Tag: Fishkeeping

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins and Habitat
• What Do They Look Like?
• How Big are They?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What Are Good Tank Mates?
• What Do They Eat?
• Celestial Pearl Danio Care Guide
• Water Quality
• Breeding
• Health and Disease
• Where to Buy?
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Is the Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm Right for You?
• How the Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm Compares to Similar Species
• Closing Thoughts

The Celestial Pearl Danio is one of the most beautiful nano fish in the hobby, but it is also one of the most overhyped. Males are aggressive toward each other and will fight in small tanks. Females get harassed relentlessly without enough cover. This species needs a densely planted tank with more females than males, or the aggression becomes the only thing you notice.

The galaxy rasbora brought celestial beauty and terrestrial aggression to nano tanks everywhere.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm

The most common mistake I see with celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storms is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storms look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters.

Species Overview

Classification

Origins and Habitat

The world first came to know of the celestial pearl danio in 2006, when a man called Kamphol Udomritthiruj discovered the fish in a plant-filled pond in a mountainous area near Hopong, east of Inle Lake, in Myanmar. He shared a photo of the fish on a Singaporean fishkeeping forum, and the rest is history¹.

The ponds, which are the natural habitat of the galaxy rasbora, are heavily vegetated. They are located in a place consisting mainly of rice paddies and grasslands, which receive a lot of sun exposure. This is what leads to the fast growth of aquatic plants in the ponds, which make the celestial pearl danios’ home.

Since that time, this species of fish has not been found in any other area. But unsurprisingly, this species has proliferated in the aquarium trade despite that. One look at it, and you’ll understand the reason behind their popularity.

Now, when the fish was first found, the genus they belonged to was contested. But aquarium traders needed to market the beautiful new celestial pearl danio, and doing this meant guessing their place in the world of cyprinidae. That’s how they came to acquire the common name of galaxy rasbora.

In 2007, a new genus was created solely for the celestial pearl danio by Tyson R. Roberts, a scientist with the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.

So, even though the name “galaxy rasbora” is still widely used to refer to this fish, it’s something of a misnomer, as it was discovered by Roberts that these little guys are more closely related to the danios than to the rasboras.

What Do They Look Like?

Before they were Danio margaritatus, these vibrant little nano fish were given the scientific name of Celestichthys margaritatus. “Celestichthys,” from the Greek and Latin, is “heavenly fish” translated. Meanwhile, “margaritatus” translates to “adorned with pearls.”

Heavenly fish adorned with pearls. That’s a pretty good place to start if you want to guess at the appearance of the Danio margaritatus.

These are some of the smallest fish in the aquarium trade, not measuring more than 1.5 inches. They are vividly colored fish, with a base coloration of deep midnight blue.

They are covered all over with bright yellow/white spots responsible for the galaxy-like pattern that gives them their name. Their bellies will take on an orange coloration.

The fins of the celestial pearl danio, meanwhile, have a prominent shape and size. A tall dorsal fin protrudes from the lower third of the body of the fish. The anal and pelvic fins are wide.

The fins will have a red or deep orange color which contrast gorgeously with the rest of their body. You’ll also see dual black lines and a few transparent parts on all the fins of the fish.

The sexual dimorphism of the celestial pearl danio means that it’s possible to identify their sex. Males will have a thinner shape and a brighter coloring than females. Meanwhile, the coloring of females can be more accurately categorized as golden blue than dark blue.

How Big are They?

When it is fully developed and sexually matured. Which takes about 3 months. The celestial pearl danio has an adult size of 1 inch in length. They can get as large as 1.5 inches.

This small body is why they are classified as a nano fish. They do best in large groups. Females and males differ slightly in size, with females being slightly larger.

How Long Do They Live?

In captivity, with appropriate conditions ensured, the average celestial pearl danio can be expected to live at least 3 years, and a maximum of 5 years. Like many other freshwater fish, celestial pearls respond poorly to stress and inadequate or unstable water conditions. Proper care, diet, and a low stress environment will contribute to a longer lifespan.

Temperament and Activity Level

Galaxy rasboras are mostly quiet, peaceful fish who love to swim together in groups, and they are curious explorers as well. Although they are not schooling fish as many wrongly think of them, celestial pearl danios are certainly very social, and you should aim to have at least 6-7 of these beauties in one tank.

When they all swim together, it creates a wavering, textured effect inside the aquarium that is truly awesome to behold. However, once they start getting used to their tank, they like spending time apart from the group as well.

The only concern when it comes to the behavior or temperament of the galaxy rasbora is related to their sex. It’s important to tell male and female pearl danios apart because a large number of males might cause a problem.

This is because males constantly battle over females, which unfortunately results in injury or, in the worst cases, even death. As such, you should keep fewer male CPDs in your aquarium than females.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

The best tank mates for a CPD are others of their kind. You should aim to keep at least 5-7 of these fish in the tank as they are a social species that love swimming together.

We stress once again that it’s very important to keep the number of female fishes higher than males, as having too many of the latter may lead to infighting for dominance.

Owing to their size, the celestial pearl danio also does well in nano tanks with other peaceful fish of the same size, such as guppies and neon tetras.

In fact, if you feel that your CPDs are much too shy or timid, introducing other fish might help them to feel more confident. In that way, suitable tank mates are a crucial part of celestial pearl danio care.

Given that galaxy rasboras like to occupy the middle of the tank, we recommend filling the tank with other species who stay near the top.

Good Tank Mates

With the above conditions in mind, the following make great tank mates for these danios:

• Tetras (regular, ember or green)
• Gouramis
• Cory Catfish
• Guppies
• Molly Fish
• Killifish
• Endler’s livebearer
• Amano Shrimp
• Cherry Shrimp

You will notice that all of these species are small, just like the galaxy rasbora. Remember, if you decide to place so many small fish together, you have to make adjustments to the aquarium size accordingly. Small fish like this also lend well to planted tanks and aquascapes as the small size makes them a part of the scape versus the showcase. Most aquascapes are all about the design. The fish are a part of the piece so smaller fish work well with this style of aquarium keeping.

Fish Species to Avoid

It’s very important to choose only tank mates who are of the same size as your pearl danios. Even if they are peaceful, any fish significantly larger than celestial pearl danios might eat them. Not to mention, there will be competition for food.

You should absolutely avoid putting your galaxy rasboras in with any aggressive fish, such as oscars, cichlids, or Jack dempseys. These fish will happily snack on and eat your prized Danios.

Other fish who may not eat them, may be bothered by the dithering nature of these fish. Slow moving fish like Betta Fish often clash with Danios due to their nature. They also don’t compete well for food.

What Do They Eat?

As they are omnivores, celestial pearls will eat almost anything in the wild. They usually love plants and algae as well as zooplankton and might consume small invertebraes for protein.

In captivity, they take well to diets of pellets and flakes, but these should be of high quality. Not to mention, the pellets/flakes should be small enough that they can fit easily in the tiny mouths of your pearl danios.

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They like eating at mid-tank levels, so try to choose pellets and flakes that won’t sink so easily.

What About Live Foods?

Celestial pearl danios will eat live food you give them, such as live baby brine shrimp, krill, daphnia, moina, white worms, and grindal worms. Frozen cyclops and frozen baby brine also make great snacks for them and help you to provide a balanced diet.

How Much and How Often to Feed?

CPDs should be fed 3 to 4 times a day, but you should make it a point to give them small amounts of food every time. This prevents overfeeding or food wastage and keeps the water quality clean.

It’s also important to cycle the food you give to your galaxy rasboras. This will ensure that they live longer and retain their vibrant coloring throughout their lives.

Something else you need to know about these little guys is that they are prone to stress. And when this happens, it will affect their eating habits.

So not only should you strive to ensure stress-free living conditions for your galaxy rasboras, you should also watch them closely when it’s feeding time. This will allow you to identify the picky or shy eaters as well as the more active ones and cater to their needs accordingly.

Celestial Pearl Danio Care Guide

CPDs are easy to care of, given that you ensure the best tank conditions for them. These little guys thrive in cold water and love to have plants to play around in. Here’s all you need to know about setting up a tank for your CPDs.

Tank Size

As we’ve already mentioned above, the minimum tank size for 5-7 celestial pearl danios is 10 gallons (so about 2 gallons per fish). This gives them the space they need to play or hide as they wish.

You’ll need to increase the aquarium size by an extra 10 gallons for every 5 of these fish you add. So if you have 30 CPDs, you’ll need a tank of at least 30 gallons.

Tank Setup

Here are the particulars of the CPD fish tank setup:

Plants

When you’re setting up a tank for these little fish, it’s of utmost importance that you include plants to mimic the heavy vegetation of their natural habitat. These not only give the fish plenty of playing and hiding places, they also make for good snacks and provide ample space for breeding (if that’s one of your aims).

In fact, the more variety you can create in your aquascaping endeavors, the better for these fish. CPDs absolutely love these environments. So don’t hold back. Include any and all plants you wish to or think would go well with your aquarium or your fish. Keeping healthy, stress-free CPDs is not possible without plants. If you want to make these easier for you consider low energy or beginner level plants.

Substrate

As with plants, you have a wide variety of options when it comes to the aquarium substrate. Although they like swimming about in the middle of the aquarium, they also frequently stay towards the tank’s bottom half. Since they don’t dig, however, you don’t have to worry about substrate size.

That said, your chosen substrate should complement the plants you choose to place in the tank. Dark fine sand is a good option here as it will allow your plants to thrive and flourish, which is a requirement for keeping your danio fish happy. Sandy substrate is also easy to clean, an added benefit.

Decor

You have free reign when it comes to choosing decor for these fish as well. CPDs love having adequate spaces to hide and play in, so make it a point to include natural decor like rocks and driftwood where your fish can relax and play.

Water Quality

As with any other freshwater fish, it’s of crucial importance to maintain good water quality for the health of your danio fish. Here’s what you should know:

Filtration

CPDs require strong filtration in their tanks. The biology of this fish is not able to handle too many pollutants in the water. Canister or power filters should work fine, although you should remember to block inlet tubes with sponges to prevent these tiny fish from getting sucked into them. They are very active fish and enjoy moving around the tank. A moderate flow will be healthy for them.

Water Parameters

The rich vegetation found in the shallow ponds which these little fish inhabit give the water a clean and pure quality with low mineral and salt levels . These are the conditions you should aim to recreate for your CPDs if you want them to be happy and stress-free.

