Tag: Freshwater

  • Betta Bubble Nest: Why Your Betta Builds Them (And What It Tells You)

    Betta Bubble Nest: Why Your Betta Builds Them (And What It Tells You)

    Betta bubble nests are one of my favorite things to see in a betta tank. it’s a clear sign the fish is comfortable and healthy. I’ve kept many bettas over the years, and the bubble nest behavior is something I still find interesting to observe. A lot of keepers get confused when they first see it, thinking something is wrong. Here’s what bubble nests actually mean and what to do (or not do) about them.

    If you keep a male betta and notice a cluster of bubbles at the water surface, that’s actually good news. it means your fish is healthy, comfortable, and feeling secure in its environment. Bubble nest building is a natural breeding behavior in bettas, and in my experience, a betta that builds consistently is one that’s being kept well. Floating plants like Indian almond leaves and Amazon frogbit encourage nest building by giving the male a surface to anchor bubbles to. This article explains why bettas build them, what triggers the behavior, and what to do (and not do) when you find one in your tank.

    Introduction

    Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, are some of the most popular fish in the freshwater tropical fish hobby. The most common species of this fish, scientifically known as Betta splendens, originates from Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia.

    Today, these fish are regarded as a nano species, being successfully kept in 5 gallon and up aquariums. Bettas are very hardy, but need a constant water temperature between 78-80ยฐ F with more acidic water conditions. They are also more susceptible to fin rot due to their long, trailing fins.

    Male betta fish are much more ornate than their female counterparts, coming in nearly every color and pattern imaginable; some variations even change colors over time, like the koi betta fish! In contrast, females have much simpler color combinations and shorter fins. Contrary to popular belief though, both male and female betta fish are just as aggressive as one another and do best in species-only or solitary aquarium setups.

    Still, betta fish have been selectively bred in the aquarium hobby for centuries for their best colors, shapes, and sizes and are popular among aquarists at all levels. However, some of their natural behaviors have followed them into captivity, such as their unique bubble nest building ability.

    What Is A Betta Bubble Nest?

    If you’ve never kept a labyrinth fish before, you won’t know what a bubble nest is or what it looks like. You might not even realize your betta fish is making bubble nests and might mistake them for an equipment malfunction or poor water quality. When in fact, a bubble nest is usually a sure sign that your fish is very happy!

    What Is A Bubble Nest

    Before understanding why bettas make bubble nests, you need to be able to identify them. Bubble nests are tight clusters of small bubbles that are usually connected to the side of the aquarium glass or live floating plants and come in all shapes and sizes. These bubble nests take on a white, foamy appearance at the water’s surface which can be concerning to unknowing hobbyists.

    It should be noted that some bettas don’t build bubble nests at all. In fact, some wild species, like the Krabi mouth-brooding betta (Betta simplex), raise their young inside their mouths. However, Betta splendens, the most popular betta species to keep, do create bubble nests when they’re ready to reproduce, making these foamy creations a common sight for beginner and advanced hobbyists alike.

    Why Is Your Fish Making Them?

    In order to understand why betta fish make bubble nests, the natural habitat of betta fish needs to be considered. These fish come from hot, shallow, and stagnant water that is often cut off from influxes of nutrients and oxygen. This lack of oxygen especially has caused betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ.

    The labyrinth organ is a lung-like structure that allows betta fish to breathe atmospheric air from the surface of the water. This makes survival possible when dissolved oxygen levels are low due to warm temperatures or lack of water flow. In the aquarium setting, it has been found that bettas will still exhibit this behavior even if oxygen levels are adequate.

    However, bubble nests are made most often when male betta fish are ready to spawn. This is typically a good indicator that all environmental needs have been met and the fish is happy. However, some male fish will never make a bubble nest while others may make one every other week. If your male betta fish isn’t making a bubble nest on his own, then it is possible to transfer bubble nests between tanks.

    Once ready, the male betta will create a nest using a mix of oxygen and saliva. This nest will usually be situated against the glass of the aquarium or in a highly foliated area away from strong currents; these nests are very delicate and can easily be broken apart by overly strong water currents or other disruptions on the surface of the water!

    To help your betta fish successfully build a nest, it’s recommended to keep ambient air more humid than usual; some hobbyists place a plastic film over the cover of their betta tank to increase humidity levels. Tannins from organics and decomposing leaves, such as those from Indian almond leaves, may also help your fish keep its nest together.

    Indian Almond Leaves
    Indian Almond Leaves

    These leaves can be added to your aquarium to help promote a natural habitat for bettas, shrimp, and other soft-water loving fish. Betta breeders can use these leaves to help encourage breeding behavior.

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    Once the betta bubble nest has been built, it’s time for the spawning process to begin.

    Fish Spawning

    Male betta fish will build bubble nests when they’re ready to spawn. Sometimes, a female betta needs to be introduced first in order to trigger this response. In this case, the male betta fish will build a bubble nest in the 24 hours following the introduction of a female. If the female is not ready, then she may destroy the nest and the process will need to be restarted.

    During this time, the male will flash the female with a captivating dance and bold flaring (video reference). Eventually, the two will embrace with the male fertilizing eggs as the female releases them. The fertilized eggs will start to sink until the male carefully transfers them up into the bubble nest; the female may help during this process, though she is more likely to eat them than to help.

    Most female betta fish lay about 50 eggs at one time, though some have been known to lay close to 500.

    Do Females make this?

    For the most part, only male betta fish create bubble nests once they’re ready to mate. While rare, it’s not unheard of for female betta fish to create nests of their own.

    The process is the same, just without a male. The female betta will create a bubble nest out of saliva and oxygen, drop the unfertilized eggs, and place them into the nest.

    Have a short-finned male betta variety, like a plakat? Some short-finned male bettas have been mistaken for females, leading unknowing hobbyists to believe that their female fish has just built a nest. Though this is a matter of misidentification, female betta fish really do make their own nests sometimes!

    How To Take Care

    There are a few reasons why betta fish are popular to keep and breed. One, they’re beautiful fish that don’t require a lot of maintenance. Two, they’re one of the easiest species to breed because the male fish do all the work!

    Male betta fish make, protect, and care for their bubble nests until the fry have hatched. There are a few behaviors that male betta fish adopt to make sure that their bubble nest is as successful as it can be.

    Male Fish Behaviors

    When your male betta fish starts bubble nest building, it will take all of his attention. This is how these fish manage to make relatively large nests within a day!

    Once the bubble nest has been completed, the male will stay under the nest waiting for a potential mate. If a female betta fish enters his territory, then she will become the main focus. The male betta will then display his best colors and finnage while flaring his gills. During this courting, the male will chase and nip at the female, which can become deadly in overly aggressive situations.

    After mating, the male will spend the next day picking up and placing fertilized eggs in the bubbles. For the next few days, the male betta fish will ensure the health and safety of the nest. He will continue to stay underneath the bubbles, chasing away potential predators, including female bettas.

    At the same time, he will fan the nest to keep oxygen and nutrients flowing over the eggs. He will also eat and remove any abnormal or mold-infected eggs that could potentially harm the other eggs in the bubble nest. The male betta fish will also eat any leftover unfertilized eggs.

    Once the eggs hatch, the male will return to being a regular betta fish. At this point, the fry becomes viable food and the male should be returned back to his normal betta tank. The fry should be given small foods, like baby brine shrimp, until they’re ready to accept adult foods.

    Being so close to the surface of the water also helps the fry mature as they have direct access to oxygen rich air.

    Should You Remove It?

    For the most part, it won’t matter to your betta fish if you accidentally or purposefully destroy its nest. These nests regularly get disrupted in the wild and need to be rebuilt. If your fish is determined, then it will simply build another nest when it’s ready.

    Just because your male betta fish builds a bubble nest doesn’t mean you’ll have 50 baby betta fish swimming around your tank! Remember, a female needs to spawn with the male to deposit fertilized eggs. As long as there’s no potential mate, your male betta fish’s bubble nest will not result in baby bettas.

    But what if you don’t like how betta fish bubble nests look? Is it okay to remove them?

    Male betta fish can become especially territorial during these times, so it may be beneficial to remove the nest if keeping your betta in a community tank where other fish and invertebrates could be injured.

    It is also believed that bubble nest building provides enrichment to bettas. Though there are better ways to keep your betta fish entertained, giving your fish a new project to work on in the form of building another nest is encouraged from time to time.

    What Happens If You Destroy It?

    Nothing will happen if you destroy your betta’s bubble nest. Your fish won’t hate you or get stressed out. Betta fish can be quite resilient and determined if they need to be and will quickly rebuild their nest if they’re ready.

    For most hobbyists, bubble nests get in the way of performing regular tank maintenance. During water changes and substrate vacuuming, it can be very difficult to avoid a bubble nest and it will usually end up partially or fully destroyed.

    In this case, it is much more important that the fish receives proper care than for the bubble nest to be preserved. As mentioned before, the fish will quickly rebuild the nest if it’s ready to breed. However, special care should be given to fertilized nests. Disrupting a fertilized betta bubble nest can lead to the loss of the entire brood.

    Do They Go Away On Their Own?

    In general, there’s no reason to worry about a vacant bubble nest. It will likely dissipate on its own in a few days after being built. However, some betta fish will constantly maintain their bubble nests, adding new bubbles whenever they seem to thin out.

    Male betta fish are great parents. They keep their nests clean and oxygenated. But what happens if the nest sits empty for too long?

    In these cases, it’s recommended to regularly check the nest for signs of mold or other fungi that could be growing. Though this is unlikely to happen, it may be safer to remove the nest and start over new after a certain point to prevent contamination.

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish are some of the most interesting fish when it comes to their mating rituals. When they’re ready, males will build a bubble nest to store fertilized eggs from female bettas. However, a betta fish bubble nest is also a good sign of water quality, a quality diet, and an overall happy and healthy betta fish!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • Can Fish Drown? The Short Answer, the Long Answer, and What It Means for Your Tank

    Can Fish Drown? The Short Answer, the Long Answer, and What It Means for Your Tank

    Can fish drown? It’s one of those questions I get asked more than you’d expect. and the answer is yes, technically, though not in the way people imagine. I’ve seen hobbyists accidentally create conditions in their tanks where fish were effectively “drowning” through oxygen deprivation. Understanding how fish breathe and what depletes oxygen in a tank can genuinely save fish lives. Here’s the full explanation.

    It sounds like a trick question, but the answer is yes. fish can effectively drown, just not the way we think of it. “Drowning” for a fish means suffocating from lack of dissolved oxygen in the water, not inhaling water into lungs. As someone who’s managed tanks for 25 years, the more practical concern is recognizing when oxygen levels in your aquarium are dangerously low. Fish gasping at the surface is the classic warning sign. There’s also an interesting wrinkle with labyrinth fish like bettas. they breathe atmospheric air and can actually suffocate if they’re prevented from reaching the water’s surface. This article covers both the biology and the real-world implications for your tank.

    The Short Answer

    Yes, fish can drown. However, it’s better to think about a fish drowning as the result of a lack of oxygen instead of seeing their lungs fill with water.

    Fish can be deprived of oxygen due to several reasons, including oxygen levels in the water, poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and even physical deformities.

    In short though, fish can drown in water due to not being able to extract the oxygen they need from their surroundings.

    The Long Answer

    It isn’t every day that you hear about a fish dying due to drowning. This lack of oxygen can be due to several biological, chemical, and pathological problems within the aquarium including poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and deformities.

    First, we need to understand how oxygen enters the aquarium and how fish breathe. Then we can understand how the transfer of oxygen from the water to the bloodstream of the fish can fail.

    Dissolved Oxygen In The Aquarium

    Air Bubbler

    Dissolved oxygen, often abbreviated as DO, is how much oxygen is available in water in comparison to how much oxygen that water can hold; simply put, dissolved oxygen shows how much oxygen is available in the water to be used by plants and animals at any given time.

    While dissolved oxygen levels remain pretty consistent in the aquarium setting, this scientific parameter can be affected by several factors, including water temperature and depth, surface exchange, photosynthesis and respiration, and fish medications.

    Water Temperature And Depth

    Water temperature and depth are the main factors that influence dissolved oxygen levels in bodies of water.

    Due to the physical properties of water, cold water holds more oxygen while hot water holds less oxygen. This means that the warmest surface waters, that aren’t affected by surface exchange, hold less oxygen than the coldest water at the very bottom of the ocean. Other external factors, such as seasonal, altitude, and latitude differences, all play a role in how much oxygen is actually available at any given time.

    In the aquarium, the water temperature can definitely affect dissolved oxygen levels. For instance, if you need to raise water temperatures to treat a parasite, like ich, it is recommended to increase surface agitation and to add an air stone and air pump. This is because the warmed water will hold significantly less oxygen, causing your already-sick fish to have even more difficulty breathing.

    Though it is likely for fish to succumb to the shock of rapidly changing temperatures first, it is possible for fish to drown if oxygen levels are low in warm water.

    Surface Agitation

    Surface agitation is one of the ways that oxygen enters the water column. This is a physical exchange between atmospheric oxygen and water through wind and wave action. Other gases, such as carbon dioxide, are also exchanged at this point to create a cycle.

    In the aquarium, surface agitation is very important. Filters, powerheads, and air stones are common methods of increasing surface agitation to help increase dissolved oxygen levels and to improve overall gas exchange. If surface agitation is poor in the aquarium, then dissolved oxygen levels will also be low.

    This is a very common problem in betta fish (Betta splendens) aquariums. These labyrinth fish are very delicate and need little to no water flow in order to prevent injury. As a result, there is usually minimal surface agitation, leaving the betta to sometimes rely on its labyrinth organ; the labyrinth organ is a specialized lung-like organ that allows the fish to process atmospheric air directly.

    Photosynthesis And Respiration

    Photosynthesis is the process by which an organism converts carbon dioxide into oxygen in order to make food. Respiration is the opposite of this process where oxygen is converted back into carbon dioxide.

    During the day, aquatic plants and vegetation perform photosynthesis while fish perform respiration. At night, both plants and fish respire. Together, this ecosystem works as a constant exchange between carbon dioxide and oxygen.

    In freshwater and saltwater systems, autotrophic plankton called plankton is responsible for producing most of the available oxygen in the world. However, an imbalance between photosynthesis and respiration can lead to problems and fish drowning.

    One of the most damaging events to happen in nature is a harmful algae bloom (HAB). Harmful algae blooms happen when nutrients and resources are abundant, usually due to excess fertilizer and runoff, leading to exponential growth. This growth can be seen in algae and some harmful bacteria, like cyanobacteria, that can produce deadly toxins.

    When algae and bacteria populations are left to grow out of control, there becomes an imbalance of resources. Eventually, sunlight is blocked while nutrients are depleted, depriving the plants below of performing photosynthesis and putting oxygen back into the system. Once these plants die, the decomposition of the organic matter also increases nutrient and respiration rates, fueling growth and further depleting oxygen.

    As this happens, oxygen levels are incredibly low and most fish and invertebrates suffer and die. If the harmful algae bloom is caused by cyanobacteria, they may be affected by deadly toxins as well; these toxins are why some bodies of water are off-limits to people during harmful algae blooms.

    Harmful algae blooms to this extreme are not likely to happen in the aquarium, though strains of harmful cyanobacteria do exist in the hobby. Instead, it is possible to have too many nutrient-hungry plant species that quickly overrun the aquarium and then die off when resources are depleted. This die off can have similar effects where the decomposition quickly removes oxygen from the water.

    Medications

    spectrogram Medication

    Many medications for freshwater and saltwater fish advise increasing aeration during the treatment period. This is due to how the medications interact with the water chemistry. Effects can be enhanced if mixing medications.

    Not all medications will lower the oxygen level in the tank, but it’s definitely worth running an air pump if it is advised.

    How Do Fish Breathe?

    Before we see how fish drown, we need to understand how they breathe first. Here is a great video below by Steve Griffins. I’ll explain more below.

    Most fish breathe through their gills; many fish have made adaptations to combat lower oxygen levels, though we will only look at standard fish anatomy. Gills provide a large and highly-folded surface area with an extensive network of capillaries that can be used for the exchange of gases, like oxygen and carbon dioxide.

    In order to breathe, fish pull water into their mouth which is then pushed across their gills. Oxygen is absorbed and diffused into the bloodstream and transferred throughout the body due to differing concentrations; the concentration of oxygen is lower in the blood than in the surrounding environment.

    Carbon dioxide is then moved across the gills, out of the body of the fish, and back into the water.

    Can Fish Drown?

    Now that we know what affects dissolved oxygen levels and how fish breathe, we can see where the process can go wrong. Possible problems include poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and physical deformities.

    Some of the telltale signs of a drowning fish are:

    • Heavy breathing
    • Red or inflamed gills
    • Laying at the bottom of the aquarium or gasping for air at the surface

    Poor Water Quality

    Poor water quality can be a secret killer of fish, especially if water parameters aren’t being regularly tested. Bad water parameters, namely high levels of ammonia and nitrite, can make breathing very difficult and very painful for fish.

    It should be noted that high levels of nitrate can also prove to be deadly to fish and invertebrates but is not as common of a problem as the other parameters.

    Ammonia Poisoning

    Ammonia poisoning happens when there are especially high levels of ammonia present in the aquarium; any level of ammonia past 0.0 ppm can be damaging to fish and invertebrates, but serious damage starts to happen past 0.5 ppm.

    Ammonia is toxic and will burn the internal and external organs of fish, including gills. This can quickly lead to fish being unable to pull enough oxygen across their gills, leaving them to suffocate and drown.

    High levels of ammonia are usually caused by having too many fish, excess feedings, or stocking an aquarium that is not fully cycled.

    Nitrite Poisoning

    Nitrite poisoning is just as deadly as ammonia poisoning and can be a much more silent killer. Again, nitrite levels should always be 0.0 ppm. Any amount past this can start to cause damage to internal and external organs.

    Nitrite poisoning happens when there are excess levels of nitrite in the aquarium. Due to the chemical structure of hemoglobin, nitrite can bind to blood where oxygen would otherwise. This means that your fish will suffocate from the inside out, making for a very painful death.

    High levels of nitrite are the result of high levels of ammonia; any trace of nitrite is indicative of a nitrogen cycle happening in the fish tank.

    Parasites And Diseases

    Unfortunately, many parasites and diseases that are in the fish tank target the gills of fish. Luckily, most parasites and diseases present themselves before there is irreversible damage, but some ailments might be quicker and more difficult to treat than others.

    One of the worst parasites to encounter are species of flatworm, particularly from the Monogenenea class.

    Gill Flukes

    Gills flukes (Dactylogyrus spp.) are one of the most dangerous parasites that can make fish drown. These flukes are most likely to occur on members of the Cyprinidae family, including goldfish and koi, though they can infect any freshwater fish species.

    Gill flukes are initially free-swimming parasites that quickly need to find a host. At that point, they attach to the gills of the fish and reproduce. The gills will then become inflamed and your fish may try to scratch itself against hard surfaces to try to get them off. This can lead to a secondary infection, making treatment even more difficult.

    A gill fluke infection often presents itself as red and inflamed gills, lack of appetite, scratching, and heavy breathing. Parasitic-specific medications, like Praziquantel, will need to be dosed to eradicate the flukes.

    Ich

    Freshwater Ich

    Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is one of the most common parasites to come across in the aquarium. Though these organisms do not target fish’s gills specifically, they can infect the gills which can cause the fish to drown; unfortunately, there are a few different types of ich that will only affect gills and leave the rest of the body alone, making the initial diagnosis difficult.

    Otherwise, ich is easy to diagnose and presents itself as tiny white spots that cover the body of the fish. Other symptoms are similar to those found with gill flukes.

    Deformities

    Lastly, some physical deformities can cause aquarium fish to drown, specifically betta fish.

    Betta fish have been bred to have the most extreme colors and finnage. While beautiful to look at, some of these modifications have turned into deformities that hinder the fish from being able to breathe air.

    Though betta fish have gills that they can use to get enough oxygen from the water, they will still venture to the surface of the fish tank to take in atmospheric air regardless of water parameters. However, some deformities, like excess finnage, can drag your labyrinth fish down, never allowing them to get the atmospheric air they need.

    At the same time, your fish may become exhausted while trying to swim to the top of the tank. This activity will cause your fish to breathe harder, which will cause carbon dioxide levels to rise. Though this only happens in extreme cases, it’s possible for your betta fish to over-exhaust itself and not get enough oxygen from the water as a result.

    Does Your Aquarium Have Enough Oxygen?

    As long as the water is flowing in the aquarium and regular tank maintenance is maintained, there’s usually no reason to worry about adding additional aeration to the system. However, problems may arise when too many fish are kept in too small of a tank or if water movement is inadequate.

    How To Improve Aquarium Oxygenation

    The best ways to improve oxygenation in the aquarium are through equipment, tank maintenance, and photosynthetic additions.

