Tag: Freshwater

  • Molly Fish Care: Complete Guide (Including Why Salt and Hard Water Matter)

    Molly Fish Care: Complete Guide (Including Why Salt and Hard Water Matter)

    Molly Fish are sold as beginner fish but they are not. They need hard, alkaline water, real filtration, and more space than most people give them. In soft, acidic water they get sick constantly. In the right water, they are bulletproof.

    Mollies are not hard to keep. They are hard to keep in the wrong water.

    Mollies are not hard to keep. They are hard to keep in the wrong water.

    The biggest challenge with Molly Fish is not keeping them alive. It is managing how fast they multiply.

    The Molly Fish breeds constantly and lives 3 to 5 years. You need a plan for fry before you buy your first pair, or your tank will be overrun within months.

    Livebearers teach you more about population management than any textbook ever will.

    Table of Contents

    Mollies are one of the most underappreciated livebearers. They get lumped in with guppies and platies as beginner fish, which is fair, but there’s something that sets them apart: they’re one of the few freshwater fish that can genuinely tolerate brackish water and even light saltwater. I’ve seen mollies kept successfully in reef sumps. They also do noticeably better with a little aquarium salt and harder water than most fishkeepers bother with. Skip the salt and keep them in soft, acidic water and you’ll eventually see the shimmy disease that mollies are famous for. A wobbling, shimmying behavior that signals stress or illness. Get the conditions right and they’re virtually bulletproof. Here’s the full care guide.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Molly Fish

    The most common mistake I see with molly fishs is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Molly Fishs look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, molly fishs are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything. In my experience, keeping them closer to their natural soft, slightly acidic conditions brings out the best color and longevity.

    The Reality of Keeping Molly Fish

    Breeding is not optional. It is automatic. If you have males and females, you will have fry within weeks. Most new owners are not prepared for the population explosion. You need a plan, whether that is a grow-out tank, selling to a local store, or keeping predators that naturally control numbers.

    Water hardness matters more than people realize. Livebearers come from hard, alkaline water. Keeping them in soft, acidic conditions leads to chronic health problems, fin clamping, and shortened lifespans. If your tap water is soft, livebearers are not ideal unless you buffer the water.

    Male aggression is constant. Males chase females relentlessly. Without a ratio of at least two females per male, the females get stressed, stop eating, and weaken. Overcrowding males does not solve this. It makes it worse.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Buying one male and one female thinking it will be manageable. Within three months you have 30 to 50 fish in a tank designed for 10. Always plan for breeding output before you buy your first pair.

    Expert Take

    If you are keeping livebearers, you are a breeder whether you planned to be or not. Accept it early and have a plan for the fry. That single decision prevents 90% of livebearer problems.

    Brief Overview Of The Molly Fish

    Scientific NamePoecilia sphenops, P. Latipinna, P. Velifera, etc.
    Common NamesMolly, molly fish, sailfin molly, shortfin molly, balloon molly, etc.
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    OriginUnited States of America, Mexico, Colombia, Venezuela, etc.
    DietOmnivorous
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityHigh
    Lifespan2 – 5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful/ semi-aggressive
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size15 gallons
    Temperature Range72 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness15 – 30dH
    pH Range7.0 to 8.5
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to Moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLive bearer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Mostly, may eat soft plants

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NameMolly Fish
    Scientific NamePoecilia sphenops / P. Latipinna
    OrderCyprinodontiformes
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    GenusPoecilia
    SpeciesP. Sphenops

    Molly Fish Origins and Habitat

    The popular molly fish of the aquarium hobby are native to the North and South American countries of the United States, Mexico, Colombia, and Venezuela. They have also been introduced to some Caribbean islands and East Asian countries.

    In nature, the molly fish lives in a huge variety of different habitats. Mollies are euryhaline, which means they can live in varying salinity.

    They are most often found in freshwater environments, temporarily moving into brackish water in coastal areas. They are also occasionally found living and breeding in pure saltwater too, which is really amazing!

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like

    Molly fish are so variable in shape, color, and markings, that it’s tough to describe just what they look like! I’ll go into a little more detail on the various species and breeds in the next section, but speaking, mollies are solidly built mid-sized aquarium fish.

    One very noticeable feature is the unusually thick base (peduncle) to their tails. On the opposite end, their heads are sharply pointed in profile when viewed from the side. The head is wide across when viewed from above, with their mouths positioned right in front of their faces.

    They also have very big eyes, and their lower jaw sticks out a little further than the top. These are the features that are most obvious in all mollies.

    Species

    There are about 40 species in the Poecilia genus, including other well-known livebearers such as the common guppy. A handful of common molly species are popular in the aquarium trade, and they have been bred with each other to produce hybrids and various color morphs.

    Let’s take a look at some of the more common molly fish types:

    Sailfin Molly – Poecilia latipinna

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium

    Sailfin mollies have huge dorsal fins that they can lift up to look just like a sail. This is a natural body feature that the males use to impress the females. These beautiful fish are scientifically known as Poecilia latipinna.

    Sailfin mollies are relatively small, reaching a maximum length of about 5 inches. This species actually occurs naturally in the United States, living wild as far north as North Carolina.

    Shortfin Molly/ Black – Poecilia sphenops

    The shortfin or black molly is one of the most common types of molly. Black mollies are smaller than the sailfin, reaching a maximum size of less than 5 inches.

    In the wild, they are naturally silvery with some color on their fins. The black molly fish is the most popular color breed of this species.

    Giant Sailfin- Poecilia velifera

    The giant sailfin molly fish is the largest of the common species. These Mexican fish can reach a length of 7 inches in the aquarium. They have a huge dorsal fin like the regular sailfin but is told apart by having more fin rays (18-19), and round spots on this fin.

    Varieties

    The various molly species are able to interbreed, and aquarists have crossed them to create an amazing array of different varieties. Selective breeding has refined the results, creating fish with different body shapes, finnage, colors, and patterns.

    Here are a few of the most popular molly types:

    • White Molly Fish

    White mollies are a pure, bright silvery color. They should not be confused with albinos which have more yellowish color and pink eyes.

    • Golden Molly Fish

    Mollies are also available in amazing golden-orange colors. They is uniformly golden colored or flecked with black like the gold dust molly. Specimens that are partially golden and partially white are known as creamsicle mollies.

    • Dalmatian Molly Fish

    Dalmation mollies are whitish fish that are covered in fine black spots, just like dalmatian dogs. The blotching is quite variable, and these fish are sometimes known as marbled, or salt-and-pepper mollies.

