not super accurate

    Why Do We Test Our Water?

    It is a really good question to ask. It’s really easy for an experienced fishkeeper to say that you must perform water testing because it’s a good habit. I see it differently. To me, this is like getting a check up on your tank. You can see what is out of wack, or how much you need to change to get it back in balance. Ideally, you will want to perform water testing before you make a water change because they will tell you where your levels peak. Here are other reasons.

    When your tank is new

    This is the major reason to get into the habit of water testing. New tanks are unstable and if you are doing a fishless cycle, you will need to test your water to see when it is safe to add fish and other inhabitants into your tank. Testing for Ammonia and Nitrites is really important when you are going through the cycling process. As your tank matures, you will be mostly focused on nitrates and pH levels.

    It will tell you if you need to dose

    Both planted tanks and saltwater reef tanks have additional parameters you need to monitor to ensure healthy growth of your plants or corals. If parameters are unstable, your plants or corals will suffer. Testing parameters like alkalinity tells you if you need to adjust your dosing schedule. The amount you need to dose changes over time as your plants or corals grow.

    It will tell you if a water change is actually necessary

    Believe it or not, planted tanks and saltwater reef tanks can be built so that constantly changing your water can be a thing of the past. I’ve frequently built reef tanks that had complete nitrogen cycles. They were so efficient that I had a lack of nitrates and phosphates, and I actually had to dose them to keep my corals healthy!

    In most setups, with plants and modern reefs you may not need to change your water every week. This is where water testing comes into play. Test your water quality and see where your levels stand. If the water conditions are stable and not out of wack, then there is no need to make a water change!

    It’s best to only perform water changes when they are necessary – especially with reef tanks. They thrive off stability in your tank water. The more delicate corals you have, the more stability comes into play. If you change water when it’s not necessary your levels will change and may cause stress to your more sensitive corals like SPS corals.

    Parameters for a Freshwater Tanks

    Let’s talk about the water quality parameters you want to test for in a freshwater aquarium. Below are the main water parameters to test on a regular basis:

    Ammonia

    Ammonia is the result of waste being excreted from fish and decaying matter. There are two types of ammonia that are present in the aquarium, These are total ammonium (NH4) and free ammonia (NH3). Total ammonia is the ionized version of ammonia. While it is toxic, it is not as toxic as free ammonia in your tank water.

    Most water test kits will test for total ammonia, which can make the test results of the testing kit not always as reliable. Free ammonia is the most dangerous form of ammonia. Test kits that detect free ammonia are considered more reliable to use.

    Nitrite

    As bacteria breaks down ammonia, it converts ammonia to Nitrite, a less toxic substance. While it is less toxic than ammonia, over time, high levels of nitrite will disrupt the metabolism of your fish and eventually destroy their oxygen carrying cells, resulting in the suffocation and death of your inhabitants.

    Nitrate

    The third form of the nitrogen cycle. This is the least toxic of the 3 forms in the nitrogen cycle and will be present in your water. At low levels it is not toxic to your fish, but at elevated levels it will cause stress to your fish and make them susceptible to disease.

    Nitrates can be managed with a proper water change schedule. It is one of the parameters you will always need to test regularly with accurate aquarium test kits.

    pH

    pH is the measurement of hydrogen ions. The lower the pH of the aquarium water, the more acidic it is and the higher the pH the more alkaline it is. In freshwater aquariums, different setups will have different pH needs so do your research on what pH level is desired for the inhabitants you keep. In general, pH for freshwater aquariums range from 6-8. It is also important to point out that ammonia is more toxic to fish at higher pH levels and the production of nitrifying bacteria slows down when pH goes below 6.

    Water Hardness

    Aquarium water hardness is the measurement of calcium and magnesium ions. Some fish thrive in hard water, like cichlids while other fish like discus prefer soft water. Hardness is also really important for fish breeders, as some types of fry require soft water. To know your ideal hardness, it is best to research the specific type of fish you want to keep and check their requirements as it varies in a freshwater tank.

    Carbonate Hardness (KH)

    The range for carbonate hardness depends on your inhabitants in the freshwater aquarium. Some species prefer a low carbonate hardness while others require a higher carbonate hardness. The key is that once you know the appropriate water conditions and carbonate hardness levels, you should maintain this water quality in your tank.

    Parameters for a Freshwater Planted Tank

    These are additional water quality parameters to test for in a freshwater planted tank.

    Phosphate

    Phosphate is a nutrient that supports photosynthesis. It’s a parameter that is vital to maintain for freshwater aquariums.

    Iron

    With planted tanks there are macronutrients to supplement like nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Iron is what we call a micronurient. It is a trace element that is needed for plants and one of the common miconutrients that we monitor in planted tanks.

    Parameters for a Saltwater Tank

    The main parameters in a saltwater tank are mostly the same, and are Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrite, Phosphate, and pH. The other main parameter is salinity.

    Salinity can be measured with a refractometer and regularly calibrating it with a calibration fluid. For tanks with saltwater fish only, you can run your aquarium at 1.020, but reef tanks will generally run at 1.025 – 1.026 or 35 PPM. Salinity can change as your water evaporates over time. In order to prevent swings, consider investing in an auto top off unit. These units will fill your aquarium with fresh water and keep your water level and salinity stable.

    My Pick
    Refractometer

    A basic refractometer and calibration fluid is all you need to efficiently measure salinity

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    Parameters for a Saltwater Reef Tank

    When you move into a saltwater reef tank, there are more water parameters to test in order to ensure your corals thrive. Below are the main parameters to test.

    Alkalinity

    As mentioned in our Best Reef Salt Mix post, alkalinity is the fuel to build coral skeletons. Calcium and alkalinity relate to each which is way two-part solution is a common way of supplementing alkalinity.

    Calcium

    Calcium is used when corals build their skeletons and also by coralline algae. Without calcium, your corals will not build their skeleton and cannot maintain them.

    Magnesium

    This is the catalyst for the reefs. Without magnesium, the elements in the reef tank cannot interact.

    Trace Elements

    Elements like Silica, Iodine, Strontium, Boron, Iron, and minor trace elements are typically tested through ICP water testing, which is something to consider if you are planning to run an advanced reef tank filled with Acropora corals.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How Often Should I Check My Water?

    I would recommend that you test your water once a week, on the same day, and around the same time. Let your test parameters dictate when you need to make a water change. This statement is especially relevant for heavily planted freshwater tanks and saltwater tanks with live rock and corals. Plants and corals can remove nitrates and phosphates in the aquarium to the point where you may not need to do water changes as frequently. In these environments, you can have water that is too clean which means your plants and corals may not thrive because nutrients are not available for your plants and corals to grow. As long as you test every week you can say on top of the changes in you aquarium and adjust your maintenance and dosing schedule as needed.

    Do They Expire?

    They actually do. Most test kits will expire in about 1 to 2 years. You should always check the expiration on your test kits and replace when the date passes. The expiration is a guarantee on accuracy as the regents have a limited shelf life. They lose their potency over time leading to less accurate tests.ย 

    What is the Top Freshwater Choice?

    I feel that the API Master Test Kit is the best freshwater kit available. It has just about everything you need to start out and is fairly accurate for a freshwater aquarist. It is cheap and will last a long time. Really can’t ask for more.

    What is the Top Saltwater Choice?

    Without a doubt, theย Red Sea Marine Care Multi Test Kitย is the best core test kit to buy for a saltwater aquarium. It is a higher grade test than what you will get at the local fish store and it comes with an alkalinity tester so you are covered if you decide to move onto a reef tank in the future.

    What is the Top Saltwaterย Reefย Choice?

    If you are looking for the highest grade equipment for your reef tank, you cannot go wrong with Hanna Checkers for Alkalinity and Phosphate. For Nitrate, I feel the that Nyos test kit is the best. For everything else, I would consider Salifert.

    If you are running a high end SPS coral tank with designer acropora, I would highly recommend doing ICP testing to regularly check on all essential parameters.

    What should I check for in my tank water?

    The most basic water parameters to test in any aquarium water would be ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. Other parameters to test will be required depending on your setup. Planted tanks require Phosphate, Iron, and CO2 levels to be monitored. Saltwater tanks require salinity. Saltwater reef tanks require alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium

    How Accurate Are The Strips?

    They are accurate for basic setups. However, as you advance in the hobby you will want more accurate testing which is why I recommend API test kits for freshwater and Red Seas kits for saltwater

    Conclusion

    Aquarium test kits do not need to be complicated. As you have seen from many of these test kits, nearly all of them are easy to use and understand. Testing your water is a regular part of aquarium maintenance. Continue to test your water weekly to keep up with changes in your tank. This will allow you to respond before things go downhill. I hope this guide help you get the test kits that work with your budget and needs for your aquarium. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • The 7 Best Reef Salt Mixes of 2026 โ€“ Reviewed And Tested

    The 7 Best Reef Salt Mixes of 2026 โ€“ Reviewed And Tested

    Reef salt mix is one of those decisions that quietly affects everything in your tank โ€” alkalinity swings, coral growth, and even equipment longevity. I’ve mixed and tested a lot of these for my 125-gallon reef over the years, and the differences between brands are more significant than most beginners realize. Some are dead-on consistent batch to batch; others drift enough to cause problems. Here’s what I’ve found actually holds up.

    Are you struggling with finding a quality reef salt mix?

    In this blog, we share the best salt mix products for reef tanks, from those designed for high end reefs to basic salts meant for fish only tanks.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their salt mix decisions (and believe me, there are so many mixes out there). Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best reef salt maxes on the market.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice!
    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt
    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt
    • For The Pro Reefer
    • Best SPS Salt
    Best Value
    Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt
    Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt
    • Great Value & Great Salt
    • Best Mixed Reef Salt
    Budget Option
    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals
    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals
    • Great Price
    • Best Beginner Salt

    It really depends on what corals you are planning to keep. There is a quick list for you depending on your needs below:

    The Candidates

    Now let’s talk about the reef salt mix candidates themselves. Below is a list of the best reef salt mixes available today.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt
    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt

    SPS Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy on Amazon
    Best Value
    Brightwell Aquatics Neomarine Salt
    Brightwell Aquatics Neomarine Salt

    SPS Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals
    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals

    Mixed Reefs

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Premium Pick
    Aquaforest Probiotic Reef Salt
    Aquaforest Probiotic Reef Salt

    SPS Tanks

    Click For Best Price
    Red Sea Coral Pro Salt Red Sea Coral Pro Salt

    SPS Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Instant Ocean Sea Salt Instant Ocean Sea Salt

    Fish Only Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Fritz Reef Pro Mix Fritz Reef Pro Mix

    LPS & Mixed Reefs

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon

    The 7 Top Reviews (Updated 2023)

    Now let’s go into detail and see why each mix was picked

    1. Tropic Marin Pro – For SPS Tanks

    Editor’s Choice!
    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt

    The Best Reef Salt Mix

    With pharmaceutical level ingredients and a guarantee of all 70 trace elements, Tropic Marin is ideal for tanks full of designer corals

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt is the best salt mix you can purchase for your reef tank available on the market today – period. It is formulated with pharmaceutical level ingredients and one of the fully synthetic salt mixes on this list (Brightwell being the other).  

    Tropic Marin is a brand you may not see regularly at the local fish store or chain stores, but they have been a major name brand all across the world, particularly in Europe. 

    The pro reef salt has the most ideal big three parameters for SPS tanks. The parameters out of the boxes are perfect and makes it very safe to make water changes so you don’t have to worry about swings when you make a water change. The stability and quality control of this mix makes this pretty much a must for those with the most demanding corals like Acroporas.

    It’s the one of most expensive marine salts on the list, but if you have prized designer SPS corals, Tropic Marine Pro is what you will want in your reef aquarium.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 8.5 DKH
    • Calcium – 450 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1380 PPM

    Pros

    • Pharmaceutical level ingredients 
    • Perfect big 3 parameters out of the box
    • Guarantees ALL 70 trace elements found in seawater 
    • Great quality control and brand name

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Hard to find locally

    Best For: SPS Tanks

    2. Brightwell Aquatics Neomarine – The Choice For Worldwide Corals

    Best Value
    BrightWell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt

    Best Value

    The salt of choice for World Wide Corals. It is a top tier salt mix with a reasonable price

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    I’ve recommended Brightwell Aquatics products in the past like their Neophos and Mircobacter 7. The founder of Brightwell is the former owner of Kent Marine and their products are extensively researched and tested over a multi-year period. The Brightwell NeoMarine Salt is so well regarded, that it is the reef salt of choice for World Wide Corals, one of the major coral sellers in the United States. 

    Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt not only has all the essential elements of a salt mix, but also does not have anti-caking agents. Anti-caking agents tend to turn your saltwater holding buckets and vats brown over time. What I feel separates NeoMarine from other salt mixes aside from their research and efforts are the parameters of the salt.

    Many reef mixes you will see on this list will have evaluated Alkalinity. NeoMarine has a lower Alkalinity, which is great for SPS tanks. SPS tanks need to have extremely stable levels in the aquarium and having a mix with evaluated ALK can be catastrophic as the Alkalinity levels can spike after a water change. This mix is perfect as you can dose to 7.5 – 8.0 and not worry about a water change completely throwing off your key parameters. 

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 7.5 DKH
    • Calcium – 413 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1290 PPM

    Pros

    • Low ALK is perfect for SPS tanks
    • Salt mix package is measure at 35 PPM – you will actually get the volume stated on the box
    • Used by big coral dealers

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Low ALK can be a disadvantage for those who don’t dose (e.g. – nanoreef tanks)
    • Hard to find locally

    Best For: SPS Tanks

    3. Instant Ocean Crystals – Budget Friendly

    Budget Option
    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals

    Budget Option

    The of the most available and affordable salt mix. Many successful reefs use this salt

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    Instant Ocean Reef Crystals Reef Salt is the budget friendly reef salt for many of us with reef tanks. It is also the most readily available reef salt on the market so if you are in a rush or bind it’s very easy to get locally even from a chain pet store. It’s the same quality and field tested Instant Ocean salt we are familiar with the industry, but with a better formula designed for mixed reef tanks.

    There are many incredible looking reef tanks that use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and you will save some money using it over the other brands. There are a few cons here though. The first thing is the anti-caking agents in the salt mix. If you keep water changing stations or store saltwater there is a high likelihood that the agents will eventually encrust your containers with brown crud. This is really annoying to clean and can lead you to having to replace containers.

    The other issue is the evaluated alkalinity of the mix. Instant Ocean Reef Crystals can be as high as 13, which can be disastrous to an SPS tank after a water change. This salt will work great for softy and LPS tanks that can take the swings better, but you run the risk of problems after water changes with this mix with sensitive SPS corals like Acros.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 13 DKH
    • Calcium – 490 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1440 PPM

    Pros

    • Cheap for a reef salt mix
    • Readily available everywhere
    • Great quality control and proven field results

    Cons

    • High alkalinity makes this not safe for Acro heavy tanks
    • Anti-caking agents

    Best For: Mixed Reef Tanks

    4. AquaForest Probiotic – The Only One That Is ICP Tested

    Premium Pick
    Aquaforest Probiotic Reef Salt Mix

    The Europeans do it again with a revolutionary probiotic salt mix. Every batch is ICP tested

    Click For Best Price

    AquaForest has been quietly making a name for itself in the reef industry. They started in Europe in the late 1990s and recently entered into the US Market. With brand names like Instant Ocean and Red Sea dominating online and Fritz’s presence at local fish stores, AquaForest is unknown to most hobbyist.

    However, this is the best salt money can buy today. Every batch is ICP tested. In fact, you can look up the test results online with every salt bucket you purchase. The owner of AquaForest uses all his products on his tanks. If you have seen his Instagram channel, you can see how incredible his tanks look.

    It is very expensive and hard to find locally, but if you have designer SPS corals, this is the reef salt to buy. It doesn’t make the #1 pick because of its price, not because of its quality.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 8.3 DKH
    • Calcium – 460 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1360 PPM

    Pros

    • All salt batches ICP tested
    • Probiotics
    • Great field results

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Hard to find locally

    Best For: SPS Tanks

    5. Red Sea Coral Pro – Made From the Actual Red Sea

    Red Sea Coral Pro Salt is about as close as you can get from natural sea water from how they formulate their mix. The salt is collected from the Red Sea. This produces an all natural eco-friendly mix that is one of the best mixes in the industry. You can learn more about their process in the video below: 

    Red sea coral pro salt is one of the more trusted mixes used by frag sellers and SPS stick heads. There are actually two mixes Red Sea sells. The pro mix has higher alkalinity while the regular Red Sea mix has lower alkalinity. Both work great, but I would lean on the regular mix if you have a heavy SPS tank for better Alkalinity stability. 

    The main issue with the Red Sea Coral Pro is its availability.  Chain stores do not carry it and you will mostly see higher end local fish stores that specialize in marine livestock carry them.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 12.2 DKH
    • Calcium – 450 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1340 PPM

    Pros

    • Naturally harvested
    • Two choices with regular and pro depending on what alkalinity you desire
    • Great quality control and brand name

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Hard to find locally

    Best For: SPS Tanks

    6. Instant Ocean – Top Choice For Fish Only Tanks

    Instant Ocean Sea Salt

    Instant Ocean Sea Salt is the best selling aquarium salt in the world. Used by public aquariums and research facilities

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    Instant Ocean Sea Salt is the most used sea salt in the world. Used by hobbyists, public aquariums, and research facilities. Instant Ocean has been a mainstay in the industry for over 50 years. They have created the benchmark for the industry and quality control standards. No other salt on the market has the history and field results of proven usage then the Instant Ocean brand.

    That being said, Instant Ocean Sea Salt is made for fish only tanks. It does not have the evaluated levels and trace elements that Reef Crystals have. However, it is a great aquarium salt mix for those with fish only, fish only with live rock, and soft coral dominated tanks. The mix also has anti-caking agents which will turn your buckets and holding vats brown over time with crud making non-ideal to use for those who like to store saltwater.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 11 DKH
    • Calcium – 400 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1350 PPM

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Readily available everywhere
    • Great quality control and proven field results

    Cons

    • Lacks evaluated levels and elements for hard coral heavy reef tanks
    • Anti-caking agents

    Best For: Fish Only Tanks

    7. Fritz Pro Mix – Readily Available Quick Mixing Product

    Fritz Reef Pro Mix

    One of the fastest dissolving and readily available salt mixes at local fish stores

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    If you follow reef YouTubers around, you likely have heard of Fritz Reef Pro Mix. Fritz has a big marketing machine that sponsors a lot of YouTubers and they tend to be everywhere at the local fish stores. While they are everywhere, this is not the best reef salt mix on the list. It’s mostly on here because it’s so readily available at local fish stores and they regularly go on sale where you can purchase boxes at huge discounts.

    The main advantage with Fritz Reef Pro Mix is that it mixes very fast. I would say the mix time is around that of Brightwell’s product. For a mixed reef and smaller reef tanks I would say this is a great salt mix for you. However, if you are serious about Acropora corals, I would steer away from this mix.

    This is because it is well documented that Fritz has had quality control issues in the past. When they first went to market, there were some batches with different Alkalinity numbers. I have also seen a few mixes that have failed ICP tests with several parameters being too low. Given those reasons, I would not recommend this mix for Acroporas.

    It is readily available at the local fish stores and online though, meaning you won’t have to worry about getting your normal salt mix in a pinch if you need to get it locally.

    Specs:

    • Alkalinity – 8.0 – 8.5 DKH
    • Calcium – 400-450 PPM
    • Magnesium – 1300-1400 PPM

    Pros

    • Quick mixing and no caking agents
    • Readily available online and locally
    • Tends to go on sale locally

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Bad quality control history

    Best For: LPS and Mixed Reef Tanks

    How To Chose A Mix

    This is where we start getting into details. What type of tank do you have and making sure you dose to what your salt mix is. There are even tanks where people do not dose, so a mix with evaluated parameters will make the most sense for those people. Nano reef tanks are good candidates for a salt mix with higher parameters since they sometimes are not dosed as they rely on water changes to get parameters back up.

