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  • 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    Table of Contents

    Corydoras catfish are my go-to recommendation for anyone asking what to keep on the bottom of a freshwater community tank. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept multiple cory species, and they consistently earn their place. Peaceful, hardy, entertaining to watch as they scoot along the substrate, and compatible with a huge range of tankmates. Two things I always flag before anyone buys: corys need to be kept in groups of at least six of the same species (mixed species groups don’t cut it socially), and they need soft, fine substrate to protect their barbels. Sharp gravel will damage those sensitive whiskers over time, and that’s one of the most common preventable cory health problems I see. This guide covers the 10 most popular species to help you find the right fit.

    Six different corys is six lonely fish. Six of the same cory is a functioning social group.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks

    The most common mistake I see with 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss are adaptable.

    What Are Cory Catfish?

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like

    Cory catfish are small freshwater fish from the Corydoras genus. These shoaling fish are native to South America where an amazing 160+ species are known- with many more probably waiting to be described. They range in size from an inch or so to over 4 inches in length and are solidly built with armor-like scales.

    Cory cats aren’t very colorful, but they are very entertaining to watch as they forage around in the tank, periodically shooting up to the surface to take a breath of air. They love to hang out in groups and should always be kept in schools in the aquarium.

    Interestingly, the first ray of their pectoral fins forms a strong, sharp spine that may be tipped in toxic venom. This is probably an adaptation to make predators think twice about eating them. They are not aggressive at all, but it is best to not handle these fish with bare hands.

    10 Best Cory Catfish Types

    Now that you know a little more about these fish, it’s time to jump right in and get to know the 10 most popular types of cory catfish that you can keep. For each corydoras fish species, I’ll be providing the most important stats that you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more blog detail below. If you like our video, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

    So let’s get started!

    1. Pygmy

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79°F
    • pH: 6.4-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pygmy cory is the perfect species for nano aquariums. These silvery schoolers have a prominent black line along their sides, from their eyes to their tails. Pygmy cories are extremely peaceful, and even a little shy around bigger, more boisterous fish.

    Keep them with other small fish species to bring out the best in them. A group of at least 5 or more will look great and allow them to show their natural schooling behavior.

    2. Longfin Panda

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77°F
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The longfin (video source) is a great variety of the regular panda cory. These schooling fish are an awesome choice for community aquariums.

    The long and flowing caudal fin definitely adds to their appeal. Panda corydoras are very social and peaceful fish that love to hang out in a group, so be sure to order at least 5 of them to really enjoy their natural behavior.

    3. Albino Aeneus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aeneus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-81°F
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These albino corydoras catfish are a pure white version of the bronze cory catfish (Corydoras aeneus). Their pinkish-white coloration makes them really stand out, especially with good lighting and a dark background and substrate.

    Albino bronze corys are solidly built little cory catfish that get a little larger than most other types of corydoras. They are a great choice for a peaceful community setup with other similarly sized tropical fish.

    4. Panda Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10-20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77°F
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The panda cory is one of the most popular species in the hobby. These schooling fish are very recognizable with the black markings on their face, tail, and dorsal fin.

    Panda cories bred in the aquarium trade are adapted to water temperatures in the mid-70s, but in the wild, they can survive in cooler water temperatures down to the upper 60s (Fahrenheit).

    5. Habrosus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras habrosus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Venezuela & Colombia
    • Temperature: 70-79°F
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The habrosus cory is commonly known as the salt and pepper cory. This nano fish species is very similar to the pygmy corydoras but is a little more boldly marked. Another good way to tell them apart is to look at the dark line down their sides – in this species, the line is broken.

    Like Corydoras pygmaeus, these schooling cories are active swimmers that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. I suggest keeping at least 5 of these nano schoolers, but go for 10 or more if you have the room!

    6. Paleatus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras paleatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay
    • Temperature: 72-78°F
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The paleatus, or pepper cory catfish, is a great species of cory for beginners. These affordable fish are commonly known as the peppered corydoras because of their finely blotched pattern.

    Peppered cory catfish should be kept in a small group to bring out the best in their personalities.

    7. Sterba’s

    Corydoras Sterbai
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras sterbai
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-77° F
    • pH: 6.2-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Sterba’s cory is one of my favorite corydoras of all. These stunning little cory catfish are very peaceful and look amazing in a tropical community aquarium.

    Sterba’s cory is a pretty dark species, that is heavily marked with black lines and silver dots. Their most distinctive feature is probably the golden yellow color of their pectoral and pelvic fins.

    8. Simillis Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras similis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79°F
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The similis cory (video source) is one of the best-looking species out there. They have a finely spotted body, with a darker area near the tail.

    These cory catfish types are a great choice for a blackwater amazon biotope, but they will be very happy in a regular planted setup too.

    9. Adolfo Cory-Cat

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aldolfoi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79°F
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Corydoras catfish (video source) are not really known for bright colors, but the adolfo cory is certainly one of the bolder species! These fish are silvery-white with black markings and have a distinctive orange mark on their backs. They are most at home in acidic stained water.

    10. False Julii-Cory

    Corydoras trilineatus
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Suriname
    • Temperature: 72-79°F
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The false julii cory catfish gets its name because it looks a lot like the regular julii corydoras catfish (Corydoras julii). They are striking little fish with silvery bodies covered in interesting plack patterns.

    They are an active species that will entertain you with plenty of antics if kept in a nice school of at least 6.

    Other Species

    There are a huge number of different corydoras species. In fact, with more than 160 types of cory catfish, they form the largest genus of freshwater fish in the world!

    Here’s a list of other common corydoras you might come across in pet stores and the aquarium trade.

    • Julii cory – Corydoras julii
    • Bandit cory – Corydoras metae
    • Three stripe cory – Corydoras trilineatus
    • Leopard cory – Corydoras leopardus
    • Skunk cory – Corydoras arcuatus
    • Dwarf corydoras – Corydoras hastatus
    • Orange laser cory – Corydoras aeneus
    • Agassizi cory – Corydoras agassizi

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for cory catfish is easy. The nano species like pygmy corydoras can thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but many of the larger species will do much better in community tanks of at least 30 gallons or so. As with all aquarium fish, the bigger the tank the better!

    Let’s take a look at how to set up your aquarium for cory catfish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Choosing the right substrate is more important for keeping cories than you might think! These cory catfish have fine whisker-like structures around their mouths that are known as barbels. These barbels are used to forage for food in the substrate, but they can be easily damaged on sharp gravel.

    This is known as barbel erosion and its causes are not universally agreed on. Fine sand is the best substrate choice because this is what the fish are able to dig through without hurting themselves.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    A layer of just half an inch or less is ideal because it will allow the fish to search right down to the bottom of the tank and consume any uneaten food.

    Live Plants

    Growing some floating plants and epiphytes in the tank can enhance the look of your aquarium while improving water quality and oxygenation. The following species are easy to grow and don’t need any special lighting or equipment:

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most types of cory catfish prefer low lighting, but they will also be very happy in a well-lit planted tank, especially if the plants provide some shade. They will also enjoy some hides and caves in the form of ornaments or carefully arranged hardscapes.

    Cory catfish need great water quality, so a good quality water filtration system is essential. Many breeders make use of simple sponge filters, but a canister, hang-on back, or internal power filter is a more aesthetically pleasing option for a beautiful display tank.

    Any filter you select should provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Choose a model that matches your aquarium tank size and is able to process the volume of water about 5 times every hour.

    How To Take Care Of Your Pet

    Cory catfish are simple to care for, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in the fish-keeping hobby. With the right tank setup, good maintenance, and a high-quality diet, these fish can provide you with years of enjoyment in a tropical community tank.

    Read on to learn more about caring for these fun little bottom feeders!

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is especially important when keeping cory catfish. These fish do not tolerate poor water quality well and can be affected by serious conditions like barbel erosion in a neglected tank.

    Stay on top of your maintenance by performing a simple water change each week. Make sure to clean the substrate thoroughly with your gravel vacuum, because this is where your cory catfish forage and hang out.

    You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor the water parameters in your tank. The test results should always read zero parts ammonia and nitrites in a fully cycled aquarium. Nitrates will build up naturally in any stocked aquarium but should be kept to below 20 parts per million.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most cory catfish are bottom dwellers that spend their time digging through the substrate or resting on the sand. They can be very active too and often enjoy swimming up and down the tank at high speed. They are very social creatures and just love shoaling together.

    The nano species like habrosas and pygmy corys are a little different. They are more active swimmers and will spend their time schooling in the midwater levels of the tank.

    Cory catfish are omnivorous and will eat just about any food source you provide. Unfortunately, some inexperienced fishkeepers make the mistake of not feeding them at all. While they do make an awesome part of the clean-up crew, this doesn’t mean they don’t need a high-quality diet.

    Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

    • Flake foods and granules
    • Sinking pellets and wafers
    • Gel foods
    • Frozen foods
    • Live baby brine shrimp
    • Black worms

    Breeding

    Cory catfish can be bred at home with a little planning and preparation. You’ll need a separate breeding tank of about ten gallons or so with a simple sponge filter for the best results. You should put in a spawning mop of synthetic wool or a live plant like java moss where the females can deposit their eggs.

    A group of 2 females and four males is a good bet and they should be well-conditioned after moving them into the breeding tank. The males are a little smaller than the females and have more pointed fins. Feeding them a high-quality diet including plenty of live/frozen food will get the fish ready to spawn.

    Frequent water changes are necessary and replacing the old water with slightly cooler water will often trigger spawning. The spawning behavior is interesting to watch, with the pair forming a T-shape. The eggs are laid on the spawning mop or even just the aquarium glass.

    Remove the adults once eggs have been laid. They should hatch after about 5 days and will need to be fed a diet of micro worms once they reach the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    All types of cory catfish are the perfect fish for community tanks because they are just so peaceful. Most species can be kept with adult shrimp, but you can expect juvenile shrimp to be snacked on.

    Cory catfish should only be kept with other small fish that won’t bully them, or try to eat them. They can be kept with other bottom-dwelling species, but take care not to overstock your tank with bottom-feeders. Let’s take a look at some other fish that can be kept with corydoras:

    Where To Buy

    Corydoras are such popular fish that you can find them at most pet shops and aquarium stores. There are some great online retailers like Flipaquatics that have made a name for themselves by selling high-quality stock and making the delivery process super easy and safe for the fish too.

    FAQs

    How many species are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many species of Corydoras are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many Corydoras should be kept together?

    Corydoras catfish are social fish that love to hang out in groups. In nature they can often be found in huge shoals, so the more you can keep without overstocking your tank, the better.

    Is 4 of these enough?

    Ideally, you should keep at least 6 cory catfish of the same species together. They will survive just fine in a group of 4 but you might not see them performing all their natural behaviors. They are a natural schooling species.

    What is the biggest size?

    The banded cory (Scleromystax barbatus) is the largest of all the cory catfish types. They might not be a true corydoras species, but they used to be considered a member of the same genus. These beautiful fish can grow to 4 inches in length and have awesome markings.

    Are they good for beginners?

    Cory catfish are great fish for beginners. They are reasonably priced, easy to find at most pet stores and work great as a community fish in many modern aquariums.

    Expert Take

    Corydoras are one of my favorite fish to recommend because they consistently reward keepers who actually meet their needs. The species matters less than people think. The group size matters more. A school of 8 in the right setup will be more active, healthy, and visible than any species kept as a trio. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner. Most corydoras species are beginner-friendly with standard water parameters. Group size and soft substrate are the keys to success.

    Hard Rule: Corydoras must be kept in groups of 6 or more, preferably with their own species. A pair or trio will hide, stop foraging, and deteriorate over months. Group size is non-negotiable.

    The Reality of Keeping Corydoras

    Corydoras are deceptively active when kept in appropriate numbers. A school of 8 in a clean, planted tank is constantly moving, foraging, and investigating the substrate. A pair in an empty tank just sits in a corner looking miserable. The difference is entirely about group size and setup. They are also sensitive to sharp gravel. Their barbels will erode on rough substrate, which you may not notice until they stop foraging.

    Is the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Right for You?

    Before you add a 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    Avoid If:

    • You want to keep just one or two corydoras. They need groups of 6+ to thrive
    • You have sharp gravel or coarse substrate that will damage their barbels over time
    • You expect them to fully clean a tank’s waste. They are foragers, not vacuums
    • You keep aggressive tank mates that chase or outcompete them for food at the bottom

    How the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Cory catfish are amazing pets for tropical freshwater aquariums. They stay small, are sweet-natured, and help to clean up uneaten food from their messy tank mates! Choosing the perfect species can be tough with all the options, but the ten fish in this list are all worth considering for your aquarium.

    What are your favorite types of cory catfish? Let me know in the comments below!

  • 11 Best Types of Rasboras: Schooling Fish for Planted and Nano Tanks

    11 Best Types of Rasboras: Schooling Fish for Planted and Nano Tanks

    Rasboras are one of those fish families I keep coming back to after 25 years in this hobby. They’re diverse, peaceful, and ideally suited to the planted nano tanks that have become so popular. The harlequin rasbora is the most iconic. a lot of hobbyists’ first schooling fish. but the family includes chili rasboras, lambchop rasboras, galaxy rasboras (celestial pearl danios), and more, each bringing something distinct to a planted setup. One thing I always mention to people getting started with rasboras: most prefer softer, slightly acidic water. Many will adapt to neutral conditions, but they genuinely thrive when the parameters reflect their natural blackwater habitat. This guide covers 11 of the best species worth considering.

    What Are Rasboras?

    Rasboras are freshwater fish from the Cyprinidae family. That family might sound familiar because it is the same group that includes other well-known aquarium fish like barbs, goldfish, and koi.

    Many of the tiny species were originally placed in the Rasbora genus, butscientists have since split them up into a few different groups. Most of the species in the aquarium trade are from South and Southeast Asia where they live in streams, ponds, and lakes.

    Rasboras are some of the smallest fish species known, and most aquarium species grow to just an inch or two in length. These fish are awesome in nano aquariums, and their peaceful temperaments and great colors have made them firm favorites among fishkeepers all over the world!

    11 Best Types Of Rasboras For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little bit more about rasboras, it’s time to meet 11 great species that you can keep! Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you enjoy our content, please make sure to subscribe!

    I’ve included the most important information to help you choose the best species for your tank. Take note of the following stats for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    So let’s get started!

    1. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (20 gallons recommended)
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-82°F
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Harlequin rasbora is an amazing schooling fish for community fish tanks. These fish have awesome black triangular markings on their sides, which contrasts with their golden orange color.

    Harlequin rasboras are one of the most popular aquarium species sold today because they are so peaceful and easy to care for. Keep a group of 8 or more to see the natural schooling behavior of these neat little fish.

    2. Dwarf Emerald

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys erythromicron
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 68-75°F
    • pH: 7.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The dwarf emerald rasbora (video source) is an awesome nano fish for cool water aquariums. They look very similar to galaxy rasboras/ celestial pearl danios and are actually pretty closely related. These tiny fish are really peaceful and don’t get much over an inch in size.

    They are can be shy by nature but will be most comfortable and active in a well-planted aquarium. A group of 6 or more dwarf emerald rasboras would be great in a species-only nano tank, but they can also be kept with other peaceful fish of a similar size.

    3. Chili Rasbora/ Mosquito

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Chili rasboras (video source) are one of the smallest fish species in the fishkeeping hobby and are also known as the mosquito rasbora. For such a small species, these little guys are really adaptable to different conditions, but they do need excellent water quality to thrive.

    Chili rasbora fish do best when kept on their own but they can be kept with other small species that won’t out-compete them for food.

    4. Blue Axelrodi

    • Scientific Name: Sundadanio axelrodi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live/frozen food
    • Origin: Indonesia, Borneo, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 73-79°F
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue variety of the axelrodi rasbora (video source) is true schooling fish that should be kept in large groups of 20 or more to really shine.

    These tiny fish don’t always accept prepared foods, so be sure to keep a supply of live or frozen foods like daphnia or grindal worms to keep them well-fed.

    5. Spotted/ Dwarf

    • Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The spotted, or dwarf rasbora (video source) is another tiny species that is just perfect for a planted nano tank. This colorful fish has a bright red gill cover and three black spots on its orange body.

    The ideal tank mates for dwarf rasboras are shrimp, snails, and other peaceful nano fish. Keep at least ten of these social schooling fish to keep them confident and active.

    6. Merah

    • Scientific Name: Boraras merah
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The merah rasbora (video source) is another diminutive species for all the nano fish lovers out there! They are also known as the phoenix rasbora.

    This species is very similar to the chili rasbora but is generally less colorful. Like other rasboras, these fish do best in groups because they prefer to school together.

    7. Black Harlequin

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-82°F
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The black harlequin rasbora is a dark variant of the standard harlequin rasbora. This popular species has been a favorite amongst aquarists for over a century, and it’s easy to see why!

    Black harlequin rasboras have the same care needs as the regular species.

    8. Green Kubotai

    • Scientific Name: Microdevario kubotai
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, flakes, and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
    • Temperature: 68-80°F
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The green kubotsai rasbora (video source) has an amazing neon green body color. These tiny shoaling fish are a perfect choice for a planted aquarium.

    They can be kept in a species-only tank in groups of 8 or more, or as part of a peaceful nano community.

    9. Exclamation Point

    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.5-0.7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The exclamation point rasbora (video source) is another incredible nano fish from the Boraras genus. If the word Boraras sounds strangely familiar, that’s because this name is an anagram of the word rasbora.

    The exclamation point is one of the smaller rasbora species that you would come across at just half an inch or so in length. It gets its name from the combination of a line and a dot on the fish’s body, which make a perfect exclamation point!

    10. Emerald Eye

    • Scientific Name: Brevibora dorsiocellata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Thailand, Sumatra, Malaysia,
    • Temperature: 68-77°F
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The emerald eye rasbora is a great-looking schooling fish. These fish have beautiful iridescent green markings from their eyes right down to their tails.

    These small rasboras are very peaceful and stay small, making them an ideal choice for a soft water community setup.

    11. Scissortail

    <a href=Scissortail Rasbora in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-552942″/>
    • Scientific Name: Rasbora trilineata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73-77°F
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The scissortail rasbora grows to a size of 6 inches, making it a giant of the rasbora world! Scissortail rasboras get their name from the interesting way they twitch their caudal fin.

    Like the other rasboras, these schooling fish do best in groups. Scissortail rasboras are a large and active species, so naturally, they need a fairly large tank to have enough room.

    Other Species

    Just in case 11 species wasn’t enough, here are a few more bonus rasboras that you can look out for!

    • Galaxy rasbora/ Celestial pearl danioDanio margaritatus
    • Blackline rasbora-Rasbora borapetensis
    • Clown rasbora-Rasbora kalochroma
    • Brilliant rasbora- Rasbora einthovenii

    Tank Setup

    Rasboras make great nano fish for small aquariums. Even though they may be tiny, they tend to be very active fish, so a minimum tank size of about 10 gallons is recommended for most of the smaller species.

    Substrate & Decor

    Sand or gravel makes a fine substrate for most rasboras, although a complete aqua soil is often a better choice for planted tanks because rasboras do best in aquariums with abundant aquatic plant growth.

    Adding some driftwood and plenty of live plants will help these fish feel more at home in the aquarium. Plants like Java ferns, cryptocorynes, and amazon swords are great choices because they are easy to grow and don’t need powerful lighting.

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    Lighting & Filtration

    Specialized lighting is not necessary for your rasbora aquarium. While bright light is great for a planted tank, it’s not necessarily the best choice for these fish.

    Most rasboras prefer fairly dim lighting in the aquarium. Growing some red root floaters or other species of floating plants is a good idea because it helps maintain the dim light these fish prefer.

    Rasboras are small fish that prefer still or slow-flowing water. A simple sponge filter will provide adequate filtration for most species.

    For a more compact and aesthetic option, a hang-on back or internal power filter can also be used. Just be sure to set up a prefilter sponge over the intake to prevent any tiny fish from getting sucked in.

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    Whichever filter you prefer, make sure it is capable of excellent mechanical and biological filtration, especially if you are keeping your rasboras in a nano aquarium.

    Care

    Now that you know how to set up a great home for your fish, it’s time to learn how to keep them healthy. Rasboras are pretty easy to care for if you can maintain good water quality and feed them a quality diet. Choosing the right tankmates is also very important since these fish are so small.

    Read on to learn about all of these things and more!

    Aquarium maintenance

    Most rasboras require great water quality, and that’s why regular aquarium maintenance is so important. This might not be everyone’s idea of a good time, but it’s really not such a bad deal.

    Get into the habit of performing a partial water change every week, especially if you keep a nano aquarium. You can use your test kit to monitor the nitrate levels- that way you’ll know if you’re changing enough water.

    Use a gravel vacuum to suck out any solid waste particles from the substrate and give your aquarium glass a good clean with your algae scraper. Once you’re done, you can sit back and admire a beautiful tank with happy rasboras for the rest of the week!

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most species of rasboras available in the aquarium trade are considered micro predators. In their natural freshwater habitats, they feed on tiny crustaceans and other invertebrates.

    In the home aquarium, these fish prefer to feed on frozen and live foods like brine shrimp and daphnia. Most species will feed on dried foods like fish flakes and tropical granules, however. A good food to try is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano formula.

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    Breeding

    Breeding rasboras is not very difficult. In fact, healthy adult fish will breed freely in many home aquariums. These fish produce eggs on a regular basis, so don’t be too surprised if you see some tiny fry in your tank!

    Rasboras aren’t that big on eating eggs, but there are no guarantees that the eggs will be left to hatch. Fortunately, the eggs hatch after just a day or so, and the fry begin swimming 2 or 3 days after that. They will have the best chance of survival if your tank is heavily planted, and contains only rasboras.

    Setting up a small breeding tank will give you a much higher success rate. A small tank with a sponge filter, some floating plants, and some broadleaved plants is ideal for this purpose. Place a conditioned pair into the tank and, with some luck, the female will lay some eggs on the underside of a leaf.

    After the pair have finished breeding, they should be moved back to their regular display tank. The fry grow very fast but must be fed on tiny food like infusoria until they are able to progress to baby brine shrimp.

    Tankmates

    Rasboras make great fish for community tanks because they are so peaceful. Most rasbora species will get along perfectly with similarly sized community nano fish, as long as they all enjoy the same water parameters.

    Let’s take a look at some ideal tank mates:

    The smallest species from the Boraras genus tend to do best in a species-only tank. They can, however, be kept with inverts like:

    Where to Buy

    Some of the different rasbora species are very common in the aquarium trade. Your local fish store probably sells a few popular species, and it’s always worth asking if they can track down something they don’t have in stock.

    These days the greatest selection of species can be found online. Quality retailers like Flipaquatics.com are worth checking out because they stock a wide range of great nano fish.

    FAQs

    Will different they school together?