    • Lyretail Molly

    Lyretail molly fish have elongated rays at the top and bottom of their tail fins. Lyretail mollies are available in all the different colors varieties, which makes them great for aquarists who want that extra bit of flair in their aquarium.

    • Balloon Molly

    Balloon molly fish come in a variety of colors, including black, white, golden, and marbled. What sets balloon mollies apart is their rounded bodies, almost like an inflated balloon! This is not a natural feature, however, but rather a trait that has been selectively bred for.

    Size

    Molly fish vary in size depending on their species, variety, and gender. Adult mollies vary from a little over 3 inches, right up to about 7 inches in length. Females are larger than males, but this is not always the case.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The typical molly fish lifespan is from two to five years. This depends on a variety of factors, though, including their level of care, diet, and genetics.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Mollies are active and confident fish that are always busy and lively. They are peaceful community fish, but here are a few scenarios in which mollies is semi-aggressive. We have a video from our YouTube Channel that goes into detail about their care and temperature. Check it out below.

    Mollies are very peaceful with the other species of fish in the tank, especially if they are kept in a group. Males is a little aggressive with one another when competing to breed, however. They will also harass the females pretty relentlessly, which is normal behavior for the species.

    If you don’t mind your fish breeding, the ideal stocking rate is a ratio of one male to two or three females. This will take some of the pressure off the females.

    They can also be quite competitive with each other around mealtimes. As long as each fish is getting enough to eat, this isn’t too much of a concern though.

    What Are Good Tank Mates

    Mollies are great fish for a carefully planned hard water community tank. They are highly versatile and these fish thrive in many different setups provided they are happy with the water parameters.

    Choosing the right tank mates for your molly fish is very important too, of course, so read on to learn about some great options.

    Best Tank Mates For Companions

    <a href=Ember Tetra” class=”wp-image-547290″/>

    The first thing to note is that all tankmates should be comfortable in the same hard water conditions that your mollies prefer. Mollies is kept in anything from fresh to saltwater, so I’ve grouped these tank mates according to the type of water they live in.

    Mollies are euryhaline fish, but most other species are not, so never mix other freshwater fish with saltwater tank mates or vice versa.

    Freshwater tankmates

    Brackish Water Tankmates

    Saltwater Tank Mates

    Molly fish are one of the few fish in our hobby than is converted over to a saltwater aquarium. There are steps on how to do this (more on this later). They make great algae eaters, but they are small in comparison to many saltwater fish and may be bullied. Here are a few possible candidates.

    • Other mollies
    • Percula clownfish
    • Peaceful blennies and gobies
    • Royal grammas

    Least Compatible Fish For Companions

    As adaptable and versatile as mollies are, some fish will not get along with them. Take note of the following tips to avoid any problems:

    • Avoid tank mates that need soft acidic water conditions
    • Avoid any aggressive tank mates that could eat or bully your mollies
    • Keeping mollies with shrimp is not recommended
    • Avoid very small and shy fish that are easily intimidated

    What Do They Eat?

    Mollies are omnivorous fish that eat both plant and animal matter. Sailfin mollies in particular need plenty of plant material in their diet. They are not fussy eaters and actually do a great job of cleaning up scraps and uneaten food in the aquarium.

    Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

    Prepared Foods

    Live & Frozen Foods

    Vegetables

    • Zucchini
    • Lettuce
    • Spinach

    Algae

    Mollies love to eat biofilm, and surface scum. They are also known to eat other types of algae like green algae, black beard algae (BBA), hair algae, brown algae, and blue-green algae. This makes them valuable members of your clean-up crew!

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    One of the most common mistakes in the fishkeeping hobby is overfeeding. But how do you know how much food your fish need?

    Mollies don’t waste time when there’s food around, so if they haven’t finished everything after 2 minutes or so, you can assume you’ve given them too much food.

    Sure, they might finish the leftovers later, but what about the food that gets sucked into the filter, settles in the gravel, and otherwise goes to waste? Well, this leftover food rot and results in poor water quality.

    That’s why it is best to feed small amounts 2 or 3 times a day, rather than a large amount just once a day.

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Setting up a great aquarium for mollies is easy because these fish are very adaptable. Nevertheless, there are some important things to know before putting a tank together. Read on for more details.

    Tank Size

    Molly fish is kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, and sometimes even less. In such a small tank, you could keep up to four mollies if you have good water filtration and perform regular aquarium maintenance. A 20 gallon long is a good candidate to start with.

    A larger tank would be a better bet, however, especially if you plan on keeping a bigger school or other species of community fish.

    Plants

    Mollies thrive in planted aquariums. Beware though, mollies are omnivorous fish and they have been known to feed on delicate, soft-leaved plants. Tougher species like these plans below will do well with Molly fish:

    A mix of tall plants like Vallisneria in the background with Java ferns in the midground and some anubias nana petite in the foreground could make a tough and simple but beautiful planted aquascape for these fish.

    Substrate

    Substrate type is not critical when it comes to keeping mollies. Any aquarium-safe sand or gravel will work just fine. If your water is not naturally hard and alkaline, it is a good idea to incorporate some crushed coral into the substrate.

    Decor

    Molly fish are not particular about the decorations in their tanks so you can use your creativity to put together an aquarium that suits your eye.

    Adding some driftwood and rocks is a great way to create a more natural tank environment, but there’s nothing wrong with putting in some aquarium-safe ornaments and decorations too.

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    Water Quality

    Mollies are known as hardy fish. So much so that experienced keepers use them to cycle new fresh and saltwater aquariums.

    Nevertheless, maintaining high water quality is very important if you care about keeping your fish in good health for the long run. Maintaining great water quality for your mollies relies primarily on good filtration and aquarium maintenance.

    Read on to learn more about these, and other important water quality factors.

    Filtration

    A good filtration system means the difference between a sparking, pristine aquarium, and a toxic and dangerous environment for your fish. Aquarium filters work by literally filtering out particles in the water, a process known as mechanical filtration.

    You might not know how much more is happening behind the scenes though!

    Microscopic life forms known as beneficial bacteria take up position and colonize the sponge and other media in the aquarium filter. These beneficial bacteria make their living by feeding on some pretty toxic chemical compounds (like ammonia) that enter the water through fish waste and uneaten food. This process is known as biological filtration and is very important for your fish.