These are the basic recommended water parameters for CPDs:

• Water Temperature: 72°F to 76°F
• pH: 6.5 to 7.5
• Water Hardness: 2. 10 dKH

Aquarium Maintenance

As you know by now, taking care of these aquarium fish is pretty easy, given that you ensure clean water for them. Try to also keep levels of nitrates and dissolved organics low. Make regular water changes.

Test Water Conditions

In order to ensure proper water conditions for your aquatic pets, no matter if they’re CPDs or other fish, we recommend investing in a quality water testing kit. If you want a well-kept aquarium with healthy fish, accurate readings should be your first priority.

Breeding

If you want to breed your CPDs, you’re in luck because they’re one of the easiest aquarium fish to breed.

In fact, males of this fish species spend a good chunk of their time just courting the females (which, as we mentioned above, can lead to fighting and injury/death), which makes this a species that is constantly spawning. Pretty much daily.

So, triggering the breeding process of this fish shouldn’t require much input from you; just make sure you give your fish a steady and nourishing amount of live food.

Are Your They Male or Female?

As we discussed above, identifying the sex of this danio species is easy due to the species’ sexual dimorphism. Although they are similarly sized, your female CPDs will have a rounder shape and a duller body color in comparison to the males.

When a female is ready to spawn, she should develop a darkly colored, swollen spot near her anal fin. If you need a visual aid on determined if your danio is male or female, check out this video by The Secret History Living In Your Aquarium.

The Mating Process

How do you know when your CPDs are ready to spawn? Well, aside from the fact that both males and females try to breed almost daily after reaching maturity (which takes 3-4 months at most), there are some markers in behavior.

Males will typically hover near a spawning mop or Java moss (whatever you provide for spawning), and when a female is nearby, males will shake and flare their fins to attract her.

Once a male has caught her attention, a female CPD will swim down to where he is in the aquarium and nudge his anal fin with her head. Then they will shake together, releasing the eggs and milt.

The Breeding Process

CPDs are egg layers. To lay her eggs, a female CPD will find a spot in the tank where there is low water flow. She will usually also choose a large plant leaf to lay the tiny eggs. More than 30 at a time. So you should provide that once again.

You have to be alert and present during this process because male CPDs do eat their mate’s eggs. So as soon as you see that the eggs have been laid, gently take them out and put them into a designated spawning tank.

This also means that if you don’t want too many CPDs just leave the eggs as they are. They will be eaten by their dads and disappear from the aquarium.

After Breeding

Once they’re in the spawning tank, the eggs will take up to 2-4 days to incubate, after which you will see tiny fry beginning to hatch.

During this time, you should feed them micro foods. As they grow older and you move them into the main CPD tank, you can introduce them to live foods such as small worms and baby brine shrimp as well as flakes and pellets.  

Health and Disease

CPDs are not as prone to disease as other freshwater fish who are harder to care for. Nor have any diseases been discovered which are exclusive to CPDs.

That said, they are still prone to being afflicted by common freshwater diseases.

Signs of Health

A healthy CPD, although shy and fond of hiding at times, is a pretty social fish. He or she will spend a lot of time swimming in groups and playing a little bit. As eager breeders, CPDs also spawn almost every day.

Common Health Issues and Treatment

Fin rot, in particular, is noticeable in these fish. As with any other fish, this freshwater disease can be identified by visual markers on the edges of the fish’s fins. If the edges of the fins look discolored or frail, as if it’s disintegrating, you can assume fin rot has taken a hold.

Fin rot can be caused by a number of factors, the most common being poor water quality. However, it can be easily avoided if you constantly monitor pH levels with a good water testing kit.

Fighting is another cause of fin rot. You can prevent your CPDs by fighting by ensuring a low male-to-female ratio in the aquarium. The more males there are, the higher the level of aggression and competition will be, leading to injurious fighting.

If you do suspect fin rot, try to restore optimal water conditions as soon as possible. Then you can use antibacterial medications to treat the condition. The fins should begin to grow back.

Where to Buy?

Compared to other freshwater aquarium fish, CPDs do are more expensive, sometimes going up to $15 to $20 for just one fish. However, since they are active breeders, they’re not too hard to find in a well-stocked aquarium shop. You can also find them being sold online, but be careful and do your research.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm Right for You?

Before you add a celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storm to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storms need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storm is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storm stacks up against some common alternatives.

Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm vs. Ember Tetra: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storm and ember tetra share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Ember Tetra care guide for a detailed breakdown.

Celestial Pearl Danio The Galaxy Fish That Took the Hobby by Storm vs. Cherry Barb: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The celestial pearl danio the galaxy fish that took the hobby by storm and cherry barb share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Cherry Barb care guide for a detailed breakdown.

Closing Thoughts

Every nano fishkeeper wants Celestial Pearl Danios until they find out the males wage war in small tanks.

The breathtaking beauty and shy nature of CPDs make them a popular choice for aquarists interested in nano fish and dither fish. A group of CPDs makes a great addition to any large, well-planted freshwater community tank, given they don’t have any aggressive tank mates.

Celestial pearl danios reward the keeper who builds around them – dark substrate, dense planting, low light, and a large enough group that males are competing rather than hiding. Get those elements right and the metallic pearl spotting and deep red fins are genuinely stunning. Get them wrong and you have stressed fish that bleach out and stay behind the filter.

This article is part of our Rasbora Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

Recommended Video

Check out our danio video where we cover the most popular danios in the hobby:

This guide is part of our Rasboras & Danios: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular rasbora and danio species.

Table of Contents

• A Brief Overview of Black Skirt Tetra
• Classification
• Origins and Habitat
• What Does a Black Skirt Tetra Look Like?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Are They Hardy?
• How Do You Tell Male or Female?
• Can They Live Alone?
• What Fish Are Good Tank Mates?
• How Many Should Be Kept Together?
• What Do They Eat?
• Tank Requirements and Care
• How to Set Up Your Fish Tank
• How to Breed
• Is It Right for You?
• Frequently Asked Questions
• What It Is Actually Like Living With Black Skirt Tetra
• Species Comparison
• Final Words

The black skirt tetra is one of the hardiest fish in the freshwater hobby. It survives conditions that would kill most tetras. But there is one thing nobody warns you about. They are fin nippers. Keep them in small groups or with long-finned tank mates and you will see the damage fast.

The black skirt tetra is nearly indestructible. But it will shred any long-finned fish in the tank.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About the Black Skirt Tetra

The Black Skirt Tetra is sold as a peaceful community fish in every store, and that is only partially true. In a proper school of 6+, they are manageable. But keep just 2 or 3 and they become fin nippers, especially with long-finned tank mates like bettas, angelfish, and fancy guppies. The other misconception is that the GloFish Tetra is a different species. It is not. GloFish Tetras are genetically modified Black Skirt Tetras with fluorescent protein genes inserted. Same fish, different color. The care requirements are identical.

Black skirt tetras are one of those fish that have been in the hobby so long they’ve become a staple. And for good reason. They’re genuinely hardy, adaptable, and widely available, making them one of the most beginner-friendly tetras around. After 25 years in this hobby, though, I always flag two things before anyone buys them: first, black skirts is persistent fin nippers, which makes them a poor choice for tanks with long-finned bettas or slow-moving angelfish. Second, if you see brightly colored “dyed” versions in the store. Those fish have been through a stressful injection process and typically have shortened lifespans. Stick with the natural black skirt and you’re getting one of the best value-for-money community fish in the hobby.

The Reality of Keeping Black Skirt Tetra

They are fin nippers and that is not negotiable. Every care guide says “may nip fins.” No. They nip fins. If you put a betta, angelfish, or fancy guppy in with black skirt tetras, the fins will get shredded. A group of 6+ helps redirect the nipping within the school, but it never goes away completely. Plan your tank mates accordingly.

The GloFish version is the same fish. GloFish tetras are genetically modified black skirt tetras. Same care, same temperament, same fin-nipping behavior. The only difference is the fluorescent color under blue light. If you bought GloFish thinking they are a different, more peaceful species, they are not.

Color fades with age and stress. Young black skirt tetras are dark and dramatic. As they age, the black fades to a lighter gray. This is normal, not a disease. Stress, poor water quality, and bright lighting accelerate the fading. Dark substrate and moderate lighting help preserve the color longer.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Mixing them with slow-moving, long-finned fish. It happens constantly and it always ends badly. If your tank has bettas, angelfish, or guppies, this is not the tetra for you. Period.

A Brief Overview of Black Skirt Tetra

Classification

Origins and Habitat

Black skirt tetra (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) is a prominent member of the Characidae family. We will have to travel deep into the South American basins and rivers to find out their origin history.

That’s because these fish originate from the beautiful freshwater rivers of Paraguay, Brazil, and Northeast Argentina, especially the Paraguay and Guapore River basins.

The water in these regions is cool, comfortable, and shaded. That’s how black skirt tetras like their water.

They move in schools and prefer swimming near the surface, feeding on small insects, worms, and crustaceans. Nature does have an endless supply of food for them.

However, the black skirt tetra fish you see on the market today do not come from these wild regions, although that’s what happened initially.

Instead, they are bred in captivity for selling by skilled aquarists and aquaculture farms. Some of the variations of this schooling species are genetically modified.

What Does a Black Skirt Tetra Look Like?

Every black skirt tetra comes with that stunning tetragonal shape of the Characidae family that people love so much.

This unique body shape makes black skirt tetras special to many aquarium enthusiasts. Unlike other tetra fish in the Characidae family, they don’t have bright colors.

Instead, they boast a unique gradient color comprised of black, gray, and silver. There is an appealing translucent hue to make them stand out.

A brighter and reflective grayish silver color dominates the front part of the body, especially the head. However, the color gradually fades to a darker shade as it moves to the tail, giving the fish a gradient effect.

The front part of the black skirt tetras is taller than the back. Their tailfin has a forked shape, and it’s pretty thin. The dorsal fin is relatively small too.

Right on the bottom of the fish, you will notice an oversized anal fin. These fins add to the overall beauty of this amazing fish.

Black skirt tetras are known for their small size. They grow up to be 1 to 2.5 inches in captivity. Some may reach 3 inches, but that doesn’t happen as often.  

How Long Do They Live?

Black skirt tetras have a relatively shorter lifespan. On average, a black skirt tetra will live for up to 3 to 5 years in a well-maintained tank. They have a slightly longer lifespan in their natural habitat, which is about 6 to 7 years at most.

These fish are affected by the water quality and the overall tank condition. So, their lifespan depends a lot on how well maintained the tetra tank is. You won’t see them hitting that 5-year mark if you don’t care for them properly and allow them to stay in poor water conditions for too long.