    In general, it’s recommended to choose a filter that is rated for at least double the size of your aquarium. Not only does this allow for more beneficial bacteria growth, but the subsequent surface agitation is a great source of oxygenation.

    Freshwater tanks need at least a 6-10x turnover rate; heavily planted tanks will need better circulation to ensure that water can pass through. Saltwater reef tanks may need at least a 20x turnover rate with specialized tanks reaching much higher.

    In addition to filtration, powerheads and wavemakers can be added to the freshwater or saltwater aquarium. If using external filtration, water will also be oxygenated as it moves from the tank and through the plumbing. Protein skimmers may also be added to the saltwater aquarium for additional filtration and oxygenation.

    While filtration and equipment will help create surface agitation and distribute oxygen throughout the tank, corals and plants may also be added for additional photosynthesis. Fast-growing plants will quickly take up nutrients, releasing oxygen into the water in the process. Symbiotic algae within coral are slightly slower to photosynthesize, but they will contribute to oxygen levels while helping take up excess nutrients as well.

    Regular tank maintenance will also introduce new oxygen and help accelerate gas exchange. Though this is a temporary effect, water changes are very effective for aerating and circulating new water throughout the tank.

    Final Thoughts

    Believe it or not, fish can drown. There are many factors that determine oxygen levels in the aquarium, including water temperature and depth, surface exchange, photosynthesis and respiration, and medications. Water quality, parasites and diseases, and physical deformities can further make it difficult for fish to breathe, leaving them to drown.

    If you’re not sure about how much water flow you should have in your aquarium, add as much as you can without disturbing the substrate or stressing out fish and invertebrates.

  • Angelfish Tank Mates: My 15 Best Picks (And 4 I’d Avoid)

    Angelfish Tank Mates: My 15 Best Picks (And 4 I’d Avoid)

    Angelfish tank mates are one of those topics where I see people make the same mistake over and over: forgetting that angels are cichlids. I’ve kept angelfish in community tanks for decades, and the wrong tank mates can bring out real aggression. especially as the fish mature. These 15 picks are the ones I’d actually trust in an angelfish community, with honest notes on what to watch for.

    Angelfish are cichlids. and a lot of hobbyists forget that when they’re stocking a community tank. They’re generally peaceful, but they will eat smaller fish as they grow, and a breeding pair can become surprisingly territorial. I’ve seen neon tetras disappear overnight once angelfish in the same tank hit 3 inches. The tank mates that work best are mid-to-large tetras, corydoras, peaceful gouramis, and other similarly-sized community fish. This guide covers 15 species that consistently coexist well with angelfish, and 4 that I’d avoid based on experience.

    Choosing Angelfish Tank Mates- What You Need To Know

    Putting together a peaceful community aquarium can be a bit of a juggling act. You need to make sure every fish in the tank will be happy and get along. Angelfish make the perfect centerpiece fish for tropical community tanks, and it’s a good idea to start by building the tank around their needs.

    All you need to do then is make sure that all the other fish are compatible with your angelfish and the conditions it prefers. Before we move on to some great angelfish tank mates, let’s take a few minutes to get to know the star of the show!

    Temperament

    Angelfish are very peaceful as far as cichlids go. If you have a breeding pair, expect them to become a little more aggressive, however, especially with their own species. Angelfish will also defend their nest site against any intruders after breeding.

    Size

    Angelfish grow pretty large, so there isn’t a whole lot of common aquarium fish that can eat your angels. A standard angelfish can reach 6 inches in length and 8 inches from top to bottom, and altum angels grow even bigger!

    Despite their size, angelfish have pretty small mouths compared with other cichlids. They are generally safe around smaller fish, but they will eat any fish small enough to swallow whole. Fish fry and very small nano species should not be kept with angelfish.

    Competition

    Angelfish are not the fastest-moving fish, but they can be pretty competitive around mealtimes. Avoid keeping fish that are too slow to get their fair share of the food. It is best to watch your fish closely to make sure no one is getting out-competed.

    Feeding different areas of the tank simultaneously and using a combination of floating and sinking foods can be very helpful to spread out the competition.

    Parameters & Aquarium Setup

    Before you can choose suitable tank mates, it’s important to understand the needs of your angelfish. Angelfish are tropical freshwater fish that prefer water temperatures between 78 and 84ยฐF. This is on the warmer side so it’s important that their tank mates are comfortable in the same temperatures.

    Angelfish require good water quality, with zero ammonia or nitrite in the water. They prefer water with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, between 6.5 and 7.8. The water flow in the tank should be gentle because angelfish are not very strong swimmers.

    The 15 Best

    After reading about how to select tank mates for your angelfish, you’re probably very interested to learn about some great options! I’ve put together a list of 15 awesome compatible species to help you choose. Check out our video below from our YouTube channel. More detail is provided in the blog post below.

    Even though each species on the list will make a great addition to your angelfish tank, make sure you pay attention to the following important information:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum tank size
    • Care Level
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Swimming Level

    Now let’s get started!

    1. Corydoras Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons for most species
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Mostly bottom dwellers

    Corydoras catfish, or cory cats as they are affectionately known, are awesome little bottom dwellers for tropical fish tanks. There are many different species to choose from in the aquarium hobby.

    Corydoras catfish are social fish so make sure you pick up a group of at least 5 of the same species. They are incredibly peaceful little fish that will not bother your angelfish. The fact that they stay on the bottom means they will add another layer of interest and activity to your aquarium.

    2. Ram Cichlids

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 80-86ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Venezuela, Brazil & Colombia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Ram cichlids are an amazing dwarf cichlid with great colors. Unlike other South American cichlid species, these fish are peaceful and stay very small. Rams come in some amazing color varieties like electric blue and golden.

    Ram cichlids are shy little fish that need pristine water quality. This means they aren’t a great choice for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will find these stunning fish make an awesome tank mate for their angelfish!

    3. Molly Fish

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops & Poecilia latipinna
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Origin: South, Central, & North America
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Molly fish can make great tank mates for your angelfish. These hardy fish are livebearers that will breed readily in your aquarium. The fry usually get snapped up pretty quickly in community tanks but ask for females only if you would prefer them to not breed.

    There are many great types of molly fish in the hobby, including sail fins and balloon varieties. Mollies prefer higher pH than most other tropical fish species, so they should only be kept in tanks with a pH over 7.5.

    4. Kribensis

    Kribensis Cichlid Male and Female
    • Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
    • Adult Size: 3-4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75-81ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Nigeria, Cameroon
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The kribensis is a stunning cichlid from over the ocean in West Africa. These small fish are happy in the same water parameters as angelfish, making them an ideal tank mate.

    Kribensis are dwarf cichlids that spend most of their time at the tank bottom. These fish have a peaceful nature but can be aggressive towards other members of their own species, so it is best to keep them in a pair.

    5. Rosy Tetras

    <a href=Rosy Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557793″/>
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon rosaceus
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Brazil, Suriname & Guyana
    • Swimming Level: Mid-water

    Rosy tetras are a little-known but awesome tropical aquarium fish. They are very small fish but they are safe to keep with larger angelfish because of their shape. It is best to keep 6 or more of these peaceful schooling fish in a community aquarium so that they can be more confident and behave naturally.

    6. Zebra Danios

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-78ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Zebra danios are another species that make great tank mates for freshwater angelfish. They will add more activity and excitement to your angelfish tank without bothering their tank mates.

    They are hardy fish that get their common name from their black and white striped bodies. Zebra danio fish are lively little creatures that are very peaceful and easy to care for.

    7. Cardinal Tetra

    Cardinal Tetra Fish
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.25 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73-84ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The cardinal tetra is one of the most colorful tropical aquarium fish in the hobby. Apart from their colors, the great thing about these tetra fish is how peaceful they are! A school of 6 or more would make ideal tank mates for your freshwater angelfish.

    8. Bristle Nose Plecos

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-79 ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

    Bristlenose plecos are really strange-looking bottom feeders that make one of the best angelfish tank mates. These bottom-dwelling fish hail from the Amazon river basin but have found a second home in aquariums all over the world.

    Bristlenose plecos are very peaceful with other fish, but they should be the only member of their species unless you have a very large tank. There is also a Albino variety available.

    9. Otocinclus Catfish

    Otocinclus Catfish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Algae
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Otocinclus catfish are amazing algae eaters that will help to keep your glass, hardscape, and plants clean. These hardworking tank cleaners look great too, and they can be very interesting to watch as they zoom around the tank looking for new feeding spots.

    Otos need a good supply of algae to stay healthy, so make sure you wait until your tank is mature before introducing them.

    10. Praecox Rainbow Fish

    Rainbow Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: New Guinea
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Rainbowfish are another great schooling fish that can really help to liven up your aquarium. The praecox rainbowfish is just one of many rainbowfish that make great angelfish tank mates.

    Rainbowfish need great water quality but are otherwise easy to care for. They should be kept in groups of 6 or more to bring out the best of their colors and behaviors.

    11. Harlequin Rasbora

    Rasboras
    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.25-1.75 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    These popular freshwater fish are recognizable by their bright orange color and the black triangular marking on their sides. They are very attractive fish that look amazing as they school together in the water column. Harlequin rasboras are very peaceful fish that add will vibrant color and activity to your angelfish community aquarium.

    12. Cherry Barbs

    Male Cherry Barb
    Male
    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Not all barb species make good tank mates for angelfish, but the peaceful cherry barb makes an excellent choice! These popular shoaling fish have a peaceful nature, making them a great community fish. Cherry barbs are a social species, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6.

    13. Rummy Nose Tetras

    Rummy Nose Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 76-80ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Amazon river basin, Brazil & Venezuela
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Rummy nose tetras are schooling fish that make great tank mates for angelfish. They are active community fish that should be kept in groups of ten or more to see them at their best. The rummy nose tetra needs excellent water quality to really thrive so good filtration and regular maintenance are very important.

    14. Nerite Snails

    Best Algae Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail

    Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

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    • Scientific Name: Neritina spp., Vittina spp., Clithon spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Algae
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Origin: Africa & Asia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    If you’re looking for some excellent tank cleaners for your angelfish community setup, nerite snails could be a perfect choice. These harmless aquarium snails have beautiful shells and do an amazing job of eating pesky algae in the tank. One of the best things about these snails is that they can’t breed in freshwater, so you never have to worry about them becoming a pest!

    15. Black Skirt Tetra

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Adult Size: 2-2.4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Argentina, Bolivia, & Brazil
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The black skirt tetra is another peaceful species of schooling fish that works great with freshwater angelfish. These fish are also known as the black widow tetra but don’t worry, there’s nothing dangerous about them.

    Black skirt tetras are active swimmers that should be kept in groups of 6 or more. They aren’t the most colorful tetras, but this can help draw attention to your centerpiece fish, the angels.

    Bonus Tank Mates For Angelfish

    The 15 peaceful fish in this list make awesome tank mates for freshwater angelfish, but there are many other options to choose from. Here are a few more popular species to consider:

    4 Fish To Avoid

    Now that you know 15 great tank mates for angelfish, let’s take a look at some common species that you should avoid:

    1. Goldfish

    The obvious problem with goldfish is that they are coldwater fish that prefer water that is 72ยฐF or cooler. This is too cold for your angelfish, so the two species are not compatible. For the same reason, other coldwater fish like white cloud mountain minnows and dojo loaches do not make good angelfish tank mates.

    2. Betta Fish

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    Bettas are slow-moving fish with long flowing fins. Keeping them with angelfish is risky because they can be easy targets for aggressive individuals. Some fish keepers might have had success, but I would not recommend trying this combo.

    3. Semi-aggressive Barbs

    Some aggressive species of barbs are notorious fin nippers and will not make good tankmates for angelfish. Tiger barbs, including green tiger barbs and Glofish barbs, should not be added to your angelfish community.

    Other potential fin-nipping species like zebra loaches and head and tail light tetras should also be avoided.

    4. Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater Shrimp
    Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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    Angelfish will not think twice about snacking on freshwater shrimp. Some shrimp might survive in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding space, but you’ll probably see their population decreasing pretty steadily!

    Angelfish Community Aquarium Setup

    Setting up an awesome angelfish community tank could be as simple as introducing other fish to your existing aquarium. If you don’t already have an angelfish community tank, here’s what you need to know:

    Introducing Aquarium Companions

    It’s really important to have a backup plan in case your angelfish don’t get along with their new tank mates. At the end of the day, each fish has its own personality, and what works for a hundred other fish keepers might not work in your tank.

    I recommend setting up a small, inexpensive aquarium separate from your angelfish community tank. This tank only needs to be a few gallons, with a small filter and a heater. If war breaks out after you introduce tank mates, they can always be moved into this tank temporarily until you return them to the store or make another plan.

    A tank like this has other great benefits too. New fish can be quarantined in this tank before going in with your angelfish to prevent spreading any diseases to your other fish. It will really come in handy down the line if any of your fish get sick and need a hospital tank.

    If you have some issues with angelfish aggression, check out this video below by Hardyaquariums. His 5 tips are summarized below:

    • Balance the number of males and females
    • Buy dither fish for your angelfish to chase around (like Danios)
    • Get a bigger aquarium that is tall
    • Make hiding spaces for your angelfish for them to claim territory
    • Feed your angelfish well – Well fed fish will not fight as much

    Aquarium Size

    Angelfish can be kept in tanks as small as 29 gallons. Some fish keepers even go as low as 20 gallons, but I would recommend going larger if you can. 55 gallons or larger will allow you the room to create a thriving and busy angelfish community with loads of amazing tropical tank mates.

    One important thing to remember when picking out a tank is the angelfish body shape. These fish have really deep bodies that are taller than they are long. Tall tanks are therefore a better choice than long ones.

    Heating

    Angelfish prefer warm water between 78 and 84ยฐF. You’re going to need an aquarium heater to maintain this temperature in your tank. Make sure the heater you buy is rated for the size of your aquarium.

    I recommend using a thermometer if your heater does not have a display, this makes monitoring the water temperature in your tank much easier. Heater control is even better if it’s within your budget.

    Filtration

    Maintaining a healthy and beautiful angelfish community aquarium is almost impossible without good-quality filtration. There are so many different types of aquarium filters on the market, however, so which type should you choose?

    Aquarium filters come in different sizes, but the amount of water the manufacturers claim they can filter is just a guideline really. I recommend opting for a slightly larger filter if it doesn’t take up too much room. Canister filters are ideal for this purpose because they can be kept out of sight in the cabinet under your tank.

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    Hang on back and internal filters work great too, just make sure the filter isn’t producing too much current. Remember, angelfish aren’t very strong swimmers! A filter with an adjustable output is very useful for dialing in the perfect flow.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance is very important for maintaining happy and healthy fish in your angelfish community tank. Here’s what you need to do:

    • Use a test kit regularly to monitor your water parameters. Your nitrate levels should not go over about 30 parts per million, and ammonia and nitrite should always read zero.
    • Remove any physical waste and uneaten fish food from the bottom of your tank with a gravel vacuum.
    • Perform a partial water change 2-4 times per month to keep your nitrate levels safe.
    • Follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter model, and rinse out the media when necessary.

    Feeding

    Angelfish are not that picky about their diet. These fish can be fed a staple diet of dried food like pellets (like Fluval Bug Bites) and freeze dried foods. Supplement this diet with frozen or live foods like brine shrimp and blanched veggies like zucchini for a complete and balanced diet.

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    Fluval Bug Bites – Tropical Formula

    Fluval bug bites tropical fish is an excellent staple food for most tropical fish. Made of black solider fly larvae

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    Not all of the tank mates in this list will thrive on this diet so it’s important to cater to each species in the tank. Bottom dwellers like cory catfish, for example, should be given sinking pellets or tablets. Algae eaters like otocinclus catfish will need a steady diet of algae, but you can suppliment this algae wafers.

    Avoid overfeeding your fish because uneaten food can spoil and cause dangerous ammonia spikes. Feeding your fish small amounts of food more than once a day is a good way to avoid this. Another good tip is to provide only enough food for the fish to finish in a minute or two.

    Live Plants

    Angelfish thrive in a heavily planted tank. Fortunately, so do all the other fish species on this list! Many fishkeepers think you need very deep pockets and a degree in botany to grow live aquarium plants, but it’s actually really easy to get started.

    If you’ve never grown live plants before here are a few things to know:

    • Plants need light to grow. Different species need different amounts of light, but there are many aquarium plants you can grow under regular aquarium lighting.
    • Plants need nutrients. Different types of plants get their nutrients in different ways. Some types of plants can be grown without soil or substrate and get their nutrients from liquid fertilizers. Other types of plants need nutrients at their roots.
    • Plants need carbon dioxide. All plants need CO2 to grow, but some species need more than others. If you want to get serious about growing plants, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 injection system. If you’re just starting out, choose low light, low CO2 plants.

    You’ll find loads of great articles on caring for different plants on this website, go ahead and check them out. Growing live plants is fun, and your angels and their tank mates will thank you for it!

    Substrate & Decorations

    The substrate is the sand or gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. There are so many different types available that it can be hard to pick one! The color is up to you, but most aquarium fish seem to prefer darker colors.

    Sand or gravel can work great, just make sure they are aquarium safe and that you wash them out thoroughly before setting up the tank. There are some great aquarium soils available for planted tanks. Avoid these unless you plan on growing a lot of plants.

    Decorations can turn an average-looking fish tank into an amazing one. As with the substrate, you can use your creativity and decide whether to go for a natural look or create a unique scene. Again, its really important that anything you put into the tank is clean and aquarium-safe. Natural decor like driftwood or aquarium rocks are great if you want to try build to an aquascape style

    Where To Buy

    Most of the angelfish tank mates in this list are common species that are easy to find in most aquarium stores and pet shops. If you don’t have a decent local fish store where you live, you can always go ahead and order your fish online. Buying online will also give you access to rarer breeds.

    FAQS

    What Fish Can Be Kept With This Type of Fish?

    Popular aquarium fish like cory catfish, otos, rainbow fish, and many types of tetras can be kept with angelfish. There are plenty of other fish species that make great angelfish tankmates too. The ideal tank mates are peaceful fish that enjoy the same water parameters.

    What Fish Do They Not Get Along With?

    Angelfish should not be kept with aggressive fish or fin nippers. Avoid larger cichlids like oscars and small aggressive fish like tiger barbs.

    Are They Good Community Fish?

    Angelfish make great peaceful community fish if they are kept with the right tank mates. They can be a little aggressive when breeding but are generally safe to keep with other peaceful fish that enjoy the same conditions.

    How Many Can Be Kept Together?

    Angelfish can be kept in pairs or small groups of 4-6 individuals. The number of angelfish you can keep together will also depend on the size of your tank. These fish can get territorial when breeding, so it’s important that the non-breeding angelfish have enough space to avoid conflict.

    Final Thoughts

    Angelfish are easily one of the most beautiful species for freshwater aquariums and they make great community fish too. With the right tank mates and knowledge, any fishkeeper can create a thriving tropical community in their own home.

    So what are you waiting for? Go ahead and start planning your own angelfish community today!

    Do you have an angelfish community tank? Tell us about your favorite angelfish tank mates in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Can You Use Distilled Water in a Fish Tank? (The Real Answer)

    Can You Use Distilled Water in a Fish Tank? (The Real Answer)

    Distilled water in aquariums is something I get asked about regularly, especially from hobbyists trying to hit very specific water parameters for soft-water fish or discus. I’ve used it myself as part of RO/DI blends for my reef tank. The short answer is that distilled water alone is actually too pure. it’s stripped of everything, including minerals fish need. Here’s the real explanation and how to use it correctly.

    The short answer is: you can use distilled water in a fish tank, but not straight from the jug. Distilled water has had all minerals removed. which sounds clean, but for fish it’s actually dangerous. There’s no buffering capacity, so pH becomes unstable and can crash rapidly. Fish need some dissolved minerals to regulate their bodies. Where distilled water is genuinely useful is in reef keeping, where I use RO/DI water (similar to distilled) to top off evaporation and then add minerals back precisely through two-part dosing. For freshwater, mixing distilled with tap can also help soften water for species like discus or German blue rams that need low hardness. This article explains when and how to use it correctly.

    What Is It?

    As we know, water has three states; liquids, solid, and gas. The distillation process involves boiling the water to an extend it starts evaporating. The water is then allowed to cool down at low temperature and condensed back into its original liquid form.

    This water distillation process eliminates germs, bacteria, other impurities, and minerals from water, leaving behind pure distilled water1.

    It was once a misconception that distilled water heated faster than normal tap water. Therefore, it was dangerous to consume back then. However, this theory was ruled out and it was confirmed that distilled water is like regular tap water. If you want a breakdown on how the distillation process works, check out the video below by Pure Water Distllers.

    Today, distilled water is used in numerous applications: batteries, steam irons, cooling systems for vehicles, and sometimes in aquariums.

    Is It Safe To Use?