    Rasboras are peaceful, social fish that will enjoy schooling with other, similar-sized species. It is best to keep at least 6 individuals of each species in your aquarium, even though your different rasboras will probably school together.

    Is a rasbora a tetra?

    Rasboras and tetras are both small schooling fish, but they are not actually related. Most tetras come from South America, while rasboras come from South and Southeast Asia.

    What type of fish is a rasbora?

    Rasboras are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. They are mostly very small schooling fish that feed on tiny organisms.

    What is the smallest?

    The exclamation point rasbora (Boraras urophthalmoides) is the smallest rasbora species you are likely to find in the aquarium hobby. There is an even smaller species, however. The closely related Boraras micros maxes out at just half an inch long!

    Can different types live together?

    You can keep different species of rasboras in the same tank. Make sure that the different rasboras enjoy the same water parameters like pH and temperature, however.

    The different Boraras species are closely related and might hybridize together. Avoid keeping them in the same tank, especially if you plan on breeding your fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Rasboras are probably the best nano schooling fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish are small, peaceful, colorful, and pretty easy to care for. If you’re looking for a fish to put into a planted nano tank, look no further!

    Which is your favorite rasbora species? Let me know in the comments below!


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish: The Complete Guide (No Heater Required)

    20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish: The Complete Guide (No Heater Required)

    Table of Contents

    Most beginners assume every aquarium needs a heater. but some of the best fish in the hobby actually prefer cool water, and a few will suffer if kept too warm. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen countless coldwater fish kept in heated tropical tanks because it’s “convenient.” Short-term they look fine. Long-term they’re stressed, their immune systems are compromised, and they live a fraction of their potential lifespan. In this guide I’m covering 20 coldwater aquarium fish I’d genuinely recommend, with honest notes on the temperature range each species actually needs to thrive. not just survive.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)

    The most common mistake I see with 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.

    What Is A Coldwater Aquarium Fish?

    Cold water aquarium fish can survive in temperatures of 70°F or lower. They are species that come from the subtropical and temperate parts of the world where the water isn’t always warm.

    Unlike most tropical fish, cold-water fish do not need a heater to survive in the home aquarium. These fish are at home in the same temperatures that most people are, so the natural room temperature of your home is usually fine for them.

    The Advantages

    Keeping coldwater fish can have some real benefits for aquarists and the fish themselves. Let’s take a look at some of the reasons you might choose to keep cold-water fish over tropical species.

    You Don’t Need A Heater

    Not needing a heater to keep the water temperature in the comfortable range has a few benefits that you might not realize.

    Firstly, you don’t need to buy an aquarium heater or pay for the energy they use. In this hobby, every cent counts right? You can also think of this as a more eco-friendly option.

    Heaters can be unsightly too, so you’re also able to create a more natural-looking aquarium, and reduce the amount of hardware and electrical cords you need to hide.

    It Can Be Safer

    Power interruptions are a fact of life for many people. With an unheated tank, you don’t need to panic when the power goes out.

    Even when the lights stay on, aquarium heaters can still malfunction. This is another thing you don’t have to worry about with an unheated tank.

    Less Cleaning

    Algae thrive in warm water, and this can be a real challenge in planted tropical fish tanks. Coldwater can be a real blessing in heavily planted aquariums and aquascapes because the plants and glass are less likely to be covered.

    15 Best Tanks

    Now that you know what a cold-water fish is, it’s time to get to know some of the best species for your aquarium. I’ll be listing some important stats for each species, so you can make sure you’re making the right choice. These are:

    • The fish’s scientific name
    • Its size when fully grown
    • How easy it is to care for
    • The minimum suitable tank size
    • The fish’s temperament
    • What the fish eats
    • Where it comes from
    • The water temperature the fish prefers
    • It’s swimming level in the aquarium

    So let’s meet them now! You can see our YouTube Video below from our channel and also follow along in our blog post:

    Let’s meet our fish!

    1. Japanese Rice

    • Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live & frozen foods
    • Origin: Eastern Asia
    • Water Temperature: 64-71°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    The Japanese rice fish or Medaka fish is a great coldwater species for nano tanks. They get their name because they are often found living wild in rice paddies.

    The wild type is not the most colorful fish out there, but they are amazing to watch. A golden variety, as well as some genetically modified glowing varieties, have also been developed if you’re looking for more color. These tiny schooling fish will be happiest if kept in groups of 8 or more.

    2. Bloodfin Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Aphyocharax anisitsi
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive, nips fins
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live & frozen foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay
    • Water Temperature: 64-82°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The bloodfin tetra is a great schooling fish for unheated aquariums. Their blood-red fins give these silvery fish a striking look in the aquarium.

    They are very hardy fish that are adaptable to a wide range of water temperatures, which means you don’t have to worry if it gets a little warmer than usual. These long-lived tetras regularly survive for over 5 years, especially if kept in groups of 6 or more.

    3. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: China
    • Water Temperature: 58-72°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    White cloud mountain minnows are one of the best cold-water fish in the aquarium hobby. These schooling fish get their name from the White cloud mountain in China1, where they can be found living wild.

    These peaceful fish are available in some awesome varieties including gold and long-finned types. They prefer cooler water temperatures and are easy to care for. The white cloud mountain minnow is a great choice for a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.

    Mark’s Experience: White Cloud Mountain Minnows

    White clouds are easy mode, and I mean that as the highest compliment. I’ve kept them and the thing most guides get wrong is recommending a heater. These fish genuinely do better at room temperature. In my tanks, 65–68°F is their sweet spot. Heating them up to tropical temperatures actually stresses them and shortens their lifespan. If you have an unheated room-temperature tank and you want a fish that will thrive rather than just survive, white cloud mountain minnows are my top pick.

    4. Panda Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy-moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed sinking dried foods, live and frozen supplements
    • Origin: Peru
    • Water Temperature: 68-77°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Panda corydoras get their name from their bold black and white markings and black eyestripe. These adorable catfish are great for cold water aquariums, even though commercially bred individuals are less fussy about water temperatures than wild-caught fish.

    Panda cory catfish are very peaceful and social bottom feeders that will be most confident in a school of 6 or more.

    5. Guppies

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Adult Size: 1-2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: South America and the Caribbean
    • Water Temperature: 63-82°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Guppies are one of the most popular pet fish on the planet. They are very adaptable and do just as well as cold-water fish as they do in a community tank with tropical fish. These peaceful fish have been bred to display an amazing variety of colors.

    Guppies are livebearers, which means they give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. It is best to keep only one sex if you don’t want these fish to multiply in your aquarium.

    6. Endler’s Livebearer

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Venezuela, South America
    • Water Temperature: 64-84°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Endler’s livebearers are another awesome nano species for coldwater aquariums. These tiny fish look very similar to guppies, but they stay much smaller at under 2 inches in length. They are not cold-water fish specifically, but they are very hardy and will do great in an unheated tank in a warm home.

    7. Bristle Nose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Herbivore, feed algae wafers & vegetables
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Water Temperature: 70-79°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The bristle nose pleco is an unusual fish that is very useful for eating algae. Most people assume these fish can only be kept in tropical aquariums, but they are comfortable in most unheated aquariums and many aquarists have even managed to keep them with goldfish.

    Bristlenose plecos are vegetarian fish that need plenty of driftwood to graze on. They are such efficient algae eaters that you’ll need to supplement their diet with spirulina wafers and veggies to keep them well fed. The pleco pictured above is the Albino breed.

    8. Dojo Loach

    • Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus
    • Adult Size: 6-12 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed sinking dried foods
    • Origin: Central & Eastern Asia
    • Water Temperature: 59-77°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The dojo loach is a great coldwater fish species for larger aquariums. Some aquarists even keep these interesting loach fish in outdoor ponds with Koi.

    The dojo loach is also known as the weather loach because they become more active when the barometric pressure changes. These interesting fish can reach up to 12 inches in length, which means they should be kept in a freshwater aquarium that holds at least 55 gallons.

    9. Rosy Barb

    https://youtu.be/HJmNdqwZE_Y
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Water Temperature: 60-75°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Rosy barbs are another great species for unheated tanks. These beautiful fish have large, highly reflective scales and come in some amazing varieties like the long-fins and neons (video source).

    They are social cyprinids that like to swim in larger schools, so pick up a group of 10 or more if possible. These schooling fish are easy to care for, but not the best choice for planted tanks because they tend to nibble on leaves.

    10. Gold Barb

    <a href=Gold Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-552736″/>
    • Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Care Level: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: China, Vietnam, Taiwan
    • Water Temperature: 61-75°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater

    Gold barbs are a great choice for cold water tanks with lower water temperatures. These social fish are also known as the Chinese barb fish and they should be kept in a school of at least 8.

    Although wild gold barbs are greenish, the fish in the aquarium trade have been bred to have an amazing golden body color with dark blotches and reddish eyes and fins. A cool albino form is also available from time to time.

    11. Axolotl

    Wild Type Axolotl
    • Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum
    • Adult Size: 6-12 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed pellets, frozen or live food
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Water Temperature: 57-68°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The axolotl is also known as the Mexican walking fish, but did you know that these amazing animals are not really fish at all? Axolotls are actually amphibians, just like frogs and salamanders! These creatures make amazing and unusual pets for freshwater aquariums.

    Axolotls spend their whole lives underwater and do best when kept on their own. This is because they have a tendency to eat nano fish or even each other! They need cool water and are more active in low lighting because they are nocturnal.

    12. Fancy Goldfish

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: China and Eastern Asia
    • Water Temperature: 65-72°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Goldfish are more than just feeder fish. The fancy goldfish is one of the best cold-water fish and one of the most popular pets in the world!

    These fish are available in a huge range of different breeds, including amazing fish like orandas, ranchus, and bubble-eyes. Fancy goldfish can reach over 8 inches in length, and they need a larger tank than you might think, so don’t be tempted to set them up in a goldfish bowl from your local fish store.

    Mark’s Experience: Fancy Goldfish

    I’ve kept both common goldfish and the hardier fancy varieties (orandas and ryukins specifically). The biggest mistake I see new keepers make is underestimating space requirements. A common goldfish needs 30+ gallons and will outgrow a 10-gallon in months. Even fancy varieties need more room than their small size at purchase implies. The other non-negotiable in my tanks: double filtration. Goldfish are heavy bioload producers, so I run two filters on every goldfish tank. Get that right and they’re surprisingly easy to keep.

    13. Sunset Variatus

    Sunset Variatus
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
    • Adult Size: 2-2.8 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Water Temperature: 68-79°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    The sunset variatus is another great little livebearer for a cold water tank. This morph of the variable platy has amazing red and yellow colors, just like the sky at sunset. Sunset variatus prefer higher pH water conditions, just like many other livebearers.

    14. Celestial Pearl Danio

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Myanmar, Thailand
    • Water Temperature: 68-78°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The celestial pearl danio is an awesome nano fish species that looks amazing in a heavily planted tank. These fish are also known as galaxy rasboras or just CPDs for short.

    They are fairly timid fish that prefer cooler water temperatures. Celestial pearl danios can be kept with other fish, provided their tank mates are peaceful and stay small.

    15. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Water Temperature: 70-82°F
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    The zebra danio is another great cold-water fish that is really underrated in the aquarium hobby. Zebra danios are peaceful and hardy fish that are easy to care for. Zebra danios are fast swimming, active danio fish that are amazing in community tanks and get along with many fish.

    Mark’s Experience: Zebra Danios

    I’ve kept zebra danios and one thing I always tell people: they need more space than the standard advice suggests. These fish are built for speed and they move constantly, in every direction. That frenetic energy can stress slower or more timid tankmates. I run them in a 20-gallon long minimum, not a 10-gallon, and the extra horizontal swimming room makes a noticeable difference in how settled the whole tank looks. For an unheated setup, a longer footprint is your friend.

    16. Paradise

    Paradise Fish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: South and East Asia
    • Water Temperature: 50-71°F
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    The paradise fish is also known as the paradise gourami or the Chinese fighting fish. These beautiful fish are related to betta fish and have all the colors of a tropical species, but are happy in an unheated tank.

    Paradise fish have a reputation for being aggressive fish and do best in a species-only tank. Keep a single male and 2 or more females if you plan on keeping a group of these feisty fish.

    17. Mosquito

    Mosquito Fish in Pond
    • Scientific Name: Gambusia affinis
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: USA and Mexico
    • Water Temperature: 50-84°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    The mosquito fish is a small fish species that is usually kept outdoors in ponds as a mosquito larvae control. They can actually make a really fascinating cold water pet fish, however.

    One thing to note is that mosquito fish can be pretty aggressive and are known to nip the fins of their tank mates. They are very hardy fish and make an interesting choice for an unheated nano tank.

    18. Asian Stone Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Hara jerdoni
    • Adult Size: 1.2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen foods
    • Origin: Bangladesh, India
    • Water Temperature: 64-75°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The Asian stone catfish (video source) is a unique little nocturnal fish for unheated aquariums. They are not super active fish and make a great choice for a nano tank.

    The Asian stone catfish can also be kept in a community tank as long as its tank mates are also small and peaceful. Feeding them at night is recommended because they are clumsy and the other fish can easily out-compete them for slow sinking food like frozen brine shrimp.

    19. Rosy Red Minnows

    https://youtu.be/JFi6xF2fVkI
    • Scientific Name: Pimephales promelas
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Canada, USA, Mexico
    • Water Temperature: 50-78°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Rosy red minnows are more often used as bait and feeder fish than kept as pets. That’s a shame because they are great-looking fish that are perfect for cold water tanks! Rosy red minnows can be kept in a huge range of water temperatures and are even good for ponds outdoors.

    20. Pygmy Sunfish

    Evergladei Male
    • Scientific Name: Elassoma evergladei
    • Adult Size: 1.4 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, shy
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen food
    • Origin: USA
    • Water Temperature: 50-72°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater

    The pygmy sunfish (picture source) is a cute little fish that is native to the Southeastern United States. The breeding males have stunning iridescent blue and black colors.

    Pygmy sunfish are not usually seen in fish stores, although they do great in unheated aquariums. These tiny fish are actually more popular with fish keepers over in Europe than in their native North America.

    ASD Coldwater Fish Scorecard

    After 25 years keeping and studying these fish, here’s how I rate all 20 species across four dimensions: ease of care, visual appeal, community safety, and availability from quality suppliers.

    SpeciesEase (0-3)Visual (0-3)Community (0-2)Availability (0-2)ASD Score
    White Cloud Mountain Minnow32229/10 ⭐
    Guppy332210/10 🏆
    Panda Corydoras332210/10 🏆
    Endler’s Livebearer33219/10
    Bloodfin Tetra32218/10
    Rosy Red Minnow32218/10
    Zebra Danio32128/10
    Fancy Goldfish23128/10
    Bristlenose Pleco22228/10
    Rosy Barb23128/10
    Sunset Variatus23218/10
    Celestial Pearl Danio23117/10
    Common Goldfish22127/10
    Gold Barb23117/10
    Dojo Loach22217/10
    Asian Stone Catfish22217/10
    Japanese Rice Fish21216/10
    Paradise Fish13015/10
    Mosquito Fish21025/10
    Axolotl13015/10
    Pygmy Sunfish13105/10
    ASD Coldwater Fish Scorecard: Mark Valderrama, 25+ years fishkeeping experience

    Scoring: Ease (0–3) + Visual (0–3) + Community (0–2) + Availability (0–2) = 10 max. Ratings based on Mark Valderrama’s 25+ years of direct fishkeeping experience and community observations.

    Coldwater Tank Setup

    Setting up a coldwater tank is just the same as setting up a tropical tank, only you won’t be using a heater. If you live in a tropical climate, however, you might need to take some steps to manage the water temperatures.

    Managing Your Tank In Warm Climates

    When summer comes along and temperatures in the house begin to rise, keeping your cool water fish comfortable can be tough! Here’s a list of 6 great tips on keeping your fish cool:

    1. Monitor the temperature

    The most important tool for managing the temperature in your cold water aquarium is a thermometer. A cost-effective solution is to use a simple glass thermometer and keep an eye on it whenever it feels a little warm in your home.

    An even better option is to use a digital thermometer with a programmable alarm. This way, you can set the device to alert you when the water temperature rises beyond a certain point. Pretty smart!

    2. Use minimal equipment

    Knowing the actual temperature in your tank is one thing, but what can you do to keep the temperature in the safe range for your fish?

    The first thing to do is switch off or remove any unnecessary equipment in the tank. Things like lights and powerheads give off small amounts of heat and can be switched off temporarily without any harm.

    It’s not only the hardware inside your tank that can warm up the water, however. Computers, televisions, refrigerators, and all sorts of appliances can warm up the air around your aquarium.

    3. Choose the right lighting

    You might not realize it, but some aquarium lights produce plenty of heat. Not all types of aquarium lighting produce the same amount of heat, however.

    Switch to LED lighting if your lights are creating heat. This is the best option for keeping your coldwater fish comfortable.

    4. Turn on the AC

    The temperature of the water in your aquarium is directly affected by the temperature of the air in the room. You can keep your aquarium water temperature down by keeping the room cool with air conditioning. This might not be the most energy-efficient method, but it is very effective! Another alternative is using a mobile AC system.

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    5. Choose the right location

    Not all areas of your home have the same temperature. The north side of your house will usually be cooler than the south if you live in America, Europe, or anywhere north of the equator.

    Heat always rises, so the coolest part of your home will usually be downstairs or in the basement. Direct sunlight can heat the water in your tank, even if the air temperature is cool. Never set up an aquarium where it will receive direct sunlight.

    6. Cool the water

    You will need to cool down the water in your tank if you’ve followed all the tips above, and the water temperature is still rising too much.

    The best way to do this is to use an aquarium chiller. These devices are not cheap, but they are very effective because they refrigerate the water. Aquarium chillers can be programmed to maintain a stable, constant temperature of your choice.

    A less reliable, but much cheaper option is to run an airstone and an aquarium fan on the water surface. This works best in a tank with no hood. A mesh screen might be necessary though because many fish species can jump out of their tank.

    Whichever method you use, make sure you change the temperature gradually to avoid stressing your fish.

    Filtration

    All aquariums should have good quality filtration to keep the water quality safe, and the tank looking beautiful. Coldwater tanks are no exception, and you can use the same varieties of aquarium filters as you would in a tropical setup.

    An air-powered sponge filter is a great option because they do not create any heat and actually help to cool the water slightly. An external canister filter will provide superior filtration, however, and has the added benefit of not cluttering up the tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    Regular tank maintenance is really important for keeping your coldwater fish healthy and happy. A nice clean tank also looks great, so you can enjoy watching your fish even more. Here’s what you’ll need to do:

    Testing

    Being able to test your water parameters is really important for maintaining your fish tank. Firstly, testing will show you the pH and hardness of your water, which is very important for most species.

    Testing for ammonia and nitrite will also allow you to determine whether your aquarium is cycled or not, and whether it’s safe to start introducing fish to a new tank.

    Lastly, regular testing for nitrate levels is necessary to work out the perfect maintenance schedule for your tank.

    Aquarium test kits are super easy to use, just make sure you buy a kit that can measure the following parameters:

    • pH
    • GH
    • KH
    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate

    Water Changes

    In a healthy, cycled aquarium, beneficial bacteria break down harmful chemicals known as ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate is a lot less toxic, but in large concentrations, this compound can still be dangerous.

    Growing plenty of live plants can help to lower the level of nitrates in your tank, but the best way is to physically remove them by replacing some of the water. Use your test kit to measure the nitrate in your water. Ideally, you should try to keep the nitrate levels below 20 parts per million.

    The process of performing a partial water change is simple. Start by preparing some fresh water. Use a water conditioner to neutralize any chemicals and allow the water to reach the same temperature as your tank water. You will need the same amount of water as you plan on removing.

    Next, suck out water from the bottom of the tank with your gravel vacuum and into a bucket or drain. This will remove all the waste particles that have settled on the substrate.

    All you have to do now is add the new water to the tank. Pour it in slowly to avoid stirring up the substrate and uprooting any plants.

    Other Maintenance Tasks

    You’ll also want to clean the algae off your aquarium glass from time to time. You can do this whenever necessary, but I suggest doing this just before your water change. That way you can suck up any loose algae!

    You’ll also need to rinse out your aquarium filter media from time to time. There are colonies of beneficial bacteria that live in the filter media of a cycled freshwater aquarium. They are sensitive to tap water, so remember to clean your filter media in the water you have removed from the tank.

    Setting Up A Coldwater Community Tank

    You can set up an awesome unheated community tank, even though the options are a little more limited. Read on for some handy tips to help you stock your cold water tank.

    Choosing Tank Mates

    Choosing the right tank mates is essential to ensure that all your pets get along in the aquarium. The most important factors when selecting tank mates are:

    • Temperature compatibility
    • Other parameters like pH and hardness
    • Size and aggression levels

    Live Plants

    Coldwater aquariums are not only for fish. You can also grow a variety of awesome live plants in an unheated tank. The following beginner live plant species are all great options:

    You’ll need to read up on the needs of each plant species to learn how to care for them because their needs do vary.

    What About Freshwater Tank Shrimp And Snails?

    The good news is that you can keep freshwater invertebrates in a coldwater tank too! Not all inverts like cool water, however.

    The following species are safe bets:

    • Cherry shrimp (Neocardinia) – Minimum temperature 65°F
    • Caridina shrimp – Minimum temperature 64°F
    • Amano shrimp – Minimum temperature 64°F
    • Malaysian trumpet snails – Minimum temperature 65°F
    • Japanese trapdoor snail – Minimum temperature 68°F

    Shrimp and snails are great because they help to keep your aquarium clean. Shrimp don’t always make the best tank mates for community tanks, however. Some cold-water species like paradise fish will probably see your shrimp as a tasty snack!

    Where To Buy

    You can usually find the more popular coldwater species at your local fish stores. Another great place to shop aquarium fish is online, especially if you’re looking for specific fish species.

    FAQs

    Can a cold water tank be too cold?

    All fish species have an ideal temperature range where they are most comfortable. If the water in your tank gets too cold, your fish will be under stress and might not survive.

    Do you need a heater for cold water tanks?

    Coldwater fish only need a heater in very cold environments. In cold climates, an aquarium in an uninsulated building might need a heater during the winter. Cold is a relative term of course, so it really depends on how cold your home is and what kind of fish you keep.

    Can you have a tank without a heater?

    You can definitely have a fish tank without a heater. The temperature of the water in your tank will vary with the temperature in your home, so the type of fish you can keep will be limited.

    You’ll probably need to keep coldwater fish in an unheated aquarium unless you live in a tropical climate or like to keep your home really warm.

    Can you keep cold water types in a tank?

    Cold water fish are not only good for ponds. Even the common goldfish is considered to be a coldwater fish, and they do great in fish tanks!

    Can they survive in coldwater?