To ensure they live long enough, monitor the water conditions, change it whenever it gets too polluted, and ensure optimum feeding. Black Skirt Tetras will live the longest in well maintained planted tanks, where shelter is plenty and stress is low.

Are They Hardy?

Black Skirt Tetras are exceptionally hardy! They are tough fish prepared to fend off more stresses in aquarium life, which is good news for beginners.

Even if you make mistakes while learning the ropes of fish keeping, this fish species won’t give up on you and die like other overly sensitive fish. They can easily adapt to different water parameters. You won’t have to rely on special caring techniques to make sure they survive.

They are very friendly and get along with other fish species with ease. You won’t see them having any trouble competing for food as they are fast swimmers.

Furthermore, they aren’t all that vulnerable to many freshwater fish diseases as they have strong resistance. They rarely get infected. So, you have less to worry about their health. Black skirt tetras have a pretty low mortality rate too.

Just because they are hardy fish doesn’t mean you should give them sub-optimum living conditions, they will stress in poor water conditions and need need optimum water temperature for surviving.

These fish can’t tolerate water that’s too cold or too hot. So, make sure to change the water regularly, use a good filtration system, and keep the temperature above 70°F and below 85°F. 

How Do You Tell Male or Female?

It’s easy to tell between a male tetra and a female tetra. Of course, you wouldn’t get it the first time, but it won’t take long to differentiate between the two. The most obvious difference is that a female black skirt tetra is noticeably larger than a male black skirt tetra.

Female black skirt tetras also have a body that’s a bit more rounded than their male counterparts.

You can also tell if the tetra is a male or female by checking the anal fin, although it may be more difficult. Females come with anal fins that run parallel alongside the black stripes on their abdomen.

Besides having a smaller body, male black skirt tetras often feature white spots on their caudal fin. Their anal fins are smaller but broader than females.

As for the dorsal fins, they appear more pointed and a bit narrower.

Can They Live Alone?

Black widow tetra should never be allowed to live alone. Life in solitude for black skirt tetras is nothing short of a nightmare.

This is a schooling fish species and prefers staying in groups. In their natural habitat, these fish school in huge numbers, ranging from hundreds to even thousands! If you want to see the potential of a black skirt tetra school in a large aquarium, check out this cinnmatic from Green Aqua. Green Aqua is one of the best channels for professional aquascaping. I highly recommend subscribing to them!

You can’t expect such a social species to be happy alone, can you? Black Skirt Tetras will become depressed and visibly inactive if you don’t allow them to stay with their friends. Needless to say, they won’t live long.

So, please don’t keep them alone. Add more black skirts to the aquarium. They get along easily with other friendly fish species as they are a pretty and active community fish. Make sure the other fish you add are compatible with each other. More on that in the next section.

Is the Black Skirt Tetra Right for You?

Before you buy, run through this honest checklist. The Black Skirt Tetra is a great fish for the right keeper, but it is not for everyone.

• You want a hardy, active tetra with dramatic black flowing fins
• You can keep a school of 6+ to minimize fin nipping behavior
• Your tank does NOT include slow-moving, long-finned species like bettas or guppies
• You have a 20-gallon or larger tank with open swimming space
• You want a species that is widely available, affordable, and nearly indestructible
• You do not mind that the black coloring fades somewhat as the fish ages

What People Get Wrong

The biggest mistake is assuming all tetras are peaceful community fish. Black skirt tetras are active, assertive fin-nippers. They target long, flowing fins, bettas, angelfish, guppies, and fancy plecos are all at risk in the same tank. Many beginners find this out the hard way after losing a prized betta or a pair of angelfish to fin damage.

The fin-nipping gets worse in small groups and small tanks. A group of 8 or more black skirts in a tank of 30 gallons (114 liters) or larger will direct much of their energy toward each other. A group of 4 in a 10-gallon will tear apart any slow-moving tank mates systematically.

They are also one of the hardiest tetras available, which leads to under-appreciation. Because they survive almost anything, they get thrown into community tanks without thought about compatibility. The fish is easy to keep alive, stocking it correctly is the real skill.

What Fish Are Good Tank Mates?

Being shoaling fish, you should at least keep 5 black skirts together in a single tetra tank. The more, the merrier but don’t stuff them in a small space, though. They will be happier, more comfortable, and live longer when kept in a group.

Thanks to their friendly nature, you can freely keep them in a community tank. But be careful when choosing tank mates. It’s easy to pick the right companion, though. Just make sure not to pick aggressive fish because they will bully your precious black skirt tetra.

Also, you don’t want any fin nippers in a black skirt tetras community tank. Tiger barbs and other fin nippers will target their fins and damage them.

Ironically, this species of fish also loves fin nipping so, you should avoid other fish with long fins.

You can keep any peaceful, non-aggressive fish species with black skirts. It’s even better if they are less active than these fishes. Mid and bottom dwellers are also good options.

Here are our recommended tank mates for black skirt tetras.

• Neon Tetras
• Cardinal Tetra
• Celestial Pearl Danio
• Chili Rasbora
• Harlequin Rasbora
• Cory Catfish
• Bolivian Rams
• Honey Gourami

Avoid fish that are slow with large fins like Betta Fish, they are known for nipping their fins.

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

As we’ve mentioned before, black skirt tetras school in huge numbers in the wild. They are incredibly social and thrive the best in groups.

They hate living alone. Ideally, you should keep at least 5 black tetras together. This will allow them to form a community and feel more confident. When it comes to schooling odd numbers will do better in aquariums.

If you can add more, that’s even better. Besides, it will be really fun to watch them swim together, play around, and keep the inside of your tank lively and active.

What Do They Eat?

Black skirt tetras in the wild eat whatever they find. From small insects to plants, they will eat all kinds of foods! Similarly, a captive black skirt tetra doesn’t have any special preference. So, you have to decide what you want to feed them. A great staple food to feed them would be Northfin Community Formula.

Feel free to feed them commercially available dry and frozen foods. However, make sure the fish food is rich in nutrients.

Some people like to include live foods in their pet fish diet. These schooling fish do be fond of bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, etc. The live foods should be fresh and free of harmful bacteria and pathogens. The best way to ensure they are free from harmful pathogens is to culture your own, though that is not for everyone. The frozen food variety is a great choice if you do not want to culture your own live food.

If you are looking for a good ready to feed staple food, I recommend a pellet food like Northfin community formula. These are pellets that are small enough for nano fish like these tetras while also being free of fillers and high in nutrition. As a rule of thumb, never stick to just one food for your fish. Try to mix it up so they have a well balanced diet.

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Tank Requirements and Care

You will appreciate how low-maintenance black skirt tetra is. There are aren’t any complicated requirements that you have to follow.

Make sure the tank is fully cycled before adding them. Black skirts are tough, but no tetra survives ammonia and nitrite spikes in a new tank. Let the nitrogen cycle finish first.

An entire school of these freshwater fish will easily survive as long as you keep them in the right tank and maintain suitable water parameters. Let’s talk specifics.

Tank Size

Although small in size, they need companions to stay happy. The aquarium size for black skirts should be at least 15-gallons.

But we recommend choosing a 20-gallon fish tank for keeping a small group because these fish are active swimmers and better in a spacious space. Make sure not to overcrowd.

Water Parameters

It would be best if you replicated the natural habitat of wild black skirt tetras inside your aquarium. So, the ideal water temperature is anything between 70°F to 82°F. The best temperature would be the middle of this range.

The water should be slightly acidic, like the water bodies in South America. Maintain a pH level of 6.0 and 7.5, and your fish will be just fine. Also, the water hardness should be 5 to 15 dGH. A great way to keep pH and the water on the softer side is to invest in aquarium driftwood.

It goes without said that the water should be clean and pollution-free. So, you should invest in a reliable water filtration system and aquarium test kit to monitor levels.

Plants and Decoration

Your black skirt tetra will feel more at home if the aquarium looks and feels like their natural habitat.

The best way to do that is by adding suitable plants and vegetation. Try adding tall and floating plants because they will provide them with natural shelter, allow them to hide when they get spooked, and darken the environment.

Black skirt tetras mostly keep to the middle and top layer of the aquarium and seldom swim to the bottom. Some great plants to consider investing in that are easy to care for would be:

• Java Fern
• Java Moss
• Anubias Nana
• Cryptocoryne
• Bucephalandra

So, decorating the bottom of the tank isn’t all that important. However, adding a light sandy substrate constant their colors in an aquascape.  

Since these pet fish prefer a darker environment, they will be more comfortable using subdued lights.

How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

Setting up your aquarium for black skirt tetras is surprisingly easy. Choose the fish tank size according to the number of fish you’re keeping. If you’re starting small, you work with at minimum a 20-gallon fish tank.

Before adding the water, decorate the aquarium to make it more suitable for black skirt tetra. The goal is to make the inside feel like the water bodies of South America, full of vegetation and life.

Don’t forget to install a quality filtration system. This will keep the water clean longer and allow your fish to stay comfortable and disease-free.

After adding the water, test it to see if the temperature and other water parameters are correct. Move onto the water cycling process if everything is perfect for adding the beneficial bacteria.

That’s about it. The tank should now be ready to be the perfect home for your black skirt tetra!

How to Breed

Breeding black skirt tetra is a bit difficult as it requires a lot of work. They aren’t known for their parental traits, and they don’t have the slightest care for their eggs and fry. In fact, they may even eat their own eggs if given a chance.

That’s why it’s necessary to breed them in a separate breeding tank. The breeding tank should have the same water quality and similar decoration as the main tank.

Additionally, you will have to add java moss, spawning mop, net, or artificial grass. These will keep the eggs out of the reach of the adult fish so that they can’t feast on them. It usually takes 2 years for a black tetra to reach adulthood and be sexually mature.

After setting up the breeding tank, identify the bonded pair and move them into a separate tank.  When breeding, feed the pair lots of protein-rich food.

Soon enough, the belly of the female will swell up with eggs. A female black skirt tetra can lay up to 1,000 eggs a day!

The eggs will be scattered all over the place. These eggs are adhesive in nature and stick to the surface. They will sink to the bottom slowly and stick to the java moss, spawning mop, or the net that you’ve laid out before.

When the breeding process is complete, quickly remove the adult fish from the breeding tank before they start eating the eggs.

It usually takes 24 to 36 hours for the eggs to hatch. After hatching from the eggs, the fry will feed on the egg sac.

Wait out a couple of days, and they will be ready to eat fry foods. After the next few weeks, they will grow up to be able to eat baby brine shrimp. Don’t move them into the main tetra tank until they are big enough.