    As mentioned above, using distilled water in aquariums is becoming popular day by day because distilled water doesn’t contain chemicals mostly found in tap water such as Chlorine and Chloramine. So, novice aquarists believe distilled water is the safest option for aquariums.

    However, it is not recommended to use an exclusive supply of distilled water in your fish tanks. Your aquatic life demands certain minerals for their survival. And there’s no source of those essential minerals in distilled water for your fish.

    Distilled water also poses a negative impact on the water pH levels; as minerals in water helps maintain the pH levels in your aquarium, which is essential for the survival of your fish. distilled water lacks minerals like Calcium that won’t help buffer ph and water hardness.

    But there are instances where pure distilled water can be used in the tank water.

    1. If your aquarium is losing water, pure distilled water can be used to top off.
    2. Distilled water can be added to reduce the water hardness of normal tap water.

    Whatever the case may be, distilled water has zero essential minerals in it to sustain the aquatic life as minerals are essential for aquatic plants and life and also help buffer ph.

    But you can still use distilled water in your fish tanks by mixing it with mineralizing supplements or water that help your fish stay healthy and stabilize water pH levels as well.

    Can You Use Distilled Water In A Fish Tank?

    Freshwater fish and plants, both require water loaded with natural minerals, which is found in tap water. The tap water in the freshwater fish tanks allows the aquatic plants to photosynthesize. Additionally, many invertebrates including shrimps need these essential minerals to grow and thrive happily in your fish tank.

    If you’re planning to use distilled water in a freshwater fish tank, measures should be taken to maintain mineral balance to stabilize ph levels and water hardness accordingly. If there’s no need to use distilled water in freshwater fish tanks, I suggest avoiding using it. That’s because on one end, it gives you more control over nutrient input and output, on the other hand, it gets very costly and can be difficult to manage specially for novice fish keepers.

    Contrary to distilled water, I highly recommend using tap water in freshwater fish tanks because it’s already rich in all the beneficial minerals required for a healthy aquarium. Treated tap water with a de-chlorinator like Seachem Prime will be fine for most aquariums.

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    If you venture into planted tanks, discus fish, and saltwater tanks, remineralized distilled water can be a consideration.

    Should you use Tap Water for Saltwater?

    Toadstool Coral in Reef Tank

    Aquarium experts are usually reluctant to use tap water in saltwater tanks. That’s because the water parameters of saltwater aquarium need to be precise than a freshwater aquarium and many unknown nutrients enter the tank water and cause unnecessary problems.

    The water parameters in saltwater: Salinity, pH, Carbonate hardness, Phosphates, Calcium, etc. However, the major problem in saltwater is the levels of these components can fluctuate on and off, creating instability and leading to algae problems in the tank water.

    Not only this, but tap water introduces many other impurities that can mess up with your aquarium ecosystem. Therefore, many seasoned aquarists choose other reliables sources of water such as distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or reverse osmosis deionized (RODI) water, other than tap water.

    How to Use In Your Tanks?

    Suppose you own a freshwater fish tank and you know all the consequences of using distilled water in a freshwater aquarium. But still, you want to use distilled water. Sure, you have your reasons. And yes, you can use distilled water and NOT harm your fish by following these precautionary steps. Following these steps will prevent a fatal effect on your aquarium health.

    Re-mineralized

    The minerals in tap water create a healthy and stable environment for your fish. Therefore, to make distilled water safe for your fish, you first need to remineralize it.

    How to Remineralize for tanks

    There are numerous ways you can remineralize distilled water for a fish tank.

    Mixing in Epsom Salt, Calcium Chloride, and Baking soda

    This is one of the best and most cost-effective ways of remineralizing distilled water.

    All the above-mentioned nutrients work in a rhythmic pattern to make your fish tank a living heaven for your fish.

    1. Epsom salt helps raise the magnesium level in distilled water
    2. Calcium chloride ensures proper osmotic balance in the aquarium water by bringing the crucial minerals
    3. Baking soda helps raise the pH levels of distilled water and ensures a stable ph.
    Adding water conditioner, Baking soda, and Acid Buffer

    Another easy method to remineralize distilled water is taking some water conditioner, containing essential minerals. Add baking soda so the pH levels of distilled water can be raised, and then an acid buffer to bring down the pH levels by 7.

    Add Seachem Equilibrium or Shrimp Mineral (Recommended)

    For freshwater tanks, adding Seachem Equilibrium in distilled water to remineralize it, does wonders.

    For this, I recommend using a commercial remineralize that comes with instructions for proper usage and dosage to avoid inconvenience.

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    And if you’re looking to remineralize distilled water for a shrimp tank, I strongly recommend using shrimp mineral to add essential minerals to the tank water for your healthy and happy shrimps.

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    SaltyShrimp – Shrimp Mineral

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    A gentle reminder:

    • Never use only distilled water in your fish tank as this would harm the fish. They possess a selectively permeable membrane which may lead to a trauma (caused by osmosis) when placed in distilled water. A good example of fish that is highly susceptible to such trauma is are Betta fish.

    Proper tank and water maintenance

    When changing the water in your fish tank, youโ€™ll need to be familiar with some of the tips I provided. This will help preserve the lives of your fish and the tank in which they are kept.

    Make sure to clean your tank when the need arises or you might just be harboring a foreign pathogenic species. The good thing about this is that you donโ€™t need to visit an expert in order to get it done. Just ensure that there are no leakages before draining the water in your fish tank so that they donโ€™t flow into a nearby stream when doing this!

    FAQS

    Is This Type Safe For Fish?

    On it’s own, distilled water is not safe for fish. Distilled water lacks trace elements and materials that are essential to the lives of your aquatic inhabitants. You can use a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks or marine salt mix for saltwater tanks to get these missing elements back into your water.

    What Water Is Best?

    For freshwater tanks, the best for the money is tap water treated with a decholorinator. For planted tanks or sensitive fish like Discus Fish, RO or distilled water that is mineralized work great. For reef tanks, RODI water is the best.

    Can I Top Off My Tanks With this type of water?

    Yes, you can top off your fish tank with distilled water. Trace elements and minerals remain in your aquarium when water evaporates. You are just replacing the lost water, which makes distilled water okay to use for top off.

    Is Spring Water Better For Tanks?

    Distilled Water that is remineralized would be a better choice. Spring water’s make up can differ from brand to brand, which can cause shock to your fish. Distilled will be a more consistent source – just remineralize it.

    How Do You Remineralize Water?

    You can purchase a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks. For saltwater tanks, marine salt mix will remineralize your water.

    Final Thoughts

    So, when shouldnโ€™t you consider filling your fish tank with distilled water?

    Never use distilled water only when youโ€™re changing water in your fish tank!

    I hope you got that clearly, right? The reason for this is because of the immediate change in pH that this will cause and the lack of minerals essential to your fish’s health. Avoid a catastrophe by remineralizing your distilled water if you decide to use it. If you have any questions, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Thanks for reading!

    References

  • 15 Best Brackish Water Fish: The Complete Guide (And Common Mislabeling Explained)

    15 Best Brackish Water Fish: The Complete Guide (And Common Mislabeling Explained)

    Table of Contents

    Brackish water is one of the most underappreciated setups in the hobby, and I’ve always thought it deserves more attention. The species you can keep in brackish. figure-eight puffers, archerfish, mudskippers. you simply can’t replicate in freshwater or saltwater. I’ve kept brackish tanks and the challenge of nailing that salinity range is part of what makes it interesting. This guide covers the 15 species I’d actually recommend for a brackish setup.

    Brackish water is one of the most underserved niches in the freshwater hobby. and also one of the most commonly misrepresented at the fish store level. A lot of popular species get sold as “freshwater” when they’re actually brackish: green spotted puffers, archer fish, bumblebee gobies, figure-eight puffers, and more. These fish often survive short-term in freshwater but slowly decline over months without the salt content they need. A true brackish setup uses marine salt at a lower concentration than a reef tank (specific gravity around 1.005 to 1.015) and produces fish with noticeably better health and color. This guide covers 15 species that genuinely thrive in brackish, along with what setting up a proper brackish tank actually involves.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)

    The most common mistake I see with 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained)s are adaptable.

    What Are They?

    Brackish fish are native to environments where fresh and saltwater mix. These environments are common in coastal areas all over the world, particularly where rivers and streams meet the ocean.

    This type of habitat is known as an estuary, although brackish coastal lakes also exist. The salinity of brackish water varies with the tides and other factors like river water levels. As a result, these brackish water fish species must either move with the water or be adaptable to these changeable conditions.

    Brackish fish are technically known as euryhaline species1, which means they can adapt to different salinities. They can often live in fully fresh or marine water for certain periods of time, but they are most comfortable in that in-between range for the long term.

    Why Keep this type?

    There are many reasons to keep a brackish aquarium. The most obvious is probably because there are some truly amazing-looking brackish fish species! In fact, many of the fish sold as freshwater fish are actually brackish. If you want to give these fish the best care, you’re going to need to go brackish.

    Apart from the fish themselves, the brackish environment is a fascinating underwater world. A Brackish water environment is an exciting new challenge for anyone who has started out with a tropical freshwater tank.

    15 Best Brackish Water Fish

    Now that you know what a brackish aquarium fish is, it’s time to get to know some of the best types! All of these species are suitable for the home aquarium, but their care and space requirements differ very much. I have a video above from our official YouTube Channel for a visual. Our blog will go in more detail below. That’s why I’ve put together the following list of vital stats for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • Water salinity/specific gravity
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed

    Let’s get started!

    1. Mollies

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna, Poecilia sphenops
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen food, spirulina/vegetable matter
    • Origin: USA, Mexico, Northern South America
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.015
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    Molly fish are highly adaptable fish that can be kept in anything from hard freshwater all the way to full marine conditions. In fact, these inexpensive livebearers thrive in brackish conditions!

    There are a few different species and many different breeds available in the fish-keeping hobby. Check out my complete guide for more details on these awesome beginner brackish aquarium fish!

    2. Guppy Fish

    Guppy Fish
    Guppy Fish

    An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
    • Origin: Northern South America & Caribbean Islands
    • Temperature: 63-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.010
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    Guppies are the smaller, more colorful cousins to the molly fish. These popular livebearers are one of the most common species in the aquarium trade. They are available in an amazing variety of shapes and colors, and they’re really easy to breed in the home aquarium.

    Guppy fish is usually thought of as freshwater fish species, but they can be kept in brackish water too. In fact, studies have shown that these amazing fish can even tolerate full marine conditions.

    3. Endler’s Livebearers

    Endler's Livebearers
    Endler's Livebearers

    A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller in size than guppies

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
    • Origin: Venezuela, South America
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.025
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    The Endler’s livebearer is another great nano brackish fish. These hardy fish thrive in brackish environments, even though they are usually kept in freshwater.

    The males of these tiny fish are much smaller and more colorful than the females, so if you don’t want them to breed, males are the better choice. Endler’s livebearers should not be kept with large fish or aggressive tank mates.

    4. Archer

    Archer Fish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Toxotes jaculatrix
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried & live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Widespread in Southern Asia and Northern Australia
    • Temperature: 77-86ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.010
    • pH: 7-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    Archerfish are brackish fish species with a fascinating hunting technique. In their natural habitat, these intelligent fish spit water at insects on leaves and tree branches above the water. This knocks the prey onto the water surface where the fish can get to it. Pretty neat!

    They will also take regular flake food and do great in larger brackish water aquariums. These fish are generally very peaceful with other fish but can be a little nippy with other archerfish unless kept in groups of 4 or more.

    5. Scat

    Scat Fish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Scatophagus argus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Dried foods, live/frozen foods, vegetable matter
    • Origin: The Middle East to Australia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.025
    • pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    Scats are large and beautiful brackish water aquarium fish. These spotted fish look amazing in schools in large aquariums. These curious fish make wonderful pets and are easy to feed and care for.

    The secret is to keep them in groups of at least 4 fish, maintain excellent water quality in a large enough tank, and always make sure their water is in the preferred salinity range.

    6. Mono

    Mono Fish In Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Monodactylus argenteus, M. sebae
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Dried foods, live/frozen foods, vegetable matter
    • Origin: Widespread along African and Asian coasts
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.025
    • pH: 7.2-8.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    These beautiful silvery fish are very fast and active so they require a large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. They make great tank mates for other brackish fish like scats, although they do equally well in full marine tanks. Mono fish can be skittish and are known to be fin nippers too, so they are best left to expert aquarists.

    7. Green Spotted Puffer

    Green Spotted Pufferfish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Tetraodon nigroviridis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Live/ frozen foods, and hard-shelled food sources like snails are essential
    • Origin: India to Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005
    • pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    The green spotted puffer is an amazing brackish water aquarium fish for more experienced fish keepers. These active puffers can be kept with other fish in a community setup, but they should be the only pufferfish in the tank to avoid aggression.

    Pufferfish have beak-like teeth that grow continuously. It is very important to feed these fish hard food like snails and shellfish to keep their teeth worn down.

    8. Figure 8 puffer

    • Scientific Name: Tetraodon biocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Live/ frozen foods, hard-shelled food sources like snails are essential
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    The figure 8 puffer fish is an awesome species that can be kept in both fresh and brackish water conditions. They get their name from the interesting markings on their backs. These little fish are generally peaceful but they are known to nip the fins of slow-moving tankmates

    9. Bumblebee Goby

    Bumblee Goby in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Brachygobius doriae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live food
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.001-1.006
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    These nano fish are best for a small species only tank. They get their name from their bold black and yellow colors. This fish can be a bit of a picky eater and they generally prefer live food.

    The bumblebee goby can be a little aggressive with other members of its own species so it is best to keep at least 6 together to prevent anyone from getting singled out. A brackish aquarium with plenty of hiding places is ideal for the bumblebee goby.

    10. Dragon goby

    • Scientific Name: Gobioides broussonnetii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 15-25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Feed algae wafers, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Widespread along the North, Central & South American coasts
    • Temperature: 73-79ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.005-1.015
    • pH: 7.5-9
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    The dragon goby is a strange, eel-like fish. Dragon gobies are actually a whole lot more peaceful than they look or sound though.

    They are not known to bother or eat smaller fish, although they can be semi-aggressive to other members of their own species. The Dragon goby can grow really long, so they should be kept in large tanks for good long-term care.

    11. Orange Chromide

    • Scientific Name: Etroplus maculatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed, dried and live/frozen foods, spirulina/vegetable matter
    • Origin: India & Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.002-1.010
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    Orange chromides (video source) can be kept in both fresh and brackish waters. This beautiful fish requires great quality water so regular aquarium maintenance is very important.

    They are peaceful but will eat very small fish if they can catch them. Provide your orange chromides with a varied diet that includes both meaty foods and plant matter.

    12. Kribensis

    Kribensis Cichlid Male and Female
    • Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3-4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Cichlid pellets, frozen/live foods
    • Origin: Cameroon and Nigeria
    • Temperature: 75-81ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.000-1.005
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    Kribensis cichlids are usually kept in freshwater tanks but they can survive in slightly brackish water too. These fish have beautiful colors and bold horizontal stripes that can really brighten up your tank.

    These beautiful West African cichlids are very peaceful except when breeding. It is best to keep a single pair with other fish in a community tank.

    13. Golden Wonder Killifish

    • Scientific Name: Aplocheilus lineatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, frozen/live foods
    • Origin: India & Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.000-1.005
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The golden wonder killifish (video source), or striped panchax, is another great species that can be kept in either fresh or slightly brackish water. These predatory fish will eat smaller fish, so they should only be kept with similarly sized fish. These hardy and adaptable killifish spend most of their time at the top of the tank.

    14. Banded Banjo Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Platystacus cotylephorus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Sinking dried foods, live/frozen food
    • Origin: Widespread in Central & South America
    • Temperature: 72-77 ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.003-1.010
    • pH: 6-8.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    The banded banjo catfish (video source) is nocturnal fish with a very unusual body shape. These fish aren’t the most active or exciting to watch, but they still make a great oddball specimen for a brackish tank. They make great community fish but should not be kept with very small fish that could be swallowed whole.

    15. Colombian shark catfish

    Columbian Shark Catfish Profile
    • Scientific Name: Ariopsis seemanni
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 12-14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 225 gallons
    • Diet: Meaty foods, can be picky eaters
    • Origin: Coastal regions of eastern Central and South America
    • Temperature: 72-78 ยฐF
    • Water salinity/specific gravity: 1.015-1.025
    • pH: 6.8-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    The Colombian shark catfish is not an aggressive fish but it will swallow any smaller fish that it can catch. These are large fish so they should not be purchased unless you have plenty of room.

    One important thing to note is that their fins have venomous spines that can cause serious pain and swelling. This means you should be very careful about handling these fish.

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great brackish aquarium is not that different from setting up a regular tropical fish tank. Let’s take a look at how to set up a brackish water aquarium.

    Substrate & Decorations

    You have a few choices when it comes to the substrate for brackish tanks.

    Aragonite is an excellent option because it releases calcium carbonate into the water which helps to maintain stable and healthy high pH levels. This substrate looks great and is easy to clean. Aragonite is available in various colors and textures from fine sand to larger particles.

    Crushed coral is another great option for a brackish tank but is a little more difficult to maintain because of the larger grain size. You can still get the benefits of this material by putting some into your filter media compartment.

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    When it comes to decorations, you can use any aquarium safe ornaments that are suitable for saltwater. Rocks are a great choice but small amounts of driftwood can be used too. Avoid large amounts of driftwood, however, since they can leach tannins and lower the water pH to some degree.

    Planted Tanks

    It will be surprising for some aquarists to hear that you can in fact grow live plants in a brackish water aquarium. The water’s specific gravity or salinity levels certainly do play a role in what kind of plants can be grown, however.

    On the higher salinity end, few common aquarium plants will be able to survive. There are options, however, including the various mangrove species, seagrasses, and algae.

    Fortunately, many well-known aquarium plants are adaptable to low salinity levels. The following species can be grown in slightly brackish water:

    Lighting & Filtration

    Unless you are growing live plants, bright lighting is not required for a brackish tank. The timing of your lighting is important, however. Maintain a regular day/night schedule for your fish by setting your lighting on a timer. 6 to 8 hours per day is recommended.

    You can use a regular hang-on back or internal power filter in your brackish water aquarium, but canister filters are preferred because they hold so much more filtration media.

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    How To Take Care

    Apart from their specific salinity needs, brackish fish have much the same needs as any other species. Read on to learn more about caring for fish in brackish aquariums.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Performing regular aquarium maintenance is just as important for a healthy brackish aquarium as it is for any other type of fish tank.

    Weekly or twice monthly partial water changes and gravel vacuuming will help keep nitrate levels within a safe range for your fish.

    Salinity Levels

    The main difference between a freshwater tank and a brackish fish tank is the salinity level. Pure freshwater is 1.000 while marine water has a salinity of 1.025. Brackish water aquariums are typically maintained between about 1.005 and 1.012. You can measure salinity with a refractometer and adjust it with calibration solution.

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    Preparing

    Brackish water is prepared by mixing marine salt with fresh water or mixing marine water with fresh water. Not just any salt will do of course! You’ll need to use good quality marine salt for this. Regular aquarium salt does not contain all the mineral elements that occur in natural brackish water.

    It is best to use RO water because you will be starting from a ‘level playing field’. If you are using tap water, make sure to mix in a water conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals.

    Always mix up the water before adding it to your aquarium. Mix up your water in a separate bucket so you can siphon out the old water into one bucket, and add the new water right after.

    Testing

    Apart from a regular water test kit that all fishkeepers should have, there’s one extra piece of equipment you will need. Since you will be mixing salt into your water, you’ll need a device to help you measure and monitor the salinity in your tank.

    You can opt for an inexpensive hydrometer if you’re happy with ‘ballpark’ readings. This is usually perfectly fine for brackish tanks because the animals tend to be quite adaptable.

    For more accurate readings, spend a little more and pick up a decent refractometer. Whichever instrument you choose, make sure to test your salinity (and other parameters) after each water change.

    Where To Buy

    Brackish water species are not as easily available as freshwater species, but you can still find them at your local fish store from time to time. Common species like sailfin mollies and guppies can be found just about anywhere, but I would recommend trusted online retailers for the more exotic species.

    FAQS

    Can freshwater fish live in this?

    True freshwater fish should not be kept in brackish water. Many freshwater species will survive for varying amounts of time in brackish water, but it will certainly put them under stress and reduce their lifespan.

    What fish can live in both salt and freshwater?

    There are a few aquarium fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater. These types of fish are called euryhaline species.

    Most of these species are at home somewhere in between these two environments, however. Mollies are fish that can live in both fresh and saltwater.

    What freshwater fish can survive in this type?

    Mollies, guppies, and Endler’s livebearers are all fish that people tend to think of as freshwater species. In fact, all of these species are perfectly at home in brackish water.

    Can Guppies live in brackish water?

