Should You Remove It?

For the most part, only male betta fish create bubble nests once they’re ready to mate. While rare, it’s not unheard of for female betta fish to create nests of their own.

What Happens If You Destroy It?

For the most part, it won’t matter to your betta fish if you accidentally or purposefully destroy its nest. These nests regularly get disrupted in the wild and need to be rebuilt. If your fish is determined, then it will simply build another nest when it’s ready.

Do They Go Away On Their Own?

Nothing will happen if you destroy your betta’s bubble nest. Your fish won’t hate you or get stressed out. Betta fish can be quite resilient and determined if they need to be and will quickly rebuild their nest if they’re ready.

Is This Type Safe For Fish?

On it’s own, distilled water is not safe for fish. Distilled water lacks trace elements and materials that are essential to the lives of your aquatic inhabitants. You can use a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks or marine salt mix for saltwater tanks to get these missing elements back into your water.

For freshwater tanks, the best for the money is tap water treated with a decholorinator. For planted tanks or sensitive fish like Discus Fish, RO or distilled water that is mineralized work great. For reef tanks, RODI water is the best.

Can I Top Off My Tanks With this type of water?

Yes, you can top off your fish tank with distilled water. Trace elements and minerals remain in your aquarium when water evaporates. You are just replacing the lost water, which makes distilled water okay to use for top off.

Is Spring Water Better For Tanks?

Distilled Water that is remineralized would be a better choice. Spring water’s make up can differ from brand to brand, which can cause shock to your fish. Distilled will be a more consistent source – just remineralize it.

How Do You Remineralize Water?

You can purchase a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks. For saltwater tanks, marine salt mix will remineralize your water.

Can freshwater fish live in this?

True freshwater fish should not be kept in brackish water. Many freshwater species will survive for varying amounts of time in brackish water, but it will certainly put them under stress and reduce their lifespan.

What fish can live in both salt and freshwater?

There are a few aquarium fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater. These types of fish are called euryhaline species. Most of these species are at home somewhere in between these two environments, however. Mollies are fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater.

What freshwater fish can survive in this type?

Mollies, guppies, and Endler’s livebearers are all fish that people tend to think of as freshwater species. In fact, all of these species are perfectly at home in brackish water.

Can Guppies live in brackish water?

Guppies are very comfortable in brackish water. In fact, scientific studies have shown that these fish can even live in saltwater.

Some popular aquarium shrimp species like cherry and Amano shrimps can survive in very low-level brackish water. Ghost shrimp often thrive in brackish aquariums, however.

How do I get rid of it in my aquarium?

Controlling black beard algae in your aquarium can be tough. Figuring out the cause of the problem, making some changes, and then killing the algae with careful chemical treatments is the best course of action to solve this problem.

Is It Harmful To Fish?

Black beard algae are not harmful to your fish. Some types of fish, like Siamese algae eaters, will even feed on BBA.

Why does my aquarium have it?

If you have black beard algae in your aquarium, it was probably introduced with live plants or animals from another fish tank. If the conditions are right, these algae can grow and multiply quite quickly.

Some types of snails have been reported to feed on black beard algae. Ramshorn snails in particular can be very effective at controlling black algae. The only downside to these snails is that they have a habit of multiplying fast!

Apart from fish species like the Siamese algae eater that feed on black beard algae, the best way to kill it is to dose or spot treat with hydrogen peroxide or liquid carbon dioxide products like Seachem Excel.

Can They Survive With A Warm Tank?

Yes, Betta fish can survive with a heater. It’s a requirement to install a heater in Betta’s tank as they require temperatures ranging from 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.

How Can I Keep Them Warm Without A System?

You can keep your Bettas warm without a heater. However, it’s not advisable as temperature fluctuations can even kill your pet fish. Still, there are a few ways to keep them warm without installing a heater. – Use a heating mat – Cover the tank properly – Use strong tank lights – Add insulation layers – Thermometer to monitor the water temperature of betta’s tank

How Do I Know They Are Cold?

Here are some of the symptoms of cold temperature shock in your bettas. – Restless, erratic swimming – Resting at the bottom of the tan k – Lethargic behavior – Rapid breathing – Staying at the surface

What Is The Coolest Temperature A They Can Live In?

The ideal temperature range for your betta is 72- 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above or below these ranges is detrimental to your tropical fish. Therefore, I recommend maintaining the temperature below 75 degrees Fahrenheit but it shouldn’t fall below 70 degrees at any cost.

Tag: Freshwater

Ram Cichlid: Complete Care Guide (Care, Tank Mates, and Breeding)

The Reality of Keeping Ram Cichlid

Let me be honest with you. Rams are one of the most returned fish in the aquarium trade. They are stunning, and that is what sells them. But beauty does not equal easy.

Three colors, one fragile fish.

They need warm, soft, acidic water. Rams need temperatures between 82 and 86F with a pH under 7.0 and very low hardness. If your tap water is hard and alkaline, you are fighting an uphill battle from day one. Trying to keep rams in water with a pH of 7.8 is a recipe for stress and disease.

They are fragile when stressed. Rams have almost zero tolerance for ammonia or nitrite. Even a small spike that other fish would shrug off will kill a ram. Your tank needs to be fully cycled and stable for weeks before you add these fish.

Breeding stock quality varies wildly. Most rams in pet stores come from mass breeding operations in Asia where they are pumped full of hormones and antibiotics. These fish look incredible in the store but often crash within days of being brought home. Buying from a reputable breeder costs more but dramatically improves your odds.

They are not community fish in the traditional sense. Rams need peaceful, slow-moving tank mates that will not outcompete them for food or stress them with aggression. Fast, nippy fish like tiger barbs will make a ram’s life miserable.

Biggest Mistake New Ram Cichlid Owners Make

Putting them in an uncycled or newly cycled tank. Rams need a mature, stable ecosystem. If your tank has been running less than two months, it is not ready for rams. Period.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

Buy from a breeder, not a chain store. Start with a proven pair if you want to breed. Keep the temperature at 84F and never let it drop below 80F. These three things alone will double your success rate with rams.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate

German blue rams require stable temperatures of 78-84 degrees F (26-29 degrees C), soft acidic water, and a mature tank. They are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, and elevated nitrates. Not for beginners or new tanks.

Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid
Classification
Ram Cichlids Appearance
How Big Are They?
How Long Do They Live?
Temperament and Activity Level
Tank Mates
Aquarium Requirements
Breeding
What do They Eat?
Diseases
Different Types
3 Main Sources
FAQs
Final Thoughts

Ram cichlids are beautiful, delicate, and unforgiving. They need pristine water, elevated temperatures, and rock solid stability. One parameter swing and they stop eating. Two and they are dead. I have watched experienced keepers lose rams because they treated them like any other dwarf cichlid. They are not. Rams demand precision, and they punish anything less. All commercially bred ram variants are weakened by hormone treatments and inbreeding. That makes them the most frequently killed dwarf cichlid by new keepers.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Ram Cichlid

The number one mistake I see with ram cichlids is people treating them like any other hardy tropical fish. They’re not. Rams are sensitive to water quality in ways that most beginner fish aren’t, and they absolutely need warm water. 80°F minimum, ideally 82-84°F. I’ve seen countless rams die within weeks of purchase because they were kept at 76-78°F in a standard community tank. The other common misconception is lumping all ram varieties together. German blue rams, Bolivian rams, and electric blue rams have meaningfully different care requirements, especially regarding temperature tolerance and hardiness.

German blue rams are one of the most visually stunning dwarf cichlids you can keep. And one of the most frequently killed by hobbyists who underestimate their water chemistry requirements. I’ve kept rams over the years and the pattern I see is always the same: someone buys them because they look incredible in the store, puts them in a standard community tank at 76°F, and loses them within a few weeks. Rams want warm, soft, slightly acidic water. 82 to 86°F is the sweet spot. Get that right, along with stable parameters, and they’re genuinely rewarding fish with real personality. This guide covers everything: care, compatible tank mates, and what it actually takes to breed them.

The Ram or dwarf Cichlid is a stunning and tranquil freshwater fish species that have been observed for over 30 years. They go by many names, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Blue ram, Butterfly ram, Ram ramirezi, and Dwarf cichlid. All these names lead to one beautiful fish species, belonging to the family Cichlidae and originating in South America, mostly in Amazon and Orinoco river extensions.

Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid

Scientific Name	Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
Common Names	Ram Cichlid, blue ram, German blue ram, Asian ram, butterfly cichlid, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, dwarf butterfly cichlid, and Ramirezi
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	South America
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate-Advanced
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	3 – 4 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Mid to bottom
Minimum Tank Size	30 gallons
Temperature Range	75 ° to 82 °F
Water Hardness	6-14 d GH
pH Range	5.0 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Subfamily	Geophaginae
Genus	Mikrogeophagus
Species	M. Ramirezi (Myers & Harry, 1948)

Ram Cichlids Appearance

Ram cichlid are small dwarf cichlids with large fins that overshadow their oval-shaped bodies.

Ram cichlid has vibrant reddish-orange, red and yellow spots all over their body with bright red eyes and a black band running through them. Due to their unique coloration and outstanding patterns, they make a great addition to your community aquarium.

In ram cichlids, the male rams are larger in length and possess the biggest dorsal fin. Because of their flowy dorsal fins and colorful appearance, they are commonly called butterfly cichlids.

How Big Are They?

Ram cichlids fall under the dwarf cichlids category. Therefore, they can never grow larger than 2-3 inches in captivity. However, in the wild, Ram cichlids are known to reach a maximum of 7 to 8 inches in length.

How Long Do They Live?

In captivity, the ram cichlid lives for up to 4 or 5 years. Even though hardy creatures, ram cichlids demand extreme care and a properly cleaned tank. Otherwise, they can develop deadly diseases such as fish tuberculosis. If ram cichlids are not provided with ample care and maintenance, they can also die of stress.

The lifespan of Ram cichlids depends on many factors such as water quality, diet, water parameters and temperature, pH and water hardness, and above all, the overall health.

Temperament and Activity Level

Ram cichlids are community tank fish with a peaceful nature. However, some types such as Bolivian rams can get semi-aggressive and territorial, when they feel their territories are being invaded.

Ram cichlids are average swimmers and quick at hiding in their favorite spots to catch prey to eat. Therefore, an aquarium should be well-planted with lots of aquatic plants and hiding places such as driftwood, caves, rocks, etc.

Tank Mates

No matter how agile and peaceful Ram cichlids are, you cannot keep them with any other fish. Here are the 15 most suitable tank mates for your ram cichlid.

Aquarium Requirements

Ram cichlids are very particular about their living environment. If the fish tank doesn’t meet all the requirements, ram cichlid can go into stress and eventually die. Therefore, it is imperative to take preventive measures and provide them with optimal conditions.

Tank Size

Even though ram cichlids are dwarf cichlids, they require plenty of swimming space. Therefore, go for a tank that is at least 20 gallons or more. It also depends on the number of fish you want to keep. If you’re aiming for more than one male, opt for a 29-gallon tank. One other reason to keep them in a large aquarium is they are highly sensitive to nitrates and prefer a gentle flow. So, more water and a larger tank ensure the maximum health of your rams.

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Not just that, they appreciate regular water changes, and so I recommend installing a premium quality canister filter to raise a healthy ram cichlid.

Water Parameters

One thing I can safely say about these cichlids is they don’t need a chiller, but a heater would suffice their needs.

Ram cichlids are tropical fish that thrive in warm water temperatures of around 78 to 85 °F. Therefore, I recommend installing a high-quality heater to provide them with the optimal temperature. Also, your rams will live happily if you create a natural environment for them. For this, fish experts suggest putting a fine substrate and plenty of plants with lots of hiding places in the form of rocks and caves for hiding or breeding.

Tank Setup

A ram cichlid is very susceptible to certain chemicals and rapid changes in its environment. All these rapid changes and traces of chemicals can cause piscine (fish tuberculosis) which is fatal and inevitable if water quality is ignored.

As far as the lighting is concerned, a ram cichlid prefers dim lights. If you have plants, I recommend using adjustable LED lights, low light plants, or getting floating plants to provide them with suitable shade without affecting your plants.

Since ram cichlid are sensitive, make sure to check the levels of ammonia and nitrates in their tank and change the water weekly to ensure quality.

Breeding

To ensure the successful breeding of ram cichlid in their breeding season, make sure to provide soft water conditions by adding a small bag of rinsed peat to your canister filter. Also, make sure to keep the water pH neutral within recommended temperature range as ideal water conditions increase their activity level and improve the chances of breeding.

In the natural habitat, a ram cichlid is a known open spawner, which means they create family groups and lay around 150 to 200 eggs approx.

Adult rams are difficult to pair with and costly as well. The cheaper and more effective way is to get juveniles and let them grow and pair together. Since they are monogamous pairs, I recommend keeping the breeding pair in a separate breeding tank for spawning.

Additionally, make sure to keep the water warmer in the breeding tank by around 2 to 3°F and more acidic with a slow water flow.

You can also feed the breeding pair with live food, such as blood worms, white worms, and brine shrimp as a treat once a day.

The Birth Process

Before keeping ram or dwarf cichlid, be informed that they do not lay eggs at all, if they are stressed during breeding. Rams only lay eggs when they are relaxed and devoid of other distractions. When their females are pregnant, their pink bellies become visibly fat and a female blue ram cichlid lay eggs under large, flat rocks and demands complete solitude. Hence, you need to to keep the pregnant female in a separate tank, no matter how peaceful they are.

Your tank setup and parameters should also be adjusted according to the liking of your breeding pair. The water should be of a neutral pH to slightly higher for optimal breeding and the temperature should be raised than the usual temperature which is around 77°F and 82°F. The warmer temperatures increase activity and improve the chances of successful breeding.

In cichlids, both mother and father fish raise the fry, which is unique for freshwater fish species. The fry rests in father ram’s mouth if they sense any potential danger and you should pay special attention to the fry because they is swept into the filter.

What do They Eat?

Feeding rams with high-quality food that is rich in protein is quintessential for successful breeding and raising healthy, happy rams.

Since ram cichlid is omnivorous, it relies on plants and meat. In their natural habitat, they feed on floating plants and small insects, larvae, and other invertebrates.

However, seasoned aquarists recommend feeding them brine shrimp, earthworms, artemia, blood worms, tubifex, white worms, and cyclopeeze. But bear in mind that the live food should be free of contaminants like bacteria, fungus, etc to avoid diseases and other health-related issues.

I don’t recommend pellets and flakes on a daily. However, if you’re feeding them commercial food, make sure it sinks as butterfly cichlids are not surface dwellers. Also, incorporate plants and vegetables in their diet and feed them two to five small portions of meals several times a week. This also helps preserve the quality of water.

If your butterfly cichlid is new to the tank, it will be timid at the feeding time and may completely refuse to eat as they settle in its new fish tank. To cater to this, isolate the fish and feed them with treats such as mosquito larvae and start establishing their regular diet.

Diseases

Like most fish, rams are also vulnerable to tropical fish diseases, especially to poor water quality and stress that weakens their immune system.

One common disease in ram cichlids is ich, which is treated by increasing the water temperature to 86ºF for three days.

The butterfly cichlids are also susceptible to:

Parasitic infestations
Bacterial infections
Fungal infections
Tuberculosis
In addition to these, these fish species can also develop Costia diseases, flatworm, and tapeworm infestations.

Different Types

Among the plethora of strains of Ram cichlids, there are four common types that aquarists love.

German Blue Rams

German blue ram cichlids are very popular among the aquarists because they are not only beautiful but docile and peaceful community tank fish. Like other ram cichlids, German blue rams are bred in captivity and are small fish around 2.5 inches with a calm personality.

German blue rams originate from the river basins of Orinoco, in the savannas of Venezuela, Colorado, and South America. The main body of a German blue ram cichlid is divided into three prominent colors mainly orange, gold, and turquoise blue. Additionally, there’s a black striped line on their face that covers their vivid orange eyes. The fins of German blue rams have blue mottling and a black dot on their midriff.

German blue rams live with other community tank fishes peacefully. However, they are territorial and aggressive fish, especially when other fish try to invade their territories. However, German blue rams are known to be good parents that do not abandon their fry hatch.

Bolivian

Bolivian Ram cichlids are the largest of all ram cichlids that can reach up to inches in length. They are also available in the wild.

They originate from the Amazon river basins, especially in Brazil and Bolivia. Hence, the name. They are found in slow-moving streams, rivers, lakes, and pools with densely populated vegetation that protects them from predators and provides them with food.

Bolivian rams demand larger tanks of no less than 30 gallons and the tank size is crucial to the health of this fish. They also love densely planted aquariums with an appropriate substrate so they can continue their regular foraging activities.

The bodies of Bolivian ram cichlids have a simple base, mainly yellow or golden. However, the most prominent feature of these ram cichlids is the red highlights along with their fins. Due to this, they are also known as the red ram cichlid.

Bolivian rams are popularly known for their sifting behavior as they love sifting through the substrate for food. The recommended diet of these ram cichlids should contain pellets, flakes, chopped brine shrimp, blood worms, earthworms, and other protein content. Seasoned aquarists discourage feeding them live food as it will contaminate the water and spread fatal infections.

Fun Fact: The scientific name of Bolivian Ram Cichlid is not Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, as it is a different species, known as Mikrogeophagus altispinosus.

Golden Ram Cichlids

Like German blue ram, gold rams are also dwarf cichlids that reach a maximum of 2.5 inches overall with a light golden body and electric blue mottling on the fin. The dorsal fin of gold rams is spiky and they have pale eyes with a black pupil. Out of the four ram cichlids, golden rams are the lesser known and like Bolivian Rams, they are also found in a natural habitat.

The Golden Ram cichlid originates from the Rio Orinoco drainage within Venezuela and Colombia and they are found in pairs.

Like most cichlid species, the golden ram is a wonderful, colorful, and peaceful fish that is suitable for a community aquarium. However, it becomes territorial sometimes. They require a lot of swimming space in a fish tank with ample plantations and hiding places. They are omnivorous, so should be fed a decent diet balanced with protein and occasional treats of live food.

Electric Blue

Electric blue rams (video source) are so much like their wild-caught cousins, but the differences lie in their coloration. The electric blue ram cichlids are radiant-blue in color with red patches around their body. Their eyes are orangish yellow along the forehead and that’s the most beautiful feature of electric blue rams.

The electric blue ram cichlids are popular in the aquarium trade since 2009 with their ovoid body and long spiky fins like blue rams. Unlike other dwarf cichlids, the electric blue rams are not suitable for beginners as they are more sensitive than other cichlid species.

Also, an electric blue ram is a very shy fish that hides in caves, rocks, or other hiding places when they feel bullied or threatened.

3 Main Sources

If you want a Ram fish for your aquarium, you can source it from:

Local breeders or tradeshows
Overseas fish farms
Domestic fish farms (from your own country; from Florida)

There are many fish stores that sell Ram cichlid. However, these cichlids will most likely be imported from overseas. Imported cichlids will appear brighter with longer fins, but sometimes, they are artificially boosted by several hormones to enhance their vibrancy and overall appearance. However, the use of such hormones may adversely affect the life span of your cichlids.

If you wish to get a Ram Cichlid from domestic farms, be informed that they are mostly bred in Florida. It is better to get your Ram cichlids from domestic farms than an overseas farm, as they are in a much better condition.

But I recommend getting your aquarium buddies from a local breeder since they are kept in water conditions and environments similar to yours. Hence, they live and thrive in your home aquariums.

How to Pick a Healthy Fish?

So, you’ve made a decision to bring home a Ram cichlid? Great. But you should know how to pick a healthy one to avoid hazards.

Select a healthy-looking, active ram cichlid that eats and swims well
Pick the ones that compete with other rams for a great spawning site
Avoid choosing skinny or shrunken rams with a hollow belly

If you’re looking for a breeding pair, aquarium breeders suggest getting a colorful make with extended dorsal fins and great pectoral fins. And if you find the female already paired with the male ram cichlid, get them; as there are higher chances of successful breeding.

How to Distinguish between Male and Female?

To distinguish between a male and female ram cichlid, always remember:

Females have tiny, bright blue dots inside their black spots on the sides of their bodies
Males lack these dots on their black spots.

FAQs

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Ram cichlids require a large tank for free swimming space, easy feeding, and successful breeding. Therefore, a pair of ram fish can be kept in a 20- gallon community tank or an in a 10- gallon breeding rank with no other tank mates.

You can add multiple rams in a community tank but you have to increase the aquarium size according to the number of pairs. For example, a 40-gallon tank should accommodate 2 pairs of rams.

What Do They Eat?

Blue rams are omnivorous so they prefer a mix of both; leafy plant and meaty proteins. Seasoned aquarists recommend feeding them brine shrimp, earthworms, artemia, blood worms, tubifex, white worms, and cyclopeeze. But bear in mind that the live food should be free of contaminants like bacteria, fungus, etc to avoid diseases and other health-related issues.

Can I Keep A Single One?

Rams are community tank fish and thrive well with other like-minded tank mates, but you can keep a single ram cichlid as long as you provide them with ample space, nutritious food, and lots of hiding places to forage and play.

How Big Do They Get?

Ram cichlids fall under the dwarf category so they don’t get beyond 2-3 inches in captivity.

Can You Mix Them Together?

Yes, you can. However, please understand the needs of different cichlid types before mixing them together. Rams prefer warmer water temperatures that don’t go well with other fish. Also, choose a larger community tank of over 40 gallons to house multiple rams together.