    Pro Tip – Pick One Closest To Your Ideal Parameters

    This relates most to reef tank owners. Every tank has different needs depending on the type of corals you have. For example, SPS corals like Acropora are going to need different parameters and trace elements vs. say a softie tank. Softie and LPS tanks can tolerate more swings so going with a mix with a high alkalinity isn’t going to hurt you.

    However, for a Acropora heavy tank, many reefers like to keep their alkalinity lower in order to keep it more stable and closer to natural sea water. Then there is fish only and fish only with live rock (FOWLR) setups. Fish only saltwater aquariums are not going to need an expensive or advanced salt mix so a budget mix will do the job. Same can be said with a FOWLR tank.

    Synthetic Versus Mined Reef Salt Mixes

    Sea Salt Mines

    In the list I’m going to provide you will see that I label each marine salt for you as synthetic or mined. Mined reef salt mixes come from the mined evaporated natural seawater ocean deposits. Others will be pulled from the ocean like Red Sea Salt. There is also mainly synthetic made salt, which tends to be very popular in Europe. Salt mixes that are mostly or 100% synthetic represent some of the highest quality and most expensive reef salt mixes in the market.

    Aquarium Mix Parameters And Major Elements

    Let’s talk about the main parameters that make up a reef salt mix.

    • Calcium – This is the major foundation of the reefs. Through a process called biominealization, corals skeletons are created. Without calcium, hard corals cannot continue to build and maintain their skeletons.
    • Alkalinity – Alkalinity is related to pH but also gives us awareness of available bicarbonate in our tanks. Without a stable alkalinity level, our corals will not have the fuel to build their skeletons. Stable alkalinity will also prevent pH fluctuations. Calcium and Alkalinity closely relate to each other as dosing calcium will reduce alkalinity so keeping a balance is essential if you are having to dose elements. This is why two-part solutions are so common in reef aquariums.
    • Magnesium – Magnesium is the catalyst of the reef. They ensure alkalinity, calcium, and various reef foundation elements can interact with each other. It doesn’t need to be dosed as often, but if it is out of wack, the your corals tend to start suffering.

    There are many other trace elements I can discuss, but for most aquarists, these are the big 3 we concern ourselves with and test for in our reef tanks.

    FAQs

    Below is a list of common questions I get asked. Hopefully, these answer your questions.

    Which Should I Use?

    It actually depends on your reef tank setup and the corals you keep. A soft coral dominated tank will not have as many needs as a Heavy SPS tank. If you are just getting started out, you cannot go wrong with the Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt as this will work for most reef tanks including mixed reefs. But let’s go further into the question.

    Where Should I Purchase My Mix?

    It’s a known fact in our hobby that most retailers lose money selling salt, especially online retailers as the shipping cost is very high in comparison to other dry goods. This means there are two ideal places to purchase your salt mix. At your local fish store, where your fish store gets salt in pallets so they don’t lose money or on an online merchant like Amazon where you know you are not making the retailer lose money shipping the box or bucket of salt to you.ย 

    This is the main reason I stopped selling salt mixes online. It’s just not worth taking the losses to ship them.

    How Do I Mix It For My Tank?

    It’s actually easier than you think. The main thing since I’m going to assume that you are planning to do a reef tank or fish only with live rock setup is that you use RODI water made from an RODI System.

    You will want to use at least a Refractometer along with 35 PPM calibration fluid to ensure you have the right salinity. Keep in mind that the temperature of your water matters when measuring your salinity so try to make sure your temperature is close to the ideal temperature using an Aquarium Heater to bring the water inside your home if you need to cool it down.

    Once you have the RODI water at the correct temperature you will want to put in circulation from an Aquarium Wavemaker or Aquarium Return Pump. Then put in your salt according to the manufacturer’s instructions until you get to 35 PPM (or 1.026).

    You will want to wait at least 20-30 minutes every time you have to add salt in when testing your salinity. After you have the salt at the correct salinity, let it mix in the container. I usually let it mix overnight and test the salinity again because I do my water changes.

    Below is a video from Raising Reef with better visual introductions and with directions for those of you who like to use water changing stations or store water. This is one of the more detailed videos on the net that describes the process so give him a sub and like if you like the video.

    Conclusion

    I hope this article helps with figuring out what salt mix works best for you. I always recommend to my clients that they need to dose their tank to their salt mix. So follow the target parameters listed on the mixes and dose to those levels. You do not have to follow that guideline if you purchase a mix with an evaluated level of Alkalinity, but you will likely want to still regularly check your levels and make sure you do not drop below 8 DKH. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments. Thanks for reading.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • The Best Aquarium UV Sterilizer (2026 Reviews) โ€“ Find What Works And What Is Affordable

    The Best Aquarium UV Sterilizer (2026 Reviews) โ€“ Find What Works And What Is Affordable

    UV sterilizers are one of the most debated pieces of equipment in the hobby โ€” some swear by them, others say they’re unnecessary. I’ve run them on both freshwater and reef systems and my take is nuanced: they’re genuinely useful in specific situations, and a liability in others if sized wrong. After testing several units across different tank sizes, I have a clear picture of what works and what’s just marketing.

    The Aquarium UV Sterilizer is one of the most praised and most critiqued piece of equipment in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. It’s easy to see why because the quality of the aquarium UV sterilizers differ greatly and many people do not know the difference. It’s easy to just purchase a cheap UV sterilizer and expect it to work wonders for disease and algae management. I was a little hesitant to write this article at first , but there is a lot of misinformation out there with these products so I feel it’s best to write a comprehensive article educating people on how they work so you have reasonable expectations of what you will get out of them to improve the water quality.

    The best aquarium UV sterilizers are expensive, but have the ability to mitigate pathogens in the aquarium water. The cheap UV sterilizers will often only be best for water clarification. With that being said, let’s talk about what exactly is a UV Sterilizer.

    In A Hurry? The best uv sterilizer is the TMC Vecton!

    What is a UV Sterilizer For A Fish Tank?

    What Is A UV Sterilizer

    A UV sterilizer is a filtration unit that uses a germicidal florescent lamp that uses a particular wavelength (254 nm). Water is delivered to the UV sterilizer via a pump where the water passes through a quartz chamber. As the water passes through this chamber, the UV light damages algae, parasites, and bacteria’s DNA preventing them from growing and reproducing.

    UV sterilizers have been a topic of discussion regarding the fight on superbugs. Superbugs are evolved (or mutated depending on how you want to label them) pathogens which are drug resistant. UV light has showed to attack parasite resistance as it destroys the DNA. If you own a marine aquarium, you may be familiar with drug resistant ich and marine velvet coming through aquarium trade supply chain. This is a must watch below: 

    Aquarium UV Sterilizer Dwell Time And Why It’s So Important

    The time spent in the quartz chamber of UV sterilizers is known as dwell time. This dwell time is something you are going to write down as you research units as this is the most important factor when deciding what the best UV light is for your budget.

    UV Sterilizer in theory, are all designed the same way with a sleeve and UV bulb, but certain units have larger dwell time due to the width and length of the quartz chamber. The longer and wider the chamber, the higher the dwell time. You can also increase the dwell time by lowering the flow to the unit, but if the unit is too short and not wide enough you will hit a limit to the sterilization you can achieve.

    The longer dwell time you have, the longer the water is exposed to the UV sterilizer light. This in turn means there is a higher likelihood that all pathogens/organisms passing through the UV light will be affected. So how do we rate dwell time? The best way to rate this is to categorize the level of sterilization and what this means when choosing an aquarium filter.

    Not All Are Created Equal

    Knowing the sterilization levels an aquarium UV sterilizer can achieve is what you need to know as a consumer in order to purchase the best UV light for your fish tank or pond. We can break down UV sterilization into 3 uses.

    1. Green Water Clarification (Clarification)
    2. Bacterial, Flagellates, and Light Parasite Sterilization (Sterilization) 
    3. Heavy Parasite Sterilization  (Heavy Sterilization)

    The best aquarium UV sterilizers on the market can do the 3rd category. The middle grade models can do the 1st and second. Budget unit uv sterilizers can only do the first.

    UV Clarification – The Most Common on the Market

    The first category of UV Sterilization is the main reason why UV lights can get such a bad rap in the industry amongst aquarium owners. The vast majority of UV sterilizers available for sale will only be capable of clarification. In freshwater tanks and ponds, this is still a very good unit as it will eliminate the free floating green algae (green water), but don’t expect it to do anything for bacterial and parasite mitigation or redox balance.

    These sterilizers are usually hang-on or internal which makes them easy to install. These UV sterilizers offer little dwell time and comprise of many cheaper sterilizers on the market.

    Sterilization – Mid-Level Units 

    We start getting into more serious UV sterilizers at level 1 sterilization . These UV lights are capable of actual sterilization with their higher dwell time. These units are most suited for common fish tank and pond usage. They have enough dwell time to not only clarify water, but can destroy harmful viruses and bacteria in your aquarium water. Level 1 UV sterilizers are particularly useful in marine aquariums at helping to eliminating dinoflagellates

    Heavy Sterilization – The Premier Choice

    This category represents the uv sterilizers with the best dwell time. They are the best of the best in the industry and common to what you will see in public aquariums. That is not to say that this is not available to the common hobbyist, it’s just that sterilizers of this level are very expensive in comparison to others that do not have the dwell to be in this category.

    These UV sterilizers are fully capable of water clarification, disease mitigation, redox balance, algae containment, and suitable for increasing the disease resistance of your fish population.

    What Is Redox And How Does It Relate?

    I mentioned redox in the discussion about aquarium sterilizer categories, but did not define it. Redox refers to ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential). This relates to the degree of water purity in your aquarium. An effective UV sterilizer will increase your redox potential. If you want the full explanation. You can view the full explanation from Reef Sanctuary.

    A Quick Comparison for the Money

    Now that I have explained how UV sterilizers work and what the levels of sterilization are, let’s discuss the best UV Sterilizers for fish tanks and ponds.

    Below is the comprehensive list of aquarium UV sterilizers with their category of sterilization listed.

    PictureNameTypeLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    TMC Vecton UV Sterilizer
    TMC Vecton UV Sterilizer
    • Heavy Sterilization
    Check For Best Price
    Best Value
    Aqua UV Advantage
    Aqua UV Advantage
    • Sterilization
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Green Killing Machine
    Green Killing Machine
    • Clarification
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Aqua UV Classic UV Sterilizer Aqua UV Classic UV Sterilizer
    • Heavy Sterilization
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Bloom Clean Sterilizer Bloom Clean Sterilizer
    • Clarification
    Buy On Amazon
    Coralife Turbo Twist Coralife Turbo Twist
    • Sterilization
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Innovative Marine AUQA Shield Innovative Marine AUQA Shield
    • Sterilization
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Lifegard Aquatics UV Sterilizers Lifegard Aquatics UV Sterilizers
    • Sterilization
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Jabeo UV Sterilizer Jabeo UV Sterilizer
    • Sterilization
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon

    The Top 9 (2023 Reviews)

    Let us go in depth and see why each UV sterilizer made the list!

    1. TMC Vecton

    The TMC Vecton is without a doubt the best UV sterilizer on the market. At first, you may think what is this brand and what makes the unit so great. TMC stands for Tropic Marine Centre, which is based out in the United Kingdom. TMC has been leading the UK in fish trade since the 1970s and specializes in high end aquarium equipment with reef tanks being their main focus. The are the leading supplier in the UK for livestock and design their own equipment, with their equipment being used in commercial facilities all over Europe. You can learn more about them in the video below. I wish we had more suppliers like this in the US:

    So now that you know what TMC is let’s talk about why this unit is the best available.The main thing that makes TMC Vectons so great is their dwell time. They have the longest dwell time available in aquarium UV sterilizers because their chamber is very wide. The UV bulb is also unique from other makers in that they use a wider T8 UV bulb versus a the standard T5 used in most UV sterilizers. This wide UV bulb is more effective at sterilizing than other units in the market. 

    The next thing to love is how the UV light is assembled. It comes with its own docking bay so you can easily mount to your aquarium stand or wall. This docking bay allows you to pop up the bay and perform maintenance on the unit and keeps the electronics safe and secure. The UV sterilizer also comes with a swivel arm that can be placed at the top or below of the unit for ease of install and adapt to piping. 

    The main downfall with this sterilizer is its availability. Because it’s made in the UK, it’s difficult to find their small units available unless you purchase a transformer. The 25 watt unit is the main UV sterilizer you want to look for and will handle small and large tanks.

    The UV light and its dwell time will outperform larger wattage units. This UV light will be the equivalent of 40 watts for many other UVs out there. The UV bulbs will also need to be special ordered, but given the performance this unit provides and the fact that it is a bargain over the more expensive Aqua UV classic makes these worth it.

    Pros

    • The best heavy sterilization available to the hobbyist
    • T8 over T5 provides the highest dwell time available
    • Docking bay is an excellent feature that makes this unit easier to install

    Cons

    • Hard to find and order
    • Only 25 watts

    2. Aqua Advantage – Hang On The Back for Small Tanks

    The Aqua UV Advantage series is a hang on the back UV sterilizer specifically made for small and sumpless tanks. Aqua UV makes some of the best UV sterilizers in the market and they haven’t skipped on their well known quality in this unit. This UV sterilizer has the same quality build and larger dwell chamber.

    It is a bit small to qualify as a sterilizer capable of level 2 sterilization for your tank water, but it is a strong first category sterilizer and there are honestly very few high end sterilizers available at this size. If you have a sumpless fish tank, this is a great UV sterilizer to look into.

    Pros

    • Compact size
    • Works with sumpless tanks
    • Quality sterilization

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Smaller dwell time than the classic models

    Best For: A sumpless fish tank

    3. Green Killing Machine – Simple To Use Green Water Clarifier

    Budget Option
    Green Killing Machine

    Budget Option

    A great way to get clarification level UV sterilization for a great price. Very effective against green water

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    For those of you looking for an easy to use UV light out of the box, the Green Killing Machine is a great unit to get. It works internally with a pump included. The Green Killing Machine is small enough to fit in a small sump or inside your fish tank where you plants or rock can hide it.

    This unit is not very powerful though. You will need to purchase this knowing it is only UV capable of clarification, but it does a great job of clearing up green water out of the aquarium. Just see the differences below of what this little UV light can do.

    Before:

     After 6 days: 

    If you have a green water problem, the Green Killing Machine is the perfect aquarium UV sterilizer for you. It is cheap and easy to use. The Green Killing Machine is very effective at what it is marketed for, which is removing green water.

    Pros

    • Cheap ready to run unit
    • Can be run internally in the display tank

    Cons

    • Only capable of clarification in your tank water
    • May be too large to work in all in one aquarium chambers

    Best For: A fish tank having green water problems

    4. Aqua Classic – Made in The USA

    Made In The USA
    Aqua UV Classic

    This is the best available aquarium uv sterilizer on the market that is made in the US. Designed to work in sump systems

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    The Aqua UV Classic is the gold standard in aquarium UV sterilizers in the market, especially in the US. This is an American Made UV Sterilizer that has a great dwell time capable of heavy sterilization. One of the models can be very large like the 40 watt UV sterilizer model that is a 44 inch unit! The length of these units is to increase the dwell time of the UV light as much as possible.

    These units are meant to be run in an aquarium sump or separate area for pond usage. If you are looking for a top quality American Made UV-C light, look no further than an Aqua UV Sterilizer. They are expensive, but worth the investment for what they can do to your tank water. Just get the non wiper variants if you are purchasing this UV sterilizer for a reef tank.

    Pros

    • American Made UV sterilizer
    • Capable of heavy sterilization
    • Many sizes so they can handle very large aquariums and ponds

    Cons

    • Expense
    • Large – they are best in sump and basement/fishroom setups

    Best For: A large fish tank with sumps or canister filters. Ideal for ponds

    5. Bloom Clean – Cheap Clarifier For Small Tanks

    Bloom Clean Sterilizer

    A budget option priced option that is compact. Works against green water and small enough to fit in power filters

    Buy On Amazon

    The Bloom Clean UV Sterilizer is one of the cheapest sterilizers on the market. They are perfect for those with small tanks and just want something that gets rid of green water. It has no fancy sleeve or chamber like others. Make sure to keep the uv light in a hidden area. It is very bare bones, which is why they are so cheap.

    You will want to use them in an all in one aquarium chamber or in a larger power filter away from the main display tank. As a clarifier and the price, it is a great UV light for a budget fish tank keeper and a cheap solution for those who want to get rid of green water.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Compact and will fit in power filters and all in one chambers

    Cons

    • Only a clarifier
    • Bare bones – no sleeve to block UV light to rest of tank

    Best For: A small fish tank with power filters or all in one aquariums

    6. Coralife Turbo Twist

    Coralife Turbo Twist

    A readily available UV sterilizer in pet stores and local fish stores.

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is probably going to be the most widely available UV sterilizer on this list. The main feature with the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is that it has a twist chamber which really cuts down on the size making this a compact unit even for it’s larger models. It still needs to be used with a Canister Filter or a Sump, but you can work with smaller spaces with it.

    Given it’s twist chamber, it has the added dwell time that makes it a first category sterilizer, which will satisfy most requirements for fish tank and pond keepers. Overall, the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is a good all around unit that is easy to find in stores and easy to get UV bulbs and replacement parts.

    Pros

    • Widely available UV Sterilizer
    • Compact Size for its dwell time

    Cons

    • Can be used in an all in one tank 
    • Pricey for a first category UV light sterilizer

    Best For: Aquariums with sumps or canister filters 

    7. Innovative Marine Auqa Shield – The Choice for All-In-One Tanks

    Works Great In All In One Tanks!
    Innovative Marine AUQA Shield

    A high quality UV sterilizer that will fit in all in one tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Finding a quality UV sterilizer for aquarium can be frustrating for those with all in on tanks because of the size of the chambers. Innovative Marine has addressed this issue with their very own AUQA Shield UV Sterilizer. This high quality UV light is made to work in your first chamber with a sponge prefilter so you can still have space your other equipment like media reactors and protein skimmers or additional biological media. 

    Innovative marine makes this a very easy to use unit as the aquarium uv sterilizer bulbs work in cartridges that you just pull out and dispose off when they are ready to be replaced. this makes maintenance and install very easy and one of the easiest and carefree units to operate on the list. Innovative also makes a universal model  that hang right into an aquarium sump for those of you with small sumps that want a plug and play unit. These uv sterilizer units are capable of the first category of sterilization so you will be getting a standard sterilization, which should suit most aquarists needs.

    Pros

    • Compact and works in all in one aquariums
    • Disposable cartridges make this easy to maintain
    • Comes with a prefilter

    Cons

    • Larger models not available for big tanks
    • A bit on the pricey side
    • Low wattage UV light

    Best For: All in one aquariums

    8. Lifegard Prostep – A Good Choice for Canister Filters

    Lifegard Aquatics AquaStep UV

    A UV sterilizer that works great for canister filter setups. Step system increases dwell time

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    The Lifegard Prostep UV Sterilizer is an inline sterilizer that is made to either hang on your tank or stand inside your stand. Given the way this UV light is built and how it works, the Lifegard Prostep UV Sterilizer works best for canister filter setups as it can sit right next to your canister filter in your stand. This is an easier and trouble free setup than say your Aqua UV classic, which does not come with any mounting equipment and you have to worry about fitting a giant UV sterilizer unit in your stand and buying mounts for it.

    Aqua Step UV Flow

    This unit has pushes water through the UV sterilizer in a step pattern to maximize the dwell time in the chamber. This puts this unit at the higher end of the first category sterilizers but at a much cheaper price than the Aqua UV classic. While it is not at the performance level of a UV Classic, it is close enough where if one is considering a higher end UV light, this will be seen as a bargain unit. You can also hang this on the back of your fish tank or sump, which give this extra versatility.