    Some pet fish do really well in cold water while some will not survive. It really depends on the species of fish you keep and what kind of environment they are adapted to survive in.

    What About Koi?

    Koi carp are an amazing coldwater fish, however, they require a large pond and their care are beyond the scope of this blog post. I felt it was best to cover them separate to not confuse readers. If you want to learn more about Koi, check out koi care articles.

    Expert Take

    I see more failed coldwater setups than heated ones, because people underestimate what “no heater” actually means. It does not mean no temperature management. It means keeping the tank in a space that stays at 60–72°F (16–22°C) year-round. In most homes, that is harder than just adding a heater. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate. Coldwater tanks require stable cool temperatures that many homes cannot provide without active cooling. Simpler in some ways, more demanding in others.

    Hard Rule: Coldwater fish require stable temperatures of 60–72°F (16–22°C). If your home exceeds 75°F (24°C) during summer, a chiller or climate-controlled space is required. Not optional.

    The Reality of Keeping Coldwater Aquariums

    Coldwater tanks require active temperature management in most homes, especially in summer. A fan across the water surface can reduce temperature by 2–4°F (1–2°C), but extended heat waves require more. This is the constraint that catches most beginners off-guard when they choose a “no-heater setup” for simplicity.

    Is the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Right for You?

    Before you add a 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    Avoid If:

    • Your home stays above 75°F (24°C) for extended periods without a way to cool the tank
    • You want to combine coldwater species with tropical fish that need 78°F+ water
    • You want a completely hands-off, maintenance-free setup. Temperature monitoring is still required
    • You live in a warm climate without air conditioning or basement access

    How the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Cold water aquarium fish are underrated in the hobby. Many of them are super easy to care for and make awesome pets. If you’re looking to start up a new tank, maybe you should think about ditching the heater and stocking some of the fish on this list!

    What’s your favorite cold water fish species? Let me know below!

  • Antibiotics for Fish: What Actually Works and When to Use Them

    Antibiotics for Fish: What Actually Works and When to Use Them

    After 25+ years in this hobby, the biggest mistake I see when fish get sick is treating the wrong thing. People reach for antibiotics when the problem is parasitic, or use anti-parasitics when it’s actually a bacterial infection. The diagnosis step matters more than the medication choice. That said, having the right antibiotics on hand before you need them is critical. these illnesses can progress fast, and waiting for a shipment while a fish is deteriorating is a bad position to be in. Kanaplex is my go-to for bacterial infections, and I’ve used Furan-2 for gram-negative bacterial issues. Here’s what you need to know about how fish antibiotics work and when to actually use them.

    How Do Antibiotics For Fish Work?

    To understand when to treat with antibiotics, we need to first understand how fish antibiotics work.

    It’s important to realize that fish antibiotics do not magically cure fish of their ailments. Instead, fish antibiotics decrease the growth of bacteria populations until the immune system of the fish is able to recover and naturally build resistance.

    Simply put, fish antibiotics interfere with the physiological and reproductive abilities of bacteria, slowing or stopping growth and spread. In the aquarium setting, there are two main types of bacterial infections you need to be aware of: gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria.

    Gram-Positive Bacteria vs. Gram-Negative Bacteria

    Gram Negative Bacteria

    Differentiating between bacteria can be complicated, but it’s necessary for accurate diagnosis and treatment. In short, the difference between gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria is their cell wall composition.

    • Gram-positive bacteria have a thin cell wall surrounded by an outer membrane. Gram-positive bacterial infections are less common in the aquarium setting and usually consist of Streptococcus spp..
    • Gram-negative bacteria lack an outer membrane but have thick polymer layers instead. Most aquatic bacterial infections arise from gram-negative bacteria, like Aeromonas spp., Flavobacterium spp., Vibrio spp., and Pseudomonas spp..

    The most definitive way to tell gram-positive bacteria apart from gram-negative bacteria is by performing a gram stain, hence the name. Gram-positive bacteria will stain blue while gram-negative bacteria will stain pink.

    As most hobbyists aren’t able to perform such a test, only physical symptoms can be observed for diagnosis. Gram-negative infections are typically more aggressive and deadly to fish.

    Identifying Bacterial Infections

    A bacterial infection can be difficult to diagnose. They often happen alongside other diseases and infections with similar symptoms, especially fungal infections. However, bacterial infections are much more common than true fungal infections as bacteria readily live in aquarium water, waiting to affect a compromised pet fish.

    The most common symptoms of a bacterial infection are:

    • Inflammation or redness
    • Irregular mucus/slime coat
    • Fragile and frayed fins
    • Cloudy or swollen eyes
    • Bloating

    Infection is largely caused by injury alongside poor water conditions and/or malnourishment. It is possible for your fish to fight off infection if water quality is good and diet is maintained, though sometimes even the strongest pet fish can succumb to harmful bacteria.

    It is near impossible to differentiate between gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria without a gram stain. Since gram-negative bacterial infections are much more common (in freshwater), most hobbyists use a fish medication that will target those bacteria first. In marine fish, gram-negative is more common.

    Treating Your Aquatic Pets

    Knowing what to treat is equally as important as correctly treating. Fish antibiotics have exact directions and the treatment schedule needs to be followed carefully.

    How do these antibiotics move from the water into your fish, though?

    How To Give To Your Pets

    The best way to give fish antibiotics is through treated food. This lets the medicine be administered in more direct, higher doses and saves some damage to nitrifying bacteria. A problem arises when your pet fish refuses to eat though, making this method impossible.

    Most fish antibiotics can be dosed directly into the aquarium. From there, these medicines need to be incorporated into the body of the fish, but how? This involves some physiology.

    Fish experience osmoregulation1. Osmosis is the process of a solvent moving from an area of low concentration to an area of high concentration across a semipermeable membrane in order to create a balance between the internal and external environments. Osmoregulation differs between freshwater and saltwater life. Here’s a video from Its AumSum Time. The explains the difference between freshwater and saltwater fish.

    Freshwater fish are hypertonic, meaning that their internal environment has more salt than their external environment. Because of this, water flows in through the gills and is absorbed by the body.

    On the other hand, saltwater fish are hypotonic, meaning that their internal environment has less salt than their external environment. Because of this, water wants to leave their body. In order to compensate for this loss, saltwater fish need to actively drink water and conserve it by sending some to their digestive tract.

    In the aquarium setting, this is an advantage to saltwater species. Because saltwater fish actively take water into their bodies, soluble antibiotics are much more likely to immediately enter the internal bloodstream in the marine environment. Still, freshwater fish can be given soluble antibiotics, though feeding them is much more effective.

    In general, there are two ways to administer fish antibiotics for both freshwater and saltwater fish. If your fish is suffering from an external infection, then bath treatments are recommended, though they can sometimes be ineffective. If your fish is showing signs of internal infection, then food treatment is the best route.

    Bath Treatments

    Bath treatments are the preferred choice of treatment for external infections when the fish is refusing to eat or there are other limitations.

    Bath treatments are best when there is no access to a quarantine system that allows for fish antibiotics to be directly dosed into the aquarium. This could be due to sensitive corals and invertebrates or where there is large biological filtration that could be affected.

    The problem with bath treatments is that very little medicine actually enters the bloodstream of the fish. In addition, the constant transferring of the fish can be stressful and cause injury; if the fish dies during this transfer, then there was probably little hope for it in the first place.

    Antibiotic-Treated Food

    The best treatment for bacterial infections is through food mixed with fish antibiotics. This requires a binding factor, like Seachem Focus, so that the fish antibiotics do not leak out of the food.

    This method allows the medication to be administered in large doses. However, it requires that the fish is still actively eating, which means that the infection has not yet compromised the fish to a large extent. Still, appetite can sometimes be increased through garlic or live food methods.

    Injection

    Lastly, injection is a possible course of treatment, though many hobbyists do not have this option available to them.

    An injection is the best and most effective method of treating infections in large and expensive fish, like oscars or koi, but is often unattainable for the average hobbyist.

    The 9 Best

    Depending on the type and severity of the infection, different fish antibiotics will be more effective. Most of these fish antibiotics can be used in freshwater, brackish, and saltwater systems though it is recommended to read all instructions closely. We have a video just for you from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. Please subscribe if you enjoy our content.

    1. Thomas Labs Cephalexin (Keflex)

    Thomas Labs Cephalexin offers two grades of fish antibiotics: Thomas Labs Fish Flex and Fish Flex Forte. Though this antibiotic is labeled as ornamental fish antibiotics, hobbyists have actually found it to be most effective against invertebrate bacterial infections, especially those found in anemones.

    This is a very broad fish antibiotics and needs to be administered in a quarantine system or bath for 5-10 days.

    2. Thomas Labs Ciprofloxacin

    Again, Thomas Labs offers two grades of this antibiotic: Thomas Labs Fish Flox and Fish Flox Forte.

    Ciprofloxacin is much more effective as a fish antibiotic than cephalexin, though this product is regularly used to treat anemones and other invertebrates as well. Specifically, this medicine can be dosed in a bath or in a quarantine tank for gram-negative bacterial infections over the course of 5-7 days.

    3. Thomas Labs Amoxicillin 

    Amoxicillin is a very popular antibiotic for other animals and human use. However, amoxicillin isn’t commonly used in the aquarium as a viable course of fish antibiotics. Regardless, Thomas Labs carries Thomas Laboratories Amoxicillin Fish Mox and Fish Mox Forte.

    If for anything, amoxicillin is one of the few fish antibiotics, alongside penicillin and ampicillin, used for treating gram-positive bacterial infections. These fish antibiotics should not be used with invertebrates and should be administered in a quarantine tank or bath treatment for 5 days. Still, hobbyists prefer other fish antibiotics first.

    Can You Use Amoxicillin In The Aquarium?

    Never use antibiotics intended for human consumption in the aquarium and vice versa. Medications should always be dosed seriously and carefully. Aquarium brands have specific formulas for making ornamental fish drugs that are not for human use.

    While aquarium brand amoxicillin can be used in the aquarium, hobbyists usually prefer other options first. Amoxicillin is very popular for treating other animals and humans but is generally useless in the aquarium setting. One of the only ailments hobbyists have found amoxicillin to be useful for is treating fungal infections in the eyes.

    4. Nitrofuracin Green Powder

    Nitrofuracin Green Powder is one of the most popular aquarium antibiotics. It is also used as a healing agent to use in quarantine tanks. This product contains methylene blue, in addition to nitrofurazone and sulfathiazole sodium, which will kill nitrifying bacteria. Nitrofuracin Green Powder is especially useful for healing cuts and abrasions while dealing with the infection.

    Many hobbyists consider Nitrofuracin Green Powder to be a quicker and more effective alternative to API Furan-2. Nitrofuracin Green Powder should be dosed for at least 10 consecutive days.

    5. Seachem KanaPlex + Seachem MetroPlex + API Furan-2

    Seachem KanaPlex, MetroPlex, and API Furan-2 are very common fish antibiotics to dose together. These three medications can be incredibly effective at combatting a variety of infections.

    Seachem Kanaplex is a 7-day kanamycin-based medicine recommended for:

    • Popeye
    • Cloudy eye
    • Fin rot
    • Dropsy
    • Mouth rot
    • Hemorraghic septicemia(Aeromonas hydrophilia)

    MetroPlex should be dosed at the same time, though can be administered up to 3 weeks on its own. This antibiotic is made from metronidazole and is meant to treat protozoan parasites and anaerobic bacterial diseases (Cryptocaryon, Hexamita, Ichthyophthirius). Mainly, MetroPlex is used for ich, hole in the head/head and lateral line erosion (Hexamita spp./Spironucleus vortens), and velvet.

    API Furan-2 targets both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria through a 7-day nitrofurazone-based treatment. This antibiotic specifically treats for:

    • Bacterial gill disease
    • Open red sores (Aeromonas spp.)
    • Body slime
    • Cloudy eye
    • Columnaris (Flavobacterium columnaris)
    • Fin rot

    This combination of fish medications can cover a wide range of infections as long as the treatment is carried out in full.

    6. Seachem SulfaPlex + NeoPlex

    Seachem SulfpaPlex and NeoPlex can be used together at the same time or separately depending on the illness.

    SulfaPlex is a general sulfathiazole-based antibiotic meant to treat bacterial, fungal, and protozoan-related illnesses. Though this product can be used in both freshwater and saltwater settings, it is most effective to travel across gills in saltwater.

    Specifically, SulfaPlex can be used to treat:

    • Fin rot
    • Hemorraghic septicemia(Aeromonas hydrophilia)
    • Fur coat syndrome
    • Mouth rot
    • Fungus

    NeoPlex is another broad neomycin sulfate-based treatment for external infections, like fin rot, bacterial lesions, bloat, and mouth rot. Most hobbyists describe it as having the same effects as topical Neosporin.

    Both of these medicines should be used for at least 7 days but can be dosed for up to 3 weeks on their own.

    7. API Triple Sulfa

    API Triple Sulfa is one of the safer fish antibiotics treatments to use in the aquarium as it won’t completely kill all nitrifying bacteria. Still, filter media should be removed before dosing for best results.

    Sulfa medications are thought to be somewhat outdated. Many hobbyists have found some resistance to these treatments and opt for stronger alternatives, like Furan-2. However, API Triple Sulfa has the benefit of being gentle on the display tank ecosystem if need be.

    API Triple Sulfa can treat gram-negative bacteria, like those that cause:

    • Hemorrhagic septicemia (Aeromonas hydrophilia)
    • Bacterial gill disease
    • Fin rot
    • Cottonmouth diseases
    • Body slime
    • Cloudy Eyes

    Treatment should last 10 days.

    8. Enrofloxacin

    Enrofloxacin is one of the most modern ways to treat bacterial infections in fish2, though it is still best administered in a quarantine tank or through 5-hour baths. Though effective, this medicine can be difficult to find; it is most commonly found as Baytril from Bayer Pharmaceuticals.

    This is a fast-acting fluoroquinolone antibiotic that can help treat gram-negative and gram-positive infections.

    9. AAP Spectrogram

    As of 2021, AAP Spectrogram has become difficult to find fish antibiotics; this is likely in direct response to heightened pharmaceutical regulations during the Covid-19 pandemic.

    If you come across AAP Spectrogram, it can be very useful for treating both gram-negative and gram-positive bacterial infections. This fish medicine is a combination of KanaPlex and Furan-2 (kanamycin/nitrofurazone), but much easier to use and more effective. It can be used to treat most infections besides parasitic ones.

    Which Are Safe?

    All medications that are labeled for aquarium use are safe for the aquarium. However, it is possible to overdose on some medications so it’s important to follow directions closely.

    There is one thing you should avoid though, and that’s ‘natural’ medications.

    Avoiding ‘Natural’ Products And Medications

    While many reputable aquarium brands offer great products to their consumers, some brands take advantage of branding treatments. Some of the latest trends in the aquarium hobby have arisen from ‘natural’ fish antibiotics and medications which end up hurting fish more than helping them. Some of these organic alternatives include tannins and natural oils.

    Tannins can be very beneficial to aquatic systems and can lead to healthy fish, however, they don’t exactly help with bacterial infections. Research has found that tannins are only effective at combatting bacteria at very high concentrations3, much more than is reasonable for any tank size. Tannic acid is also a blood coagulant with can decrease healing rates.

    Natural oils, like those found in MelaFix and PimaFix, are also detrimental to the health of your fish. Though these oils might look and smell medicinal, they have been linked to swim bladder damage and have been found to be nearly ineffective at low concentrations. Similarly, aloe vera also inhibits your fish’s ability to exchange oxygen and increases available sugars for bacteria to feed on.

    Though it might seem like a good idea to stay as natural as possible when it comes to treating fish diseases, it is usually safer and easier to use tried and true fish antibiotics.

    Can You Give Your Fish Over-The-Counter Human Types?

    Fish should never be given medications intended for human consumption. Though the chemical makeup may be similar between medicines, factors like dosages, solubilities, and efficacy cannot be known.

    It is true that some fish antibiotics have become difficult to find recently. Though you may not be able to get the antibiotics of your choice, there are many alternatives for each treatment from reputable aquariums brands like API and Seachem. This makes treating your fish safe, fast, and easy.

    Can Humans Take Fish Meds?

    Also no! You should never be using an antibiotic you haven’t been personally prescribed. Not only does this put your own health at risk, but it can also make it difficult for other hobbyists to obtain these fish antibiotics in the future, like AAP Spectrogram.

    In case of a medical emergency, consult your primary doctor.

    Where To Buy

    It’s actually getting more challenging these days to purchase fish antibiotics as regulations get tougher from states (and the food and drug administration). Supplies have also gotten tighter. Here are a few places you can likely find the fish med you are looking for.

    Chain Pet Stores and Local Stores

    These are usually your defaults when you are in a hurry for a fish medication and you can’t wait even on 2 day shipping. The problem that you run into with either is the limited availability. You will usually find Seachem medications at both stores, but hours will be limited. Sometimes you can get to a chain pet store like a Petco later at night as they tend to stay open later than local fish stores.

    Amazon

    Another default choice for fish antibiotics is because of availability and speed of shipping. Again, the brand limitation can be an issue. Thomas Labs fish antibiotic medication isn’t always available here. There is another choice if you are looking for Thomas Lab medications.

    Chewy

    Chewy surprisedly has a number of Thomas Lab fish meds available. They ship slower than amazon through. They also have generic Thomas Lab medications under the name Aqua-Mox that is available.

    National Fish Pharmacy

    This is a great choice when looking for Nitrofuracin Green Powder. They sell in bulk sizes and shipping is slow. This is a good choice if you are building a fish pharmacy for emergencies.

    References

    Final Thoughts

    There’s a lot more to fish antibiotics than you might have thought. Identifying a bacterial infection in your fish can be difficult, but treatment doesn’t need to be complicated.

    First, understand the difference between gram-positive and gram-negative infections. Then choose a course of fish antibiotics and a method for administering them. Keep up with water changes and water parameters and keep your fish eating.

    Within no time, the infection should start to heal and your fish will get back to normal

  • 10 Best Red Aquarium Plants – Care Tips From a Planted Tank Keeper

    10 Best Red Aquarium Plants – Care Tips From a Planted Tank Keeper

    Red aquarium plants have always been one of my favorite ways to add contrast and depth to a planted tank. When I set up my 65-gallon community planted tank, I made sure to include reds throughout to create that pop against the greens. The challenge with red plants is that they demand more light and often stronger nutrients than green plants, and I’ve learned through trial and error exactly what they need to thrive. This guide covers my top picks and the key things you need to know to actually keep them vibrant. not just alive.

    Why Grow Red Aquarium Plants?

    We got a video for you from our YouTube Channel you can check out all about Red Plants. We go into more detail in the blog post below. Sub to our YouTube channel for more content as we post new videos every week.

    If you’ve ever seen an aquascape aquarium with bright and colorful red plants in it, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. Of course, bright green plants are beautiful too, but there’s something special about dramatic rosy foliage that really catches the eye.

    Growing healthy red plants can be a little bit challenging for beginners, but with the right equipment and know-how, it is a fascinating side of the planted tank hobby that any aquarist can succeed at!

    10 Best Red Aquarium Plants

    In a hurry? Check out red plants sold at Buce Plant!

    Here we go folks, it’s time to introduce 10 amazing red aquarium plants that you can use in your own aquascape! For each plant, I’ll be providing important information like:

    • The plant’s average size
    • The recommended placement in the tank
    • pH
    • Care level
    • Light requirements
    • CO2 requirement
    • Method for propagating new plants

    1. Ludwigia natans ‘Super Red’

    • Size: 6-20 inches
    • Tank Placement: Mid ground, Background
    • Origin: North America
    • pH: 6-7
    • Care level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium
    • CO2 requirement: No, recommended
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    Ludwigia natans ‘Super Red’ is a great plant to start out with. This fast-growing stem plant for freshwater aquariums is an easy plant to care for but will develop its best color with proper lighting and CO2 injection.

    It is a tall, narrow plant when grown singly, but being soft and delicate, it shows great movement when a few stems are planted together in groups.

    2. Alternanthera reineckii ‘Mini’

    Alternanthera Reineckii

    A challenging, but rewarding red aquarium plant. Grows in all placements

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    • Size: 3-12 inches
    • Tank Placement: Foreground, Mid ground, Background
    • Origin: South America
    • pH: 5-7
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Lighting: Medium-High
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    Alternanthera reineckii is a very popular aquarium plant that is commonly referred to as AR for short. It is a beautiful but fragile plant that is available in many amazing varieties. AR ‘Mini’ is a relatively compact and slow-growing stem plant with amazing color.

    Being a slow-growing plant, it can be prone to algae growth on its broad leaf surfaces. Give this plant stable water parameters and regular tank maintenance and it will provide you with incredible foliage and color.

    3. Alternanthera reineckii ‘Rosanervig’

    • Size: 4-12 inches
    • Tank Placement: Mid ground, Background
    • Origin: South & Central America
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Lighting: Medium-high
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    AR ‘Rosanervig’ is a taller variety that makes a great midground plant for larger aquariums. It can even be used as an effective background in small tanks. This gorgeous plant has reddish-green foliage with brilliant pink veins.

    4. Rotala rotundifolia ‘Red’

    • Size: 8+ inches
    • Tank Placement: Background
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Care level: Easy
    • Lighting: High
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    Rotala rotundifolia ‘Red’is an easy-to-grow stem plant that can add amazing color to your aquarium. This fast-growing aquatic plant produces its best colors when nitrogen is limited in the tank. It is easy to trim and propagate, which makes it an excellent choice for aquascaping.

    5. Rotala macrandra ‘Mini’

    • Size: 8-11 inches
    • Tank Placement: Background, Mid ground
    • Origin: India
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Care level: Advanced
    • Lighting: High
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Root cut side shoots in substrate

    Rotala macranda ‘Mini’ is a spectacular but challenging aquatic plant for more experienced aquarists. These stem plants grow quickly with the right care, but need intense lighting and the correct nutrient balance to thrive.

    This plant also needs limited nitrates to develop its red coloration, just like the previous species. Furthermore, it also needs acidic, soft water and increased carbon dioxide (CO2) levels. Are you ready for the challenge of growing this striking plant?

    6. Nymphaea zenkeri – Tiger Lotus

    • Size: 4-30 inches
    • Tank Placement: Floating plant, midground
    • Origin: Africa
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Care level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • CO2 requirement: Recommended
    • Propagation: Root side shoots

    The red tiger lotus (video source from Tropica) is a bold aquatic aquarium plant that can be used as a centerpiece plant for the mid-ground. This hardy plant species is almost a combination of a stem plant and a floating plant in that it grow its root system in the substrate while producing large, flat, floating leaves on the water surface.

    The Red tiger lotus plant is easy to grow but will show its best red color if provided with high-intensity lighting system, additional carbon dioxide, and enough nutrients.