If you want a new video explanation and video, here is a great video by Mark’s Aquatics explain his process.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are black skirt tetras aggressive?

Black skirt tetras is fin nippers, especially in small groups. Keeping them in schools of at least six reduces nipping behavior significantly. They are best described as semi-aggressive and should not be housed with long-finned or slow-moving fish like bettas or angelfish.

How big do black skirt tetras get?

Black skirt tetras reach about 2.5 to 3 inches in captivity. They are a medium-sized tetra that does best in a 20-gallon tank or larger. Their deep body shape makes them appear larger than some other tetras of similar length.

How many black skirt tetras should be kept together?

A minimum of six black skirt tetras should be kept together, with larger groups being even better. In a proper school, they are more confident, less nippy, and display better coloring. A group of eight to twelve in a well-planted tank produces the best natural behavior.

Are GloFish tetras the same as black skirt tetras?

Yes, GloFish tetras are genetically modified black skirt tetras that contain fluorescent genes. They have the same care requirements, temperament, and lifespan as regular black skirt tetras. The only difference is their fluorescent coloring under certain lighting conditions.

How long do black skirt tetras live?

Black skirt tetras typically live 3 to 5 years in captivity with proper care. Some well-maintained specimens can live even longer. They are hardy fish that tolerate a wide range of water conditions, which contributes to their reputation as excellent beginner tetras.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Black Skirt Tetra

They patrol the middle of the tank in a loose school, constantly interacting with each other. You will see occasional chasing and fin-flaring within the group. This is normal dominance behavior, not aggression.

Feeding time is aggressive. These fish hit the surface hard and will outcompete slower feeders for food. If you keep them with timid species, the timid fish will go hungry.

They are surprisingly aware of their surroundings. Black skirt tetras notice when you approach the tank and will often swim to the front looking for food. They are not shy fish.

In a properly set up tank with dark substrate and plants, the contrast between their black body and silver accents is striking. Under harsh lighting on light gravel, they look washed out and stressed.

How the Black Skirt Tetra Compares to Similar Species

Black Skirt Tetra vs. Serpae Tetra

Both are semi-aggressive tetras that nip fins. The Serpae Tetra is redder and arguably worse at fin nipping. The Black Skirt Tetra is larger with more dramatic finnage. Both need careful tank mate selection. If you want a dark, flowing-finned look, the Black Skirt wins. If you want bold red, the Serpae wins.

Black Skirt Tetra vs. Emperor Tetra

The Emperor Tetra is a more peaceful option with similar size and presence. It has a more refined look with dark coloring and metallic accents. The Black Skirt Tetra is bolder and hardier but nippier. For community tanks with sensitive fish, the Emperor Tetra is the safer choice.

Final Words

Black skirt tetras are highly recommended for beginners, but seasoned aquarists can get them too. These fish are pretty fascinating in appearance and fun to have in your community aquarium.

Leave us a comment below if this information was helpful or leave it at that, we don’t mind either way. Who knows, maybe one day soon we’ll be helping get your future tanks set up too!

Recommended Video

Check out our tetra tier list video where we rank the most popular tetras in the hobby, including the black skirt tetra:

🐟 This article is part of our Tetras: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Your guide to every tetra species in the hobby.

References

• Seriously Fish, Species profiles and care data
• FishBase, Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping, Husbandry and care advice

Frontosa cichlids are one of the most impressive fish you can keep in a large freshwater tank. That nuchal hump and bold striping make them look like something prehistoric. I’ve seen well-kept frontosas become genuine showstoppers that stop visitors in their tracks. They’re slower moving and more peaceful than most cichlids their size, but they do need significant space and appropriate tank mates from Lake Tanganyika.

The Reality of Keeping Frontosa Cichlid

Frontosas are not difficult fish. They are demanding fish. The difference matters.

They need a huge tank. A group of frontosas needs 125 gallons minimum, and 180 or larger is better. These are 12 to 14 inch fish that live in groups. A 75-gallon tank is not enough no matter what the fish store says.

Growth is painfully slow. Frontosas take 3 to 5 years to reach full adult size and coloration. The nuchal hump develops gradually. If you want instant gratification, this is the wrong fish. You are investing years before you see the payoff.

Lake Tanganyika water is mandatory. Hard, alkaline water with a pH of 7.8 to 8.6 and high mineral content. If your tap water is soft and acidic, you need to buffer every water change. There is no faking Tanganyika chemistry.

They are nocturnal predators. In the wild, frontosas hunt sleeping fish in the dark at depths over 100 feet. In the aquarium, they are most active at dawn and dusk. Do not keep them with small fish. Anything that fits in their mouth becomes food.

Biggest Mistake New Frontosa Cichlid Owners Make

Keeping them in a tank that is too small. A single frontosa in a 55-gallon tank looks fine for a year. Then it keeps growing, and growing, and the tank that looked adequate becomes a prison. Frontosas need to be kept in groups of 6 or more, and each fish reaches over a foot long. Plan for the adult size from day one, or you will be scrambling for a bigger tank within two years.

Expert Take

Frontosas reward patience like no other fish in the hobby. A mature group in a large tank with proper Tanganyika conditions is one of the most impressive freshwater displays you will ever see. The bold black and white striping, the imposing hump, the dignified slow movement. But getting there takes years of committed care. This is a fish for people who think in decades, not months.

Species Overview

Origins and Habitat

The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is endemic to the waters of Lake Tanganyika in the region of East Africa, which means that is the only place in the world where it occurs naturally. This massive rift lake is shared by the African countries of Zambia, The Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Tanzania, and Burundi.

These fish live in surprisingly deep water compared with most species in the hobby and are usually found at depths of greater than 50ft, but even down to over 300 ft, although they do move towards the surface to hunt.

At these depths, aquatic plants don’t get enough light to grow so their environment is pretty bare. The habitat where they live consists of rocky areas, with patches of open sand between boulders at the lake bottom.

Scientists have determined that there are more than one species of Frontosa Cichlid. The 2 best-known species are Cyphotilapia frontosa from the north of the lake, and C. Gibberosa, which is found in the south¹.

What Does the Frontosa Cichlid Look like?

Cyphotilapia frontosa is a large and boldly patterned African cichlid species. One of the most characteristic and recognizable features of this popular fish species is the large hump that mature fish develop on their forehead.

The hump on the forehead is actually an extension of the dorsal muscles. Both the male and female Frontosa cichlids grow this hump, but it does grow larger in older, dominant males.

A male frontosa will also grow bigger than females and their pelvic, anal and dorsal fins grow longer with age. Apart from these differences, the male and female look very similar. Juveniles of both male and female Frontosa Cichlids look identical.

These fish have 5-7 broad, black vertical bars on the sides of their bodies. The body color is white, blue, or sometimes yellowish. The fins are a beautiful light blue color.

Interestingly, the body color and brightness of these fish can change depending on their mood. Dominant and stressed fish are often a darker color, while males that are ready to spawn will display brighter blue coloration.

The physical differences between Cyphotilapia frontosa and Cyphotilapia gibberosa are not all that easy to see and consist mostly of differences in the number of scale rows and the proportions of the body and fins.

There are many different color variants available. These different variants are usually the result of populations from isolated regions in the lake developing distinct colors and markings, although some have been developed in the hobby.

Some popular variants of Cyphotilapia frontosa and C. Gibberosa include:

• Burundi Six-stripe Frontosa
• Zaire Blue frontosa/ Blue Zaire
• Zambian Blue Frontosa/ Blue Face Frontosa
• Red Frontosa
• Tanzanian 7-stripe Frontosa

Frontosa cichlids are slow growing, long lived predators that need patience most hobbyists do not have. They need massive tanks, stable water chemistry, and years before they show their full potential. Rushing this fish into an undersized setup or unstable tank will stunt growth and shorten a lifespan that should reach 25 years. This is a commitment fish, not a showpiece you add on impulse.

The Reality of Keeping Frontosa Cichlid Care

This is not a beginner cichlid. Frontosa Cichlid Care requires specific conditions that casual keepers rarely maintain long-term.

Water chemistry is non-negotiable. The parameters this species needs are precise. Close enough is not good enough.

The reward matches the effort. A properly kept Frontosa Cichlid Care is one of the most impressive fish in the hobby. But you earn that result.

Biggest Mistake New Frontosa Cichlid Care Owners Make

Treating it like a standard cichlid. Frontosa Cichlid Care has requirements that go beyond basic cichlid care. Generic advice leads to generic failures with this species.

Expert Take

Frontosa Cichlid Care is for the keeper who has already succeeded with easier species and wants a real challenge. The payoff is worth it, but only if the fundamentals are already second nature.

What Is Their Eating Habit?

The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is a piscivorous fish species which means they feed on other smaller fish in nature. Frontosas are ambush hunters that rely more on stealth than speed to catch their prey. They also feed on shellfish and other aquatic organisms and are thought to eat some algae and plant matter sometimes as well.

In the home aquarium, Cyphotilapia frontosa should be fed a balanced diet that is rich in proteins. A high-quality cichlid pellet is the best choice for their regular diet, although juvenile fish will find flake food easier to manage. Ron’s Cichlid food is a great choice as a staple in a cichlid diet.

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Other supplementary food options include:

• Fresh or frozen fish like tilapia. Avoid processed fish products.
• Bloodworms
• Brine shrimp
• Krill
• Mosquito larvae
• Mussel meat
• Occasional vegetable matter like spinach, kale, chopped peas, or spirulina algae wafers

Even though it may be more convenient, aquarists should avoid feeding bird or mammal meat as these fish are not adapted to digest these forms of protein. Live fish such as feeder fish is fed, but should be avoid as they can spread disease in the aquarium.

Wherever possible, it’s always best to provide your fish with the kind of living conditions they have in nature. This doesn’t only apply to things like water chemistry and flow but also to natural behaviors. They will be most happy if kept in a group where they can display their natural behaviors, and they will probably be more interesting pets for the same reason.

In the home aquarium setting, it is best to keep a minimum of 6-8 individuals to reduce aggression. The ideal ratio would be 1 male to 6 females.

That being said, if you really want a Burundi Frontosa Cichlid but you can’t keep the recommended number of individuals, it would be better to keep just one with some other compatible fish. That way you can avoid aggression in a group that is too small.

Males can reach a maximum of about 13 inches while females are smaller, growing to about 10 inches long. Although juveniles is kept in a 75-gallon aquarium, a group is best kept in a much larger aquarium size of around 150 gallons.