How Long Do T hey live?

In captivity, the ram cichlid lives for up to 4 or 5 years. However, the lifespan of German blue rams highly depends on various factors, such as water quality, diet, water parameters and temperature, pH and water hardness, and above all, overall health.

Is the Ram Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

Ideal if you want a stunning dwarf cichlid centerpiece. Few freshwater fish match the color and personality of a healthy ram cichlid.
Not recommended for brand-new fishkeepers. Their sensitivity to water quality and temperature makes them a poor first fish.
Great for planted tanks. Rams thrive in well-planted setups and won’t destroy your plants like larger cichlids will.
Skip if you can’t maintain stable warm temperatures. If your tank regularly drops below 80°F, rams will struggle and eventually get sick.
Good for experienced community keepers. They work well with small tetras, corydoras, and other peaceful species in a warm tank.
Consider a Bolivian ram instead if you want something hardier. Bolivians tolerate cooler water and wider parameters while offering similar personality.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Ram Cichlid

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They are surprisingly interactive. Rams will learn your feeding schedule and come to the front glass when they see you. They pick through substrate constantly, rearrange small decorations, and display for each other throughout the day.

Breeding behavior takes over the tank. When a pair bonds and starts breeding, they become intensely territorial and will chase everything away from their chosen spawning site. A peaceful tank becomes a war zone overnight.

They color up dramatically under the right conditions. A ram in a bare, stressed-out pet store tank looks nothing like a ram in a planted, warm, dimly lit aquarium. The transformation is one of the most dramatic in freshwater fishkeeping.

They have a hierarchy. In groups, rams establish a clear pecking order. The dominant pair gets the best territory, and subordinates get pushed to the edges. You need enough space and hiding spots to make this work.

How the Ram Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

The most common comparison is between the ram cichlid (German blue ram) and the Bolivian ram. Having kept both extensively, I can tell you they’re different fish in almost every way that matters for daily care. German blue rams need water at 82-84°F, soft and acidic conditions, and pristine water quality. Bolivian rams are comfortable at 72-79°F, tolerate a wider pH range, and forgive the occasional missed water change. If you’re newer to fishkeeping or run a cooler community tank, the Bolivian ram is the smarter choice. German blue rams are more colorful, but that beauty comes with a higher maintenance cost.

The apistogramma genus is the other natural comparison for anyone shopping dwarf cichlids. Apistos offer incredible variety. There are hundreds of species and color forms. And many are hardier than German blue rams. They are more territorial during breeding but less demanding on temperature. If you want a dwarf cichlid that gives you breeding behavior and personality without the temperature sensitivity of a German blue ram, a hardy apisto species like A. Cacatuoides is worth considering.

Final Thoughts

Rams do not give second chances. Your tank is either perfect or they die.

Ram cichlids are very small fish around 2-3 inches in length. Despite their size, they require immaculate attention and care. Therefore, make sure to provide at least 20 gallons tank with lots of hiding places and aquatic plants to raise healthy and happy rams.

South American Cichlid Species Directory

This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

May 16, 2022

Chili Rasbora: Complete Care Guide for the Hobby’s Most Striking Nano Fish

Hard Rule

Chili rasboras cannot share a tank with fish larger than 1 inch (2.5 cm). At their tiny adult size, even neon tetras can stress or eat them. Keep them in a dedicated nano setup with shrimp or other micro fish only.

Chili rasboras are one of the most beautiful nano fish you can keep. But in the wrong setup, they disappear completely and never show their true color. I have seen people buy a school of 12, add them to a bright, bare tank, and wonder why they never see them. The fish are there. They are just hiding, stressed, and washed out. Build the right tank and chili rasboras are breathtaking. Skip the setup work and you have invisible fish you paid premium prices for.

Do not add chili rasboras to a tank that has been running for less than three months. They need mature water. Period.

Why Chili Rasboras Do Not Look Good in Most Tanks

Most people who buy chili rasboras never see the fish at their best. The problem is almost always the setup, not the fish.

Too few fish. Keep fewer than 10 and they hide constantly. Their confidence comes from numbers. A school of 6 looks terrible. A school of 15 transforms the tank.

Too much light. Bright lighting washes out their red. They look best under moderate or diffused light with a dark substrate underneath.

Not enough plants. Without dense planting they have nowhere to feel safe. They retreat to corners and you never see their natural swimming behavior.

Wrong tank mates. Anything bigger than 2 inches makes them nervous. They need dedicated nano setups or very carefully chosen companions.

Chili rasboras do not stand out. They come alive when the tank is built around them.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Chili Rasbora

The most common mistake I see with chili rasboras is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Chili Rasboras look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, chili rasboras are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything. In my experience, keeping them closer to their natural soft, slightly acidic conditions brings out the best color and longevity.

Expert Take

Never keep chili rasboras in groups smaller than 10. The commonly recommended minimum of 6 is not enough. In my experience, 10 is where they start acting like chili rasboras instead of acting like scared fish hiding behind a filter.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1/2 – Beginner-Intermediate

Chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae) are tiny (0.7 inches/1.8 cm) micro fish that need established, mature tanks and calm nano tank mates. Their small size makes them incompatible with most community fish.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Boraras brigittae
Common Names	Chili rasbora, Mosquito rasbora
Family	Cyprinidae
Origin	Borneo, Southeast Asia
Diet	Carnivorous
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Active
Lifespan	up to 8 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Midwater
Minimum Tank Size	5 gallons (10G recommended!)
Temperature Range	70 ° to 82 °F
Water Hardness	3 to 12 dkH
pH Range	4 to 7
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Kingdom	Animalia
Phylum	Chordata
Class	Actinopterygii
Order	Cypriniformes
Family	Cyprinidae
Genus	Boraras
Species	B. Brigittae (Vogt, 1978)

Origins and Habitat

Chili rasboras are native to Borneo in Southeast Asia. Their natural habitat consists of pools in blackwater streams with extremely soft, and quite acidic water.

The water is often full of aquatic and floating plants and partially shaded by the forest trees above. Plenty of leaf litter accumulates in the water and stains it a dark color, creating quite a dim environment.

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is the most popular of a few closely related Boraras species. If the word ‘boraras’ sounds a little fishy, that’s because it’s an anagram of the word r-a-s-b-o-r-a. Who says fish scientists aren’t fun?

What Do They Look Like?

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is a tiny nano fish with bold looks. The first impression when seeing this species is a very small, reddish fish with bold markings and huge eyes.

The males have deeper color but are smaller and more slender than the females, which also have rounder bellies. Dominant male chili rasboras become especially colorful, turning a deep red shade.

There is a characteristic black stripe on the sides of the fish’s body which can shine blueish green in good light. Just above this black stripe, you’ll notice a bright red or orange line.

Another stand-out feature is the red patch on the fish’s gill plate. This makes these nano schooling fish look like they have rosy cheeks!

To top it off, chili rasboras have great-looking fins. The base of their tail, and their dorsal and anal fins also have black and orange spots and markings.

How Big Are They?

If you thought something like a neon tetra or a guppy was small, just wait until you meet the chili rasbora! Chili rasboras are one of the smallest fish in the hobby, maxing out at less than an inch in total length.

In fact, a full-grown adult will only reach about 0.8 inches with good care. The male chili rasbora is slightly smaller and slimmer in build than the female.

How Long Do They Live?

Chili rasboras have a surprisingly long lifespan for such a small fish. In the right conditions, these hardy fish can live for up to 8 years!

To keep your fish living longer, make sure you provide them with a healthy and varied diet, a comfortable tank setup, and perform regular maintenance to keep your water quality pristine.

Temperament And Activity Level

The chili rasbora is a pretty outgoing and confident little fish if kept in the right kind of tank setup. With larger fish as tank mates, however, chili rasboras are timid.

They spend most of their time up around the middle and top levels of the aquarium, but they show up just about anywhere too. The chili rasbora is known as a schooling fish and they are very social, although they do not always group tightly.

Chili rasboras are very peaceful fish, so you don’t need to worry about them picking on any other fish in a community tank.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

The chili rasbora is a tiny fish, which can make choosing suitable tank mates a little challenging. Many fish keepers prefer to keep chili rasboras in species-only aquariums because they work so great in schools in nano tanks.

These fish will get along with most other peaceful fish, however, as long as they are not big enough to eat your rasboras.

Read on to learn more about the best (and worst) tank mates for chili rasboras.

Best Tank Mates

The best tank mates for chili rasboras are other peaceful nano fish. Let’s take a look at some of the best tank mates for these amazing fish:

Least Compatible Fish

Chili rasboras are so small that many of the most popular tropical aquarium fish will likely swallow them whole. As a general rule, avoid keeping them, with anything over about 2.5 inches long.

You’ll also want to avoid any predatory fish, aggressive fin-nippers, and boisterous species that could outcompete them for food.

Here are a few common aquarium fish that will not make good tank mates for chili rasboras:

Cichlids, except for rams
Most catfish
Angelfish
Goldfish
Golden wonder killifish
Tiger barbs
Oscars

Inverts

The chili rasbora is one of the safest fish to keep with dwarf shrimp. That being said, they are micro-predators so they will feed on tiny baby shrimp that have just hatched. If you plan on breeding your shrimp, a shrimp-only setup would be wiser.

Here are some shrimp that you can keep with the chili rasbora:

You can also keep snails with your chili rasboras. Snails do a terrific job of keeping an aquarium clean, but some species can really multiply fast. Nerite snails are a great choice because they look amazing, eliminate algae, and best of all, they won’t breed in your fish tank!

What Do They Eat?

The Chili rasbora is a micro predator that feeds on tiny insects and bugs. The name mosquito rasbora is probably a good clue as to what these tiny fish love to feed on in nature.

Think small when looking for food for these fish. They will do great on a diet of fish flakes and nano pellets, but supplementing with live/frozen foods will bring out the best condition and color in these nano fish. A good micro pellet formula is Xtreme Aquatics Foods Nano.

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Let’s take a look at some of the types of food you can feed the chili rasbora:

Prepared Foods

Crushed flakes
Micro pellets

Live & Frozen Foods

Daphnia
Tubifex
Chopped bloodworms
White worms
Micro worms
Mosquito larvae
Baby brine shrimp

How Much And How Often To Feed Your Fish

Chili rasboras need to be fed regularly, at least once a day. It is better to feed these tiny fish small amounts two or three times a day, however.

The chili rasbora is often kept in nano tanks as small as 5 gallons, but this makes overfeeding especially dangerous. A bunch of uneaten food in such a small volume of water can cause dangerous ammonia spikes.

So how do you know how much to feed your fish?

When you go to feed your chili rasboras, watch them eat- they should finish all the food in just a minute or two. Feeding them this amount 2 or 3 times a day is a great way to keep your fish well-fed, without creating too much waste.

Setting Up Your Fish Tank

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is right at home in a nano tank. They do best in a planted tank with a dark substrate and low water flow. Chili rasboras love live plants, and floating types are a great choice.

Read on to learn more about how to set up a great chili rasbora tank!

Tank Size

The chili rasbora is one of the smallest freshwater fish in the aquarium trade, so they make a great choice for fish keepers who don’t have a lot of space.

A small group of these nano fish can thrive in tanks as small as 5 gallons. This would be the minimum tank size, however, and if you’re new to fish keeping, I’d recommend a larger tank like a 10 or 15-gallon.

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Remember, the smaller an aquarium, the faster things can go wrong, so go slightly bigger to be on the safe side. A ten-gallon tank, for example, will be easier to maintain and allow you to keep an awesome little school of about 20 of these fish quite safely.

Plants

Chili rasboras do really well in a planted aquarium. Not only will your fish feel more at home between the leaves and roots, but live plants also have a number of great benefits when it comes to maintaining the high water quality these fish need.

If you’re not already a planted tank enthusiast, consider picking up some common and easy to grow species like:

These aquarium plants don’t need much maintenance and they won’t take over your tank too fast. Down the road you can look at improving your lighting, picking up some aquascaping tools, and investing in a CO2 injection system. I must warn you though, that the planted aquarium hobby can be addictive!

Go ahead and browse through some of the great plant care articles on this website to learn more about specific species and their care.

Substrate

Chili rasboras look (and feel) their best when kept over a dark substrate. You can use a fine gravel or sand substrate as long as it is well rinsed and aquarium safe. If you plan on setting up a heavily planted tank, an aquarium soil would be a great option.

Decor

Chili rasboras like plenty of structure in their environment where they can hide out from predators. Fine driftwood like spider wood is great because it mimics the tangled roots and branches these fish are used to in their natural habitat.

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Water Quality

The chili rasbora is actually really adaptable to a wide range of parameters, but they do require good water quality. They should never be added to an uncycled aquarium or kept in a tank with unstable or poor water quality. Consider doing a fishless cycle to make sure you start on the right foot.

Filtration

Filtration is vital because the chili rasbora requires, stable, high-quality water with zero nitrites and ammonia. This means your aquarium needs to be cycled before you introduce your fish.

If you’re not sure how to cycle a new aquarium, go ahead and check out my article on aquarium cycling to learn everything you need to know about this vital step!

The type of filter you choose is not that important as long as it is a good size for your tank. The most important factor to consider is that chili rasboras are tiny and they will get blown around in a strong current. They can also be sucked into strong filter intakes, so you might want to choose a model that has a prefilter sponge.

Water Parameters

The chili rasbora prefers a water temperature anywhere between 70°F and 82°F, with something around the middle of this range probably being ideal. Use a heater to keep the temperature stable in your tank.

These fish prefer soft water that is slightly acidic. Aim for the following parameters:

pH: 4-7
GH: 1-2
KH: 3-12dKH

The chili rasbora needs really good water quality in order to thrive. Your water test results should always read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and less than 20 ppm nitrates.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is the only way to keep nano tanks clean and safe for your fish. Performing a partial water change of 20-30% per week is a good way to keep nitrate levels in a safe range.

Be sure to remove any dead or dying plant matter, and suck up the dirt and waste that accumulates on your substrate with a gravel vacuum. If necessary, you can also rinse out your filter sponge media in the water you have just taken out of the tank. Remember to look after those precious beneficial bacteria!

Your tap water probably contains chemicals like chlorine or chloramine that are added to keep the water safe for human use. Unfortunately, these chemicals are toxic to fish, so make sure you use a water conditioner to neutralize the harmful effects.

Testing

The only way to know for sure if your maintenance schedule is appropriate is to test your aquarium water. Get yourself a test kit that can measure the following parameters:

Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
pH
GH
KH

Test kits are really easy (and fun) to use. They work either by adding a drop of solution to some aquarium water in a test tube or by simply dipping a strip into your tank. All you need to do next is watch for the solution or strip to change color, and compare the results with the provided chart.

You should test your aquarium water before introducing your fish. This way you will know what your pH and water hardness are out of the tap.

If your tap water pH and hardness are too high, you need to use rainwater or RO water in your tank. Avoid using distilled water that is not remineralized.

Breeding

Breeding rasboras at home is a fun hobby that anyone can do with the right knowledge. Building up a big school can be a slow process, however, because these tiny fish only lay a few eggs at a time. Here is a wonderful video above by Mark’s Aquatics that goes into great detail. I have a few summary points below. Here’s what you need to know:

Sexing

Before you can breed these fish, you’ll need to make sure you have both males and females. The female chili rasbora grows a little larger than the males and will also have a rounder belly. Dominant male chili rasboras will turn a bright and deep shade of red.

How They Breed

The chili rasbora is an egg-scattering fish that doesn’t show any parental care. This means they won’t look after their eggs or fry. If your fish are happy in their tank and in good condition, they will start breeding on their own and you might even spot some babies after a while.

If you want to breed this species in a more controlled way, you’re going to want to set up a separate breeding tank. The breeding tank only needs to hold 3 gallons or so, and a small sponge filter will work great for aerating the water and maintaining water quality.

Conditioning And Breeding Your Fish

Start by feeding your fish high-quality foods like micro worms and brine shrimp for a few days to bring them into peak condition.

Next, add some well-conditioned adults to your breeding tank and if they are happy, the female chili rasbora should lay eggs after a day or so. Remove the breeding fish and the eggs will start to hatch after about 2 days.

Raising Fry

Chili rasbora fry need to be fed from their second day after hatching. Feed them infusoria. The fry are very small after hatching, so wait at least a week before doing a water change to avoid sucking them up by accident.

Health & Disease

The chili rasbora is known to be hardy fish, but like any species, they are susceptible to various health problems. Read on to learn how to evaluate your fish’s health, and which problems to look out for.

Evaluating Your Their Health

Whether you’re picking out fish down at your local fish store, or just keeping an eye on the health of your pets at home, knowing what to look out for is really important. Healthy chili rasboras are:

Active
Colorful
Able to swim right side up, without floating or sinking

Unhealthy chili rasboras can show the following warning signs:

Rapid breathing
Floating, sinking, or swimming upside down
Flashing and rubbing their sides on the substrate
White spots on the body
Bulging eyes
White stringy feces
Bloating

Common Health Issues And Treatment

Aquarium fish can get sick for a number of reasons. The most common causes are infections from fungi, bacteria, viruses, and parasites. They can also suffer from physical injuries of course.

Infections can come in with new fish or plants, so it’s important to quarantine before adding them to your tank. Fish that are comfortable in their environment have a much smaller chance of getting sick than fish that are under stress, so always look for the root cause when any fish gets ill.

Here are some possible health issues (and their treatment) that your chili rasboras could develop:

Ich. Treat with medication or salt
Columnaris- Treat with antibiotics, medication, or salt
Fin rot. Treat with antibiotics or salt
Pop-eye- Treat with Epsom salts

Whenever you are unsure, check my post about fish diseases and consult a veterinarian for more advice. A best practice is to quarantine your fish prior to putting them into a display tank. It’s more common with saltwater tanks, but it is also done in freshwater tanks, especially planted aquariums.

Where To Buy

Chili rasboras are popular fish that are available from many local pet and fish stores. There are a few very similar-looking species in the hobby though, so make sure you’re getting genuine chili/mosquito rasboras.

If you can’t find any chili rasboras locally, or just prefer the convenience of online shopping, these fish are available from a number of trusted online retailers.

FAQs

How many should be kept together?

The chili rasbora is a social schooling fish that should always be kept in groups. A minimum number of 6 or so is recommended, but 20 or more would be much better.

Are they hardy?

The chili rasbora is adaptable to a wide range of water parameters but they do require excellent water quality. They are very small fish, so it is best to acclimate them slowly when introducing them to your tank.

How big do they get?

The chili rasbora is a truly tiny species. They reach a maximum size of about 0.8 inches, but they is as small as 0.25 inches when you buy them!

What fish can live with them?

The chili rasbora can live with other freshwater fish in a community tank. Compatible tank mates include peaceful fish like otocinclus catfish, pygmy corydoras, and other fish that stay small. Avoid larger fish that could eat your chili rasboras or outcompete them for food.

Can they live alone?

Chili rasboras should never be kept alone because they are naturally social schooling fish. It is best to keep them in a nice big school, the bigger the better!

Do they need plants?

Chili rasboras don’t necessarily need plants to survive but they will be much happier in a heavily planted tank because this is similar to their natural habitat.

Is the Chili Rasbora Right for You?

Before you add a chili rasbora to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

You have a mature, cycled tank that has been running for at least three months.
You are willing to keep a school of at least 10. Fewer than that and they hide.
You have a planted nano tank with moderate or dim lighting and dark substrate.
You are not planning to keep them with anything larger than 2 inches.
You are comfortable feeding micro foods like crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp.
You enjoy slow payoff. The best color takes weeks to develop in the right conditions.
You can commit to stable water parameters. These fish do not tolerate swings.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the chili rasbora is worth serious consideration. If several do not, choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to force it.

Avoid If:

You want a fish visible from across the room – chili rasboras are 0.7 inch (1.8 cm) fish that reward close viewing in nano setups, not large tanks
You keep any fish larger than a small nano tetra – even medium community fish intimidate chili rasboras into permanent hiding
You do not have a mature, heavily planted nano tank – they do not adapt to new or sparsely decorated setups

What It Is Actually Like Keeping Chili Rasboras

You will not see them at first. For the first week they hide in plants and you will wonder if they are still alive. This is normal. Give them time.

The color builds slowly. They do not look like the photos on day one. In mature, tannin-stained water with dim lighting, the red deepens over weeks. In clean, bright water, they stay pale.

They school tighter when they feel safe. A stressed group scatters. A confident group moves together in a way that makes the entire tank look alive. That only happens in the right conditions.

Feeding is a challenge. They have tiny mouths. Standard flake food is too big. You need crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp. If you are not feeding them properly, they are slowly starving.

How the Chili Rasbora Compares to Similar Species

Chili Rasbora vs Ember Tetra

Want a subtle, refined aquascape fish that rewards patience and perfect conditions? Chili rasbora. Want a visible, forgiving nano fish that shows color from day one without any special setup? Ember tetra. If you are not willing to build the tank around the fish, get the ember tetra. It will look better in a generic setup every single time.

The chili rasbora occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby. The most common question people ask is whether they should choose the chili rasbora or something similar that is more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you are keeping. If your setup matches what the chili rasbora needs, nothing else compares. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Chili rasboras in a bright, bare tank are pale ghosts. In a blackwater nano with leaf litter and dim light, they turn into the most intense red nano fish in the hobby.

Chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae) are one of the smallest tropical fish in the hobby. These stunning little fish are the perfect choice for fishkeepers who want a large number of fish but don’t have much room. Follow the tips in this guide to set up a great tank for your chili rasboras, and keep them happy and healthy.

Do you keep chili rasboras in your fish room? Tell us about your nano setup in the comments below!

This article is part of our Rasbora Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

Angelfish Tank Mates: My 15 Best Picks (And 4 I’d Avoid)

Angelfish tank mates are one of those topics where I see people make the same mistake over and over: forgetting that angels are cichlids. I’ve kept angelfish in community tanks for decades, and the wrong tank mates can bring out real aggression. especially as the fish mature. These 15 picks are the ones I’d actually trust in an angelfish community, with honest notes on what to watch for.

Angelfish are cichlids. and a lot of hobbyists forget that when they’re stocking a community tank. They’re generally peaceful, but they will eat smaller fish as they grow, and a breeding pair can become surprisingly territorial. I’ve seen neon tetras disappear overnight once angelfish in the same tank hit 3 inches. The tank mates that work best are mid-to-large tetras, corydoras, peaceful gouramis, and other similarly-sized community fish. This guide covers 15 species that consistently coexist well with angelfish, and 4 that I’d avoid based on experience.

Choosing Angelfish Tank Mates- What You Need To Know

Putting together a peaceful community aquarium can be a bit of a juggling act. You need to make sure every fish in the tank will be happy and get along. Angelfish make the perfect centerpiece fish for tropical community tanks, and it’s a good idea to start by building the tank around their needs.

In my experience managing aquarium stores, angelfish tank mate questions are among the most common I fielded, and the most common source of preventable losses. What works depends heavily on individual fish temperament, which is why a backup plan matters as much as a stocking list.

All you need to do then is make sure that all the other fish are compatible with your angelfish and the conditions it prefers. Before we move on to some great angelfish tank mates, let’s take a few minutes to get to know the star of the show!

Temperament

Angelfish are very peaceful as far as cichlids go. If you have a breeding pair, expect them to become a little more aggressive, however, especially with their own species. Angelfish will also defend their nest site against any intruders after breeding.

Size

Angelfish grow pretty large, so there isn’t a whole lot of common aquarium fish that can eat your angels. A standard angelfish can reach 6 inches in length and 8 inches from top to bottom, and altum angels grow even bigger!

Despite their size, angelfish have pretty small mouths compared with other cichlids. They are generally safe around smaller fish, but they will eat any fish small enough to swallow whole. Fish fry and very small nano species should not be kept with angelfish.

Competition

Angelfish are not the fastest-moving fish, but they can be pretty competitive around mealtimes. Avoid keeping fish that are too slow to get their fair share of the food. It is best to watch your fish closely to make sure no one is getting out-competed.

Feeding different areas of the tank simultaneously and using a combination of floating and sinking foods can be very helpful to spread out the competition.

Parameters & Aquarium Setup

Before you can choose suitable tank mates, it’s important to understand the needs of your angelfish. Angelfish are tropical freshwater fish that prefer water temperatures between 78 and 84°F. This is on the warmer side so it’s important that their tank mates are comfortable in the same temperatures.

Angelfish require good water quality, with zero ammonia or nitrite in the water. They prefer water with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, between 6.5 and 7.8. The water flow in the tank should be gentle because angelfish are not very strong swimmers.

The 15 Best

After reading about how to select tank mates for your angelfish, you’re probably very interested to learn about some great options! I’ve put together a list of 15 awesome compatible species to help you choose. Check out our video below from our YouTube channel. More detail is provided in the blog post below.

Even though each species on the list will make a great addition to your angelfish tank, make sure you pay attention to the following important information:

Scientific Name
Adult Size
Water Temperature
Minimum tank size
Care Level
Diet
Origin
Swimming Level

Now let’s get started!

Expert Take

I’ve kept and sold angelfish for over 25 years, and the stocking mistakes I see people make with them are remarkably consistent. Angelfish are the most misunderstood ‘beginner cichlid’ in the hobby. People add them to a community tank thinking they’re peaceful, then discover they’re ambush predators that will eat anything under 2 inches and will harass most fish once they’ve claimed territory. The key is size and speed, your tank mates need to be big enough to ignore and fast enough to escape. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Corydoras Catfish	1-4 inches	15 gallons for most species	9/10	High
Ram Cichlids	1.5 inches	15 gallons	7/10	High
Molly Fish	3-5 inches	30 gallons	7/10	High
Kribensis	3-4 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Rosy Tetras	1.5 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Zebra Danios	1.5-2 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Cardinal Tetra	0.75-1.25 inches	15 gallons	7/10	High
Bristle Nose Plecos	4-5 inches	15 gallons	9/10	High
Otocinclus Catfish	2 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Praecox Rainbow Fish	2-3 inches	15 gallons	7/10	High
Harlequin Rasbora	1.25-1.75 inches	15 gallons	9/10	High
Cherry Barbs	1.5-2 inches	15 gallons	9/10	High
Rummy Nose Tetras	2 inches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Nerite Snails	1-1.5 inches	5 gallons	9/10	High
Black Skirt Tetra	2-2.4 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High

1. Corydoras Catfish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
Adult Size: 1-4 inches
Water Temperature: 72-82°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons for most species
Origin: South America
Swimming Level: Mostly bottom dwellers

Corydoras catfish, or cory cats as they are affectionately known, are awesome little bottom dwellers for tropical fish tanks. There are many different species to choose from in the aquarium hobby.

Corydoras catfish are social fish so make sure you pick up a group of at least 5 of the same species. They are incredibly peaceful little fish that will not bother your angelfish. The fact that they stay on the bottom means they will add another layer of interest and activity to your aquarium.

2. Ram Cichlids

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Water Temperature: 80-86°F
Care Level: Moderate
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: Venezuela, Brazil & Colombia
Swimming Level: Bottom

Ram cichlids are an amazing dwarf cichlid with great colors. Unlike other South American cichlid species, these fish are peaceful and stay very small. Rams come in some amazing color varieties like electric blue and golden.

Ram cichlids are shy little fish that need pristine water quality. This means they aren’t a great choice for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will find these stunning fish make an awesome tank mate for their angelfish!

3. Molly Fish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops & Poecilia latipinna
Adult Size: 3-5 inches
Water Temperature: 68-82°F
Care Level: Moderate
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
Origin: South, Central, & North America
Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Molly fish can make great tank mates for your angelfish. These hardy fish are livebearers that will breed readily in your aquarium. The fry usually get snapped up pretty quickly in community tanks but ask for females only if you would prefer them to not breed.

There are many great types of molly fish in the hobby, including sail fins and balloon varieties. Mollies prefer higher pH than most other tropical fish species, so they should only be kept in tanks with a pH over 7.5.

4. Kribensis

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
Adult Size: 3-4 inches
Water Temperature: 75-81°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Origin: Nigeria, Cameroon
Swimming Level: Bottom

The kribensis is a stunning cichlid from over the ocean in West Africa. These small fish are happy in the same water parameters as angelfish, making them an ideal tank mate.

Kribensis are dwarf cichlids that spend most of their time at the tank bottom. These fish have a peaceful nature but can be aggressive towards other members of their own species, so it is best to keep them in a pair.

5. Rosy Tetras

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon rosaceus
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Water Temperature: 75-82°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Carnivore
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Origin: Brazil, Suriname & Guyana
Swimming Level: Mid-water

Rosy tetras are a little-known but awesome tropical aquarium fish. They are very small fish but they are safe to keep with larger angelfish because of their shape. It is best to keep 6 or more of these peaceful schooling fish in a community aquarium so that they can be more confident and behave naturally.

Hard Rule: Never add small tetras (neons, cardinals, embers) to a tank with adult angelfish. An adult angel can and will eat them whole. The rule applies even if you raised the angel with them as a juvenile.

6. Zebra Danios

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
Water Temperature: 70-78°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Carnivore
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Origin: India
Swimming Level: Midwater

Zebra danios are another species that make great tank mates for freshwater angelfish. They will add more activity and excitement to your angelfish tank without bothering their tank mates.

They are hardy fish that get their common name from their black and white striped bodies. Zebra danio fish are lively little creatures that are very peaceful and easy to care for.

7. Cardinal Tetra

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
Adult Size: 0.75-1.25 inches
Water Temperature: 73-84°F
Care Level: Moderate
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
Swimming Level: Midwater

The cardinal tetra is one of the most colorful tropical aquarium fish in the hobby. Apart from their colors, the great thing about these tetra fish is how peaceful they are! A school of 6 or more would make ideal tank mates for your freshwater angelfish.

8. Bristle Nose Plecos

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
Adult Size: 4-5 inches
Water Temperature: 70-79 °F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Herbivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: South America
Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

Bristlenose plecos are really strange-looking bottom feeders that make one of the best angelfish tank mates. These bottom-dwelling fish hail from the Amazon river basin but have found a second home in aquariums all over the world.

Bristlenose plecos are very peaceful with other fish, but they should be the only member of their species unless you have a very large tank. There is also a Albino variety available.

9. Otocinclus Catfish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
Adult Size: 2 inches
Water Temperature: 74-79°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Algae
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Origin: South America
Swimming Level: All levels

Otocinclus catfish are amazing algae eaters that will help to keep your glass, hardscape, and plants clean. These hardworking tank cleaners look great too, and they can be very interesting to watch as they zoom around the tank looking for new feeding spots.

Otos need a good supply of algae to stay healthy, so make sure you wait until your tank is mature before introducing them.

10. Praecox Rainbow Fish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
Water Temperature: 73-82°F
Care Level: Moderate
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: New Guinea
Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Rainbowfish are another great schooling fish that can really help to liven up your aquarium. The praecox rainbowfish is just one of many rainbowfish that make great angelfish tank mates.

Rainbowfish need great water quality but are otherwise easy to care for. They should be kept in groups of 6 or more to bring out the best of their colors and behaviors.

11. Harlequin Rasbora

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
Adult Size: 1.25-1.75 inches
Water Temperature: 70-82°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Carnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: Southeast Asia
Swimming Level: Midwater

These popular freshwater fish are recognizable by their bright orange color and the black triangular marking on their sides. They are very attractive fish that look amazing as they school together in the water column. Harlequin rasboras are very peaceful fish that add will vibrant color and activity to your angelfish community aquarium.

12. Cherry Barbs

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
Water Temperature: 68-80°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Origin: Sri Lanka
Swimming Level: Midwater

Not all barb species make good tank mates for angelfish, but the peaceful cherry barb makes an excellent choice! These popular shoaling fish have a peaceful nature, making them a great community fish. Cherry barbs are a social species, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6.

13. Rummy Nose Tetras

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
Adult Size: 2 inches
Water Temperature: 76-80°F
Care Level: Moderate
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Origin: Amazon river basin, Brazil & Venezuela
Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Rummy nose tetras are schooling fish that make great tank mates for angelfish. They are active community fish that should be kept in groups of ten or more to see them at their best. The rummy nose tetra needs excellent water quality to really thrive so good filtration and regular maintenance are very important.

14. Nerite Snails

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

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Scientific Name: Neritina spp. Vittina spp. Clithon spp.
Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
Water Temperature: 72-82°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Algae
Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
Origin: Africa & Asia
Swimming Level: Bottom

If you’re looking for some excellent tank cleaners for your angelfish community setup, nerite snails could be a perfect choice. These harmless aquarium snails have beautiful shells and do an amazing job of eating pesky algae in the tank. One of the best things about these snails is that they can’t breed in freshwater, so you never have to worry about them becoming a pest!

15. Black Skirt Tetra

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Adult Size: 2-2.4 inches
Water Temperature: 68-78°F
Care Level: Easy
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Origin: Argentina, Bolivia, & Brazil
Swimming Level: Midwater

The black skirt tetra is another peaceful species of schooling fish that works great with freshwater angelfish. These fish are also known as the black widow tetra but don’t worry, there’s nothing dangerous about them.

Black skirt tetras are active swimmers that should be kept in groups of 6 or more. They aren’t the most colorful tetras, but this can help draw attention to your centerpiece fish, the angels.

Bonus Tank Mates For Angelfish

The 15 peaceful fish in this list make awesome tank mates for freshwater angelfish, but there are many other options to choose from. Here are a few more popular species to consider:

4 Fish To Avoid

Now that you know 15 great tank mates for angelfish, let’s take a look at some common species that you should avoid:

1. Goldfish

The obvious problem with goldfish is that they are coldwater fish that prefer water that is 72°F or cooler. This is too cold for your angelfish, so the two species are not compatible. For the same reason, other coldwater fish like white cloud mountain minnows and dojo loaches do not make good angelfish tank mates.

2. Betta Fish

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Bettas are slow-moving fish with long flowing fins. Keeping them with angelfish is risky because they can be easy targets for aggressive individuals. Some fish keepers might have had success, but I would not recommend trying this combo.

3. Semi-aggressive Barbs

Some aggressive species of barbs are notorious fin nippers and will not make good tankmates for angelfish. Tiger barbs, including green tiger barbs and Glofish barbs, should not be added to your angelfish community.

Other potential fin-nipping species like zebra loaches and head and tail light tetras should also be avoided.

4. Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp

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Angelfish will not think twice about snacking on freshwater shrimp. Some shrimp might survive in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding space, but you’ll probably see their population decreasing pretty steadily!

Angelfish Community Aquarium Setup

Setting up an awesome angelfish community tank could be as simple as introducing other fish to your existing aquarium. If you don’t already have an angelfish community tank, here’s what you need to know:

Introducing Aquarium Companions

It’s really important to have a backup plan in case your angelfish don’t get along with their new tank mates. At the end of the day, each fish has its own personality, and what works for a hundred other fish keepers might not work in your tank. I’ve seen this firsthand, pairs of angelfish that were model community fish in one display tank and absolute tyrants in another. The fish doesn’t change; the tank dynamics do.

I recommend setting up a small, inexpensive aquarium separate from your angelfish community tank. This tank only needs to be a few gallons, with a small filter and a heater. If war breaks out after you introduce tank mates, they can always be moved into this tank temporarily until you return them to the store or make another plan.

A tank like this has other great benefits too. New fish can be quarantined in this tank before going in with your angelfish to prevent spreading any diseases to your other fish. It will really come in handy down the line if any of your fish get sick and need a hospital tank.

If you have some issues with angelfish aggression, check out this video below by Hardyaquariums. His 5 tips are summarized below:

Balance the number of males and females
Buy dither fish for your angelfish to chase around (like Danios)
Get a bigger aquarium that is tall
Make hiding spaces for your angelfish for them to claim territory
Feed your angelfish well – Well fed fish will not fight as much

Aquarium Size

Angelfish can be kept in tanks as small as 29 gallons. Some fish keepers even go as low as 20 gallons, but I would recommend going larger if you can. 55 gallons or larger will allow you the room to create a thriving and busy angelfish community with loads of amazing tropical tank mates.

One important thing to remember when picking out a tank is the angelfish body shape. These fish have really deep bodies that are taller than they are long. Tall tanks are therefore a better choice than long ones.

Heating

Angelfish prefer warm water between 78 and 84°F. You’re going to need an aquarium heater to maintain this temperature in your tank. Make sure the heater you buy is rated for the size of your aquarium.

I recommend using a thermometer if your heater does not have a display, this makes monitoring the water temperature in your tank much easier. Heater control is even better if it’s within your budget.

Filtration

Maintaining a healthy and beautiful angelfish community aquarium is almost impossible without good-quality filtration. There are so many different types of aquarium filters on the market, however, so which type should you choose?

Aquarium filters come in different sizes, but the amount of water the manufacturers claim they can filter is just a guideline really. I recommend opting for a slightly larger filter if it doesn’t take up too much room. Canister filters are ideal for this purpose because they can be kept out of sight in the cabinet under your tank.

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Hang on back and internal filters work great too, just make sure the filter isn’t producing too much current. Remember, angelfish aren’t very strong swimmers! A filter with an adjustable output is very useful for dialing in the perfect flow.

Aquarium Maintenance

Aquarium maintenance is very important for maintaining happy and healthy fish in your angelfish community tank. Here’s what you need to do:

Use a test kit regularly to monitor your water parameters. Your nitrate levels should not go over about 30 parts per million, and ammonia and nitrite should always read zero.
Remove any physical waste and uneaten fish food from the bottom of your tank with a gravel vacuum.
Perform a partial water change 2-4 times per month to keep your nitrate levels safe.
Follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter model, and rinse out the media when necessary.

Feeding

Angelfish are not that picky about their diet. These fish can be fed a staple diet of dried food like pellets (like Fluval Bug Bites) and freeze dried foods. Supplement this diet with frozen or live foods like brine shrimp and blanched veggies like zucchini for a complete and balanced diet.

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Not all of the tank mates in this list will thrive on this diet so it’s important to cater to each species in the tank. Bottom dwellers like cory catfish, for example, should be given sinking pellets or tablets. Algae eaters like otocinclus catfish will need a steady diet of algae, but you can suppliment this algae wafers.

Avoid overfeeding your fish because uneaten food can spoil and cause dangerous ammonia spikes. Feeding your fish small amounts of food more than once a day is a good way to avoid this. Another good tip is to provide only enough food for the fish to finish in a minute or two.

Live Plants

Angelfish thrive in a heavily planted tank. Fortunately, so do all the other fish species on this list! Many fishkeepers think you need very deep pockets and a degree in botany to grow live aquarium plants, but it’s actually really easy to get started.

If you’ve never grown live plants before here are a few things to know:

Plants need light to grow. Different species need different amounts of light, but there are many aquarium plants you can grow under regular aquarium lighting.
Plants need nutrients. Different types of plants get their nutrients in different ways. Some types of plants can be grown without soil or substrate and get their nutrients from liquid fertilizers. Other types of plants need nutrients at their roots.
Plants need carbon dioxide. All plants need CO2 to grow, but some species need more than others. If you want to get serious about growing plants, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 injection system. If you’re just starting out, choose low light, low CO2 plants.

You’ll find loads of great articles on caring for different plants on this website, go ahead and check them out. Growing live plants is fun, and your angels and their tank mates will thank you for it!

Substrate & Decorations

The substrate is the sand or gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. There are so many different types available that it can be hard to pick one! The color is up to you, but most aquarium fish seem to prefer darker colors.

Sand or gravel can work great, just make sure they are aquarium safe and that you wash them out thoroughly before setting up the tank. There are some great aquarium soils available for planted tanks. Avoid these unless you plan on growing a lot of plants.

Decorations can turn an average-looking fish tank into an amazing one. As with the substrate, you can use your creativity and decide whether to go for a natural look or create a unique scene. Again, its really important that anything you put into the tank is clean and aquarium-safe. Natural decor like driftwood or aquarium rocks are great if you want to try build to an aquascape style

Where To Buy

Most of the angelfish tank mates in this list are common species that are easy to find in most aquarium stores and pet shops. If you don’t have a decent local fish store where you live, you can always go ahead and order your fish online. Buying online will also give you access to rarer breeds.

Mark’s Pick: Bolivian rams or German blue rams. Similar water requirements, mid-level fish, and they coexist well because angels and rams don’t compete for the same space or food zone.

FAQS

What Fish Can Be Kept With This Type of Fish?

Popular aquarium fish like cory catfish, otos, rainbow fish, and many types of tetras can be kept with angelfish. There are plenty of other fish species that make great angelfish tankmates too. The ideal tank mates are peaceful fish that enjoy the same water parameters.

What Fish Do They Not Get Along With?

Angelfish should not be kept with aggressive fish or fin nippers. Avoid larger cichlids like oscars and small aggressive fish like tiger barbs.

Are They Good Community Fish?

Angelfish make great peaceful community fish if they are kept with the right tank mates. They can be a little aggressive when breeding but are generally safe to keep with other peaceful fish that enjoy the same conditions.

How Many Can Be Kept Together?

Angelfish can be kept in pairs or small groups of 4-6 individuals. The number of angelfish you can keep together will also depend on the size of your tank. These fish can get territorial when breeding, so it’s important that the non-breeding angelfish have enough space to avoid conflict.

Who Is This Setup Right For?

Good Fit If:

You have a tall 55+ gallon tank with plenty of vertical swimming space
You want larger, peaceful mid-water companions that won’t compete with angels
You’re keeping South American biotope fish that share the same water parameters (pH 6.5–7.0)
You want an active centerpiece fish with companion species rather than a species-only tank

Avoid If:

You have small tetras under 2 inches, adult angels will eat them
Your tank is under 40 gallons, territorial disputes become unavoidable
You want fin-nippy species like barbs, they’ll shred the angel’s long fins
You plan to keep multiple male angels, they pair and become extremely territorial when breeding

Final Thoughts

Angelfish are easily one of the most beautiful species for freshwater aquariums and they make great community fish too. With the right tank mates and knowledge, any fishkeeper can create a thriving tropical community in their own home.

So what are you waiting for? Go ahead and start planning your own angelfish community today!

Do you have an angelfish community tank? Tell us about your favorite angelfish tank mates in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

May 6, 2022

Can You Use Distilled Water in a Fish Tank? (The Real Answer)
Distilled water in aquariums is something I get asked about regularly, especially from hobbyists trying to hit very specific water parameters for soft-water fish or discus. I’ve used it myself as part of RO/DI blends for my reef tank. The short answer is that distilled water alone is actually too pure. it’s stripped of everything, including minerals fish need. Here’s the real explanation and how to use it correctly.