    Pros

    • Works great under the cabinet with its standalone design
    • Step design gives good dwell time

    Cons

    • More advanced install then cheaper units
    • Hang on is still pretty large even for the 15 watt UV sterilizer models

    Best For: Canister filter powered aquariums

    9. Jabeo – The Choice for Dinoflagellates

    Jabeo UV Sterilizer

    A budget price and high performing UV Sterilizer. Knowing for eliminating Dinoflagellates in reef tanks

    Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

    The Jabeo UV Sterilizer in my experience usually comes into play when I have someone I know dealing with a dinoflagellates outbreak. You need at least a level 1 aquarium UV sterilizer to kill dinos and the Jabeo is a cheap and effective unit to use to handle them. They are big units with a good amount of dwell time. For the price and size, they are good units to consider and also work very well in ponds clearing up green water and providing clarity in the water.

    What I don’t like with this unit is the ballast is bulky and will not detach from the sleeve assembly. This makes it a bit of a pain fitting it into a cabinet because you have to provide a hole big enough to fit the ballast in. The UV lamp bulbs are easy to find online and you know that it is a solid first category sterilizer. It is a good all around unit and one of the better Jabeo units on the market next to their DCP aquarium return pumps and SOW wavemakers.

    Pros

    • Cheap for the performance you get
    • Inlet and out adjust up and down for easy adjustments
    • Readily available UV light bulbs

    Cons

    • Made to be made inside a cabinet
    • Ballast is large and annoying to work with

    Best For: Tanks dealing with dino outbreaks and larger tank owners who want some parasite control.

    Our Recommendations

    Like I usually do, I’m going to provide a list as it will depend on your aquarium and needs. Here is what I would recommend.

    Best UV Sterilizer for Nano and All In One TanksInnovative Marine AUQA

    Best UV for ClarificationGreen Killing Machine

    Best Value – Aqua UV Advantage 

    Best UV Overall SterilizerTMC Vecton

    FAQs

    Aquarium UV sterilizers fall in the more advanced category of fish keeping equipment so these FAQs should hopefully help out.

    How Do I Install One In My Tank?

    It will depend on the make and model you purchase, but I’m going to supply the video of one of the best out there from TMC to show you know the installs work. Many of these units are designed to be ready to run with some tubing required on your end to purchase or a pump or outlet source to be provided.
    ย 

    How Often Do I Change the Bulbs?

    You should change your UV lamp bulb every 6-12 months. You can stretch it to 12 months if you want, but the effectiveness of the UV bulb decreases as it ages so you do not want to go too long not replacing them. If you replace your UV light bulb every 6 months, you can ensure that you have the optimum performance running 24-7.

    Can They Really Eliminate Ich?

    Freshwater (Ichthyophthirius) and Saltwater (Cryptocaryon) ich is always a big topic in disease when it comes to our hobby. Some people will tell you that a UV sterilizer can eliminate ich, but that is not the case. A UV sterilizer will not completely eliminate ich, but it will be a very useful tool in disease management, particularly hobbyist who are not willing to quarantine fish.ย ย If you are buying the healthiest stock you can get, there is still a decent chance (much higher chance with marine fish) that there will be ich present living in your fish tank. UV sterilizers will eliminate the free floating ich stage in your aquarium, but it will only eliminate the free floating parasites that manage to make it into the sterilization chamber. You will have less parasites with a level 1 or level 2 aquarium UV sterilizer, which will increase fish immunity.

    How Many Gallons Per Hour (Flow) Does It Need?

    Here is a real simple chart to sort out what gallons per hour you need to run through your UV sterilizer in order to achieve the proper sterilization stages:

    Clarification
    40-50 GPH per watt for most
    50-60 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton
    Sterilization
    20-30 GPH per watt for most
    30-35 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton
    Heavy Sterilization
    10-12 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton

    Conclusion

    I hope this article helps dispel a number of myths about aquarium UV sterilizers. Judging performance on UV sterilizers is all about knowing dwell time and separating the various players in the market by how much dwell time they offer. Once you know that, you can choose the UV sterilizer for your aquarium based on your needs and budget. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Thanks for reading.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Best Aquarium Power Filters โ€“ Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    Best Aquarium Power Filters โ€“ Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    I’ve run hang-on-back power filters on more tanks than I can count โ€” from small 10-gallon betta setups to my 65-gallon community tank. They’re still my go-to recommendation for most freshwater hobbyists because they’re reliable, easy to maintain, and genuinely effective when matched to the right tank size. After 25 years I know which brands hold up and which ones fail at the impeller after six months. Here’s what I actually use and recommend.

    Power filters โ€” hang-on-back filters โ€” are still the most widely used filtration option in the hobby, and for good reason: they’re affordable, easy to maintain, and effective in tanks up to about 75 gallons. I’ve run HOB filters on freshwater community tanks, betta setups, and quarantine tanks over my 25 years in the hobby, and I have clear opinions on which brands consistently perform and which ones fail within a year. This guide covers the best power filters I’ve actually used and what makes them worth the investment.

    What Is A Power Filter In An Aquarium?

    A power filter is a filtration (video source) unit that hangs on the back of your aquarium. It suctions water out of your display tank into the filter chamber. It pulls water out of your aquarium with a pump where it enters the filter box. Most power filters will comprise of 3 stages of filtration: mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration.

    Each stage works together to complete the nitrogen cycle and keep your aquarium healthy. Some filters have separated filtration stages while others operate like a big filter box similar to a canister filter.

    The Nitrogen Cycle

    Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

    Since we are talking about the nitrogen cycle, let’s explain what is it using this graphic from Fluval Aquatics (above) and video below from AGamer’s Wife. I like her video because she breaks down the cycle without all the scientific technical explanation and talks about how plants can be used as part of the nitrogen cycle. I’ll cover planted tanks in a later post, but this should be plenty to explain and get you started:

    HOB (Hang On Back) Filters vs. Canister Filters

    There is a big debate on HOB vs. Canister Filters and what works best for an aquarium. Since this blog post is focused on basic filtration and setups, a HOB Filter (or power filter) is going to be cheaper, easier to use, and easier to maintain then a canister filter. If you are a first time aquarium keeper and want simplicity a hang on back power filter is going to be the way to go — they are also a lot cheaper than canister filters!

    A Canister filter is a larger filtration unit. It holds a much larger capacity for filter media and biological filtration than a power filter can, their flow rate can be a lot more , and they are rated for larger tanks. A canister filter is able to hide easier in your aquarium and can equip inline heaters.

    They are more complex, but you get the added value of keeping things hidden in your cabinet with a canister filter and being able to run more advanced filtration/systems such as inline heaters, and stand alone uv sterilizers. Canister filters are also much quieter than power filters. Noise as you will see with the reviews done on this post, is the main Achilles heal of power filters. 

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

    Now that you know why it’s important to have a filtration unit that covers the nitrogen cycle, let’s take about the best power filters out in the market today. All the power filters I’m going to cover here are quality filters and will meet all budgets.

    In a hurry? I recommend the Hagen AquaClear!

    PictureNameSizesLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Hagen AquaClear
    Hagen AquaClear
    • Up to 110 Gallons
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    SeaChem Tidal Filter
    SeaChem Tidal Filter
    • Up to 110 Gallons
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Penn-Plax Cascade
    Penn-Plax Cascade
    • Up to 100 Gallons
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    MarineLand Penguin Bio-Wheel MarineLand Penguin Bio-Wheel
    • Up to 80 Gallons
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Fluval C Power Filter Fluval C Power Filter
    • Up to 70 Gallons
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Aqueon QuietFlow Aqueon QuietFlow
    • Up to 90 Gallons
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    MarineLand Emperor Bio-Wheel MarineLand Emperor Bio-Wheel
    • Up to 80 Gallons
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Aquatop PF Series with UV Aquatop PF Series with UV
    • Up To 40 Gallons
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon

    The Top 8 Reviews (2023 Update)

    Let’s find out why these 8 power filters made our list!

    1. Hagen AquaClear – An Oldie But Goodie

    Editor’s Choice
    Hagen AquaClear

    The Best Aquarium Power Filter

    The worlds best selling and most reliable power filter on the market. Unchanged for years because it’s so reliable and versatile

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Hagen AquaClear has been around for ages. It’s literally the Honda Accord of power filters. It is extremely reliable and has been relevantly unchanged since the 80s. It is the best selling hang on back filter in the world for a reason.

    The Aquaclear has been around for many years with many field test testimonials. It has a stellar reputation not only in the freshwater hobby, but in turtle tanks, and in saltwater tanks. It’s just about the only power filter I recommend for saltwater tanks because it is so versatile filter and reliable. 

    It’s versatility comes from the fact that the filter is just a big container of filter media. You can pick and chose what chemical media you want or upgrade the biological media. Want to upgrade to better carbon? Just grab a bag and purchase some high end carbon. Want to use better biological media like BioHome, easily done.

    There are also various 3rd party mods available, like inTank, which makes mods that convert the filter into an all in one unit. I had also seen people make algae scrubbers and hang on refugiums with them. 

    Another factor that makes this power filter great is that it runs off foam for mechanical filtration. The foam is reusable, so you do not have to worry about replacing it. This removes the ongoing cost of running the aquarium. Your chemical media is the only piece that you need to replace with an Aquaclear!

    It’s easy to see what makes the Aquaclear so great. It looks outdated with it’s clear tubing and retro style filter box, but it has stood the test of time and truly earns its title of best selling power filter of all time! 

    Pros

    • Extremely versatile chambers – which many 3rd party mods available
    • Field tested over the years with great reliability
    • Reusable filter media – only the carbon is disposable!

    Cons

    • Clear intake and outdated looking style
    • Not quiet

    2. Seachem Tidal – An Vastly Improved AquaClear Clone

    Best Value
    SeaChem Tidal

    Best Value

    Everything that makes the Aquaclear great plus more. Features a maintenance alert for ease of care

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Seachem Tidal Filter is a new player in the crowded power filter market. However, this one really stands out. The Tidal is a premium power filter that improves on everything that makes the Hagen AquaClear so great. It starts with the design itself being made by Sicce. Sicce, for those of you who haven’t seen our other posts, is an Italian Company that builds premium equipment that is built to last. I’m a huge fan of all the products they make.

    This Tidal filter literally took everything that makes the AquaClear great and improved everything. The filter comes with a heater holder for you to place your heater next to the filter making sure the heated water is circulated to the aquarium. The filter has an intake and a surface skimmer, doubling the filtration efficiency way above the others listed on this list.

    The filter uses a removable filter bracket that holds all the filter media. Seachem really makes maintenance easy for you as you can simply lift out the bracket for easy cleaning with no mess. The bracket incorporates a open media design allow you to put anything you want in there. It’s literally a hang on canister filter with their design.

    The standard out of box filtration components are actually pretty good here. Seachem gives you standard foam (which is reusable), Seachem Matrix Carbon, and Seachem Matrix Bio Media. The carbon is a premium level carbon and the matrix is a great starter biological media.

    I’m not even through with the offering of this power filter package. This filter has adjustable flow right on the front of the filter that is easy to access. There is also a maintenance alert feature that raises up to tell you when you need to replace media. That finish this all off with a self-priming Sicce built pump that is a workhorse and Sicce quiet (which means dead quiet). Even the power consumption on this feature is incredible. The largest 110 model only consumes 12 watts. That is low enough to add this to a UPS and literally never worry about power outages again! Oh yeah, it has an extendable 5 year warranty.

    So what is there not to like here? Well, it is one of the most expensive power filters on this list and some of the features I talked about like the heater holder are not available on the smallest model.

    Pros

    • Made by Sicce
    • Flexible media design
    • Premium features

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Not all features are available on smallest model

    3. Penn Plax Cascade – A Value Priced 4 Stage Unit

    Penn Plax Cascade Hang On Filter

    An afforable 4 stage hang on filteration unit by Penn Plax. Available in many sizes from nano to large tanks

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    The Penn Plax Casade filter offers an affordable power filter for those with smaller tanks. They have models that can work for tanks as small as 7 gallons making them ideal for pico sized aquariums. The filter is pretty comprehensive for a budget power filter offering a 4 stage filtration system. There is a mechanical and chemial stage that comes form the filter bag and a foam biological section. There is a plastic 4 stage biological filtration chamber that operates somewhat like bio balls. The filter has an adjustable nozzle to control the flow and has a telescoping intake so you can adjust to the desired height. 

    It isn’t as commonly available as say the Marineland and Hagen filters, but it is cheaper than both. You will still need to purchase the filter bags so there is monthly replacement costs associated with them (the bags are also more expensive then the penguins).

    Overall, this is a pretty solid filter, especially if you have a smaller tank. 

    Pros

    • Features for the price
    • Small models available for pico sized aquariums
    • 4 Stage filtration

    Cons

    • Harder to find parts
    • You can’t pick your own media with filter cartridges

    4. Penguin Biowheel – Wet/Dry Filtration At An Affordable Price!

    Marineland Biowheel

    Wet/Dry filtration at an afforable price. Superior biological filteration from a quality name brand

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Marineland Penguin Biowheel is a power filter that offers wet/dry biological filtration. This provides superior biological filtration out of the box over other competitor power filters. In freshwater aquariums, the wheel actually changes color as it matures.  The price for this filter is very reasonable for what it offers and the replacement cartridges are very east to find and cheap making your ongoing costs very low. They come in a variety of sizes so you can use this with both small and larger tanks.

    The main downfall with this power filter is there isn’t space for adding option chemical media. You have to use the rite-size cart which limits you with only being able to use the carbon that comes with the cartridges. The biowheel can also get stuck over time, which can hinder the performance of the biological filtration as time goes on. This adds some additional maintenance.

    Pros

    • Wet/Dry Filtration
    • Replacement cartridges and very reasonably priced
    • Great price for features

    Cons

    • Not as flexible with putting other filter media with lack of space
    • Biowheel can get stuck and make noise over time

    5. Fluval C Series – A High End Product  

    Fluval C Power Filter

    A 3 stage power filter that features wet/dry biological filteration

    Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

    Fluval’s Power C filter series is a high end power filter with quality at all three stages. The first stage is a dual stage mechanical filtration chamber. the first stage is a more coarse foam that is reusable and the the second stage is a finer poly layer that is disposable. The second stage is a chemical media chamber. Well it is limited in space, it is a quality stage even when working with Fluval’s stock carbon. 

    The third stage is what I really like. It has a wet/dry section for biological media. This brings me back to the old Second Nature WD power filters. For use old timers, the WD was considered one of the finest power filters in its heyday as it had it’s own separate wet dry chamber. I’m so happy to see that Fluval is implementing this lost style of filtration on this power filter. Adding in a cleaning indictator, which tells you when you need to clean out your mechanical stages this is a very comprehensive package.

    It is on the more expensive side for a power filter, but if you can budget up it is a solid consideration. If it is out of your budget, strongly consider Fluval’s parent company, Hagen, and their Aquaclear offering — which I reviewed earlier. 

    Pros

    • Dual stage mechanical filtration
    • Cleaning indicator
    • Wet/Dry biological chamber

    Cons

    • More expensive than other options
    • Fine stage mechanical filter will get used up quickly

    6. Aqueon Quietflow – 5 Stage Unit That’s Great For First Timers

    Aqueon QuietFlow

    A 5 stage aquarium power filter that is user friendly for beginners. Backed by a 3 year warranty

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Aqueon quietflow power filter is a very common power filter that you will see at fish stores these days. They come with a lot of kits, and I’m actually happier to see these around more than the Whisper Power Filters I used to see (I don’t recommend Whispers – more on that later).

    The Aqueon filter provides a 5 stage filtration system with the plastic grids on the filter acting as the biological media. While I find that unusual, it works and it keeps separate from the filter bag. The filter bad has mechanical and chemical filtration in one and is fairly reasonable to replace. Because Aqueon is a big name brand around fish stores, it is really easy to find replacement parts and replacement cartridges. Aqueon also supplies you with a 3 year warranty – a testament to Aqueon’s quality engineering over the years.

    You will see a recurring theme here for power filters in that they are loud. The Aqueon is no exception. In my personal experience, it tends to be on the louder side and they tend to be on the low gallons per hour side. It’s a quality filter and great for first timers, especially with the LED that tells you when to replace the cartridge.

    Pros

    • 3 year warranty
    • LED tells you when it’s time to replace filter cartridge 
    • Easy to find replacement parts

    Cons

    • Loud
    • Low gallons per hour

    7. Marineland Emperor Biowheel

    Marineland Emperor Biowheel

    A high end version of Marineland’s biowheel. Features great chemical media capacity and larger biowheels

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Marineland Emperor Biowheel is an upgrade version of the Penguin Biowheel that has a number of improved features. The biggest difference is that the emperor filters have a chamber for you to place optional media. It still is limited so you can’t use bulker media, but it does address the main issue of the Penguin models. The Emperors use a larger biowheel, which means you have even more biological filtration available and a slightly better built wheel an axel. Emperors also have a higher flow rate than the pegiun biowheels.

    You get these upgrades for an increase price putting this in the premium category of power filters. There is a smaller Emperor 280 model available, but it still is too large for smaller tanks like 20 gallon tanks. Overall, this is a pretty comprehensive power filter.

    Pros

    • Wet/Dry Filtration
    • Can add optional filter media

    Cons

    • More expensive than penguin biowheel
    • Too large for smaller aquariums

    8. Aquatop PF Series – With A UV Sterilizer

    Aquatop PF Series

    An aquarium power filter that comes equipment with a uv sterilizer. Well priced for what it offers

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Aquatop has been getting more popular at the local fish stores and I’m not really sure how I feel about it. The PF Power Filter has a number of good features like a surface skimmer and their included UV Sterilizer. The UV is not powerful, but will work very well to keep your water from turning green. When you consider that it comes with a sterilizer, the price isn’t that bad as a total package.

    However, I’m not a fan of the filter media cartridge. It’s an all in one cartridge, which means you are removing some quality biological media when you replace it. The UV is not a high end parasite killing sterilizer. Except the lowest end of sterilization, which is clarification (your water will look amazing though). If you are worried about green water problems and can’t afford or work with a stand alone UV sterilizer, this would be a power filter to consider.

    Pros

    • Surface skimmer
    • UV is a good clarifier

    Cons

    • Harder to find filter media cartridges
    • Low quality UV
    • Replacing the cartridge = removing biological filtration

    Our Recommendation

    There are a lot of power filters out on the market and a number of these are quality built. However, two power filters here really stand out as the best aquarium power filter on this list. 

    These two filters would be the Hagen Aquaclear and the Seachem Tidal. The Aquaclear is a very versatile and reliable power filter that has stood the test of time and it’s large capacity lets you put whatever you want in it. You only have to worry about replacing chemical media with it. The Seachem Tidal is essentially an upgraded Aquaclear. It has amazing premium features and the out of the box media is great. I would recommend the Aquaclear if your budget is smaller and the Tidal if you can spend a little more for the extra features.

    Maintenance

    Cleaning a power filter is really easy to do. This is what makes them more attractive than Canister filters (aside from price). If your filter has a filter bag, you simply need to remove it and replace with a new one. If the filter bag has a carbon section in it, you will want to wash it off before putting it into the filter. For sponges, you simply need to take your aquarium water and wash it in the water.

    Here is a good video from Chewy’s Bro Aquatics showing how to clean an Aquaclear filter:

    Other things you will want to clean out routinely will be the pipes and the impeller motor. You will want a bottle brush/pipe cleaner to clean pipes. These can be used to clean the inside of the impeller chamber of the pump as well.

    Carbon media will need to replaced at least once per month. Biological media you should never need to replace.