    Guppies are very comfortable in brackish water. In fact, scientific studies have shown that these fish can even live in saltwater.

    Do shrimp like this?

    Some popular aquarium shrimp species like cherry and Amano shrimps can survive in very low-level brackish water. Ghost shrimp often thrive in brackish aquariums, however.

    Is the 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained) Right for You?

    Before you add a 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the 15 Best Brackish Water Fish (And Common Mislabeling Explained) Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 15 best brackish water fish (and common mislabeling explained) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Setting up a brackish tank can be a great next step for aquarists looking to expand their collection. The range of different fish that this side of the hobby opens up is really exciting. This is a fascinating side of the hobby that all fish keepers should try out!

    Do you keep brackish fish? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

  • 5 Main Types of Livebearers: A Beginner’s Guide to Guppies, Platies, Mollies and More

    5 Main Types of Livebearers: A Beginner’s Guide to Guppies, Platies, Mollies and More

    Livebearers breed constantly, eat their young, and will overpopulate any tank without predation or sex separation. The appeal is obvious. The population explosion that follows is the part nobody warns you about.

    If you keep males and females together, you are breeding livebearers. There is no opt-out.

    If you keep males and females together, you are breeding livebearers. There is no opt-out.

    Livebearers. Guppies, platies, mollies, swordtails. Are the backbone of the beginner freshwater hobby, and for good reason. They’re hardy, colorful, and active. They also breed constantly, which is either a feature or a problem depending on how you set up your tank. I always tell people: if you keep males and females together, plan for fry. It’s not optional. Either keep one sex, get a tank large enough that fry can hide and survive, or be ready to manage the population. Beyond that, livebearers are about as forgiving a fish group as you’ll find. Here are the 5 main types worth knowing.

    What Are Livebearers?

    Livebearers are often overlooked in the aquarium hobby (see video above from our YouTube Channel). Their cheap fish that are easy to keep and more experienced hobbyists see them as not being worth their time; these hobbyists have advanced onto harder and more challenging species, so there’s no reason to keep something so easy.

    In our opinion, livebearers are some of the prettiest and most active fish available in the hobby and belong in every community tank setup! However, there is just one problem. There is a reason they’re known as livebearers.

    There are over 300 different species of fish that are categorized as livebearers. In the aquarium hobby, the most known livebearers belong to the Poeciliidae family, including guppies, platies, mollies, and swordtails. These fish have their eggs internally fertilized and then give birth to live, free-swimming fry. This is in contrast to most other fish that lay eggs which then get fertilized.

    What Is The Best Fish?

    That being said, which livebearer is the best out of all of them? Well, that depends.

    As we’ll see, these are some of the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium industry and one isn’t necessarily better than the next. However, each one brings a unique experience to the tank that another can’t.

    For example, mollies is adapted to live in brackish or saltwater conditions instead of freshwater, bringing a new challenge to an otherwise easy species. Many hobbyists also find it interesting to add these mundane fish to more elaborate setups with uncommon tank mates, like piranhas with common guppies.

    The best livebearer fish for your aquarium setup will be the ones that match water parameters and compatibility levels.

    Male Vs Female Differences

    When choosing livebearers for your freshwater aquarium, it’s important to know the difference between males and females. This is for a few reasons.

    1. Harassment. Livebearers do not need much time between broods. Within a few weeks after birth, they’re able to safely reproduce again. This can lead to some problems with males being overly excited with females. If the ratio between male and female livebearers is low, then the females is stressed out due to males chasing them to mate.
    2. Overpopulation. The biggest problem with having more than one livebearer in the aquarium is that they’ll quickly reproduce. In order to prevent this, some hobbyists stick to keeping only one sex in the aquarium.

    In order to prevent harassment and overpopulation, it’s important to know the difference between male and female livebearers. In general, male livebearers are smaller and more colorful but the difference isn’t so clear with every species.

    Here are the differences between the 5 main types of livebearers. Video below is also for visual reference from Albert’s Guppy Adventure:

    • Guppy fish. Female guppies are plain in color, with a yellowish-brown body. The tail fin may have some coloration or patterning and the dorsal fin is short. Male guppies have colorful bodies and fins but are smaller than females. The dorsal fin is elongated.
    • Endler’s livebearers. Female Endler’s are also plain in color, with a silver or tan body. The fins are transparent. Male Endler’s livebearers have coloring and patterning across their body and are smaller than the females.
    • Platies. Platies are the most difficult fish to correctly sex on this list. Female platies have a fan shaped anal fin while male platies have a pointed anal fin. Females are also larger on average.
    • Mollies. Mollies are identified in the same way as platies; females also have a modified anal fin while males have a pointed anal fin.
    • Swordtails. These fish are one of the easiest to tell apart! Male swordtails have a special elongated bottom tail fin ray and a streamline body. Females lack this feature and are much rounder in appearance.

    When shopping for livebearers, try to keep one male for every three females. Ask the associate to pick out male and female fish or ask them to catch specific fish to keep this ratio balanced.

    5 Main Types

    Out of the many various species of livebearer, five seem to be the most popular. These include:

    1. Guppy Fish
    2. Endler’s Livebearers
    3. Platies
    4. Mollies
    5. Swordtails

    1. Guppy

    Guppy Fish
    Guppy Fish

    An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: South America and parts of the Caribbean
    • Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Guppy fish is found everywhere and in every color. Though they originate from South America and the Caribbean, it is nearly impossible to find wild-caught individuals.

    In general, there are two types of guppy: fancy guppies and feeder guppies. However, these freshwater fish aren’t different at all and are actually the same species. The only difference is that some fish are prettier and deemed as more desirable as others that might not be as big or colorful; the undesirable species get left to be fed to other fish.

    Fancy guppies are the first fish anyone ever has. They’re colorful, small, inexpensive, and can survive most beginner mistakes. They need a minimal freshwater setup and can even survive ambient room temperatures. As a livebearer, they will quickly reproduce and overpopulate an aquarium if left unmonitored.

    They should not be confused with mosquito fish, Gambusia affinis. Their lifespan is anywhere from 2-5 years.

    2. Endler’s

    Endler's Livebearers
    Endler's Livebearers

    A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller in size than guppies

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Endler’s livebearers are very closely related to guppies and share many of the same behaviors and care requirements, though slightly smaller and streamline in appearance. In some ways, Endler’s are more desirable than guppies and have been selectively bred to bring out the best colors and patterns.

    Endler’s are nearly extinct in the wild due to run-off and habitat destruction. They have been found living together with common guppies, though they are likely to hybridize and create fertile offspring in the aquarium setting. This is a desirable mix for some fish keepers but can also ruin a rare wild lineage of Endler’s.

    3. Platies

    Platies in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Central America
    • Temperature: 64-77ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0-8.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Platies are a larger type of livebearer that can bring immense amounts of color and activity to the aquarium. Some varieties of platy include wagtail, salt and pepper, tuxedo, and rainbow; there is even a dwarf platy variation that is bright red for smaller nano tanks.

    These fish prefer to stay towards to the top of the tank, but will venture to lower portions unlike guppies or Endler’s. It is recommended to have a larger tank for these fish as they can produce significant amounts of waste in a short period of time and like to be active.

    4. Mollies

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: South America and Central America
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    There are a few different species of molly available: common mollies (Poecilia sphenops), balloon mollies (Poecilia latipinna), and sailfin mollies (Poecilia latipinna). Balloon mollies have an inflated stomach and noticeably shorter body while sailfin mollies have very extended dorsal fin rays. They come in a variety of colors, including white, yellow, black, red, and dalmatian patterning.

    In the wild, mollies live in brackish water conditions where rivers meet the ocean. Because so many of these fish have been bred within the aquarium hobby, most of the ones sold in stores have lived in freshwater conditions their entire lives.

    However, with some patience, these fish is acclimated to saltier conditions. In fact, some fish keepers use mollies as a way to treat pest algae in their saltwater setups. This makes them a very interesting addition to the traditional reef stocking list!

    5. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus helleri
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Central America
    • Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0-8.3
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Swordtails are probably the least popular species on this list, but that’s only because of their size. These are big fish that need to be kept in schools and many hobbyists aren’t willing to allot that real estate to a beginner fish. Still, these fish come in a bunch of vibrant colors and can bring a ton of activity to the middle and lower portions of the tank.

    There are a few variations of swordtail, including lyretail and hi fin, though they are limited to red coloration.

    Tank Setup

    Livebearing fish do not need much to make them happy. The biggest problem hobbyists run into is overpopulation as the minimum recommended tank size is only 10 gallons. These nano fish tanks are good for a starting group of these fish, but will quickly become too small once the fish start to reproduce.

    A 10 gallon tank is recommended for hobbyists who are able to control the populations of their fish. Otherwise, a bigger setup will be needed in the longrun.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Livebearers is kept on either a sand or gravel substrate. These fish do not go towards the bottom of the aquarium, saving their fins and bodies from any potential injuries.

    Elaborate decorations are also not needed as they will stay out in the open as long as conditions are met. On the contrary, some fish may hide when there are too few decorations available. If you find that your fish are hiding, check aquarium water parameters and add additional hiding spots.

    Live plants are the best decorations you can add to your aquarium fish tank. Not only do they provide shade and coverage for your fish, but livebearing fish will also love to pick at any algae that’s growing on the leaves and stems. Not to mention the additional nutrient export and oxygenation that live plants provide!

    Lighting & Filtration

    Livebearers do not require any special lighting. However, since some of these fish like to stay towards the surface of the water, it’s important to keep in mind that some lighting is too strong. To help make your top swimmers more comfortable, try adding floating plants.

    In general, it’s recommended to provide fish with a filter that is rated for 2x the water volume of the tank. For livebearers, it’s better to have too much filtration as these fish quickly produce waste. Some of these tiny fish, like Endler’s, is pushed around by an overly strong water current, though. A power filter serve them well in fish only tanks while canister filters are good to invest in for heavily planted aquariums.

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    Heating

    Livebearers are extremely hardy and will survive swings in water temperature. They can withstand cooler temperatures more than regular tropical fish and bounce back from fluctuations in water conditions. However, no fish can acclimate if temperatures change too rapidly.

    Even though most livebearer fish prefer ambient room temperature, they will stress out if temperature fluctuate too often. We always recommended using an aquarium heater, even for coldwater species, to help keep warm temperatures stable rather than to raise temperature.

    How To Care

    Once the aquarium is mature, there is little to no additional care needed for livebearers. As mentioned before, the biggest upkeep will be keeping populations under control. This is done by stocking either only female or male livebearers or by giving away or rehoming fry as needed.

    Otherwise, aquarium maintenance is easy and straightforward.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Like any fish tank, livebearers need regular water changes to help keep parameters in check. This means about a 20-25% water change every week or every other week. The substrate should also be siphoned during this time to remove uneaten food and other waste.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Livebearers are not picky and will eat anything that they can fit into their mouths. For some fish, like Endler’s, this might mean breaking up fish flakes and pellets for easier eating.

    These fish are naturally omnivores and will accept both meat- and plant-based foods; this includes mosquito larvae and bloodworms as well as algae wafers and blanched vegetables.

    For protein, livebearers is given a high-quality fish flake or pellet. Floating foods may be easier for some livebearers to eat as they don’t like to go all the way down to the bottom of the tank.

    Tank Mates

    Most species of community fish is kept with most livebearers. They are the ideal tank mate in regards to temperament, space requirements, and color, and is used to accent other larger fish.

    Some of these compatible species include:

    It should also be noted that most livebearing fish is kept with large invertebrates, like shrimp and crayfish. While this pairing isn’t always guaranteed to work, both the fish and the invertebrate tend to stay out of reach from one another.

    In regards to Betta Fish, most livebearers are compatible with female bettas. Male bettas are with caution, with them being more successful with Endler’s livebearers due to their speed.

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    <a href=Red Devil Cichlid Amphilophus labiatus” class=”wp-image-545169″/>

    Livebearers are small fish. They can easily be eaten or harassed by other larger fish. Some hobbyists use this to their advantage to feed other fish and either buy or cultivate feeder guppies.

    In general, you want to avoid keeping livebearers with fish that could easily swallow them. Some of these tank mates include:

    Breeding

    Each livebearer will be different, but the breeding process is pretty much the same for all of these aquarium fish.

    First, make sure you have a group of males and females. This should be relatively easy as there is a big difference in appearance between male and female livebearers. When both fish are ready to spawn, they will intensify in color. Females will become noticeably rounder while males will become more persistent and aggressive.

    The tank should be well-planted to ensure that newborn fry can hide and survive or else they will be eaten by their parents and other livebearers. A pregnant female will develop a dark spot near her anal fin called a gravid spot. She will be pregnant for about 4-6 weeks until she’s ready to birth up to 100 young.

    These live young is removed from the aquarium to ensure survival and to prevent inbreeding. They is fed small foods, such as baby brine shrimp until they’re ready to accept bigger foods and rejoin the rest of the fish.

    By picking and choosing which males and females you want to mate with, you can control selective breeding to get new colors and patterns.

    Final Thoughts

    Having easy fish doesn’t necessarily mean that you don’t know what you’re doing with your aquarium! Livebearing species are a great choice for any hobbyist at any skill level. They’re colorful, inexpensive, and incredibly active fish that can fill up an empty tank or accent other featured fish.

    As long as population growth is kept in control, livebearers will enjoy grouping with themselves and foraging on algae in community tanks.

  • 9 Types of Danio Fish: A Guide to the Whole Group (Beyond the Zebra Danio)

    9 Types of Danio Fish: A Guide to the Whole Group (Beyond the Zebra Danio)

    Danios are one of those fish groups I’ve always had a soft spot for. they’re fast, hardy, and the group contains a lot more variety than most hobbyists realize. Most people know zebra danios, but there are 9 species worth keeping and each has its own personality and requirements. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are my honest notes on the whole group.

    Danios are one of those fish groups that punch above their weight. The common zebra danio is practically bulletproof. it tolerates a wide temperature range, adapts to most water conditions, and its active schooling behavior makes it a useful dither fish for shy or nervous tankmates. But the group goes well beyond zebras: pearl danios, giant danios, leopard danios, and the stunning celestial pearl danio all have their own appeal. After 25 years in the hobby, I still think danios are underrated by intermediate hobbyists who’ve moved past the beginner stage. Here are 9 types worth knowing.

    What Are Danio Fish?

    Danio fish are some of the most important fish in the aquarium hobby as well as in the scientific world. The most popular species of danio to come across is the common danio (Danio rerio), also known as zebrafish. However, the genus of Danio contains almost 30 different species with 9 of them making their way into the homes of freshwater enthusiasts!

    Danio fish are considered to be some of the easiest fish to keep in the home aquarium. Their hardiness and quick reproduction rates have also made them the perfect candidate for use as a model organism for gene sequencing. Specifically, Danio rerio has been used to study drug development, regenerative properties, and other bioengineering practices.

    Some of these studies have been taken advantage of by the aquarium industry, creating fluorescent varieties of danio called GloFish. These fish have been genetically prioritized to express neon colors of red, green, yellow, and more. Once these genes are expressed, they will continue to be passed onto later generations of danio, meaning that there is no cruel practice involved. Sadly though, there are many breeders that dye their fish for brighter and more appealing colorations.

    Top 9 Types of Danios Best Suited For Aquariums

    In the freshwater aquarium hobby, danios are seen as beginner fish. They don’t require a lot of room to thrive and can bring a ton of activity to the top portions of the tank. Though common zebra danios are the most popular fish species available, there are actually 8 other varieties that can bring new life to a tropical setup.

    We have a video just for you from our Aquarium Store Depot YouTube Channel. We go into more detail in our blow post below. If you enjoy our content, please subscribe as we post new videos each week! Let’s start with the first on the list!

    1. Celestial Pearl Danio

    Celestial Pearl Danio
    Celestial Pearl Danio

    A great-looking danio fish. Males are more colorful than females. A midway dwelling fish

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    • Scientific Name: Danio margaritatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Fish Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Burma
    • Temperature: 65-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Sometimes wrongly referred to as galaxy rasboras, celestial pearl danios belong to the Danio genus along with the other fish species on this list. These fish are a recent addition to the aquarium hobby, almost causing them to become endangered shortly after their discovery in 2006. Their spotted trout-like appearance has made them a favorite, yet expensive, staple to the planted aquarium.

    Celestial pearl danios come from very specific ecosystems at high altitudes in Hopong, Burma. They can be found in large groups, which needs to be replicated in the aquarium setting by keeping at least 6 members at all times; ideally, these fish should be kept in large groups starting with 20 individuals.

    Celestial pearl danios can be slightly more challenging to keep as they are not very hardy fish and succumb to imperfect or irregular water conditions. They also do better in cooler water temperatures, making them incompatible with other species.

    2. Zebra Danios

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Danio rerio
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Fish Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Myanmar
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Zebra danios are arguably the most popular and available fish on this list. These are incredibly active fish that earn their name from the horizontal black and yellowish-silver stripes that run from their heads to their tails.

    In the wild, the Zebra danio fish are found in a wide range of ecosystems from stagnant waters to fast-moving mountain streams. Most of these environments have cooler water temperatures than typical tropical fish, which will need to be replicated in the aquarium.

    The zebra danio is a schooling fish and will need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Due to their activity and tendency to stay towards the top of the tank, schools can quickly become overwhelming for other fish as well as for other danios. Because of this, it’s recommended to keep smaller schools with other species that stay toward the bottom of the aquarium.

    3. Gold Longfin Danio

    • Scientific Name: Danio rerio
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    The gold longfin danio (video source) is a more colorful variation of the common Danio rerio. These types of danios naturally occur in the Ganges region in Eastern India, though the aquarium hobby has enhanced their coloration and finnage.

    The gold longfin danio is named after its bright yellow body with white stripes. Compared to other species, they also have noticeably longer fins. In terms of care requirements, they have the same needs as regular Danio rerio fish.

    4. Gold Ring Burmese Danio

    Gold Ring Danio
    Gold Ring Danio

    A golden-colored Danio Fish that only grows to 1.5 inches. A highly adaptable fish

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    • Scientific Name: Danio tinwini
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Though similar in name to the gold longfin danio, the gold ring Burmese danio (video source) is a species all of its own. Instead, these unique fish are named after the leopard-like black spots that cover their pale yellow body. They are especially identifiable by their opaque white abdomen.

    https://youtu.be/gT0X7RLFCpc

    Gold ring danios have the same behaviors and care requirements as zebra danios, but are slightly smaller. Though an inch difference might not seem like a lot, these fish are that much more susceptible to bullying and strong water currents. Still, the best tank mates for gold ring danios will be other types of danio and slow-moving fish species.

    5. Glowlight Danio

    <a href=Glowlight Danio Near Gravel” class=”wp-image-557066″/>
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys choprae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Not to be confused with GloFish danios, glowlight danios are very unique fish. They’re not even true danios and belong to the Celestichthys genus instead!

    These fish are extremely colorful with a yellow-based body with vertical blue stripes and a pink stripe leading to their tail. They are also much smaller than the other types of danios on this list, but one of the more expensive varieties.

    Glowlight danios are very tight schoolers and will thrive in large groups. They are more likely to venture to lower portions of the other tank than other species, so it’s important to keep their activity levels in mind when stocking.

    6. Pearl Danio

    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio albolineatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Myanmar, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 73-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    The pearl danio, also known as the blue danio or turquoise danio, is a plain iridescent fish. While they may not be the most colorful species on this list, their simplicity catches the eye in a well-planted aquarium.

    Pearl danios have the same care requirements and behaviors as other danios and will do best when kept in small groups. It is important to note that pearl danios need a slightly higher water temperatures than other types of danios that can tolerate cold climates.

    7. Leopard Danio

    Leopard Danio in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Danio frankei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    The leopard danio is very close in appearance to the gold ring Burmese danio, though they’re not related. Leopard danios have slightly more streamlined bodies and much smaller bluish-black spots on a light yellow body. Some of these spots transfer onto the fins.

    Unlike other danios, the leopard danio fish occurs in slow-moving or stagnant waters. However, they appreciate some water flow in the aquarium setting. Like the others, they appreciate being in small groups in vegetative setups.

    8. Giant Danio

    <a href=Giant Danio Fish in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557080″/>
    • Scientific Name: Danio aequipinnatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: India, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.0-7.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    Though called giants, giant danios are only about an inch bigger than other species of this fish. However, this potential size is enough to make their minimum tank size a little bigger than the others to allow for growing room and space to swim. They also prefer slightly warmer water temperatures and a lower pH.

    These aquarium fish are plain in color, but beautiful upon a closer look. They have pale bodies with highlights of light blue. Paired with their activity level, they can create contrast against a planted background in a large group.