The short answer is: you can use distilled water in a fish tank, but not straight from the jug. Distilled water has had all minerals removed. which sounds clean, but for fish it’s actually dangerous. There’s no buffering capacity, so pH becomes unstable and can crash rapidly. Fish need some dissolved minerals to regulate their bodies. Where distilled water is genuinely useful is in reef keeping, where I use RO/DI water (similar to distilled) to top off evaporation and then add minerals back precisely through two-part dosing. For freshwater, mixing distilled with tap can also help soften water for species like discus or German blue rams that need low hardness. This article explains when and how to use it correctly.

What Is It?

As we know, water has three states; liquids, solid, and gas. The distillation process involves boiling the water to an extend it starts evaporating. The water is then allowed to cool down at low temperature and condensed back into its original liquid form.

This water distillation process eliminates germs, bacteria, other impurities, and minerals from water, leaving behind pure distilled water¹.

It was once a misconception that distilled water heated faster than normal tap water. Therefore, it was dangerous to consume back then. However, this theory was ruled out and it was confirmed that distilled water is like regular tap water. If you want a breakdown on how the distillation process works, check out the video below by Pure Water Distllers.

Today, distilled water is used in numerous applications: batteries, steam irons, cooling systems for vehicles, and sometimes in aquariums.

Is It Safe To Use?

As mentioned above, using distilled water in aquariums is becoming popular day by day because distilled water doesn’t contain chemicals mostly found in tap water such as Chlorine and Chloramine. So, novice aquarists believe distilled water is the safest option for aquariums.

However, it is not recommended to use an exclusive supply of distilled water in your fish tanks. Your aquatic life demands certain minerals for their survival. And there’s no source of those essential minerals in distilled water for your fish.

Distilled water also poses a negative impact on the water pH levels; as minerals in water helps maintain the pH levels in your aquarium, which is essential for the survival of your fish. distilled water lacks minerals like Calcium that won’t help buffer ph and water hardness.

But there are instances where pure distilled water can be used in the tank water.
1. If your aquarium is losing water, pure distilled water can be used to top off.
2. Distilled water can be added to reduce the water hardness of normal tap water.
Whatever the case may be, distilled water has zero essential minerals in it to sustain the aquatic life as minerals are essential for aquatic plants and life and also help buffer ph.

But you can still use distilled water in your fish tanks by mixing it with mineralizing supplements or water that help your fish stay healthy and stabilize water pH levels as well.

Can You Use Distilled Water In A Fish Tank?

Freshwater fish and plants, both require water loaded with natural minerals, which is found in tap water. The tap water in the freshwater fish tanks allows the aquatic plants to photosynthesize. Additionally, many invertebrates including shrimps need these essential minerals to grow and thrive happily in your fish tank.

If you’re planning to use distilled water in a freshwater fish tank, measures should be taken to maintain mineral balance to stabilize ph levels and water hardness accordingly. If there’s no need to use distilled water in freshwater fish tanks, I suggest avoiding using it. That’s because on one end, it gives you more control over nutrient input and output, on the other hand, it gets very costly and can be difficult to manage specially for novice fish keepers.

Contrary to distilled water, I highly recommend using tap water in freshwater fish tanks because it’s already rich in all the beneficial minerals required for a healthy aquarium. Treated tap water with a de-chlorinator like Seachem Prime will be fine for most aquariums.

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If you venture into planted tanks, discus fish, and saltwater tanks, remineralized distilled water can be a consideration.

Should you use Tap Water for Saltwater?

Aquarium experts are usually reluctant to use tap water in saltwater tanks. That’s because the water parameters of saltwater aquarium need to be precise than a freshwater aquarium and many unknown nutrients enter the tank water and cause unnecessary problems.

The water parameters in saltwater: Salinity, pH, Carbonate hardness, Phosphates, Calcium, etc. However, the major problem in saltwater is the levels of these components can fluctuate on and off, creating instability and leading to algae problems in the tank water.

Not only this, but tap water introduces many other impurities that can mess up with your aquarium ecosystem. Therefore, many seasoned aquarists choose other reliables sources of water such as distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or reverse osmosis deionized (RODI) water, other than tap water.

How to Use In Your Tanks?

Suppose you own a freshwater fish tank and you know all the consequences of using distilled water in a freshwater aquarium. But still, you want to use distilled water. Sure, you have your reasons. And yes, you can use distilled water and NOT harm your fish by following these precautionary steps. Following these steps will prevent a fatal effect on your aquarium health.

Re-mineralized

The minerals in tap water create a healthy and stable environment for your fish. Therefore, to make distilled water safe for your fish, you first need to remineralize it.

How to Remineralize for tanks

There are numerous ways you can remineralize distilled water for a fish tank.

Mixing in Epsom Salt, Calcium Chloride, and Baking soda

This is one of the best and most cost-effective ways of remineralizing distilled water.

All the above-mentioned nutrients work in a rhythmic pattern to make your fish tank a living heaven for your fish.
1. Epsom salt helps raise the magnesium level in distilled water
2. Calcium chloride ensures proper osmotic balance in the aquarium water by bringing the crucial minerals
3. Baking soda helps raise the pH levels of distilled water and ensures a stable ph.
Adding water conditioner, Baking soda, and Acid Buffer

Another easy method to remineralize distilled water is taking some water conditioner, containing essential minerals. Add baking soda so the pH levels of distilled water can be raised, and then an acid buffer to bring down the pH levels by 7.

Add Seachem Equilibrium or Shrimp Mineral (Recommended)

For freshwater tanks, adding Seachem Equilibrium in distilled water to remineralize it, does wonders.

For this, I recommend using a commercial remineralize that comes with instructions for proper usage and dosage to avoid inconvenience.

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A great remineralizer for freshwater tanks. Best used with RO, RODI, and distilled water. Completely aquarium safe

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And if you’re looking to remineralize distilled water for a shrimp tank, I strongly recommend using shrimp mineral to add essential minerals to the tank water for your healthy and happy shrimps.

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A gentle reminder:
- Never use only distilled water in your fish tank as this would harm the fish. They possess a selectively permeable membrane which may lead to a trauma (caused by osmosis) when placed in distilled water. A good example of fish that is highly susceptible to such trauma is are Betta fish.
Proper tank and water maintenance

When changing the water in your fish tank, you’ll need to be familiar with some of the tips I provided. This will help preserve the lives of your fish and the tank in which they are kept.

Make sure to clean your tank when the need arises or you might just be harboring a foreign pathogenic species. The good thing about this is that you don’t need to visit an expert in order to get it done. Just ensure that there are no leakages before draining the water in your fish tank so that they don’t flow into a nearby stream when doing this!

FAQS

Is This Type Safe For Fish?

On it’s own, distilled water is not safe for fish. Distilled water lacks trace elements and materials that are essential to the lives of your aquatic inhabitants. You can use a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks or marine salt mix for saltwater tanks to get these missing elements back into your water.

What Water Is Best?

For freshwater tanks, the best for the money is tap water treated with a decholorinator. For planted tanks or sensitive fish like Discus Fish, RO or distilled water that is mineralized work great. For reef tanks, RODI water is the best.

Can I Top Off My Tanks With this type of water?

Yes, you can top off your fish tank with distilled water. Trace elements and minerals remain in your aquarium when water evaporates. You are just replacing the lost water, which makes distilled water okay to use for top off.

Is Spring Water Better For Tanks?

Distilled Water that is remineralized would be a better choice. Spring water’s make up can differ from brand to brand, which can cause shock to your fish. Distilled will be a more consistent source – just remineralize it.

How Do You Remineralize Water?

You can purchase a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks. For saltwater tanks, marine salt mix will remineralize your water.

Final Thoughts

So, when shouldn’t you consider filling your fish tank with distilled water?

Never use distilled water only when you’re changing water in your fish tank!

I hope you got that clearly, right? The reason for this is because of the immediate change in pH that this will cause and the lack of minerals essential to your fish’s health. Avoid a catastrophe by remineralizing your distilled water if you decide to use it. If you have any questions, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Thanks for reading!

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
May 1, 2022
15 Best Brackish Water Fish: The Complete Guide (And Common Mislabeling Explained)
Table of Contents
Brackish water is one of the most underappreciated setups in the hobby, and I’ve always thought it deserves more attention. The species you can keep in brackish. figure-eight puffers, archerfish, mudskippers. you simply can’t replicate in freshwater or saltwater. I’ve kept brackish tanks and the challenge of nailing that salinity range is part of what makes it interesting. This guide covers the 15 species I’d actually recommend for a brackish setup.

Brackish water is one of the most underserved niches in the freshwater hobby. and also one of the most commonly misrepresented at the fish store level. A lot of popular species get sold as “freshwater” when they’re actually brackish: green spotted puffers, archer fish, bumblebee gobies, figure-eight puffers, and more. These fish often survive short-term in freshwater but slowly decline over months without the salt content they need. A true brackish setup uses marine salt at a lower concentration than a reef tank (specific gravity around 1.005 to 1.015) and produces fish with noticeably better health and color. This guide covers 15 species that genuinely thrive in brackish, along with what setting up a proper brackish tank actually involves.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)

The most common mistake I see with 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained)s are adaptable.

What Are They?

Brackish fish are native to environments where fresh and saltwater mix. These environments are common in coastal areas all over the world, particularly where rivers and streams meet the ocean.

This type of habitat is known as an estuary, although brackish coastal lakes also exist. The salinity of brackish water varies with the tides and other factors like river water levels. As a result, these brackish water fish species must either move with the water or be adaptable to these changeable conditions.

Brackish fish are technically known as euryhaline species¹, which means they can adapt to different salinities. They can often live in fully fresh or marine water for certain periods of time, but they are most comfortable in that in-between range for the long term.

Why Keep this type?

There are many reasons to keep a brackish aquarium. The most obvious is probably because there are some truly amazing-looking brackish fish species! In fact, many of the fish sold as freshwater fish are actually brackish. If you want to give these fish the best care, you’re going to need to go brackish.

Apart from the fish themselves, the brackish environment is a fascinating underwater world. A Brackish water environment is an exciting new challenge for anyone who has started out with a tropical freshwater tank.

15 Best Brackish Water Fish

Now that you know what a brackish aquarium fish is, it’s time to get to know some of the best types! All of these species are suitable for the home aquarium, but their care and space requirements differ very much. I have a video above from our official YouTube Channel for a visual. Our blog will go in more detail below. That’s why I’ve put together the following list of vital stats for each species:
- Scientific Name
- Difficulty Level
- Temperament
- Adult Size
- Minimum Tank Size
- Diet
- Origin
- Temperature
- Water salinity/specific gravity
- pH
- Difficulty to breed
Let’s get started!

1. Mollies
- Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna, Poecilia sphenops
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 5-7 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
- Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen food, spirulina/vegetable matter
- Origin: USA, Mexico, Northern South America
- Temperature: 72-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.015
- pH: 7-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
Molly fish are highly adaptable fish that can be kept in anything from hard freshwater all the way to full marine conditions. In fact, these inexpensive livebearers thrive in brackish conditions!

There are a few different species and many different breeds available in the fish-keeping hobby. Check out my complete guide for more details on these awesome beginner brackish aquarium fish!

2. Guppy Fish

Guppy Fish

An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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- Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
- Origin: Northern South America & Caribbean Islands
- Temperature: 63-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.010
- pH: 7-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
Guppies are the smaller, more colorful cousins to the molly fish. These popular livebearers are one of the most common species in the aquarium trade. They are available in an amazing variety of shapes and colors, and they’re really easy to breed in the home aquarium.

Guppy fish is usually thought of as freshwater fish species, but they can be kept in brackish water too. In fact, studies have shown that these amazing fish can even tolerate full marine conditions.

3. Endler’s Livebearers

Endler's Livebearers

A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller in size than guppies

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- Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
- Origin: Venezuela, South America
- Temperature: 75-86°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.025
- pH: 7-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
The Endler’s livebearer is another great nano brackish fish. These hardy fish thrive in brackish environments, even though they are usually kept in freshwater.

The males of these tiny fish are much smaller and more colorful than the females, so if you don’t want them to breed, males are the better choice. Endler’s livebearers should not be kept with large fish or aggressive tank mates.

4. Archer
- Scientific Name: Toxotes jaculatrix
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 12 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Diet: Feed dried & live/frozen foods
- Origin: Widespread in Southern Asia and Northern Australia
- Temperature: 77-86°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.010
- pH: 7-8
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Archerfish are brackish fish species with a fascinating hunting technique. In their natural habitat, these intelligent fish spit water at insects on leaves and tree branches above the water. This knocks the prey onto the water surface where the fish can get to it. Pretty neat!

They will also take regular flake food and do great in larger brackish water aquariums. These fish are generally very peaceful with other fish but can be a little nippy with other archerfish unless kept in groups of 4 or more.

5. Scat
- Scientific Name: Scatophagus argus
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 15 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: gallons
- Diet: Dried foods, live/frozen foods, vegetable matter
- Origin: The Middle East to Australia
- Temperature: 68-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.025
- pH: 7.5-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Scats are large and beautiful brackish water aquarium fish. These spotted fish look amazing in schools in large aquariums. These curious fish make wonderful pets and are easy to feed and care for.

The secret is to keep them in groups of at least 4 fish, maintain excellent water quality in a large enough tank, and always make sure their water is in the preferred salinity range.

6. Mono
- Scientific Name: Monodactylus argenteus, M. sebae
- Difficulty Level: Advanced
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 10 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Diet: Dried foods, live/frozen foods, vegetable matter
- Origin: Widespread along African and Asian coasts
- Temperature: 75-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.025
- pH: 7.2-8.4
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
These beautiful silvery fish are very fast and active so they require a large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. They make great tank mates for other brackish fish like scats, although they do equally well in full marine tanks. Mono fish can be skittish and are known to be fin nippers too, so they are best left to expert aquarists.

7. Green Spotted Puffer
- Scientific Name: Tetraodon nigroviridis
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 6 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Diet: Live/ frozen foods, and hard-shelled food sources like snails are essential
- Origin: India to Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 75-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005
- pH: 7.5-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
The green spotted puffer is an amazing brackish water aquarium fish for more experienced fish keepers. These active puffers can be kept with other fish in a community setup, but they should be the only pufferfish in the tank to avoid aggression.

Pufferfish have beak-like teeth that grow continuously. It is very important to feed these fish hard food like snails and shellfish to keep their teeth worn down.

8. Figure 8 puffer
- Scientific Name: Tetraodon biocellatus
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 3 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
- Diet: Live/ frozen foods, hard-shelled food sources like snails are essential
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 72-79°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
The figure 8 puffer fish is an awesome species that can be kept in both fresh and brackish water conditions. They get their name from the interesting markings on their backs. These little fish are generally peaceful but they are known to nip the fins of slow-moving tankmates

9. Bumblebee Goby
- Scientific Name: Brachygobius doriae
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Feed live food
- Origin: Borneo
- Temperature: 72-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.006
- pH: 7-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
These nano fish are best for a small species only tank. They get their name from their bold black and yellow colors. This fish can be a bit of a picky eater and they generally prefer live food.

The bumblebee goby can be a little aggressive with other members of its own species so it is best to keep at least 6 together to prevent anyone from getting singled out. A brackish aquarium with plenty of hiding places is ideal for the bumblebee goby.

10. Dragon goby
- Scientific Name: Gobioides broussonnetii
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 15-25 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Diet: Feed algae wafers, live/frozen foods
- Origin: Widespread along the North, Central & South American coasts
- Temperature: 73-79°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.015
- pH: 7.5-9
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
The dragon goby is a strange, eel-like fish. Dragon gobies are actually a whole lot more peaceful than they look or sound though.

They are not known to bother or eat smaller fish, although they can be semi-aggressive to other members of their own species. The Dragon goby can grow really long, so they should be kept in large tanks for good long-term care.

11. Orange Chromide
- Scientific Name: Etroplus maculatus
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 3 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
- Diet: Feed, dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
- Origin: India & Sri Lanka
- Temperature: 68-82°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.002-1.010
- pH: 7-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Orange chromides (video source) can be kept in both fresh and brackish waters. This beautiful fish requires great quality water so regular aquarium maintenance is very important.

They are peaceful but will eat very small fish if they can catch them. Provide your orange chromides with a varied diet that includes both meaty foods and plant matter.

12. Kribensis
- Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 3-4 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
- Diet: Cichlid pellets, frozen/live foods
- Origin: Cameroon and Nigeria
- Temperature: 75-81°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.000-1.005
- pH: 5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
Kribensis cichlids are usually kept in freshwater tanks but they can survive in slightly brackish water too. These fish have beautiful colors and bold horizontal stripes that can really brighten up your tank.

These beautiful West African cichlids are very peaceful except when breeding. It is best to keep a single pair with other fish in a community tank.

13. Golden Wonder Killifish
- Scientific Name: Aplocheilus lineatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 4 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
- Diet: Feed dried, frozen/live foods
- Origin: India & Sri Lanka
- Temperature: 72-77°F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.000-1.005
- pH: 6-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
The golden wonder killifish (video source), or striped panchax, is another great species that can be kept in either fresh or slightly brackish water. These predatory fish will eat smaller fish, so they should only be kept with similarly sized fish. These hardy and adaptable killifish spend most of their time at the top of the tank.

14. Banded Banjo Catfish
- Scientific Name: Platystacus cotylephorus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 12 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Diet: Sinking dried foods, live/frozen food
- Origin: Widespread in Central & South America
- Temperature: 72-77 °F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.003-1.010
- pH: 6-8.2
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
The banded banjo catfish (video source) is nocturnal fish with a very unusual body shape. These fish aren’t the most active or exciting to watch, but they still make a great oddball specimen for a brackish tank. They make great community fish but should not be kept with very small fish that could be swallowed whole.

15. Colombian shark catfish
- Scientific Name: Ariopsis seemanni
- Difficulty Level: Advanced
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 12-14 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 225 gallons
- Diet: Meaty foods, can be picky eaters
- Origin: Coastal regions of eastern Central and South America
- Temperature: 72-78 °F
- Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.015-1.025
- pH: 6.8-8.5
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
The Colombian shark catfish is not an aggressive fish but it will swallow any smaller fish that it can catch. These are large fish so they should not be purchased unless you have plenty of room.

One important thing to note is that their fins have venomous spines that can cause serious pain and swelling. This means you should be very careful about handling these fish.

Tank Setup

Setting up a great brackish aquarium is not that different from setting up a regular tropical fish tank. Let’s take a look at how to set up a brackish water aquarium.

Substrate & Decorations

You have a few choices when it comes to the substrate for brackish tanks.

Aragonite is an excellent option because it releases calcium carbonate into the water which helps to maintain stable and healthy high pH levels. This substrate looks great and is easy to clean. Aragonite is available in various colors and textures from fine sand to larger particles.

Crushed coral is another great option for a brackish tank but is a little more difficult to maintain because of the larger grain size. You can still get the benefits of this material by putting some into your filter media compartment.

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When it comes to decorations, you can use any aquarium safe ornaments that are suitable for saltwater. Rocks are a great choice but small amounts of driftwood can be used too. Avoid large amounts of driftwood, however, since they can leach tannins and lower the water pH to some degree.

Planted Tanks

It will be surprising for some aquarists to hear that you can in fact grow live plants in a brackish water aquarium. The water’s specific gravity or salinity levels certainly do play a role in what kind of plants can be grown, however.

On the higher salinity end, few common aquarium plants will be able to survive. There are options, however, including the various mangrove species, seagrasses, and algae.

Fortunately, many well-known aquarium plants are adaptable to low salinity levels. The following species can be grown in slightly brackish water:
- Marimo moss balls
- Java fern
- Microsword
Lighting & Filtration

Unless you are growing live plants, bright lighting is not required for a brackish tank. The timing of your lighting is important, however. Maintain a regular day/night schedule for your fish by setting your lighting on a timer. 6 to 8 hours per day is recommended.

You can use a regular hang-on back or internal power filter in your brackish water aquarium, but canister filters are preferred because they hold so much more filtration media.

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How To Take Care

Apart from their specific salinity needs, brackish fish have much the same needs as any other species. Read on to learn more about caring for fish in brackish aquariums.

Aquarium Maintenance

Performing regular aquarium maintenance is just as important for a healthy brackish aquarium as it is for any other type of fish tank.

Weekly or twice monthly partial water changes and gravel vacuuming will help keep nitrate levels within a safe range for your fish.

Salinity Levels

The main difference between a freshwater tank and a brackish fish tank is the salinity level. Pure freshwater is 1.000 while marine water has a salinity of 1.025. Brackish water aquariums are typically maintained between about 1.005 and 1.012. You can measure salinity with a refractometer and adjust it with calibration solution.

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Preparing

Brackish water is prepared by mixing marine salt with fresh water or mixing marine water with fresh water. Not just any salt will do of course! You’ll need to use good quality marine salt for this. Regular aquarium salt does not contain all the mineral elements that occur in natural brackish water.

It is best to use RO water because you will be starting from a ‘level playing field’. If you are using tap water, make sure to mix in a water conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals.

Always mix up the water before adding it to your aquarium. Mix up your water in a separate bucket so you can siphon out the old water into one bucket, and add the new water right after.

Testing

Apart from a regular water test kit that all fishkeepers should have, there’s one extra piece of equipment you will need. Since you will be mixing salt into your water, you’ll need a device to help you measure and monitor the salinity in your tank.