    Closing Thoughts

    This was a nice throwback to me to go back to power filters and move into the freshwater side of things. I hope this guide helps you make an informed decision when purchasing a power filter for your aquarium. All these filters are quality filters. Chose the one that fits with your budget and aquarium needs. Thanks for reading :). 


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • The 10 Best Aquarium Wavemakers Of 2026 โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    The 10 Best Aquarium Wavemakers Of 2026 โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    Flow is one of the most underrated factors in reef keeping, and wavemakers are where I see beginners and experienced hobbyists alike make expensive mistakes. I’ve run powerheads and wavemakers in my 125-gallon reef across several brands, and the difference in coral polyp extension and detritus suspension is very real. Getting the right flow pattern matters as much as the GPH rating. Here’s what I’ve found works best.

    Are you struggling with finding a quality aquarium wavemaker?

    In this blog, we share the best wavemaker offerings, from no wire in tank products to gyres. Even some that can run off your phone!

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their water flow woes. I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best aquarium wavemaker on the market.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice!
    Eco Tech MP
    • DC
    • No Wires In Tank
    • App Powered
    Best Value
    IceCap Gyre
    • Sold brand
    • Reasonable price for a gyre
    • DC Powered
    Budget Option
    Jebeo SOW
    • Cheap
    • Powerful

    I have listed a lot of wave maker choices that fit multiple budgets and needs, but you may be wondering what we suggest. Since everyone needs are different, we have the following recommendations based on the criteria below:

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

    All these wave makers meet several of the factors I was desiring (more on that further in the article), but not all (as a wave maker that does meet these all would be expensive!). I’ll go through each aquarium wave maker listed below and provide you with the in-depth details below.

    PictureNamePower TypeLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Ecotech MP Series Wavemakers
    Ecotech MP Series Wavemakers

    DC

    Click For Best Price
    Best Value
    IceCap Gyre Series
    IceCap Gyre Series

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Jabeo SOW Series Wavemakers
    Jabeo SOW Series Wavemakers

    DC

    Buy On Amazon
    Current USA EFlux Wavemakers Current USA EFlux Wavemakers

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Hydor Koralia Wavemakers Hydor Koralia Wavemakers

    AC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Fluval Sea CP Series Wavemakers Fluval Sea CP Series Wavemakers

    AC

    Buy On Amazon
    Maxspect Gyre XF Series Maxspect Gyre XF Series

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Sicce Voyager Wavemakers Sicce Voyager Wavemakers

    AC

    Click For Best Price
    Sun Sun JVP Series Wavemakers Sun Sun JVP Series Wavemakers

    AC

    Buy On Amazon
    Tunze Nanostream Tunze Nanostream

    AC

    Click For Best priceBuy On Amazon

    The 10 Best Aquarium Wavemaker Reviews (2023 Update)

    Let’s go into full depth about why these wave makers made the list!

    1. EcoTech MP – The Choice For Professional Installers

    Editor’s Choice!
    Ecotech Vortech

    The Best Aquarium Wavemaker

    The professional’s choice for wavemakers. Keeps wires out of your display tank and loaded with features

    Click For Best Price

    If you are looking to do a professional looking aquarium setup whether fresh or saltwater, the EcoTech MP Series Wavemakers are the wave makers to look for. EcoTech’s patented mag drive technology supplies power to the wave maker outside of the aquarium. This means that this is the ONLY wave maker on the market that has the wire outside of the fish tank. This is an amazing feature for someone looking to have an extremely clean and professional looking aquarium with no wires in the aquarium.

    EcoTech Ppwer Wire

    It’s not just the wire, but the features of the MP Wave maker that makes this a great buy. The wave maker is loaded with various wave making settings and pairs easily with a controller or independently off EcoTech’s new Mobius system. EcoTech also sells their own power outage supply solution that will power the MP Series for several days in the event of a power outage. That’s one comprehensive package!

    You can have all this for one hefty price. Next to the MaxSpect Gyre, this is one of the most expensive wave makers on the list. EcoTech also snubs you with a 1 year warranty. Really something this expensive should have a 2 to 3 year warranty.

    Given its unique features however, it not hard to see what many professional installers and custom aquarium makers turn to this when it comes to making a showstopping fish tank.

    Pros

    • Wire is outside of the aquarium – ideal for professional level setups
    • Lots of control with Reef Link or Aquarium Controller
    • Has it’s own power outage solution available

    Cons

    • Very expensive!
    • Only a 1 year warranty

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums and high end freshwater systems

    2. IceCap Gyre – Great Value!

    Best Value
    IceCap Gyre

    Best Value

    Breakthrough technology at a reasonable price. The IceCap Gyre is a great deal!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    The IceCap Gyre is the first gyre pump on the list. What is a gyre you say? A gyre is a water pump that is based on crossflow technology. Compared to traditional powerheads or wave makers, a gyre pump provides superior wave generating performance.

    Crossflow Gyre Movement

    The result of a gyre is that there are virtually no dead spots, evenly distributed water flow in the aquarium, and water moves back and forth to create full circulation or a “gyre.”

    The Ice Cap gyre is an entry level model. It starts off at a pretty reasonable price given that the icecap 2K model and easily handle a 36″ fish tank. It comes with a controller and there is an IceCap battery backup system that works well with it so you have a ready made solution for a power outage ready to go.

    The main disadvantage of a gyre over an aquarium wave maker is they require more maintenance to keep in optimal running shape. They are pretty big as well compared to a tiny wave maker. They are louder than some of the wave maker on the list. If noise isn’t an issue, this is a value water circulation system that is worth a look. See full review.

    Pros

    • Great innovative technology that eliminates dead spots
    • Great value as even a 2K gyre can handle a 36″ long fish tank
    • Readily available power back up solution available

    Cons

    • Big and bulky
    • Requires more maintenance
    • Louder than other wave makers on this list

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums

    3. Jebao SOW Series Flow Pump – Value Priced and Silent

    The Jebao SOW Wave Maker Flow Pump is the newest model DC wavemaker from Jebao. There are various other models from Jebao so I have listed the most recent edition. The main feature of the SOW Flow Pump is the Sine Wave technology. What is the Sine Wave technology? Sine Wave makes the DC converter more stable and as a result the pump generates less noise. This new model from Jabeo truly competes with the name brand wave makers on the list with a nearly unbeatable price and dead silent operation.

    The controller has a lot of wave maker options and a feed mode. Jabeo also sells a ready made battery backup so you are good to go with a complete battery backup solution.

    The main disadvantage with these Jabeo pumps is their reputation. The past models are not the most reliable with pumps burning out early and the controllers often failing. If you can purchase the unit with an extended warranty, it’s highly recommended that you do that. The silver lining is these wave makers are fairly cheap for a DC wavemaker so some hobbyist do consider these disposable.

    Pros

    • Sine Wave tech makes these VERY quiet
    • Lots of features on the controller
    • Great price

    Cons

    • Jabeo reputation

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums

    4. Current USA eFlux – Integrates With Loop LED and Dead Silent!

    Super Quiet!
    CURRENT USA eFlux

    The quietest wavemaker on the list. Simple to use and works well with all Current USA products

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    We start off this list with a great entry by Current USA and their EFlux Wavemakers. The Current USA EFlux comes in several options from a flow rate of 660 gallons per hour all the way up to a flow rate of 2100 gallons per hour. The main feature here is that they are part of Current’s Loop system, which are integrated with each other. It works seamlessly with the Current USA’s Best Reef LED offering – the Loop LEDs.

    I have personally used this system and can attest to their extremely quiet operation. My experience with Current USA has also been top notch with them going out of their way on warranty claims. The price isn’t that bad either! You can either purchase the EFlux with the controller or in the EFlux accessory wave pump package which comes without a controller.

    So what is there not to like? Well, the wave maker options are pretty limited. It only comes with 3 wave maker modes, stream, pulse, and gyre. Gyre can only be used if you pair it with another EFlux wave maker and the manifold will only support 3 wave makers so this can be a problem for larger fish tanks or high water flow setups. Overall, this is a great first entry on the list!

    Pros

    • Integrates with Current USA Loop LED for an all in one controller
    • Current USA’s customer service is top notch
    • VERY Quiet

    Cons

    • Limited wave maker options
    • Gyre mode only works with 2 pumps synced together
    • Manifold only supports 3 wave makers

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums

    5. Hydor Koralia – Great Choice, Reliable and Cheap

    Hydor Koralia

    The original wavemaker. AC powered and extremely reliable. A favorite among nano and old school reefers

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Hydor Koralia Wavemaker was and still is a very popular wave maker. It was the original wave maker on the market that brought about many of these other units. It is a trusted wave maker by many old school reefkeepers. It has only become less popular with the explosion of DC powered wave makers and all their controllable features. It is still very much considered as a nano aquarium circulation pump.

    The Hydor Koralia wave maker uses proven AC technology. It’s really a plug and forget system with how long the model has been around. It has the ability to adjust 180 degrees, which beats out many competitor wave makers that can only adjust up and down. This is a great option if you are planning to place a wave maker in the corner of an aquarium.

    Because it’s not a DC wave maker, it lacks a lot of the controllable features of them. However, Hydor also had one of the first wave maker controller accessories. If you purchase their wavemaker controller, you will have the control you want with the AC reliability. My only complaint if you purchase the wave maker and the controller is that is louder than some DC wave makers like the Current USA. I usually deal with noise levels being a major factor for installs. It’s the main reason I do not use them for residential installs.

    Pros

    • Attractive price
    • Proven AC technology
    • 180 degree adjust-ability

    Cons

    • Not controllable on its own
    • Louder than some DC pumps

    Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums

    6. Fluval Sea CP – Hagen Finally Gets Serious About The Marine Hobby

    Fluval Sea CP

    Hagen’s entry into the wavemaker sequence is a sold one. Built on reliable AC technology

    Buy On Amazon

    Hagen, the parent company of Fluval has been a big name brand in the freshwater industry for decades. When they got serious about saltwater aquarium keeping with their new Fluval Sea brand, the industry started listening. The Fluval Sea CP Wavemakers are Fluval’s first serious dive into a competent wavemaker that works for saltwater tanks. It has the trusted European engineering that we all know and love from Hagen and the great prices that go with Hagen’s extremely vast network of distribution.

    This is also the first AC powered wavemaker on the list. AC powered wavemakers in general can be more reliable than DC powered aquarium wavemakers because the technology has been well established and there are less failure points to consider when you just plug a wavemaker in without a power supply or controller.

    The main thing I will shame Hagen for is using a suction cup. A magnet suction cup base would have been well appreciated. As with most AC wavemakers, there are no adjustable functions or modes, so you will have to purchase a separate wavemaker accessory to get adjustability with it.

    Pros

    • Hagen brand name
    • Great price
    • AC powered = proven reliable technology

    Cons

    • Uses a regular suction cup instead of a magnet suction cup base
    • Bulky
    • Not adjustable or controllable (unless you purchase a wavemaker controller)

    Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums

    7. Maxspect Gyre XF Series – The Advanced Gyre for Advanced Reefers

    Maxspect Gyre XF

    The top of the line Gyre unit from Maxspect. Offers the best in cutting edge wavemaking technology

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    The Maxspect Gyre XF Series is the newest 3rd generation Gyre. This new generation gyre has been re-engineered so there are less parts and more intuitive assembly for easier maintenance. The most noticeable upgrade to these new gyres have detachable water flow directors that allow you to place the pump closer to the surface of the aquarium. These gyres still work with the CV6 controller from CoralVue so if you are looking to upgrade your previous version you don’t have to purchase another controller.

    This is a gyre loaded with features, which is expected from a premium level product. It commands a premium level price tag. It’s worth the money if you are building a high end system.

    Pros

    • Great features
    • Can be mounted higher than other gyres
    • The quietest gyre on the market

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Still large and bulky compared to wavemakers

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums

    8. Sicce Voyager – Italian Made Reliability

    Sicce Voyager

    Italian engineered and designed. Sicce delivers in their wavemaker debut

    Click For Best Price

    Sicce is best known for their protein skimmer pumps. Their skimmer pumps are the gold industry in the saltwater aquarium community. These Sicce Voyager Wavemakers are made of the same engineering quality of the famous skimmer pumps.

    The Italian made pump results is an extremely reliable pump that will last years in your aquarium. It also has the added advantage of being AC powered pump, which makes it will lack the failure points of a controller or power supply. Sicce also sells a Wave Surfer accessory, which will give you the added control-ability that you would get with a DC aquarium wave maker.

    Because you are working with a high quality Italian maker, there is an added cost for this pump. It is the most expensive AC wavemaker on the list, but you can assure yourself that you will get years of reliable service with this wavemaker. Outside of that, I personally think they look a little ugly and bulky, but I believe most people will see past that.

    Pros

    • Italian made quality and engineer
    • AC powered = more reliability
    • Sicce makes their own aquarium wave maker accessory for extra controllability

    Cons

    • Bulky and ugly looking
    • Expensive for an AC wavemaker

    Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums

    9. SunSun JVP – Cheap, cheap, and CHEAP! The cheapest choice for those on a budget!

    Sun Sun JVP

    A very cheap and serviceable wavemaker. Great for quarantine tanks and budgets

    Buy On Amazon

    If you are looking for a wave maker that is dirt cheap, the SunSun JVP Wavemakers are what you are looking for. Easily the cheapest aquarium wave maker on the list. The SunSun JVP wake maker is so cheap, I have no clue how the manufacturer even makes money on these when you add in shipping costs. Regardless, these are powerful and cheap wavemakers and are well suited for those on tight budgets.

    These are offered in a few GPH (gallons per hour) options, and several packages you will see online will actually come with 2 units, which is great knowing that you should expect these units not to last. The pumps are so cheap, you can nearly disregard the durability concerns. I still wouldn’t personally use them on my display tanks, but I do use them for my mixing stations and when making water changes. Their value really can’t be beat.

    Pros

    • Insanely cheap
    • Powerful flow rate with lots of GPH (gallons per hour) options

    Cons

    • Chinese quality = expect them not to last
    • Loud compared to other wavemakers on this list
    • Suction cup instead of magnet

    Best For: Mixing stations and budget aquariums

    10. Tunze Nanostreams – The Most Reliable On The Market.

    Tunze NanoStream

    The most reliable wavemaker on the list. Known for lasting many years

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Would you like to purchase an aquarium wave maker and never worry about it for the next 10 years? That is how anything Tunze designed is made and these Tunze Nanostreams are no exception. With the explosion of cheap Chinese made pumps flooding our aquarium industry, Tunze has quietly designed the most reliable and functional wavemaker on the market. The design is so well made, they haven’t even bothered to release a new generation model in ages!

    Tunze is simply the Eheim of the saltwater industry. Well known for creating products that last the test of time. They just do not market a lot, but anyone with years in the industry can attest to their name brand quality.

    This particular model comes equipped with it’s own controller that provides a good amount of functionality. The wavemaker itself can rotate a full 180 degrees just like the Hydor. If you want to go with DC power, Tunze sells a DC Nanostream Version as well that is even more powerful and feature rich. It’s really too bad that EcoTech has that patent on their mag drive tech because Tunze’s reliability is way better.

    That really is my only gripe with these pumps. They look old because they haven’t been updated in ages and the wire is inside the aquarium. They are big and bulky and easily show in your aquarium. Tunze does sell a rock mount accessory, but it doesn’t mean much as you still have to figure out what to do with the wire inside the fish tank.

    This is the most reliable pump maker period. If you want a pump to last forever, get a Tunze. You will thank me later.

    Pros

    • Incredible reliability
    • Highly adjustable control
    • 360 adjustability
    • AC or DC powered versions available

    Cons

    • Big and bulky looking
    • Expensive

    Best For: Saltwater Aquariums

    Factors to Consider When Buying (Our Criteria)

    It can be overwhelming to find the right aquarium wave maker for you. I have compiled a list of the best ones in the market using the following criteria:

    • Price – Some wavemakers are extremely cheap while others are very expensive.
    • Warranty – A manufacturer that makes a reliable wave maker backs up their aquarium wave makers with a solid warranty.
    • Durability – What are the field tested stories of these units. Have they been running for years or do they break every 6 months. If they break easily, are they cheap enough for you to consider disposable?
    • Safety – This is not so much of a concern with AC powered wave makers, but DC powered wave makers have their own power supply. You will want to make sure the power supply has a water tight seal at the connect point and that the unit has either a ETL or UL rated. ETL or UL rating ensures that your insurance covers an accident that may occur.

    How To Install

    Wave makers are extremely easy to install. Depending on whether you have a suction cup model or a magnetically attached model the install with differ slightly. With suction cups, you simple stick them to the aquarium glass/acrylic. They may have a knob or tab you can use to add in additional suction power, but that is really all there is to it.

    For magnets, it’s even easier as you stick the dry side magnet on the outside of the aquarium and put the wet side magnet on the inside of the fish tank. Once the wet and dry end do their thing, all you need to do to adjust the height of the wave maker is to hold the dry and wet side as you move the wave maker to the position you desire.

    Now choosing the best location for your aquarium wave maker is a bit of a complex topic. I’m going to focus on saltwater aquariums since water flow matters so much for corals. Here is a wonderful video from Current USA explaining the best position and flow to use with corals in a reef aquarium:

    Benefits of Use

    You may have seen traditional powerheads at your local fish store or pet chain store, so let’s talk about why you should consider a wave maker over a powerhead.

    Natural Water Flow

    An aquarium wavemaker produces a more natural looking flow pattern that replicates nature. A traditional powerhead is a sharper and fixed stream of flow that can be disruptive to fish or corals. It’s easier to get good water movement at the waterline with a wavemaker, which will work to eliminate surface scum that can accumulate at the top of the waterline.

    Ideal for Corals and Invertebrates In Your Saltwater Tank

    Corals in a reef tank demand variable as well as consistent flow. Some of them demand a rather high amount of flow that you are only going to get with a wave maker. You can easily purchase wave makers that can produce a flow rate of over 2,500 gallons per hour of flow with various settings. These settings are made to replicate nature and make your corals thrive. Invertebrates such as anemones will also benefit from the flow from these wave makers.

    Eliminates Dead Spots

    Wavemakers like Gyres are ideal for removing dead spots due to their design of covering all levels of the fish tank. You can also achieve this with multiple wavemakers. In freshwater, this ensures that oxygen is evenly distributed in the fish tank. In saltwater, this ensures constant flow and prevents detritus and cyanobacteria from growing in dead spots.

    Ideal Power Outage Solutions for Larger Tanks

    We do not like talking about it, but being prepared for a power outage is a big deal as it is one of the major reasons for a tank crash. In larger fish tanks, battery powered air pumps will not get the job done completely. This is where a DC powered wavemaker comes into play. Because they use so little power, they can be hooked to uninterrupted power supplies (UPS) and run for several hours. Some manufacturers actually make their power outage solutions, allowing the unit to run for several days!

    Different Types

    If you are new to the hobby, you may be confused what are the different types of pumps and why they so different. There are actually 4 types of aquarium pumps in the hobby and not all are suited for wavemaking:

    • Filtration Pumps – These are the pumps you will usually see on power filters. They are designed to create a high water pressure stream and have an impeller to resist back pressure. It has a higher energy consumption demand. As a stand alone pump, it is not suited for wavemaking
    • Circulation Pumps – Also known as return pumps or an aquarium flow pump. These pumps are made to pump water from one area to another. For example, from a sump to a main display tank. They are made to be placed on the bottom of a sump or externally depending on the model. They are not right for wavemaking
    • Powerheads – These are the traditional powerheads of old. These are what us old timers used to use. They produce a narrow, high pressure water flow. They sometimes come with diffusers to soften the water blast and they are not suited to be controlled with a wavemaker controller that would turn it on and off. They are also notorious for sucking up small fish because of their design. Some powerheads like the MJ1200 are extremely reliable units.