    9. GloFish Danio

    • Scientific Name: Danio rerio
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Captive-bred
    • Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Not permissible
    • Planted tank suitability: Common

    GloFish are highly fluorescent types of danio. This trait has been inherited through the generations and patented by the GloFish company, making it illegal to breed them. However, they are widely available in most aquarium stores and can make a fun and unique addition to a blacklight freshwater setup.

    It is important to purchase only GloFish (certified danio fish as others could be cruelly dyed with artificial colors. GloFish danio colors include Starfire Redยฎ, Electric Greenยฎ, Sunburst Orangeยฎ, Cosmic Blueยฎ, and Galactic Purpleยฎ.

    Danio Tank Setup

    The best thing about danios is that they will thrive in most tank setups, anything from a simple 10 gallon tank with colorful decorations to a 100 gallon system with the rarest freshwater plants. As long as water parameters stay stable and in their preferred range, these fish will thrive.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Danio fish can be kept on gravel or sand. They do not regularly venture towards the bottom of the tank, which nearly eliminates the threat of long fins getting tugged or bodies getting scratched. If you find that your fish is laying towards the bottom of the aquarium, check water parameters immediately as this could be a sign that something is wrong.

    Otherwise, danios do not need an elaborate setup. They will do well in a barebones aquarium with simple decorations. If you really want to treat your fish though, provide easy floating plants that they can pick at for food and hide in at the surface of the water.

    A fully planted setup will make these simple and peaceful fish shine even more.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Lighting will largely depend on the types of plants being kept in the aquarium. Danios do not need any specific lighting, though GloFish will glow best under a blacklight; don’t be tricked into buying a special aquarium blacklight as any one will work.

    An important thing to remember is that these fish stay towards the top of the aquarium. If using a high-intensity light for red and foreground plants, make sure to provide your fish with some coverage that they can escape to if the light becomes too much.

    Though danios aren’t the messiest fish, they can start to create large amounts of waste when kept in big groups. It is always recommended to have a filter that is rated for at least twice the size of the aquarium, with bigger being better. In most cases, you can’t overdo good filtration for danios as they’ll appreciate the extra water flow. A simple power filter should do the trick for a danio tank.

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    Heating

    Danio fish are considered a coldwater species. They can tolerate significantly colder water temperatures than typical tropical fish. However, most of these fish have been bred in the aquarium industry and have acclimated to average water conditions.

    When buying your danio, it is best to ask what temperature they are being kept at and match those parameters.

    Do Danios Need A Heater?

    Being a coldwater fish, danios do not necessarily need a heater. If ambient room temperature constantly stays in the same range as the preferred one of your danio, then you don’t need a heater.

    However, a heater is always recommended for any tank setup. This is because temperatures can easily fluctuate throughout the day enough to cause stress on your fish. For that reason, danios should always have a heater to keep temperatures constant rather than to raise the temperature.

    How To Care For Danio Fish

    Danio care is simple and straightfoward. Once the tank is cycled and the fish are safely acclimated, there’s little to worry about going wrong. The biggest concern will be keeping these active aquarium fish fed and choosing the right tank mates.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Danio aquarium maintenance is no different from any other fish though the frequency will depend on the parameters of your system. This usually means a 20-25% water change every time nitrates creep over 50 ppm. For most hobbyists, this is every week or every other week depending on the bioload and size of the aquarium.

    Along with water changes, the substrate should be vaccuumed regularly to keep detritus from building up.

    Danio Behavior & Feeding

    No matter which species of danio you choose, your danio fish will be the most active in the whole aquarium. These fish love to swim towards the surface of the water, searching for food and following the rest of the school. Most species of danio are very tight schoolers and will form groups that change direction all at once.

    If you find that your danios are not schooling, try adding more plants or more danios. It is possible that your fish are trying to hide due to lack of coverage or safety in numbers. To help your fish be more active, make sure to feed regularly. More activity means a higher metabolism that needs to be kept up with.

    In the wild, danios are mainly insectovores; this is part of the reason they stay right under the surface of the water to catch any bugs that might land. In the aquarium setting, they have adapted to an omnivorous diet and will accept most frozen, freeze-dried, and live foods. They will especially enjoy bloodworms and mosquito larvae.

    The staple of their diet should be a high-quality fish flake food or pellet; flakes will stay on the surface while pellets will sink out of reach of your fish. To meet their vegetation needs, you may provide algae flakes and pellets or offer blanched vegetables from time to time. A good staple food to buy is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano.

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

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    Danio Tank mates

    Most danios are plain in color. While they can bring a lot of activity to the tank, they’re not usually the centerpiece of the system. Instead, their simple colors can be used to accent other aquarium fish.

    Some of the best danio tank mates will prefer cooler temperatures and stay away from the upper portions of the tank. Some ideal species would be:

    Danios can also safely be kept with most invertebrates and can even be paired with dwarf crayfish as they both stay at the extreme ends of the tank.

    How Many Danios Should Be Kept Together?

    No matter which species of danio you choose, you will need to keep them in a school. Danios are schooling fish and should never be kept by themselves.

    Ideally, at least 6 danios should be kept together at all times. From there, tank size will determine the maximum number possible.

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    There aren’t many tank mates you should avoid in a danio tank. The biggest concern will be having your fish eaten by something that has a bigger mouth.

    In general, this includes:

    Danio Breeding

    Danios are some of the easiest freshwater fish to breed and are a perfect challenge for beginners. As long as water parameters are stable, diet is high-quality, and a male and female are available, then these fish will spawn in your freshwater aquarium without any additional effort.

    Danios are egg scatterers and will not take care of their young. Once the eggs have been fertilized, they are likely to be eaten by other fish. To increase the odds of eggs surviving, remove the eggs or install an eggcrate that blocks the other fish from getting to them.

    The eggs will hatch after a day or two and the fry will be free-swimming. At this point, the fry can also be removed for greater chances of success. Feed small foods, like baby brine shrimp, regularly until they’re able to accept a larger variety.

    Final Thoughts

    Danio fish are shrugged off as an easy beginner fish that doesn’t add much to the aquarium. Most hobbyists forget that there are many different types of danio available that don’t need any extra care! It’s just a matter of picking out which one you like best.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Black Brush Algae (BBA): What Causes It and How to Actually Get Rid of It

    Black Brush Algae (BBA): What Causes It and How to Actually Get Rid of It

    Black brush algae. BBA. is the algae I hate dealing with most. Unlike green algae that you can wipe off glass, BBA latches onto plants, hardscape, and equipment and doesn’t let go. In 25 years of keeping tanks, I’ve learned that BBA almost always signals a CO2 or flow problem. Inconsistent CO2 injection is probably the number one cause in planted tanks. when CO2 fluctuates, BBA moves in fast. Low or dead-zone flow is another common culprit. The good news is that once you identify the root cause and address it, BBA growth stops and existing patches can be treated with Excel or a diluted bleach dip. This article walks through exactly how to do that.

    What Is It?

    Audouinella, also known as the black beard or black brush algae (BBA), are stubborn algae species from the red algae family. An infestation of this common fish tank villain looks just like a black or dark green scruffy beard, so it’s pretty obvious where its common name comes from. BBA is quite similar to Staghorn algae in appearance but grows in a denser, darker tuft.

    Black beard algae is a natural component of fresh and saltwater environments, so it is not harmful in itself. It doesn’t look great, however, and it can affect plants by blocking out their access to light.

    This form of red algae starts out as tiny dark tufts but grows quickly if it isn’t checked early. It attaches itself to plants, rocks, driftwood, aquarium decorations, and even gravel substrate. In other words, this stuff grows almost anywhere!

    What Causes BBA?

    BBA on Plant

    Black beard algae are usually introduced to your fish tank from other aquariums. This could be on contaminated plants, or pretty much any object from another tank.

    Black beard algae reproduce by spores. The algae spores are tiny, so it is easy to spread them in the water that new fish and livestock are delivered in.

    There are certain conditions that allow these algae to get out of control, however. Here’s a quick summary of the most common causes of serious black beard algae growth:

    • Fluctuating CO2 levels
    • Unhealthy Plants
    • Too much light
    • Excess fish waste and leftover food
    • Elevated nitrate and phosphate levels
    • Poor filtration and inadequate water circulation

    How To Control Black Algae In Fish Tanks

    Now that you know more about what black beard algae is, you’re probably itching to know how to get rid of it. Rest assured, that’s what this article is all about, so let’s take a deep dive into some of the best treatment methods!

    Biological Control (The Clean-Up Crew)

    This is my favorite method of black beard algae control, even if it isn’t the most effective. Why is it my favorite? Because I love algae eaters!

    Unfortunately, most animals do not eat black beard algae as their main food source. That means that biological control can be very helpful in the long run, but probably won’t bring fast results.

    BBA isn’t the ideal food source for most common aquarium animals, especially if they have access to better food sources like prepared fish food. There are a few species that do eat this type of algae, however, so let’s meet them now!

    • Siamese algae eater – Crossocheilus langei

    The Siamese algae eater (video source) is probably the most popular choice of fish for controlling black beard algae. Siamese algae eaters grow to about 6 inches in length, so they are a good choice for freshwater aquariums of at least 30 gallons or larger.

    • Panda garra – Garra flavatra

    Panda garra fish are a great little species that reach a size of about 3.5 inches. These bottom feeding fish are reported to feed on black algae from time to time. They prefer tanks with good water flow and at least 20 gallons of water volume.

    • Florida flagfish – Jordanella floridae

    The Florida flag fish is a colorful fish species that looks great in tanks of 15 gallons or more. These omnivorous fish feed on a wide range of food sources, including pesky brush algae!

    While they won’t completely get rid of black beard algae from your tank, they can do a great job of stopping this algae’s growth.

    • Hillstream loach – Sewellia lineolata

    The hillstream loach is another awesome algae eater that might help keep black brush algae growth under control. These fascinating algae-eating fish need well-oxygenated, flowing water in tanks that hold 20 gallons or more.

    • Molly fish – Poecilia sphenops/ latipinna

    It’s a bit of an open secret, but good old mollies can also be great for controlling black beard algae!

    It might not be their first choice, however, so don’t be surprised to see them completely ignore the stuff if you feed them a lot of prepared foods like flakes.

    Invertebrates:

    • Amano shrimp – Caridina japonica
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    Fish like the Siamese algae eater aren’t the only animals that can be useful to get rid of black beard algae growth.

    Amano shrimps are great little algae-eating inverts that can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons. Amano shrimp are especially great for planted tanks!

    • Ramshorn snails – Planorbarius duryi

    Ramshorn snails are probably the ultimate low-maintenance algae eaters. Unfortunately, these notorious invertebrates tend to find their way into aquariums on live plants and breed out of control. That being said, they are great for cleaning up scraps and generally improving the health of your aquarium.

    Care

    There’s one last thing to mention before we move on to the most effective methods to remove black beard algae.

    Different algae eaters have different care needs, so please make sure your freshwater tank and water parameters will create a healthy environment before bringing any of these species home.

    Physical Removal

    Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the best solutions. Unfortunately, this is easier said than done when trying to get rid of black beard algae!

    If the BBA in your tank is growing on a removable hardscape feature like a rock, or ornament like plastic plants or decorations, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush or wire brush can be helpful.

    Removing black beard algae is safer outside of the tank so that the fragments do not collect in the aquarium water. For any removal in the tank, it is always best to switch off your filter and powerheads to avoid distributing fragments.

    If your BBA is growing on aquatic plants, physical removal will be a little more brutal. This stuff is tough, so a quick wipe-down is not going to be much help. Badly affected leaves will need to be removed. Remember to remove these leaves and plant matter from your aquarium.

    Black beard algae reproduce by spores, so you’ll probably never remove them all. Physical removal is a great first step toward eradication, but you’ll probably want to proceed directly towards the next treatment methods to finish the job.

    Chemical Treatments

    Black beard algae often respond very well to chemical treatments. Of course, safety is very important when using chemicals, especially if you keep live plants and animals in your aquarium. Read on to learn two trusted methods!

    How To Get Rid of It With Hydrogen Peroxide

    Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen that can be very effective for getting rid of stubborn black beard algae in your aquarium. It is a liquid that is usually available from local drug stores and chemists at a very low cost.

    Let’s take a look at some of the ways to use this chemical to treat black beard algae.

    Hydrogen peroxide bath

    Preparing an H2O2 bath is a great option for plants, ornaments, and hardscape features that you can remove from your tank. You will know you have been successful when the black beard algae begin to turn grey or pinkish.

    Dosing hydrogen peroxide

    One good method to rid your aquarium of black beard algae is to simply add hydrogen peroxide to the water column. Start by turning off your filter, and your aquarium lighting.

    Next, you’ll want to measure out 3 teaspoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide for every ten gallons of water in your aquarium. Add this to the tank and allow it to soak for about an hour before switching the lights and filter back on.

    Spot Treatments

    You can also apply the hydrogen peroxide directly where you need it using a syringe or a pipette. You can do this under the water, just remember to switch off your filter and lighting.

    You can also use this method after draining the tank enough to expose the algae to air, or after removing the affected plant or object from the tank. A small paintbrush can be very useful for applying the hydrogen peroxide, but you can also use a syringe or an eyedropper.

    If you are using this method on aquatic plants outside of the water, make sure you rinse the hydrogen peroxide off after 5 minutes at most.

    How To Get Rid of It With Liquid Carbon

    Liquid carbon is another great chemical treatment for black beard algae. One of the most popular products on the market is Flourish Excel, but there are other products with the same active ingredients too.

    Seachem Excel

    Liquid carbon can be used with the same techniques as described for hydrogen peroxide. It is not sensitive to light like H2O2, but you’ll still want to turn off your filter.

    Many aquarists have had success by going above the recommended dose (overdosing), but this can be very risky for your livestock. If you do choose to go this route, keep a close eye on your pets and be ready to move them or perform a large water change to dilute the concentration.

    Spot treatments are generally a safer and more effective method because they allow you to maximize the effect of the liquid carbon where you need it most. If you have a lot of black beard algae in your aquarium, try spot dosing small areas every week, rather than blasting the whole tank at once.

    Using Natural Treatments

    Another new product to the market is Green Water Labs Algae Control. This product is all natural and safe to use in planted aquariums. It is designed to be used for those using fertilizers and experiencing algae issues such as black beard algae. This formula is also safe to use with snails and shrimp. It has a very straight forward dosing schedule. I would recommend it if you feel uncomfortable going to the CO2 supplement route.

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    Safety Tips

    After reading about these (relatively) safe chemical methods of remove black beard algae, it’s worth taking note of the following safety information:

    • Remember, black beard algae is mostly a cosmetic issue, so don’t go overboard on treatment at first, you can always try again in a few days!
    • Liquid carbon products are not designed for use as algaecides. They can be effective, but using them this way is very much at your own risk.
    • Some live plants do not respond well to liquid carbon. Anacharis, Vallisneria, and Japanese moss balls are all sensitive plants that can be negatively affected under high concentrations.
    • Liquid carbon is harmful to fish and animals in high concentrations.
    • Liquid carbon is toxic to humans and pets, so take precautions when using these products.

    Heat Treatment for It in Aquariums

    Heat treatment can be a very effective method to remove black beard algae. It does not involve any chemicals, and it’s pretty much free, but there is an obvious downside to this technique.

    Heat will also kill your live plants and animals, so it is only really an option for hardscapes and decorations that can be removed from your aquarium. Alternatively, you could also move your plants and animals into another tank temporarily during the process.

    You do not need to boil the water, although this will be effective on rocks and driftwood. Plastic ornaments and decorations can melt, however, so use caution.

    How To Prevent

    Prevention is always better than cure, so it’s really important to avoid this problem from the start. If you’ve already dealt with a black beard algae problem, you’ll also want to prevent it from coming back!

    Read this section for a more in-depth look at how to avoid introducing black algae, as well as how to prevent it from growing out of control.

    Avoid Introduction

    Black beard algae are usually introduced to fish tanks from other aquariums and water sources. Aquatic plants are a very common culprit, so always take the time to inspect and treat new plants before introducing them to your tank.

    Sometimes this is not enough, so I always suggest growing tissue culture plants that have been grown under sterile lab conditions. Online retailers like Buceplant stock a great range of these aquatic plants!

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    Try not to add any of the water your fish were packaged in by taking the time to slowly acclimate them to your tank water. Never dump a bag full of foreign water into your fish tank! You can totally prevent this way of introduction by properly quarantining your fish.

    Maintain Good Water Quality

    Black beard algae tend to thrive in poor water quality. High nitrate and phosphate levels in particular are thought to contribute to this problem.

    Your first line of defense is regular aquarium maintenance. This means partial water changes at least twice a month and sucking up as much waste with your gravel vacuum as possible. Let’s take a closer look at how to maintain your aquarium to prevent black algae growth.

    Your source water could also be a problem. The best way to remove that issue is to either purchase an RO/RODI filter or use distilled water. Whichever you chose, you will need to remineralizer the water with aquarium buffer.

    Testing

    There’s a lot more going on in our aquariums than meets the eye. Water chemistry is a huge part of maintaining a healthy tank, so you must be able to measure and monitor your water parameters.

    A liquid test kit that can monitor phosphate and nitrate levels will be very important in your fight against black beard algae. Knowing what your levels are will help you figure out just how much water you need to change out, and how often you need to do it.

    Removing water and waste particles

    Decaying waste at the bottom of the tank releases nutrients that feed the brush algae in your aquarium.

    Use a gravel vacuum to suck up this waste while you siphon old water out of the tank. Trimming your aquarium plants before a water change is great because you’ll be able to suck out any trimmings that are floating around in the tank.

    Filter maintenance

    Filter maintenance will not be necessary every time you perform aquarium maintenance.

    It is best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on maintenance regarding your specific model. If your filter sounds different or is not creating as much flow as it should, you might need to rinse out the filtration media.

    Remember, the filtration media of a cycled aquarium is home to a thriving population of tiny beneficial bacteria that break down waste in your tank. These little guys should be treated with the care they deserve!

    To avoid killing these bacteria, only rinse out your filter media in water that you have just removed from the tank. Tap water that has not been conditioned should not be used.

    Adding new water

    It’s usually a good idea to prepare new water before you perform a water change to speed up the process. This involves bringing the tap water up to the same temperature as your tank and treating it with a water conditioner to neutralize harmful chemicals.

    As I mentioned before, your source water can become a contributor to black algae. Consider getting your city’s tap water report or purchase a TDS meter to see the condition of your water. If your water is high in phosphates and nitrates, it may make sense to switch to distilled or RO water.

    Maintain Healthy Plant Growth

    For the most part, brush algae do not grow on strong, healthy aquarium plants. The needs of different plants vary depending on their species, but all live plants need good lighting, access to nutrients, and CO2. Providing these in the right balance is the secret to vigorous plant growth.

    Black beard algae can grow in a wide range of light conditions, so dimming the lights isn’t necessarily the best option. Providing the minimum amount of light needed to promote healthy plant growth is a good general rule for keeping algae at bay, however. Making sure your plants have sufficient good quality light is a better bet than trying to prevent brush algae growth with low light.

    The estimative index (EI) method has proved to be very effective in minimizing this problem in aquarium plants. This method involves fertilizing plants liberally and then performing a large water change every week to ‘reset’ their levels.

    This means live plants are never limited in their access to essential macro and micronutrients, but at the same time, you are taking care to prevent these nutrients from building up to dangerous levels.

    Even healthy leaves die back when they reach the end of their lifespan, so stay on top of pruning and trimming your aquarium plants. This will promote healthy new regrowth and prevent plant matter from decaying in your fish tank.

    Stable CO2 Levels

    While increasing CO2 levels may be one of the best ways to achieve healthy plant growth, it is important to keep the levels consistent. Fluctuating CO2 levels appear to favor the growth and development of black beard algae.

    Running a pressurized CO2 injection system with good circulation and a drop checker is the best way to avoid inconsistent levels. Calibrate your system to maintain CO2 levels between 20 and 30 ppm to maintain optimum plant growth and keep pesky brush algae to a minimum.

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    Increasing or stabilizing the carbon dioxide levels in your tank probably won’t kill off the existing brush algae, but it will certainly help to prevent it from growing back after successful treatment.

    The combination of proper CO2 usage, fertilizers, and lots of plants will lead to lush plant growth that will choke out nuisance algae like BBA.

    Avoid Overstocking and Overfeeding

    Black beard algae thrive in high-nutrient environments. Apart from decaying plant matter, the major sources of these nutrients are fish waste and uneaten food.

    This is a much bigger problem in tanks that have too many fish, and are given too much food. Increasing your filtration capacity and water change schedule can be very helpful, but it is best to keep your bioload down by stocking and feeding your tank conservatively.

    Filtration and Circulation

    Adequate filtration is really important for maintaining healthy fish tanks in general. They filter out waste particles and provide a cozy home for the beneficial bacteria that maintain the nitrogen cycle.