You can opt for an inexpensive hydrometer if you’re happy with ‘ballpark’ readings. This is usually perfectly fine for brackish tanks because the animals tend to be quite adaptable.

For more accurate readings, spend a little more and pick up a decent refractometer. Whichever instrument you choose, make sure to test your salinity (and other parameters) after each water change.

Where To Buy

Brackish water species are not as easily available as freshwater species, but you can still find them at your local fish store from time to time. Common species like sailfin mollies and guppies can be found just about anywhere, but I would recommend trusted online retailers for the more exotic species.

FAQS

Can freshwater fish live in this?

True freshwater fish should not be kept in brackish water. Many freshwater species will survive for varying amounts of time in brackish water, but it will certainly put them under stress and reduce their lifespan.

What fish can live in both salt and freshwater?

There are a few aquarium fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater. These types of fish are called euryhaline species.

Most of these species are at home somewhere in between these two environments, however. Mollies are fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater.

What freshwater fish can survive in this type?

Mollies, guppies, and Endler’s livebearers are all fish that people tend to think of as freshwater species. In fact, all of these species are perfectly at home in brackish water.

Can Guppies live in brackish water?

Guppies are very comfortable in brackish water. In fact, scientific studies have shown that these fish can even live in saltwater.

Do shrimp like this?

Some popular aquarium shrimp species like cherry and Amano shrimps can survive in very low-level brackish water. Ghost shrimp often thrive in brackish aquariums, however.

Expert Take

Brackish is the forgotten middle ground of fishkeeping. Most hobbyists have kept freshwater or saltwater, but very few have built a true brackish system. The challenge is that there is no universal salinity. What works for an archer fish is wrong for a bumblebee goby. Know your target species’ ideal SG before you mix salt. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 3 – Advanced — Brackish tanks require regular salinity monitoring, species-matched SG levels, and careful top-off management. More demanding than standard freshwater.

Hard Rule: Every brackish species has a different ideal salinity range. Do not mix species that require significantly different SG levels in the same tank. Match the water chemistry to the most demanding species you plan to keep.

The Reality of Keeping Brackish Fish

Brackish tanks require a hydrometer or refractometer for regular salinity checks. Evaporation raises salinity quickly. Top-off water must always be fresh, not saltwater. Many brackish keepers discover this the hard way when salinity climbs slowly over weeks until fish show stress. This is the most common maintenance mistake with brackish setups.

Is the 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained) Right for You?

Before you add a 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:
- You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
- You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
- You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
- You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
- You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
- You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
- You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:
- You want a set-it-and-forget-it tank (brackish systems require consistent salinity monitoring)
- You are not prepared to measure and maintain specific gravity regularly
- You want to combine many different freshwater species in the same community tank
- You expect the same minimal water chemistry management as a standard freshwater setup
How the 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained) Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) stacks up against some common alternatives.

The 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Setting up a brackish tank can be a great next step for aquarists looking to expand their collection. The range of different fish that this side of the hobby opens up is really exciting. This is a fascinating side of the hobby that all fish keepers should try out!

Do you keep brackish fish? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!
April 30, 2022

5 Main Types of Livebearers: A Beginner’s Guide to Guppies, Platies, Mollies and More

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot

Livebearers get recommended to beginners constantly, and for good reason. They are forgiving, colorful, and active. But the part people gloss over is the population math. A single pregnant female guppy can deliver up to 100 fry. If you keep males and females together and you are not actively managing the population, you will have a tank problem within a few months. Plan for it from day one. I have seen more beginner tanks crash from livebearer overcrowding than from almost any other cause.

Livebearers breed constantly, eat their young, and will overpopulate any tank without predation or sex separation. The appeal is obvious. The population explosion that follows is the part nobody warns you about.

If you keep males and females together, you are breeding livebearers. There is no opt-out.

That said, guppies, platies, mollies, swordtails, and Endler’s are some of the most rewarding and colorful fish in the freshwater hobby. Here is what you actually need to know to keep them long-term, including the population management piece that most beginner guides skip entirely.

Key Takeaways

Livebearers give birth to live, free-swimming fry rather than scattering eggs; they will breed without any intervention from you
“Beginner-friendly” means forgiving on water parameters, not zero effort; water quality still matters, and overcrowding is the most common way livebearer tanks fail
Mollies benefit from slightly hard, alkaline water and tolerate low-level salinity; they are the most sensitive of the group to consistently poor water quality despite their hardy reputation
Fancy guppy strains have been selectively bred for appearance, which has reduced hardiness compared to wild-type stock; feeder guppies are often hardier than fancy varieties
The solution to population control is simple: all-male tanks, all-female tanks, or a grow-out tank with a plan for rehoming fry

What Are Livebearers?

Livebearers are fish that internally fertilize their eggs and give birth to free-swimming young rather than scattering eggs to be fertilized externally. Over 300 species qualify as livebearers, but in the aquarium hobby the term almost always refers to the Poeciliidae family: guppies, platies, mollies, swordtails, and Endler’s.

The key biological fact is that a female livebearer can store sperm from a single mating and produce multiple batches of fry without any additional male contact. This means a female bought at a fish store can already be pregnant. She will deliver fry whether or not there is a male in your tank.

These fish are found in Central and South America and the Caribbean, typically in warm, slow-moving freshwater habitats. They have been kept in aquariums for over 100 years and have been selectively bred into an enormous range of color forms, fin types, and body shapes. The hobby versions often look nothing like the wild originals.

Livebearer Difficulty Tiers

Easiest (True Beginner)

Endler’s livebearers, platies, wild-type guppies. Hardy, tolerate a wide pH range, eat anything, small footprint. Population management is the only real challenge.

Easy with Caveats

Fancy guppies, mollies, swordtails. Hardier than most fish but with specific needs: fancy guppies are more disease-prone from inbreeding; mollies need harder water and higher pH than most freshwater fish; swordtails need space and may jump.

Not True Livebearers to Worry About for Now

Goodeids, halfbeaks, and other specialty livebearers require specific conditions and are more advanced. Start with the Poeciliidae family.

The Population Problem Nobody Warns You About

This is the section most beginner guides skip. It should not be skipped.

A female guppy can produce 20 to 100 fry every 4 to 6 weeks. Platies deliver 20 to 50 every month or two. Mollies produce 10 to 60 every 30 to 45 days. These numbers compound quickly. A 10-gallon (38 L) tank with two males and four females becomes unmanageable within 3 to 4 months without active intervention.

The practical options are straightforward:

All-male tank: Beautiful display, no fry, zero population growth. Works great for guppies and Endler’s where males are the colorful sex.
All-female tank: Less colorful, but still active. Keep in mind females purchased from most stores are likely already pregnant on arrival.
Mixed tank with a plan: Set up a small separate tank as a grow-out. Move fry there and find them homes through local aquarium clubs, Facebook groups, or local fish stores that accept donations.

Overstocked tanks lead to elevated ammonia and nitrite, which leads to stressed fish, disease, and die-offs. The population control issue is not just an inconvenience. It is the most common way a livebearer tank becomes unhealthy.

Avoid These Livebearer Mistakes

Keeping mixed-sex livebearers in a 10-gallon (38 L) tank without a population plan; it will overcrowd within months
Keeping mollies in very soft, acidic water long-term; they prefer hard, alkaline water around pH 7.5-8.5 and become more disease-prone in soft acidic setups
Buying fancy guppies expecting the same hardiness as the wild-type; selective breeding for appearance has reduced their overall robustness
Not cycling the tank before adding livebearers; “beginner fish” does not mean “add to an uncycled tank”
Keeping swordtails in an uncovered tank; males jump, especially when chasing females

Male vs. Female: How to Tell Them Apart

Knowing the sex of your fish is essential for population management. The good news is that livebearers are relatively easy to sex once you know what to look for.

Guppies: Males are smaller and dramatically more colorful, with flowing fins. Females are larger, drabber, and noticeably rounder when pregnant.
Endler’s: Same pattern as guppies. Males have bold neon coloring; females are silver-tan and plainer.
Platies: Females have a fan-shaped anal fin and a rounder body. Males have a pointed, narrow anal fin (gonopodium).
Mollies: Same as platies. Female has a fan-shaped anal fin; male has a gonopodium. Females are often larger-bodied.
Swordtails: The easiest to sex. Males have the elongated lower tail ray (the sword) and a gonopodium. Females are rounder and lack the sword.

Aim for a ratio of one male to two or three females when keeping mixed-sex groups. A higher male-to-female ratio leads to the females being harassed constantly, which causes chronic stress and shortened lifespans.

5 Main Livebearer Types

Species	Max Size	Min Tank	pH Range	Fry Per Batch	Hardiness
Guppy	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	5.5-8.0	20-100	Very Hardy (wild-type)
Endler’s	1 in (2.5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	5.5-8.0	5-25	Very Hardy
Platy	2 in (5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	7.0-8.2	20-50	Very Hardy
Molly	5 in (13 cm)	30 gal (114 L)	7.0-8.0	10-60	Hardy (needs harder water)
Swordtail	4 in (10 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	7.0-8.3	20-80	Hardy

1. Guppy

Guppy Fish

An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available.

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Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
Temperature: 64-82°F (18-28°C)
pH: 5.5-8.0
Breeding Frequency: Every 4-6 weeks, 20-100 fry per batch

The guppy is the most commonly kept freshwater fish in the world. Males carry an extraordinary range of color and fin variations from generations of selective breeding. They survive beginner mistakes that would kill most fish, and they are still one of the better community fish even for experienced hobbyists who want activity and color in a planted tank.

The caveat is that fancy guppy strains have been heavily inbred for appearance. This has reduced their hardiness compared to wild-type or feeder guppies. If you keep losing fancy guppies and cannot figure out why, this is often the reason. Feeder guppies are typically more robust, less colorful, and considerably less expensive.

2. Endler’s Livebearer

Endler’s Livebearers

A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller than guppies.

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Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
Temperature: 64-82°F (18-28°C)
pH: 5.5-8.0
Breeding Frequency: Every 3-5 weeks, 5-25 fry per batch

Endler’s are closely related to guppies but smaller, more streamlined, and with a slightly different color pattern style. Males are neon and active; females are silver-tan and plain. The smaller batch sizes (5-25 fry versus up to 100 for guppies) make population management somewhat easier in smaller tanks.

One important note: Endler’s and guppies will hybridize freely. If you mix the two species, you will get fertile hybrids that look like a mix of both. Some keepers enjoy this; others who want to preserve pure Endler’s strains should keep them separately. Wild-caught Endler’s are nearly extinct due to habitat destruction, so the aquarium lines are what we have.

3. Platy

Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
Temperature: 64-77°F (18-25°C)
pH: 7.0-8.2
Breeding Frequency: Every 4-6 weeks, 20-50 fry per batch

Platies are arguably the most beginner-compatible livebearer. They tolerate a wide temperature range (down to 64°F/18°C), prefer the slightly alkaline water that most municipal tap water provides naturally, and are peaceful with virtually everything similarly sized. The wagtail, tuxedo, salt-and-pepper, and rainbow color forms give plenty of variety without needing multiple species.

They produce slightly less waste than mollies, making them appropriate for smaller tanks. Still, a 20-gallon (76 L) is the right starting point for a small group with the understanding that it will need to handle population growth.

4. Molly

Scientific Name: Poecilia sp.
Difficulty Level: Easy with caveats
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 5 inches (13 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
Temperature: 68-82°F (20-28°C)
pH: 7.0-8.0
Breeding Frequency: Every 30-45 days, 10-60 fry per batch

Mollies have a reputation for hardiness that is partially undeserved. They are hardy when kept in appropriate water conditions. In soft, acidic water, they are significantly more prone to disease, particularly velvet and bacterial infections. Mollies evolved in hard, alkaline, often slightly brackish coastal waters. The aquarium versions tolerate fresh water fine, but they do best with harder water and a pH above 7.5.

The larger size (up to 5 inches/13 cm for common mollies; sailfin mollies can reach 6 inches/15 cm) means they produce considerably more waste than guppies or Endler’s. A 30-gallon (114 L) is the minimum for a small group, and filtration needs to be sized appropriately. Do not put mollies in a 10-gallon (38 L) and expect success.

The saltwater adaptation is real and interesting. Some hobbyists successfully transfer mollies to saltwater or brackish reef setups where they function as algae control. Acclimate slowly over several weeks, not all at once.

5. Swordtail

Scientific Name: Xiphophorus helleri
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful (males can be territorial toward each other)
Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L) for a small group; 40 gallons (151 L) recommended
Temperature: 64-82°F (18-28°C)
pH: 7.0-8.3
Breeding Frequency: Every 4-6 weeks, 20-80 fry per batch

Swordtails are underused in the hobby. The red swordtail in a planted tank is a genuinely striking fish. Males can be aggressive toward each other (especially in tight quarters), so keep only one male per tank in smaller setups or provide plenty of visual breaks in larger tanks. Swordtails jump. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. The males especially jump when chasing females or competing with other males.

They produce an enormous number of fry. Eighty fry from a single female is not unusual. Plan accordingly. All-male swordtail tanks work well and eliminate the fry problem entirely.

Tank Setup

A cycled, established tank is the starting requirement for all livebearers. “Easy fish” does not mean “add to an uncycled tank.” Ammonia spikes kill livebearers as reliably as any other fish. Run the nitrogen cycle first; add fish after.

Most livebearers prefer the top half of the water column. They are not bottom-dwellers, which means substrate choice matters less for them directly. However, substrate matters for water quality management. Gravel or sand both work fine. Dense planting gives fry hiding spots and makes population management more organic (fry that hide in plants may survive even without a separate grow-out tank).

Filtration should be sized for at least twice the tank volume, and the outlet should not create strong current that small fish like guppies and Endler’s struggle to swim against. A sponge filter works for smaller setups; a hang-on-back or canister with a spray bar works better for larger tanks with mollies and swordtails.

A lid with minimal gaps is important for swordtails specifically and useful for all livebearers. They are not as prone to jumping as some fish, but they do jump.

Feeding

Livebearers are omnivores and will eat essentially anything you offer. A high-quality flake or micro-pellet makes a solid base diet. Supplement with frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia a few times per week to encourage better health and coloration. Mollies especially benefit from some plant matter in their diet; algae wafers or blanched vegetables work well.

For very small fish like Endler’s, break up larger flakes before feeding. Endler’s mouths are tiny and they struggle with standard-sized flakes.

Feed once or twice daily in amounts the fish consume within 2 to 3 minutes. Remove uneaten food to prevent water quality issues.

Tank Mates

Most livebearers are excellent community fish. They pair well with similarly-sized schooling fish like tetras, danios, rasboras, corydoras, and otocinclus. Peaceful gouramis work well with platies, mollies, and swordtails in appropriately sized tanks.

Avoid aggressive cichlids, large predatory fish, and anything that will eat a 2-inch (5 cm) fish whole. Angelfish will eat guppies. Standard cichlids will eat everything. Pufferfish will not leave any livebearer alone. These are not subjective observations; they are reliable outcomes.

Male bettas with livebearers is a judgment call. Female bettas work fine. Male bettas often leave platies and mollies alone but may harass and fin-nip fancy guppies or Endler’s. The long fins on a fancy guppy male look like a betta rival to some individuals. Watch carefully if you attempt this combination.

Breeding

If you keep both sexes, they will breed without any intervention. No special water changes, conditioning food, or breeding tank setup is required. The female carries the developing young internally for 4 to 6 weeks and then delivers live fry.

To maximize fry survival, set up a densely planted tank so fry can hide immediately after birth, or move the visibly pregnant female to a separate small tank before delivery. A gravid spot (dark area near the anal fin) darkens and enlarges as delivery approaches. Remove the female from the fry tank after delivery, as she and other adults will eat the fry.

Feed fry crushed flake food or baby brine shrimp until they are large enough to accept adult food, typically around 3 to 4 weeks of age.

FAQs

Which livebearer is best for a beginner?

Platies are the most forgiving starting point. They tolerate a wide temperature range, prefer the slightly alkaline water most tap water provides naturally, are peaceful with virtually everything, and breed at a manageable rate. Guppies (wild-type or feeder strains) are equally hardy. Start with one sex if you do not want to deal with fry.

Why do my mollies keep dying?

The most common cause is soft, acidic water. Mollies need hard, alkaline water (pH 7.5-8.0) to stay healthy long-term. In soft, acidic water they become susceptible to velvet, bacterial infections, and “molly disease” (a general decline). Check your water hardness and pH. If your tap water is soft and acidic, consider adding crushed coral to the filter or using a buffer to raise pH and hardness.

How do I stop livebearers from breeding?

Keep only males or only females. This is the only reliable method. Keeping a predator in the tank to eat fry works partially but leads to constant stress and is not a sustainable or humane approach.

Can I keep livebearers in a 10-gallon tank?

A 10-gallon (38 L) works for a small group of guppies or Endler’s if you keep one sex only. Mixed-sex livebearers in a 10-gallon will overcrowd within months. Platies, mollies, and swordtails need 20 to 30 gallons (76-114 L) minimum.

Do livebearers eat their fry?

Yes. The female will eat her own fry immediately after delivering them if they are accessible. A densely planted tank gives fry immediate hiding spots that improve survival rates significantly. Moving the female to a separate tank before delivery and returning her after is the most reliable way to save fry.

Closing Thoughts

Livebearers are some of the best fish in the hobby. Hardy, colorful, active, and available in enough varieties to occupy a hobbyist for years. The beginner-friendly reputation is accurate. But “forgiving” is not the same as “maintenance-free.” Water quality still matters. Tank size still matters. And the population math will catch up with you if you do not plan for it from day one.

Go in with a clear plan for fry management and a properly cycled tank, and livebearers will reward you with one of the easiest and most active setups you can run.

Mark’s Pick

For a beginner wanting livebearers without the population headache, I recommend an all-male guppy tank. Pick 6 to 8 males from different color strains, put them in a planted 20-gallon (76 L), and you get all the activity and color with zero fry management. It is genuinely one of the best-looking and lowest-drama setups you can build. Platies are my second recommendation for anyone who wants a mixed community that includes both sexes, as long as they have a plan for the fry.

Where to Buy Livebearers

Livebearers are available at most fish stores, but quality varies considerably by source. Online specialty retailers often have healthier stock with more variety in color forms and strains, and they ship directly from their own holding systems.

Flip Aquatics – Quality livebearers, reliable shipping, good variety across guppies, endlers, and other livebearers
Dan’s Fish – Healthy fish, good selection of freshwater species including livebearers

April 26, 2022

9 Types of Danio Fish: A Guide to the Whole Group (Beyond the Zebra Danio)
Danios are one of those fish groups I’ve always had a soft spot for. they’re fast, hardy, and the group contains a lot more variety than most hobbyists realize. Most people know zebra danios, but there are 9 species worth keeping and each has its own personality and requirements. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are my honest notes on the whole group.

Danios are one of those fish groups that punch above their weight. The common zebra danio is practically bulletproof. it tolerates a wide temperature range, adapts to most water conditions, and its active schooling behavior makes it a useful dither fish for shy or nervous tankmates. But the group goes well beyond zebras: pearl danios, giant danios, leopard danios, and the stunning celestial pearl danio all have their own appeal. After 25 years in the hobby, I still think danios are underrated by intermediate hobbyists who’ve moved past the beginner stage. Here are 9 types worth knowing.

What Are Danio Fish?

Danio fish are some of the most important fish in the aquarium hobby as well as in the scientific world. The most popular species of danio to come across is the common danio (Danio rerio), also known as zebrafish. However, the genus of Danio contains almost 30 different species with 9 of them making their way into the homes of freshwater enthusiasts!

Danio fish are considered to be some of the easiest fish to keep in the home aquarium. Their hardiness and quick reproduction rates have also made them the perfect candidate for use as a model organism for gene sequencing. Specifically, Danio rerio has been used to study drug development, regenerative properties, and other bioengineering practices.

Some of these studies have been taken advantage of by the aquarium industry, creating fluorescent varieties of danio called GloFish. These fish have been genetically prioritized to express neon colors of red, green, yellow, and more. Once these genes are expressed, they will continue to be passed onto later generations of danio, meaning that there is no cruel practice involved. Sadly though, there are many breeders that dye their fish for brighter and more appealing colorations.

Top 9 Types of Danios Best Suited For Aquariums

In the freshwater aquarium hobby, danios are seen as beginner fish. They don’t require a lot of room to thrive and can bring a ton of activity to the top portions of the tank. Though common zebra danios are the most popular fish species available, there are actually 8 other varieties that can bring new life to a tropical setup.

We have a video just for you from our Aquarium Store Depot YouTube Channel. We go into more detail in our blow post below. If you enjoy our content, please subscribe as we post new videos each week! Let’s start with the first on the list!

1. Celestial Pearl Danio

Celestial Pearl Danio

A great-looking danio fish. Males are more colorful than females. A midway dwelling fish

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- Scientific Name: Danio margaritatus
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Fish Size: 1 inch
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Burma
- Temperature: 65-80°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
- Planted tank suitability: Common
Sometimes wrongly referred to as galaxy rasboras, celestial pearl danios belong to the Danio genus along with the other fish species on this list. These fish are a recent addition to the aquarium hobby, almost causing them to become endangered shortly after their discovery in 2006. Their spotted trout-like appearance has made them a favorite, yet expensive, staple to the planted aquarium.