Fortunately, they are slow-growing fish, so you can definitely start out with a 75 gallon, provided you can commit to upgrading when the time comes. Of course, it is better to start out with the right size aquarium from the beginning though.

How Long Do They Live?

The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is a large slow-growing species, and so it comes as no surprise that they are a long-lived fish species. Frontosas kept in the right aquarium environment, with the right care, can easily live 15 years.

Some specimens even live for longer than 25 years. For this reason, keeping these fish should definitely be looked at as a long-term commitment.

Are They Aggressive?

These fish are classed as semi-aggressive cichlids. This is a little confusing because, on the one hand, you’ll hear about some keepers having problems with aggression, while others describe them as really calm, peaceful fish.

The key to preventing aggression is to keep these fish in a big enough tank and to keep the right number of individuals.

They are carnivorous animals that eat other fish in nature, so you shouldn’t be surprised to learn that they will eat other smaller fish in your home aquarium too. The obvious way to prevent this problem is to keep them only with other similarly sized and equally non-aggressive fish.

As a species, Frontosa Cichlids are not very active, and relatively speaking, they are very peaceful for a cichlid. These fish have a social dominance structure with a dominant male and subordinate males and females. In a larger aquarium, more than one alpha can occur and the pecking order is more complex.

How Much Do They Cost?

The price of the Burundi Frontosa Cichlid can vary tremendously depending on the variant and purchase size of the fish. Another important pricing factor is whether the specimen was wild-caught in Lake Tanganyika or tank-bred.

You can usually expect to pay between $20 and $40 for a small, tank-bred specimen. Wild-caught fish are of course far more expensive and difficult to find.

Tank Requirements (Care)

Although Frontosas are fairly easy cichlids to care for, they do have some pretty important aquarium requirements that have to be met. These are not small fish so you will need to be sure you have enough space to house them.

You’ll also need enough time to keep up with regular water changes, and enough funds to buy a good quality filtration system and good quality nutrition to keep them healthy in the long term.

Let’s take a closer look at what you’ll need to keep these awesome cichlids.

Filtration and Water Quality

As with all the rift valley lake cichlids from Africa, these fish prefer alkaline water chemistry with a high pH of up to about 9. The vast majority of Cyphotilapia frontosa available in the aquarium trade are farmed, however, and have become acclimated to lower pH water conditions.

The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid needs excellent water quality so it is important to provide excellent filtration and keep up with weekly partial water changes. An external canister filter, sump system, or both are recommended.

This cichlid is adapted to a lake environment where there is usually little water flow and current so they will do best in aquariums with a lower flow rate. If you have a power filter, you can reduce the flow in your tank by aiming the outflow upwards towards the water surface.

Your aquarium must be fully cycled before introducing these fish so that the water parameters stay stable and you don’t get any dangerous spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels.

A weekly 25-50% water change is recommended and the new water added to your tank should be treated with a water conditioner to make it fish safe. Regular vacuuming of the gravel or substrate in your tank is also important for maintaining great quality water.

Tank Environment

A rocky habitat with low light will most closely recreate the habitat this African cichlid prefers in the waters of Lake Tanganyika. Make sure to provide plenty of hiding spaces, with at least one for each individual fish.

Aquarium rocks is arranged to create caves but make sure they are stable for the safety of your fish. Alternatively, old flowerpots make great shelters and can even be used as a breeding site. Use smooth rocks or pots without sharp edges that could damage your fish’s fins though.

Whatever you use to create shelters in your aquarium, make sure some are large enough to accommodate the dominant male and some are not large enough to accommodate him so that subordinate fish will always have a place to hide if necessary.

A deep tank is best because this will provide your fish with plenty of swimming space. Crushed coral sand or aragonite makes the best aquarium substrates because they help to maintain the high pH and water hardness that rift valley cichlids prefer. Alternatively, you can use sand or gravel as a substrate.

Live Plants

Being a relatively deep water fish species, these cichlids are happy to live in an environment without plants. That being said, it is possible to keep the Burundi Frontosa cichlid in a planted tank. One important point to remember is that Frontosa Cichlids should not be kept in bright light environments and this rules out most plant species.

Low light aquarium plants like Java Ferns and Anubias that are not rooted, but rather grown attached to aquarium driftwood or rocks are your best bet here. So all in all, Frontosas are not ideal for planted tanks, but it’s not impossible to keep both.

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Tank Mates

The best tank mates for Frontosas are other peaceful African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika. This is mostly because these fish enjoy the same water conditions. Other fish like Malawi cichlids can also make great tank mates though.

These fish are piscivorous, which means they feed on smaller fish species in nature. Even if you provide them with high-quality commercial fish food, they will not pass up the opportunity to snack on small fish or inverts so be careful about introducing other fish that are not of a similar size.

Another point to consider is that Frontosas are very slow growers, so juveniles is outgrown by their tank mates if they are all stocked at the same time.

Some good tank mates for Cyphotilapia frontosa include:

• Haplochromis cichlids
• Peacock cichlids
• Synodontis catfish
• Large Plecostomus catfish
• Clown Loaches

How To Breed

Breeding fish is a post in itself and the Frontosa is no exception. However, the video below from Ricky Kenerly Cichlids is a great overview on how to breed these fish.

• Fish need to be at least 2-3 years old (They take a while to reach sexual maturity)
• Stable pH (7.7 – 8.5)
• Use sandy substrate (for nest building)
• Diet – be solid on your diet plan. See diet info earlier in the post
• Focus on smaller water changes to lower stress on your fish
• Use at least a 55 gallon breeding tank for breeding pairs

Check it the full video below:

FAQs

What It Is Actually Like Living With Frontosa Cichlid

Frontosas move like they own the tank. There is no darting, no frantic swimming, no panic. They glide. A group of adult frontosas cruising through a large tank has a presence that no other freshwater fish matches. Visitors who have never cared about fish stop and stare. The bold black and white striping and the massive head hump make them look prehistoric, and that impression only gets stronger as they grow.

Feeding time is the only time they move with any urgency, and even then it is more of a determined approach than a sprint. They take food with deliberate precision. Watching a 12-inch frontosa cruise over and inhale a chunk of krill is satisfying in a way that watching a school of tetras chase flakes never will be.

The long game is the hardest part. You buy juveniles that look like undersized, plain striped fish with no hump. For two or three years, you wait. You feed them, maintain their water, and wonder when the transformation will happen. Then slowly, the hump grows, the body fills out, the presence develops. By year five, you have a fish that commands respect from across the room. That wait is what makes frontosas a fish for the patient.

Final Words

Frontosa reward patience. If you do not have it, pick a different fish.

The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid, Cyphotilapia frontosa, is an outstanding aquarium fish that is fairly easy to keep, as long as you can provide it with the space and water quality it deserves. These large and beautiful fish are a firm favorite among aquarists and should be at the top of any fishkeeper’s wish list. Leave us a comment below if you have anything else you want to add about these amazing Aquatic creatures.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

The Wakin Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing
• A Brief Overview of the Wakin Goldfish
• Classification
• Origins and Habitat
• What Does Wakin Goldfish Look Like?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What are Good Tank Mates?
• How Big Are They?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What Do They Eat?
• What About Live Foods?
• How Much and How Often to Feed
• Tank Requirements (Care)
• Substrate
• Decor
• Plants
• Filtration
• How to Breed
• Health and Disease
• Signs of Good Health
• Signs of Poor Health and Treatment
• Where to Buy (And Cost)
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Is the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Right for You?
• How the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Compares to Similar Species
• Closing Thoughts
• The Reality of Keeping Wakin Goldfish

The Wakin goldfish is one of the oldest domestic goldfish varieties still kept today. And one of the most overlooked by western hobbyists. I’ve covered dozens of goldfish types over the years on our channel, and the Wakin always surprises people who’ve only seen the slow-moving, round-bodied fancy varieties. It has a sleek body like a common goldfish but with a distinctive double tail and often stunning coloration. After 25 years in this hobby, one thing I always make clear: don’t mix Wakin with fancy goldfish. They’re fast, competitive swimmers that will outcompete slower varieties for food every time. This guide covers everything you need to keep Wakin goldfish thriving. Whether in a pond or a large aquarium.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing

The biggest mistake I see with wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowings is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

The Reality of Keeping Wakin Goldfish

Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

Expert Take

The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

A Brief Overview of the Wakin Goldfish

Classification

Origins and Habitat

Like many other goldfish varieties, the wakin was first bred artificially in Japan in the early 16th century. In its early days, the wakin was a highly prized Japanese goldfish, and only available to the wealthy.

, aquarists agree that most of the fancy goldfish breeds we know today originated from mutations in the wakin goldfish.

Like all other goldfish, the wakin is descended from the Chinese gibel carp¹.

What Does Wakin Goldfish Look Like?

Similar to common goldfish (picture source), wakin goldfish are physically characterized by a slender and long body shape with no compression. They are classified as a lean bodied or slim-bodied goldfish. These types of goldfish are more atheltic and make for a more sturdy goldfish than other goldfish.

You will also know wakins by their split tail. However, unlike fancy double-tailed goldfish, these fish have long and flowing double tail. Their caudal fin, which is short, resembles more of a fantail shape. 

Every wakin goldfish has a unique pattern on its body. In terms of coloration, they come in a wide variety, although they are mainly sought in white, red, or a combination of the two. Additionally, you might find rare colors like calico, yellow, orange and brown, but the rarer the color, the higher the price tag is likely to be.

And speaking of variations, you might also find the “watonai” variation of wakins, who have flowing tails.

• How Big are Wakin Goldfish?Add ImageAt a maximum length of 18 inches, wakin goldfish are some of the largest breeds of goldfish you’ll find. You’re more likely to see them grow to this size if you locate them in a pond instead of in a tank. 
• How Long Do Wakin Goldfish Live?Add ImageThe average Wakin goldfish can live up to 10 to 15 years, with some exceptions. Those who are carefully looked after can thrive for as long as 20 years! 

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Temperament and Activity Level

Wakin goldfish are fast and lively fish who enjoy exploring their surroundings. They are mainly peaceful freshwater fish, able to coexist peacefully with most other community fish. That said, you should avoid putting them together with fancy goldfish, since the latter are slow swimmers. As such, they’ll have to compete for access to food.

Wakin goldfish are also well-loved for their friendly and curious nature. In fact, once you start feeding them regularly, you’ll start to notice how they rush to the surface of the pond or tank to greet you when feeding time is due.

What are Good Tank Mates?