    Air-powered sponge filters, internal power filters, hang-on back filters, and external canister filters can all be used to perform these vital functions. Just make sure the filter you choose is rated to filter your tank size or larger.

    Water Parameters

    Mollies are adaptable to a fairly wide range of water temperatures from about 70ยฐF to a little over 80ยฐF. This means they is kept in unheated aquariums in many cases.

    I would recommend using a heater to keep the water temperature stable in the middle of that range because they are comfortable in tropical climates with warmer water.

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    Mollies can live in fresh, brackish, or even saltwater. In a freshwater aquarium, they must be kept in hard or at least fairly hard water for their long-term health and survival. The alkalinity should be basic, i.e. Above 7.2.

    Even though they have a reputation as hardy fish, mollies are not immune to the effects of ammonia and nitrite in the water. Aim for the following levels:

    • Nitrate (NO3): Less than 20 parts per million
    • Nitrite (NO2): Zero parts per million
    • Ammonia (NH3): Zero parts per million

    Salt

    One of the biggest debates around molly fish care is their salt requirements. Many fish keepers will tell you that you need to add salt to the aquarium to keep these fish happy, but this is not necessarily true.

    The salt these fish require does not necessarily need to be regular aquarium salt (NaCl), even though they are highly tolerant of various salinities. Calcium and magnesium, i.e. The elements responsible for hardening water are essential, however.

    Mixing crushed coral into your substrate or using a product like Seachem Equilibrium is a great way to increase water hardness if your tap water isn’t quite hard enough for mollies.

    Acclimating To Saltwater

    You may have heard that some aquarists keep mollies in saltwater. As strange as this sounds, it’s absolutely true! Properly acclimated mollies make awesome saltwater fish because they are so affordable and do a great job of eating certain kinds of algae. The video above from Everyday Aquarist goes through the process. I’ll explain more below.

    You shouldn’t pick up a couple of mollies from the pet store and drop them straight into a reef tank. Mollies are highly adaptable, but if the change in salinity is too rapid, they could go into osmotic shock.

    The most successful techniques involve slowly replacing the freshwater with salt water over a period of one to two days. This gentle acclimation will be a lot less stressful for the fish. Just be sure to provide the fish with an airstone during this process if they are in a bucket or small tank for acclimation.

    Slow acclimation is achieved by siphoning saltwater in from a tank or bucket and allowing the excess to overflow. The saltwater needs to be introduced very slowly, so a drip rather than a flow is recommended. An accudrip acclimator is used to make the setup easier.

    Get For Acculimation
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    Use a refractometer to measure and monitor the salinity of the water. Specific gravity should not go above 1.025.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is vitally important for keeping healthy molly fish. A weekly partial water change is recommended to keep nitrate levels down, and this is a good time to give the tank a general clean as well.

    Remember to treat your tap water with a water conditioner before adding it to the tank. If your aquarium filter media needs to be rinsed out, use tank water that will not harm the hard-working colonies of beneficial bacteria.

    Testing

    Testing your water parameters regularly is absolutely vital if you wish to keep healthy mollies in the long run. Pick up a master test kit that is used to measure the following parameters:

    • pH
    • Hardness
    • Ammonia
    • Nitrate
    • Nitrite

    These are the most important parameters to keep an eye on if you are keeping mollies as freshwater fish, but if you are keeping them in brackish or saltwater, you’ll need a hydrometer to measure specific gravity too.

    Breeding

    It is very easy to breed mollies. These fish are livebearers, which means the females give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. If you have adult male and female mollies in your tank, and they are happy in their environment, they will breed freely.

    Sexing Mollies

    Successfully breeding molly fish requires having both males and females. But how do you tell the difference?

    Fortunately, sexing these fish is easy once they are old enough to show differences in gender. This takes at least a few months with mollies.

    Let’s take a look at some of the most noticeable gender differences:

    • Male mollies are smaller and more colorful than females
    • Male mollies have a larger dorsal fin than females
    • Female mollies have a well-developed anal fin, whereas the anal fin of males is modified into a narrow, elongated structure known as a gonopodium
    • Male mollies will spend a lot of time trying to entice the females. They will chase and swim around them
    • A pregnant female molly will develop a large, rounded belly with a characteristic gravid spot just in front of the anal fin. This spot will be very difficult to see on a black molly fish

    Raising & Protecting Fry

    Molly fry are very small and vulnerable to being eaten by the other fish (including mollies) in the tank. Ideally, the pregnant female should be moved to a separate breeding tank before giving birth.

    Alternatively, you can use a breeding box in your aquarium to keep the baby fish safe until they are too big to be swallowed. The fry is fed a diet of baby brine shrimp or flake food that is crushed up into a powder form.

    Preventing Breeding

    Female molly fish are pregnant for about 2 months, and can give birth to over 50 fry! This means the population of fish in your tank can rise pretty dramatically if you allow it.

    The best way to prevent breeding is to keep only female fish. Pregnant females can store sperm for a few broods after mating, so separating adult mollies will not stop the female from producing fry right away.

    Health And Disease

    Naturally, you want your molly fish to live a long healthy life, so what are the problems to look out for? Read on to learn more about the health and wellness of these popular aquarium fish.

    Evaluating Their Health

    Evaluating your fish’s health requires careful observation. Start by looking at the fish’s physical appearance. Try to answer the following questions:

    • Do the eyes look swollen or unhealthy?
    • Are the fins torn or clamped against the body?
    • Does the fish have very long stringy white feces?
    • Is the fish covered in white spots or any tiny parasites?
    • Is the fish very thin, or heavily swollen (skip this for balloon molly fish!)

    If the fish looks physically healthy, there are still behavioral warning signs to look out for.

    • Is the fish breathing rapidly?
    • Is the fish having trouble swimming or just shimmying at the top of the tank?
    • Is the fish flashing and scratching its body against the substrate?
    • Is the fish floating or sinking?
    • Is the fish avoiding food?

    If you answer yes to any of these questions, there is most likely a problem with the fish. You can go through these questions before picking out your fish from the pet store, or just for monitoring your fish at home.

    Common Health Issues

    Mollies are most likely to suffer health problems when their tank conditions are not suitable. This is the result of soft water, poor water quality, or a lack of space in a crowded tank.

    Mollies are bred in brackish waters, and the shock of being put into freshwater at the pet store or in your home is another potential problem. These are all causes of stress for your fish, and stress puts them at high risk of common freshwater diseases and disorders like:

    • Ich
    • Columnaris
    • Velvet
    • Popeye
    • Camallanus worms
    • Swim bladder disorders
    • Shimmies/Livebearer/ Molly disease

    Where To Buy

    Mollies are common and easy to find down at your local pet store. They are affordable fish, although you can expect the price to vary depending on breed and color pattern.