    AC vs DC – Knowing the Differences

    Before we go over all the wavemakers, I should explain the differences between AC and DC Wavemakers. AC wavemakers are based on old technology and are really plug and play. The big name brands like Fluval and Hydor, built their AC wavemakers on high quality and proven parts and engineering. This means AC wavemakers are extremely reliable and less prone to failure. On the budget side of things, AC wavemakers are going to be cheaper than DC wavemakers. For large fish tanks, they will be louder and they will consume more energy. They may not be ideal as a power outage solution because of the power needed to run them.

    DC Wavemakers are the new technology on the block. They offer decreased energy consumption, which is a big deal for larger fish tanks and reef tanks that require a ton of flow. They can produce more gallons per hour than most AC wavemakers and for the most part they can be more silent – to the point of being dead quiet. They have the ability to be programmed with controllers and many come with their own. These controllers provide a ton of customizable options for aquarists.

    However, with all this new tech comes reliability issues. Many DC wavemakers unfortunately are made and built in China. This can provide several quality control issues, especially with budget DC wavemakers. DC Wavemakers have three failure points vs. one for an AC wavemaker. With DC wavemakers you have the controller, powersupply, and motor all as failure points. With AC wavemakers, all you have to worry about is the motor giving out.

    What Do You Feel Are the Ideal Units?

    I hope after this article you are able to see why wavemakers are superior to powerheads and what are the best wavemakers available. There is a best aquarium wave maker for everyone depending on your wants and budget. All of these can work for freshwater aquariums all the way up to reef tanks.  Please let us know in the comments your thoughts about which wavemakers have worked for you. Thanks for reading.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Best RODI Systems โ€“ 2026 Reviews ๐Ÿ… (What’s Best for your Saltwater Tank)

    Best RODI Systems โ€“ 2026 Reviews ๐Ÿ… (What’s Best for your Saltwater Tank)

    An RODI unit was one of the best investments I made for my reef โ€” tap water was the silent cause of my early nuisance algae problems, and switching to 0 TDS RO/DI water made a measurable difference within weeks. I’ve used several systems over the years and know what matters: membrane quality, DI resin capacity, and GPD output relative to your tank’s evaporation rate. Here’s what I recommend after years of making top-off water for a 125-gallon reef.

    For those of us who who are going into reef keeping, a Reverse Osmosis Deionization (or RODI System) is essential for successfully keeping sensitive corals and inverts. Many of us start out with smaller tanks and purchasing RODI or fresh saltwater from our local fish store. While this will work for a time, once you get into larger tanks an RODI system is essential for success because you need more water to replace your evaporated water in your display tank and you will be conducting larger water changes. After a while, purchasing fresh saltwater will become expensive and risky in the event of an emergency.

    Today’s post is all about awareness and providing options that work for a reef keeper. I will go through what is important to know when purchasing an RODI system, and go through several RODI systems that work for aquariums. Let’s get started :).

    Why Do I Need A RODI System?

    The main reason why a RODI water is so essential in a reef tank is because the water from our tap is loaded with impurities that will cause tons of nuisance algae blooms even when treated with water conditioners that you may be familiar with in freshwater systems.  

    The main measure we use in the hobby for contaminants in tap water is total dissolved solids or TDS. TDS is a measurement that comprises of inorganic salts and organic matter that are dissolved in the water you are using. A high amount of TDS in your source water will means that you are directly feeding nurtients that algae loves, which means you will have a never ending battle of nuisance algae.

    The gold standard for reef tanks is 0 TDS. Most tap water is going to produce anywhere from 150 – 400 TDS (yes it varies A LOT depending on where you live). Using a Reverse Osmosis system alone will likely get you down to 10-20 TDS, which much better but still is not acceptable for a reef tank.

    This is why you will need a multi-stage RODI unit that has a proper deionization stage that will get you all the way down to 0 TDS. It is also very common for your local fish store to sell fresh saltwater with TDS of 3-5, which can cause some issues. Knowing that the local fish stores often time will not sell true 0 TDS water is the primarily reason why I just purchase a quality RODI unit for my aquariums.

    The Best RODI System for Aquarium, Reef Tanks

    Now that I explained why an RODI system is so essential, let’s talk about what are the best RODI systems. I have used a number of brands and models over the years and installed several of these systems for clients. The list here are a collection of brands and models I would trust and I have included models from multiple price ranges and needs.

    In a hurry? I recommend SpectraPure MaxCap RODI Systems!

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    SpectraPure MaxPure RO/DI System
    SpectraPure MaxPure RO/DI System
    • 5 Stages
    • Large Reef Tanks
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    LiquaGen 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Unit
    LiquaGen 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Unit
    • 5 Stages
    • Display tanks over 55G
    Buy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Aquatic Life RO Buddie
    Aquatic Life RO Buddie
    • 4 Stages
    • Nano Reefs & Apartments/Condos
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    AquaFX Barracuda RO/DI Aquarium Filter AquaFX Barracuda RO/DI Aquarium Filter
    • 4 Stages
    • Display tanks over 55G
    Buy On Amazon
    Kleanwater RODI Kleanwater RODI
    • 4 Stages
    • Display tanks over 55G
    Click For Best Price
    Spectrapure MaxCap RODI Spectrapure MaxCap RODI
    • 4 Stages
    • Display tanks over 55G
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    LiquaGen 0 TDS Aquarium Reef RODI Premium LiquaGen 0 TDS Aquarium Reef RODI Premium
    • 6 Stages
    • Large Reef Tanks and bad source water
    Buy On Amazon
    Fountainhead Water Systems RO/DI Dual DI 75 GPD System Fountainhead Water Systems RO/DI Dual DI 75 GPD System
    • 6 Stages
    • Large Reef Tanks and bad source water
    Buy On Amazon
    Ice Cap Smart 4 Stage 100GPD RO/DI Ice Cap Smart 4 Stage 100GPD RO/DI
    • 4 Stages
    • Large Reef Tanks
    Buy On Amazon

    Our 2023 Reviews

    Let’s dive into further detail and see what these units made the cut

    1. SpectraPure MaxPure 180 GPD

    Editor’s Choice
    SpectraPure MaxCap

    The Best RODI Unit

    With industry leading membranes and a 2:1 waste ratio rate, this is the best overall RODI system you can buy

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    For those of you with larger tanks and with demanding tanks, the SpectraPure 5 Stage 180GPD MaxCap line offers the pinnacle of RODI filtration. This unit is equipped with two 99% rejection rate RO membranes. That’s two of the best membranes in the industry. This 5 stage unit is also equipped with pressure gauges, dual TDS meters, and an upgraded DI resin.

    The resin for this unit is two part. The first part is their Mega MaxCap DI and the finishing stage is the Enduro DI. Together, you get DI resin that has 4 times the capacity of typical competitor mixed bed DI cartridges. This unit runs so efficient you get a 2:1 waste ratio rate which will outperform nearly all RODI units on this list that will only produce a 3:1 waste ratio. This means you will save a little bit on water as well!

    You would think that a con would be that this isn’t a 6 stage unit, but this RODI filter simply doesn’t need it as it runs that well. The only con here is you have to pay for the performance since as these command a premium price.

    Great for: Large Reef Tanks 

    Pros
    • The membrane!
    • 4x more effective than most DI out there
    • 180 GPD
    Cons
    • Price

    2. LiquaGen 5 Stage Unit – With All The Necessities 

    Best Value
    LiquaGen – 5-Stage RODI

    Best Value

    A complete 5 stage RODI unit without the excessive price

    Buy On Amazon

    Not on our list is a 5 stage RODI system from LiquaGen that offers all the main features I kept putting cons for others on this list. This system has everything you will need to make 0 TDS water. It comes with a flush valve to extend the life of your membranes, a pressure gauge to ensure you water pressure is ideal, and a TDS meter so you know when you change your DI Resin.

    This unit does command a higher price tag compared to the other budget models on this list, but it has everything you need. There is an option on the product page to go without the TDS meter and pressure gauge for a big discount, but having everything pre-installed is a time saver.

    The unit only comes with a garden hose adapter. You may need to purchase additional accessories for a under the sink install. This is the best performance for dollar on the list

    Great For: Large Reef Tanks

    Pros
    • Has everything you need for 0 TDS water
    • Universal chambers and membrane fittings
    • Flush valve!
    Cons
    • Price
    • Only comes with a garden hose adapter

    3. Aquatic Life RO Buddie – The Choice for College Students, Nano Reefers, and Apartment Residents

    Budget Option
    Aquatic Life RO Buddie

    Budget Option

    Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    For those of you with small tanks, college students, and those who live in apartments, the Aquatic Life RO Buddie is the perfect choice for you! This unit comes in 50, 100, and 150 gallon per day options and all three options are very well priced. It is a compact unit that can easily be moved wherever you need without having to worry about permanently installing it someplace. 

    Because it is a mobile RODI system, it is a bare bones unit. There is no pressure gauge, no TDS meter, and no flush valve. It also only comes with a garden hose adapter. Filters are also not universal so you’ll have to purchase Aquatic Life filter replacements.

    Great for: Nano Tanks, college students, and apartment residents

    Pros
    • Great Price!
    • Compact and mobile
    • Multiple GPD options 
    Cons
    • Missing gauges and valves
    • Only offers a garden hose adapter
    • Filters are not universal

    4. AquaFX Barracuda – A Brand Name on a Budget

    AquaFX Barracuda

    A solid 100 gallon per day unit made by a manufacturer dedicated to building quality units for saltwater tanks

    Buy On Amazon

    AquaFX is a long-standing manufacturer of RODI units for aquariums so the name brand is there. The main attraction is the simple build of the RODI unit and the 100 gallons per day (100 GPD) rating. Usually with budget units, you will have a GPD rating of 75 or less so this is a nice touch and you have the comfort of purchasing a unit that is from a maker that specializes in aquarium equipment.

    With a budget unit, you usually have a few components missing however. The unit does not come with a TDS meter, so you either have to purchase a TDS meter or you will need to eye ball your RODI chamber for when the color starts changing. A flush valve is not included. A flush helps extend the life of the RO membrane and knowing how pricey these are to replace, getting the most life out of it is something you will want to maximize. There is also only a garden hose included in this package.

    Great For: Display Tanks Over 55 Gallons

    Pros
    • Name brand
    • 100 GPD rating
    • Simple
    Cons
    • No flush valve
    • Only a garden hose adapter is included
    • No TDS Meter included

    5. Kleanwater – From A Trusted Retailer

    Kleanwater RODI

    Sold by a trusted retailer in Marine Depot, this 4 stage unit has all the essentials to make and maintain 0 TDS water

    Click For Best Price

    The Kleanwater RODI is a very well priced RODI unit that can fulfill the needs of most reefers. It is a 4 stage RODI unit equipped with a pressure gauge and a TDS meter, which ensures you will always have 0 TDS water.

    This is a very well priced unit, but it is missing a flush valve that would extend the life of the RO membrane. Other than that, it would be the perfect 4 stage unit

    Because this unit is made by Marine Depot, they offer a 15% discount on replacement filters for as long as you own the unit. Depending on how long you plan to stay in the hobby, that can save you a lot of money over time.

    Great For: Display Tanks Over 55 Gallons

    Pros
    • Good price
    • 15% off filters for life!
    • Brand name
    Cons
    • No flush valve

    6. SpectraPure MaxCap – Name Brand and The Highest Quality Membranes Available!

    SpectraPure MaxCap

    A stellar 4 stage RODI unit by Spectrapure. Best membranes in the industry

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Spectrapure is the name of choice when it comes to Reef Aquarium RODI units. This Company out of Arizona has been producing high-end RODI units with the best components in the market for many years now. So what makes them so great?

    The main thing that SpectraPure offers is their membranes. Their membranes are far and above the best on the market with a 99% rejection rate that sets the industry standard for contaminate removal and membrane longevity. There is no RODI maker on the the market for in this industry that can offer this level of filtration.

    SpectraPure’s primary 4 stage offering is the SpectraPure MaxCap RODI. Rated at 90 gallons per day, this unit has enough of a production rate to handle most reef systems. What you are getting with this brand is higher quality filtration stages. The membrane is the best in class and the maxcap carbon cartridge and silica buster DI are great features of the system. The maxcap systems are excellent for long life and insane pure water. Other brands will try to stuff other features or stages into their units, but this 4 stage unit has high end components that will easily compete with 5 and 6 stage units.

    It’s a pricey system, but if you want the brand in the business, Spectrapure is where you need to go.

    Great for: Large Reef Tanks

    Pros
    • Best RO membrane on the market
    • Stellar reputation in the industry
    • Outperform cheaper made 5 and 6 stage units
    Cons
    • Price
    • No TDS Meter
    • No flush valve

    7. LiquaGen 0 TDS 6 Stage – The Most Comprehensive 6 Stage Unit On The List!

    LiquaGen Premium RODI Unit

    6 stages 150 gallons per day and all accessories included. Best for high demand reef tanks

    Click For Best Price

    Looking for better than a 5 stage unit? This 6 stage RODI package from LiquaGen delivers! This is a complete 6 stage RODI system that includes a flush valve, pressure gauge, and TDS meter. Those are basic features that you get with this unit. It gets better though! This package comes with a booster pump that drives the gallons per day production to 150 gallons per day. That is the highest GPD rating on the list! This is the ultimate in filtration for those with high demand tanks, large reef tanks, and high TDS water.

    The cons here? Well, you get what you pay for. It has a premium price tag attached to it. It like all LiquaGen filters, only comes with a garden hose adapter

    Great For: Large Reef Tanks and bad source water

    Pros
    • Booster pump included
    • 6 stage RODI with all the essential features
    • 150 gallons per day!
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Only a garden hose is included for install

    8. Fountainhead Water Systems – A Well Balanced, Comprehensive Offering!

    US Made!
    Fountain Head RODI

    Made In The USA!

    A well priced 6 stage unit. One of the best values on the internet

    Buy On Amazon

    The Fountainhead Water Systems RO/DI System is a comprehensive unit that offers a 6 stage filtration for a great price! This unit is loaded with all the necessary stages of a great 6 stage setup. Foundationhead water systems is not an aquarium specialized filtration, but a water filtration company that sells filtration units for homes. This unit is a variant that works that for reef tanks. They are an American based company there systems are American Made.

    The are two flaws that I see with this unit, but both are easy to upgrade. A pressure valve and TDS meter is not included. If you upgrade your purchase with these two accessories, this is a perfect 6 stage unit for a incredible price! 

    Great For: Large Reef Tanks and bad source water

    Pros
    • Great price!
    • 6 stage system with universal RODI cartridges
    • Multiple install option accessories included
    Cons
    • No Pressure Valve Include
    • No TDS Meter included

    9. IceCap Smart 4 Stage – A High End Unit Made for Reefers

    IceCap Smart 4 Stage RODI

    A high end system desiged for reef tank owners

    Buy On Amazon

    The IceCap 4 Stage RODI unit is a high end RODI system made for reefers. The main feature this system has smart controller that offers an impressive range of features. The main feature is a timer mode, that prevents you from overflowing your wash room in the event you forget to turn off your unit. A booster pump is included, which is a substantial feature if you have a low water pressure residence. It has a 3 point TDS meter which measures before the filter, after the membrane stage, and after the DI stage. It’s easily the most accurate and high system on this list.

    It also commands a premium level price. This is the most expensive RODI system on the list and it’s only a 4 stage not a 6 stage unit. You get what you pay for though!

    Great for: Large Reef Tanks

    Pros
    • High performance parts – Dow Filmtec Membrane
    • Smart controller features – made for reefers
    • Auto membrane flush feature included
    Cons
    • Expensive!
    • Only a 4 stage unit
    • Requires electricity to operate

    Our Recommendations

    Best Value
    LiquaGen 5-Stage RODI

    Excellent Value!

    Budget Option
    Aquatic Life RO Buddie

    Cheap and Compact

    There are a number of choices here, but I’m going to close this out with my top three:

    What is the top choice for an Aquarium?

    I determined based on multiple factors that the SpectraPure MaxPure series the best in the industry. But how did I determine that?

    When it comes to RO/DI systems, there are A LOT of choices and the prices can get insane. You do not have to purchase the most expensive RO/DI unit out there. What you need to purchase is one that works for you. With that, it’s important you know what components make the best RO/DI systems.

    Multi-Stage Units

    This is the first must of any system. You will want an RO/DI unit that works through at minimum a 4 stage process. I’ll explain the process as illustrated by AquaFX below:

    RODI System Stages

    Most multistage systems will start with a sediment filter and carbon block as the first two stages of the system. A sediment filter removes silts and other large particulate matter that would clog the later stages and dirty up your water. The carbon block then removes organics with with chlorine and chloramines, which would damage the RO membrane.

    The water is then moved to the RO membrane. This is the workhorse of the RODI system. Most RODI systems will remove 95% of impurities out of the tap water. These impurities would include things like salt, bacteria, heavy metals, and other organics that would be harmful to your livestock. Some membranes like Spectrapures, are even a higher quality and can remove up to 99% or impurities, but 95% is the typical standard.

    You get to the final stage which is the deionization stage. this cartridge will remove the last of the impurities of the water giving you that 0 TDS gold standard source water that we as reefers look for.

    This is your standard 4 stage RODI unit. There are others that will go 5 or 6 stages. Personally, the main upgrade I would be looking for would be multiple DI stages for stable 0 TDS as the the DI stage gets exhausted. A 6 stage system flowchart is shown below so you can see how these higher end systems work.

    6 Stage RODI Stages

    How To Setup

    The most annoying thing I always found when purchasing these expensive units is the lack of instructions on how to go about installing one. Most people are likely going to install this unit in their wash room, so the best example to go off of is a video by Taylor Nicole Dean as she shows how to install this RODI system using a garden hose adapter.

    Here’s an another video of a garage install from Reefbum. They installed an Spectrapure MaxCap Unit:

    How Much Water Pressure Is Necessary?

    RODI Water Pressure Meter

    In some homes, your water pressure may be too low for an RODI system to function properly. The RO water pressure gauge on your RODI unit will let you know if you have drops in water pressure. The main thing you want to watch out for is if your water pressure is below 50 PSI. RODI system work optimally at around 60 PSI. If your water line is pushes only say 30 PSI, you may want to consider an RO booster pump or checking your filter lines for clogs.

    Maintaining Your Unit

    Each stage of your RODI filters need to replaced in order to keep your system in optimial operation. If the system is not maintained regularly, the RODI system can produce less water and TDS could actually leak through the system. The great thing about RODI systems is they last for forever, being one of the most reliable systems and mainstays in your tank operations.

    Sediment Prefilter

    The ROD sediment prefilter needs to be replaced every six months or sooner for areas with higher TDS water (over 400).

    Carbon Cartridges

    With a used cartridge, your membrane will end up doing more work and may even develop bacterial growth in the chamber. This should be replaced every six months.

    Reverse Osmosis Membranes

    Spectrapure Membranes

    The workhorse of the system, this is the most important thing to change in your RODI unit aside from the DI resin. Usually these will need to be replaced every 9-12 months, but sometimes can go longer with a flush kit being used and cleaner source water. The best way to gauge this is to see what TDS is come out of the membrane stage. If you are getting a much higher number than what you are used to seeing, it may be time to replace the membrane. Dow Filmtec membranes and Spectrapure RO membranes are the best in the business. Just check with your RODI manufacturer to ensure they fit if you go with them.

    Deionization Cartridge

    The final stage of your system is the easiest to gauge when you need to change. This is because most resin you purchase will change color over time. You can also read your TDS meter and consider changing your DI resin once your TDS meter is reading 1-2 TDS. It will depend on your source water and rejection rate as to how long these will last. There are several DI resin available on Amazon with Lanxess DI Resin being the most consistent with reviews and they also ship fastest. SpectraPure Resin is considered the best in the business, but it’s most preferred to order them directly from them for the best price.