Celestial pearl danios come from very specific ecosystems at high altitudes in Hopong, Burma. They can be found in large groups, which needs to be replicated in the aquarium setting by keeping at least 6 members at all times; ideally, these fish should be kept in large groups starting with 20 individuals.

Celestial pearl danios can be slightly more challenging to keep as they are not very hardy fish and succumb to imperfect or irregular water conditions. They also do better in cooler water temperatures, making them incompatible with other species.

2. Zebra Danios
- Scientific Name: Danio rerio
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Fish Size: 3 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Myanmar
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
Zebra danios are arguably the most popular and available fish on this list. These are incredibly active fish that earn their name from the horizontal black and yellowish-silver stripes that run from their heads to their tails.

In the wild, the Zebra danio fish are found in a wide range of ecosystems from stagnant waters to fast-moving mountain streams. Most of these environments have cooler water temperatures than typical tropical fish, which will need to be replicated in the aquarium.

The zebra danio is a schooling fish and will need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Due to their activity and tendency to stay towards the top of the tank, schools can quickly become overwhelming for other fish as well as for other danios. Because of this, it’s recommended to keep smaller schools with other species that stay toward the bottom of the aquarium.

3. Gold Longfin Danio
- Scientific Name: Danio rerio
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 3 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: India
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
The gold longfin danio (video source) is a more colorful variation of the common Danio rerio. These types of danios naturally occur in the Ganges region in Eastern India, though the aquarium hobby has enhanced their coloration and finnage.

The gold longfin danio is named after its bright yellow body with white stripes. Compared to other species, they also have noticeably longer fins. In terms of care requirements, they have the same needs as regular Danio rerio fish.

4. Gold Ring Burmese Danio

Gold Ring Danio

A golden-colored Danio Fish that only grows to 1.5 inches. A highly adaptable fish

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- Scientific Name: Danio tinwini
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Myanmar
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
Though similar in name to the gold longfin danio, the gold ring Burmese danio (video source) is a species all of its own. Instead, these unique fish are named after the leopard-like black spots that cover their pale yellow body. They are especially identifiable by their opaque white abdomen.

https://youtu.be/gT0X7RLFCpc

Gold ring danios have the same behaviors and care requirements as zebra danios, but are slightly smaller. Though an inch difference might not seem like a lot, these fish are that much more susceptible to bullying and strong water currents. Still, the best tank mates for gold ring danios will be other types of danio and slow-moving fish species.

5. Glowlight Danio

Glowlight Danio Near Gravel” class=”wp-image-557066″/>
- Scientific Name: Celestichthys choprae
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1.5 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Myanmar
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
Not to be confused with GloFish danios, glowlight danios are very unique fish. They’re not even true danios and belong to the Celestichthys genus instead!

These fish are extremely colorful with a yellow-based body with vertical blue stripes and a pink stripe leading to their tail. They are also much smaller than the other types of danios on this list, but one of the more expensive varieties.

Glowlight danios are very tight schoolers and will thrive in large groups. They are more likely to venture to lower portions of the other tank than other species, so it’s important to keep their activity levels in mind when stocking.

6. Pearl Danio
- Scientific Name: Brachydanio albolineatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Myanmar, Sumatra
- Temperature: 73-77°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
The pearl danio, also known as the blue danio or turquoise danio, is a plain iridescent fish. While they may not be the most colorful species on this list, their simplicity catches the eye in a well-planted aquarium.

Pearl danios have the same care requirements and behaviors as other danios and will do best when kept in small groups. It is important to note that pearl danios need a slightly higher water temperatures than other types of danios that can tolerate cold climates.

7. Leopard Danio
- Scientific Name: Danio frankei
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 3 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: India
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
The leopard danio is very close in appearance to the gold ring Burmese danio, though they’re not related. Leopard danios have slightly more streamlined bodies and much smaller bluish-black spots on a light yellow body. Some of these spots transfer onto the fins.

Unlike other danios, the leopard danio fish occurs in slow-moving or stagnant waters. However, they appreciate some water flow in the aquarium setting. Like the others, they appreciate being in small groups in vegetative setups.

8. Giant Danio

Giant Danio Fish in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557080″/>
- Scientific Name: Danio aequipinnatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 4 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: India, Nepal
- Temperature: 72-75°F
- pH: 6.0-7.0
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Common
Though called giants, giant danios are only about an inch bigger than other species of this fish. However, this potential size is enough to make their minimum tank size a little bigger than the others to allow for growing room and space to swim. They also prefer slightly warmer water temperatures and a lower pH.

These aquarium fish are plain in color, but beautiful upon a closer look. They have pale bodies with highlights of light blue. Paired with their activity level, they can create contrast against a planted background in a large group.

9. GloFish Danio
- Scientific Name: Danio rerio
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2.5 inches
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Diet: Omnivorous
- Origin: Captive-bred
- Temperature: 64-75°F
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Not permissible
- Planted tank suitability: Common
GloFish are highly fluorescent types of danio. This trait has been inherited through the generations and patented by the GloFish company, making it illegal to breed them. However, they are widely available in most aquarium stores and can make a fun and unique addition to a blacklight freshwater setup.

It is important to purchase only GloFish (certified danio fish as others could be cruelly dyed with artificial colors. GloFish danio colors include Starfire Red®, Electric Green®, Sunburst Orange®, Cosmic Blue®, and Galactic Purple®.

Danio Tank Setup

The best thing about danios is that they will thrive in most tank setups, anything from a simple 10 gallon tank with colorful decorations to a 100 gallon system with the rarest freshwater plants. As long as water parameters stay stable and in their preferred range, these fish will thrive.

Substrate & Decorations

Danio fish can be kept on gravel or sand. They do not regularly venture towards the bottom of the tank, which nearly eliminates the threat of long fins getting tugged or bodies getting scratched. If you find that your fish is laying towards the bottom of the aquarium, check water parameters immediately as this could be a sign that something is wrong.

Otherwise, danios do not need an elaborate setup. They will do well in a barebones aquarium with simple decorations. If you really want to treat your fish though, provide easy floating plants that they can pick at for food and hide in at the surface of the water.

A fully planted setup will make these simple and peaceful fish shine even more.

Lighting & Filtration

Lighting will largely depend on the types of plants being kept in the aquarium. Danios do not need any specific lighting, though GloFish will glow best under a blacklight; don’t be tricked into buying a special aquarium blacklight as any one will work.

An important thing to remember is that these fish stay towards the top of the aquarium. If using a high-intensity light for red and foreground plants, make sure to provide your fish with some coverage that they can escape to if the light becomes too much.

Though danios aren’t the messiest fish, they can start to create large amounts of waste when kept in big groups. It is always recommended to have a filter that is rated for at least twice the size of the aquarium, with bigger being better. In most cases, you can’t overdo good filtration for danios as they’ll appreciate the extra water flow. A simple power filter should do the trick for a danio tank.

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Heating

Danio fish are considered a coldwater species. They can tolerate significantly colder water temperatures than typical tropical fish. However, most of these fish have been bred in the aquarium industry and have acclimated to average water conditions.

When buying your danio, it is best to ask what temperature they are being kept at and match those parameters.

Do Danios Need A Heater?

Being a coldwater fish, danios do not necessarily need a heater. If ambient room temperature constantly stays in the same range as the preferred one of your danio, then you don’t need a heater.

However, a heater is always recommended for any tank setup. This is because temperatures can easily fluctuate throughout the day enough to cause stress on your fish. For that reason, danios should always have a heater to keep temperatures constant rather than to raise the temperature.

How To Care For Danio Fish

Danio care is simple and straightfoward. Once the tank is cycled and the fish are safely acclimated, there’s little to worry about going wrong. The biggest concern will be keeping these active aquarium fish fed and choosing the right tank mates.

Aquarium Maintenance

Danio aquarium maintenance is no different from any other fish though the frequency will depend on the parameters of your system. This usually means a 20-25% water change every time nitrates creep over 50 ppm. For most hobbyists, this is every week or every other week depending on the bioload and size of the aquarium.

Along with water changes, the substrate should be vaccuumed regularly to keep detritus from building up.

Danio Behavior & Feeding

No matter which species of danio you choose, your danio fish will be the most active in the whole aquarium. These fish love to swim towards the surface of the water, searching for food and following the rest of the school. Most species of danio are very tight schoolers and will form groups that change direction all at once.

If you find that your danios are not schooling, try adding more plants or more danios. It is possible that your fish are trying to hide due to lack of coverage or safety in numbers. To help your fish be more active, make sure to feed regularly. More activity means a higher metabolism that needs to be kept up with.

In the wild, danios are mainly insectovores; this is part of the reason they stay right under the surface of the water to catch any bugs that might land. In the aquarium setting, they have adapted to an omnivorous diet and will accept most frozen, freeze-dried, and live foods. They will especially enjoy bloodworms and mosquito larvae.

The staple of their diet should be a high-quality fish flake food or pellet; flakes will stay on the surface while pellets will sink out of reach of your fish. To meet their vegetation needs, you may provide algae flakes and pellets or offer blanched vegetables from time to time. A good staple food to buy is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano.

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Danio Tank mates

Most danios are plain in color. While they can bring a lot of activity to the tank, they’re not usually the centerpiece of the system. Instead, their simple colors can be used to accent other aquarium fish.

Some of the best danio tank mates will prefer cooler temperatures and stay away from the upper portions of the tank. Some ideal species would be:
- White cloud mountain minnows
- Corydoras
- Tetras
- Gouramis
- Angelfish
Danios can also safely be kept with most invertebrates and can even be paired with dwarf crayfish as they both stay at the extreme ends of the tank.

How Many Danios Should Be Kept Together?

No matter which species of danio you choose, you will need to keep them in a school. Danios are schooling fish and should never be kept by themselves.

Ideally, at least 6 danios should be kept together at all times. From there, tank size will determine the maximum number possible.

Tank Mates To Avoid

There aren’t many tank mates you should avoid in a danio tank. The biggest concern will be having your fish eaten by something that has a bigger mouth.

In general, this includes:
- Cichlids
- Oscars
- Discus
- Aggressive barbs
Danio Breeding

Danios are some of the easiest freshwater fish to breed and are a perfect challenge for beginners. As long as water parameters are stable, diet is high-quality, and a male and female are available, then these fish will spawn in your freshwater aquarium without any additional effort.

Danios are egg scatterers and will not take care of their young. Once the eggs have been fertilized, they are likely to be eaten by other fish. To increase the odds of eggs surviving, remove the eggs or install an eggcrate that blocks the other fish from getting to them.

The eggs will hatch after a day or two and the fry will be free-swimming. At this point, the fry can also be removed for greater chances of success. Feed small foods, like baby brine shrimp, regularly until they’re able to accept a larger variety.

Final Thoughts

Danio fish are shrugged off as an easy beginner fish that doesn’t add much to the aquarium. Most hobbyists forget that there are many different types of danio available that don’t need any extra care! It’s just a matter of picking out which one you like best.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
April 25, 2022
Black Brush Algae (BBA): What Causes It and How to Actually Get Rid of It
Black brush algae. BBA. is the algae I hate dealing with most. Unlike green algae that you can wipe off glass, BBA latches onto plants, hardscape, and equipment and doesn’t let go. In 25 years of keeping tanks, I’ve learned that BBA almost always signals a CO2 or flow problem. Inconsistent CO2 injection is probably the number one cause in planted tanks. when CO2 fluctuates, BBA moves in fast. Low or dead-zone flow is another common culprit. The good news is that once you identify the root cause and address it, BBA growth stops and existing patches can be treated with Excel or a diluted bleach dip. This article walks through exactly how to do that.

What Is It?

Audouinella, also known as the black beard or black brush algae (BBA), are stubborn algae species from the red algae family. An infestation of this common fish tank villain looks just like a black or dark green scruffy beard, so it’s pretty obvious where its common name comes from. BBA is quite similar to Staghorn algae in appearance but grows in a denser, darker tuft.

Black beard algae is a natural component of fresh and saltwater environments, so it is not harmful in itself. It doesn’t look great, however, and it can affect plants by blocking out their access to light.

This form of red algae starts out as tiny dark tufts but grows quickly if it isn’t checked early. It attaches itself to plants, rocks, driftwood, aquarium decorations, and even gravel substrate. In other words, this stuff grows almost anywhere!

What Causes BBA?

Black beard algae are usually introduced to your fish tank from other aquariums. This could be on contaminated plants, or pretty much any object from another tank.

Black beard algae reproduce by spores. The algae spores are tiny, so it is easy to spread them in the water that new fish and livestock are delivered in.

There are certain conditions that allow these algae to get out of control, however. Here’s a quick summary of the most common causes of serious black beard algae growth:
- Fluctuating CO2 levels
- Unhealthy Plants
- Too much light
- Excess fish waste and leftover food
- Elevated nitrate and phosphate levels
- Poor filtration and inadequate water circulation
How To Control Black Algae In Fish Tanks

Now that you know more about what black beard algae is, you’re probably itching to know how to get rid of it. Rest assured, that’s what this article is all about, so let’s take a deep dive into some of the best treatment methods!

Biological Control (The Clean-Up Crew)

This is my favorite method of black beard algae control, even if it isn’t the most effective. Why is it my favorite? Because I love algae eaters!

Unfortunately, most animals do not eat black beard algae as their main food source. That means that biological control can be very helpful in the long run, but probably won’t bring fast results.

BBA isn’t the ideal food source for most common aquarium animals, especially if they have access to better food sources like prepared fish food. There are a few species that do eat this type of algae, however, so let’s meet them now!
- Siamese algae eater – Crossocheilus langei
The Siamese algae eater (video source) is probably the most popular choice of fish for controlling black beard algae. Siamese algae eaters grow to about 6 inches in length, so they are a good choice for freshwater aquariums of at least 30 gallons or larger.
- Panda garra – Garra flavatra
Panda garra fish are a great little species that reach a size of about 3.5 inches. These bottom feeding fish are reported to feed on black algae from time to time. They prefer tanks with good water flow and at least 20 gallons of water volume.
- Florida flagfish – Jordanella floridae
The Florida flag fish is a colorful fish species that looks great in tanks of 15 gallons or more. These omnivorous fish feed on a wide range of food sources, including pesky brush algae!

While they won’t completely get rid of black beard algae from your tank, they can do a great job of stopping this algae’s growth.
- Hillstream loach – Sewellia lineolata
The hillstream loach is another awesome algae eater that might help keep black brush algae growth under control. These fascinating algae-eating fish need well-oxygenated, flowing water in tanks that hold 20 gallons or more.
- Molly fish – Poecilia sphenops/ latipinna
It’s a bit of an open secret, but good old mollies can also be great for controlling black beard algae!

It might not be their first choice, however, so don’t be surprised to see them completely ignore the stuff if you feed them a lot of prepared foods like flakes.

Invertebrates:
- Amano shrimp – Caridina japonica
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Fish like the Siamese algae eater aren’t the only animals that can be useful to get rid of black beard algae growth.

Amano shrimps are great little algae-eating inverts that can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons. Amano shrimp are especially great for planted tanks!
- Ramshorn snails – Planorbarius duryi
Ramshorn snails are probably the ultimate low-maintenance algae eaters. Unfortunately, these notorious invertebrates tend to find their way into aquariums on live plants and breed out of control. That being said, they are great for cleaning up scraps and generally improving the health of your aquarium.

Care

There’s one last thing to mention before we move on to the most effective methods to remove black beard algae.

Different algae eaters have different care needs, so please make sure your freshwater tank and water parameters will create a healthy environment before bringing any of these species home.

Physical Removal

Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the best solutions. Unfortunately, this is easier said than done when trying to get rid of black beard algae!

If the BBA in your tank is growing on a removable hardscape feature like a rock, or ornament like plastic plants or decorations, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush or wire brush can be helpful.

Removing black beard algae is safer outside of the tank so that the fragments do not collect in the aquarium water. For any removal in the tank, it is always best to switch off your filter and powerheads to avoid distributing fragments.

If your BBA is growing on aquatic plants, physical removal will be a little more brutal. This stuff is tough, so a quick wipe-down is not going to be much help. Badly affected leaves will need to be removed. Remember to remove these leaves and plant matter from your aquarium.

Black beard algae reproduce by spores, so you’ll probably never remove them all. Physical removal is a great first step toward eradication, but you’ll probably want to proceed directly towards the next treatment methods to finish the job.

Chemical Treatments

Black beard algae often respond very well to chemical treatments. Of course, safety is very important when using chemicals, especially if you keep live plants and animals in your aquarium. Read on to learn two trusted methods!

How To Get Rid of It With Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen that can be very effective for getting rid of stubborn black beard algae in your aquarium. It is a liquid that is usually available from local drug stores and chemists at a very low cost.

Let’s take a look at some of the ways to use this chemical to treat black beard algae.

Hydrogen peroxide bath

Preparing an H2O2 bath is a great option for plants, ornaments, and hardscape features that you can remove from your tank. You will know you have been successful when the black beard algae begin to turn grey or pinkish.

Dosing hydrogen peroxide

One good method to rid your aquarium of black beard algae is to simply add hydrogen peroxide to the water column. Start by turning off your filter, and your aquarium lighting.

Next, you’ll want to measure out 3 teaspoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide for every ten gallons of water in your aquarium. Add this to the tank and allow it to soak for about an hour before switching the lights and filter back on.

Spot Treatments

You can also apply the hydrogen peroxide directly where you need it using a syringe or a pipette. You can do this under the water, just remember to switch off your filter and lighting.

You can also use this method after draining the tank enough to expose the algae to air, or after removing the affected plant or object from the tank. A small paintbrush can be very useful for applying the hydrogen peroxide, but you can also use a syringe or an eyedropper.

If you are using this method on aquatic plants outside of the water, make sure you rinse the hydrogen peroxide off after 5 minutes at most.

How To Get Rid of It With Liquid Carbon

Liquid carbon is another great chemical treatment for black beard algae. One of the most popular products on the market is Flourish Excel, but there are other products with the same active ingredients too.

Seachem Excel

Liquid carbon can be used with the same techniques as described for hydrogen peroxide. It is not sensitive to light like H2O2, but you’ll still want to turn off your filter.

Many aquarists have had success by going above the recommended dose (overdosing), but this can be very risky for your livestock. If you do choose to go this route, keep a close eye on your pets and be ready to move them or perform a large water change to dilute the concentration.

Spot treatments are generally a safer and more effective method because they allow you to maximize the effect of the liquid carbon where you need it most. If you have a lot of black beard algae in your aquarium, try spot dosing small areas every week, rather than blasting the whole tank at once.

Using Natural Treatments

Another new product to the market is Green Water Labs Algae Control. This product is all natural and safe to use in planted aquariums. It is designed to be used for those using fertilizers and experiencing algae issues such as black beard algae. This formula is also safe to use with snails and shrimp. It has a very straight forward dosing schedule. I would recommend it if you feel uncomfortable going to the CO2 supplement route.

Editor’s Choice

Green Water Labs Algae Control

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Using an all-natural treatment, this product inhibits various forms of algae. Safe to use in planted aquariums

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Safety Tips

After reading about these (relatively) safe chemical methods of remove black beard algae, it’s worth taking note of the following safety information:
- Remember, black beard algae is mostly a cosmetic issue, so don’t go overboard on treatment at first, you can always try again in a few days!
- Liquid carbon products are not designed for use as algaecides. They can be effective, but using them this way is very much at your own risk.
- Some live plants do not respond well to liquid carbon. Anacharis, Vallisneria, and Japanese moss balls are all sensitive plants that can be negatively affected under high concentrations.
- Liquid carbon is harmful to fish and animals in high concentrations.
- Liquid carbon is toxic to humans and pets, so take precautions when using these products.
Heat Treatment for It in Aquariums

Heat treatment can be a very effective method to remove black beard algae. It does not involve any chemicals, and it’s pretty much free, but there is an obvious downside to this technique.

Heat will also kill your live plants and animals, so it is only really an option for hardscapes and decorations that can be removed from your aquarium. Alternatively, you could also move your plants and animals into another tank temporarily during the process.

You do not need to boil the water, although this will be effective on rocks and driftwood. Plastic ornaments and decorations can melt, however, so use caution.

How To Prevent

Prevention is always better than cure, so it’s really important to avoid this problem from the start. If you’ve already dealt with a black beard algae problem, you’ll also want to prevent it from coming back!

Read this section for a more in-depth look at how to avoid introducing black algae, as well as how to prevent it from growing out of control.

Avoid Introduction

Black beard algae are usually introduced to fish tanks from other aquariums and water sources. Aquatic plants are a very common culprit, so always take the time to inspect and treat new plants before introducing them to your tank.

Sometimes this is not enough, so I always suggest growing tissue culture plants that have been grown under sterile lab conditions. Online retailers like Buceplant stock a great range of these aquatic plants!

My Pick

Buce Plant

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Try not to add any of the water your fish were packaged in by taking the time to slowly acclimate them to your tank water. Never dump a bag full of foreign water into your fish tank! You can totally prevent this way of introduction by properly quarantining your fish.

Maintain Good Water Quality

Black beard algae tend to thrive in poor water quality. High nitrate and phosphate levels in particular are thought to contribute to this problem.

Your first line of defense is regular aquarium maintenance. This means partial water changes at least twice a month and sucking up as much waste with your gravel vacuum as possible. Let’s take a closer look at how to maintain your aquarium to prevent black algae growth.