    They are also available online of course, which is great for aquarists who don’t have a good local fish store nearby.

    FAQS

    Are they easy to care for?

    Molly fish are moderately easy to care for which makes them a good choice for beginner aquarists who are willing to do some planning. They will thrive if you can provide them with the water parameters and quality they need.

    How many mollies should be kept together?

    Mollies are social fish that should be kept in groups of at least four fish. You should always keep more female mollies than males, so a group of three females and one male would be the lowest recommended number.

    Do mollies need a heater?

    Mollies are thought of as tropical fish, but if you look at their natural distribution, you’ll see that this isn’t strictly true.

    They is kept in an unheated aquarium if the water in your tank stays consistently within their preferred range of 70-82ยฐF. Using a heater will protect the fish against any cold snaps, and keep the conditions more stable, however.

    Can they live in tap water?

    Molly fish is kept in tap water that is naturally hard and alkaline. You should always treat tap water with a water conditioner to neutralize chemicals like chlorine and chloramine, however.

    Can mollies live with Betta?

    It is possible to keep mollies and bettas together, but they are not ideal tank mates. Even though mollies are peaceful fish, they do occasionally nip at fish with large flowing fins.

    Is the Molly Fish Right for You?

    Before you add a molly fish to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Molly Fishs need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the molly fish is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Molly Fish Compares to Similar Species

    Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the molly fish stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The molly fish occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the molly fish or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the molly fish needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Mollies are hands-down one of the best fish in the hobby. They look great, they’re adaptable, and they’re great for eating algae too! I hope this article has cleared up some of the confusion for you and helps you keep your molly fish happy and healthy.

    Do you keep mollies? Tell us about your experiences with these amazing fish in the comments below!


  • 11 Types of Freshwater Eels: What They Actually Are (And What to Expect)

    11 Types of Freshwater Eels: What They Actually Are (And What to Expect)

    Freshwater eels escape from tanks. Every single species. They find gaps you did not know existed and end up on the floor.

    Eels treat every crack in your lid as an exit. Seal them all.

    Freshwater eels are one of those categories where the label is misleading. Most of what gets sold as a “freshwater eel” is actually a spiny eel from the family Mastacembelidae (fire eels, tire track eels, peacock eels), which aren’t true eels at all. That’s not a knock on them; they’re fascinating fish with real personality. But it’s worth knowing what you’re actually buying. A few things apply across the whole group: they’re escape artists that need a tightly sealed lid, they’re mostly carnivores, and many get significantly larger than people expect. After 25 years in the hobby, these are the 11 types I’d point someone toward if they want to add an eel-like fish to their tank.

    What are Freshwater Eels?

    The freshwater eels are nocturnal eels, meaning they prey at night with their rather weak eyesight but an incredible sense of smell. Freshwater eels are catadromous, living their entire lives in freshwater and migrating downstream to spawn in the ocean.

    True freshwater eels belong to the family Anguillidae and the genus Anguilla. Around 15 to 20 freshwater species of eels fall into the Anguilla genus, including the very popular American eels, Moray eels, Spaghetti eels, and European eels. Unlike other types of eels, Anguillidae freshwater eels have scales on their body and they are a crucial source of food in some parts of the world, especially in Europe where they’re bred on farms at large scales.

    Very few species of freshwater aquarium eels acquire the aquarium hobby. Among them, the most popular is from the genus Mastacembelidae, classified as spiny eels, such as the tire track eel and fire eel.

    Some Fun Facts About Freshwater Eels

    Here are some fun and bizarre facts about freshwater aquarium eels.

    An Eel is just elongated versions of fish

    It would surprise you, but many years ago, people confused eels with snakes, because of their uncanny resemblance. However, according to their anatomy, they are just an elongated version of fish.

    However, eels differ from fish in a number of ways, including the absence of pelvic fins and lack of pectoral fins in some eels. Also, the dorsal fins and anal of eels are merged with the tail, forming a single strip running along with most of the eels’ length.

    Ardent Swimmers

    Freshwater eel species are bottom. They prefer holes, the bottom layer of your tank, and other hidden places to bury themselves in the substrate. They love to dig deeper in the dirt and plants to take full advantage to surprise their prey with occasional attacks.

    Below 41ยฐ, Eels Go Torpor

    During extreme winters, when the temperature reaches below 41ยฐF or 5ยฐC, freshwater eel species dip themselves in the mud and enter into a stage, similar to hibernation, known as torpor.

    Diverse

    According to research, there are approximately 800 species of eel. 110 genera, 19 families, and four suborders that we term eels.

    Favorite Treat

    Some cultures such as Japanese, Korean, and Chinese feast on eels. Interesting enough?

    That’s Not All.

    These cultures identify eels as a popular cuisine and it costs way more expensive. In Hong Kong, only a kilogram of eels would cost you around 1000 HKD. That’s because eels are known to boost stamina and energy levels, especially some species of eel, including European eels, jellied eels, longfin eels, etc.

    They Could Easily Kill You

    Have you ever wondered why eel is always served cooked?

    That’s because the blood of eel is highly poisonous and it will kill you. The blood of eels contains a toxic protein that can cramp your body muscles, including the heart, leading to sudden death.

    They Can Swim Backward

    The body of the eel is attenuate shaped, starting with a long, slimy body that ends with a powerful tail. Therefore, their body shape allows freshwater eels to wiggle and swim backward after their prey.

    No One Knows How They Reproduce

    Humans for hundreds of years have tried to figure out how eels “do it”. Want to learn more? Check out this article!

    11 Best Freshwater Varieties to keep as Pets

    Now that freshwater aquarium eels have got all your attention, it’s time to dig a little more about the top 12 types of eels you can keep as pets. We have a video below from our YouTube Channel. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week! We will go into more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s revamp your aquarium with my top recommendations.

    1. Freshwater Moray

    • Scientific Name: Muraenidae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Shy and semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: 6. 150 inches in length (7.6. 400 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 15-30 gallon tank
    • Diet: Carnivore, Prefer live food, such as brine shrimp, earthworms
    • Origin: Tropical and Temperate Waters
    • Temperature: 24. 28ยฐC / 75. 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0 to 9.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Almost impossible in a tank
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If I would have to name one risky freshwater aquarium eel, it has to be the freshwater moray eel (video source). Not because they are a difficult or aggressive fish, but due to their finicky nature. Moray eels are easily stressed if not provided with the right environment. Therefore, if you’re a busy fishkeeper or a novice, I suggest you look out for other options.