    Closing Thoughts

    I hope this blog post helps with deciding what RODI system works best for your needs and budget. Every unit I listed here serves a purpose for every tank setup and budget. You will not be disappointed with any of the filters on this list. These systems will delivery quality 0 TDS water and will offer years of service. I look forward to hearing about your success in the hobby with these excellent units. If you are shopping around for more equipment, check out our Best Protein Skimmer Reviews post so you can pick out a quality skimmer for your system. Thanks for reading.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Saltwater Aquarium Equipment Guide: Where to Spend and Where to Save

    Saltwater Aquarium Equipment Guide: Where to Spend and Where to Save

    I’ve set up saltwater tanks at almost every budget level โ€” from a modest starter system to a full SPS-dominant 125-gallon reef โ€” and the equipment decisions that hurt people most are almost never the big-ticket items. It’s the corners cut on lighting, skimming, or flow that quietly derail a tank over months. After 25 years of seeing what works and what fails, I know exactly where to spend and where the cheaper option is perfectly fine.

    Saltwater aquarium equipment is where most new reefers get burned โ€” not by making one expensive mistake, but by making five medium-sized ones chasing shiny gear they didn’t need. I’ve been setting up and tearing down reef tanks for over 25 years, I’ve personally tested hundreds of pieces of equipment, and I run a sponsor-free site, which means I can tell you what actually works without worrying about whose product I’m pushing. The reality is that for most of the gear categories in a reef tank โ€” skimmers, return pumps, heaters, lighting โ€” there’s a gold-standard option and a budget option that performs at 80-90% of the quality for half the price. This guide maps out both for every major equipment category so you can decide where to spend and where to save.

    I won’t lie to you…

    Saltwater Aquarium Equipment is Expensive!

    With the added marketing efforts and push towards high tech and cool looking saltwater aquarium equipment, it’s easy to find equipment like LED lighting costing over $800 that just covers a 2×2 space. Where does this madness end! It’s easy to get scared away from forums, the LFS, and big equipment e-stores telling you the cheap stuff is junk and doesn’t last.

    I’m here today to help guide you show you the gold standard in the industry and the cheaper alternative that can literally save you hundreds even thousands of dollars.

    I will pull out no stops here and will throw out equipment I don’t even carry for the sake if saving you dollar bills. The way I see it, if I can supply you with alternatives for the high end saltwater aquarium equipment the more money you will have to enjoy the hobby! We will use a standard 4 foot 120 gallon reef tank equipment setup as our example.

    RODI Systems

    This is the heart of a larger tank setup. Lots of water top off and the ability to store water when you need it in a pinch is a really big deal when you are running a larger saltwater aquarium and reef tank.

    Best RODI System

    The SpectaPure MaxCap RODI System is the top of its class when it comes to a high end RODI system. With the best membrane rejection rate on the market and quality construction this is the unit to purchase if money is not an issue.

    Editor’s Choice
    SpectraPure MaxCap

    The Best RODI Unit

    With industry leading membranes and a 2:1 waste ratio rate, this is the best overall RODI system you can buy

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Cheap RODI System But Still Reef Worthy – LiquaGen 5 Stage RODI

    The Spectra Pure RODI System commands a premium price tag of several hundred dollars. That’s not exactly cheap. There are two alternatives I will provide here. The first is a similar 5 stage RODI System from LiquaGen. This system is easily half the cost of a comparable Spectrapure system and will do the job for many reefers out there.

    Best Value
    LiquaGen – 5-Stage RODI

    Best Value

    A complete 5 stage RODI unit without the excessive price

    Buy On Amazon

    The RODI Unit for Budget and Nano Reefers – LiquaGen 4 Stage RODI

    For those with smaller tanks the Aquatic Life Portable Aquarium RODI 4 stage system is a great solution to free you having to get RODI water from your LFS or distilled water from the grocery store. Nearly half the price of the 5 stage, this unit should be able to fit the smaller budgets of small tank builds and nano reefers.

    Budget Option
    Aquatic Life RO Buddie

    Budget Option

    Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    Protein Skimmers 

    Ah yes Protein Skimmers, the heart of the vast majority of successful reef tanks. They have been a staple of many saltwater aquariums. Unfortunately, they tend to get VERY expensive at the highest end levels. Fear not though, I have you covered.

    Best Protein Skimmer 

    The Nyos Quantum 120 Protein Skimmer is definitely one of the best protein skimmers on the market. Sure there are some skimmers at this 120 gallon reef tank example size that can command a higher value and we are not over sizing in this case, but the Nyos has been the go to of one big YouTubers like FishofHex

    Editor’s Choice!
    NYOS QUANTUM

    The Best Protein Skimmer

    German made, super silent, and world class performance. This is the pinnacle of skimmer technology today!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Bubble Magus Curve – The Go-To Cheap Protein Skimmer

    The Bubble Magus Curve Series has been the go to for a cheap protein skimmer for many years in the hobby. Well trusted, reliable, and works very well. it will serve you well in your system. It should be around half the cost of an equivalently rated Nyos skimmer.

    Budget Option
    Bubble Magus Curve

    Budget Option

    Great skimmer for a great price

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Return Pumps 

    Let’s talk about return pumps. This is a central piece of any reef system using a sump. I would argue next to a heater, it is the one major component of a reef system that you cannot afford to fail. When selecting a return pump, reliability and durability are above any feature a manufacturer can offer in my opinion.

    Abyzz DC Controllable Pumps – Best DC Return Pump

    If money is no object, the Abyzz DC Controllable Pumps are top of mind of the best things out there. It is a DC pump that is backed by a 10-year warranty. This German made DC pump puts out no stops when it comes to quality and the price shows. For the 120 gallon tank we are using as an example, the A100 is the model we are going to select and at a massive $1,499.99 price tag, this DC pump will provide years of worry free operation.

    Abyzz Pumps

    Reef Octopus VarioSCheap Aquarium DC Return Pump

    The Reef Octopus VarioS series DC pumps offer a solid cheaper solution for a DC return pump. While it does not have the 10 year warranty, the VarioS pump does offer a 2 year warranty and has been often called the best value among DC return pumps on the market. In today’s market of high tech reef toys, the Varios DC return pump really focuses on quality and they provide a good mix of quality and value. I would definitely consider these over a Jabeo return pump.

    Reef Octopus VarioS DC Return Pumps

    Fluval Sea SP4 — We Are Going Old School! 

    Yes you are reading this correctly, an AC return pump. Now why would I put a this Fluval Sea SP4 AC Return Pump as the best value for cheapest and highest quality return pump for your sump? Well various reasons actually:

    • An AC pump has less failure points than a DC pump with only the motor and impeller. A DC pump can additionally fail on the controller and the power supply – of which both tend to fail quite frequently
    • An AC pump handles head pressure better than a DC pump, which means it is more worry free if you are using manifolds or having to restrict flow
    • The Fluval Sea SP4 is built off the the same tried and true tech of return pumps that have run in the field for over 10 years – the Askoll Motor Block
    • The Fluval Sea SP4 is made in Italy – no cheap Chinese parts
    • The Fluval Sea SP4 is backed by a solid 3 year warranty. At its entry level price point you can buy several Fluval SP4s and still have enough money for other equipment over an Abyzz

    And flow if you are wondering is easily controlled by a gate or ball valve on an AC return pump. There are other very solid very durable options like a Danner Magnum Pump or Eheim Hobby Pump, but the Danner tends to be loud and the Eheim Hobby Pump does not produce enough GPH for it to be applicable to our 120 gallon tank example. The Fluval Sea SP4 completely crushes it with quiet operation, a solid Italian made pump, proven durable AC technology, and good looks. Get one today and forgot about it for the next 10 years – Askoll built pumps are that good!

    Fluval Sea SP

    Designed with the reliable Askoll motor, these Italian made AC return pumps are a great pickup

    Buy On Amazon

    Reef LED Lighting

    Our last core piece of equipment we are going to touch on is Reef Led Lighting. This is a section where you can spend $1,000s of thousands on top end of lighting, but I’m going to show you a few alternative so you don’t break the bank.

    EcoTech Marine Radions Best Reef Tank Lighting System

    There is a reason why top coral sellers like World Wide Corals rely on EcoTech Marine Radion. They are incredibility flexible in functionality and well built units and with the diffuser upgrade are able to handle heavy SPS coral reef tanks. If money is no concern for you on this 120 gallon example 2 Radion XR30w units will do the job and handle any coral build and is considered by many the best lighting system for a reef tank.

    Used by World Wide Corals
    EcoTech Radion G5

    Editor’s Choice

    The newest Radion G5 is a massive update to the prior generation. It’s the light of choice for pro level reefers.

    Click For Best Price

    EcoTech Marine Radions Cheap LED Reef Tank Lighting System

    Ah the Chinese black box. While other sellers try to scare you away from them, the Mars Aqua LED Reef Aquarium lighting system offers a quality light that is fully capable of growing corals in a mixed reef system and even heavy SPS reef tank. They are ETL rated, which is considered an equivalent of UL rated. Two of 165W models will work for most reefs and two 300W could be considered for a heavier SPS setup. They are easily hundreds of dollars less than a Radion.

    Another additional option would be the Evergrow LED Reef Lighting System. Evergrow models are the same lighting manufacturer used by Reefbreeder’s older generation models that have been well received by the reefing community.

    What Other Picks Do You Recommend?

    Have another piece of saltwater aquarium equipment that you would recommend? Leave a comment below. We’ll follow up with a part 2 in the future that will go over other key equipment so you can continue to save money and still buy quality equipment.

  • Saltwater Quarantine Tank Guide: The Setup Most Reef Keepers Skip (And Regret)

    Saltwater Quarantine Tank Guide: The Setup Most Reef Keepers Skip (And Regret)

    I skipped a quarantine tank when I first set up my reef โ€” and I paid for it with a full-blown ich outbreak that took months to clear. It’s a lesson I only needed to learn once. Now a QT is non-negotiable for me before anything new goes into my display tank. The setup doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated, and I’ll show you exactly what I run and why it works.

    The saltwater quarantine tank is the single most important thing most reef keepers skip โ€” and the consequences usually show up when it’s too late. After 25 years in the saltwater hobby, I’ve seen this pattern more times than I can count: a new fish gets added directly to a display reef, introduces ich or marine velvet, and within weeks the whole tank is in crisis. Marine parasites are extremely common in the trade โ€” assuming fish from even a reputable store are disease-free is a dangerous assumption. A proper quarantine tank lets you observe fish, treat them if needed, and protect everything you’ve built in your display. This guide covers everything you need to set one up and run it correctly.

    Key Takeaways

    • Fish diseases are worse in saltwater fish with three being potential tank wipers – Marine Velvet, Brook, and Uroema
    • Probalaytic Quarantine is more common and accepted in marine fish vs freshwater fish
    • There are multiple methods you and use to quarantine fish – all with pros and cons

    Why Do We Quarantine Our Fish?

    I’m going to go off the cuff here and say that the primary reason for quarantine is recovery of your fish. Fish that you have picked up to from the local fish store or online have gone through a variety of channels to get to you. It is probably an understatement to say that if the fish has come to you and is wild caught it is within the top 25% of fish in the supply chain that made it out. Many fish die or get sick during capture and transplant.

    The Ornamental Fish Trade Supply Chain

    Quarantining a fish allows the fish to destress and for you to have the fish adjust to your parameters, your food, and provides it a safe space for it to thrive away from more aggressive and established tank mates who can out compete it for food. Putting a fish directly into your display puts the fish in more stress and added stress events leads to our next reason for why we quarantine our fish.

    Preventing Saltwater Fish Diseases Through Quarantine

    A fish’s immune system should be able to fight off more infections and diseases, however the shock of transportation compromises your fish’s immune system leaving it vulnerable to any disease that gets shipped with it. Some of these diseases when they break out can be so deadly, they can wipe out your tank within days. So what are these deadly diseases? Well, I will tell you right now it’s not ich. Ich is child’s play compared to these three and they are becoming more and more common in the fish supply chain.

    Three Deadly Fish Diseases

    When you look up diseases, forum posts, or YouTube videos online you will come to MANY articles about ich. Ich this and Ich that. Now Ich is common and can kill your fish, but can be treated and in some cases your fish can simply recover from it. But these three diseases are 100% deadly, will wipe out your tank in days, and there are no known ways to treat these diseases with reef-safe medications (Sorry Kick Ich, Ich Attack, Ich Guard, Paraguard — this ain’t working on them).

    Marine Velvet 

    Marine Velvet

    It’s the most common saltwater fish disease of the Deadly Three. It looks like ich, but it is far more deadly. Sometimes it kills fish before they are even able to display symptoms. Marine Velvet MUST be treated in a quarantine tank/hospital tank and requires your main display to go fishless for 76 days to remove it from the display. It is probably the #2 reason for tank crashes in the hobby with heater failures being #1. The go-to treatments are Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate.

    Uroema

    Uromea Marinum

    The least common of the deadly 3 but considered the worst and hardest to treat. Chromis and Anthias are unfortunately the most prone to this disease, but it can spread to other fish. This particular disease is resistant to Copper and Choloroquine Phosphate, requiring higher than traditional dosages. It can also go into the internals of the fish and damage it further requiring other medication like Metro to add in internal treatment. Uroema is also a free living parasite which means it can exist without fish present in the tank. Once a fish has Uroema one should assume that the disease exists in the system. Talk about scary!

    Brooklynella (AKA Clownfish Disease)

    Brooklynella Clownfish Disease

    Brooklynella is a nasty disease that Clownfish and Anthias are unfortunately prone to. This is how it got it’s infamous nickname of Clownfish Disease. Brooklynella looks similar to velvet, which in my opinion is why it is safe safe to assume that your fish has either or when you observe it. Both Brooklynella and Marine Velvet can be treated with Copper and Chloroquine Phosphate. Further protection with Metro is recommended to protect the internals of the fish as Brooklynella can also go internal as well.

    How To Isolate Fish – The Various Methods

    So now we have discussed why we quarantine fish, now let’s discuss the types of QT and rate each one.

    Deciding Not To Isolate

    No QT Tank

    All the power to you if you want to go this route. The hobbyists most successful with this method have stellar local fish stores (LFS) around them that they have strong relationships. If the store can hold a fish for you for 2-4 weeks, you will have better success. However, finding a local fish store this stellar for most of us is a needle in a haystack. Personally, in my location I have had difficulty finding a good local fish store. Literally every fish I have purchase came with something and QT has saved me tons of headache and thousands of dollars in losses.

    Hyposalinity

    Hyposalinity

    Hyposalinity has been around for ages in the hobby. It’s a tried and method that requires precision and constant monitoring. The reason why it doesn’t make my list of preferred methods is because it will not treat against the Deadly Three. This disqualifies this method for me.

    Tank Transfer Method (TTM)

    Tank Transfer Method

    Tank Transfer Method or TTM is a very popular method among the forums and even by some online store who have suggested it as a reliable method. However, the supply chain has changed since those times. 3 years ago I would say TTM was great, but with the increased commercialization of the hobby I am seeing more and more of the deadly 3 appearing and cannot recommend this method any longer. Tank transfer method will not protect your fish against the deadly three. You can however do a hybrid TTM with medications like Copper and CP, which I will explain in Part 2.

    Safety Stop

    Safety Stop

    Now we are getting to methods that protect against the deadly three (Amazon Affiliate links ahead). Safety Stop is first up (Ruby Reef Rally can also be used if you cannot obtain Safety Stop). Safety Stop is a medicated dip of Formalin and Methylene Blue. Formalin is consider one of the hard drugs of the hobby, capable of wiping out various disease such as Marine Velvet, Brook, and Uroema.

    Melev’s Reef has documented his process of how he added all his fish to his 400 Gallon tank with no quarantine over a 2 year period. That is proof that this method will work. Safety Stop will not prevent against internal parasite however and if your fish end up with a bacterial infection – there is no way to treat this in a display. This is why I recommend dipping your fish in Safety Stop before they go into Quarantine

    Copper – (Using Chelated Copper AKA Copper Power)

    Chelated Copper Coppersafe

    Time to get into the good stuff! The next two method are ironclad and will protect against just about any disease in QT. The next two methods also have their uses depending on the fish you needing to QT. Chelated copper is considered more preferable over over type of copper because it is safe and has a higher therapeutic range. You have to maintain your levels throughout the process and I would recommend a precise tester like a Hanna Checker.

    People are generally scared of copper due to the fears from Companies selling “Reef Safe” medication and those who want to do natural remedies. I will tell you right now that both Copper and Chloroquine Phosphate are veterinarian choices when it comes to treating external parasites. Would you rather listen to a licensed vet or a Company that wants to make money off you selling subpar medication?

    *UPDATE* – We no longer support Copper Safe for Chelated Copper. Copper Power would be the safest and more consistent chelated copper on the market. Use together with a Hanna Checker Copper Tester. Copper Power is very difficult to find at a local fish store. It is best to purchase it off Amazon directly from the manufacturer, Enrich. Copper can also be combined with General Cure instead of Prazipro.

    My Pick
    Copper Power

    The Most Available Velvet Mediciation

    Copper Power is Chelated Copper that is more stable than Cupermine and easier to use

    Buy On Amazon

    Here’s a video from my friend Aaron who goes over Copper Power treatment. You can use this Copper Power Calculator to determine the dosage you need:

    Chloroquine Phosphate + General Cure (The Current Meta In Marine Fish Disease Treatment)

    Chloroquine Phosphate

    We have come to the pinnacle of Prophylactic treatments available in the hobby. Chloroquine Phosphate plus the combination of API General Cure is provides the simplest nearly full proof method of quarantine. Chloroquine Phosphate (or CP for short) is the preferred medication for Marine Velvet, Brooklynella, and Uroema. It is as close to a wonder drug as you can get currently. It is easy to administrator as long as you have a good digital scale to measure (these are easy obtained for cheap).

    The main issue with Chloroquine Phosphate is that is it difficult to obtain outside of a Veterinarian’s prescription. If you are like me, you probably cannot obtain Chloroquine Phosphate from a Vet and have to go of the route of obtaining it from a supplier. Getting it from a supplier can be risky as you may not know the source and the purity of the substance. I obtain aquaculture grade Chloroquine Phosphate so you can always purchase it from me and I have certificate of analysis available so you know the purity and can adjust accordingly. Here is a link to a Chloroquine Phosphate Dosage Calculator.

    Instructions for Setup

    Setting up a quarantine tank is fairly easy to do, you just want to make sure you have the correct equipment and meds to get started. You will want to start off with a long tank. A 20 gallon or 29 gallon are ideal as you can use this larger quarantine tank to house multiple fish and get your QT done faster. A 10 gallon tank will also suffice, but more suited to 1 fish at a time quarantine. Petco’s dollar per gallon sale is the way to go to get these tanks as they are really cheap if you buy them on sale.

    After that, you want a reliable power head for flow – at least 400 gph and some type of filtration. I prefer to use the best power filter, which is an aquaclear power filter as you can use multiple media in the filter and use carbon to remove medication. A sponge filter is also an ideal alternative for a budget conscious build.

    A seachem ammonia badge is necessary to monitor your ammonia levels since many low priced test kits will not detect ammonia correctly once you start doing copper or chloroquine phosphate.

    A heater (check out our best aquarium heaters post for recommendations) and a cheap thermometer round out the list of electronic equipment.

    The last things are shelter and a cover. PVC fittings are ideal because they will not absorb medication and can provide tunnels for your fish. These can be purchased from any hardware store. A cover is an absolute must if you want to provide a fish from jumping. I prefer a glass cover for QT systems since I don’t have to worry about evaporation and can be custom cut in the back to ensure 100% coverage.