Great Tank Mates

As fast swimmers, these pet fish are best kept with other fast species such as:

• Koi Fish
• Shubunkin Goldfish
• Comet Goldfish

Besides goldfish, apple snails, ghost shrimps, African dwarf frogs, rosy barbs, and weather loaches.

Fish Species to Avoid

, the Wakin goldfish are friendly and playful with most other community fish. However, there are certain fish that don’t get along with them. For instance, you should avoid housing them with aquarium fish species like fancy goldfish as they are slow swimmers and therefore, at a disadvantage during feeding time. You also shouldn’t choose aggressive tank mates for the these fish, such as cichlids. 

Just got yourself or considering a Wakin Goldfish? If so, this article about Wakin Goldfish Care will answer all your questions!

The vivid color, attractive double tail and friendly, curious temperament of the Wakin goldfish (carassius auratus) has led to an increase in its popularity in recent years. Originating in Japan like most other wild carp descended fish, it was the original prototype, of sorts, of many other fancy goldfish breeds.

Wakin goldfish are a good choice for aquatic pet lovers since they’re not difficult to take care of. Although they are best brought up in a pond, they can also be housed in aquariums. With the right care guidelines, of course.

Temperament and Activity Level

Wakin goldfish are lean bodied goldfish that are fast and lively fish. They enjoy exploring their surroundings. They are mainly peaceful freshwater fish, able to coexist peacefully with most other community fish. That said, you should avoid putting them together with fancy goldfish, since the latter are slow swimmers. As such, they’ll have to compete for access to food.

Wakin goldfish are also well-loved for their friendly and curious nature. In fact, once you start feeding them regularly, you’ll start to notice how they rush to the surface of the pond or tank to greet you when feeding time is due.

What Do They Eat?

The Waking Goldfish breed is omnivorous. This means that giving them high quality fish food and a varied diet they need is easy, and you can feed them most low-fat foods.

You can give them flakes or pellets, but as always, these should not be their only nutrition source. Instead, you should aim to mix it up by introducing vegetables such as lettuce, broccoli, cabbage and shelled peas, and occasionally, chunks of fruits like strawberries and grapes. Also, if you keep them in an aquarium with live plants, don’t be surprised if they start grazing on them.

Of course, you should always be cautious about overfeeding them, because doing so can lead to the development of one or more of the digestive conditions or swim bladder problems.

What About Live Foods?

Brine shrimp, Tubifex worms, blackworms, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, etc. Make good live foods for these fish. Freeze dried and frozen sources of protein will also work.

How Much and How Often to Feed

A proper diet is very important for the well-being of your goldfish. Feed them too little and they will fall sick, feed them too much and they will have buoyancy problems.

The Wakin fish are omnivores which means they can feast on plant and animal matter. While basic store-bought pellets and flakes are a good source of nutrition, try to bring new variations of food. For example, try to drop some lettuce or diced grapes once a week or so and watch how your fish react to it.

When you’re buying fish food, try to get a mixture of both plant and animal-based varieties. Also, you should choose pellets that sink to the floor rather thank floating on the surface. Goldfish like searching for food at the base of the tank and with variation in the pellets, they won’t get bored.

You should feed them no more than twice daily and no more than what they can finish off within 3-4 minutes. Remove any leftovers from the water to ensure that the water remains inhabitable.

Tank Requirements (Care)

Here’s what to keep in mind when setting up your wakin tank.

Tank Size

Wakin fish can grow quite large and therefore need a lot of room to live freely. A large body also means more waste released into the aquarium. 

With this in mind, at least a 30 gallon tank is required to house one of these guys, along with an additional 10 gallons of water for each new fish. But there are no limits: the larger the aquarium size, the better. To maximize their happiness and lifespan, outdoor ponds are the best place for a Wakin. You can see a great example of a wakin goldfish tank below by C Lifestyle.

Tank Setup

There are some basic elements your tank must have in order for your Wakins to live and thrive. 

Temperature

Wakins prefer to live and thrive in cold water; they should be placed in unheated tanks. The ideal water temperature range for them is 65 to 72 degrees F. 

pH

Maintain a neutral pH for them between 6.0 and 8.0.

Ammonia and Nitrate

Ammonia and nitrate levels should be kept at 0.

Substrate

Large, smooth gravel is a good substrate or a fine sandy substrate is best for Wakin goldfish. This is because goldfish love scouring around, they might mistake gravel for food. The wrong gravel size is accidentally shallowed by your goldfish. Caribsea sand is great for goldfish.

Ideal For Goldfish

Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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Decor

Using plastic plants along with certain moss types will enhance the look of your aquarium. You can add large stones and small sticks as well to replicate a pond and give your fish plenty of options to play.

Plants

Keeping natural vegetation is difficult when it comes to wakin, who love to eat plants. More active ones might even uproot plants. Moreover, many plants won’t survive in the colder temperatures that wakins like. Knowing this, here are several plants that can take the punishment of these fish or may be ignored entirely:

• Java Fern
• Anubias
• Water Sprite
• Java Moss

If you do not want to deal with the hassle artificial plants is advised. In large commercial size ponds, plants are often omitted

Filtration

To deal with the large amounts of goldfish waste, go with a filtration system meant for large tanks. It’s also advised to get a filtration system with a larger tank capacity than what your setup has. A large power filter is minimum for a Wakin in a aquarium. For ponds, consider a waterfall style filtration system. Large ponds over 1500 gallons will often consider bead filtration for maximum biological filtration.

Since these fish are large and produce a lot of waste, consider a high end biological media like biohome.

Editor’s Choice!

Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

Editor’s Choice!

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How to Breed

We have certain pointers for those of you who are particularly interested in creating your own Wakin ecosystem. 

To push your mating, you must first replicate the natural changes they go through in a pond. Firstly, since they mate during spring, dropping the water temperature to 60 or 65 degrees F will signal the fish to procreate.

You must offer the fish adequate natural vegetation such as the Java moss in order to create suitable egg laying zones. You can also look for artificial spawning mops which do the same job as the moss. You should see fry within 48-72 hours of eggs being laid.

Note that in larger ponds, Wakin Goldfish breed regularly. If you don’t want an overflowing pond, you’ll have to make regular checks. Larger fish like Koi will eat baby fry.

Health and Disease

The best way to keep your fish healthy is with great filtration and a quality diet. Prevention is the best remedy when it comes to health. If you are wondering if your fish is unhealthy, there are some pointers to help.

Signs of Good Health

A healthy wakin is one that retains its friendly, lively and curious nature. You will see it frequently dipping in and out of tank and pond decorations, swimming swiftly and actively, and eating large amounts of food in short amounts of time.

Signs of Poor Health and Treatment

Unfortunately, like all goldfish varieties, wakins are also susceptible to freshwater fish diseases like ich, fin rot, bacterial infections, fluke, etc. The article I linked to contains a wealth of information on how to identify and cure many common diseases you may come across. Common signs of an ill fish would be:

• Rapid breathing
• Flashing or scratching rocks/gravel
• White and stringy poop
• Red marks and ulcers
• Torn or clamped fins
• White spots (not to be confused with mating white spots of goldfish who are breeding)

Wakins are less susceptible to bloat and other diseases that plague fancy goldfish.

Where to Buy (And Cost)

You can find them for sale online and at many aquarium stores. The main issue you will run into when shopping locally is the quality of Wakins. They are classified as beginner fish and not kept in good conditions. The best place to purchase in my mind is from a garden retailer who specializes in pond fish. Wakin goldfish cost more for at these retailers, but they are of superior quality.

My favorite of these are NextDayKoi. They offer a variety of quality goldfish that work well in ponds and larger aquariums. You won’t be disappointed ordering from them!

Wakin Goldfish

With their elongated bodies and unique fins, Wakins are a flash of color and character to your pond

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Frequently Asked Questions

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate , Wakin goldfish grow large and live long. They are best suited to ponds or very large indoor setups with strong filtration.

Hard Rule: Wakin goldfish grow to 10–12 inches (25–30 cm) and produce heavy waste. They require 75+ gallons (284+ L) minimum , but a pond is the appropriate long-term home.

Is the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Right for You?

Before you add a wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowings need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:

• Your tank is under 75 gallons (284 L) – wakin goldfish outgrow standard aquariums within 2–3 years
• You keep tropical species that need warm water – wakin goldfish prefer cool temperatures
• You want a fish that stays small and compact like fancy goldfish varieties
• You are not prepared for large weekly water changes and heavy filtration demands

How the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Compares to Similar Species

Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing stacks up against some common alternatives.

The wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Closing Thoughts

With adequate amounts of living space, a varied diet and dedicated care, the Wakin goldfish is the new pride and joy of your home aquarium. Although it’s best to put them in ponds, replicating a pond environment is also possible. I hope you found these tips helpful! Please leave your comments below so I can continue providing helpful information about these wonderful fish and others in our hobby.

Jewel cichlids are one of those fish where the name really does justice to the animal. The iridescent red and blue coloration on a healthy specimen is genuinely stunning. I’ve kept them and they’re hardy, bold fish with a lot of personality. The one thing I always emphasize: they’re aggressive, especially during breeding, and tankmate selection requires real thought or you’ll have problems.

If you’ve been researching different species of cichlids, the jewel cichlid may, quite understandably, have caught your eye. Now, despite its undeniable beauty, the jewel cichlid gets a bad rap due to its semi-aggressive temperament.

For many aquarists who wish to maintain a peaceful community tank, adding a jewel cichlid will not be worth it. However, keeping jewel cichlids is not only fun and rewarding, it’s also a great way to liven up your aquarium. Although their temperament will pose a problem to novice aquarists, the jewel cichlid is a worthwhile pet.

Wondering whether a jewel cichlid is worth putting in your home aquarium? Let our jewel cichlid care guide help you decide.

Species Overview

Origins and Habitat

The jewel cichlid Hemichromis bimaculatus originates in West Africa. This is where the fish inhabit richly vegetated freshwater bodies like streams, rivers, and lakes. Jewel cichlids have also been documented in some parts of North Africa.

Because these water bodies are teeming with other cichlids and don’t offer a wide variety of sustenance, they are very competitive habitats. This explains why these jewel fish are naturally aggressive and territorial.

What Does the they Look Like?

The coloration of the jewel cichlid species varies widely. You’ll find them mostly in a bright orange-tinted red with vibrant white spots (this is the blood red jewel cichlid), but many are also colored purple with contrasting greenish spots (green jewel fish).

This color will be intensified during the breeding season. During this time, you’ll also notice a longer ventral, anal, and dorsal fin. Some say that male cichlids have a brighter coloration than their female counterparts. 