    Habitat and Water Conditions

    The origin of freshwater moray eels stems from the saltwater of tropical and subtropical regions, where there are coral reefs in abundance. Freshwater morays are secretive in nature and prefer hiding in the rocks.

    Most of moray eels live in saltwater environments. However, some are found in brackish water and certain species of eel are found in freshwaters. That being said, Moray eels is quite sensitive to freshwaters. Therefore, extensive experience is required to keep them as pets.

    Appearance

    Your first impression of Moray eels would be a scary one. With their snake-like appearance and a long, slender body with the absence of pectoral fins, patterned bodies, and sharp teeth, the first look of Moray eels is no good.

    However, it’s still a popular choice of aquarium fish among many enthusiastic aquarists because of their behavior.

    Behavior

    Hobbyists adore freshwater moray eels for their peculiar behaviors such as team hunting, adaptability, snake-like swimming capability, and sneaky nature that provide an outstanding spectacle in your aquarium.

    I understand it is overwhelming to keep a moray eel in your home aquarium considering their size and extra demanding nature, but they are an absolute treat for your display tanks once their basic needs are met.

    2. Fire

    Fire Eel in driftwood
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: 20 inches (60.8 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 80 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.8-7.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with floating plants

    Although not true eels, fire eels make a beautiful freshwater aquarium fish that you cannot resist. With over 20 inches in length, the fire eel is a distinctive yet huge breed that requires maximum space in your aquariums.

    Origin

    The fire eel is native to South Asia. They are found in the lowland rivers of Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, and Sumatra.

    Appearance

    The fire eels range from dark gray to dull black in color with striking red and yellow horizontal stripes, extending from the head to the tail. The markings on the eel are like that of fire flames painted on a hot rod. Hence, the name.

    Adult Size

    In the wild, the size of fire eels is much bigger than in captivity. And so, you can expect a fire eel to reach a length of around 3 feet or longer. However, in captivity, they can get about 20 inches long, making them the largest species of spiny eels in the aquarium world.

    Due to their big size, they need a bigger space with at least a 55-gallon tank size and water temperature should be around 76ยฐF with a neutral pH.

    Behavior

    Fire eels are shy and prefer to stay aloof most of the time. They are also bottom dwellers, burrowing in the sand. To cater to this behavior, I suggest using sand as a substrate in your aquarium so that they don’t harm their slender bodies.

    Also, like most freshwater aquarium eels, these eels are nocturnal, meaning they are the most active during nighttime. However, you can train your interesting pets to come out during the day to feed and hunt.

    A fire eel likes to feed and swim around during the night. If you keep the room and tank dimly lit, your pet fire eel might come out more often during the day.

    As far as the plants are concerned, these types of eels are messy and voracious eaters. Therefore rooted plants are not suitable for their tank. Hence, keep floating plants to keep them happy.

    Tankmates

    Fire eel is a particularly peaceful fish that remain content in its provided space. However, eels, by nature are predatory creatures, and so your fire eel is dangerous to other smaller freshwater fish. The best tank mates for your eels are:

    1. Angelfish
    2. Medium-to-large Barbs
    3. Green terror
    4. Oscar fish

    Nutrition

    Fire eels, in their natural habitat munch on live food that is accessible to them. Be it small crabs, brine shrimp, insects, snails, or worms. In captivity, things are no different. These eels enjoy live food, including bloodworms, small fish, mussels, live shrimp, and tubifex.

    3. Peacock Eel

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus siamensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 11.8 inches (29.97 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 35 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin:Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.0-8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: difficult to breed
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with floating plants

    If you’re low on space, peacock eels are just for you!

    Many fish stores stock peacock eels because of their increasing demand. However, if you don’t happen to find one, fret not. A peacock eel goes by many names, including striped peacock eel, Siamese spiny eel, and spot-finned spiny eels.

    Origin

    The peacock eels originate from slow-flowing, stagnant bodies of water in Southeast Asia, mainly in India, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Sumatra, and Malaysia. However, they are commonly found in the Mekong, Chao Phraya, and Maeklong river basins. Their native environment allows them to enjoy plant and animal life in abundance. Hence, peacock eels are quite manageable, if their basic needs are met.

    Appearance

    Like other eel species, the peacock eels possess an elongated body with a dark brown back and light brown flanks. As compared to the entire body, the stomach of this spiny eel is much lighter. From the snout to the caudal fin, peacock eels showcase a fine yellow line that looks adds to their grace. The dorsal and caudal fins of the peacock eels feature five eyespots.

    Depending on the nature of their environment, they can grow around 15 centimeters (6 inches) in captivity. However, in their natural habitat, peacock eels can grow up t0 12 inches in length (30 cm long).

    Tank Setup

    These small eel-like fish should be housed in an aquarium of around 21 inches in length and a 20-gallon tank. But when they grow bigger, shift them to a bigger aquarium with a capacity of around 40 gallons or more.

    Aqueon 40 Gallon Breeder

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    Peacock eels are brackish freshwater aquarium eels that prefer some salt in their aquarium. Therefore, I recommend adding one teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water to the fish tank.

    Behavior

    Peacock eels are like your introverted friends that take some time before getting all comfy. Therefore, at first, your eel-like fish might feel distant and aloof, but over time, when their environment is well-suited, they will become very friendly.

    The native environment of peacock eels is densely populated with plants. Therefore, an aquarium with plenty of plants, PVC pipes, and hidden or sheltered spots created by rocks and woods is recommended to keep this eel-like fish happy.

    Food

    Peacock eels are highly selective and moody when it comes to food. There are days when this small fish would take anything and days when nothing pleases it. However, these fish species are nocturnal and forage for food at night. Their favorite diet includes worms, larvae, live brine shrimp, blood worms, and mosquito larvae.

    Tankmates

    Peacock eels are calm creatures that mind their own business, provided the tank mates are not smaller fish that is mistaken for food.

    The compatible tank mates for peacock eels are:

    1. Hatchetfish
    2. Rainbowfish
    3. Larger Rasboras
    4. Swordtail Fish

    4. Starry Night

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus frenatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 15 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 60 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feeds on insects, small fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will accept frozen foods
    • Origin: Wild Central Africa
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.8 . 7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you’re looking for a small, hardy fish, the African starry night eel is your go-to pet for home aquariums.