    Getting a QT tank cycled up can be a tricky endeavor. If you are starting brand new, the best way to quickly cycle the QT tank is to throw in a few of the filter sponges in your dry or live rock tank when you start cycling your main tank. Once that tank cycles, the media in the tank will be full of bacteria and ready to go into your QT. If you started with dry rock, you have the advantage of starting disease free so you can freely throw in the sponges in the QT system to get started.

    For live rock starts, if you follow the proper “cooking” method of no lights and a 5-8 week cure, that period of time going fishless should eliminate all harmful pathogens in the water column. Since you are going to use meds in your QT, the risk is pretty minimal so as long as you follow a 5-8 week fishless cure timeframe with liverock you will be ready to go with your QT system. The advantage you have with liverock is that the rock can self-sustain without fish indefinitely so you can take your time QTing. With dry rock, you will need to monitor your phosphates and nitrates to make sure you do not bottom out.

    If you already have a tank setup, throw in the filter sponges in your sump for 2-3 weeks to get it full of bacteria. You do run the risk of introducing pathogens if you didn’t QT previously. Another method is to dose the sponges with bacteria-in-a-bottle products like biospira and carefully monitor your ammonia levels from there.

    The video above goes over the parts list and the complete 32-35 day flowchart for quarantine with CP and General Cure. Both the method I use and Aaron’s will work very well so use the method that works for you and with the medications you can obtain.

    If you want to be in the know, subscribe to our YouTube Channel and sign up for updates to our blog. Stay Tuned!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • How to Get Rid of Dinoflagellates in Reef Tanks โ€“ Control & Removal Guide

    How to Get Rid of Dinoflagellates in Reef Tanks โ€“ Control & Removal Guide

    Dinoflagellates are one of the most dreaded problems in the reef hobby โ€” and I say that as someone who’s battled them firsthand in my 125-gallon reef. What makes dinos so frustrating is that they’re not fully understood and they require a multi-pronged approach to eliminate. I’ve worked through dino outbreaks myself and tested various strategies, and I can tell you the methods that actually move the needle. This guide covers everything from identification to long-term prevention.

    Key Takeaways

    • Dinos are caused by a combination of a lack of biodiversity and lack of nutrients in a saltwater aquarium
    • Dinoflagellates can light without nutrients and off lighting. Sunlight and lighting will make things worse
    • There are several ways to get rid of Dinos, but the most tried and true is adding biodiversity and dosing nitrates and phosphates to maintain minimal levels for other algae to grow

    What Are Dinoflagellates?

    In the Wild

    Dinoflagellates are protists, an organism that can function as a plant and an animal at the same time. Some dinoflagellates eat other protozoa; some generate energy through photosynthesis; some can do both. In the wild, there are about 1,700 different kinds of marine dinoflagellates and 200 freshwater kinds. They are important part of the food chain, providing nourishment for other sea creatures. In a natural environment, they’re a crucial member of the ecosystem. 

    In Your Tank

    Unfortunately, dinoflagellates quickly become a nuisance in an aquarium environment. 

    Dinoflagellates quickly overrun the surface in your aquarium because there is no specific ecosystem for them to survive. Depending on the conditions, dinoflagellates can multiply up to a million cells in one milliliter of water in just a short period of time. The bigger the population, a higher chance that it will make the water toxic and can kill other life form inside your tank. So, it’s important to control dinoflagellate population as early as possible before it occupies every space inside your aquarium. 

    What Should I Look For?

    It’s not like you’re going to go to the store and buy some dinos to dump into your tank; these pests are introduced to your tank accidentally. Your tank can get this from food, corals, rocks, and other aquatic plants. Dinos are very resilient because it can live without eating anything for a long time unlike any other life forms like algae.

    Nutrients are present in your tank which gives energy to fishes and plants. Even if your tank lacks nutrients, dinos can still survive. It is possible for your tank to have dinos if the nitrates and phosphates level in your aquarium are close to zero. It is important to regularly check your tank before it becomes too late. 

    Identifying What Dinoflagellate You’re Dealing With

    The best way to approach your dino problem is to first figure out what kind of dino has moved into your aquarium. 

    The most common dinoflagellate (or “dino” for short) to see in an aquarium is a slimy, stringy brown variety, commonly known as Brown Slime Algae. Most aquarium enthusiasts have dubbed it “the brown menace.” They’re not all brown, though. They also come in white, yellow, and various shades of green. 

    In more technical terms, there are four main dinoflagellates you’ll see in your aquarium1

    Ostreopsis

    Ostreopsis Dinoflagellate

    Prorocentrum

    Prorocentrum Dinoflagellates

    Amphidinium

    Amiphidium Dinoflagellates

    Coolia

    Coolia Dinoflagellates

    Some of the things all of these guys have in common is that they: 

    • Are mucous-like (sometimes described as runny boogers)
    • Produce air bubbles
    • Trap air bubbles between the slime and the glass of the tank
    • Spread quickly, covering all surfaces with coral being a particular favorite

    Here’s an easy test you can do to determine if you have algae or dinos: 

    • Scoop some sludge and water out of your tank.
    • Put the sludgy water in a clear container with a lid.
    • Shake the container to break up all of the floating bits.
    • Filter the water either through paper towel or a filter sock into a second clear container.
    • Leave the second container of filtered water in a sunny location.
    • Monitor the water for changes, namely the reappearance of mucous-like strands.

    Eventually, dinoflagellates will regroup after they’ve been filtered. Algae will remain separated. So, if the strands of goo show up, you know you have dinos! 

    How Do I Get Them Under Control?

    Dinos aren’t necessarily a bad thing. When there aren’t too many of them, they’re part of the ecosystem. But if you provide an ultra low nutrient tank with no biodiversity, they’ll make themselves known quickly. The best way to tackle them varies on how bad your case is. 

    Dinos are a very resilient pest to control in the aquarium. You will never get rid of them completely since they are part of the ecosystem, but you have to control them with a multi-prong approach in order to keep them for showing themselves in your tank.

    Manual Removal

    The first step is removal. Others might think that they need to remove all the water and change it with a new one, but that is definitely wrong. Along the process of removing dinos, changing the water in your tank will make things worse. Dinos thrive in nutrient straved tanks and cleaning water will eliminate nutrients and allow Dinos to thrive further. It advisable that you remove the dinos manually with the use of filter sock instead of changing water.

    You will need a very fine filter sock to do this (Quick Note – this post contains affiliate links. An affiliate link means I may earn advertising or referral fees if you make a purchase through my link). A 10 micron filter sock is fine enough to catch dinos in the water column.

    Increasing Nitrates and Phosphates

    • Another way to get rid of dinos is by increasing the amount of nutrients in your tank. You should increase nitrates and phosphates to observable level. You may consider nitrates with NeoNiitro and NeoPhos from Brightwell Aquatics. Even a freshwater solution like SeaChem Flourish will work as well.

    Remove Nutrient Reducing Media

    You also need to remove nutrient reducing media like GFO. It is common for many tanks to have dino outbreak because of the presence of GFO. When you get rid of GFOโ€™s, it is easier for you to increase the nutrient level in your tank and maintain it in the long run. Stop doing any type of nutrient decreasing dino. Examples are No-Pox and Vodka dosing.

    Protect Your Invertebrates and Fish!

    Along the process of dealing with dinos, having carbon present in your tank will help neutralize the toxins they release as they die off. This will protect your livestock.

    Adjust pH

    Adjust the pH of your tank. A pH of +8.4 is a good level for reef tanks to avoid dino blooms. The pH is something you can play with over time to determine what works best for your tank.

    Kill The Lights

    Control the lighting in your tank because the most common dinos derive their energy from photosynthesis, so killing the lights will also kill them. You can use a blackout curtain or cardboard with duct tape around the tank and on top of the tank. Blackouts should last at least 72 hours. Blackouts will usually not result in an eradication of dinos, but will qwell them done to the point where you can start utilizing other methods.

    Use Hydrogen Peroxide

    Add small doses of hydrogen peroxide to your tank. The general rule is 1 ml per 10 gallons of water.  Regular 3% hydrogen peroxide is used.

    Use A UV Sterilizer

    Use a UV Sterilizer. Get a high quality and well sized UV Sterilizer and run it 24-7. The UV sterilizer will be most effective during the blackout period. This method works best when dealing with Ostreopsis. You can use a Jabeo UV as a cheap solution or an Aqua UV for a high-end solution.

    The Nuclear Option – Use Dino X

    Fauna Marin has developed a product called Dino X that is made to eliminate dinoflagellates in a reef tank. It is a very harsh treatment and should only be considered after all these methods are attempted and you increase biodiversity (see below on that). Fauna Marin requests that you not use carbon during the treatment program, which makes this risky to use since dinos will release toxins when they start to die. Remove as much as possible before attempting. Fauna Marin also recommends using a protein skimmer during the treatment option, so those with nano reef tanks or skimmerless setups may not be able to use this product.

    Fauna Marin Dino X

    Fauna Marin’s Dino X is the only solution designed to work against Dinos that is readily available

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    How Can I Prevent Them in the First Place?

    Biodiversity is a major reason why new tanks get dinos when they hit low nutrient conditions. A biodiverse tank has multiple organisms that compete with dinos and keep them from thriving. When choosing the type of rock you are going to use, keep biodiversity in mind. You can choose between live rock and complete dry rock or a hybrid, but I would caution against going with a 100% dry rock and dry sand start.

    Dry rock is devoid of biodiversity while in a live rock tank you donโ€™t usually see dinos. It is hard for them to multiply because there too many competitors even in a low nutrient environment.

    The problem will be the availability of the live rock because it is quite hard to find nowadays and is expensive to boot. 

    These days – Real Reef Live Rock is the best source for aquacultured live rock that has the right balance of biodiversity while still being free of pests. This is the best option for those who who not use a sand bed and going bare bottom yet want to free of the risk of pests. 

    Real Reef Rock

    This is the best aquacultured rock you can find in stores and online

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    You can obtain Live Rock from Florida that is Maricultured. If you are starting up a new tank and can cure, this is an excellent option. It is shipped directly to your door. The base is Oolite Limestone rock that has been left in the ocean for several years undisturbed. The foundation of live rock’s biodiversity is a key factor in preventing dino outbreaks. You will run the risk of a having a pest hitchhiker, but honestly in my experience these pests are less of a pain to deal with then dinos.

    Ocean Direct
    Maricultures Florida Live Rock

    An old school solution. Once cured, Dinos tend not to be an issue because of the great biodiversity contained in this rock.

    Click For Best Price

    For those people who are not able to procure live rock or have a sand bed, the other option would be to introduce microfauna and bacteria through an aquaculture facility like Indo Pacific Sea Farms. They have been around for many years and their live sand activator and wondermud are just the ticket for increasing biodiversity.

    Remove Overabundant Food Sources (AKA Your Invertebrates if an outbreak occurs)

    Snails encourage dinoflagellates to settle in and make your tank their home. Well, they don’t actually do it when they’re alive: a dead snail is a feast for a population of dinoflagellate. Dinos will wreck havoc on an invert population. Anything that attempts to eat it can be poisoned to death and the toxins they release will kill most inverts including microfauna like pods! Make sure you’re removing any dead snails, fish, and corals from the tank.

    Because it’s hard to tell if your snails are alive, the most foolproof way to prevent that is by removing the snails altogether. Once your dino problem is under control, they can be returned to the tank. 

    Balance Tank Nutrients

    A couple of specific nutrient-related things you can monitor and manage in your tank are:

    • Magnesium: levels should be somewhere in the 1400-1600ppm range
    • pH levels (as mentioned above)
    • Bacteria: introducing new bacteria to your tank will deprive dinos of nutrients. Live Rock and Live Sand are your best friends to maintain biodiversity!!!
    • Nitrates – Work on getting these above 0 and maintaining it. A little bit of nitrates is good for your tank
    • Phosphates – Don’t let your phosphates hit 0ย 

    Don’t Create an Undernourished Environment

    A tank that is starved for nutrition can cause a dino population to pop up too. Usually this situation comes about when you make some major change to the landscape or population of your tank, and the food shortage is abrupt. Dinos don’t actually need that much physical food to eat, especially since most are also photosynthetic. So, if other bacteria or phytoplankton in your tank die out from lack of nutrients, it removes the dinoflagellate’s primary competition and gives them room to thrive.

    Wrapping Up

    Quality equipment planning and setup is important for the overall health of your tank, whether it’s a 10 gallon aquarium or a 100-gallon aquarium. While there are several factors that help dinoflagellates take over, a poor setup and controlling parameters tops the list.

    When dying, dinoflagellates release toxins into your water. So, it’s essential to purify the water consistently, both during and after your dinoflagellate infestation.

    Here Is a Wrap Up To Close Down This Post: 

    Biodiversity Is Your Friend!

    Don’t be scared to get live rock or add live sand activators in your tank

    Having Nitrates and Phosphates Is Good!

    Having Nitrates and Phosphates is good – our hobby has spent years demonizing this. This has lead to tank setups way overbuilt from the start and completely sterile start systems. This extreme approach has lead to more and more dino cases over time!

    Dinos Require a Multi-Prong Approach

    Dinos are tough to deal with. Use the recommended techniques mentioned in this post to fight them off and understand this is a intense battle.

    Test Your Water Parameters!

    Regularly test your water’s nutrients – nitrates & phosphate and understand the nutrient consumption on your tank. Modern reefs these days can strip nutrients completely clean and may require dosing of nitrates and phosphates to stay at a healthy level. Knowing your consumption puts you in control of your reef tank! Use a reliable quality test kit to monitor your levels and get in the habit of testing regulary.  

    However you choose to combat your dinoflagellates, know you’re not alone. Just about every modern aquarium enthusiast has done battle with the brown menace. There is hope: you just need to be consistent and patient in your approach killing them off.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Royal Gramma – How To Take Care Of Your Purple and Yellow Fish

    Royal Gramma – How To Take Care Of Your Purple and Yellow Fish

    The royal gramma is one of the best reef fish for beginners in my opinion โ€” stunning coloration, relatively peaceful, and hardy enough to forgive minor husbandry mistakes. I’ve kept one in my 125-gallon reef and it’s consistently one of the fish guests comment on first. Here’s what you need to know before adding one.

    Are you planning on adding a Royal Gramma Basslet to your reef tank? This fish is striking with its purple and yellow body, but it’s important to learn how to take care of them before adding one to your tank. In this blog post, we’ll discuss the requirements for keeping a Royal Gramma healthy and happy in your saltwater aquarium.

    About the Royal Gramma

    The Royal Gramma has been a mainstay in many reef tanks for many years. Its scientific name is Gramma loreto. It is also known as the Fairy Basslet. It hails from the Caribbean. This fish really packs it all. They work in most saltwater aquariums due to their compact size, they are very hardy, and generally very peaceful. 

    Species Overview

    Below are the main stats and facts for the Royal Gramma fish:

    Scientific NameGramma Loreto
    Common Name (Species)Royal Gramma
    FamilyGrammatidae
    OriginFlorida, South America, West Atlantic Ocean
    DietCarnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive
    LifespanAt least 5 years
    TempermentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Size3 inches
    Minimum Tank Size30 Gallons
    Temperature Range73 โ€“ 81 Degrees F
    pH Range8.1 โ€“ 8.4
    Filtration/Flow RateAll
    Water TypeSaltwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, Difficult to breed
    CompatibilitySemi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks?Yes
    Ok, For Inverts?Mostly Yes

    What Does This Fish Look Like?

    Royall Gramma Fish

    The main attraction with the Royal Gramma Basslet are their colors. There really are few fish that really have this assortment of vibrant colors at this size. The front half of its body is purple with black strips across the eyes and the back half is yellow. They are usually a lone species in a saltwater aquarium because they are known to be aggressive to any fish that looks similar to it and males Royal Gramma will fight among themselves. If there is a lone male in the tank, it is possible for the group to form a harem, but it is difficult to sex them. Due to their size and temperament, they make good candidates for nano reef tanks.

    If you are looking at trying to have a pair or harem, the best way to attempt this would be to buy 2 immature royal grammas ensuring that one is slightly bigger then the other. What hopefully will happen is the larger fish will become the male. This has also been attempted with a group of immature grammas where the top two in the pecking order are kept and paired up. The remaining Royal Grammas are then returned to the fish store or traded to other hobbyists.

    Tank Requirements

    Royal gramma are very versatile fish. They can be small in both small tanks and large tanks. Ideally, you want them in no small then a 30 gallon saltwater aquarium. This gives them enough room to feel comfortable and will not make them hyper aggressive – a common issue with any territorial fish when placed in an aquarium that is too small.

    One of the more amusing characteristics of this species is its propensity to orient itself with its belly toward any nearby hard surface, whether it happens to be the floor, wall, or ceiling of its cave. So, itโ€™s not unusualโ€”or any cause for alarmโ€”to see a royal gramma specimen positioned completely upside down or on its side within its rocky refuge. While it looks odd, it’s just your gramma being a gramma.

    Grammas are known jumpers. Jumping is usually caused by stress and Royal Grammas generally are really good about handling stress. They are not as risky as say a firefish, but it would not hurt to have a cover on your tank for preventative measures. Many reef tanks owners like to use a mesh cover instead of a hard glass lid to have the benefit of gas exchange.

    These fish do well with lots of hiding places. You will want a setup with lots of rocks and caves. They tend to jump in and out of caves. They will not be out of the open as much as say clownfish. They are very hardy fish. They may hide when first introduced and some are just skittish in nature. The more hiding places you have for them the better. They do best in fish only with live rock or reef tank environments.

    Temperament

    Royal gramma’s temperament can either be described as reclusive or bold depending on the personality of the fish. Usually in an aquarium, you will see them darting from cave to cave. They will stick to the rocks and will not be seen in the open unless they are feeding (video source).

    They tend to be territorial fish and will try to chase away any fish that tries to come into their caves, but generally most fish will have a more aggressive temperature. They will not try to pick a fight with another fish (unless it looks like them). Usually their aggression is to just to defend their territory, but they will yield to a more aggressive fish. Fish like Angelfish and Clownfish will pick them a little, but the conflict will resolve itself once the more dominant fish asserts its position in the tank.

    They will generally get along with virtually all fish in a reef tank. Your main concern with Royal Grammas is a fish might be too aggressive or try to eat it given its small size. You will also want to avoid any fish that looks like it – like fire fish.

    Diet

    They will eat nearly any type of food offered to them and do not get large with the max size usually being around 3″. They are considered an aggressive eater often dashing in and out to grab food. You don’t need to worry about it getting enough food in the tank as they compete for food well. They prefer meaty foods. With most saltwater fish, frozen food is going to be the best choice for diet. Frozen food is unfortunately hard to find online due to shipping costs. I would recommend you shop at your specialty fish store to get frozen food for your Royal Gramma fish. 

    The best frozen food for this fairy basslet are going to be LRS Food’s Reef Frenzy nano. You will only be able to pick this up at specialty fish stores. The next choice would be common frozen food you can find at a general pet store. Mysis shrimp would be the best choice for a staple. You can use Selcon to add vitamins to your frozen mysis shrimp to add more nutritional value to your Royal Gramma’s diet.

    Selcon

    A vitamin enhancer that works great in freeze dried and frozen foods. A great choice to boost nutrition in brine shrimp, mysis, and blackworms

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    Tank Mates

    Gramma loreto is more bark than bite in the aquarium. They will try to assert themselves, but will often times be settled down by more aggressive tankmates like clownfish, angelfish, and tangs. Given that a Royal Gramma is on the lower end of the semi-aggressive scale, they are best near the beginning of your livestock additions since they will not harass most saltwater fish to death.

    They are incompatible with other similar looking fish like firefish. Any large predatory fish that can fit them in their mouths like lionfish are completely off limits.  

    Are They Reef Safe?

    I am different from other bloggers and live fish sellers in that I separate what is “reef safe” into two categories. Reef safe for corals and reef safe for inverts. This allows you to make an informed decision of what you would like in your saltwater reef tank.