    7. Ludwigia peruensis

    • Size: 18 inches
    • Tank Placement: Midground, Background
    • Origin: North America
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Lighting: High
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    This Ludwigia species is very popular for its two-tone foliage. Each amazing leaf is green above and red below. It makes a fine background plant for small aquariums or can be used in the midground of larger tanks.

    8. Alternanthera Lilacina

    • Size: 4-12+ inches
    • Tank Placement: Midground, Background
    • Origin: South America
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Care level: Easy-Moderate
    • Lighting: Medium-high
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    This colorful AR variety is popular for its deep red stems and pink to red young growth. The undersides of the leaves are often a striking purple color.

    It is a pretty undemanding plant that has a moderate growth rate under bright lighting. This is an excellent plant for dutch style planted aquarium, providing intense color.

    9. Alternanthera reineckii ‘Rosaefolia Mini’

    • Size: 8 inches
    • Tank Placement: Midground
    • Origin: South America
    • pH: 5-7
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Lighting: Medium-High
    • CO2 requirement: Yes
    • Propagation: Rooted cuttings

    AR ‘Roseafolia Mini’ is a small plant that has a big presence in any planted fish tank. Its stems and foliage can be seen in a variety of reddish hues from pink, through red, to purple with intense lighting.

    This versatile plant is a great size for the midground of most aquaria, and can even be trimmed down to create a lush red carpet effect in a large aquarium.

    10. Phyllanthus fluitans – Red Root Floater

    • Size: 1 inch
    • Tank Placement: Floating plant
    • Origin: South America
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Care level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium-High
    • CO2 requirement: No
    • Propagation: Side-shoot division

    Unlike the other plants in this list, the red root floater is not rooted in the substrate. In fact, these stunning plants float at the water’s surface just like water lilies. Their tiny roots trail down into the water creating an enchanting underwater scene.

    As the name suggests, these popular floating aquarium plants are best known for their bright red roots. The leaves themselves will also be a beautiful red shade if grown under bright light.

    Tank setup

    Now that you’ve learned about ten great plants that you can grow in your fish tank, let’s take a closer look at what you’ll need to grow healthy red aquarium plants.

    Substrate

    You should select a nutrient rich substrate for most popular aquatic plants that are rooted. The exceptions, of course, are floating plants like the red root floater and some epiphytes.

    Aquasoils are a soil-based nutrient rich substrate designed specifically for planted tanks. There are many great options on the market, including popular varieties like:

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    Lighting

    Providing strong enough light intensity is the number one requirement for vibrant red aquarium plants. Many plants will grow quite happily in low light but remain green or just lack that wow factor that we want from the red plant species.

    It is important to remember that light intensity diminishes quickly with depth. This means that low-growing plants will be getting a lot less light than taller plants. For this reason, deeper aquariums will also need stronger lighting, even if they hold the same volume of water.

    A PAR level of about 100 umols measured at the bottom of the tank is a good value to aim for. This will bring out great color in most of the red aquatic plants

    The Light Spectrum

    When considering the needs of an aquatic plant, not just any bright light will do.

    Lighting that is turned up in the blue and red spectrum is ideal, but only so much as to maintain a natural and visually pleasing look. The red spectrum not only makes red aquarium plants appear redder but also helps them develop their color.

    Editor’s Choice
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    Twinstar nails the spectrum, has the proper spread and comes with a sleek design. Perfect for aquascapers

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    Filtration

    When selecting a filtration system, opt for a model that provides a good flow and a high water turnover. A turnover rate of 5 times the volume of your aquarium per hour is a good place to start.

    You can use an internal power filter or a hang-on back design to filter your aquarium, but external filters are best for creating beautiful display tanks. This is because canister filters are housed outside of the aquarium, so you won’t have to hide any hardware. OASE makes the best canister filters on the market. They are the top choice for planted aquarium owners today.

    How To Grow These Tank Plants

    Maintaining healthy aquatic plants of any color requires an understanding of the basics of plant care. Put simply, plants need:

    • Light
    • Water
    • Carbon dioxide
    • Nutrients

    That’s not all that aquatic plants need, however. You should also provide the following:

    • A suitable rich substrate
    • The correct temperature range
    • Suitable parameters like water hardness and pH
    • Healthy water flow
    • Good plant spacing and trimming

    With this in mind, let’s take a look at the specifics you need to know for growing red plants in particular.

    Growing With CO2 Supplementation

    Carbon dioxide is absolutely necessary for healthy plant growth, and red plants species are no exception. Although this gas is present in all aquariums, you will need to provide an increased concentration to really see your plants flourish.

    The fact is, your aquarium plants simply can’t make use of bright light without elevated CO2 levels. In fact, intense light without CO2 will probably just grow you a whole lot of algae!

    CO2 Injection Systems

    CO2 supplementation might be the secret ingredient for amazing plant growth, but this gas has a dark side too. It is lethal in high concentrations (above 30ppm), which is a huge problem if you keep any fish or live animals in your aquarium.

    Fortunately, there are some amazing products and systems available to the modern hobbyist that make running CO2 safely pretty simple. An example of a great CO2 system includes the following components:

    • Pressurized CO2 canister
    • Co2 regulator
    • Diffuser
    • Bubble counter
    • Drop checker and solution
    • Timer
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    Using this kind of setup, you can set your injection system to provide dissolved carbon dioxide levels between 15 and 30ppm exactly when the plants need it.

    Since plants need light to use CO2, you’ll want to set your timer to fire up an hour or two before the lights go on, and then switch off at the same time as the lights go out.

    Maintaining Good Water Quality

    Creating an amazing underwater garden requires regular maintenance. Here’s what you’ll need to do to keep your red plants healthy and looking great:

    • Vacuum your gravel and carpet plants with a gravel vacuum to remove physical waste and uneaten fish food
    • Keep your glass clean with an algae scraper
    • Trim plants that are growing too large and shading out other plants. Use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors for this task
    • Remove all trimmings and dead plant material from the tank
    • Rinse out your filter media or replace cartridges when necessary
    • Perform a weekly water changes. Start with about 25%, but measure your nitrate levels to fine-tune your routine

    Testing

    A good test kit is an essential tool for maintaining a healthy aquarium and one of the best purchases you will ever make. A test kit allows you to determine whether your tank is cycled, measure the parameters of your tap water, and monitor the nitrate levels in your aquarium.

    Supplements And Feeding

    Your aquarium plants require regular feeding of aquarium fertilizers to keep up with the demands of growth under high light and increased CO2 levels.

    A product like APT Zero from the 2Hr Aquarist is an ideal all-in-one solution for amazing growth for a planted fish tank. This formula lacks nitrate, which is great for keeping nitrogen levels down and boosting red colors while minimizing algae growth.

    Nitrogen Limitation

    Many red plants look their best and develop their most intense coloration in a low nitrogen environment. That’s why reducing the nitrates in the water through regular water changes can be so important.

    This technique does not work for all red plants, however, but species like Rotala rotundifolia certainly do respond best to low nitrate levels. It is not realistic to maintain zero nitrates in the long term, especially if you keep fish. Of course, plants need some nitrogen to grow, so a prolonged absence of this important element will stunt and even kill plants.

    It is feasible to aim for nitrate levels below 5ppm, however, especially as a temporary method to bring out the best colors for a photo shoot for example.

    Pests and other problems

    The most common issues with red plants are poor color, and we know this is often a result of incorrect light, CO2 supplementation, and nutrient levels. Let’s take a look at some of the problems you may encounter.

    Unwelcome Guests

    Pests like snails and planaria are often introduced to aquariums as stow-aways on new aquarium plants. These animals don’t typically affect the plants themselves, but can be a major headache for other reasons. The best way to avoid introducing these pests is to grow tissue culture plants that are produced in sterile conditions.

    Hungry Herbivores

    Some common aquarium fish will feast on your red plants too. The following species are the usual suspects:

    Instability And Melting

    Aquarium plants can die back pretty alarmingly when they are moved into different environments. This phenomenon is known as melting, and it is very common.

    Often, the plants you buy were grown emersed (out of water), and being submerged underwater is a huge shock. The plant responds by getting rid of its old air-loving leaves and replacing them with new ones that are ready for life underwater. Most plants will bounce back pretty quickly, and all you need to do is remove all the dead, brown or dying leaves before it rots in your fish tank.

    Another potential cause for melt is unstable parameters and poor water quality. Keeping up with regular aquarium maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem.

    Algae

    Algae often thrive under the intense lighting needed to create a vibrant red aquarium plant. Balancing your light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide (CO2) is the best way to manage this problem, but there are some other options too.

    One of the best ways to combat algae is to have plenty of healthy, fast-growing plants to outcompete this common aquarium villain. If your planted aquarium is still young and growing, there are some other options too.

    Algae-eating aquarium animals can do an awesome job of keeping your tank clean, and what’s more, they are amazing creatures in their own right! Fish like Otocinclus catfish, and inverts like Amano shrimp and nerite snails are the first species that come to mind, but check out my article on aquarium algae eaters for even more great options.

    If you prefer to keep plants only, there are some great products available for managing the algae in your tank. The APT Fix algae treatment is ideal for spot treating any algae in the tank before it can grow into a headache.

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    Where To Buy

    Your local fish store is always worth checking out for aquarium plants. Always make certain, however, that the plants are correctly labeled.

    For the most part, the best place to shop for a wide variety of red plants is online. Buceplant.com is one of the most trusted online aquarium plant retailers, and they stock an amazing range of the best red aquarium plants for your fish tank.

    FAQs

    Do you need CO2 for these types of Tank plants?

    Not all red aquarium plants need injected CO2 to grow in the home aquarium. However, all of them will benefit from increased carbon dioxide, with faster and more robust growth.

    Do they need more light?

    Yes, most red aquarium plants need high lighting to look their best. There are always exceptions, but most species will require high, or at least moderate light to look their best.

    How do you keep these a vibrant color?

    To keep red aquarium plants red you will need to provide them sufficient light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. Some plants also respond to very low nitrate levels by turning red.

    What does red-light do for Tank greenery?

    Red light can make red plants look even redder. The red part of the light spectrum helps plants grow tall and even is also known to stimulate flowering. On the other hand, too much red light can look unnatural, and even cause increased algae growth.

    Do they need iron?

    Red aquatic plants certainly need iron to grow healthy. Iron is one of the trace elements that all plants need, however, and it does not increase the red color in plants.

    Final Thoughts

    Red aquatic plants are often that X-factor that makes a good aquascape greatSure, they are an eye catching plant and can be a little needier than a green plant, but the results are worth it!

    Do you love red plants as much as I do? If so, share your favorite red plant below. Happy aquascaping!


    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • 15 Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank: How Many Can You Actually Keep?

    15 Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank: How Many Can You Actually Keep?

    The 10-gallon tank is one of the most popular starter sizes in the hobby and one of the most consistently misused. After 25 years of keeping fish and working at fish stores, I’ve watched this play out hundreds of times: someone grabs a 10-gallon starter kit, picks fish that look cool together at the store, and a few months later they’re losing fish and wondering what went wrong. The answer is almost always the same. They picked the wrong fish, added too many too fast, or both.

    A 10-gallon tank is not a beginner tank for any fish. It’s a beginner tank for the RIGHT fish.

    In this guide I’m walking you through 15 species that genuinely work in a 10-gallon, with real numbers on how many you can keep and an honest look at which fish are commonly oversold for this tank size.

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    In 25 years in this hobby, the 10-gallon is the tank I’ve seen go wrong more than any other size. People hear “beginner tank” and assume that means forgiving. It’s the opposite. Ten gallons of water swings fast: temperature spikes, ammonia builds overnight, and a single overstocked week can wipe out everything you’ve built. The fish selection in a 10-gallon matters more than in any tank I’ve ever kept. Get a betta and do it right, or go with a tight nano school of chili rasboras or ember tetras in a planted setup. Those are the setups I’d stake money on. What I’d never recommend is mixing a betta with active schooling fish, cramming in community fish that grow to 3 inches, or skipping the cycle because “it’s only 10 gallons.” Especially that last one.

    Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Betta
    • Easy to care
    • Lot of breeds available
    Easiest To Care For
    White Cloud Mountain Minnow” data-lasso-lid=”1063222″>White Cloud Minnow
    • No heater needed
    • Easy to care for
    Most Unique
    Pea Puffers
    • Species only
    • Personality

    Let’s get straight to it. Bettas are my top choice because of the sheer variety available and their presence as display fish. White cloud minnows are the easiest to care for on this entire list: no heater required, they school, and they’re genuinely tough. Pea puffers are for hobbyists who want something unusual, but go in clear-eyed: they’re semi-aggressive and do best in a species-only setup in a small group.

    How We Selected These Fish

    1. Adult size: stays under 2.5 inches maximum
    2. Bioload: low enough for a stable 10-gallon nitrogen cycle
    3. Activity level: not so active that a small tank causes stress
    4. Temperature tolerance: compatible with other fish in the list
    5. Availability: findable at most LFS or reputable online suppliers

    Is a 10-Gallon Right for These Fish?

    Works Well

    • Betta as a solo display fish
    • Nano schooling fish in groups of 6+
    • Shrimp-only or shrimp-forward planted setup
    • Species-only setups for small, peaceful fish

    Avoid in a 10-Gallon

    • Any fish that reaches 3+ inches as an adult
    • Active schooling fish like danios that need swimming room
    • Multiple male bettas or aggressive species
    • High-bioload fish like goldfish

    What People Get Wrong About 10-Gallon Tanks

    The biggest misconception about a 10-gallon is that it’s a low-commitment setup. It’s not. Small tanks are actually harder to maintain than larger ones because the water volume is so limited. Temperature swings happen faster. Ammonia spikes happen faster. One overfed day can spike ammonia overnight in a 10-gallon. In a 75-gallon tank, that same mistake barely registers on a test kit.

    The second mistake I see constantly is selecting fish based on store size rather than adult size. That 1-inch tiger barb at the fish store becomes a 3-inch fin nipper with serious energy in six months. That fancy guppy pair becomes fifteen guppies in eight weeks because someone didn’t separate the sexes. These are the real 10-gallon problems, not the ones that show up in generic “how many fish” articles.

    The third mistake: people stack species together that can’t actually coexist at this size. A betta with active neon tetras sounds fine on paper. In a 10-gallon with nowhere to retreat, the betta either hunts the tetras or the tetras stress the betta into fin rot. Both outcomes happen more than people want to admit.

    The 15 Best Fish For 10 Gallon Tank

    For each species below, I’ll give you the key stats, realistic stocking numbers, and an honest assessment of whether they actually belong in a 10-gallon or just get listed there because they’re small.

    For each species, I’ll cover:

    • Their scientific name
    • Size when fully grown
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • What they eat
    • Where do they come from
    • Temperature range
    • Swimming level in the tank

    1. Betta

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Water Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    The betta fish is the single best display fish for a 10-gallon tank. One male betta, well-kept in a properly cycled tank with live plants, is as close to a perfect 10-gallon setup as this hobby offers. The tank won’t feel empty: bettas have more personality than most fish three times their size.

    One male only. No exceptions. Two males in a 10-gallon will fight. A male betta with neon tetras or other active fish often ends in fin damage or constant stress for everyone involved. This fish defines the tank. Build around it, not alongside it.

    Mark’s Top Pick for a 10-Gallon

    For a display setup, a single male betta is my top pick. Period. No other fish delivers the combination of visual impact, personality, and manageability in a 10-gallon. For a planted nano school setup, chili rasboras in a group of 15-20 in a well-planted 10-gallon is the most stunning tank you’ll build at this size. Both are strong choices. They just serve different goals.

    2. Guppy

    Guppy Fish
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Adult Size: 1-2.5 inches (2.5-6.4 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: South America and the Caribbean
    • Water Temperature: 63-82°F (17-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Guppies work in a 10-gallon, but only if you manage their breeding. These are livebearers, and females arrive from the store already pregnant more often than not. A trio of males only is my recommendation for a 10-gallon. You get the color, you skip the population explosion.

    If you want males and females, know this: a pregnant guppy will fry every 3-4 weeks. In a 10-gallon that fills up fast. Plan for what you’ll do with the offspring before you decide on mixed sexes. The fancy guppy males are smaller, more colorful, and the right call here.

    3. Japanese Rice Fish

    • Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: Japan
    • Water Temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Japanese Rice fish are an underrated gem. They’ve been raised in Asia for centuries, naturally living in rice paddies, and that background makes them adaptable and peaceful. They also go by Medaka or Japanese killifish.

    Ricefish show their best behavior and coloration in groups of 6 or more. Keep the tank covered: they’ll jump. These fish are a solid choice for a planted 10-gallon where you want activity at all levels of the water column.

    4. Endler’s Livebearer

    Endler's Livebearer
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches (2.5-4.6 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: Venezuela, South America
    • Water Temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Endler’s livebearers are the nano version of the guppy and a better fit for a 10-gallon in most cases. They stay smaller, produce less bioload, and are just as active and colorful. Same breeding warning applies: males only if you don’t want fry.

    Males are smaller, more colorful, and easy to care for. This is one nano fish I’d recommend to any beginner without hesitation, as long as they understand the livebearer math.

    5. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inches (2 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Water Temperature: 68-82°F (20-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    Chili rasboras in a planted 10-gallon are one of the most visually striking setups in the nano fish hobby. These bright orange fish with black markings are tiny: adults top out at 0.8 inches. Their small size means you can keep as many as 20 in a well-planted, well-filtered 10-gallon without stressing the system.

    Chili rasboras come alive in a dark substrate planted tank with dim lighting. They’re not the right fish for a community setup with active or larger species: they’re shy and get outcompeted at feeding time. Build the tank around them and they’re spectacular.

    6. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches (3.8 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: China
    • Water Temperature: 58-72°F (14-22°C)
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    White cloud minnows are beautiful, graceful schooling fish and the easiest species on this list to keep. They don’t need a heater: they’re cool water fish from mountain streams in China, thriving at 58-72°F (14-22°C). That makes them a great option for unheated setups or rooms that run cold.

    They’re available in gold and long-fin varieties, and they school actively. A group of 8-10 in a 10-gallon is a clean, low-maintenance setup that practically any beginner can succeed with.

    7. Celestial Pearl Danio

    Celestial Pearl Danio
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches (1.9 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
    • Water Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The celestial pearl danio is one of the most beautiful fish you can keep in a 10-gallon. They’re happiest in a heavily planted tank and they stay small: 0.75 inches as adults.

    The one thing to know: CPDs are shy and get outcompeted by faster, more aggressive feeders. Don’t pair them with livebearers or active mid-level fish. They do best in a species tank or with other calm nano fish. Keep groups of at least 6.

    8. Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Water Temperature: 70-77°F (21-25°C)
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The neon tetra is the classic nano schooling fish. A 10-gallon is about the smallest tank they’ll genuinely thrive in, and only with strong filtration. A school of 6-8 neons in a mature, planted 10-gallon looks fantastic. The problem I see most often is people buying them for new, uncycled tanks. Neons are not as hardy as they look: a water quality crash in a new 10-gallon will kill them faster than almost any other fish on this list.

    9. Female Bettas

    Female Betta Group
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2-2.5 inches (5-6.4 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Water Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    Female betta fish are often overlooked because they don’t carry the dramatic finnage of the males. But females still have real color and personality, and they’re a better fit for community setups than males. Finding tank mates for a female betta is a much easier problem to solve.

    A sorority of 4-5 females in a 10-gallon is possible for experienced keepers with a heavily planted tank and good monitoring, but it’s not a beginner move. Hierarchy disputes happen. A single female betta is the safer call for a 10-gallon.

    10. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches (3.8-5 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: India
    • Water Temperature: 70-82°F (21-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    Zebra danios are hardy and adaptable, which is why they show up on most 10-gallon lists. But I’ll be honest: they’re a borderline choice. These are active, fast-moving danios that prefer more swimming room than a 10-gallon comfortably provides. If you want them, keep a group of 6 minimum and make sure the tank is longer than it is tall. A 10-gallon with zebra danios works, but a 20-gallon long is a noticeably better fit.

    11. Dwarf Corydoras Catfish

    Pygmy Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras hastatus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Water Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The dwarf corydoras (pygmy cory) is one of the few cory species that genuinely works in a 10-gallon. Most cory cats need more floor space than a 10-gallon gives them. The dwarf species are different: they’re midwater swimmers as much as bottom dwellers, which means they use the full tank.

    Keep them in groups of at least 6. Ten gallons is the minimum for this species. They’re a great choice for community setups with other peaceful nano fish, and they’ll keep the substrate cleaner than almost anything else on this list.

    12. Freshwater Pea Puffer

    • Scientific Name: Carinotetradon travancoricus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed frozen and live foods
    • Origin: India
    • Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    The freshwater pea puffer is one inch of pure predator personality. These are aggressive fish with a bigger-than-life attitude, and they belong in a species-only setup. One pea puffer in a 10-gallon works well. Some keepers have managed 3 in a heavily planted 10-gallon with plenty of driftwood to break sightlines, but that’s advanced territory.

    Don’t try to house them with other fish in a 10-gallon. In a larger tank with dense planting, some tank mate combinations can work. In a 10-gallon, the puffer will find everything eventually. Species-only is not a suggestion: it’s the rule.

    13. Dwarf Gourami

    Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried and frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

    The dwarf gourami is from the same family as the betta and has similar care requirements: one male, good filtration, plenty of plants. They’re the smallest practical gourami and a good centerpiece option when you want something different from a betta.

    A single male dwarf gourami in a 10-gallon works. A pair (one male, one female) is possible with strong planting and good filtration, but males can chase females relentlessly. Dwarf gouramis like shaded areas: floating plants or tall stem plants that dim the midwater are worth adding.

    14. Freshwater Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches (2.5-3.2 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, algae
    • Origin: Taiwan
    • Water Temperature: 60-82°F (15-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Freshwater shrimp are one of the best choices for a 10-gallon and are massively underappreciated by beginners. Cherry shrimp eat algae and leftover food, add almost no bioload, and breed readily in a mature tank. A shrimp-only planted 10-gallon is one of the lowest-maintenance, highest-reward setups you can build at this size.

    The catch: baby shrimp are snacks for any fish. Keep shrimp with no fish, or only with the most peaceful nano fish (dwarf corydoras work well). There are many types of freshwater shrimp available. Cherry shrimp are the most forgiving for beginners.

    15. Nerite Snails

    • Scientific Name: Clithon, Vittina, and Neritina spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm)
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Algae
    • Origin: Africa and Asia
    • Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Most people think of snails as pests. That’s because they haven’t kept nerite snails. Nerites cannot breed in freshwater, which means they’re the only snail you can add without worrying about population explosions. They’re excellent algae eaters, add almost no bioload, and they look great. Horned, tiger, zebra, and olive varieties all work in a 10-gallon. Add 2-3 as a cleanup crew in any setup on this list.