    Origin

    These freshwater aquarium eels are found in Central Africa, ranging from the Congo River basin to various Rift lakes in the surrounding regions, including the flowing rivers of Tanzania.

    Behavior

    Unlike other freshwater aquarium eels, the starry night eel is hardy and extroverted in nature, making a graceful appearance in your tanks every now and then. However, like most spiny eel species, starry nights are slow eaters. Thus, always ensure the amount of food they get is sufficient to meet their needs. In the wild, they like to munch on small fish, plant matter, and aquatic invertebrates. However, in captivity, starry night eels readily accept meaty food such as frozen krill, nightcrawlers, and frozen bloodworms.

    Appearance

    The starry night eels are small to medium-sized fish that grow up to 15 inches in length and possess a variable color pattern. The most common color of starry night eels is brown with a variable blotched pattern.

    Tank Setup

    These freshwater aquarium eels thrive in water temperatures of around 73ยฐF to 80ยฐF, a pH of 7.8 to 8.4, and a hardness of 7 to 30ยฐH.

    The tank capacity should be at least 30 gallons or larger to accommodate a juvenile starry night eel happily. A larger tank around 55 to 75 gallons is optimum for these eels like fish. Furthermore, the tank should be well-planted with high-quality sand substrate, and lots of hiding places. For example driftwood, rock caves, and PVC pipes.

    The tank should be dimly lit and the water flow should be sluggish to motivate these bottom dwellers to venture out of their caves. Most importantly, a tight-fitting lid should be installed to avoid accidents.

    Tankmates

    Starry night eels make a very peaceful community, so they get along with other fish really well. However, the size of the fish should be taken into consideration. For starry night eels, larger fish make great tank mates.

    1. Rainbowfish
    2. Peaceful cichlids
    3. Large peaceful catfish

    5. Tire Track

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus armatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 30 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, Predator, feeds on insects, fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will accept frozen foods but is finicky at first.
    • Origin: Wild Thailand
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.0 . 8.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Before getting your hands on the tire track eel, beware; these eel-like fish can get ginormous. (up to 30 inches in length)

    Origin

    The tire track eel are a popular species of eel that are found in river systems throughout most South Asian regions, such as Java and Sumatra in Indonesia. They originate from shallow, slow-moving waters, including rivers, South Asian swamp, and flooded forests.

    Appearance

    These freshwater aquarium eels are close cousins of Zig zag eels that are also from Asia. They are quite identical because of their distinct, irregular dark black markings. Therefore, the common name of tire track eel is derived from its distinctive color pattern on either side of the eel that resembles the tire.

    Behavior

    These eel-like fish are semi-aggressive but very personable and intelligent that recognize their owners well. They feed on live food, such as earthworms and frozen foods. Since they double in size in a short time period, it is recommended to keep them with large tank mates.

    6. Yellow Tail Spiny

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus pancalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 7.1 inches in length, 18 cm
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, Predator, feeds on insects, fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will accept frozen foods but is finicky at first
    • Origin: Bangladesh, India, Nepal, and Pakistan
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐ F
    • pH: 7.0-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you want to keep tankmates with your eels, your search ends at yellowtail spiny eel. Only the smallest creatures can fit in the mouths of yellowtail eel, such as ornamental freshwater shrimp. Therefore, they make great community tank fish.

    Originating from the heavily vegetated canals, ponds, and sluggish streams of rivers, these freshwater aquarium eels bring peace and tranquility to your tanks.

    They grow only six to seven inches in length and feed on live food, such as worms, frozen, and freeze-dried food. They are very shy at first, but once they get a hold of the environment, they get comfortable and personable with their owners and tankmates.

    The tank of these eel-like fish should have sand substrate so they can dig and bury themselves in the hiding places. Hence, adding secretive places such as rocky caves, PVC pipes, and driftwood is highly recommended.

    7. Half Banded Spiny

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus circumcinctus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderately difficult
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 7.9 inches (19.99 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 35 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Asia, Mekong and Chao Phraya basins, southeastern Thailand, Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Indonesia
    • Temperature: 75.0 to 82.0ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.0 . 7.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Half-banded spiny eels (video source) are found in Asia, particularly in Mekong, Chao Phraya, Thailand, Malay, Sumatra, and Indonesia. Other common names of these species are Belted spiny eels or Large eels.

    Like most eels, their bodies are elongated with a pointed snout and the dorsal and anal fins extend back to the very small caudal fin. Half-banded spiny eel grows around 8 inches and can fit in a medium-sized aquarium with a lifespan of over 5-10 years. In some rare cases, half-banded eels live up to 15 years and longer, if taken care of.

    8. Senegalus

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 20 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: African countries, including the major Nile River system; these countries include Egypt, Kenya, Nigeria, and Senegal
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.2 – 7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The Polypterus eels (video source), commonly called Reed fish, Dinasaur eels, Bichir, or swamp eels originate from heavily vegetated water systems in Africa and India. They are very common in the native lands that they are mostly found in ditches.

    The Polypterus senegalus eels have jagged dorsal fins, protruding nostrils, and pointed teeth, it’s no wonder why they’re called the swamp dragon.

    The most interesting trait of Polypterus eels is their ability to stay out of water for some time because of their primitive lungs and swim bladder.

    Therefore, if you want your share of prehistoric dinosaur that is both hardy and interesting, the Polypterus eels would make great pets for you.

    9. Bichir

    Bichir Fish
    • Scientific Name: Polypteridae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Calm
    • Adult Size: at least 9.8 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 50 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Freshwater basins in Africa and India
    • Temperature: 75.2-78.8 ยฐF
    • pH:  6.5 – 8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Bichirs are not true eels, instead, they are a family of freshwater ray-finned fishes that resemble eels so much. Bichirs are popular, fancy aquarium fishes inhabiting our planet for a very long time. They are found in the freshwater basins of Africa and India, where the water is muddy and silted bottom. Bichirs have a poor sense of sight but they can navigate freely in brackish waters due to their excellent sense of smell.

    The maximum length of Bichirs in the wild is around 39 inches. However, in captivity, they are much smaller fish, measuring around 9.8 inches.

    The body of Bichirs is covered with flexible scales that look like diamonds. The skin is very strong, protecting the fish from predators. Also, if the skin remains moist, Bichirs can stay out of water for quite some time.