Your source water could also be a problem. The best way to remove that issue is to either purchase an RO/RODI filter or use distilled water. Whichever you chose, you will need to remineralizer the water with aquarium buffer.

Testing

There’s a lot more going on in our aquariums than meets the eye. Water chemistry is a huge part of maintaining a healthy tank, so you must be able to measure and monitor your water parameters.

A liquid test kit that can monitor phosphate and nitrate levels will be very important in your fight against black beard algae. Knowing what your levels are will help you figure out just how much water you need to change out, and how often you need to do it.

Removing water and waste particles

Decaying waste at the bottom of the tank releases nutrients that feed the brush algae in your aquarium.

Use a gravel vacuum to suck up this waste while you siphon old water out of the tank. Trimming your aquarium plants before a water change is great because you’ll be able to suck out any trimmings that are floating around in the tank.

Filter maintenance

Filter maintenance will not be necessary every time you perform aquarium maintenance.

It is best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on maintenance regarding your specific model. If your filter sounds different or is not creating as much flow as it should, you might need to rinse out the filtration media.

Remember, the filtration media of a cycled aquarium is home to a thriving population of tiny beneficial bacteria that break down waste in your tank. These little guys should be treated with the care they deserve!

To avoid killing these bacteria, only rinse out your filter media in water that you have just removed from the tank. Tap water that has not been conditioned should not be used.

Adding new water

It’s usually a good idea to prepare new water before you perform a water change to speed up the process. This involves bringing the tap water up to the same temperature as your tank and treating it with a water conditioner to neutralize harmful chemicals.

As I mentioned before, your source water can become a contributor to black algae. Consider getting your city’s tap water report or purchase a TDS meter to see the condition of your water. If your water is high in phosphates and nitrates, it may make sense to switch to distilled or RO water.

Maintain Healthy Plant Growth

For the most part, brush algae do not grow on strong, healthy aquarium plants. The needs of different plants vary depending on their species, but all live plants need good lighting, access to nutrients, and CO2. Providing these in the right balance is the secret to vigorous plant growth.

Black beard algae can grow in a wide range of light conditions, so dimming the lights isn’t necessarily the best option. Providing the minimum amount of light needed to promote healthy plant growth is a good general rule for keeping algae at bay, however. Making sure your plants have sufficient good quality light is a better bet than trying to prevent brush algae growth with low light.

The estimative index (EI) method has proved to be very effective in minimizing this problem in aquarium plants. This method involves fertilizing plants liberally and then performing a large water change every week to ‘reset’ their levels.

This means live plants are never limited in their access to essential macro and micronutrients, but at the same time, you are taking care to prevent these nutrients from building up to dangerous levels.

Even healthy leaves die back when they reach the end of their lifespan, so stay on top of pruning and trimming your aquarium plants. This will promote healthy new regrowth and prevent plant matter from decaying in your fish tank.

Stable CO2 Levels

While increasing CO2 levels may be one of the best ways to achieve healthy plant growth, it is important to keep the levels consistent. Fluctuating CO2 levels appear to favor the growth and development of black beard algae.

Running a pressurized CO2 injection system with good circulation and a drop checker is the best way to avoid inconsistent levels. Calibrate your system to maintain CO2 levels between 20 and 30 ppm to maintain optimum plant growth and keep pesky brush algae to a minimum.

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Increasing or stabilizing the carbon dioxide levels in your tank probably won’t kill off the existing brush algae, but it will certainly help to prevent it from growing back after successful treatment.

The combination of proper CO2 usage, fertilizers, and lots of plants will lead to lush plant growth that will choke out nuisance algae like BBA.

Avoid Overstocking and Overfeeding

Black beard algae thrive in high-nutrient environments. Apart from decaying plant matter, the major sources of these nutrients are fish waste and uneaten food.

This is a much bigger problem in tanks that have too many fish, and are given too much food. Increasing your filtration capacity and water change schedule can be very helpful, but it is best to keep your bioload down by stocking and feeding your tank conservatively.

Filtration and Circulation

Adequate filtration is really important for maintaining healthy fish tanks in general. They filter out waste particles and provide a cozy home for the beneficial bacteria that maintain the nitrogen cycle.

It is wise to invest in the best quality filtration your budget allows for, and don’t be shy to run more than one filter on your tank either. Adding some phosphate-absorbing media to your filter is a great way to reduce the phosphate levels in your tank.

We know that fluctuating carbon dioxide levels in the water promote black beard algae, so it makes sense to provide enough circulation to spread this gas evenly through the water column. You can run a small powerhead or wavemaker in your tank if your aquarium filtration system does not create enough water flow.

FAQs

How do I get rid of it in my aquarium?

Controlling black beard algae in your aquarium can be tough. Figuring out the cause of the problem, making some changes, and then killing the algae with careful chemical treatments is the best course of action to solve this problem.

Is It Harmful To Fish?

Black beard algae are not harmful to your fish. Some types of fish, like Siamese algae eaters, will even feed on BBA.

Why does my aquarium have it?

If you have black beard algae in your aquarium, it was probably introduced with live plants or animals from another fish tank. If the conditions are right, these algae can grow and multiply quite quickly.

Do snails eat it?

Some types of snails have been reported to feed on black beard algae. Ramshorn snails in particular can be very effective at controlling black algae. The only downside to these snails is that they have a habit of multiplying fast!

What kills it?

Apart from fish species like the Siamese algae eater that feed on black beard algae, the best way to kill it is to dose or spot treat with hydrogen peroxide or liquid carbon dioxide products like Seachem Excel.

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, black beard algae is a tough but manageable problem that most aquarium owners will face at one time or another. Don’t lose heart if you find this fuzzy growth in your tank, however. Simply follow the steps in this article to beat this nuisance algae in your aquarium and prevent it from coming back!

Have you managed to get rid of black algae in your tanks? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!

🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
April 24, 2022
Do Betta Fish Need a Heater? Yes — Here’s Why and What to Get
Yes. bettas absolutely need a heater, and I say this as someone who’s kept bettas for over 25 years. I’ve seen the damage that temperature swings and cold water do to bettas that are kept without one. They’re tropical fish from Southeast Asia, and room temperature in most homes is simply too cold and too inconsistent. This guide explains exactly why and what to get.

Yes. bettas need a heater. This is one of those questions where the answer is clear but gets muddied by the way bettas are marketed and sold. The image of a betta thriving in a small unheated bowl is a pet industry myth that causes real harm. Bettas are tropical fish from Southeast Asia and need water temperature consistently between 76 and 82°F. In most homes, that means a heater is non-negotiable unless you live somewhere that stays warm year-round. The small preset heaters bundled with betta kits are often inadequate. I recommend a properly sized adjustable heater so you can dial in the exact temperature. This guide covers what to look for and how to set it up right.

The most popular, ornamental, tropical fish in the aquarium world is the Betta fish. Originating from Southeast Asia, Betta fish are commonly found in countries of Malaysia, Cambodia, and Thailand.

The Answer

The answer is pretty straightforward. Bettas thrive in a temperature range of no less than 72 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below or above this temperature range can turn your fish too lethargic or sluggish. Therefore, a heating system is imperative to keep your Betta fish happy.

Now that I’ve given you a quick review about whether Betta fish need a heater, let’s just jump to the basics and discuss further. I have a video above from our YouTube Channel that goes over the topic if you want to follow along. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos every week.

What are the requirements for a Betta Tank?

Betta fish are territorial and highly aggressive. They have problematic behaviors where the males can even fight one another to death. Females, however, are less aggressive.

If you’re planning to build a community tank, avoid keeping bright, colorful fish with your Betta as they will most likely be killed. Go for plain, simple fish for your Betta community tank.

Tank Size

If you’re planning to keep one fish per tank, it’s suggested to get a 5-gallon tank. Any type of tank would do as long as it’s 5 gallon. Be it a betta fish bowl, 3 gallon wine glass-shaped aquarium, or other shaped betta tanks. The key is to keep it at least 3 gallons.

However, if you plan to house more than one fish in your tank, you need a larger tank. For example, to house 5 bettas, the tank size would be 25 to 30 gallons.

Placement of the tank

The water temperature matters a lot when it comes to Betta fish, and so does the placement of the tank.

Betta fish belongs to the tropical areas that receive a lot of sunlight. However, they don’t do well in areas where the tank receives direct sunlight throughout the day. That’s because the rays of the Sun increase the water temperature to the point they go into temperature shock and begin to act erratic, which is unhealthy for Betta. The abnormal increase in water temperature makes Bettas disoriented and it starts swimming in absurd patterns or worst of all. stops swimming altogether.

The ideal place for your Betta fish tank would be inside, near a door or outside of direct sunlight.

Tip: Never place your Betta tank on a wall opposite mirrors. The male Bettas would think they have another male in the tank and act territorial and aggressive for no reason.

Tank Toys

Betta fish loves a colorful environment. Thus, it’s shame to keep them in a tank full of water only.

I suggest putting an aquarium background on the back of your aquarium to provide your betta with a bright or dark background. One great toy to use with a Bettas are ping pongs. Check out the video below (video source). They can even be trained to play water basketball!

Also, your betta tank should entertain your fish. For this, you can place a few river rocks on top of each other to provide them with a fun hiding space. Betta plants and colored gravels would also add to the beauty of your fish tank. Indian almond leaves also work great.

Water Conditioner

Would you want your kids to drink tap water? Absolutely not!

Similarly, in most areas, the water from your taps won’t suit your betta to live. Because it has some chemicals like Chlorine, Ammonia, and Nitrates that are harmful to your fish. To cater to this problem, a water neutralizer is essential to make your water safe for the fish.

I suggest filling a container with water and leaving it overnight. Add a high-quality water conditioner like seachem prime to the water and add it to your fish tank.

My Pick

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Seachem prime is a easy to use and affordable choice when it comes to remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water. Highly recommended!

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How To Properly House a Betta Tank?

Bettas are tropical fish that originate from tropical climates of South-East Asia. Despite being hardy and low-maintenance pets, bettas need proper attention and care for a healthy lifestyle.

Water Temperature

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of maintaining water temperature for your bettas.

Bettas need water temperature that ranges between 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below this range will cause your bettas to be lethargic and sluggish. And if the temperature exceeds or lowers too far from the range, you might wake up one day to die, floating betta. Therefore, it’s essential to install a heating system in your fish tank.

Filtration System

Installing a filtration system in your aquarium might not be essential, but a smart choice to keep the tank water clean.

Just make sure to provide a steady water flow in the tank as bettas prefer less water movement in the tank. I suggest going for filters designed for small tanks or adjusting the filters’ settings to restrict the water flow.

The best filters for a betta fish are ones with lower flow. This means sponge filters ideal. However, power filters can work if the flow can be lowered and if the intake can be covered with a sponge.

Canister filters are going to be more ideal in planted tanks. All-in-one tanks are also have adequate filters in their tanks.

Food

Bettas are carnivorous top-feeders that enjoy wholesome food. Due to their carnivorous nature, bettas require a healthy diet, rich in protein. However, like much other fish, they enjoy variety in their food.

You can feed your bettas pellet food and live food, including blood worms or brine shrimp. I suggest handling bloodworms with tweezers to avoid mosquito bites. The reason I suggest variety in betta fish food is constipation. Bettas can get easily constipated if given the same food every day. In such conditions, where constipation and other diseases such as swim bladder disease is involved. If you select high quality foods you can avoid this.

One staple to try is Fluval’s bug bites. It’s made of solider fly and has the roughage needed to keep bladder issues in check. Use multiple foods to balance our your Betta’s diet.

Editor’s Choice

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As mentioned earlier, live food is a good option. However, frozen food is the best choice for your bettas as they are free from parasites and are designed to meet the nutritional requirements of your bettas.

It’s essential to invest in high-quality frozen food to keep your bettas healthy and maintain their vibrancy.

Do Betta Fish Need A Heater

Yes, Betta fish need an aquarium heater to keep the water warm and temperature maintained.

Many novice aquarists believe the apparatus like an aquarium heater has advanced features, and so they are reluctant to invest in heaters. However, that’s not the case. Think of a heater as an oven. Just set the temperature to 76 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit on your heater, submerge it in water, and it into the wall. And you’re all set to go.

Now the question is that bugs betta breeders and keepers big time. If I live in a warm climate, why do I need a heater for the aquarium water?

Of course, you do.

No amount of warm water and climate can guarantee temperature fluctuations without the aid of a heater. Even in warm climates, the water temperature can go down during the night and abnormally increase during the day, causing temperature shock.

To keep your betta healthy, the best thing you can ever do is to minimize the chances of temperature shock by installing heaters to ensure the temperature will stay within the safe range. Therefore, it is imperative to get a tank large enough to accommodate a mini heater suitable for a 2-5 gallon tank.

However, the problem with mini heaters is their inability to take into consideration the actual temperature of the water inside the tank. Due to this, the tank water can get too warm or too cold, adversely affecting the health of your bettas. To administer this problem, small adjustable heaters do a great job of considering the actual water temperature.

To keep your heaters working properly is also advisable to use a thermometer which makes sure the heater is working perfectly. You can get a variety of thin, small, and cheap thermometers to insert on the side of your aquarium to display the tank temperature.

Also, to avoid temperature fluctuations, it is important to make sure the room temperature is not different from the tank temperature. Thus, cover your aquarium with a lid or glass cover to lower the rate of water evaporation and ensure that the air above the tank remains warm and moist.

There are two main reasons to maintain the water temperature for your betta tanks.
1. Betta’s immune system becomes highly compromised as it gets too stressed out due to temperature fluctuations. This opens room for bacterial infections and other diseases to enter the Betta’s body
2. Bettas are accustomed to living in a tank with water temperatures ranging between 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes too low or high, it affects the betta’s immune system and energy levels. Your betta, at its worst, can become unresponsive and lethargic, and eventually might die.
What’s A Good Product?

There is a myriad of brands in the market, selling various types of heaters. And this might confuse the betta owners.

Therefore, I’ll list the three best heaters for betta’s tank.

First of all, remember that the unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is always in watts. So, a great rule of thumb while deciding on a heater is 5 watts per gallon of water. Also, make sure the heater is installed properly to avoid inconvenience.

If, after research, you’re still not sure which one to buy, I suggest visiting the store and asking the manager to help you choose the right one.

Types of Heating Systems

Based on requirements, there are two types of heating systems.
1. Internal heating systems
2. External heating systems
To understand which one works the best for your tank, I recommend asking your local pet store or betta breeders to give you recommendations.

Note: Proper water circulation is necessary to keep the water temperature maintained. Without proper circulation, your tank water will have cold or hot spots, which are harmful to your bettas.

Internal Heating Systems

The most common type of heat source in a betta tank is internal heating systems. These heaters consist of a glass tube, ranging from 4 inches to 12 inches in length. Some practical heaters have a built-in thermostat and some have a thermostat attached outside the tank to control multiple heating systems.

External Heating Systems

External heating systems are commonly available offline and online. There are various models, including the one that fits under the tank and heats the water from below, while others just connect to the filtering systems.

Here are three of my best-recommended heaters for your Betta tanks.

1. Finnext STE

Editor’s Choice

Finnex STE Series

Best Aquarium Heater
Finnex has achieved what we as hobbyist have asked for decades. A reliable heater that won’t fail. Japanese components. Receives our top recommendation.

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A very reliable heater that solves most of your tank problems. This is a fully-submersible heater, allowing you to install it right where you need it.

The corrosion-resistant Titanium body will not rot or corrode even after years of use. it’s cheaper than the BRS Titanium element and reasonable to keep if you plan on keep more expensive betta breeds.

2. Eheim Jager

Best Value

Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

Best Value
Very accurate, durable, and German made. A great value buy for any aquarium

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This German-made, exceptional aquarium heater stands the test of time with its simple and safe temperature recalibration, temperature control accuracy, and precise temperature adjustment for up to 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit.

The only downside to this heater is its big, bulky, old-school lab-grade glass design.

3. Helio

Premium Pick

Helio Heater

The Helio heater by Innovative Marine offers a new heater technology that is safer and more reliable than traditional heating systems

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An amazing heater for your Betta aquarium with cutting-edge PTC technology. However, they come in smaller wattage sizes. Therefore, for a large tank, you need multiple units. It’s also very expensive. It’s best for tanks where your Betta will be in a prized aquascape.

FAQs

Can They Survive With A Warm Tank?

Yes, Betta fish can survive with a heater. It’s a requirement to install a heater in Betta’s tank as they require temperatures ranging from 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.

How Can I Keep Them Warm Without A System?

You can keep your Bettas warm without a heater. However, it’s not advisable as temperature fluctuations can even kill your pet fish.

Still, there are a few ways to keep them warm without installing a heater.

– Use a heating mat
– Cover the tank properly
– Use strong tank lights
– Add insulation layers
– Thermometer to monitor the water temperature of betta’s tank

How Do I Know They Are Cold?

Here are some of the symptoms of cold temperature shock in your bettas.

– Restless, erratic swimming
– Resting at the bottom of the tank
– Lethargic behavior
– Rapid breathing
– Staying at the surface

What Is The Coolest Temperature A They Can Live In?

The ideal temperature range for your betta is 72- 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above or below these ranges is detrimental to your tropical fish. Therefore, I recommend maintaining the temperature below 75 degrees Fahrenheit but it shouldn’t fall below 70 degrees at any cost.

Final Thoughts

Bettas are popular among many aquarists in the aquarium trade. They are hardy, low-maintenance, and easy to keep. However, a few things about Bettas should be taken into consideration, including, the amount of fish you’re going to keep, the size of your rank, tank toys to fend off boredom, and most importantly, keeping the water warm with the help of a heater.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.
April 21, 2022

21 Types of Guppies: A Visual Guide to Fancy Guppy Varieties and Tail Shapes

Fancy guppies from pet stores are genetically fragile. Decades of inbreeding for color have produced fish that die from diseases wild guppies shrug off. The gap between a well-bred guppy and a mass-produced one is the difference between a fish that thrives for years and one that dies in weeks.

Where you buy your guppies matters more than how you keep them.

Guppies get written off as beginner fish, and while that’s fair. They’re genuinely forgiving. The variety within the species is something most hobbyists underestimate. Fancy guppies have been selectively bred for decades into dozens of distinct tail shapes and color patterns: delta tails, veil tails, sword tails, mosaic patterns, cobra patterns, and more. Serious guppy breeders treat this like a competitive show hobby, and the results are impressive. Even if you’re not getting into breeding, knowing the different types helps you pick what you actually want instead of grabbing whatever the store happens to have. Here are 21 guppy varieties worth knowing.

What People Get Wrong About Guppies

Guppies get labeled as beginner fish and then get kept in conditions that no beginner fish should have to tolerate. The assumption that livebearers don’t need water quality is wrong. Ammonia, nitrite, and high nitrates hit guppies hard, especially fancy varieties. A stable, cycled tank with regular water changes is not optional for long-term success with guppies.

The second major mistake is the male-to-female ratio. Most people who buy guppies grab a few of each and mix them together. The result is that males relentlessly pursue females. Females die young from stress and exhaustion. The correct ratio is two to three females per male, minimum. Keep all males if you don’t want the ratio issue (and no breeding).

Third: fin-nipping tank mates destroy fancy guppies fast. Those long, flowing tails are not compatible with tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or any known nipper. The damage is permanent and opens the door to infections.

What Is a Guppy Fish?

Guppies are small fresh and brackish water fish from the Poeciliidae family. There are many popular aquarium fish in this group, including mollies, plays, and swordtails. They are livebearers, which means they do not lay eggs but rather give birth to live free-swimming fry.

Here is a YouTube from my YouTube channel to get you started. I’ll go into more in detail in this post. If you like videos like this, please make sure to like and subscribe!

Read on to learn all about guppies, their care, and the different types that you can keep and breed!

What Makes Them Such Great Pets?

Guppies are probably the best beginners fish in the hobby, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t excellent for experienced fishkeepers too.

Guppies are:

Very affordable
Highly attractive
Easy to care for
Easy to breed
Active and fascinating to watch

Guppies seem to have it all!

In Their Natural Habitat

Guppies are adaptable to a variety of natural habitats in their native distribution. They prefer slow-moving or still waters and are most at home in pools of streams and rivers or ponds and swamps. These fish are mostly found in freshwater although they have been recorded in brackish water too.

Guppy fish have also established populations all over the world after being released into the wild to control mosquito larvae. They also populate local waterways when they are released from fish tanks or escape from ponds. Who knows, there could even be some wild guppies near your home!

The History Of Guppy Keeping

The guppy was first sent to Europe from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. The name of the man responsible for introducing this fish to the hobby was Robert John Lechmere Guppy, and the year was 1866. The fish was officially named Giradinus guppyi¹.

He was not the first European to discover the fish, however, that honor goes to a German man named Julius Gollmer who found these fish in the wild many years before. Guppies have been kept for over 150 years, and they are just as popular as ever!

The International Guppy Associations

Fancy guppies are bred and kept all over the world. International associations have been created to bring hobbyists together and attempt to standardize the hobby. The International Fancy Guppy Association (IGFA) is one of the best examples.

IGFA was founded in 1965 and has developed show standards for the various breeds of fancy guppy. They are also a great resource for keepers who would like to learn more about the fascinating world of guppy breeding.

The IKGH is another very important international association that was formed in 1981. They have been active in the guppy breeding hobby ever since, holding regular shows and competitions all over the world.