    The Reality of Keeping a 10-Gallon Tank

    Here’s what the “15 best fish” lists don’t tell you: a 10-gallon tank requires more attention per gallon than almost any other size. Water changes need to happen weekly. Feeding needs to be precise: overfeeding in 10 gallons spikes ammonia within 24-48 hours. The nitrogen cycle is less stable because there’s less water to buffer changes.

    The fish that succeed here are the ones that match the tank’s limitations, not the ones that can technically survive in it. A fish that “can” live in a 10-gallon but naturally swims several feet a day isn’t thriving: it’s tolerating. The difference shows up over months.

    The setups I’ve watched succeed long-term at this size: a solo male betta in a planted tank, a tight school of chili rasboras or ember tetras in a mature planted setup, a species-only pea puffer tank, or a shrimp colony. Everything else on this list works too, but those four are the ones I’d build without hesitation.

    What You Need to Know About Stocking Your Aquarium

    Smaller doesn’t mean easier. That’s the single most important thing to understand about 10-gallon tanks. The smaller the tank, the less stable the water chemistry, and the faster problems develop. A 10-gallon punishes bad decisions faster than any other tank size.

    For me, there are 3 keys to success in a 10-gallon:

    • Choosing the right fish (this is the whole game)
    • Providing good quality filtration
    • Keeping up with regular maintenance

    Debunking the Inch-Per-Gallon Myth

    The inch-per-gallon rule gets thrown around constantly as 10-gallon stocking advice. It’s not wrong exactly: it’s just incomplete. Ten 1-inch fish sounds fine in a 10-gallon. One 10-inch fish is obviously wrong. But the rule doesn’t account for bioload, behavior, or activity level. A single 3-inch fish that swims constantly produces more waste and needs more space than three 1-inch fish that hover quietly in a planted corner.

    The better question isn’t “how many inches of fish” but “what does each species actually need to thrive?” That’s the question this list is built around.

    Aquariums Hold Less Water Than You’d Think

    A 10-gallon tank doesn’t hold 10 gallons of water once you add substrate, hardscape, equipment, and leave space at the top. In practice, most 10-gallon setups hold 7-8 gallons of actual water. That’s the number you’re working with. Plan your stocking around 8 gallons, not 10.

    The Characteristics of a Good Nano Fish

    In the aquarium hobby, very small fish are generally known as nano fish. Here’s what actually makes a fish suitable for a 10-gallon:

    Size

    Fish for small aquariums must stay small as adults. This is the most common mistake beginners make: buying juvenile fish without checking adult size. Ninety percent of the fish at a fish store are juveniles with significant growing left to do. Always look up the adult size before buying.

    Hardiness

    Small tanks are less stable than large tanks. Water parameters swing more easily and more quickly. Hardy species that tolerate parameter fluctuations are a better choice for a 10-gallon than precision fish that need stable conditions. (That said, even hardy fish need a cycled tank. “Hardy” doesn’t mean ammonia-proof.)

    Behavior

    A fish’s behavior matters as much as its size. Aggressive, territorial fish like male bettas can do great in a 10-gallon as long as they’re the only one. Pea puffers are tiny but absolutely cannot be trusted with other fish in a small space. Active schooling fish like zebra danios technically fit but need more swimming room than a 10-gallon comfortably provides. Match the behavior to the space.

    How To Set Up the Aquarium

    After choosing your fish, set up the tank to match what they actually need. Here’s a quick rundown of what matters.

    Filtration

    A filter is non-negotiable in a 10-gallon. For nano tanks I prefer sponge filters or small hang-on-back filters. A canister filter is great for a display tank since it keeps the interior clean. A sponge filter is the best option for shrimp tanks since it won’t suck up babies. Internal power filters and hang-on-backs both work well. Whatever you choose: rate it for 10 gallons minimum and dial back the flow so you’re not blasting nano fish across the tank. Check out our aquarium filter guide for full recommendations.

    Heating

    Most fish on this list are tropical and need a heater. The exception: white cloud minnows. For everyone else, a reliable aquarium heater and a thermometer are both worth the cost. In a 10-gallon, temperature swings happen quickly. A heater that keeps temps stable at 78°F (26°C) is much better than one that cycles up and down 5 degrees a day.

    Lighting

    For fish-only setups, basic LED lighting works fine. For planted tanks (which I strongly recommend for a 10-gallon), choose a light rated for the plant density you’re aiming for. Low-light plants like Java ferns, anubias, and java moss work under basic LEDs. Carpeting plants and stem plants with high growth rates need a quality grow light.

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    Run your lights 6-10 hours daily on a timer. Consistency matters more than intensity for most nano setups.

    Maintenance

    A fully cycled tank is the starting point, not the finish line. Weekly maintenance keeps a 10-gallon healthy. Skip it for two weeks and you’ll see it in your fish.

    Water Quality

    Water quality drops as fish waste and uneaten food accumulate. Weekly 20-25% water changes are the baseline. In a heavily stocked 10-gallon, do it twice a week. Nitrates will build up regardless of filtration quality. The only way out is water changes.

    Testing

    A basic test kit is essential. Test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate weekly during the first three months. Once the tank is stable and cycled, nitrate testing guides your water change schedule. pH and hardness testing matters if your fish have specific needs (CPDs, for example, prefer softer water).

    Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

    The most efficient time to clean the tank is during water changes. Siphon the substrate while pulling water out. One bucket, one job. Algae on the glass comes off with a magnetic scraper. Rinse filter media in old tank water during water changes, never in tap water: chlorine kills the beneficial bacteria you’ve spent weeks building.

    Growing Plants

    Live plants are not optional in a 10-gallon: they’re a stability tool. Plants consume nitrates, provide oxygen, create territory for shy fish, and give fry or shrimp somewhere to hide. A planted 10-gallon is more stable, more forgiving, and better-looking than a bare tank. Five reasons to grow them:

    • Plants provide natural habitat and reduce fish stress
    • Micro-organisms on plant surfaces are food for nano fish and fry
    • Plants oxygenate the water
    • Plants consume nitrates as fertilizer, buying time between water changes
    • A planted nano tank is one of the best-looking setups in the hobby

    Start with low-light plants: java fern, anubias, java moss, hornwort. No CO2 needed. Once you’re comfortable, invest in a quality light and explore aquascaping. A well-planted 10-gallon with a school of chili rasboras is genuinely one of the most striking things you can build in this hobby.

    Where To Buy

    Most species on this list are available at your local fish store. For harder-to-find fish like chili rasboras, CPDs, or specific guppy varieties, trusted online fish dealers are the better option. Buying online eliminates the stress of long transport from a distant fish store and gives you access to healthier, better-conditioned stock.

    What Most 10-Gallon Fish Lists Get Wrong

    • Recommending fish that technically fit the size limit but create aggression or chronic stress in limited space (zebra danios, tiger barbs, some gourami combinations)
    • Not addressing the nitrogen cycle challenge in small water volumes: a 10-gallon can spike from safe to dangerous ammonia levels within 24-48 hours of a feeding mistake or equipment failure
    • Overstocking recommendations: listing 15 fish species and implying you can keep multiples of each is how tanks crash. A 10-gallon is one concept: one betta, one nano school, or one species-only setup. Not all three.
    • Ignoring temperature compatibility: white cloud minnows (58-72°F/14-22°C) cannot share a tank with bettas or chili rasboras (75-82°F/24-28°C). Lists that include both without flagging this are setting people up to fail.

    FAQs

    What fish can I keep in a 10-gallon tank?

    Fish that stay under 2.5 inches as adults, have low bioload, and don’t require extensive swimming room. The best choices are bettas (one male), nano schooling fish like chili rasboras or ember tetras, livebearers like guppies or Endler’s, and dwarf corydoras. Most fish you’ll see at a fish store are too large or too active for a 10-gallon long-term.

    What is the biggest fish you can keep in a 10-gallon?

    An adult male betta at 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm) is the largest fish that works as a permanent resident in a 10-gallon. A dwarf gourami at the same size is another option. Anything larger creates waste and space problems that a 10-gallon can’t handle well.

    Can I keep 8 fish in a 10-gallon?

    Yes, if they’re the right species. Eight nano fish like ember tetras or chili rasboras in a well-planted, properly filtered 10-gallon is a solid setup. Eight guppies, eight zebra danios, or eight fish from different species with incompatible needs is a different story. Species selection matters more than raw numbers.

    How many fish can I have in a 10-gallon?

    The number depends entirely on the species. One male betta is the right stocking for a betta tank. Fifteen to twenty chili rasboras work in a well-planted setup with good filtration. Two or three pea puffers in a species-only tank is the limit for that species. There’s no universal number: choose your concept first, then stock accordingly.

    Do I need a heater for a 10-gallon tank?

    For most fish on this list, yes. The exception is white cloud mountain minnows, which thrive at 58-72°F (14-22°C) and don’t need a heater in most home environments. All other species on this list are tropical and need stable temperatures in the 72-82°F (22-28°C) range. A heater with a built-in thermostat is the best option for a 10-gallon.

    Final Thoughts

    A 10-gallon tank done right is one of the most rewarding setups in this hobby. A 10-gallon done wrong is one of the most frustrating. The difference comes down to one decision made before you ever add water: choosing the right fish for the space, not just the fish that fit the size limit.

    Pick a concept. Build around it. A betta in a planted tank, a colony of chili rasboras, a shrimp setup with a couple of dwarf cories, a pea puffer species tank. These work because they’re designed around what the fish actually need, not just what the gallon count allows.

    The 10-gallon punishes bad stocking decisions faster than any other tank size. It also rewards good ones with a level of detail and intentionality that larger tanks rarely force you to develop. That’s what makes it worth doing right.

    If you’re ready to step up, check out our guide to the best fish for a 20-gallon tank.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    References

  • 15 Best Freshwater Angelfish Types: The Complete Visual Guide to Varieties

    15 Best Freshwater Angelfish Types: The Complete Visual Guide to Varieties

    Freshwater angelfish are one of the species I get asked about most. After 25 years in this hobby, I still find them genuinely fascinating. That elegant, disc-shaped profile stands out in any tank, and the variety of color morphs and fin types selectively bred over decades is remarkable. But here is what most people miss before they buy: angelfish are cichlids. They are territorial. They pair-bond. And they will absolutely eat small fish like neon tetras the moment those fish fit in their mouth. That “angelfish ate my neons” story is as old as the hobby itself.

    Angelfish are not beginner fish. They are sold as beginner fish. Those are two different things.

    All the beautiful color varieties you see at the store (silver, black, koi, marble, gold, platinum) are the same species, Pterophyllum scalare, just selectively bred for color and fin shape. This guide covers 15 of the most popular types along with what actually separates them in terms of care, personality, and what each one demands from your tank setup.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After 25 years in this hobby and time managing retail fish stores, the single most common angelfish mistake I see is pairing them with nano fish. People buy a 4-inch angelfish and think it is peaceful because the store said so. Six months later, when that fish hits 6 inches and starts pairing up, the dynamic changes entirely. Build your stocking list around the angelfish, not around the idea that it will stay calm forever. Altum angelfish are a completely separate conversation. They are expert-only fish that demand very specific soft, acidic water and do not tolerate the kind of parameter swings that scalare varieties handle without issue.

    What Is an Angelfish?

    Freshwater angelfish belong to the genus Pterophyllum, a group of South American cichlids. Three species exist in the wild, though the vast majority of fish in the hobby come from one: Pterophyllum scalare. They have been captive-bred for generations and can live 10 years or more in a well-maintained tank.

    There are three wild species:

    • Common angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare): the species behind almost every color variety in the hobby
    • Altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum): large, expert-only, demands very specific soft acidic water
    • Leopold’s angelfish (Pterophyllum leopoldi): smallest of the three, rarely seen but does well in aquariums

    What People Get Wrong About Angelfish

    The most persistent myth is that angelfish are peaceful community fish. They are relatively calm by cichlid standards, yes. But relative is doing a lot of work in that sentence.

    Angelfish will eat anything that fits in their mouth. At 6 inches with long trailing fins, they look majestic and gentle. But they establish territories, they bully smaller tankmates during spawning season, and a bonded pair will defend their spawning site aggressively against every other fish in the tank.

    The other thing people miss: angelfish need height. Their bodies are deep, not long, and a standard 20-gallon long tank that looks plenty big actually cramps them. A 29-gallon or 55-gallon tall is the right starting point.

    Angelfish Types: A Tier Breakdown

    TIER BREAKDOWN

    Beginner: Silver, Koi, Marble, Gold, Black Lace, Zebra (standard Pterophyllum scalare varieties, forgiving, widely available, bred for aquarium conditions)
    Intermediate: Veil/Superveil (fin damage risk, needs careful tankmate selection), Platinum (shows water quality issues quickly), Blushing, Smokey, Pearlscale
    Advanced: Altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum, expert-only, demands very soft acidic water, does not tolerate parameter swings), Fluorescent/GloAngel (GMO fish, ethical debate aside, fragile), Albino Dantum (hybrid origin, specific needs)

    Angelfish Types: Quick Comparison

    Type / Variety Difficulty Max Size (body depth) Min Tank Key Trait
    Silver Angelfish Beginner 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Classic look, most forgiving
    Koi Angelfish Beginner 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Unique tricolor markings per fish
    Marble Angelfish Beginner 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Irregular black/white patterns
    Black Angelfish / Black Lace Beginner 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Deep black pigmentation, bold presence
    Gold Angelfish Beginner 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Warm golden-yellow tone
    Platinum Angelfish Intermediate 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall White-silver; shows poor water quality
    Veil / Superveil Angelfish Intermediate 6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep 29 gal tall Long flowing fins; nipping risk
    Altum Angelfish Advanced 7 in (18 cm) long, 10 in (25 cm) deep 75 gal tall Expert-only; soft, acidic water required

    15 Angelfish Types for Your Aquarium

    Now let’s get into each type, what makes it unique, and what you actually need to know to keep it successfully.

    1. Altum Angelfish

    Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank
    • Species: Pterophyllum altum
    • Adult Size: 7 inches (18 cm) long, 10 inches (25 cm) deep
    • Color: Silver, gold, and black with three distinct stripes
    • Difficulty: Advanced

    The altum angelfish is not for beginners. Full stop. This is the largest of the three Pterophyllum species and is sometimes called the Orinoco angelfish after its native river system. It demands soft, acidic water in the pH 4.8–6.2 range and does not tolerate the parameter swings that Pterophyllum scalare varieties handle without a problem.

    If you are new to angelfish, start with a scalare variety and come back to the altum after you have a few years of experience. The altum is a spectacular fish when kept properly. But it is an expert-level challenge.

    2. Koi Angelfish

    Koi Angelfish
    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: White, yellow-orange, black (tricolor)
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    The koi angelfish is one of the most popular varieties in the hobby, and for good reason. The tricolor pattern resembles koi carp, and because each fish has slightly different markings, every koi angel is unique. That uniqueness makes them more expensive than standard varieties, but they are not more difficult to keep.

    Koi angelfish are excellent centerpiece fish. They draw attention immediately and hold it.

    3. Panda Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Black and white with variable markings
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    The panda angelfish is a bold black-and-white variant where the pattern distribution varies by individual. Some are mostly white with black patches; others are more evenly split. Care requirements are identical to standard scalare varieties.

    4. Albino Dantum Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum sp. (possibly hybrid)
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: White with red eyes and faint vertical stripe traces
    • Difficulty: Intermediate

    Albino dantum angelfish have a tall body, long fins, and red eyes from the albino gene. The exact species origin is uncertain, and they may be a hybrid. They are visually striking but require good water quality to maintain condition. Red-eyed albino fish are sometimes more light-sensitive, so take that into account with your lighting setup.

    5. Fluorescent (GloAngel) Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare (genetically modified)
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Fluorescent pink
    • Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced

    Fluorescent angelfish were first developed by researchers in Taiwan by inserting coral fluorescent protein genes into the angelfish genome. They are rare, controversial in parts of the hobby, and banned for sale in some countries. From a pure care standpoint, they are not hardier than standard scalare, if anything, they can be more fragile. I list them here for completeness, not as a recommendation.

    6. Chocolate Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Dark chocolate-brown body with silvery-grey head
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Chocolate angelfish have a distinctive two-toned look: dark pigmentation covering most of the body from behind the gills, with a lighter silvery head. The coloration can vary, and some individuals show grey patches on the chocolate sides. They are hardy, beginner-friendly fish that stand out from the more common silver varieties.

    7. Platinum Angelfish

    Platinum Angelfish
    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: All-white with silver sheen
    • Difficulty: Intermediate

    The platinum angelfish is stunning under good lighting: a clean, all-white body with a subtle silver shimmer. The catch is that platinum coloration shows water quality issues clearly. Any yellowing or patchy coloration on a platinum angel is a direct signal that something is off with your water chemistry. These fish need stable, well-maintained parameters to look their best.

    8. Gold Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Warm golden-yellow
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Gold angelfish are selectively bred to express a warm yellow-gold tone across most of the body. They look excellent against green planted tank backgrounds and are among the easier varieties to find at local fish stores. Care requirements are standard scalare.

    9. Marble Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Irregular black, white, and gold marbled pattern
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Marble angelfish display irregular black-and-white (sometimes gold) marbled patterns that make each fish unique. They are one of the best beginner varieties: widely available, hardy, and visually interesting without the extra care requirements of more specialized morphs.

    10. Black Angelfish / Black Lace

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Deep black (black lace shows striping through dark pigment)
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Black angelfish have deep, uniform black pigmentation from heavy melanin expression. Black lace varieties show through-the-dark-pigment striping that gives a lace-like appearance. Both are bold, high-contrast fish that look dramatic in planted or dark-substrate setups. Straightforward to keep.

    11. Silver Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Silver body with four vertical black stripes
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    The silver angelfish is the closest to the wild-type Pterophyllum scalare coloration. Four vertical black stripes on a silver body, clean, classic, and immediately recognizable. If you are new to angelfish, starting with silver is a reasonable choice. They are the most forgiving of the varieties, bred for aquarium conditions for generations.

    12. Zebra Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Silver with multiple vertical black stripes (more than standard silver)
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Zebra angelfish are a multi-striped variant of the silver angelfish, with four or more vertical stripes that give a denser striped appearance. Sometimes called “four-bar” or “six-bar” depending on stripe count. Beginner-friendly with the same care profile as standard scalare.

    13. Blushing Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Pale body with visible reddish-pink gill areas (“blushing”)
    • Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate

    Blushing angelfish get their name from the visible reddish-pink gill coloration showing through transparent scale tissue. The “blush” makes them look delicate, and they are somewhat more sensitive to water quality than fully pigmented varieties. Keep parameters stable and these fish do well.

    14. Smokey Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Smokey grey, darker toward the rear
    • Difficulty: Beginner

    Smokey angelfish have a grey-toned body that deepens in color toward the rear. The effect is subtle compared to the bold contrast of black or marble varieties, but they look excellent in well-lit planted tanks where the grey tones catch the light. Hardy and straightforward.

    15. Veil and Superveil Angelfish

    • Species: Pterophyllum scalare (selective fin breeding)
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
    • Color: Any standard variety; defined by fin length, not color
    • Difficulty: Intermediate

    Veil and superveil angelfish are standard Pterophyllum scalare selectively bred for extended, flowing fins. Superveil is an extreme expression of the same trait. They look spectacular in the right setup. The challenge: those long fins are a target. Any fin-nipping species in the same tank will go for them. Stick with calm, similarly sized tankmates and keep the current gentle so fins stay intact.

    Mark’s Pick: Best Angelfish for Most Aquarists

    MARK’S PICK

    The koi angelfish. Each one is genuinely unique, they are widely available, the care requirements are identical to standard scalare, and they make an immediate visual impact in any community tank. If you want one angelfish to build a setup around, the koi is my recommendation. It delivers the showpiece quality of the species without the extra complexity of altum or the fragility of specialty morphs.

    Angelfish Care: What You Actually Need to Know

    Every scalare variety shares the same core care requirements. The color or fin type does not change what the fish needs.

    • Tank size: 29 gallons minimum, tall format: do not use a standard 20-long. These are tall fish.
    • Temperature: 76–84°F (24–29°C)
    • pH: 6.0–7.5
    • Hardness: Soft to moderately hard
    • Diet: Varied (flakes, pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp), they are not picky.
    • Tankmates: Medium to large peaceful fish only. No small tetras, no neon tetras, no small shrimp.

    Angelfish are pair-bonders. Once a pair forms, the male and female will claim territory, chase other fish away from their spawning site, and become significantly more aggressive. This is normal cichlid behavior and it can surprise people who have kept them as juveniles in a calm community setting.

    Avoid Angelfish If…

    AVOID IF

    You have a tank shorter than 18 inches (46 cm) in height, angelfish bodies are deep and they need vertical space.

    You already have small fish like neon tetras, ember tetras, chili rasboras, or nano shrimp, they will be eaten once the angelfish reaches adult size.

    You want a guaranteed peaceful community setup with no territorial dynamics, even the calmest pair will defend their spawning area aggressively.

    You are new to cichlids and want low-drama fish, consider corydoras or livebearers first, then graduate to angelfish.

    You are interested in altum angelfish specifically but have no experience with soft acidic water chemistry, altums are expert-only fish. Pterophyllum scalare varieties first.

    Should You Get Angelfish?

    Good fit if:

    • You have a 29-gallon or larger tall tank
    • Your stocking list is built around medium-to-large peaceful fish
    • You want a true showpiece centerpiece species
    • You are comfortable with occasional territorial behavior
    • You want to experience pair bonding and potential breeding

    Avoid if:

    • Your tank is a standard 20-long or smaller
    • You have small fish already established
    • You want a stress-free community tank with zero territorial dynamics
    • You are a complete beginner, start with something more forgiving first

    Closing Thoughts

    Angelfish are one of the most rewarding freshwater species you can keep, but they need to be set up correctly from the start. A tall tank, the right tankmates, and an understanding that these are cichlids, not just pretty community fish. Get those three things right and an angelfish will be the centerpiece of your aquarium for a decade.

    If you are ready to add angelfish to your tank, check out what is available at Flip Aquatics or Dan’s Fish, both carry quality freshwater angelfish and can ship directly to your door.

  • Freshwater Fish Compatibility Chart – A Complete Reference Guide

    Freshwater Fish Compatibility Chart – A Complete Reference Guide

    Fish compatibility is one of the first things I look at when helping someone stock a new tank, and it’s where a lot of beginners go wrong by trusting the fish store without checking the numbers. After 25 years of keeping community tanks and fielding compatibility questions from my YouTube audience, I’ve developed a clear decision framework for stocking. A chart is a useful starting point, but it will steer you wrong without understanding the four factors that actually determine whether fish can coexist.

    No chart can tell you if two fish are truly compatible. You still have to think through the variables. This guide gives you both: the charts and the framework to use them correctly.