    Bichirs are hardy fish with leg like appendages that doesn’t demand any attention and care. They can even live in dirty water. Therefore, the only difficulty while keeping them in home aquariums is their ability to prey. To cater to this, always place them with tank mates larger than Bichirs, and you’re good to go.

    10. African Ropefish (Erpetoichthys Calabaricus)

    • Scientific Name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: at least 15 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 45 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Western Africa, Congo, Angola, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Benin.
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.0 . 7.6
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    African Ropefish (video from Fluval Aquatics) is a stunning eel-like fish found in Western Africa and collected in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, and Benin.

    It lives in shallow, densely vegetated waters. Therefore, it is recommended to set up an aquarium with aquatic plants and a soft substrate with pieces of driftwood to form hiding places for your African ropefish.

    African ropefish are not territorial. Therefore, a peaceful community fish that gets along with fish larger than their size, including Synodontis species, larger characins, and cichlids such as Severum, Angelfish, some Tilapia species, etc.

    11. Snowflake (Indian Mud Moray Eel)

    Indian Mud Moray Eel
    • Scientific Name: Echidna nebulosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-Aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 23.6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 30 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Coastal Indo-west-Pacific: Andaman Islands, Bangladesh, Hawaii, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, and Sri Lanka.
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.5 – 8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with caution

    The freshwater snowflake eel is often confused with Echidna Nebulosa (Fully marine eel, colloquially known as Snowflake Moray).

    Snowflakes eels (image source from webwetmedia) are found across coastal regions of the Indo-West-Pacific, starting from India to the Philippines, and then to Indonesia.

    These nocturnal predators are found in muddy brackish estuaries and marine waters, only migrating into freshwater to spawn. Unfortunately, because this species is sometimes found in freshwater during the breeding season, it has been marketed erroneously in the trade for many years as the “Freshwater Moray Eel”, when actually it requires brackish or full marine conditions long-term, as it’s visits to freshwaters are only very temporary.

    This large bottom-dweller requires a spacious aquarium with a soft sand substrate in which it can forage about for food and wallow. There should be a multitude of hiding places amongst rocky caves, pvc tubes, and salt-tolerant plants. Filtration should be efficient with areas of moderate water movement, and some quieter resting areas out of the current. Frequent partial water changes are essential to keep nitrate to a minimum.

    Be sure to use a quality marine salt for water changes, and monitor salinity carefully with a hydrometer. Indian Mud Moray Eels are highly predatory, feeding on fish (even fairly large ones) in the wild. However, they may be kept in groups of their own kind in spacious aquaria, if all specimens are of roughly the same size, are added simultaneously, and are provided with at least one shelter each. We do not recommend housing with other fish species, as the eels will strike at them and most will soon be eaten.

    Although their eyesight is rather poor, Indian Mud Moray eels have a keen sense of smell and can detect movement vibrations very well, quickly lunging at any potential prey. This includes the hands, so much care should be taken when carrying out maintenance on the aquarium – they are capable of giving a nasty bite! As with other moray eels, these fish have needle-like teeth and possess a second set of teeth in the throat, known as the pharyngeal jaws which assist in capturing and swallowing prey.

    Although this species is not highly venomous, it does have a mildly toxic mucus coating to the mouth which can cause skin irritation if bitten. Ensure that the tank has tight fitting covers as these fish are accomplished escape artists, which can lead to their deaths. Kept under ideal conditions, the Indian Mud Moray Eel has been known to live in excess of 30 years; they will not survive for long in pure freshwater.

    FAQs

    What kind are in freshwater?

    Freshwater aquarium eels are quite popular among enthusiastic aquarists. Eels in general are saltwater species. However, a few of them, from the family Anguillidae, including European eel migrate from freshwater and spawn in the marine waters of the Sargasso Sea. The five most popular types of freshwater aquarium eels are:

    1. Moray eels
    2. Fire eels
    3. Zig zag eel
    4. Tire track eel
    5. Snowflake Eel

    Can you have a freshwater type as a pet?

    Yes, you can have freshwater eel as a pet as long as their basic requirements, such as tank size, water parameters, and nutritional needs are met.

    Can freshwater types hurt you?

    Eels are not aggressive towards humans. However, they have sharp-pointed teeth that infamously hurt if they bite you.

    How big does a freshwater eel get?

    It depends from species to species. In captivity, the average size of an adult freshwater eel is around 8 inches to 3 feet and over.

    Are there freshwater types for aquariums?

    Freshwater aquarium eels is kept in aquariums. However, the bare minimum tank size for any eel should be at least 35 gallons.

    Are they aggressive?

    Most freshwater aquarium eels are friendly towards tankmates of larger sizes. However, few of them such as moray eels, and fire eels are aggressive and pose a serious threat to their tankmates.

    What size tank do they need?

    Most freshwater aquarium eels need at least a 35-gallon tank of water to be comfortable. Other larger species need an aquarium over 100 gallons to house long-term.

    How much does a freshwater eel cost?

    The cost of freshwater eel varies from species to species. However, it can cost you anywhere around $15 – $500 or more, depending on the size, species, and other characteristics.

    Final Thoughts

    Freshwater aquarium eels are beautiful creatures to adorn your home aquariums. Coming from freshwater rivers of South Asian regions, they are mostly peaceful and get along pretty well with tankmates of their own sizes. However, due to their finicky nature, freshwater aquarium eels might not be a great fit for novice fish keepers.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How to Lower Ammonia in a Fish Tank: 6 Methods That Work

    How to Lower Ammonia in a Fish Tank: 6 Methods That Work

    Ammonia spikes have ended more fishkeeping journeys than almost anything else, and I’ve fielded countless questions about it over the years. Early in my own hobby days I lost fish to ammonia before I understood the nitrogen cycle. it’s a hard lesson. The good news is that once you know what drives ammonia up and how to bring it down fast, it becomes a manageable problem rather than a mystery.

    Ammonia is the number one killer in home aquariums. particularly in new tanks that haven’t finished cycling. I’ve seen it wipe out entire stocks of fish in tanks that looked perfectly fine to the eye. The tricky thing about ammonia is that you can’t see it or smell it at aquarium concentrations, so regular testing is the only way to catch it before damage is done. When I get ammonia readings in a tank, my first move is always Seachem Prime to detoxify it temporarily, followed by a water change and a hard look at what’s driving it. overfeeding, overstocking, an uncycled tank, or a dead animal decomposing somewhere. This guide covers 6 practical ways to bring ammonia down and keep it there.