    It is wise to invest in the best quality filtration your budget allows for, and don’t be shy to run more than one filter on your tank either. Adding some phosphate-absorbing media to your filter is a great way to reduce the phosphate levels in your tank.

    We know that fluctuating carbon dioxide levels in the water promote black beard algae, so it makes sense to provide enough circulation to spread this gas evenly through the water column. You can run a small powerhead or wavemaker in your tank if your aquarium filtration system does not create enough water flow.

    FAQs

    How do I get rid of it in my aquarium?

    Controlling black beard algae in your aquarium can be tough. Figuring out the cause of the problem, making some changes, and then killing the algae with careful chemical treatments is the best course of action to solve this problem.

    Is It Harmful To Fish?

    Black beard algae are not harmful to your fish. Some types of fish, like Siamese algae eaters, will even feed on BBA.

    Why does my aquarium have it?

    If you have black beard algae in your aquarium, it was probably introduced with live plants or animals from another fish tank. If the conditions are right, these algae can grow and multiply quite quickly.

    Do snails eat it?

    Some types of snails have been reported to feed on black beard algae. Ramshorn snails in particular can be very effective at controlling black algae. The only downside to these snails is that they have a habit of multiplying fast!

    What kills it?

    Apart from fish species like the Siamese algae eater that feed on black beard algae, the best way to kill it is to dose or spot treat with hydrogen peroxide or liquid carbon dioxide products like Seachem Excel.

    Final Thoughts

    In conclusion, black beard algae is a tough but manageable problem that most aquarium owners will face at one time or another. Don’t lose heart if you find this fuzzy growth in your tank, however. Simply follow the steps in this article to beat this nuisance algae in your aquarium and prevent it from coming back!

    Have you managed to get rid of black algae in your tanks? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

    References

  • Do Betta Fish Need a Heater? Yes โ€” Here’s Why and What to Get

    Do Betta Fish Need a Heater? Yes โ€” Here’s Why and What to Get

    Yes. bettas absolutely need a heater, and I say this as someone who’s kept bettas for over 25 years. I’ve seen the damage that temperature swings and cold water do to bettas that are kept without one. They’re tropical fish from Southeast Asia, and room temperature in most homes is simply too cold and too inconsistent. This guide explains exactly why and what to get.

    Yes. bettas need a heater. This is one of those questions where the answer is clear but gets muddied by the way bettas are marketed and sold. The image of a betta thriving in a small unheated bowl is a pet industry myth that causes real harm. Bettas are tropical fish from Southeast Asia and need water temperature consistently between 76 and 82ยฐF. In most homes, that means a heater is non-negotiable unless you live somewhere that stays warm year-round. The small preset heaters bundled with betta kits are often inadequate. I recommend a properly sized adjustable heater so you can dial in the exact temperature. This guide covers what to look for and how to set it up right.

    The most popular, ornamental, tropical fish in the aquarium world is the Betta fish. Originating from Southeast Asia, Betta fish are commonly found in countries of Malaysia, Cambodia, and Thailand.

    The Answer

    The answer is pretty straightforward. Bettas thrive in a temperature range of no less than 72 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below or above this temperature range can turn your fish too lethargic or sluggish. Therefore, a heating system is imperative to keep your Betta fish happy.

    Now that I’ve given you a quick review about whether Betta fish need a heater, let’s just jump to the basics and discuss further. I have a video above from our YouTube Channel that goes over the topic if you want to follow along. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos every week.

    What are the requirements for a Betta Tank?

    Betta fish are territorial and highly aggressive. They have problematic behaviors where the males can even fight one another to death. Females, however, are less aggressive.

    If you’re planning to build a community tank, avoid keeping bright, colorful fish with your Betta as they will most likely be killed. Go for plain, simple fish for your Betta community tank.

    Tank Size

    If you’re planning to keep one fish per tank, it’s suggested to get a 5-gallon tank. Any type of tank would do as long as it’s 5 gallon. Be it a betta fish bowl, 3 gallon wine glass-shaped aquarium, or other shaped betta tanks. The key is to keep it at least 3 gallons.

    However, if you plan to house more than one fish in your tank, you need a larger tank. For example, to house 5 bettas, the tank size would be 25 to 30 gallons.

    Placement of the tank

    The water temperature matters a lot when it comes to Betta fish, and so does the placement of the tank.

    Betta fish belongs to the tropical areas that receive a lot of sunlight. However, they don’t do well in areas where the tank receives direct sunlight throughout the day. That’s because the rays of the Sun increase the water temperature to the point they go into temperature shock and begin to act erratic, which is unhealthy for Betta. The abnormal increase in water temperature makes Bettas disoriented and it starts swimming in absurd patterns or worst of all. stops swimming altogether.

    The ideal place for your Betta fish tank would be inside, near a door or outside of direct sunlight.

    Tip: Never place your Betta tank on a wall opposite mirrors. The male Bettas would think they have another male in the tank and act territorial and aggressive for no reason.

    Tank Toys 

    Betta fish loves a colorful environment. Thus, it’s shame to keep them in a tank full of water only.

    I suggest putting an aquarium background on the back of your aquarium to provide your betta with a bright or dark background. One great toy to use with a Bettas are ping pongs. Check out the video below (video source). They can even be trained to play water basketball!

    Also, your betta tank should entertain your fish. For this, you can place a few river rocks on top of each other to provide them with a fun hiding space. Betta plants and colored gravels would also add to the beauty of your fish tank. Indian almond leaves also work great.

    Water Conditioner

    Would you want your kids to drink tap water? Absolutely not!

    Similarly, in most areas, the water from your taps won’t suit your betta to live. Because it has some chemicals like Chlorine, Ammonia, and Nitrates that are harmful to your fish. To cater to this problem, a water neutralizer is essential to make your water safe for the fish.

    I suggest filling a container with water and leaving it overnight. Add a high-quality water conditioner like seachem prime to the water and add it to your fish tank.

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    How To Properly House a Betta Tank?

    Bettas are tropical fish that originate from tropical climates of South-East Asia. Despite being hardy and low-maintenance pets, bettas need proper attention and care for a healthy lifestyle.

    Water Temperature

    I cannot emphasize enough the importance of maintaining water temperature for your bettas.

    Bettas need water temperature that ranges between 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below this range will cause your bettas to be lethargic and sluggish. And if the temperature exceeds or lowers too far from the range, you might wake up one day to die, floating betta. Therefore, it’s essential to install a heating system in your fish tank.

    Filtration System

    Installing a filtration system in your aquarium might not be essential, but a smart choice to keep the tank water clean.

    Just make sure to provide a steady water flow in the tank as bettas prefer less water movement in the tank. I suggest going for filters designed for small tanks or adjusting the filters’ settings to restrict the water flow.

    The best filters for a betta fish are ones with lower flow. This means sponge filters ideal. However, power filters can work if the flow can be lowered and if the intake can be covered with a sponge.

    Canister filters are going to be more ideal in planted tanks. All-in-one tanks are also have adequate filters in their tanks.

    Food

    Bettas are carnivorous top-feeders that enjoy wholesome food. Due to their carnivorous nature, bettas require a healthy diet, rich in protein. However, like much other fish, they enjoy variety in their food.

    You can feed your bettas pellet food and live food, including blood worms or brine shrimp. I suggest handling bloodworms with tweezers to avoid mosquito bites. The reason I suggest variety in betta fish food is constipation. Bettas can get easily constipated if given the same food every day. In such conditions, where constipation and other diseases such as swim bladder disease is involved. If you select high quality foods you can avoid this.

    One staple to try is Fluval’s bug bites. It’s made of solider fly and has the roughage needed to keep bladder issues in check. Use multiple foods to balance our your Betta’s diet.

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    As mentioned earlier, live food is a good option. However, frozen food is the best choice for your bettas as they are free from parasites and are designed to meet the nutritional requirements of your bettas.

    It’s essential to invest in high-quality frozen food to keep your bettas healthy and maintain their vibrancy.

    Do Betta Fish Need A Heater

    Yes, Betta fish need an aquarium heater to keep the water warm and temperature maintained.

    Many novice aquarists believe the apparatus like an aquarium heater has advanced features, and so they are reluctant to invest in heaters. However, that’s not the case. Think of a heater as an oven. Just set the temperature to 76 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit on your heater, submerge it in water, and it into the wall. And you’re all set to go.

    Betta Fish Swimming In Black Background

    Now the question is that bugs betta breeders and keepers big time. If I live in a warm climate, why do I need a heater for the aquarium water?

    Of course, you do.

    No amount of warm water and climate can guarantee temperature fluctuations without the aid of a heater. Even in warm climates, the water temperature can go down during the night and abnormally increase during the day, causing temperature shock.

    To keep your betta healthy, the best thing you can ever do is to minimize the chances of temperature shock by installing heaters to ensure the temperature will stay within the safe range. Therefore, it is imperative to get a tank large enough to accommodate a mini heater suitable for a 2-5 gallon tank.

    However, the problem with mini heaters is their inability to take into consideration the actual temperature of the water inside the tank. Due to this, the tank water can get too warm or too cold, adversely affecting the health of your bettas. To administer this problem, small adjustable heaters do a great job of considering the actual water temperature.

    To keep your heaters working properly is also advisable to use a thermometer which makes sure the heater is working perfectly. You can get a variety of thin, small, and cheap thermometers to insert on the side of your aquarium to display the tank temperature.

    Also, to avoid temperature fluctuations, it is important to make sure the room temperature is not different from the tank temperature. Thus, cover your aquarium with a lid or glass cover to lower the rate of water evaporation and ensure that the air above the tank remains warm and moist.

    There are two main reasons to maintain the water temperature for your betta tanks.

    1. Betta’s immune system becomes highly compromised as it gets too stressed out due to temperature fluctuations. This opens room for bacterial infections and other diseases to enter the Betta’s body
    2. Bettas are accustomed to living in a tank with water temperatures ranging between 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes too low or high, it affects the betta’s immune system and energy levels. Your betta, at its worst, can become unresponsive and lethargic, and eventually might die.

    What’s A Good Product?

    There is a myriad of brands in the market, selling various types of heaters. And this might confuse the betta owners.

    Therefore, I’ll list the three best heaters for betta’s tank.

    First of all, remember that the unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is always in watts. So, a great rule of thumb while deciding on a heater is 5 watts per gallon of water. Also, make sure the heater is installed properly to avoid inconvenience.

    If, after research, you’re still not sure which one to buy, I suggest visiting the store and asking the manager to help you choose the right one.

    Types of Heating Systems

    Based on requirements, there are two types of heating systems.

    1. Internal heating systems
    2. External heating systems

    To understand which one works the best for your tank, I recommend asking your local pet store or betta breeders to give you recommendations.

    Note: Proper water circulation is necessary to keep the water temperature maintained. Without proper circulation, your tank water will have cold or hot spots, which are harmful to your bettas.

    Internal Heating Systems

    The most common type of heat source in a betta tank is internal heating systems. These heaters consist of a glass tube, ranging from 4 inches to 12 inches in length. Some practical heaters have a built-in thermostat and some have a thermostat attached outside the tank to control multiple heating systems.

    External Heating Systems

    External heating systems are commonly available offline and online. There are various models, including the one that fits under the tank and heats the water from below, while others just connect to the filtering systems.

    Here are three of my best-recommended heaters for your Betta tanks.

    1. Finnext STE

    Editor’s Choice
    Finnex STE Series
    Finnex STE Series

    Best Aquarium Heater

    Finnex has achieved what we as hobbyist have asked for decades. A reliable heater that won’t fail. Japanese components. Receives our top recommendation.

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    A very reliable heater that solves most of your tank problems. This is a fully-submersible heater, allowing you to install it right where you need it.

    The corrosion-resistant Titanium body will not rot or corrode even after years of use. it’s cheaper than the BRS Titanium element and reasonable to keep if you plan on keep more expensive betta breeds.

    2. Eheim Jager

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    Eheim Jager Aquarium Heater

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    Very accurate, durable, and German made. A great value buy for any aquarium

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    This German-made, exceptional aquarium heater stands the test of time with its simple and safe temperature recalibration, temperature control accuracy, and precise temperature adjustment for up to 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit.

    The only downside to this heater is its big, bulky, old-school lab-grade glass design.

    3. Helio

    Premium Pick
    Helio Heater
    Helio Heater

    The Helio heater by Innovative Marine offers a new heater technology that is safer and more reliable than traditional heating systems

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    An amazing heater for your Betta aquarium with cutting-edge PTC technology. However, they come in smaller wattage sizes. Therefore, for a large tank, you need multiple units. It’s also very expensive. It’s best for tanks where your Betta will be in a prized aquascape.

    FAQs

    Can They Survive With A Warm Tank?

    Yes, Betta fish can survive with a heater. It’s a requirement to install a heater in Betta’s tank as they require temperatures ranging from 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit.

    How Can I Keep Them Warm Without A System?

    You can keep your Bettas warm without a heater. However, it’s not advisable as temperature fluctuations can even kill your pet fish.

    Still, there are a few ways to keep them warm without installing a heater.

    – Use a heating mat
    – Cover the tank properly
    – Use strong tank lights
    – Add insulation layers
    – Thermometer to monitor the water temperature of betta’s tank

    How Do I Know They Are Cold?

    Here are some of the symptoms of cold temperature shock in your bettas.

    – Restless, erratic swimming
    – Resting at the bottom of the tank
    – Lethargic behavior
    – Rapid breathing
    – Staying at the surface

    What Is The Coolest Temperature A They Can Live In?

    The ideal temperature range for your betta is 72- 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything above or below these ranges is detrimental to your tropical fish. Therefore, I recommend maintaining the temperature below 75 degrees Fahrenheit but it shouldn’t fall below 70 degrees at any cost.

    Final Thoughts

    Bettas are popular among many aquarists in the aquarium trade. They are hardy, low-maintenance, and easy to keep. However, a few things about Bettas should be taken into consideration, including, the amount of fish you’re going to keep, the size of your rank, tank toys to fend off boredom, and most importantly, keeping the water warm with the help of a heater.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • 21 Types of Guppies: A Visual Guide to Fancy Guppy Varieties and Tail Shapes

    21 Types of Guppies: A Visual Guide to Fancy Guppy Varieties and Tail Shapes

    Fancy guppies from pet stores are genetically fragile. Decades of inbreeding for color have produced fish that die from diseases wild guppies shrug off. The gap between a well-bred guppy and a mass-produced one is the difference between a fish that thrives for years and one that dies in weeks.

    Where you buy your guppies matters more than how you keep them.

    Guppies get written off as beginner fish, and while that’s fair. They’re genuinely forgiving. The variety within the species is something most hobbyists underestimate. Fancy guppies have been selectively bred for decades into dozens of distinct tail shapes and color patterns: delta tails, veil tails, sword tails, mosaic patterns, cobra patterns, and more. Serious guppy breeders treat this like a competitive show hobby, and the results are impressive. Even if you’re not getting into breeding, knowing the different types helps you pick what you actually want instead of grabbing whatever the store happens to have. Here are 21 guppy varieties worth knowing.

    What Is a Guppy Fish?

    Guppies are small fresh and brackish water fish from the Poeciliidae family. There are many popular aquarium fish in this group, including mollies, plays, and swordtails. They are livebearers, which means they do not lay eggs but rather give birth to live free-swimming fry.

    Here is a YouTube from my YouTube channel to get you started. I’ll go into more in detail in this post. If you like videos like this, please make sure to like and subscribe!

    Read on to learn all about guppies, their care, and the different types that you can keep and breed!

    What Makes Them Such Great Pets?

    Guppies are probably the best beginners fish in the hobby, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t excellent for experienced fishkeepers too.

    Guppy Fish

    Guppies are:

    • Very affordable
    • Highly attractive
    • Easy to care for
    • Easy to breed
    • Active and fascinating to watch

    Guppies seem to have it all!

    In Their Natural Habitat

    Guppies are adaptable to a variety of natural habitats in their native distribution. They prefer slow-moving or still waters and are most at home in pools of streams and rivers or ponds and swamps. These fish are mostly found in freshwater although they have been recorded in brackish water too.

    Guppy fish have also established populations all over the world after being released into the wild to control mosquito larvae. They also populate local waterways when they are released from fish tanks or escape from ponds. Who knows, there could even be some wild guppies near your home!

    The History Of Guppy Keeping

    The guppy was first sent to Europe from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. The name of the man responsible for introducing this fish to the hobby was Robert John Lechmere Guppy, and the year was 1866. The fish was officially named Giradinus guppyi1.

    He was not the first European to discover the fish, however, that honor goes to a German man named Julius Gollmer who found these fish in the wild many years before. Guppies have been kept for over 150 years, and they are just as popular as ever!

    The International Guppy Associations

    International Guppy Association

    Fancy guppies are bred and kept all over the world. International associations have been created to bring hobbyists together and attempt to standardize the hobby. The International Fancy Guppy Association (IGFA) is one of the best examples.

    IGFA was founded in 1965 and has developed show standards for the various breeds of fancy guppy. They are also a great resource for keepers who would like to learn more about the fascinating world of guppy breeding.

    The IKGH is another very important international association that was formed in 1981. They have been active in the guppy breeding hobby ever since, holding regular shows and competitions all over the world.

    3 Types by Species

    There are many wild guppy fish species, but the three most commonly kept types are listed below.

    1. Micropoecilia picta

    Micropoecilia picta fish
    • Common name: Scarlet livebearer, swamp guppy, painted guppy
    • Adult size: 1.2 inches
    • Origin: South America, Caribbean
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

    The scarlet livebearer is a brackish water species that is found in the Caribbean and Countries like Brazil and Guyana. They are also known as swamp guppies or painted guppies.

    They have red or orange overall color but are also boldly marked with various other colors. Females swamp guppies are larger than males. They are a hard water species and they are at home in slightly brackish water.

    2. Poecilia wingei

    Endler's Livebearer
    • Common name: Endler’s livebearer, Endler’s guppy
    • Size: 1-1.8 inches
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

    Endler’s livebearer is an awesome nano guppy species from Venezuela in South America. Endler guppies reach a maximum size of about 1.8 inches. The males are much smaller and more colorful than the females.

    3. Poecilia reticulata

    Fancy Guppy Fish
    • Common name: Common guppy, fancy guppy
    • Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
    • Origin: South America, Caribbean
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

    The common guppy is one of the most popular aquarium fish on the planet. These fish are available in a huge variety of breeds known as fancy guppies.

    They are native to the northeastern parts of South America and the Caribbean islands. They grow to about 2.5 inches in length, with females growing larger than males.

    21 Types by Variety

    Now that you know a little more about guppies and their history, it’s time to learn about some of the amazing fancy guppy varieties out there in the hobby. I’ll provide a brief explanation of the most important features of each type.

    Before we get started, here are a few important terms to know:

    • Dorsal fin: The fin on the back of a fish. The shape and length of this fin are important for identifying many of the fancy guppy breeds.
    • Pectoral fin: The pectoral fin is located on the side of a fish’s body, just behind its head. There is a pectoral fin on either side of the body.
    • Caudal fin: Caudal fin is the technical name for a fish’s tailfin. Tail shape and tail patterns vary pretty extensively between the different guppy types.

    Now that we’re all up to speed on the fancy fishy words, let’s jump right in and meet some fancy guppies!

    1. Fantail

    The fantail guppy is a very common breed that is easy to find. The males have large, beautiful caudal fins that are about as long as the fish’s body! The standard for the breed is a long, triangular tail with straight edges.

    The dorsal fin is also a distinctive feature of this breed. It should sweep back to about the first third of the tail.

    2. Delta Tail

    The delta tail guppy (video source) is also known as the triangle tail guppy. They are very similar to the fantail guppies but the outer edge of their tail is slightly convex (rounded outwards). Delta tail guppies come in all sorts of different colors and patterns.

    3. Lyretail

    Lyretail guppies have very interesting tail shapes. In case you were wondering, a lyre is an ancient U-shaped musical instrument, and that’s where these fish get their name.

    This tail shape is similar to the double swordtail, but the extensions curve outwards slightly, instead of being straight and parallel.

    4. Roundtail

    Round tail guppies (video source) have a circular tail fin with a diameter about half the length of their body. Their dorsal fin is pretty long and has a rounded end. The round tail guppy breed is available in a huge range of different colors and patterns, so there’s a round tail to suit any fishkeeper’s eye!

    5. Half-moon Tail

    https://youtu.be/Ub1VsZY-0Q0

    The half-moon tail guppy (video source) is similar to the round tail but has a larger, fuller caudal fin. The tail is semicircular, starting at 90 degrees (right angles) to the fish’s body.

    The tail is not quite as long as the body but is even taller than the fish is long! The dorsal fin on halfmoon tail guppies is also large and overlaps the tail a little.

    6. Spear Tail

    Speartail Guppy

    The spear tail guppy is another interesting fancy guppy breed. These fish have rounded tails that form a point in the middle, just like a spear tip.