    A Royal Gramma Basslet in your reef tank will be a model citizen. They are just about as reef safe as you can get. They are both reef safe for corals and for inverts. I have personally never heard of them ever bothering corals or nipping at them. They do not dig or disturb rock work or substrates.

    Regarding inverts, the Royal Gramma is very well behaved. They get along with nearly any type of invertebrate in the aquarium. Gramma loreto is a perfect fish for any reef aquarium.

    Are They Available As Tank Bred?

    Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a Royal Gramma that is tank bred. This is primarily due to the availability of wild Grammas near the United States and being relatively cheap to import. Grammas are abundant and cheap to purchase at any online or local fish store. Successfully breeding Royal Grammas is also difficult. While they are easy to get to spawn, it is difficult to rear and grow out the larvae and juveniles.

    Outside of the US, there are efforts to tank breed them. One such location is Australia. In Australia, it is not uncommon for a Royal Gramma fish to cost as much as $120 compared to usually less than $20 in the US. Reef Keepers reported that successful breeding programs are underway with captive Grammas likely to be available this year. As Royal Gramma care for fry improve, I would expect us to see tank breed fish come into the supply chain at some point in the future.

    FAQs

    Is This Fish Reef Safe?

    Yes – a Royal Gramma is one of the most reef safe fish you put in your aquarium. They will not eat corals and generally will leave more inverts like shrimp and crabs alone. They will adapt to virtually any community reef tank.

    How Long Does it Live?

    Generally, you can expect your Royal Gramma to live over 5 years. There have been reports with other advanced reefers who have kept Royal Grammas for over 10 years! The better the environment and diet for your fish, the longer it will potentially live. This is very much true in saltwater fish as many have lived well beyond their expected life cycles in captive environments such as public aquariums.

    Are They Jumpers?

    Yes, Royal Grammas are at risk for jumping out of a tank. The best way to prevent them from jumping is to cover your aquarium either with a lid or a mesh net. The mesh is preferable as it will still allow for gas exchange and will not harm your fish as much as a glass lid in the event of an attempted jump.

    Are They Hardy?

    Yes, a Royal Gramma is one of the most hardy saltwater fish you can purchase in the hobby. While they are not available as tank bred at the moment, they are far more hardier than many wild caught counterparts in the hobby. Their small size also make them ideal for beginners.

    Are They Peaceful?

    The Royal Gramma, like more saltwater fish are semi-aggressive and territorial. They will defend their territory and try to attack fish who look like them. That being said, they are one of the least aggressive semi-aggressive fish you can purchase. Most fish like Clownfish, Tangs, and Angelfish will beat them out on aggression. Grammas will mellow out in the presence of these fish. You can say their bark is bigger than their bite!

    Do You Have Experience With These Fish?

    Let us know your experience with the Royal Gramma Basslet in the comments below. We love hearing everyone’s personal experience and tank stories.

  • Jaguar Cichlid – Everything You Need To Know About Care

    Jaguar Cichlid – Everything You Need To Know About Care

    Jaguar cichlids are one of the most impressive large cichlids in the freshwater hobby โ€” but they demand respect. I’ve kept large aggressive cichlids for years and the pattern is always the same: beginners underestimate tank size requirements and tankmate compatibility, and end up with a specimen that rules the tank alone. If you go in with realistic expectations and the right setup, a jaguar cichlid is an extraordinary fish to keep.

    Having a pet is one of the best things, especially if that pet is a fish. A Jaguar Cichlid is a silent, beautiful fish, and some of them are great for pest control. Although it might seem like fish are easy to care for, there are a lot of species which require a lot of attention as well as special food or tanks.

    In this article, we are going to talk about an interesting fish species: the jaguar cichlid. Here you can find out everything you need to know about these species including its compatibility with other fish. Itโ€™s good to know that jaguar cichlids canโ€™t be put in a tank with Tetra or Angel Fish. They are large and aggressive fish. They are known as “tank busters” among predator enthusiasts as they can crack smaller tanks with their aggressive antics.  

    An Overview on the Jaguar Cichlid

    Scientific NameParachromis managuensis
    Common NamesManaguense cichlid, managua cichlid, guaptoe tigre, Aztec cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginCentral America
    DietCarnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan15 years
    TemperamentAggressive
    Tank LevelMiddle or bottom half
    Minimum Tank Size70 gallon
    Water Temperature Range73ยฐ- 82ยฐF (23ยฐ- 28ยฐC)
    Water Hardness10 to 15 dGH
    pH Range7.0 โ€“ 8.2
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to strong
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityAggressive tanks only
    OK, for Planted Tanks?No, will dig up and damage most plants

    General Information about the Jaguar Cichlid

    The Jaguar Cichlid, scientifically known as parachromis managuesis (and also known as the Managuense cichlid), is a large species of Cichlid. They are originally from Central America and can be found from Costa Rica to Honduras. Unlike most fish tropical fish, this species is bigger, and it can grow to up to 24 inches! These are highly predatory fish, and this is why it can be difficult to find the right tank mate. The jaguar cichlid is very valuable for it’s looks. It is one of the more beautiful, larger, and aggressive Cichlids from Central America that you can purchase.

    Size and Looks

    The Managuense jaguar cichlid is a big, elongated freshwater fish. Itโ€™s flat from sides and it has an oval body. Its appearance shows that itโ€™s a raptorial feeder which has adapted to aggressive assaults. These fish have different sizes when they live in captivity. For instance, a wild jaguar cichlid can reach 60 cm and it can weigh about 7 kg. Here is a video by Mrlilchilly1 showing a full grown Jaguar Cichlid in action.

    Unlike the ones living in the wild, jaguar cichlids that lives in captivity grow to about 35 cm in length. The Parachromis managuensis females can only reach 30 cm and they weigh about 3 kg. These are some of the biggest fish which can be put in a tank and kept as a pet.

    The color of the Jaguar Cichlid is silvery with spots of brown and black. Its color pattern resembles the one of a jaguar, as its name states. An interesting fact about their color pattern is that itโ€™s almost impossible to find two jaguar cichlids with the same body spots. This species also presents a big head with a large mouth and big lips. They have pharyngeal teeth which help them hunt.

    Male vs. Female Differences

    A male Jaguar Cichlid is larger and will have more vertical broken bars when young. These bars will disappear once the male reaches maturity. A female Parachromis managuesis on the other hand, will have thinner vertical bars and will have a more pronounced dark bars and have more reddish coloration on their gill covers. Juvenile fish are readily available at fish stores and online. These Cichlids get more expensive and harder to find the larger they are.

    Having Them in a tank

    Parachromis managuensis

    There are some important things to keep in mind when you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet. For instance, these fish canโ€™t share a tank with a lot of species. In order to accommodate the cichlid and the other tankmates, you need to have a tank with aggressive fish. Also, you need to have large fish so that they wonโ€™t get hurt or eaten by the jaguar cichlid.

    Itโ€™s best to pair the jaguar cichlid with other cichlids like the Red Devil, Texas, or the Midas cichlid. These species are territorial to aggressive which means they are able to hold their own. Aggressiveness is best handled by additional tank space. Keeping your aggressive fish full will also curb aggressive. Hungry and cramped fish will get aggressive with their tank mates fighting for valuable territory. These large predatory fish mentioned will also enjoy the same foods. You will not have to worry about feeding them separately. Be sure to spread out food among each fish’s establish territory to avoid bricking and to ensure everyone gets fed. 

    Another important thing to consider before purchasing Parachromis managuensis is the tank. In this case, you will need an aquarium tank with a capacity of at least 100 gallons of water. The decorations of the tank should be big and bulky like rocks. Donโ€™t put plants in their tank because this Cichlid will destroy them in no time. A good starter tank for a fish this size is a 125 gallon tank. This is a 6 foot long tank with enough width and depth to support a Cichlid of this size and still have room for other inhabitants.

    You will need to put a substrate for the bottom of the tank that is made of large grained gravel and add some middle-sized grains. Maintain the water in the tank at a temperature of 24-25 C. Also, the pH of the water should be around 7 for optimal results.

    Breeding

    The jaguar cichlids have been bred in tanks for a long time. However, there are a few rules to follow when it comes to this species. The best way to help them breed is to make sure that you put 2 or 3 pairs of jaguar cichlids together in a tank when they are juvenile. If you try to put a new female or a new male when you have adult fish. You will risk losing these additions due to the jaguar cichlid’s territorial nature. This is a bigger risk if you your fish is actively breeding. 

    If you have an actively breeding couple, consider moving them to a different tank so that the breeding process goes smoothly. This tank should have at least 50 gallons (or 200 liters of water). Cichlids in general are great parents and are a joy to watch their fry raising process. It can be a real threat to share this experience with your family.

    Feeding

    As we mentioned earlier, this freshwater fish is a carnivore and a raptorial which means they enjoy various types of live fish. They can also eat cut up fish or crayfish and dry foods. The jaguar cichlid prefers food like earthworms, crickets and tadpoles. Remember to feed them only once a day because they tend to eat too much. Frozen food is also a good food staple to provide, through can get expensive given how much these fish need to eat at their adult size. Also, experts recommend a fasting the jaguar cichlid once a week.

    These fish can also eat small reptiles, larva, or goldfish. However, itโ€™s strictly prohibited to give these species warm-blooded meat like beef, pork or poultry. This type of meat has a lot of fat and it can affect the health of your cichlid.

    Care

    While it is a bit hard to find the right tankmates for this big and aggressive fish, itโ€™s quite easy to care for them. These are hardy fish that will tolerate a variety of conditions.

    Saying that however, one of the most important things is to keep the tank water clean. Large tanks are necessary for these big species. Apart from the large tank you will need to have canister filter or a sump filter to help you clean the water.

    Remember to change about 30% of the water in the tank once or twice a week. Due to the fact that the aquariums are closed systems the phosphates and nitrates tend to build up in time. This makes the water hardness increase. Despite the fact that this species is aggressive, they are very sensitive to pH instability. If you oversize your filtration you may be able to get away with less water changes, but also monitor your nutrient levels with proper aquarium test kits.

    Itโ€™s also recommended to use external tank equipment that can clean the water. Because of their large size and aggressive style, the jaguar cichlid can damage any internal filter or heater. Titanium heaters are recommended when you house fish as large and aggressive as these. Titanium heaters can take a beating and not crack or break. You should also avoid any decorations that can easily be moved or tossed around. Apart from these minor problems, jaguar cichlids are easy to care for.

    Diseases that Affect Them

    Unfortunately, fish are prone to infections and disease, especially predatory fish like the cichlid. Infections are common with predatory fish due to fighting as wounded can get infect. For parasites, one of the most common diseases is Ich. This can be treated by simply raising the temperature to 86 degrees Fahrenheit for about 3 days. In case this doesnโ€™t work, you will need to treat the pet with copper. Remember to be careful when you add a new decoration or a new fish to the tank because it could be infected with disease. Stress from aggression can also bring about disease if the fish is carrying the disease. Stress will compromises a fish’s immune system, which will lead to an outbreak.

    FAQs

    How Aggressive are they?

    Jaguar cichlids are very aggressive fish. They are territorial and will attempt to eat any fish they can fit in their mouths. Because of their territorial nature, they will attempt to fight any fish that comes near their territory. Due to their size and most aquariums sizes, this will mean they will fight any fish you place in your tank.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Jaguar cichlids can get up to 24 inches in length, but most will end up around 16-18 inches. Males will typically be larger than the females and they will get more aggressive as they get older and more established in a tank.

    What Fish Can Go With A This Type of Fish?

    The best tank mate for a Jaguar cichlid is another Jaguar cichlid — as a breeding pair. Note that a bonded pair will be very aggressive, especially once they start breeding. Other species you can consider if you have the space would be large cichlids like Red Devils, Green Terrors, and Oscars. You can also consider large catfish.

    Can They Live With an Oscar?

    Yes, they can be compatible if you have the space for them to work out their territory issues. It is best to attempt this pairing when you have more experience. If you are attempting to house them together, consider a single Jaguar with an Oscar. Preferably, try a female Jaguar over a male when pairing.

    Conclusion

    These are some of the most important things you should know about this amazing freshwater species. If you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet you need to be careful with the tank capacity and the pH of the water. Apart from that just feed them once a day with worms or dry food and they will be fine. Also, donโ€™t put them in tanks with smaller fish because the jaguar can kill or eat them.

    Got any additional questions about the Jaguar cichlid? If so, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation!. Let us know what aggressive fish you have been able to pair with this monster fish!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Algae Scrubber Vs The World (Algae Reactor, Biopellets, GFO, Cheato, Fuges)

    Algae Scrubber Vs The World (Algae Reactor, Biopellets, GFO, Cheato, Fuges)

    Nutrient export is one of the most debated topics in reef keeping, and I’ve experimented with most of the major methods in my 125-gallon over the years โ€” GFO reactors, biopellets, refugiums with chaeto, and algae scrubbers. Each has a real place depending on your system’s bioload and your maintenance preferences. This breakdown is based on what I’ve actually run, not just theory.

    Algae scrubbers are finally starting to pick up mainstream acceptance in the Reefkeeping community! As someone who has advocated Algae Turf Scrubbers, for many years it great to see them more widely accepted. There is still a lot of skepticism in the industry though and many store still push other products and solution. I created this article below so you can see the differences between an Algae Scrubber (AKA Algae Turf Scrubber) and other solutions like there. There will be affiliate links in this article as a quick disclosure where I may make a commission should you make a purchase from the link at no charge to you. Let’s get started.

    Algae Scrubber vs. Algae Blocker

    Ah the Algae blocker. This is a very common solution you will hear about at your Local Fish Store (LFS) when a customer comes in with an algae problem. I think of these as the diet pill solution to nuisance algae in the industry. 

    What is a blocker?

    Algae Blocker

    An algae blocker is a chemical product that will work to remove nuisance algae in the aquarium. The most well known algae blocker is Boyd Enterprises Chem Clean who sells a Cyano blocker. The industry has gotten really good over the years and have created reef safe solutions that will remove algae, but will not harm inverts and corals.

    Why is this better than the Blockers?

    An algae blocker’s purpose is to quickly remove algae, but it is not an end all solution. They really are meant to wipe out nuisance algae after the long-term problem is treated – usually a poor water source or bad aquarium housekeeping. They become expensive to use long-term. 

    An Algae Scrubber on the other hand, is a natural solution to nuisance algae. The algae you grow in the scrubber sucks up the nutrients that feed other forms of algae, and the algae is keep in one spot where you can remove it. Scrubbers are always a long-term investment in the aquarium as they do not need ongoing filters or replacement parts.

    Is The Reactor Different?

    Algae reactors have been commercialized recently with the raise of Algae Scrubbers. 

    What is a reactor?

    Algae Reactor

    An algae reactor is a self container container that grows macro algae like cheato. They are pretty complex units, with a reactor chamber, pump, and lighting all functioning in the unit.

    The biggest advantage to an algae reactor is ease of use and simplicity. While an Algae Reactor has a comprehensive unit, an algae scrubber has simple individual parts. This means that if one part breaks, it is easier to fix vs having to buy another unit.

    Biopellets

    Biopellets have been a solution for denitrification for years

    What is a Biopellet Reactor?

    Biopellet Reactor

    Biopellets themselves are a polymer that is made up of bacteria. They are meant to be a supplement to the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium. The main draw is these biopellets will remove nitrates. They require a reactor so you can efficiently work the materiel and cultivate the bacteria.

    What is better than Biopellets?

    Biopellets can be tricky to dial in and can actually strip too many nutrients in your tank. Stability of the operation is there biggest issue. You also still need to address phosphates requiring another equipment solution. An algae scrubber handles both nitrates and phosphates and are easier to operate once they are broken in.

    Cheato

    Cheato was the first acceptance of using algae to control nutrients in an aquarium

    What is Cheato?

    Cheato

    Cheato is single celled macro algae that is simple to grow and easy to place in a sump. It is one of the easiest and simpliest ways to control nutrients in a tank

    Which is better than Cheato?

    The main advantage you will get from a scrubber is surface area growth. Scrubbers have the ability to grow more nutrient absorbing algae in a concentrated space then cheato. You need a lot of cheato to control nutrients and you need the space in your sump to do it. The major downfall is the risk of pests and disease from Cheato. Yes, that is correct Cheato can bring over a number of pests and diseases. Unless you Quarantine your Cheato (very few people do this) or you get your Cheato from a source that guarantees clean Cheato (like Algaebarn), it is always a risk. With an Algae Turf scrubber, you are growing your own algae from your own tank. You are in full control of what comes in and out through your introduction procedures with your fish, inverts, and corals.

    But other than that cheato is and will always be a cheap and go solution for nutrient control. It is algae after all and a natural way of removing nutrients in the aquarium.

    Denitrator

    Denitrators were a solution to aquariums for many years until other products like Zeovit and Biopellets came about.

    What is a Denitrator?

    Denitrator

    A denitrator is a piece of equipment that has been used in wastewater treatment plants and public aquariums for years. Denitrators are the solution to using a traditional media bag in the sump which is harder to manage optimally. A denitrator pieces the media in a chamber where the water can properly react to it resulting in consumption of nitrates.

    Which is better than a Denitrator?

    A denitrator system and a built algae scrubber equipment wise are around the same price. The main advantage you will get with an algae scrubber is you will not need to replace your media and the parts are easier to replace. The other advantage that an algae scrubber will have is that it will remove phosphates while the denitrator will only remove nitrates. You will need to invest in other equipment to control phosphates.

    GFO (AKA Phosban)

    GFO is a common media used in saltwater aquariums. Phosban is the big name brand that sells GFO.

    What is GFO?

    GFO Media Reactor

    Granular Ferric Oxide or GFO is media that is used in an aquarium to remove phosphates. It is also used to remove heavy metals and other toxins in the aquarium. Generally, GFO is placed in a reactor for optimal use. 

    Which is better than GFO?

    Investing in a GFO system will incurring recurring costs as the media will need to be replaced every 1-2 months. GFO also does not remove nitrates, meaning you will need another piece of equipment or solution to remove nitrates from your aquarium. An algae scrubber will remove both phosphates and nitrates and will not incur recurring costs.

    Refugium

    For reefers who have a sump, it is very common for them to have a flex space that is used to create a Refugium.

    What is a Refugium?

    Refugium Sump

    A refugium is usually a section in a sump that is reserved to in order to provide a place for certain organisms to survive. In general, these would be organisms like copepods, macroalgae, and certain inverts.

    Why is this better than a Refugium?

    A refugium is also usually used to grow macroalgae for nutrient control and be a place to grow copepods. An Algae Scrubber is actually great at both. It grows algae like crazy and copepods thrive inside the mesh of the scrubber. It is very common when you clean an algae scrubber that you can remove hundreds of amphipod and copepods from the scrubber. No other piece of equipment does a better job at growing them. This allows you to do more in the flex space of your sump. 

    Zeovit

    Zeovit is a nutrient free solution that is touted in the reef aquarium industry.

    What is a Zeovit System?

    Zeovit System

    Zeovit is a system that produces an ultra low nurtrient system. It utilizes bacteria to eliminate nutrients at the initial source –  Ammonia. 

    Why is an this better than a Zeovit system?

    Zeovit systems are pretty complicated to setup and expensive. It is not a cookie cutter system and every system is different. Dosage and product needed for your system will differ. An algae scrubber on the other hand, is all about simplicity. It is easy to setup, easy to clean, and easy to get results.

    Zeovit is really a product of the saltwater aquarium industry, which loves to market the latest and and greatest high-tech toys and solutions to hobbyists. It is a great product, as long as you can dial it in, but overly complex. 

    Natural and Simple

    An algae scrubber is natural and simple and nature is not a solution that is going to be outdated or obsolete. Always do your research regardless of what you end up purchasing. Let us know your experience with equipment or any questions in the comments.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.