Temperament and Activity Level

The hemichromis bimaculatus is recognizable by its aggressive behavior. Particularly when it is stressed or underfed, a jewelfish is more likely to lash out and attack his/her tank mates. Breeding season is when the fish reaches the height of its aggression.

This will all sound very scary, but for the committed aquarist, it’s actually not that difficult to ensure a stress-free environment for this freshwater fish. As long as tank requirements are strictly maintained. The best thing to curb aggression is space and lots of shelter. If you have a small tank, with lots of fish, and no shelter, your Jewel Cichlids will be more aggressive as they fight to claim limited territory.

, your jewel cichlid fish will be seen flitting back and forth across the water. They are also very active fish who like to dig at their substrate, looking for food.

Jewel cichlids are also monogamous, which means they form a breeding pair for life. If your jewel fish are in a pair, don’t be surprised to see them together most of the time! 

What are Good Tankmates?

It will seem like a bad idea to include any tank mates for your jewelfish, fin nippers as they are. Well, you should listen to your instincts. Don’t put them in a community tank. These freshwater fish are best off in a species only or cichlid tank.  

Good Tank Mates

Despite their bad reputation, some jewelfish can, in fact, cohabit peacefully with certain other semi-aggressive species. Accordingly, here are some fish that will make acceptable mates for your jewelfish.

• Clown loaches
• Plecos
• Electric blue acaras
• Redtail shark
• Syndontis catfish
• Scavenger catfish
• Leopard bullfish

Jewel cichlids are one of the most aggressive fish you will ever keep relative to their size. They will terrorize tank mates, destroy aquascapes, and turn a peaceful community tank into a war zone overnight. When breeding, their aggression doubles. I have kept these for years and the number one mistake I see is people treating them like a regular community fish. They are not.

The Reality of Keeping How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

The aggression reputation is earned but misunderstood. How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium is not randomly violent. It is territorial, and territory disputes in a poorly planned tank look like chaos.

Group size controls behavior. Keep too few and you get a bully. Keep enough and aggression spreads out. There is a threshold, and missing it ruins the tank.

Most problems are stocking problems. The fish is not the issue. The tank plan is the issue.

Biggest Mistake New How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium Owners Make

Keeping too few. A small group of How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium creates a hierarchy where the bottom fish gets destroyed. The solution is not fewer fish. It is more fish to spread aggression.

Expert Take

Stock heavily, filter aggressively, and provide sight breaks throughout the tank. How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium is manageable when you control the environment. Let the environment control itself and this fish exposes every weakness.

Fish Species to Avoid

When selecting home aquarium tank mates for your jewel cichlid, it’s best to avoid all fish species if you can, except a few semi-aggressive fish mentioned above.

In particular, peaceful aquarium fish species (for example, any goldfish species) should be avoided at all costs, as your jewelfish will harm them and will even eat or kill them. MBunas and Rift Lake Cichlids should be avoided as they are likely to be attacked and killed. 

What Do Jewelfish Eat?

Feeding jewel cichlids is fairly easy. As omnivorous freshwater fish, jewel fish will readily eat pellets, flake food, and live food as well.

You should aim to provide as balanced a diet as possible. This means mixing and matching different food types. You can also consider giving them vegetables such as lettuce leaves and spirulina. Frozen foods are alright once a week. If feeding pellets or flakes, consider one that contains probiotics like the Cobalt Aquatics line.

Best Flake Formula

Cobalt Aquatics Cichlid Flakes

With probiotics and specially formulated for Cichlids, this is bar none the best flake formula available for your Africans

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What about Live Foods?

Bloodworms, white worms, tubifex, and frozen baby brine shrimp are great live foods for jewel cichlids. Limit providing live foods to once a week.

How Much and How Often to Feed

You should aim to feed your jewel cichlids at least twice a day. Be careful not to overfeed them, however, and don’t confuse their voracious eating for constant hunger.

Feeding your jewel fish properly is crucial if you want them to retain their vivid coloration.

How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

Recreating the Africa habitat or breeding conditions of the jewelfish is not too difficult. Here’s all you need to know about how to set up the tank of your jewelfish.

 Tank Size

For one pair of jewel cichlids, a tank size of at least 30 gallons is required. For each new pair, add 20 gallons. If you put them in a community aquarium (not recommended), provide a tank divider. When your Jewel Cichlids are in breeding mode, consider removing other tank mates if your tank is on the small side. They are known for taking over 30 and 40 gallon tanks!

Substrate

A sandy substrate is best for these fish as they love to dig. Anything sharper will injure them.

Decor

Decorations are a necessity when rearing jewel fish, who are territorial and love to claim their own space. Provide rocks and aim to create cave-like conditions. Rocks with holes or caves are ideal to provide shelter.

Plants

These fish are curious and active fish who love to dig. So, they will get in the way of your aquarium plants thriving unless the plants are protected by rocks and such. Floating plants and column feeders like Anubias Nana and Java Fern would be good examples of plants that could work.

Water Quality

Here are the water conditions you need to ensure for your jewel cichlids

Filtration

Provide adequate filtration for your jewel cichlids to ensure that they can enjoy a water flow mimicking the currents of the streams and rivers they’re used to. They are particularly hardy. They do well with your standard power filter. 

Water Parameters

Maintain these water conditions in your home tank to ensure a healthy environment for your jewelfish.

• Water Temperature: 70°F to 74°F
• pH Range: 7 to 7.5
• Hardness Range: Not above 12 dGH
• Water Movement: Moderate to strong

Aquarium Maintenance

Besides ensuring the proper parameters for your cichlid aquarium, conduct regular water changes of 25% – 40%. Remember, the goal is to reduce your jewelfish’s aggression. Otherwise, their lifespan will be shortened.

How to Breed?

Breeding this species in tanks is relatively easy once you can determine their sex. As they are monogamous, cichlids form pairs quickly and easily during mating season, and once they are parents, they will stick together.

Breeding Tank

You can isolate your cichlid pair in a breeding aquarium, but it’s not necessary if you have just one pair. Gradually raise the water temperature from their regular temperature by a few degrees every day until you reach 80° to 82° F (or 26.7° – 27.8° C).

Breeding Behavior

When the male is ready, his color will become very vibrant, and he will become very aggressive. Like other cichlid species, the male will chase the female about the tank for a little bit until she lays eggs.

Once she’s ready, the female will search for the right place to lay her eggs. She will likely settle on a flat surface, typically a flat-faced rock. She will produce up to 500 eggs.

After Breeding

Once the eggs are fertilized, they will hatch within 2 to 4 days. After hatching, the jewelfish parents will help each other move their kids to a different part of the aquarium. During this time, the parents will be excessively aggressive in order to defend their young fish. 

Feeding Fry

Let the fry absorb the remainder of the egg yolk in the first few days. Afterward, feed them crushed flakes and mashed pellets. Don’t be distressed if the new parents eat some of their offspring. 

Health and Disease

Your jewel cichlid is, unfortunately, prone to the illnesses most freshwater cichlids are prone to. Here’s how to tell whether your jewelfish is healthy or needs care. 

Signs of Health

A healthy jewelfish is a happy one. A happy jewelfish is playful and active (is interpreted as aggression), burrowing in the substrate or flitting about their aquarium. Most significantly, healthy jewelfish retains its vibrant coloration. 

Signs of Ill Health

Here’s a list of several common issues you may come across

•  When a jewelfish is highly stressed, ill, or underfed, it will very likely lose its color. This is one of the most easily seen warning signs of this fish.
• Swelling, loss of appetite, rapid breathing, and differently colored feces are all symptoms of Malawi bloat, a condition that mostly affects African cichlids.
• Notice an indentation in the head of your jewel cichlid? He/she is suffering from hexamita, also known as “hole in the head” disease.
• Look out for ich, which manifests in symptoms like lethargy, loss of appetite, and restless behavior, but most importantly, white spots on the body of the fish.
• Labored breathing and a loss of color might indicate gill flukes.

All of these conditions are covered in our freshwater fish diseases post.

Common Health Issues and Treatment

One of the easiest ways to ensure that your jewel fish is healthy is to provide the required tank parameters with care. Feed them regularly, don’t overfeed, and provide a varied diet. This will keep most illnesses at bay.

Here’s how to deal with other diseases that will come up:

• If you think your jewelfish is suffering from Malawi bloat, act quickly. Change the tank’s water and introduce a dose of Metronidazole. However, know that Malawi bloat is a condition that quickly turns fatal, so don’t blame yourself if something goes wrong.
• Administer the same treatments for ich as you would for other cichlids: increased tank temperature, salt baths, potassium permanganate, acriflavine, and malachite green.
• If you suspect your fish is suffering from gill flukes, use Praziquantel.

Where to Buy?

Compared to other cichlid breeds, the jewelfish is a little harder to buy in brick-and-mortar pet shops. They will also be a little more expensive. If you cannot find them locally, try using an online fish store. Often times, their guarantee will be superior to what you can find locally.

Frequently Asked Questions

What It Is Actually Like Living With How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

A properly stocked How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium tank is one of the most active, dynamic setups in the hobby. There is always something happening.

The aggression is structured, not random. Once territories are established, the tank settles into a pattern. Disrupting that pattern restarts the conflict.

Watching How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium interact is endlessly entertaining. These are smart fish with complex social dynamics.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Jewel Cichlid

A jewel cichlid tank is never boring. These fish are always doing something. Patrolling territory, displaying to each other, digging in the substrate, or staring you down through the glass. They have more personality per inch than most fish three times their size. You will catch yourself talking to them, and you will not feel weird about it.

The color display during breeding is the highlight. Both parents intensify to a deep, glowing red covered in iridescent blue-white spots. It looks like someone painted them. The male flares and displays while the female fans the eggs, and the entire tank seems to pulse with energy. It is one of the most visually spectacular things that happens in a freshwater aquarium.

The aggression is the price of admission. During breeding, you cannot do tank maintenance without getting bitten. You reach in with a siphon and both parents charge your hand. It does not hurt much, but it is startling every time. Other fish in the tank learn to stay in their corners or suffer the consequences. You accept this or you remove the jewels. There is no peaceful coexistence during a breeding cycle.

Closing Thoughts

Jewel cichlids do not have tank mates. They have targets.

Even our dearest loved ones are sometimes obnoxious, we don’t stop loving them. Try to adopt the same approach to your jewel cichlids. Maintaining their behavior is difficult, but maintaining their diet and water parameters is easy. And the end result is definitely rewarding. Good luck!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Ranchu Goldfish are the most selectively bred fancy goldfish variety. That breeding comes at a cost. They are slow swimmers, poor competitors for food, and sensitive to water quality swings.