    The dorsal fin shape of this breed is also a great feature. It starts at nearly 90 degrees to the body and sweeps back to about a third of the length of the tail fin.

    7. Pin Tail

    The pintail or needle tail guppy (video source) has a small circular tail shape with a sharp point extending from the middle. It is very similar to the spear tail guppy in this respect, but the pointed caudal fin is even more prominent in this breed. The dorsal fin is also quite long and sharply pointed, creating a bold and dramatic-looking fancy guppy.

    8. Tuxedo

    Tuxedo guppies (video source) are very elegant little fish, just as their name suggests! This popular breed was first developed in Germany.

    The tail half of their body is black or another solid color. The tail and dorsal fin will also be a different color to the dark half of the body, but without any spots or patterning.

    9. Sword Tail

    There are a few different varieties of the swordtail fancy guppy breed. The swordtail breed of the fancy guppy should not be confused with the swordtail fish (Xiphophorus hellerii) which grows much larger.

    Double swordtail guppies have both the top and bottom of their tail fins elongated to form a sword shape. They can also be found in top or bottom swordtail forms where only one end of the tail is pointed. The middle section of the tail should not be colored, and this really makes the ‘swords’ stand out.

    10. Cobra

    Cobra Guppies
    Cobra Guppies

    A colorful guppy fish with green and black coloration on its tail

    Click For Best Price

    Cobra guppies come in a variety of colors, but it is their markings that set them apart. These amazing fancy guppies have a combination of reticulated markings and often have darker vertical bars too. The markings on their tails are often bolder than those on their bodies.

    11. Lace

    Lace guppies have incredibly intricate markings on their body and fins. They are similar to cobra guppies but lack the vertical bars on their body. Lace guppies are available in various colors, including red, gold, black, and many others.

    12. Mosaic Tail

    Mosaic tail guppies have amazing markings on their tails and dorsal fins. The markings are similar to those of the lace guppy, only much bolder. The tail coloration of this breed becomes darker and more intense from the start of the fin to the back.

    13. Albino

    Albino guppies lack pigment, which makes them pinkish-white overall. This makes for a tropical fish that really stands out in the aquarium.

    Their eyes are also a pinkish color, which differentiates them from other white guppies. Albino guppies can have some color though, they often show some red, yellow, or blue markings on their bodies and fins.

    14. Japanese Blue

    Japanese blue guppies (video source) have a metallic dark blue to sky blue color on the tail half of their bodies. The head is often golden or reddish in this breed. The Japanese blue swordtail guppy is a particularly popular tail shape form of this breed.

    15. Green

    Green Guppy

    Green guppies are one of the best color schemes if you ask me. They are relatively rare, but available in many different patterns and tail shape types.

    16. Yellow

    Yellow (video source) is a very cheerful color, and a bunch of sunshine-colored guppies can make for a great display. Yellow guppies are available in various breeds including yellow tuxedos, and yellow cobra guppies.

    17. Half Black Green

    The half-black green guppy has a black back half of its body and a green front. There are many different half-black color combinations, but green is one of the rarest forms.

    18. Koi

    This fancy guppy fish breed is named after another popular fish. Like their larger namesake, koi guppies have a combination of white, red, and black colors.

    19. Panda

    The panda guppy (video source) is mostly black/blue and white in color. The tail half of the fish be dark while the front half is a silvery color. These fish have dark pectoral fins and dark eyes too.

    20. Dragon

    Dragon guppies have one of the most dramatic color schemes of all the breeds. These fish are known for their fiery red fins with a half-black guppy body.

    21. Dumbo Ear

    Dumbo ear guppies (video source) have huge pectoral fins that look almost like the ears of an elephant! Even though their name sounds kind of goofy, these fish take finnage to the extreme and they are incredibly graceful and beautiful to watch.

    Other Notable Types

    Just in case you’re interested in even more types of guppies, here’s a list of some other popular types that you can look for!

    Color types

    • Half black purple guppy
    • Half black blue guppy
    • Half black yellow guppy
    • Half black pastel guppy
    • Blue guppy
    • Red guppy
    • black guppy
    • Neon blue guppy
    • Purple guppy
    • Bronze guppy
    • Glass guppies

    Tail types

    • Flag tail guppy
    • Fire tail guppy
    • Leopard tail guppy
    • Grass tail guppy

    Keeping and Caring

    After looking at all the amazing types of guppies in this article, you might have already chosen a favorite and be thinking of adding them to your collection. Read this section to learn the basics of caring for these fantastic fish!

    Tank Setup

    Guppies is kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons. Such a small tank would only be appropriate for a small group of male fish, however.

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    The last thing you want is for these fish to start breeding and overpopulating a small tank, so I would suggest going up to a 20-gallon or larger if you plan on keeping a mixed group.

    Filtration

    Adequate filtration is really important for keeping tropical fish healthy, and guppies are no exception. There are many makes and models available, and any type that is rated for your aquarium size or larger will do.

    You don’t need the most expensive filter to maintain healthy guppies, but I would recommend running a slightly oversized model. An even better choice is to run two filters. Not only will this provide you with a safety net should one fail, but it will also allow for the increased bioload once your fish begin breeding. A power filter is the best combo of filtration capacity and budget when it comes to guppies.

    Heating

    Guppies are hardy fish that are comfortable in temperatures down to the lower 70s (Fahrenheit). Pregnant female guppies have been reported to be more susceptible to ich at lower temperatures, however, so maintaining breeding fish at 78-80ยฐF is advised. Using an aquarium heater will make this much easier!

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    Lighting

    Guppies do not have any special lighting needs. Standard fluorescent or LED lighting will suit them just fine. You will only need to look into high-quality lighting if you wish to grow a lot of live plants.

    Provide your guppies with a regular light period of 6 to 8 hours a day. Using a timer will make keeping regular timing much easier.

    Live Plants

    Guppies thrive in planted aquariums and the cover that plants create provides a great place for guppy fry to hang out. Plants are also very useful for increasing oxygen levels and taking up nitrates from the water column.

    Although guppies will nip at decaying plant material and eat microorganisms from your plants, they do not damage live plants. Guppies prefer hard, alkaline water, so your choice of plants is slightly more limited.

    Here are a few easy plants that you can grow in your aquarium:

    Decor

    Guppies are not fussy when it comes to ornaments and decorations. They are confident and active little fish that do not hide out too much. Choose your decorations based on the style or theme of the aquarium you are putting together, and don’t be afraid to use your creativity!

    Remember though, only use aquarium-safe decorations and make sure you wash them carefully before adding them to the tank.

    How To Care

    Guppies are very easy fish to care for, but there are still some important things you should know before bringing them home. Read on for more information.

    Tank Maintenance

    Perform a partial water change at least every second week in your guppy tank to keep nitrate levels down. If your tank is heavily stocked, or you’re feeding the tank frequently because you have a lot of fry, you might want to increase this to once or even twice a week. Remember to use a water conditioner if you are using tap water in your aquarium.

    The only way to know whether you’re doing enough tank maintenance is to measure your water parameters regularly. Pick up a liquid or strip test kit for this purpose.

    Be very careful when performing water changes if you have a lot of fry in the aquarium. I suggest carefully inspecting the water you take out of the tank just in case any fry get sucked up!

    Apart from regular water changes, all you really need to do is clean your glass with an algae scraper when necessary and follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter.

    Important Water Parameters

    • Water temperature: 72-80ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Hardness: 143. 536 ppm
    • Nitrate: Less than 20 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Ammonia: 0 ppm

    Feeding

    Guppies are naturally omnivorous and the modern domestic guppy is not fussy about diet at all. A high-quality flake food is a perfect everyday food source for these fish.

    For a more balanced diet, I recommend supplementing their diet with an unprocessed food source like bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. These are available frozen so they are very easy to use. A small amount of these once or twice a week will improve your fish’s health and condition.

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    Tankmates

    One of the best things about guppies is their peaceful nature. They are confident little fish that are always active and visible in the aquarium. They get along great with many other tropical freshwater fish.

    The most important factor to consider when picking guppy tankmates is their water parameter compatibility. Guppies thrive in hard, alkaline water, so their tank mates should be comfortable in the same environment.

    Let’s take a look at some good guppy tank mates, and some species to avoid.

    Good Tankmates

    Tankmates to Avoid

    Health and Disease

    Guppies are hardy fish, so they are not especially prone to any problems. As a rule, the best way to prevent health issues is to minimize stress. Let’s take a look at some of the best ways to prevent guppy illness:

    • Perform regular aquarium maintenance for great water quality
    • Avoid overfeeding your fish
    • Avoid overstocking your aquarium
    • Maintain appropriate water parameters
    • Avoid aggressive tank mates

    Unfortunately, poor health and disease can happen even when you’re doing everything right. Here are some of the most common guppy health issues to look out for:

    • Ich (white spot disease)
    • Columnaris (Saddleback/ cotton wool disease)
    • Hexamita (Hole in the head)
    • Camallanus worm

    Breeding

    Breeding guppies is extremely easy, so this is a great species to get started with if you’ve never bred tropical fish before. Guppies are livebearers, which means that female guppies give birth to live baby fry. Each female guppy can give birth every month, which means you’re guppy population can grow very quickly!

    Female guppies can breed after just 2- 3 months, although it is better to let them grow a little older before they start breeding. Such a short generation time makes guppies an amazing species for breeding projects.

    Sexing

    Sexing guppies is very easy because adults are sexually dimorphic. This means there are clear physical differences between the sexes that are easy to spot. Let’s take a closer look at some of these guppy sex differences:

    • Body size

    Overall size is probably the most obvious difference between male and female guppies. Adult females are significantly larger than males.

    • Body shape

    Female guppies have a much more rounded body shape than males, especially when they are pregnant. Males have a very slender build.

    • Finnage

    Male guppies have much larger fins in comparison with their body size. Their fins are much more heavily patterned and colored too.

    The anal fin of male guppies is modified into a structure known as the gonopodium. It is narrow and elongated in comparison to the triangular anal fin of the female.

    • Color

    Male guppies are much more boldly marked and colorful than females in general.

    Pregnant female guppies do have a unique marking that easily identifies them from males, however. Look out for a dark triangular marking on the belly, just in front of the anal fin. This marking is known as the gravid spot and will confirm that the fish is a pregnant female.

    • Behavior

    Female guppies spend most of their time foraging while males spend a lot of time swimming around the females, trying to get their attention.

    Caring for fry

    Guppy fry are easy to care for. The fact that they are born live means that you don’t have to worry about egg predation from the other fish in the tank. Unfortunately, adult guppies have no problem eating guppy fry, so it is best to separate them to increase the survival rate of the babies.

    Catching all the tiny fry to move them to a separate tank is not going to be easy. Moving a pregnant female over to your fry tank is a much better option! You can go ahead and move the mother fish back into the main tank once she has given birth.

    Another great option, which is less stressful on the pregnant female is to add a breeder box to your tank. If you’re not too worried about some of the babies being snacked on, simply growing some floating plants in the tank will provide them with a place to hide out until they are big enough to swim out in the open. I’ve found that water wisteria works great for this, but Java moss will work just as well or even better.

    Guppy fry are tiny but hardy little fish. They is fed the same flake food as the adults, but you’re going to want to crush it up for them. You can use a pepper grinder for this or simply crush the flakes in the palm of your hand.

    Preventing Breeding

    While breeding guppies may be a fun and fascinating hobby, it is important to have a plan for the fry! The only reliable way to prevent guppies from breeding is to keep only male or only female fish.

    Mature females are often already pregnant when you bring them home, so males are a safer bet. When buying female guppies for a breeding project, look for females without very swollen bellies and obvious gravid spots.

    Where to Buy

    Most local pet stores will sell mutt guppies, and sometimes also a selection of different breeds. For specific breeds, you need to order online or contact local clubs and breeders.

    FAQS

    How many types are there?

    There are an amazing number of different guppy types available in the hobby. There are 12 officially recognized tail types alone and combined with the various colors and patterns, the number becomes almost infinite!

    Can different types live together?

    Different types of guppies is kept together without any problems. Fancy guppies will breed freely together, so don’t mix them if you’re planning on breeding specific types.

    How many should be kept together?

    Guppies should be kept in groups of at least 3 or more. If you are keeping both males and females, keep at least 2 or 3 females for every male. This will give the females a break from all the attention.

    How many times a day should I feed them?

    Guppies is fed just once a day. These fish will spend much of their time foraging in the aquarium for algae and other food sources. Guppy fry will benefit from more frequent feeding, however.

    What is their lifespan?

    Healthy guppies will live for 1-3 years in captivity. There are reports of them living as long as five years, however.

    Final Thoughts

    I think guppies deserve more appreciation than they get. These fish are the complete package, for all experience levels. The fact that new breeds are still being developed makes this fish even more exciting!

    Do you keep guppies? Tell us about your favorite guppy types in the comments below! To learn more about guppy lifespan, check out this article here.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Endlers Livebearers – A Complete Care Guide

    Endlers Livebearers – A Complete Care Guide

    Endlers are smaller, hardier, and less inbred than fancy guppies. They are also relentless breeders that will overrun a tank in months. Pure strains are increasingly hard to find because they hybridize with guppies constantly.

    Endlers breed faster than you can rehome them. Have a plan before you start.

    The biggest challenge with Endlers Livebearers to A is not keeping them alive. It is managing how fast they multiply.

    The Endlers Livebearers to A breeds constantly and lives 3 to 5 years. You need a plan for fry before you buy your first pair, or your tank will be overrun within months.

    Livebearers teach you more about population management than any textbook ever will.

    Table of Contents

    When it comes to choosing a fish for your tank, there are endless possibilities. However, one of the best options for starters is the Endler’s livebearer. These little beauties are vibrant and easy to care for, making them an excellent choice for anyone just getting started with keeping fish. In this guide, we’ll go over everything you need to know about caring for Endlers livebearers, from feeding and tank requirements to breeding them successfully. So keep reading to learn more about these amazing fish!

    Pure Endlers are getting harder to find because hybridization with guppies is everywhere. What the store calls an Endler might not be one.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Endlers Livebearers. A Complete

    The most common mistake I see with endlers livebearers. A completes is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Endlers Livebearers. A Completes look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, endlers livebearers. A completes are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.

    The Reality of Keeping Endlers Livebearers to A

    Breeding is not optional. It is automatic. If you have males and females, you will have fry within weeks. Most new owners are not prepared for the population explosion. You need a plan, whether that is a grow-out tank, selling to a local store, or keeping predators that naturally control numbers.

    Water hardness matters more than people realize. Livebearers come from hard, alkaline water. Keeping them in soft, acidic conditions leads to chronic health problems, fin clamping, and shortened lifespans. If your tap water is soft, livebearers are not ideal unless you buffer the water.

    Male aggression is constant. Males chase females relentlessly. Without a ratio of at least two females per male, the females get stressed, stop eating, and weaken. Overcrowding males does not solve this. It makes it worse.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Buying one male and one female thinking it will be manageable. Within three months you have 30 to 50 fish in a tank designed for 10. Always plan for breeding output before you buy your first pair.

    Expert Take

    If you are keeping livebearers, you are a breeder whether you planned to be or not. Accept it early and have a plan for the fry. That single decision prevents 90% of livebearer problems.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Poecilia wingei
    Common Names Endler’s livebearers, Endlers, Endler’s guppy, guppies
    Family Poeciliidae
    Origin Venezuela
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Moderate
    Lifespan 1-3 years 
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level Middle and top
    Minimum Tank Size 10 gallons
    Temperature Range 64 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness 1. 12 dKH
    pH Range 5.5 – 8.0
    Filtration/Water Flow Low to moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Livebearer
    Difficulty to Breed Easy
    Compatibility Community tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks? Yes

    Classification

    Taxonomic Rank Classification
    Common Name Endler’s Livebearer
    Scientific Name Poecilia wingei
    Order Cyprinodontiformes
    Family Poeciliidae
    Genus Poecilia
    Species P. Wingei

    Origins and Habitat

    Authentic Endlers originate from the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoons in northeastern Venezuela. These areas are very unique in their formation as they were originally categorized as having brackish water conditions. This was the result of a sandbar being formed over time which created a division from the nearby ocean. As freshwater runoff and rain filled the lagoon, it slowly became less and less brackish until it became fully freshwater.

    Upon the discovery of Endlers in the wild, this water was notably warm and hard with algae covering most surfaces; this is different from the habitats of other related species that enjoy cooler waters instead.

    Right now, this ecosystem is threatened by runoff from a nearby waste facility. The status of wild populations of Poecilia wingei is currently unknown and undocumented by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species1, though it is believed that numbers are dwindling. It is also believed that Endlers have spread to nearby areas of Venezuela, which brings some hope to their remaining populations.

    Interestingly, Endlers were originally discovered in 1937 by Franklyn F. Bond and then later discovered in 1975 by John Endler.

    Are They a Type of Guppy?

    Taxonomically, Endlers livebearers are their own species, Poecilia wingei, and guppies are their own species, Poecilia reticulata. There has been a lot of debate about how closely these two species are related and if they are actually one and the same. In fact, Endlers were originally discovered in the same ecosystems as wild guppies, though they were not found to interbreed even though hybridization is possible.

    Recent findings suggest that Endlers are undoubtedly a species of their own separate from Poecilia reticulata and another closely related guppy, Poecilia obscura. There have also been attempts to group these three guppies in their own subgenus called Acanthophacelus.

    For now, the debate carries on about exactly how these species are related.

    What Do Endlers Livebearers Look Like?

    Endler's Livebearer

    When placed next to a typical freshwater guppy, it’s clear to see how Endlers is the same species.

    Endlers grow to be about 1 inch at their absolute biggest. They have slim bodies with a round stomach and rounded tail. These fish display sexual dimorphism like regular guppies, which makes the males easy to identify from the females.

    Standard Endlers livebearer females are very plain in color. They are brownish-green in coloration with a white abdominal cavity. Endlers livebearer males are much more desirable due to their smaller bodies yet bright colorations. Males have orange streaks down the sides of their bodies that continue onto the margins of their tapered fins. Patterning across the body is random with overlays of black, yellow, and sometimes blue or white. The base color is similar to that of the female.

    However, breeding Endlers livebearers has become a specialization in order to achieve the best colors and patterns possible. Because wild populations aren’t accessible, almost every Endlers livebearer fish available in the hobby is the result of selective breeding. From this, a few different varieties have been made popular.

    Varieties

    The original types of Endlers livebearer guppy are those that were collected when wild populations could still be found. These guppies are known as the Campoma guppy and many of the Endlers available today are descendants from this line.

    Other varieties have also been bred from this line:

    El Silverado Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Silverado’). Male El Silverado’s have nearly metallic bodies with a large silver patch accented by orange, black, and green markings.

    El Tigre Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Tigre’). Male El Tigre’s have a nearly black base color. Along the sides of their body are alternating yellow, green, orange, and darker grey striping.

    Yellow Tiger Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘Yellow Tiger’). Male Yellow Tiger’s are very ornate with unique black and yellow patterning covering the majority of their body. In contrast, females are plain and standard colors.

    In order to preserve the natural colors found in wild populations, Endlers have been bred with common guppies. In the aquarium hobby, these fish are referred to as a ‘Class K’ Endler. Fish that is traced originating from Venezuela are known as a โ€˜Class N’ Endler.

    One of the truest variations of Endlers is the Red Flame Endlerโ€™s Livebearer. These peaceful fish have splashes of green, orange, black, and white and represent the standard appearance of this species.

    Size

    As mentioned before, female Endlers livebearers only grow to be about 1 inch. Male endler’s livebearers can range anywhere from 0.5-1.0 inches and are significantly smaller than their mates. This is in comparison to the common guppy which can grow up to 2.0 inches.

    As we’ll discuss, these mature sizes make them the perfect candidates for nano aquariums, but their high activity levels will need to be considered. The small size of the endlers livebearer also makes them more susceptible to getting caught up in aquarium filtration, like filters and powerheads.

    How Long Do They Live?

    On top of being small, Endlers do not live long, unfortunately. Most fish only live to be 1-3 years old. It is also believed that female Endlers may have shorter lifespans if they regularly spawn. Luckily, an Endlers livebearer population can sustain itself once established.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Endlers livebearers are very active swimmers that will stay towards the top and middle sections of the aquarium; they may venture down to the lower portions of the tank from time to time but you’ll most often find them waiting to be fed at the surface.

    In terms of temperament and activity level, these freshwater fish are identical to guppies. They’re constantly moving, looking for something to eat or a female to chase. Because of this, it’s important to keep a high female to male ratio to keep fish from getting stressed out.

    Otherwise, these the Endler’s livebearer will show their brightest colors when happy and healthy.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Endlers livebearers are the perfect community freshwater fish. They don’t bother anyone but themselves and can add beautiful accents of color to an otherwise boring stocking.