    Key Takeaways

    • Temperature overlap is the first compatibility check. If two fish need different temperature ranges that don’t overlap, they cannot share a tank. Period.
    • Temperament on a chart is a generalization. Individual fish within the same species vary significantly. Tiger barbs are semi-aggressive as a species; one tiger barb may be a tyrant, another may be timid.
    • Size ratio matters more than most hobbyists realize. Any fish that can fit another fish in its mouth will eventually try.
    • Tank layout solves many compatibility problems. Territorial fish that would fight in an empty tank often coexist fine in a heavily decorated, well-divided space.
    • The order of introduction matters. Adding fish to an established territory always triggers more aggression than adding multiple fish at once to a new setup.

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    I’ve watched hobbyists stock beautiful tanks based on compatibility charts alone, then wonder why everything fell apart within a month. Charts are useful reference tools, but they can’t account for the full picture: your specific fish’s personality, your tank’s layout, your water parameters, and the order you added fish. Use the chart to narrow down your options. Use the framework in this guide to make the final call.

    The Four-Factor Compatibility Framework

    Before you look at any chart, run through these four factors in order. They are listed by priority. If a pair of fish fails the first check, the rest do not matter.

    ASD Compatibility Decision Tiers

    Check 1 (Non-Negotiable): Water Temperature. If the temperature ranges do not overlap by at least 3 to 4 degrees, these fish cannot share a tank. This eliminates goldfish with tropicals, discus with most community fish, and other mismatches right away.

    Check 2 (Critical): pH and Water Chemistry. African cichlids need hard, alkaline water (pH 7.8 to 8.5). South American species like discus and apistos need soft, acidic water (pH 5.5 to 6.8). These groups cannot share a tank, regardless of what any chart says about temperament.

    Check 3 (Important): Size and Predation Risk. Any fish that can fit another in its mouth will eventually try, especially at night. If the size ratio is greater than 3:1, the smaller fish is at risk. This is not speculation. It happens.

    Check 4 (Variable): Temperament and Behavior. This is where the chart is most useful. But remember: species labels are averages. An individual fish can be significantly more or less aggressive than its species profile suggests. Breeding behavior changes everything for cichlids. Tank size, layout, and introduction order all shift the outcome.

    Water Temperature: The First Cut

    This is the check most beginners skip, and it causes more stocking failures than any other single factor. Here are the ranges you need to know before buying anything:

    • Cold water (60 to 72°F / 16 to 22°C): Goldfish, white cloud mountain minnows, weather loaches
    • Standard tropical (72 to 78°F / 22 to 26°C): Most community fish – tetras, barbs, corydoras, livebearers, rasboras
    • Warm tropical (78 to 82°F / 26 to 28°C): Discus, rams, many South American dwarf cichlids, altum angelfish
    • African cichlid range (76 to 82°F / 24 to 28°C): Overlaps with warm tropical, but chemistry requirements don’t

    Goldfish and tropical fish is the most common beginner mistake. A goldfish needs 60 to 68°F (16 to 20°C) to thrive. A betta needs 76 to 82°F (24 to 28°C). There is no temperature where both are genuinely comfortable. One or both fish will be permanently stressed.

    pH and Water Chemistry: The Second Cut

    Most community freshwater fish tolerate a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5. The exceptions are the ones that cause problems when mixed incorrectly.

    • Soft, acidic water specialists: Discus, cardinal tetras, most South American dwarf cichlids (apistos, blue rams). Target pH 5.5 to 6.8, very soft.
    • Hard, alkaline specialists: African cichlids (Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika). Target pH 7.8 to 8.5, very hard.
    • Flexible: Most danios, most barbs, some tetras, livebearers (prefer slightly hard), corydoras. These fish tolerate a wide range and are the backbone of community tanks.

    If you are keeping African cichlids, their tank mates need to tolerate hard, alkaline water. Very few community fish do. This is why most African cichlid tanks are species-only or cichlid-only setups. It is not just about aggression. The water chemistry locks out most other options.

    Size and Predation Risk: The Third Cut

    This one is simple in principle and endlessly ignored in practice. If it fits in the mouth, it will eventually end up in the mouth. This is true even of fish not generally considered aggressive predators. Angelfish are a good example. They are sold as peaceful community fish, and they are, until they are paired with neon tetras. Neons are exactly the size that triggers an angelfish’s feeding response. This combination fails routinely.

    Size ratio guideline: if fish A is more than three times the length of fish B, fish B is at risk. At night, with lights off, fish A will investigate.

    Temperament and Behavior: Using the Chart Correctly

    Temperament labels on charts fall into three broad categories: peaceful, semi-aggressive, and aggressive. Here is what those actually mean in practice.

    • Peaceful: Generally does not initiate aggression. Will still defend territory during breeding. Will still compete for food. May bully smaller or slower fish if they are significantly smaller.
    • Semi-aggressive: May nip, harass, or outcompete tank mates depending on group size, tank layout, and individual personality. Tiger barbs in a school of 15 are very different from tiger barbs in a school of 5.
    • Aggressive: Will establish territory and defend it, often with force. Some can be housed with tank mates that are similar in size and temperament; others (like most large oscars and jack dempseys) do best solo or in species-only setups.

    Freshwater Compatibility Chart

    Below is a general freshwater compatibility reference. Use it after running the four-factor framework above. Keep in mind that “C” (conditional) entries depend heavily on tank size, layout, and individual fish personalities.

    Freshwater Fish Compatibility Chart

    Saltwater Compatibility Chart

    Marine fish compatibility is more complex than freshwater. In a reef environment, fish are constantly competing for shelter and territory, which is a survival behavior hardwired from living in the coral reef. Even fish labeled as “peaceful” can be aggressive in the confines of a home aquarium.

    Personalities vary more in saltwater fish than freshwater. A yellow tang can be genuinely peaceful in one tank and a tyrant in another. This is especially important when determining reef-safe status. Always check species-specific profiles before adding any saltwater fish to an established reef.

    Saltwater Fish Compatibility Chart

    Tank Layout and Introduction Order

    Two variables that charts cannot capture at all are how the tank is set up and the order new fish are introduced.

    Layout matters for territorial fish. Cichlids, bettas, and many semi-aggressive species are significantly less aggressive in a tank with dense decoration that breaks line of sight. Rocks, driftwood, and plants create natural territory boundaries. A cichlid that would destroy tank mates in an empty 55-gallon tank may coexist reasonably well in a well-scaped version of the same tank.

    Introduction order matters for established fish. Any fish already in the tank has established territory. Adding a new fish of the same species or similar temperament into established territory triggers aggression. The established fish sees the new arrival as an intruder. Adding multiple fish at once, or rearranging the tank before introducing new fish, resets the territorial dynamic and reduces fighting significantly.

    Mark’s Pick: Best Tank Layouts for Compatibility

    If you are keeping fish that show any territorial tendency, invest in hardscape. Manzanita driftwood is my recommendation for community and cichlid tanks alike. It creates natural cover, breaks line of sight, and looks genuinely good. A tank with proper hardscape is fundamentally more stable than one without, especially when mixing semi-aggressive species.

    Common Compatibility Mistakes I See Repeatedly

    Avoid These Stocking Mistakes

    • Goldfish with tropical fish. Different temperature needs. This always fails eventually, even if both fish seem okay short-term.
    • Angelfish with neon tetras. Neons are angel food. The size ratio triggers predation even in normally peaceful angels.
    • Bettas with fin-nipping species. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and other nippers will destroy a betta’s fins. The betta cannot defend itself effectively against a fast-moving school.
    • African cichlids with community fish. The water chemistry requirements alone make this wrong. The aggression makes it worse.
    • Discus with most standard tropicals. Discus need 82 to 86°F (28 to 30°C), which is too warm for most community fish. They also need soft, acidic water. This is a specialist tank, not a community tank.
    • Trusting “peaceful” labels for large fish. A “peaceful” oscar is still a large fish with a large mouth. It will eat anything small enough to fit.

    Introducing New Fish to an Existing Tank

    The introduction process is as important as the species selection. A fish that would be compatible under normal circumstances can be rejected if introduced incorrectly.

    The basic protocol: float the bag to equalize temperature, slowly add tank water to the bag over 15 to 30 minutes, then net the new fish into the tank without adding bag water. For more aggressive tanks, rearrange the decor before introducing the new fish to disrupt existing territory claims.

    For any new fish, quarantine for 2 to 4 weeks before introducing to an established tank. This protects your existing fish from disease and gives you time to observe the new fish for illness.

    FAQ

    What freshwater fish are most compatible with each other?

    The most universally compatible freshwater fish are those in the “flexible” chemistry category with peaceful temperaments: corydoras, most danios, smaller gouramis, peaceful tetras (not serpae), cherry barbs, rasboras, and otocinclus. These species tolerate a wide pH range, have similar temperature needs, and are not aggressive toward tank mates of similar size.

    How do you know if fish can live together?

    Run the four-factor check in order: temperature overlap, water chemistry match, size ratio, then temperament. All four need to check out before you commit. If any of the first three fail, do not add the fish regardless of what the compatibility chart says about temperament.

    Which fish should not be kept together?

    The most common incompatible combinations are goldfish with tropical fish (temperature), African cichlids with community fish (chemistry and aggression), discus with standard community tropicals (temperature and chemistry), angelfish with nano fish (predation), and bettas with fin nippers (harassment).

    What is a good fish combination for a community tank?

    A well-balanced community tank uses all three levels of the water column: bottom (corydoras, otocinclus), mid-level (tetras, rasboras, barbs, danios), and surface or upper-mid (gouramis, hatchetfish). Choose species with overlapping temperature and pH requirements. Stick to a consistent size range. Add a centerpiece fish (a single betta, a pair of angels, a small gourami species) if you want a focal point.

    Does tank size affect compatibility?

    Yes, significantly. Many compatibility problems are aggression problems driven by insufficient space. A pair of convict cichlids in a 20-gallon tank is a recipe for conflict. The same pair in a 55-gallon with proper layout may do fine. When in doubt, go bigger and add more decoration. Space and visual barriers resolve more compatibility issues than any other single factor.

    Closing Thoughts

    The charts in this guide are a solid reference, but they are a starting point, not a final answer. Run the four-factor framework before adding any new fish. Check temperature first, chemistry second, size ratio third, then temperament. A tank that passes all four checks can still fail due to individual fish personality, poor introduction timing, or inadequate layout. A tank that fails any of the first three checks will always fail.

    When you are unsure, build the habitat first. The right hardscape, the right water parameters, and the right introduction sequence solve more compatibility problems than choosing a different species. If you have a specific stocking question, drop it in the comments and I’ll give you my honest read on it.

    Quick Compatibility Reference

    Fish Group Temp Range pH Range Temperament Compatible With
    Community tropicals (tetras, rasboras, danios, corydoras) 72 to 78°F (22 to 26°C) 6.5 to 7.5 Peaceful Most other peaceful community fish
    Livebearers (guppies, mollies, platies) 72 to 82°F (22 to 28°C) 7.0 to 8.5 Peaceful Community fish with similar hardness needs
    African cichlids 77 to 82°F (25 to 28°C) 7.8 to 8.5 Aggressive Synodontis catfish, similar cichlids only
    Discus 82 to 86°F (28 to 30°C) 5.5 to 6.5 Peaceful Cardinal tetras, altum angels (specialist only)
    Goldfish 60 to 68°F (15 to 20°C) 7.0 to 8.0 Peaceful Goldfish only. Not compatible with tropicals.

    Shop Quality Fish Online

    These are the suppliers I trust for healthy, quarantined livestock:

    • Flip Aquatics – Quarantine-certified livestock and a strong live arrival guarantee. My go-to recommendation for online fish purchases.
    • Dan’s Fish – Reliable source for a wide range of community and specialty species.
  • Fancy Goldfish Types – 12 Best (With Pictures)

    Fancy Goldfish Types – 12 Best (With Pictures)

    Goldfish are not the easy starter fish the pet store tries to sell you. They’re cold-water fish that produce more waste than most tropical species, need far more space than anyone expects, and can live 10-15 years when kept properly. Most goldfish die within a year because they’re kept in undersized tanks with inadequate filtration. The ones that don’t die early often spend their lives stunted and pale. Kept correctly? They’re some of the most impressive fish in the hobby. Fancy varieties especially, with their flowing fins, dramatic head growths, and body shapes that look like they were designed by someone who never met a real fish, are genuinely spectacular display animals. Here are the 12 best fancy goldfish types and what you actually need to keep them right.

    A fancy goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Key Takeaways

    • Fancy goldfish need 20 gallons (76 L) per fish minimum. This is not a suggestion.
    • Fancy goldfish cannot compete with single-tail (common/comet) goldfish for food. Never house them together.
    • Swim bladder issues are common in round-bodied fancy varieties (ranchu, pearlscale, oranda). Sinking pellets and dietary management are essential.
    • They’re cold-water fish: 65-72°F (18-22°C). Most homes don’t need a heater, but if your house gets warm, you may need a chiller.
    • Lifespan is 10-15 years with proper care. These are long-term commitments, not starter pets.
    • Pond vs. indoor tank: Many fancy varieties do better indoors due to their delicate fins and eyes. Single-tails are better pond candidates.

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    Fancy goldfish get dismissed as beginner fish, which is the biggest reason most people fail with them. These are actually intermediate-level fish with specific requirements around temperature, filtration, tank size, and diet. The swim bladder issue alone eliminates floating foods for many round-bodied varieties. From my time in fish stores, the most successful indoor fancy goldfish setups run heavy filtration (rated 2x the tank volume), weekly 25-30% water changes, and sinking pellets as the primary food. Do that and you’ll have healthy, long-lived fish. Skip any of those elements and you’ll be replacing fish every year.

    What Is a Fancy Goldfish?

    All domestic goldfish are descended from Carassius auratus, wild goldfish native to China and Eastern Asia. Selective breeding over more than 1,000 years produced the dramatic variety we have today. “Fancy goldfish” refers to the double-tailed, ornamental varieties bred for dramatic body shapes, head growths, and fin formations.

    The key distinction between fancy and single-tail goldfish:

    • Single-tail: Common goldfish, comets, shubunkins. Fast, competitive, hardy. Better for ponds.
    • Fancy (double-tail): Fantail, ranchu, oranda, telescope, pearlscale, etc. Slower, rounder body, more delicate. Better for indoor tanks.

    Never mix single-tail and fancy goldfish. Single-tails outcompete fancies for food and will stress them chronically. The fancy fish will lose and eventually starve despite being fed.

    Important terminology before we cover the breeds:

    • Caudal fin: Tail fin
    • Dorsal fin: Fin on top of the back
    • Hood (wen): Fleshy growth on the head, characteristic of oranda, ranchu, and lionhead breeds
    • Telescope eyes: Protruding eyes that extend from the sides of the head
    • Metallic scales: Glossy, reflective, single-colored
    • Nacreous scales: Multicolored, like calico patterns
    • Matte scales: Translucent, no color reflection

    ASD Fancy Goldfish Difficulty Tiers

    Most Manageable: Fantail, ryukin, veiltail (most forgiving body shapes, better swimmers)

    Intermediate: Oranda, ranchu, lionhead, lionchu, black moor (hood and eye considerations)

    Advanced: Bubble eye, telescope, celestial eye, pearlscale (high swim bladder risk, injury risk, require specialized care)

    12 Fancy Goldfish Types

    1. Fantail

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Double tail, egg-shaped body

    The fantail goldfish is the most beginner-accessible fancy variety. It has the classic egg-shaped body with paired fins and a large, flowing double tail, but it’s still a reasonably good swimmer compared to rounder-bodied breeds. If you’re new to fancy goldfish and want something that’s forgiving while still being visually impressive, start here. Available in normal and telescope eye versions, and in a wide range of colors.

    2. Ranchu

    Ranchu Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Well-developed hood, no dorsal fin, rounded back

    The ranchu is a Japanese breed that’s one of the most prized fancy goldfish varieties in the hobby. That prominent hood takes about a year to fully develop. The lack of a dorsal fin gives it a distinctive profile and a slower, more deliberate swimming style. Because they’re weaker swimmers, ranchu are swim bladder risk candidates: feed sinking pellets, not floating foods. Keep them with other similarly slow fancy breeds, not with faster varieties that will out-compete them at feeding time.

    3. Lionchu

    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches (15-25 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: No dorsal fin, head growths from both parent breeds

    The lionchu is a cross between the lionhead and ranchu goldfish, accepted as a breed in 2006. It combines the head growths of both parent breeds with the no-dorsal-fin profile. It’s a newer variety that’s less standardized than the ranchu or lionhead, but well-developed specimens are striking. Like other no-dorsal-fin varieties, it’s a weaker swimmer that needs appropriate tank mates and sinking food.

    4. Ryukin

    Ryukin Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches (15-25 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Pronounced shoulder hump, pointed head, deep body

    The ryukin is an ancient Chinese breed with a body that’s at least 75% of its body length in depth: a massive, deep, almost ball-shaped fish with a prominent hump just behind the head. They’re more active swimmers than ranchu or lionheads and are considered one of the most robust fancy varieties. Good choice for keepers who want dramatic visual impact without the swim bladder fragility of the most extreme body shapes.

    5. Pearlscale

    Pearlscale Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Raised, domed scales, spherical body

    Pearlscale goldfish have a perfectly spherical body that can reach the size of an orange at full growth, covered in raised, dome-shaped scales that give them their name. They’re slow swimmers with one of the most extreme body shapes in the fancy goldfish world, which puts them at high swim bladder risk. They’re beautiful and conversation-starting but require attentive feeding management. Many keepers feed pearlscales once a day maximum, with soaked sinking pellets, to reduce buoyancy issues.

    6. Butterfly Tail

    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Flat, horizontal caudal fins spread at 180 degrees

    The butterfly tail goldfish gets its name from caudal fins that spread flat and horizontal, creating a butterfly wing effect when viewed from above. It’s a breed built specifically for top-down viewing, which makes it especially suited for shallow ponds or shallow tank setups where the overhead view is the primary display angle. Most specimens also have telescope eyes. Best viewed from above: in a standard aquarium from the side, the tail effect is much less dramatic.

    7. Oranda

    Oranda Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 8-12 inches (20-30 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Variable
    • Unique Traits: Large hood/wen, egg-shaped body, large dorsal fin

    Oranda goldfish are among the most recognizable fancy varieties: the egg-shaped body, flowing fins, and prominent head growth (wen) make them unmistakable. They grow larger than most fancy goldfish, reaching 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) in a properly sized tank. The wen continues to develop throughout the fish’s life and can partially obscure vision in some specimens. Keep the wen trimmed if it grows over the eyes: this is a common maintenance task for oranda keepers.

    Mark’s Pick

    If I’m recommending one fancy goldfish for a first-time goldfish keeper, it’s the fantail or the ryukin. Both are robust, reasonably good swimmers, and don’t have the swim bladder fragility of the extreme round-body varieties. They’re also among the most commonly available, so finding healthy specimens is easier. If you want a more dramatic display fish and you’re comfortable with intermediate-level care, the oranda is the move. They’re the most striking fancy goldfish in a standard aquarium setup.

    8. Black Moor

    Black Moor Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: All black (may develop orange patches with age)
    • Unique Traits: Telescopic eyes, all-black coloration

    The black moor is a telescope-eye variety with fully black coloration: one of the most visually distinctive fancy goldfish available. The telescope eyes are fragile and prone to injury. Avoid sharp decorations and abrasive surfaces. The all-black coloration can fade to orange or bronze with age, particularly in warmer water or high light conditions. Buy from a reputable source where you can see the fish’s true color and eye development.

    9. Veiltail

    Veiltail Goldfish in Aquarium
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Caudal fin 1-1.5x body length, no fork, straight trailing edge, sail-like dorsal fin

    The veiltail is a rare breed defined by its extraordinary tail. The caudal fin should be as long as the body (at least), with a straight trailing edge and no fork. The dorsal fin is correspondingly large, giving the fish a dramatic silhouette in the water. Finding truly excellent specimens requires specialty breeders. The long fins require attention: no sharp decorations, no fin-nippers in the tank.

    10. Lionhead

    Lionhead Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large hood covering almost entire head, no dorsal fin, straight back

    The lionhead is the ancestor of both the ranchu and the lionchu, developed centuries before them. It has the same no-dorsal-fin profile but differs from the ranchu in having a straighter back rather than the ranchu’s arched, rounded back. The hood development is extensive, covering the entire head including cheeks. Like other no-dorsal varieties, the lionhead is a slow swimmer that needs careful feeding management and compatible tank mates.

    11. Bubble Eye

    Bubble Eye Goldfish in Aquarium
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches (7.5-13 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large fluid-filled sacs below eyes, no dorsal fin

    The bubble eye is the most delicate fancy goldfish on this list. The fluid-filled sacs below the eyes are fragile: they burst from sharp decorations, aggressive tank mates, or rough handling. They cannot regrow properly if badly damaged. This fish requires a dedicated species-only or very carefully curated setup with no sharp edges, no ornamental decorations with points, and extremely gentle tank mates. It’s also one of the weakest swimmers in the fancy goldfish world. For experienced keepers who want a true specialty fish. Not recommended as a first fancy goldfish.

    12. Sabao (Tamasaba)

    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
    • Color Pattern: Red and white
    • Unique Traits: Single, strongly forked tail, more streamlined body

    The tamasaba (sabao) is a Japanese breed that bridges the gap between fancy and single-tail goldfish. It has a plump, ornamental body but a single, strongly forked tail that gives it better swimming ability than most double-tail varieties. The red and white coloration is striking. This is a better choice for slightly cooler water and mixed-scale setups where the extreme round-body fancies would struggle.

    What Every Fancy Goldfish Tank Needs

    Parameter Requirement Notes
    Tank size 20 gal (76 L) per fish minimum Goldfish are heavy waste producers. Space is critical.
    Filtration Rated 2x tank volume per hour Oversized filtration is not optional with goldfish
    Temperature 65-72°F (18-22°C) Cold-water fish. May need a chiller in warm climates.
    pH 7.0-8.0 Slightly alkaline preferred
    Water changes 25-30% weekly Nitrate target: under 20 ppm before water change
    Diet Sinking pellets primarily Floating foods cause excess air ingestion and swim bladder problems
    Decorations Smooth surfaces only Sharp decor damages fins, eyes, and bubble sacs

    Tank Setup Details

    Tank Size

    20 gallons (76 L) per fish is the standard. That sounds extreme for a fish that’s only 6-8 inches (15-20 cm), but goldfish are stocky and heavy-bodied: they produce waste proportional to their mass, not their length. Two fancy goldfish in a 40-gallon (151 L) breeder tank with solid filtration is a well-balanced setup. The same two fish in a 10-gallon (38 L) tank will be dead in months.

    Substrate

    Fine gravel or sand works well. Goldfish naturally forage at the substrate, pushing gravel around looking for food. Bare-bottom tanks are easier to clean but remove that natural behavior. Avoid large-grain gravel that can be accidentally ingested.