Ranchus are not for beginners. They are for goldfish keepers who already understand filtration, water changes, and feeding.

Considered the “King of Goldfish” by the Japanese, Ranchu goldfish are among the oldest and most popular fancy goldfish. They hold a special place in the minds of many goldfish enthusiasts, thanks to their unique appearance. An aquarium teeming with these beautiful fish is sure to enhance the aesthetic appeal of just about any place, be it your home or your office!

So, if you’re looking to keep fancy goldfish, you should consider Ranchu Goldfish. They are available in various shapes and colors to make your fish tank appear lavish and elegant. Keep reading to learn more about these incredible fancy goldfish, as we will provide all the necessary information on how to properly care for your King (or Queen).

A Brief Overview of Ranchu Goldfish

Origins and Habitat

The story of Ranchu Goldfish (Carassius auratus) begins in ancient Japan, unlike other fancy goldfish that began in ancient China. They were developed from Chinese Lionhead Goldfish by skilled Japanese breeders. Today, modern day Ranchu Goldfish is found almost anywhere in the world, not just in China or Japan.

Ranchu’s aren’t wild fish, so we must look at their ancestors to learn about their natural habitat.

Like any other goldfish, they descended from an old species of wild carp, known commonly as the Gibel Carp, Silver Prussian carp, or simply Prussian Carp.

These wild carp thrive in slow-moving, slightly cold waters of ponds, lakes, and rivers. Ranchus also prefer similar water conditions and share a lot of traits with Prussian Carp and other goldfish.

What Does Ranchu Goldfish Look like?

It’s quite easy to identify Ranchu Goldfish as they have a rather unusual head growth, an egg-shaped body with a deeper belly, and a horizontally spreading caudal (tail) fin. Looking from the top view, they look a lot like moving worms when swimming. That’s where the name “Ranchu” comes from (which literally means “dutch worm” in Japanense).

Another striking feature of the Ranchu goldfish species is that they don’t have any dorsal fin, much like their Lionhead counterpart. However, Ranchus come with arched backs, unlike the flat backs of Lionhead specimens. Initially bred for top view, they look just as impressive when viewed from the sides nowadays.

They are available in a wide variety of colors, ranging from red, white, orange, blue to bi-colors like red-and-white, black and red, black and white, etc. Their scales is metallic, matte, or nacreous. So, a couple of differently-colored Ranchus will make your aquarium colorful and lively! Black ranchu goldfish are one of my personal favorites.

These fish are comparatively more delicate than other goldfish because of their unique anatomy. So, they are probably not the best option for beginner aquarists. Overall, the beautiful appearance and the unique swimming style of the Ranchu goldfish make them the perfect candidate for any goldfish aquarium.  

The rounded body and the lack of dorsal fin reduce the amount of control Ranchus have over their body when swimming. So, they can’t swim as efficiently as others. Swimming is more tiring for them as well, as you will often see them moving slowly and resting now and then to regain energy. Moreover, the wen or the head growth covers their eyes and makes it harder for them to see.

As a result, Ranchus aren’t good at competing for food. In a tank with fast swimmers and aggressive fish, they will be unable to feed and thrive. The Ranchu goldfish cannot tolerate pollution at all. They will be quick to pick up diseases if the water isn’t clean enough.

Thanks to their rounded body shape, they are highly vulnerable to swim bladder disease. Furthermore, the wen can easily get infected. If you don’t keep a Ranchu goldfish in a well-maintained fish tank with a high-quality aquarium filter, they won’t thrive. It doesn’t take much to stress them out and put them into shock. Their care requirements are much higher than others, so make sure to be extra careful and put more effort.

Brine shrimp, Daphnia, tubifex worms, blood worms, black worms, etc., are some of the most suitable foods for Ranchus. You should minimize the use of live foods as they often contain bacteria and parasites that can make them sick. Ranchus take longer to feed as they have poor vision due to their head growth. You will have to feed them several times a day but remember not to overfeed.

A favorite food staple is soaked pellets or freeze fried food supplemented with vita-chem. This is a great way to add much needed nutrients to common foods. Probiotics are also becoming more common place with food manufacturers with Companies like Cobalt leading the charge.

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Can They Live Alone?

The Ranchu, like any other goldfish, can live a long life in solitude. This breed of fish doesn’t mind living alone as long as they get enough food and decent water quality.  However, they are social animals, and they can benefit from social interaction. Ranchus love playing around with other fish as they enjoy companionship.

They love being social in groups. In fact, check out super-cute video of Ranchu goldfish playing football (As reported by the South China Morning Post) to see how fun they is to have around.

They will be visibly happier if you keep them together with other tank mates that won’t compete with them or harass them. So, it’s better to introduce similar types of fish in a Ranchu aquarium if you want the best for them. They do great in an all goldfish tank full of other fancy goldfish varieties.

How Big Can They Grow? What Tank Size Is Right for Them?

Fancy fish like the Ranchu Goldfish are developed to impress you with their shapes, not their sizes. With that being said, the average length of adult Ranchus is around 5”. However, under the right water conditions, they can grow even larger, up to 8 inches!

Learning the size is important because it determines what the tank size that houses them should be. You must make sure to provide them enough room where they can swim freely. In general, the minimum requirement for housing one full-grown Ranchu is 20 gallons.

However, you should start with 20-30 gallons if you want to ensure maximum comfort for your prized fish. Increase the tank size by 10-gallons every time you bring a new fish into the tank. Larger tanks are recommended because that will provide more space for them to swim, and you won’t have to deal with water changes as frequently.

Taking care of Ranchus will undoubtedly pay off. Even though these fish have low tolerance, they will stay healthy and active for a long time as long as you provide for them.

Additionally, you should keep them under constant monitoring. Look for any signs of diseases or discomfort. Perform water changes as often as required. If you notice any difference in their bodies, take action quickly to prevent them from suffering or dying.

Are They Aggressive?

The Ranchu Goldfish is anything but aggressive. They have an incredibly peaceful temperament, and they are rather friendly and cheerful. Their unique structure prevents them from being violent, anyway. For instance, they can’t swim all that fast and tire out pretty easily. They can’t see clearly with their eyes, often due to the growth in their heads. You won’t see them fighting other fish for food because they aren’t equipped to compete.

However, Ranchus do enjoy foraging for food. Make sure not to choose aggressive fishes as their tank mates if you don’t want your goldfish to struggle for survival and fail. They get along pretty well with other similarly morphed goldfish. You can feel free to house them together in an aquarium. Rest assured, they will not transform your tank into the Colosseum and fight each other to death!

How Much Do They Cost?

The price may also vary depending on factors like the size, source, age, etc. In general, you should be able to get your hands on one of them for 5 to 25 dollars from any local pet store or local breeders. However Japan’s “King of Goldfish” has garnered a lot of popularity over the decades with its fancy appearance. Ranchus are prized by many aquarists all over the world, and they are definitely in demand.

The most expensive Ranchus will be shipped directly from Japan or China. These are the most prized of all Ranchus and earn their moniker of “King of Goldfish. These types of Ranchus will easily commander prices of over $50 and can get much more expensive! Importing is how you obtain Ranchu Goldfish developed for competing in various Japanese shows. The video below by hendrink Nursalim shows a competition level Ranchu competing in Aquarama in 2011.

Competition Ranchu Goldfish tend to have more defining features, and their price can range from hundreds to thousands of dollars! You don’t need them unless you’re in the Ranchu Goldfish Enthusiasts category and planning to win one of those competitions. You will have to spend quite some money taking care of these types of goldfish, which you should consider.

No matter what type of fish you get, you must invest in creating and maintaining a proper diet plan for keeping them healthy. Rest assured, they are definitely worth the price.

Tank Requirement

If you’re a goldfish enthusiast, chances are you’ve already got a fancy goldfish aquarium. It might just be the perfect one for the king of goldfish from Japan! A Ranchu will flourish in a tank with slow-moving clean water, with suitable temperatures (65°. 72°). The recommended aquarium size for a single Ranchu is 20 to 30 gallons.

The pH range must be within 6.5 to 7.5, while the hardness range should be around 5 to 19 dGH. Make sure to keep the levels of ammonia, and nitrite close to zero. Nitrate should be maintained below 40 PPM.

Filtration and Water Quality

There should be a functioning water filtration system for these fish. Given the delicate nature of this fish, You should elect at minimum a quality hang on the back filter for smaller aquariums.

For larger fancy goldfish setups, you should consider an oversized canister filter to manage nitrates with a quality all-in-one biomedia like BioHome. Setting your filtration up like this ensure you have the most stable water quality to keep your Ranchus in excellent health.

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Goldfish Tank Environment

For creating a comfortable and natural environment, you should add a sand or fine gravel substrate. Ensure it’s safe and doesn’t pose any choking hazard because your fish will regularly dig around that part as they like foraging for food.

Feel free to decorate your aquarium but refrain from using anything with sharp edges and protruding tips. If you are using artificial plants, consider silk plants. If you are using aquarium rocks, consider rocks without sharp edges or round ones. Driftwood should be avoided unless you are rounding out edges and ensuring there is plenty of open room to swim.

You can add a variety of plants to make the environment appear more natural. Due to their digging habit, live plants may not always be suitable. Some great plants to consider for fancy goldfish would include:

• Java Fern
• Anubias
• Java Moss
• Water Sprite

Make sure to anchor your plants to rocks instead of the substrate. The difficulty with plants is why many choose to go with artificial plants.

The Ranchu has no dorsal fin. That is not decoration. It is a limitation. Swimming is harder, competing for food is harder, and keeping one with faster fish is a mistake.

Tank Mates

You must be careful in choosing suitable tank mates for the Ranchu Goldfish. They are best paired with other fancy goldfish such as:

• Black Moor Goldfish
• Oranda Goldfish
• Pearlscale Goldfish
• Fantail Goldfish
• Ryukin Goldfish

Final Words

Ranchu goldfish stand out easily from other fish aided by their unique body. The wen on their head, combined with their round body, and arched backs make them look special. You will be impressed at how lovely they appear when swimming, thanks to the horizontally spreading double tail.

If you take good care of these fish, your aquarium will be rightly populated with one of the fanciest goldfish you can find on the market. They will stay with you for a long time and keep you entertained! Ranchus keep a goldfish tank lively and entertaining. Consider adding these beautiful creatures! Leave a comment below if you think that we should add more information on how to care for them in this blog post.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.