    In general, male and female Endlers livebearers is kept with any fish that is labeled as community-friendly. However, these fish are highly active which could easily stress out other fish sharing the same areas of the tank.

    That being said, some of the best Endlers fish tank mates are:

    Betta fish are okay. While males can chase and try to pick at Endlers, they are faster than guppies and mollies so they are okay in larger tanks.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Endlers are schooling fish. They are naturally bold and curious on their own but they are most comfortable in a group setting.

    At the same time, you will need to keep a high ratio between male and female Endler’s livebearers to prevent harassment. I recommend you have three females for every one male Endler. The starting number of fish should be around three or four and should be increased depending on tank size.

    If male Endlers ever outnumber female Endlers, you may have a problem with bullying and/or overpopulation.

    Least Compatible Fish

    Just as common guppies are fed as feeder fish to bigger prey, Endlers will also be seen as prey to some aggressive species.

    A good rule of thumb is to avoid freshwater fish that would be able to fit an Endler in their mouth. Though fast, Endlers make a good snack, especially if they’re annoying another larger fish by being too active.

    Surprisingly, another bad tank mate for Endlers is the common guppy. This isn’t because these two fish won’t get along, but it’s because they’ll get along too well. Guppies and Endlers have been known to hybridize and produce fertile offspring. While this isn’t a problem as long as those fish stay in contained systems, authentic Endler lineages is lost in the process.

    If you don’t mind losing the true appearance of the guppy or Endler guppy, then this combination is possible. Otherwise, one or the other should be chosen.

    Inverts

    Endlers livebearers are a popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks, like those with red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) and Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata).

    These fish stay at the top of the tank while the shrimp stay at the bottom. There is little to no chance that an Endler guppy can fit a shrimp into their mouths, though they may pick at any smaller fry that are in the aquarium.

    Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers are completely invert-safe and is kept with snails and microcrabs. Some larger crabs and crayfish could see your Endler guppies as a meal, though they may be too fast to catch.

    What Do They Eat?

    Endlers livebearers are omnivores with extremely small mouths. They aren’t picky eaters and will even enjoy grazing on some of the available algae throughout the tank, but will display their best colors when provided with a well-varied and high-quality diet.

    For the most part, these fish will do just fine on a high-protein freshwater fish flake food or pellet food like Xtreme Aquatics Nano. Flakes are more preferred for beginners as they is easily broken up for easier feeding.

    Great For Nano Fish


    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano


    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.


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    Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers may be given a variety of live and frozen foods. They’ll especially love an assortment of worms, like bloodworms and Tubifex worms, as well as brine shrimp. They may also be given blanched vegetables from time to time as long as they can easily be digested by your fish.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    Chances are that you’ll be greeted at the top of the tank by a group of hungry Endlers any time you go to open the aquarium hood. These fish are always willing to eat! But keep in mind, the more you feed, the more waste they will make.

    Endler’s livebearers are very small yet very active fish. This means that they can’t eat a lot at one time, but they need energy throughout the day to keep them going. It’s recommended to feed manageable portions two to three times throughout the day. This schedule will keep them fed without introducing too much waste into the aquarium.

    If the tank is mature and stocked with live plants, then these peaceful fish can get some of their nutrition from the microflora that’s already available. They’ll especially like picking at algae growing on guppy grass (Najas guadalupensis).

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Being a hardy community fish, Endler’s livebearers is kept in most tank setups. However, these fish look their best when the tank is set up around them to accent their colors and movements. If keeping some of the higher-end varieties, then you’ll especially want to show them off!

    Tank Size

    Most sites will say that a 10 gallon fish tank will happily house a small school of Endlers livebearers. While this is true, the top of the tank will likely be overwhelmed by their activity. It’s better to give them a slightly larger tank, like a 20 gallon long, where they have more surface area to fill.


    Aqueon 20 Gallon Tank


    Aqueon 20 Gallon Tank

    A classic 20 gallon aquarium in its 30 inch long variant. A very popular aquarium.


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    Having a bigger tank also allows for more tank mates, though many hobbyists like to keep active livebearers together. At some point, it can become a little silly to have 100 Endlers in a 100 gallon fish tank!

    Filtration

    Endler’s livebearers are small, but they have a fast metabolism. This means that they will quickly process foods and fill the tank with waste. Because hobbyists have a large group of them, this can add up and can cause problematic water parameters, especially if the tank is fully stocked.

    These fish can tolerate higher water flows and will even enjoy fighting against a strong current. However, an overly strong water flow can easily push these small fish around. Hang on the back and canister filters need to be baffled to keep your fish from getting hurt.

    The better alternative to an external filter is an internal sponge filter. Not only do sponge filters keep the water clean and oxygenated, but they are also completely safe for more delicate fish, like Endlers.

    Because many Endler’s livebearers are kept together at once, it is recommended to go with a bigger filter than what is recommended. Remember, waste can add up very quickly!

    Water Parameters

    Endlers livebearers are very hardy fish and will adapt to most water conditions as long as they don’t change too quickly. Making sure Ammonia and Nitrite are zero and nitrates are low are common things to check and monitor with a test kit. You can enhance your filtration and perform water changes and tank maintenance to maintain great parameters.

    Unlike some other livebearers, Endler guppies actually prefer warmer and harder water. Water temperature should stay between 64ยฐF. 82ยฐF with 78ยฐF being the most optimal for the success of other species. Most aquarium-bred Endlers have adapted to live in 1-12 dKH water hardness and a near-neutral pH of 7.0.

    For the most part, these fish will forgive minor fluctuations in water parameters, making them a great and easy choice for beginners. Still, it is recommended to properly quarantine and acclimate new fish before adding them to the aquarium to reduce the risk of shock and transfer of disease.

    Breeding

    Not only are Endlers livebearers incredibly hardy, but they’re also some of the easiest fish to breed in the aquarium hobby (video by The Dave). So much so that you’ll actually have problems getting them to stop breeding rather than to start.

    Male Endlers are very easy to tell apart from females. At least three females should be kept per male at all times. If you don’t want to end up with a hundred baby Endlers in your aquarium, only buy males or females. Do not combine them because they will breed.

    Otherwise, breeding is a matter of when rather than how. Good water parameters, a high-quality diet, and a natural tank setting will all help your fish feel comfortable enough to reproduce.

    When your fish are happy, you will notice the males flashing and displaying their fins to females, occasionally chasing after them too; note that males can become overly eager, damaging fins and even killing females in extreme cases. For the most part, this isn’t anything to worry about, though aggression should be monitored.

    Once successful, females will have an average brood of about 15 baby fish; as a type of livebearer, Endlers do not lay eggs and fish are free-swimming once born. Adult females can reproduce again after about a month after spawning.

    Fry is given small foods, like baby brine shrimp. To increase the odds of baby fish living to adulthood, remove them from the tank and place them into another system until they can’t be eaten; it is unlikely for adults to eat their young, but it’s possible if fish are underfed.

    After about 2 months, the fry will be ready to reproduce on their own.

    Is the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Right for You?

    Before you add a endlers livebearers. A complete to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Endlers Livebearers. A Completes need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the endlers livebearers. A complete is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Compares to Similar Species

    Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the endlers livebearers. A complete stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The endlers livebearers. A complete occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the endlers livebearers. A complete or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the endlers livebearers. A complete needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Endlers livebearers are the perfect addition to community tanks lacking in color. These fish are small yet highly active and very forgiving when it comes to beginner’s mistakes. Though they’re recommended for smaller tanks, we recommend giving more space for them to swim and explore.

    Plus, it’s better to have more room than not enough when your fish start to reproduce!

  • 11 Best Goldfish Tank Mates: What Actually Works (Cold-Water Only)

    11 Best Goldfish Tank Mates: What Actually Works (Cold-Water Only)

    Goldfish tank mates are one of the most common questions I get, and after keeping goldfish for years I can tell you the cold-water requirement eliminates most tropical fish right away. I’ve seen people add neon tetras to a goldfish tank and wonder why they die within weeks. Water temperature alone is the culprit. When you stick to true cold-water species, you’ll have a much better experience.

    Goldfish tank mates are one of those topics where a lot of online advice goes wrong. Mostly because people ignore the cold-water requirement. Goldfish do best between 65 and 72ยฐF, which immediately rules out the vast majority of tropical community fish. Neon tetras, guppies, and angelfish are not goldfish tank mates, regardless of what you might read. What actually works are other cold-tolerant species: dojo loaches, white cloud minnows, weather loaches, and of course other goldfish. There’s also the bioload issue. Goldfish are messy fish, and any tank mate needs to tolerate the high-nutrient environment that comes with them. This guide covers the 11 species that genuinely work.

    Choosing Goldfish Tank Mates – What You Need To Know

    When it comes to choosing goldfish tank mates, there are a couple of different factors you need to consider. If you already have goldfish, their happiness should be your number one priority. Of course, you also need to think about the welfare of the other species of fish you plan to add.

    Here are the most important factors to think about:

    Temperament

    Firstly, assuming you already have some pet goldfish, you need tank mates that will not harm or bully them in any way. This goes both ways, of course, so basically, you need to prevent any form of aggression. This means you need to avoid any territorial species of fish that are known to be aggressive or nip fins.

    Size

    The best tank mates for your goldfish are species that are similar-sized and will not be able to eat your goldfish. Goldfish will eat smaller fish that are slow enough to catch, so you need to think about it from both angles.

    Competition

    It’s very important that every animal in the tank has fair access to food. This is especially important when choosing tankmates for some of the slow-swimming fancy goldfish breeds that might not be able to get enough food.

    Parameters & Setup

    Goldfish have certain water parameter preferences, and their tankmates need to be comfortable in the same conditions. All of the following parameters should be considered:

    Author Note: the biggest limiting factor when it comes to tank mates. While a goldfish can adapt to higher temperatures, it’s not ideal. And many tropical fish will struggle with the lower temperatures a goldfish can tolerate.

    11 of the Best

    With all of the factors above in mind, we’re ready to look at some great goldfish tank mates for your aquarium. All of the recommended goldfish tank mates are peaceful fish that is kept in the conditions you should already have in your goldfish tank.

    Check out the video below from our YouTube channel. If you like our content, please subscribe as we upload new videos every week!

    Take note of the following important stats for each of the goldfish tank mates in the list:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Compatibility
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum tank size
    • Care Level
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Swimming Level

    So let’s meet some goldfish tank mates!

    1. Other Types

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches
    • Water Temperature: 65-72ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: China and surrounding Asian countries
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    This might seem like an obvious choice, but it’s important to note that different breeds of goldfish aren’t always compatible with other fish species and even other goldfish.

    There are many amazing goldfish breeds, and they is separated into two categories to make things a little easier:

    Fancy Breeds

    Fancy goldfish are some of the most colorful and ornamental fish breeds in the aquarium hobby. They often have long, flowing fins and strange body features like telescopic eyes and missing dorsal fins.

    These slow-moving goldfish is tough to find tank mates for because they is pretty clumsy and can struggle to get to the food before other fish do. They are often uncomfortable in flowing water because they are poor swimmers. On the plus side, these fish are super peaceful and no threat to their tankmates.

    The following breeds are all known as fancy goldfish:

    Fast-moving (AKA Slim-Bodied)

    Goldfish are not particularly fast fish, but the wild types and other slim-bodied goldfish are stronger swimmers that can even catch other small fish sometimes! These goldfish are less likely to be outcompeted for food by faster tankmates.

    It is best to keep fancy goldfish with similar breeds, and common goldfish with other slim-bodied breeds.

    2. Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese Rice Fish
    Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 61-72ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Swimming Level: bottom, middle, and top

    The Japanese rice fish, or Medaka fish as it is also known, is a great nano cold-water fish that can live with goldfish. These schooling fish are available in a variety of colors, including silver, golden, and orange.

    Japanese rice fish are hardy and make ideal fancy goldfish tank mates. Even though they are small enough to be eaten by hungry goldfish, they are way too fast to be caught.

    3. Dojo Loach

    Dojo Loach
    • Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus
    • Adult Size: Up to 12 inches
    • Compatible with: Most goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-74ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Eastern & Central Asia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Dojo loaches make great goldfish tank mates because they are peaceful and enjoy the same water parameters. These guys get pretty large, however, so you’ll need a tank of at least 55 gallons to give them enough swimming space.

    Dojo loaches are also known as weather loaches. They are bottom dwellers that are happy to feed on the same food sources as your goldfish, which makes them very easy to care for.

    4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

    White Cloud Minnow
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 57-71ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: China
    • Swimming Level: Middle

    White cloud mountain minnows are very popular tank mates for goldfish. These peaceful freshwater fish are also comfortable in relatively cold water. They come in some beautiful varieties, including golden and long-finned forms.

    White cloud mountain minnows are colorful fish that grow to just 1.5 inches or so, which means it is possible for a full-grown goldfish to swallow them whole. It is safer to keep them with slow-moving fancy goldfish that are too clumsy to catch them.

    5. Bristlenose pleco

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 70-78ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Herbivorous
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The bristlenose pleco is a sucker fish that can make a good goldfish tank mate for more experienced keepers. These interesting fish require plenty of driftwood to graze on as well as some hiding places to feel secure.

    Bristlenose plecos is kept in cooler water than other tropical fish, but their temperature preference only overlaps with the goldfish by a few degrees. Regulating the water temperature with a heater is the safest way to keep both species happy if kept together.

    6. Hillstream Loach

    Hillstream Loach
    Hillstream Loach

    A unique-looking loach fish that prefer fast-flowing water. Not picky eaters and readily accept most foods

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Sewellia lineolata
    • Adult Size: 2-2.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Eats algae
    • Origin: Vietnam & Laos
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The hillstream loach must be one of the coolest looking aquarium fish in the hobby. They can make a great tankmate for goldfish, but there is one important catch.

    These fish need good water flow and oxygenation to replicate their natural environment. You could use an internal filter or a small powerhead to create an area in the tank with good flow, but this will mean avoiding weak swimming fancy goldfish breeds.

    7. Rosy Barbs

    Rosy Barb in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 25 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal, India
    • Swimming Level: Middle

    Rosy barbs, like goldfish, are part of the Cyprinid family. These social fish is a little badly behaved if kept on their own or in small numbers. Keep a group of at least 8 to 10 rosy barb fish to ensure they remain peaceful.

    8. Variatus Platy

    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
    • Adult Size: 2-2.8 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Swimming Level: bottom, middle, and top

    The variatus or variable platy fish is another colorful freshwater fish that makes a great tank mate for goldfish. They enjoy cooler water temperatures and they are both peaceful and very easy to keep.

    Platys are livebearers, which means they will produce plenty of fry if you keep both males and females in the same tank. The fry will be eaten by the goldfish, which is good for keeping the population down, but not great if you want your platies to multiply!

    9. Hoplo Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Megalechis thoracata / hoplosternum thoracatum
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Compatible with: All goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The hoplo catfish (video source) is a very hardy and peaceful nocturnal catfish. They are perfectly safe to keep with goldfish, but they can eat small fish like white cloud minnows or rice fish.

    Hoplo catfish love to dig through the substrate, so keep them over fine sand, and expect them to rearrange the floor somewhat. These fish should be kept in a group of at least 5 and be sure to provide some hiding places like driftwood or caves.

    10. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-77ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming Level: middle and top

    Zebra danios are a great little schooling fish species that also do well in cooler temperatures. These peaceful fish can make good goldfish tank mates, even though they are technically small enough to be eaten. Danios are speedy and lively fish, so this isn’t a problem, but keeping them with slower goldfish is the safest bet.

    11. Mystery Snails

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Compatible with: All goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-84ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Eats algae
    • Origin: Brazil, Peru, Paraguay, Bolivia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Mystery snails make excellent tankmates for goldfish. These colorful aquarium snails look great and help to keep your tank clean by eating leftover food scraps. They are hard-working creatures and can even help to keep your glass and substrate clean by feeding on algae!

    Unfortunately, young specimens and other freshwater snails will not be safe from a hungry and curious goldfish. Mystery snails can grow to over two inches, however, which is too big to be on your goldfishes menu!

    Companions To Avoid

    Now that you know eleven of the best goldfish tank mates, let’s run through a few species that you should avoid.

    Tropical Fish

    Goldfish are coldwater fish that do not occur in tropical regions. They prefer to live in a temperature range between about 65ยฐF and 72ยฐF. Any tropical fish that needs warmer water temperatures will not make a suitable tank mate. Here are a few examples

    Aggressive, Territorial & Fin-nipping Fish

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    Goldfish should never be kept with aggressive tank mates. Long goldfish fins are prime targets for fin-nipping fish, and fancy breeds are not strong enough to defend themselves against bullies. In the aquarium hobby, there are a few ‘prime suspects’ to watch out for like:

    You’ll also want to avoid keeping any smaller fish that is dangerous if swallowed like:

    Freshwater Shrimp

    Goldfish are omnivorous, which means they feed on both plant and animal matter. Inverts like cherry shrimp and bamboo shrimp are definitely on the menu, so you can expect a hungry goldfish to see them as a tasty snack.

    They might survive fine with plenty of hiding spaces, but it’s not worth the risk. Even slow-moving fancy goldfish are likely to eat freshwater aquarium shrimp eventually.

    Community Tank Setup

    Now that you know more about suitable goldfish tank mates, let’s take a look at how to set up your own peaceful goldfish community aquarium!

    Introducing Tankmates

    While all the species in this list have been proven to get along great with goldfish, it’s important to understand that fish can have individual personalities and their behavior is complex.

    Make sure you have some sort of backup plan in place in case there’s any unexpected conflict. It’s also a good idea to quarantine any goldfish tank mate for at least 2 weeks before introducing it to your aquarium.

    Tank Size

    The size of your goldfish community aquarium will depend on the number and type of fish you keep. A single goldfish needs a tank of 20 gallons at the very least, and this should be increased by a further 20 gallons for every additional goldfish you keep.

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    White cloud mountain minnows, for example, are nano fish that is kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons, so adding a small school will not have a big effect on the bioload of your goldfish tank. The dojo/weather loach on the other hand is a large fish that should be kept in a tank of at least 55 gallons.

    Heating

    Goldfish prefer cooler water temperatures than tropical fish so they can often be kept in an unheated aquarium. Naturally, this will depend on the temperature in your home, office, or wherever you keep your goldfish tank.

    Author Note: If the room temperature range varies between 65ยฐF and 72ยฐF, you will not need a heater to keep goldfish. You will need to heat or cool the water if the temperature rises or falls below these values, however..

    The temperature preferences of the 10 goldfish tank mates in this list all vary, but they do overlap with the goldfish’s preferred parameters by at least a few degrees in each case. Running a heater can make it a lot easier to keep your aquarium temperature dialed into that ‘happy medium’.

    Filtration & Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfishes create a large bioload in the aquarium, and adding tank mates will put even more pressure on your filtration system. This means excellent filtration is necessary to maintain great water quality.

    Goldfish are not the strongest swimmers, and the fancy breeds in particular will not enjoy a strong water current. A good-quality canister filter is a great option for your goldfish tank, especially if fitted with a spray bar to minimize the water flow and oxygenate the water.

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    Supplementing this with a hang-on back, or sponge filter is a good way to increase your filtration capacity and can also be seen as a great ‘insurance policy’ in case either filter fails.

    Your filtration system will keep your aquarium water looking beautiful while working to convert the ammonia in fish waste and uneaten food into nitrates. These nitrate levels should be monitored regularly using your test kit. At high levels, nitrates become toxic to your fish, so work out a partial water change schedule that keeps your nitrate levels to 20 ppm or less.

    Live Plants

    Growing live plants in your aquarium has a number of great benefits for your goldfish- and they look great too! Unfortunately, goldfish are notorious for eating aquarium plants, so you need to choose your species carefully. Here are a few goldfish-friendly plants that you can grow in your tank:

    Keep in mind that even if your goldfish doesn’t eat your plants, they can uproot them. Plants that do not need to be planted in substrate or float will work best with goldfish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    A layer of aquarium sand or gravel on the bottom of your tank can create a more natural habitat for your fish to forage on. Many goldfish tanks are successfully run without any substrate at all, however. This is a great way to keep your aquarium spotless and clean, but it does not create a very natural environment.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Adding decorations and hardscape features like rocks and driftwood is a great way to add structure to your tank and provide your goldfish and their tank mates with a more natural home. Goldfish with long, flowing fins are vulnerable to tears and damage from sharp objects, so make sure that everything in your aquarium has smooth, rounded edges to avoid any injuries.

    Where To Buy

    This list of goldfish tankmates was chosen to include species that are easy to find. You should be able to find most of these fish down at your local fish store. Alternatively, you can check out trusted online retailers. Some specialty online dealers will have rare breeds available.

    FAQs

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing companion fish for your goldfish doesn’t have to give you sleepless nights. Choose one of the great species listed in this article to create your own peaceful goldfish community tank today!

    Do you keep companion fish with your goldfish? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.