    Filtration

    Run filtration rated for at least twice the tank volume per hour. For extreme-body fancy varieties like bubble eyes or ranchu, pair a canister or hang-on-back filter with a sponge filter for gentler water movement. Goldfish like well-oxygenated water: an airstone in addition to filtration is a good addition.

    Temperature

    The ideal temperature range is 65-72°F (18-22°C). Most homes stay in this range without a heater. If your house runs warm in summer, the tank will need to be in an air-conditioned room or you’ll need an aquarium chiller to keep temperatures appropriate.

    Live Plants

    Goldfish eat most live plants, which eliminates the option for most planted tank enthusiasts. Species they tend to leave alone include java fern and anubias (both have tough leaves they dislike the taste of). Fast-growing plants like duckweed and water sprite can serve as a supplemental food source if you want something green in the tank. Silk plants with smooth surfaces are the safest alternative for delicate-finned varieties.

    Avoid If…

    • You want to mix fancy goldfish with single-tail goldfish (comets, commons): single-tails outcompete fancies for food and cause chronic stress.
    • You’re planning a planted tank: goldfish will eat most live plants. Design for goldfish from the start, not the other way around.
    • You have sharp decorations or ornaments in the tank: fins, wens, eyes, and bubble sacs all sustain damage from sharp edges.
    • You’re feeding floating pellets to round-bodied varieties (ranchu, pearlscale, oranda): surface feeding increases air ingestion and swim bladder problems significantly.
    • Your tank is under 20 gallons (76 L): undersized tanks cause stunting, poor water quality, and shortened lifespans regardless of how often you do water changes.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How long do fancy goldfish live?

    With proper care, 10-15 years is realistic. Some well-kept specimens reach 20 years. The typical lifespan in captivity (including most home aquariums) is closer to 5-8 years, almost always because of undersized tanks or inadequate filtration. Fancy goldfish kept in appropriately sized tanks with regular water changes and proper diet consistently outlive their bowl-kept counterparts by a decade.

    Can fancy goldfish live in a pond?

    Some fancy varieties do well in ponds, particularly fantails and ryukins. However, varieties with telescope eyes, bubble eyes, or extreme head growths are better suited to indoor tanks. Their delicate anatomy makes them vulnerable to predation, UV exposure, and rough weather. Single-tail goldfish are the better pond choice. If you do keep fancies outdoors, ensure the pond has significant depth for temperature buffering and shelter from predators.

    Why does my fancy goldfish float or sink sideways?

    This is swim bladder disorder, most common in round-bodied fancy varieties. Causes include overfeeding, floating foods that introduce excess air, constipation, bacterial infection, or physical compression of the swim bladder from the extreme body shape. First step: fast the fish for 2-3 days, then try feeding skinned cooked peas. Switch to sinking pellets permanently. If the issue persists, consult a veterinarian who treats fish. Chronic swim bladder problems in fancy goldfish are often management issues, not disease.

    What is the easiest fancy goldfish to keep?

    The fantail is the most forgiving fancy variety. It has a less extreme body shape than ranchu, pearlscale, or oranda varieties, which makes it a better swimmer and less prone to swim bladder issues. It’s also widely available, comes in many color forms, and tolerates a broader range of conditions than more specialized breeds. Start with a fantail before moving to more demanding varieties.

    Do fancy goldfish need a heater?

    Usually not. Fancy goldfish thrive at 65-72°F (18-22°C), which most indoor environments maintain naturally. If your home regularly drops below 60°F (16°C) in winter, a low-watt heater set to 65°F (18°C) provides a safety buffer. More commonly, keepers in warm climates face the opposite problem: summer temperatures pushing the tank above 75°F (24°C), which requires air conditioning or an aquarium chiller to manage.

    Closing Thoughts

    Fancy goldfish are rewarding fish for keepers who take the time to understand what they actually need. The myth that they’re easy starter fish causes most of the failures you see with them. Get the tank size, filtration, and feeding protocol right from the start and these fish will reward you with 10-15 years of one of the most visually striking displays in freshwater fishkeeping. Skip the basics and you’ll be replacing fish every year wondering what went wrong.

    If you’re looking to purchase quality fancy goldfish, Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish both stock healthy, properly conditioned specimens. Buying from a source that quarantines and conditions fish before shipping makes a meaningful difference with goldfish, which are already stressed during transport.

  • 15 Best Aquarium Shrimp Types: From Beginner to Advanced (Plus the Copper Warning)

    15 Best Aquarium Shrimp Types: From Beginner to Advanced (Plus the Copper Warning)

    Aquarium shrimp range from bulletproof cherry shrimp to fragile crystal reds that die if you look at them wrong. Choosing the right species is the difference between a thriving colony and an empty tank.

    Start with neocaridina. Graduate to caridina. Skip that order and you will kill expensive shrimp.

    I have been keeping freshwater shrimp for over two decades, and the number one mistake I see is beginners going straight to crystal red shrimp or Taiwan bee shrimp because they look incredible. They do look incredible. They also require a level of water chemistry precision that takes experience to maintain. This guide covers the most popular freshwater shrimp types, sorted by what you actually need to know before you buy them.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After years in this hobby and working at fish stores, the shrimp mistake I see most often is two things. First, people putting copper-based medications in a tank with shrimp, copper kills all shrimp, period, even at trace levels. If you have dosed copper in a tank before, that tank is not safe for shrimp until the substrate is replaced. Second, people mixing different color grades of neocaridina thinking they will stay true to color. They will not. Blue velvets and red cherries are the same species. They will interbreed and within two or three generations, you will have a tank of brown shrimp. Keep color grades separate.

    Neocaridina vs. Caridina: The Fundamental Division

    Every beginner shrimp question eventually comes down to this split. Neocaridina and Caridina are the two main genera in the hobby, and while they look similar, their water chemistry requirements are very different.

    Neocaridina species like cherry shrimp prefer neutral to slightly alkaline water (pH 7.0–8.0) with moderate hardness. They are forgiving of water quality swings and breed readily. Start here.

    Caridina species like crystal red shrimp and bee shrimp need soft, acidic water (pH 5.8–7.0) with low TDS. They are sensitive to parameter changes and will die if water chemistry drifts. These are not beginner shrimp.

    They cannot interbreed with each other. But different color varieties within the same genus can, and will. This matters for anyone trying to maintain color quality in their colony.

    Shrimp Types by Difficulty

    TIER BREAKDOWN

    Beginner (Neocaridina): Cherry shrimp (fire red, painted fire red, red rili), Blue Dream / Blue Velvet, Blue Rili, Sunkist Orange, Yellow Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), Snowball Shrimp
    Intermediate: Amano shrimp (easy care, impossible freshwater breeding), Ghost shrimp (easy but short-lived), Bamboo shrimp (filter feeder, specific feeding needs), Panda shrimp (Caridina entry level)
    Advanced (Caridina): Crystal Red shrimp / CRS, Crystal Black shrimp / CBS, Taiwan Bee shrimp (King Kong, Panda, Blue Bolt), Cardinal / Sulawesi shrimp (very specific parameters)

    Top Freshwater Shrimp: Quick Comparison

    Species / Type Difficulty Max Size pH Range Key Trait
    Fire Red Cherry Shrimp Beginner 1.25 in (3.2 cm) 7.0–8.0 Hardy, easy colony, best starter
    Blue Dream / Blue Velvet Beginner 1.25 in (3.2 cm) 7.0–8.0 Same care as cherry; keep separate
    Yellow Neocaridina Beginner 1 in (2.5 cm) 7.0–8.0 Bright yellow; easy colony
    Amano Shrimp Intermediate 2 in (5 cm) 6.5–8.0 Best algae eater; no freshwater breeding
    Bamboo Shrimp Intermediate 3 in (7.5 cm) 6.5–7.5 Filter feeder; needs fine particle food
    Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS) Advanced 1.25 in (3.2 cm) 5.8–7.0 Stunning; water chemistry precision required
    Taiwan Bee Shrimp Advanced 1.25 in (3.2 cm) 5.8–6.5 Most sensitive; RO water required
    Sulawesi / Cardinal Shrimp Advanced 0.75 in (1.9 cm) 7.5–8.5 Warm alkaline water; very specific needs

    Top 15 Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Types

    1. Fire Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    The fire red cherry shrimp is the best starting point in the hobby. They are hardy, adaptable, and breed readily in stable conditions. A colony of 20 in a planted tank will grow on its own without much intervention. They are Neocaridina davidi, and “fire red” describes the highest color grade, solid, deep red with no transparent patches.

    They do well at temperatures between 60–82°F (15–28°C), though they breed most actively in the 70–78°F (21–26°C) range. One important rule: do not mix fire red cherry shrimp with other color grades of Neocaridina davidi. They will interbreed and the offspring will revert toward wild brown coloration within a few generations.

    2. Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy to care for; impossible to breed in freshwater
    • Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
    • pH: 6.5–8.0 | TDS: 80–450 ppm | GH: 1–15 dGH | KH: 1–10 dKH
    • Diet: Algae-heavy omnivore
    • Breeding: Requires saltwater larval phase, not possible in a standard freshwater tank
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Amano shrimp are the best algae eaters in the freshwater hobby. Takashi Amano introduced them to planted tank culture in the 1980s, and they have been a clean-up crew staple ever since. They tackle green hair algae and black brush algae that most other shrimp ignore.

    The important caveat: Amano shrimp cannot breed in freshwater. Their larvae require a saltwater phase to develop. The shrimp you buy are the shrimp you keep. They do not reproduce in your tank. They live 2–3 years, sometimes longer with good care. Plan to restock rather than breed.

    3. Blue Dream Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Blue Dream”)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Blue dream shrimp are a blue color morph of Neocaridina davidi, the same species as cherry shrimp. Care requirements are identical. They are an excellent choice if you want blue in a freshwater planted tank, which is otherwise hard to achieve.

    Critical rule: Do not mix blue dream shrimp with any other Neocaridina davidi color morph. Blue velvet, blue dream, blue rili, red cherry, they are all the same species. They will interbreed. After two generations, you will have brown shrimp. Keep a single color grade per tank, full stop.

    4. Sunkist Orange Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Orange”)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Sunkist orange shrimp are a bright orange color morph of Neocaridina davidi. The orange coloration pops against dark substrate and green plants. Same care profile as cherry shrimp, same interbreeding risk with other Neocaridina davidi morphs. Great for a single-species nano setup.

    5. Yellow Neocaridina (Neocaridina davidi “Yellow”)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Yellow shrimp are another Neocaridina davidi morph selectively bred for bright yellow coloration. “Neon yellow” and “golden back” are common trade names. Hardy, beginner-friendly, and visually striking in planted tanks. Keep separate from other Neocaridina davidi color grades to maintain color integrity.

    6. Snowball Shrimp (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–400 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 2–8 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Snowball shrimp get their name from the white egg clusters females carry, which look like small snowballs. They are sometimes listed as a separate species (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis) from the standard davidi complex. White body coloration, easy to breed, peaceful. A good option for someone who wants something different from the typical red or blue neocaridina colors.

    7. Red Rili Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Rili”)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Red rili shrimp have a striking two-tone appearance: red head and tail with a transparent or white midsection. The pattern comes from selective breeding for reduced pigmentation in the middle of the body. Same care as cherry shrimp, same species. Keep separate from other Neocaridina davidi morphs.

    8. Ghost Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 100–400 ppm | GH: 3–15 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous scavenger
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy but larvae difficult to raise
    • Planted Tank: Yes

    Ghost shrimp are among the cheapest shrimp in the hobby, often sold as feeder shrimp. They are transparent, which makes them interesting to watch because you can literally see their organs. Hardy and adaptable, they are sometimes recommended for beginners as a test run before investing in more expensive species. They are short-lived (about 1 year) and not particularly colorful, but they do an excellent job as scavengers.

    9. Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)

    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Adult Size: 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm)
    • pH: 6.5–7.5 | TDS: 100–300 ppm | GH: 3–10 dGH | KH: 2–6 dKH
    • Diet: Filter feeder (fine particles, powdered foods)
    • Breeding Difficulty: Requires brackish larval phase
    • Planted Tank: Yes (needs moderate to high flow areas)

    Bamboo shrimp are filter feeders. They fan fine particles from the water current using specialized appendages. This means they need a tank with enough flow to carry suspended particles to them, plus the right food (powdered foods, liquid invertebrate foods, or naturally occurring biofilm in mature tanks). A bamboo shrimp that starts scavenging the substrate instead of filter-feeding is a bamboo shrimp that is not finding enough food. Adjust accordingly.

    10. Vampire Shrimp (Atya gabonensis)

    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Adult Size: 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm)
    • pH: 6.5–7.5 | TDS: 100–250 ppm | GH: 2–8 dGH | KH: 1–4 dKH
    • Diet: Filter feeder
    • Breeding Difficulty: Requires saltwater larval phase
    • Planted Tank: Yes (needs flow areas)

    Vampire shrimp are large filter feeders from West Africa and South America. Despite the dramatic name, they are completely peaceful. Like bamboo shrimp, they need adequate flow and fine particle food. They are nocturnal and tend to hide during the day. Available in several color forms including blue-grey and cream. Impressive animals in the right setup.

    11. Crystal Red Shrimp / CRS (Caridina cantonensis)

    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 5.8–7.0 | TDS: 100–180 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0–2 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, biofilm, shrimp-specific foods
    • Breeding Difficulty: Moderate | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent (active substrate required)

    Crystal red shrimp are one of the most popular advanced shrimp in the hobby. The red-and-white banded pattern is visually striking, and CRS are graded (S, SS, SSS) based on the amount of white coverage. Higher grade means more white and higher price. They require soft, acidic water maintained with active buffering substrate (like ADA Aqua Soil), and they do not tolerate parameter swings. Keep KH near zero, carbonate hardness works against the acidic pH they need.

    12. Crystal Black Shrimp / CBS (Caridina cantonensis)

    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 5.8–7.0 | TDS: 100–180 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0–2 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, biofilm
    • Breeding Difficulty: Moderate | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent

    Crystal black shrimp are the black-and-white version of CRS. Same species, same care requirements, same grading system. They can be kept and bred together with CRS (they are the same species, just different color expressions), or kept in separate tanks if you want to maintain pure lineages.

    13. Taiwan Bee Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis var.)

    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
    • pH: 5.8–6.5 | TDS: 80–150 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0 dKH
    • Diet: Biofilm, powdered foods
    • Breeding Difficulty: Moderate to Hard | Gestation: 30 days
    • Planted Tank: Excellent (RO water + remineralizer required)

    Taiwan bee shrimp include the King Kong, Panda, and Blue Bolt varieties, some of the most visually stunning (and expensive) shrimp in the hobby. They require RO water remineralized with shrimp-specific mineral supplements, active buffering substrate, and extremely stable parameters. This is not a species for someone without experience maintaining soft acidic water chemistry. If your water has any measurable KH, Taiwan bees are not appropriate without a full RO/DI setup.

    14. Cardinal Shrimp / Sulawesi Shrimp (Caridina dennerli)

    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Adult Size: 0.6–0.75 inches (1.5–1.9 cm)
    • pH: 7.5–8.5 | TDS: 100–200 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–8 dKH
    • Temperature: 82–88°F (28–31°C)
    • Breeding Difficulty: Hard
    • Planted Tank: Not typical, lake rock setup preferred

    Cardinal shrimp come from ancient Lake Matano in Sulawesi, Indonesia, a very specific ecosystem with stable warm alkaline water unlike most other shrimp in the hobby. They need warm temperatures (82–88°F / 28–31°C) that would stress most other freshwater shrimp. They are tiny, stunningly colored (red with white spots), and among the hardest to keep long-term. These are specialist shrimp for experienced keepers who want a dedicated Sulawesi species setup.

    15. Indian Whisker Shrimp (Macrobrachium lamarrei)

    • Difficulty Level: Easy to care for, aggressive toward tankmates
    • Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
    • pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 100–400 ppm
    • Diet: Omnivorous; will eat small shrimp and fish
    • Breeding Difficulty: Easy
    • Planted Tank: Yes, but risky with other shrimp

    Indian whisker shrimp are sold as ghost shrimp in many fish stores, and they look similar. The difference is temperament. Macrobrachium species are predatory. They will hunt and eat smaller shrimp and small fish. Do not put them in a community tank with cherry shrimp or nano fish unless you want them eaten. They are best in a species-only setup or with larger, robust tankmates.

    Mark’s Pick: Best Shrimp for Most Hobbyists

    MARK’S PICK

    Fire red cherry shrimp for most people, every time. They are forgiving of the beginner mistakes that kill expensive shrimp: minor parameter swings, occasional overfeeding, tap water with some hardness. Start with 15–20 fire reds in a planted nano, get comfortable with shrimp behavior and water chemistry, and then consider whether you want to try caridina. Most people who rush straight to crystal reds end up with an empty tank and a frustrating first experience. Don’t do that to yourself.

    Critical Rules for Freshwater Shrimp Success

    Copper kills all shrimp. Every medication, plant fertilizer, and tap water treatment that contains copper is lethal to shrimp, even at trace levels. Check every product label before it goes in a shrimp tank. If you have dosed copper in a tank before, replace the substrate before adding shrimp, copper binds to substrate and leaches back into the water column.

    Do not mix Neocaridina color grades. Blue velvet, fire red, orange, yellow, blue rili, they are all Neocaridina davidi. They interbreed freely. Within three generations, you will have brown shrimp. One color per tank.

    Drip acclimate all shrimp. Shrimp are sensitive to rapid parameter changes. Even if the destination tank parameters are good, a sudden shift in pH or TDS during the transfer process can cause molting problems and death. Drip acclimate over at least 30–60 minutes.

    Avoid These Shrimp If…

    AVOID IF

    You want crystal red or Taiwan bee shrimp but have no experience with soft acidic water chemistry, they will die while you are learning. Start with Neocaridina first.

    You have fish in the tank that are large enough to eat shrimp, most tetras, all cichlids, and anything over 2 inches will hunt shrimp. A species-only or very small fish setup is required for shrimp colonies.

    You have dosed copper in this tank at any point, copper binds to substrate and remains lethal for months. Start fresh with new substrate.

    You want Amano shrimp for breeding, they cannot reproduce in freshwater. You are buying them as long-term algae workers, not colony builders.

    You want to mix multiple Neocaridina color grades in one tank, the colony will revert to brown within a few generations.

    Closing Thoughts

    Freshwater shrimp are one of the most rewarding things you can add to a planted tank, when you choose the right species for your experience level and set up the right environment first. The neocaridina group is where almost every successful shrimp keeper starts, and for good reason. They are forgiving, colorful, and genuinely entertaining to watch.

    When you are ready to add shrimp to your tank, check the current selection at Flip Aquatics or Dan’s Fish. Both carry quality freshwater shrimp and ship directly to your door.

  • Worms In Fish Tank – ID Guide for the 4 Main Types

    Worms In Fish Tank – ID Guide for the 4 Main Types

    Finding worms in your aquarium is one of those moments that can cause instant panic. but the reality is that not all worms are harmful, and some are actually beneficial. I’ve encountered every major type of aquarium worm over 25 years of fishkeeping, from harmless detritus worms to parasitic camallanus worms that can devastate a fish population if left unchecked. The most important thing is being able to identify what you’re dealing with quickly so you can take the right action. This guide covers the four main types you’re likely to encounter and what each one means for your tank.

    4 Types of Aquarium Worms

    There are many types of pests that can turn up in aquariums and worms are a common culprit. In this article, I’ll be introducing 4 common types of worms found in fish tanks and ponds.

    For each type, I will provide you with some important information about:

    • Identifying the worm type
    • Where they occur in the aquarium
    • What causes them to spread and multiply
    • How to treat them

    So let’s get started!

    1. Detritus

    Detrius Worms in Substrate

    Detritus worms are common but harmless segmented worms. Many aquarists would rather not have any worms in their tanks, but detritus worms are actually a great member of your tank’s clean-up crew. These tiny annelid worms work hard to break down waste which helps keep the tank clean and the water quality high.

    Detritus worms can reproduce rapidly in poorly maintained aquariums with too much waste and uneaten fish food.

    Appearance

    Detritus worms are segmented (annelid) worms, which puts them in the same family as the regular earthworm.

    They are usually tiny white worms, but there are a bunch of different species, and some of the larger types can grow to an inch in length.

    Where They Occur

    Detritus worms usually live in the substrate, but they can also be found hiding in other places like your aquarium filter media. When the population of detritus worms in an aquarium explodes, they can be seen all over the place, even at the surface of the water.

    Causes

    Detritus worms find their way into aquariums with new fish and plants, or in translocated gravel, filter media, or water. They are present in many fish tanks and really don’t do any harm.

    The detritus worm population increases when your water quality gets really bad and there is plenty of food for them in the form of leftover fish foods and waste. To prevent a detritus worms population explosion, make sure you maintain good water quality and dissolved oxygen levels.

    Treatment Options

    The best way to get rid of detritus worms is to give your tank a thorough cleaning and vacuum the gravel. To prevent detritus worms from coming back, keep up with regular aquarium maintenance and avoid overfeeding and overstocking your tank.

    Chemical treatments are unnecessary for controlling detritus worms.

    2. Planaria

    Planaria Worm Under Microscope

    Planaria worms are another common aquarium pest. These worms occur in both fresh and saltwater and can be quite a headache for fish and shrimp keepers.

    These creatures are a little more sinister than the detritus worms because they are actually predators. These worms eat other small animals and they have been known to eat baby shrimps, as well as recently molted or weakened adult shrimps.

    Appearance

    Planaria worms are flatworms of the turbellaria family. These flattened worms have a triangular head shape and two visible eyes, which makes them pretty easy to identify.

    They come in a variety of colors including white, red, and brown. They are usually seen crawling around because they are unable to swim.

    Planaria worms look similar to the harmless rhabdocoela worms which are also a type of flatworm. Rhabdocoela worms are much smaller, however, and feed on bacteria and algae.

    Where They Occur

    Planaria worms are usually found in or on the substrate, or on the aquarium glass. These flatworms are unable to swim, so you won’t find them in the water column.

    Causes

    Planaria worms get into aquariums from water, materials, plants, and animals brought over from other infected aquariums and water sources. Quarantining new fish and sterilizing new plants before introducing them to your tank is always a good idea.

    Treatment Options

    The best way to get rid of, or at least manage the population of planaria worms is to use either traps or poisons. Some fish will also feed on the planaria in your aquarium.

    3. Anchor

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms, or Lernaea, are common parasites that attach to aquarium fish. These unwelcome creatures are large enough to be seen with the naked eye.

    Appearance

    Anchor worms are visible as string-like structures that trail from the bodies of freshwater fish.

    Their name is a little confusing since these creatures are actually crustaceans, and the worm-like part that is visible is, in fact, the female reproductive structure. They also have an anchor-like structure beneath the fish’s skin that keeps them locked in place.