3 Types by Species

There are many wild guppy fish species, but the three most commonly kept types are listed below.

1. Micropoecilia picta

Common name: Scarlet livebearer, swamp guppy, painted guppy
Adult size: 1.2 inches
Origin: South America, Caribbean
Temperament: Peaceful
Water type: Fresh/brackish
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

The scarlet livebearer is a brackish water species that is found in the Caribbean and Countries like Brazil and Guyana. They are also known as swamp guppies or painted guppies.

They have red or orange overall color but are also boldly marked with various other colors. Females swamp guppies are larger than males. They are a hard water species and they are at home in slightly brackish water.

2. Poecilia wingei

Common name: Endler’s livebearer, Endler’s guppy
Size: 1-1.8 inches
Origin: Venezuela
Temperament: Peaceful
Water type: Fresh/brackish
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

Endler’s livebearer is an awesome nano guppy species from Venezuela in South America. Endler guppies reach a maximum size of about 1.8 inches. The males are much smaller and more colorful than the females.

3. Poecilia reticulata

Common name: Common guppy, fancy guppy
Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
Origin: South America, Caribbean
Temperament: Peaceful
Water type: Fresh/brackish
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

The common guppy is one of the most popular aquarium fish on the planet. These fish are available in a huge variety of breeds known as fancy guppies.

They are native to the northeastern parts of South America and the Caribbean islands. They grow to about 2.5 inches in length, with females growing larger than males.

21 Types by Variety

Now that you know a little more about guppies and their history, it’s time to learn about some of the amazing fancy guppy varieties out there in the hobby. I’ll provide a brief explanation of the most important features of each type.

Before we get started, here are a few important terms to know:

Dorsal fin: The fin on the back of a fish. The shape and length of this fin are important for identifying many of the fancy guppy breeds.
Pectoral fin: The pectoral fin is located on the side of a fish’s body, just behind its head. There is a pectoral fin on either side of the body.
Caudal fin: Caudal fin is the technical name for a fish’s tailfin. Tail shape and tail patterns vary pretty extensively between the different guppy types.

Now that we’re all up to speed on the fancy fishy words, let’s jump right in and meet some fancy guppies!

1. Fantail

The fantail guppy is a very common breed that is easy to find. The males have large, beautiful caudal fins that are about as long as the fish’s body! The standard for the breed is a long, triangular tail with straight edges.

The dorsal fin is also a distinctive feature of this breed. It should sweep back to about the first third of the tail.

2. Delta Tail

The delta tail guppy (video source) is also known as the triangle tail guppy. They are very similar to the fantail guppies but the outer edge of their tail is slightly convex (rounded outwards). Delta tail guppies come in all sorts of different colors and patterns.

3. Lyretail

Lyretail guppies have very interesting tail shapes. In case you were wondering, a lyre is an ancient U-shaped musical instrument, and that’s where these fish get their name.

This tail shape is similar to the double swordtail, but the extensions curve outwards slightly, instead of being straight and parallel.

4. Roundtail

Round tail guppies (video source) have a circular tail fin with a diameter about half the length of their body. Their dorsal fin is pretty long and has a rounded end. The round tail guppy breed is available in a huge range of different colors and patterns, so there’s a round tail to suit any fishkeeper’s eye!

5. Half-moon Tail

https://youtu.be/Ub1VsZY-0Q0

The half-moon tail guppy (video source) is similar to the round tail but has a larger, fuller caudal fin. The tail is semicircular, starting at 90 degrees (right angles) to the fish’s body.

The tail is not quite as long as the body but is even taller than the fish is long! The dorsal fin on halfmoon tail guppies is also large and overlaps the tail a little.

6. Spear Tail

The spear tail guppy is another interesting fancy guppy breed. These fish have rounded tails that form a point in the middle, just like a spear tip.

The dorsal fin shape of this breed is also a great feature. It starts at nearly 90 degrees to the body and sweeps back to about a third of the length of the tail fin.

7. Pin Tail

The pintail or needle tail guppy (video source) has a small circular tail shape with a sharp point extending from the middle. It is very similar to the spear tail guppy in this respect, but the pointed caudal fin is even more prominent in this breed. The dorsal fin is also quite long and sharply pointed, creating a bold and dramatic-looking fancy guppy.

8. Tuxedo

Tuxedo guppies (video source) are very elegant little fish, just as their name suggests! This popular breed was first developed in Germany.

The tail half of their body is black or another solid color. The tail and dorsal fin will also be a different color to the dark half of the body, but without any spots or patterning.

9. Sword Tail

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A post shared by @goldenstandardguppy

There are a few different varieties of the swordtail fancy guppy breed. The swordtail breed of the fancy guppy should not be confused with the swordtail fish (Xiphophorus hellerii) which grows much larger.

Double swordtail guppies have both the top and bottom of their tail fins elongated to form a sword shape. They can also be found in top or bottom swordtail forms where only one end of the tail is pointed. The middle section of the tail should not be colored, and this really makes the ‘swords’ stand out.

10. Cobra

Cobra Guppies

A colorful guppy fish with green and black coloration on its tail

Click For Best Price

Cobra guppies come in a variety of colors, but it is their markings that set them apart. These amazing fancy guppies have a combination of reticulated markings and often have darker vertical bars too. The markings on their tails are often bolder than those on their bodies.

11. Lace

Lace guppies have incredibly intricate markings on their body and fins. They are similar to cobra guppies but lack the vertical bars on their body. Lace guppies are available in various colors, including red, gold, black, and many others.

12. Mosaic Tail

Mosaic tail guppies have amazing markings on their tails and dorsal fins. The markings are similar to those of the lace guppy, only much bolder. The tail coloration of this breed becomes darker and more intense from the start of the fin to the back.

13. Albino

Albino guppies lack pigment, which makes them pinkish-white overall. This makes for a tropical fish that really stands out in the aquarium.

Their eyes are also a pinkish color, which differentiates them from other white guppies. Albino guppies can have some color though, they often show some red, yellow, or blue markings on their bodies and fins.

14. Japanese Blue

Japanese blue guppies (video source) have a metallic dark blue to sky blue color on the tail half of their bodies. The head is often golden or reddish in this breed. The Japanese blue swordtail guppy is a particularly popular tail shape form of this breed.

15. Green

Green guppies are one of the best color schemes if you ask me. They are relatively rare, but available in many different patterns and tail shape types.

16. Yellow

Yellow (video source) is a very cheerful color, and a bunch of sunshine-colored guppies can make for a great display. Yellow guppies are available in various breeds including yellow tuxedos, and yellow cobra guppies.

17. Half Black Green

The half-black green guppy has a black back half of its body and a green front. There are many different half-black color combinations, but green is one of the rarest forms.

18. Koi

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A post shared by Pecinta Guppy Indonesia (@koi__guppy)

This fancy guppy fish breed is named after another popular fish. Like their larger namesake, koi guppies have a combination of white, red, and black colors.

19. Panda

The panda guppy (video source) is mostly black/blue and white in color. The tail half of the fish be dark while the front half is a silvery color. These fish have dark pectoral fins and dark eyes too.

20. Dragon

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A post shared by Abqary’s Guppy (@abqarysguppy)

Dragon guppies have one of the most dramatic color schemes of all the breeds. These fish are known for their fiery red fins with a half-black guppy body.

21. Dumbo Ear

Dumbo ear guppies (video source) have huge pectoral fins that look almost like the ears of an elephant! Even though their name sounds kind of goofy, these fish take finnage to the extreme and they are incredibly graceful and beautiful to watch.

Other Notable Types

Just in case you’re interested in even more types of guppies, here’s a list of some other popular types that you can look for!

Color types

Half black purple guppy
Half black blue guppy
Half black yellow guppy
Half black pastel guppy
Blue guppy
Red guppy
black guppy
Neon blue guppy
Purple guppy
Bronze guppy
Glass guppies

Tail types

Flag tail guppy
Fire tail guppy
Leopard tail guppy
Grass tail guppy

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

I’ve watched guppies go from the most bulletproof fish in the hobby to some of the most fragile, and the reason is commercial breeding. Mass-produced guppies from big box stores have been through so many generations of inbreeding that their immune systems are compromised. Quality-bred guppies from reputable breeders or specialty suppliers are genuinely different fish. In 25 years of working with these fish and running fish stores, the single biggest factor in guppy success is source quality, not tank conditions.

TIER BREAKDOWN

Beginner-Friendly Varieties: Feeder Guppy, Common Fancy Guppy, Delta Tail, Fan Tail
Intermediate (require more attention to water quality and sourcing): Moscow Blue, Cobra, Snakeskin, Tuxedo
Advanced / Breeder-Level: Show-grade Ribbontail, Halfmoon Guppy, Dumbo Ear (large pectoral fins prone to damage), Endler’s Guppy pure strains (hybridization risk)

Variety	Difficulty	Max Size	Min Tank	Best For
Common Fancy Guppy	Beginner	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	First fish, community tanks
Delta Tail Guppy	Beginner	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Display community tanks
Moscow Blue Guppy	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Dedicated guppy tank
Cobra / Snakeskin Guppy	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Species tanks, breeders
Ribbontail Guppy	Advanced	2 in (5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Show breeders only
Endler’s Livebearer	Beginner	1.4 in (3.5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Nano tanks, planted setups
Tuxedo Guppy	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Dedicated guppy display
Dumbo Ear Guppy	Advanced	2 in (5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Species-only tank

Keeping and Caring

After looking at all the amazing types of guppies in this article, you might have already chosen a favorite and be thinking of adding them to your collection. Read this section to learn the basics of caring for these fantastic fish!

Tank Setup

Guppies is kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons. Such a small tank would only be appropriate for a small group of male fish, however.

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Waterbox 10 Mini

The Waterbox 10 Mini offers a great rimless tank at a great price. Perfect for a mini aquascape!

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The last thing you want is for these fish to start breeding and overpopulating a small tank, so I would suggest going up to a 20-gallon or larger if you plan on keeping a mixed group.

Filtration

Adequate filtration is really important for keeping tropical fish healthy, and guppies are no exception. There are many makes and models available, and any type that is rated for your aquarium size or larger will do.

You don’t need the most expensive filter to maintain healthy guppies, but I would recommend running a slightly oversized model. An even better choice is to run two filters. Not only will this provide you with a safety net should one fail, but it will also allow for the increased bioload once your fish begin breeding. A power filter is the best combo of filtration capacity and budget when it comes to guppies.

Heating

Guppies are hardy fish that are comfortable in temperatures down to the lower 70s (Fahrenheit). Pregnant female guppies have been reported to be more susceptible to ich at lower temperatures, however, so maintaining breeding fish at 78-80°F is advised. Using an aquarium heater will make this much easier!

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Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

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Very accurate, durable, and German made. A great value buy for any aquarium

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Lighting

Guppies do not have any special lighting needs. Standard fluorescent or LED lighting will suit them just fine. You will only need to look into high-quality lighting if you wish to grow a lot of live plants.

Provide your guppies with a regular light period of 6 to 8 hours a day. Using a timer will make keeping regular timing much easier.

Live Plants

Guppies thrive in planted aquariums and the cover that plants create provides a great place for guppy fry to hang out. Plants are also very useful for increasing oxygen levels and taking up nitrates from the water column.

Although guppies will nip at decaying plant material and eat microorganisms from your plants, they do not damage live plants. Guppies prefer hard, alkaline water, so your choice of plants is slightly more limited.

Here are a few easy plants that you can grow in your aquarium:

Water wisteria
Java moss
Java fern
Amazon frogbit

Decor

Guppies are not fussy when it comes to ornaments and decorations. They are confident and active little fish that do not hide out too much. Choose your decorations based on the style or theme of the aquarium you are putting together, and don’t be afraid to use your creativity!

Remember though, only use aquarium-safe decorations and make sure you wash them carefully before adding them to the tank.

How To Care

Guppies are very easy fish to care for, but there are still some important things you should know before bringing them home. Read on for more information.

Tank Maintenance

Perform a partial water change at least every second week in your guppy tank to keep nitrate levels down. If your tank is heavily stocked, or you’re feeding the tank frequently because you have a lot of fry, you might want to increase this to once or even twice a week. Remember to use a water conditioner if you are using tap water in your aquarium.

The only way to know whether you’re doing enough tank maintenance is to measure your water parameters regularly. Pick up a liquid or strip test kit for this purpose.

Be very careful when performing water changes if you have a lot of fry in the aquarium. I suggest carefully inspecting the water you take out of the tank just in case any fry get sucked up!

Apart from regular water changes, all you really need to do is clean your glass with an algae scraper when necessary and follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter.

Important Water Parameters

Water temperature: 72-80°F
pH: 7-8
Hardness: 143. 536 ppm
Nitrate: Less than 20 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Ammonia: 0 ppm

Feeding

Guppies are naturally omnivorous and the modern domestic guppy is not fussy about diet at all. A high-quality flake food is a perfect everyday food source for these fish.

For a more balanced diet, I recommend supplementing their diet with an unprocessed food source like bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. These are available frozen so they are very easy to use. A small amount of these once or twice a week will improve your fish’s health and condition.

Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

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Tankmates

One of the best things about guppies is their peaceful nature. They are confident little fish that are always active and visible in the aquarium. They get along great with many other tropical freshwater fish.

The most important factor to consider when picking guppy tankmates is their water parameter compatibility. Guppies thrive in hard, alkaline water, so their tank mates should be comfortable in the same environment.

Let’s take a look at some good guppy tank mates, and some species to avoid.

Good Tankmates

Mollies
Swordtails
Platys
Dwarf neon rainbowfish
Least killifish
Corydoras catfish

Tankmates to Avoid

Tiger barbs
Serpae tetras
Fish that need soft acidic water
Large cichlids

Health and Disease

Guppies are hardy fish, so they are not especially prone to any problems. As a rule, the best way to prevent health issues is to minimize stress. Let’s take a look at some of the best ways to prevent guppy illness:

Perform regular aquarium maintenance for great water quality
Avoid overfeeding your fish
Avoid overstocking your aquarium
Maintain appropriate water parameters
Avoid aggressive tank mates

Unfortunately, poor health and disease can happen even when you’re doing everything right. Here are some of the most common guppy health issues to look out for:

Ich (white spot disease)
Columnaris (Saddleback/ cotton wool disease)
Hexamita (Hole in the head)
Camallanus worm

Breeding

Breeding guppies is extremely easy, so this is a great species to get started with if you’ve never bred tropical fish before. Guppies are livebearers, which means that female guppies give birth to live baby fry. Each female guppy can give birth every month, which means you’re guppy population can grow very quickly!

Female guppies can breed after just 2- 3 months, although it is better to let them grow a little older before they start breeding. Such a short generation time makes guppies an amazing species for breeding projects.

Sexing

Sexing guppies is very easy because adults are sexually dimorphic. This means there are clear physical differences between the sexes that are easy to spot. Let’s take a closer look at some of these guppy sex differences:

Body size

Overall size is probably the most obvious difference between male and female guppies. Adult females are significantly larger than males.

Body shape

Female guppies have a much more rounded body shape than males, especially when they are pregnant. Males have a very slender build.

Finnage

Male guppies have much larger fins in comparison with their body size. Their fins are much more heavily patterned and colored too.

The anal fin of male guppies is modified into a structure known as the gonopodium. It is narrow and elongated in comparison to the triangular anal fin of the female.

Color

Male guppies are much more boldly marked and colorful than females in general.

Pregnant female guppies do have a unique marking that easily identifies them from males, however. Look out for a dark triangular marking on the belly, just in front of the anal fin. This marking is known as the gravid spot and will confirm that the fish is a pregnant female.

Behavior

Female guppies spend most of their time foraging while males spend a lot of time swimming around the females, trying to get their attention.

Caring for fry

Guppy fry are easy to care for. The fact that they are born live means that you don’t have to worry about egg predation from the other fish in the tank. Unfortunately, adult guppies have no problem eating guppy fry, so it is best to separate them to increase the survival rate of the babies.

Catching all the tiny fry to move them to a separate tank is not going to be easy. Moving a pregnant female over to your fry tank is a much better option! You can go ahead and move the mother fish back into the main tank once she has given birth.

Another great option, which is less stressful on the pregnant female is to add a breeder box to your tank. If you’re not too worried about some of the babies being snacked on, simply growing some floating plants in the tank will provide them with a place to hide out until they are big enough to swim out in the open. I’ve found that water wisteria works great for this, but Java moss will work just as well or even better.

Guppy fry are tiny but hardy little fish. They is fed the same flake food as the adults, but you’re going to want to crush it up for them. You can use a pepper grinder for this or simply crush the flakes in the palm of your hand.

Preventing Breeding

While breeding guppies may be a fun and fascinating hobby, it is important to have a plan for the fry! The only reliable way to prevent guppies from breeding is to keep only male or only female fish.

Mature females are often already pregnant when you bring them home, so males are a safer bet. When buying female guppies for a breeding project, look for females without very swollen bellies and obvious gravid spots.

Where to Buy

Most local pet stores will sell mutt guppies, and sometimes also a selection of different breeds. For specific breeds, you need to order online or contact local clubs and breeders.

MARK’S PICK

Moscow Blue Guppy. The color on a quality male is a deep, metallic blue that covers the entire body, not just the tail. They’re not the easiest guppy to find in great quality, but when you get a well-bred line they’re genuinely impressive fish. I’d source from a specialty breeder rather than a store for this variety specifically.

AVOID IF

You plan to mix fancy male guppies with fin-nipping species like tiger barbs or serpae tetras (the fins will be destroyed within days). You want to keep just males and females together without a plan: guppies breed constantly and females under constant pursuit will die early from stress. You’re expecting cheap store-bought guppies to perform like quality-bred fish (they won’t: source matters enormously). You want to keep show-quality varieties like ribbontails in a community tank (they need a species-only setup to protect those fins). You aren’t prepared to deal with fry: guppies reproduce fast and a 10-gallon can be overrun within months.

FAQS

How many types are there?

There are an amazing number of different guppy types available in the hobby. There are 12 officially recognized tail types alone and combined with the various colors and patterns, the number becomes almost infinite!

Can different types live together?

Different types of guppies is kept together without any problems. Fancy guppies will breed freely together, so don’t mix them if you’re planning on breeding specific types.

How many should be kept together?

Guppies should be kept in groups of at least 3 or more. If you are keeping both males and females, keep at least 2 or 3 females for every male. This will give the females a break from all the attention.

How many times a day should I feed them?

Guppies is fed just once a day. These fish will spend much of their time foraging in the aquarium for algae and other food sources. Guppy fry will benefit from more frequent feeding, however.

What is their lifespan?

Healthy guppies will live for 1-3 years in captivity. There are reports of them living as long as five years, however.

Closing Thoughts

Guppies are one of the most genuinely diverse fish groups in the hobby. The variety in tail shape and color pattern is real, not marketing. If you’ve only ever kept common store guppies, you haven’t seen what this fish can actually look like when sourced from a quality breeder.

For beginners, a small group of fancy males in a 10-gallon (38 L) planted tank is one of the most rewarding and low-maintenance setups in freshwater. For experienced keepers, working with a specific variety or strain and breeding them selectively is a legitimate long-term project that serious hobbyists dedicate years to.

Where you source matters. I recommend Flip Aquatics (use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO) or Dan’s Fish for quality-bred fish that will actually live up to what guppies should be.

April 16, 2022

Tag: Freshwater

Ram Cichlid: Complete Care Guide (Care, Tank Mates, and Breeding)

The Reality of Keeping Ram Cichlid

Biggest Mistake New Ram Cichlid Owners Make

Table of Contents

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Ram Cichlid

Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid

Classification

Ram Cichlids Appearance

How Big Are They?

How Long Do They Live?

Temperament and Activity Level

Tank Mates

Aquarium Requirements

Tank Size

Water Parameters

Tank Setup

Breeding

The Birth Process

What do They Eat?

Diseases

Different Types

German Blue Rams

Bolivian

Golden Ram Cichlids

Electric Blue

3 Main Sources

How to Pick a Healthy Fish?

How to Distinguish between Male and Female?

FAQs

Is the Ram Cichlid Right for You?

What It Is Actually Like Living With Ram Cichlid

How the Ram Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

Final Thoughts

South American Cichlid Species Directory

Chili Rasbora: Complete Care Guide for the Hobby’s Most Striking Nano Fish

Table of Contents

Why Chili Rasboras Do Not Look Good in Most Tanks

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Chili Rasbora

Expert Take

Species Overview

Classification

Origins and Habitat

What Do They Look Like?

How Big Are They?

How Long Do They Live?

Temperament And Activity Level

What Are Good Tank Mates?

Best Tank Mates

Least Compatible Fish

Inverts

What Do They Eat?

Prepared Foods

Live & Frozen Foods

How Much And How Often To Feed Your Fish

Setting Up Your Fish Tank

Tank Size

Plants

Substrate

Decor

Water Quality

Filtration

Water Parameters

Aquarium Maintenance

Testing

Breeding

Sexing

How They Breed

Conditioning And Breeding Your Fish

Raising Fry

Health & Disease

Evaluating Your Their Health

Common Health Issues And Treatment

Where To Buy

FAQs

Is the Chili Rasbora Right for You?

What It Is Actually Like Keeping Chili Rasboras

How the Chili Rasbora Compares to Similar Species

Chili Rasbora vs Ember Tetra

Final Thoughts