    Where They Occur

    Anchor worms attach themselves to the skin of freshwater fish. They mostly affect cyprinid fish like goldfish and koi, but there are several different types of anchor worms and many different fish species can be affected.

    Causes

    Anchor worms find their way into aquariums when infected fish are introduced. The best way to avoid this is to quarantine your livestock before introduction to your fish tank. Anchor worms can also be introduced on live plants or in any water transferred to your tank.

    Treatment Options

    You can get rid of anchor worms with a chemical treatment, and by manually removing them from your fish.

    While manually removing them with tweezers can be very effective, it is also risky and stressful for your fish. The wounds this can cause can be more harmful than the parasites themselves, especially in smaller, more sensitive fish.

    Chemical treatments for anchor worms include:

    • Potassium permanganate
    • Hikari Cyropro
    • Dimilin
    • Salt

    You can learn more about them and other parasites in my fish diseases post.

    4. Camallanus

    Camallanus Worm

    Camallanus worms (picture source) are another dreaded aquarium pest. These parasites can be common in livebearers but also affect many different fish species. This infection causes bloating and wasting disease, which can eventually kill your fish.

    Appearance

    Camallanus worms can go undetected in small numbers, but when you do spot them, it can be pretty alarming. These fish parasites are visible as thin red worms that protrude from the fish’s anus. They have the ability to retreat back into the host fish’s body, so they are not always visible.

    Where They Occur

    Camallanus worms are internal parasites, which means they live inside your fish.

    Causes

    Camallanus worms get into fish tanks when bringing in new livestock and fish from other infected sources like pet stores or friends’ tanks.

    Treatment Options

    Camallanus worms can be tough to get rid of! If you notice any infected fish, take action right away.

    The best treatment is to use medications like Fenbendazole. Fortunately, these antihelminthic medicines are safe for inverts like shrimps and snails in the correct doses.

    Levamisole is another popular treatment for these parasites.

    Removal & Treatment

    Worm removal begins with identifying the type of worm you have and identifying the cause. Once you have that worked out, you can put together an action plan!

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel that will guide you. We go over more in detail in this blog. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post every week.

    Let’s take a look at how to control worm populations in your aquarium.

    How To Avoid Introducing Them

    Prevention is always better than cure, just as the old saying goes! Even if you already have a worm problem, preventing further introductions in the future is definitely a good idea. Let’s take a look at how to keep unwanted critters out of your tank:

    • Buy your fish from a trusted source
    • Grow tissue culture plants that are pest-free. (Buceplant stocks a great range of these). Avoid adding wild pond plants to your tank
    • Add as little water from outside sources as possible. Natural waterways and other aquariums are especially risky sources
    • Quarantine your fish before adding them to a community tank
    • Dip your plants to kill any hitch-hiking pests

    Maintaining Good Water Quality

    Water quality can be both the cause of worm infestations, as well a factor that makes a bad situation even worse. The main causes of poor water quality are:

    • Leftover food from overfeeding your fish. Leftover fish food increases nutrient levels in the water and can cause algae growth too
    • Excess waste in the aquarium system from too many fish or a lack of maintenance
    • Plant waste in the form of rotting leaves will also reduce water quality
    • Poor filtration

    Poor water quality creates a great environment for worms to multiply, and also weakens your fish’s immune system, making them more susceptible to attack by parasites.

    To stay on top of the water quality in your tank, make sure you run a good quality filter, perform regular partial water changes, and test your water parameters regularly.

    Using A Gravel Vacuum

    Giving your aquarium a thorough cleaning every few weeks is a very important part of aquarium maintenance. Your gravel vacuum is one of the most useful tools you have for keeping the water quality in your tank high and preventing pest problems.

    By vacuuming the substrate, you not only remove the worms and larvae, but also the leftover food and waste that feeds them.

    Using A Trap

    Trapping can be a very effective means of controlling the population of stubborn worms like planaria. You aren’t likely to remove all of them this way, but it is a great option for aquarists who prefer not to use chemical treatments.

    A worm trap is a device that is baited with a food source like shrimp meat or frozen bloodworms. The planaria worms then enter the trap, allowing you to remove them easily.

    Planaria Trap

    This glass tube is specially designed to trap and remove Planaria

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    Avoid leaving large amounts of bait in your tank for extended periods because this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes and reduce water quality.

    Introducing Predatory Fish

    Zebra Loach in Aquarium

    In the case of non-parasitic worms like planaria and detritus worms, bottom feeders like loaches and other predatory fish can definitely be helpful. These worms will be seen as a tasty snack, and even if the fish can’t eradicate them completely, they will still help to keep the population under control.

    Unfortunately, when it comes to parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms, your fish are the victims and will not be able to help themselves.

    Chemical Treatment

    Sometimes, using medications and chemical treatments is the only option, even though many aquarists would prefer not to.

    Dangerous parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms should be eradicated as quickly and efficiently as possible. There are many products available, and if you’re uncertain about treating your own fish, reaching out to a veterinarian is always a safer bet.

    Here’s a short list of commonly used chemical treatments that are available for aquarium water and fish treatment.

    • Fenbendazole
    My Pick
    Absolute Wormer +

    An aquarium safe Fenbendazole treatment. Works against Flukes, Tapeworms, Nematodes, Planaria, Camallanus and more! 

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    Fenbendazole is an active canine dewormer ingredient that is very effective for wiping out planarians in aquariums.

    • Levamisole

    Levamisole is an antihelminthic medication that can be very effective in the control of nematodes like camallanus worms. Unfortunately, this medication can be dangerous to shrimp and some fish such as loaches if overdosed.

    • Dimilin

    Dimilin x is a very useful product for controlling infestations of anchor worms. This is a very powerful treatment, however, so great care is necessary when calculating dosages.

    FAQs

    Are they bad in a fish tank?

    Not all worms in fish tanks are bad. Some, like the detritus worms, are quite harmless. If you find any worms in your fish tank, make sure to identify them as accurately as possible to decide on the best treatment plan.

    Are they harmful to humans?

    No, fish tank worms are not dangerous to humans. There are, however, some (rare) conditions that humans can get from aquariums, so it’s a good idea to wash your hands after tank maintenance, and avoid swallowing aquarium water.

    Where do they come from?

    Fish tank worms find their way into our aquariums with animals, objects, or water from other aquariums or natural water sources. They tend to come in with plants, fish, water, gravel, and aquarium filter media.

    Are planaria harmful to fish?

    Planaria are usually not harmful to healthy fish. They can attack sick or injured fish, however. Planaria worms are harmful to shrimp and snails, so it is best to get rid of these pests as soon as possible.

    Final Thoughts

    If you’re dealing with an aquarium worm problem, rest assured, you’re not alone. Spotting a worm in your tank can be pretty alarming, but there’s no need to panic. Simply start by identifying the creature, and then be sure to follow the necessary steps or consult a veterinarian if necessary.

    Have you had any aquarium worm issues lately? Let me know how you solved the problem below!


    🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • 7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks – Species That Actually Survive

    7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks – Species That Actually Survive

    

    Goldfish eat plants. That’s not a possibility. That’s a guarantee. If you drop most aquarium plants into a goldfish tank, you’re not setting up a planted tank; you’re setting up a buffet. The honest question isn’t “will goldfish eat my plants?” It’s “which plants can actually survive them?”

    After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve watched more plants get shredded in goldfish tanks than I care to count. Here’s what actually works, and why most of what you read about goldfish plants gets it wrong.

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    In 25+ years keeping goldfish and managing fish stores, I’ve seen this scenario play out dozens of times: someone buys a gorgeous planted tank setup, adds goldfish, and within a week the plants are either eaten down to stems or uprooted and floating. Java fern and anubias are the two I’d bet on surviving. Goldfish don’t like the texture of those thick, rubbery leaves. Floating plants are the other big winner because goldfish can graze on them without destroying them completely, and they grow back fast. One thing most guides skip: goldfish prefer cooler water, 65-72°F (18-22°C), and most tropical plants struggle at those temps. That alone eliminates half the plants people try.

    Why Planting a Goldfish Tank Is Harder Than It Looks

    There are three things working against you when you try to plant a goldfish tank, and you need to understand all three before you spend money on plants.

    Temperature

    Goldfish prefer 65-72°F (18-22°C). That’s significantly cooler than the 75-80°F (24-27°C) most tropical aquarium plants need. Vallisneria, stem plants, many crypts. They’ll survive but grow slowly, or not at all. You need plants that are either coldwater species or at least tolerant of cooler conditions. This eliminates more options than most people realize.

    Plant Placement

    Goldfish dig. They’ll uproot anything planted in substrate, given enough time and motivation. Rooted plants in gravel or sand are a losing battle in most goldfish setups. The plants that work are either floating, attached to hardscape (rocks, driftwood), or bulb plants with roots heavy enough to resist disturbance. If it goes in the substrate, plan for it to come out.

    High Nutrient Loads

    Goldfish are messy. A pair of fancy goldfish in a 40-gallon produces more waste than a full community of tropical fish. Nitrates climb fast. That’s actually good news for plants (the nutrients are there), but it also means fast-growing species can take over quickly. You want plants that absorb nutrients well without becoming an uncontrollable problem.

    They Will Eat Most Plants

    Goldfish aren’t picky. Soft-leafed plants like hornwort, cabomba, and most stem plants will be grazed to nothing. The plants that survive do so because goldfish find them unpalatable (tough leaves, bitter compounds) or because they grow fast enough to outpace the damage. Elodea/anacharis falls into the second category: goldfish will eat it, but it grows back faster than they can consume it. That’s not a solution for everyone, but it works.

    How We Selected These Goldfish Plants

    1. Palatability: less appetizing to goldfish than typical soft-leafed plants
    2. Temperature tolerance: thrives in the cooler water goldfish prefer (65-72°F / 18-22°C)
    3. Hardiness: survives some nibbling without dying
    4. Root security: either floats, attaches to hardscape, or has roots goldfish can’t easily pull up
    5. Growth rate: fast enough to outpace minor goldfish damage

    Should You Try Live Plants in a Goldfish Tank?

    This is the question most plant guides won’t answer directly. Here’s my honest take.

    Live Plants in a Goldfish Tank: Worth It?

    Try It If

    • You’re willing to accept some plant loss
    • Fancy goldfish (slower, less aggressive nibbling than comets)
    • Floating plants specifically, and much harder for goldfish to eat
    • Large tank (55+ gallons) with room for plants to establish

    Skip It If

    • Comet goldfish: relentless plant destroyers
    • relentless plant destroyers
    • You’re on a budget and can’t afford to replace plants
    • Small tank where plants have no room to establish
    • You want a neat, manicured aquascape. Goldfish will ruin it

    What People Get Wrong About Goldfish and Plants

    The biggest mistake: walking into a fish store, picking out beautiful, delicate plants like ludwigia or rotala, and expecting goldfish to leave them alone. They won’t. Soft-stemmed, fine-leafed plants are the equivalent of a salad bar to goldfish. They’ll strip them in days. The second mistake is planting anything in substrate and expecting it to stay put. Goldfish will uproot rooted plants repeatedly until the plant gives up. If you’ve tried plants in a goldfish tank and failed, this is almost certainly what happened.

    The other thing most guides miss: they recommend plants without factoring in temperature. A lot of popular aquarium plants need 75°F (24°C) or warmer to thrive. Goldfish tanks run cooler. Growth stalls. Plants look rough. People assume the goldfish ate them when really they just slowly declined from thermal stress.

    Hard Rule: If you can’t accept that goldfish may eat it, buy silk. Silk plants are the honest answer for goldfish keepers who want greenery without the battle. Just make sure they’re soft enough not to shred your goldfish’s fins.

    The 7 Best Plants For Goldfish

    These are the plants I’d actually put money on in a goldfish tank. Not the ones that might survive: the ones that consistently do.

    1. Java Fern

    Mark’s Top Pick for Goldfish Tanks

    Java fern attached to a rock or piece of driftwood is my number one recommendation for goldfish tanks. The leaves are thick and fibrous, and goldfish mouth them but don’t eat them. It doesn’t go in the substrate, so there’s nothing to uproot. It grows in low light, handles cooler temps fine, and I’ve seen it survive in goldfish tanks where every other plant was destroyed. If I had to bet on one plant surviving a goldfish tank long-term, this is it.

    Editor’s Choice
    Java Fern

    Editor’s Choice

    Hardy, easy to care for, and requires only basic lighting to grow. This is the perfect aquarium plant for beginners!

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua
    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 13.5 inches (34.3 cm)
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Mid to background
    • Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Java fern is the most goldfish-proof live plant I know. The leaves are thick and fibrous, not the soft, tender growth goldfish prefer. Goldfish will mouth java fern, but they almost never actually eat it. Attach it to a rock or piece of driftwood with fishing line or a rubber band, and it takes root on its own over time. No substrate needed. No CO2 needed. Low light is fine.

    Java fern actually rots if you bury the rhizome in substrate, so the goldfish uprooting problem doesn’t apply here. It grows where it attaches. This is exactly the kind of plant a goldfish tank needs: one that doesn’t depend on the substrate, doesn’t need coddling, and doesn’t taste good to goldfish.

    2. Java Moss

    • Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 3-10 inches (7.6-25.4 cm)
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to midground
    • Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Low to medium

    Java moss survives goldfish the same way a lawn survives being mowed: by growing back fast. Goldfish will pick at it. They’ll pull chunks loose and rearrange it around the tank. But java moss has rhizoids instead of roots, sticking to any surface it contacts, and it keeps growing. Most goldfish keepers who fail with java moss made the mistake of not giving it enough to attach to.

    Tie it to a piece of driftwood or a rock. Let it establish. Java moss in low light, cool water, high nutrients. That’s a combination where this plant actually thrives, not just survives. It won’t win a beauty contest in a goldfish tank, but it’ll still be there in six months when everything else has been eaten.

    3. Anubias

    Best Value
    Anubias Barteri

    Best Value

    A forgiving low light aquarium plant that will not be eaten by most fish

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Anubias species
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 4-15.7 inches (10-40 cm) depending on species
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR) depending on species
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to background depending on species
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Anubias is the other plant I’d put alongside java fern as a genuine goldfish-tank survivor. The leaves are thick and slightly bitter. Goldfish learn quickly that they don’t taste right and mostly leave them alone. Like java fern, anubias attaches to hardscape rather than growing in substrate, so the uprooting problem doesn’t apply.

    The one weakness of anubias: it’s slow. Very slow. That means algae can colonize the leaves before the plant has a chance to grow past it. In a high-nutrient goldfish tank, algae management on anubias leaves is an ongoing task. A nerite snail or two in the tank helps a lot. Keep the rhizome out of the substrate. Bury it and it rots.

    4. Marimo Moss Ball

    Budget Option
    Marimo Moss Ball

    Budget Option

    A cheap and easy to care for aquarium plant. Thrives in low light and very low maintenance

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 2.3-12 inches (5.8-30.5 cm)
    • Lighting: Low to moderate (40-125 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to midground
    • Growth Rate: Very slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    The marimo moss ball is technically algae, not a plant, but it earns its spot on this list. Most goldfish will investigate it, mouth it a bit, and then leave it alone. The dense, compact structure doesn’t offer the soft, chewable texture goldfish are looking for. It also performs double duty in a goldfish tank: nitrate absorption is real, and it harbors beneficial bacteria that help keep the tank stable.

    Rotate it occasionally to keep it round. Rinse it gently during water changes. That’s the extent of the maintenance. In a goldfish tank with high nutrients and lower light, marimo actually performs better than in many planted community setups.

    5. Crinum calamistratum (African Onion Plant)

    Crinum Calamistratumn

    A bulb plant that does well against plant eaters due to its odd shape and hard leaves

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Crinum calamistratum
    • Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
    • Size: 36-48 inches (91.4-122 cm)
    • Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Crinum calamistratum, the African onion plant, is one of the most underrated options for goldfish tanks. The leaves are long, curling, and waxy, nothing like the soft, broad leaves goldfish prefer to eat. Goldfish generally ignore it. The bulb anchors it firmly enough that goldfish can’t easily uproot it, though a determined fish in a smaller tank might manage eventually.

    This plant gets big (up to 4 feet / 122 cm), so it’s a background plant only, and only in tanks 40 gallons or larger. If you want something different from the usual java fern and anubias combination, this is worth trying. Needs moderate to high light, which is one reason it’s less commonly used.

    6. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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    • Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
    • Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
    • Size: 6-11.8 inches (15-30 cm)
    • Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Midground, background, or floating
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Water sprite works on a different principle from java fern and anubias. Goldfish will eat it. That’s fine. It grows fast enough to keep up. Use it floating rather than planted in substrate. Floating water sprite grows significantly faster than rooted water sprite because it gets maximum light at the surface. In a goldfish tank with high nutrients and good light, it can grow several inches per week.

    Water sprite also does a solid job processing nitrates, which is genuinely helpful in a goldfish tank. Think of it as a sacrificial plant that earns its spot by pulling nutrients out of the water while it’s being gradually consumed. Replace as needed.

    7. Elodea (Anacharis)

    • Scientific Name: Elodea species
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 4-36 inches (10.2-91.4 cm) depending on species
    • Lighting: Moderate to very high (100-250 PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Background or floating
    • Growth Rate: Very fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Low to high

    Elodea is the “let them eat it” plant. Goldfish love it. The stems are soft and palatable, and goldfish will graze on it constantly. The reason it works isn’t because goldfish won’t eat it. They will. It works because it grows faster than goldfish can consume it, especially when floated at the surface with good light exposure.

    Use elodea as a supplemental food source and a nitrate sponge. It’s not a display plant. It’s utility planting. Float bunches of it, let the goldfish graze, trim or replace stems as needed. In a large goldfish tank with good light, elodea becomes a self-replenishing food supply. Just watch that it doesn’t take over. In ideal conditions it grows aggressively.

    What Most Goldfish Plant Guides Get Wrong

    • Recommending tropical plants that need 75-80°F (24-27°C). Goldfish tanks run 65-72°F (18-22°C) and many tropical plants stall or decline at those temperatures
    • Not being honest that goldfish will eat most plants given the chance. The list of plants they won’t touch is much shorter than most guides admit
    • Skipping floating plants, which are the easiest win in a goldfish tank. Goldfish can graze on them without wiping them out, and they grow back faster than rooted options
    • Recommending delicate plants for comet goldfish. Comets are fast, aggressive grazers that will shred anything soft within days

    Live Plant Alternatives

    Not willing to fight the goldfish-plant battle? Fair enough. Here’s what actually works as an alternative.

    Silk Plants

    If you can’t find a goldfish-proof plant, silk plants are the honest answer. They look decent, goldfish can’t destroy them, and they won’t shred the fins of fancy goldfish the way plastic plants can. The plastic plants with sharp edges are a real problem for goldfish with flowing fins. Stick with silk.

    The tradeoff: silk plants contribute nothing to water quality. In a goldfish tank, that matters. Without live plants absorbing nitrates, you need more frequent water changes. That’s the deal.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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    Bare Tanks and Hardscape

    Some goldfish keepers go fully bare-bottom with only rocks and driftwood. It’s a legitimate approach. Easier to clean, nothing to uproot, and goldfish don’t care. You can still grow anubias or java fern attached to the driftwood (they don’t need substrate). A good piece of driftwood with anubias attached looks sharp and requires zero ongoing plant care beyond occasional algae wipe-downs.

    Live Plants vs. Fake Plants: What’s Actually Better for Goldfish?

    This isn’t a close call in most goldfish setups. Live plants win on water quality. Nitrate absorption and oxygen production are real benefits in a tank that produces as much waste as a goldfish tank does. The trade-off is maintenance and plant losses.

    Live Plants

    Pros

    • Removes nitrates from the water
    • Provides oxygen
    • Entertainment and enrichment for goldfish
    • Contributes to a healthier diet (goldfish that graze on plants are healthier)
    • Looks natural

    Cons

    • Most rooted plants will be uprooted repeatedly
    • Soft-leafed species will be eaten quickly
    • Slow-growing plants can be destroyed before they recover

    Fake Plants

    Pros

    • Goldfish can’t destroy them
    • No plant maintenance
    • Provide shelter and visual interest

    Cons

    • Zero water quality benefit: nitrates keep climbing
    • Plastic plants with sharp edges are a fin injury risk for fancy goldfish
    • Algae builds up on them the same as live plants, without the self-cleaning growth of real plants

    FAQ

    Do goldfish eat all aquarium plants?

    Goldfish will eat most soft-leafed aquarium plants. The ones that survive are those with thick, tough, or unpalatable leaves (java fern, anubias), those that grow faster than goldfish can eat them (elodea, water sprite), or those with a structure goldfish don’t find appealing (marimo moss balls). No plant is completely safe. Some are just more likely to survive than others.

    Do goldfish need plants in their tank?

    No, goldfish don’t require plants to survive. But live plants genuinely help in a goldfish tank: they absorb nitrates (a constant problem with messy goldfish), release oxygen, and provide enrichment. If you can make it work with the right plant species, your tank maintenance schedule gets easier. Without plants, expect more frequent water changes.

    What are the best plants for a goldfish tank?

    Java fern is my top pick: thick leaves goldfish won’t eat, attaches to hardscape, no substrate needed. Anubias is a close second for the same reasons. Floating plants like water sprite and elodea work because they grow faster than goldfish can consume them. Marimo moss balls are the easiest option with almost no maintenance. Avoid soft-stemmed tropical plants.

    Can comet goldfish be kept with live plants?

    It’s very difficult. Comets are faster and more aggressive feeders than fancy goldfish. They’ll destroy most plants quickly. If you want to try, stick to floating plants only. They’re the hardest for comets to completely wipe out. Anything rooted or attached to hardscape is fair game. Most comet goldfish keepers end up with silk plants or bare hardscape setups for good reason.

    What temperature do goldfish plants need?

    Goldfish prefer 65-72°F (18-22°C), which is cooler than most tropical aquarium plants need. Java fern, anubias, java moss, marimo moss balls, elodea, and water sprite all tolerate or prefer cooler temperatures. Avoid plants labeled as “tropical” or those that need a heater to thrive. They’ll struggle in a proper goldfish setup.

    Final Thoughts

    Here’s the reality of goldfish and plants: you’re not creating a planted aquarium in the traditional sense. You’re finding a few species tough enough, fast-growing enough, or unpalatable enough to coexist with fish that treat everything green as a potential meal. That’s a different mindset than planted tank keeping, and accepting it upfront saves a lot of frustration and money.

    Java fern attached to a rock. A clump of anubias on driftwood. Some floating water sprite or elodea for the goldfish to graze on. That’s a realistic planted goldfish tank. It won’t look like an Iwagumi layout, and it’s not supposed to.

    Goldfish don’t live in your planted tank. They live in theirs. Build it around what they are, not what you wish they were.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.