    The Nitrogen Cycle

    The first rule to having a fish tank is allowing it to cycle. But what does it mean for a fish tank to cycle and why does it matter so much?

    Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists skip fundamental steps in understanding the aquarium nitrogen cycle; they’re told to come back to their local pet store for water testing in a couple of weeks when they’ll be given the thumbs up to add their first fish to the aquarium even if the fish tank isn’t fully cycled. Too many times, this results in suffering and dead fish as well as disappointed hobbyists.

    What Is The Nitrogen Cycle?

    There is a great video that really explains the nitrogen cycle in a fun and entertaining way by Girl Talks Fish below that Iโ€™ll embed for you. Iโ€™ll go more into my boring details below

    The nitrogen cycle is very easy to understand but requires some patience.

    In simple terms, the nitrogen cycle prepares your aquarium for dealing with fish waste and other organics in the water through processes completed by beneficial bacteria. These beneficial bacteria need to grow and populate the aquarium over the course of several weeks until there are enough to convert toxic ammonia to nitrite to less toxic nitrate.

    In more biological and chemical terms, this looks a little more complex. Ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4) are converted to (NO2) by nitrifying bacteria. Different nitrifying bacteria then convert this nitrite into nitrate (NO3).

    In the aquarium setting, the nitrogen cycle will always start with ammonia. If more ammonia enters the system than your population of beneficial bacteria can handle, then your aquarium will go through a cycle or a mini-cycle.

    Why Is It Dangerous?

    Ammonia poisoning is when high levels of ammonia start to burn the internal and external organs of fish and invertebrates. This can result in lethargy, difficulty breathing, loss of appetite, and inflammation.

    Before we dive into how ammonia enters the fish tank, we need to understand why we need to avoid excess levels at all costs.

    It’s important to keep in mind that ammonia is present in the aquarium at all times due to leftover food and fish waste being processed. However, levels can quickly become dangerous whenever they’re not close to 0 ppm.

    If large amounts of ammonia are present in the aquarium, ammonia poisoning can set in almost immediately. If low amounts of ammonia are present in the fish tank over a longer period of time, then it’s still possible for your fish to experience chronic ammonia poisoning.

    The problem is that high amounts of ammonia will translate into high amounts of nitrite, another deadly compound at high levels. At this point, fish may experience nitrite poisoning.

    Nitrite is very similar to oxygen in its chemical structure. Therefore, it is able to enter the bloodstream and connect to hemoglobin where oxygen would otherwise. This quite literally makes the fish suffocate from the inside out, making for a very painful death.

    Similarly, nitrite poisoning will either be immediate or witnessed over the course of a few days depending on water quality. Symptoms are also very similar, which means it’s necessary to test water parameters for a sure diagnosis.

    Ammonia In The Aquarium

    For an established fish tank, ammonia is a bad thing to have. It can quickly cause ammonia poisoning, killing fish and invertebrates by burning internal and external organs. When cycling a fish tank, ammonia becomes the food needed for bacteria to grow and populate. We have a video below form our YouTube channel for reference. We go over more details in the blog. Be sure to subscribe if you like our videos!

    There are many different ways to purposely or mistakingly introduce ammonia into the aquarium:

    1. New fish tank
    2. New livestock additions
    3. Dead organic matter
    4. Overfeeding
    5. Overstocking

    1. New Aquarium

    When starting up an aquarium, you may experience a phenomenon known as new tank syndrome. This is the build-up of harmful nutrients and compounds in the aquarium that can kill fish and deter bacterial growth in extreme cases. The reason for the new tank syndrome is that the aquarium hasn’t had time to establish a healthy population of beneficial bacteria.

    As mentioned before, beneficial bacteria make the conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate possible. If this cycle isn’t allowed to be fully completed, then bacteria will struggle to detoxify these compounds, making for unsafe water conditions.

    However, even if your aquarium is fully cycled, there’s still a chance that it experiences new tank syndrome. This could be due to a weak cycle or overstocking the aquarium too quickly. Both of these circumstances would lead to ammonia entering the aquarium too quickly, overloading the present bacteria populations.

    As a result, a mini-cyle is likely to occur where there are abnormal levels of ammonia and nitrite. This can be very dangerous as it can lead to ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning.

    2. New Livestock Additions

    Saltwater Fish Tank

    Any time a new fish or invertebrate is introduced into the aquarium, ammonia levels will rise. Depending on the stability of the system, this increase in ammonia shouldn’t be seen in tests as beneficial bacteria will quickly adapt to the new influx.

    The problem happens when beginner hobbyists are eager to stock their new fish tank to the brim as soon as the nitrogen cycle is completed.

    New livestock additions should be spaced out over the course of weeks or months to give beneficial bacteria populations enough time to adapt to the increased ammonia levels. Adding too much at once is a sure way to cause a mini-cycle, greatly increasing the chances of losing all of your new livestock!

    3. Dead Organic Matter

    Things die in the aquarium all the time: fish, snails, crabs, and aquarium plants. It’s bound to happen, but it might take some time to notice or you might not be able to reach what’s left before it starts to decompose.

    As decaying organic matter starts to decompose, ammonia is created. While most fish tanks are able to handle these small amounts of ammonia entering the system, it’s always recommended to remove what you can to prevent an ammonia spike from happening.

    However, sometimes you just don’t notice that one of your fish or invertebrates is missing and the breakdown process has already started. Or, the carcass may be so far in the back of the fish tank that you just can’t reach it no matter how hard you try.

    Leaving the dead matter in the fish tank will raise ammonia levels, though not terribly if the system is stable. This is also why a cleanup crew, like saltwater hermit crabs or shrimp, are especially helpful to take care of dead fish and invertebrates before they start to decompose.

    4. Overfeeding

    Freezed Dried Food

    Overfeeding is one of the most common reasons for an ammonia spike in a new fish tank. Fish do not need as much food as we think they do and they often end up overfed.

    Fish food is naturally high in unwanted organics, like phosphate, which can quickly cause algae in the aquarium. However, as uneaten fish food is left to rot at the bottom of the tank, it will also start to release ammonia just like other decaying organic matter. Not to mention that overfeeding will result in much more fish waste entering the water as well, also increasing ammonia levels.

    In general, fish should only be fed as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes. All uneaten fish food should be removed after.

    5. Overstocking

    New livestock additions can overwhelm a biological filter; by the biological filter, we mean the beneficial bacteria that live in the filtration system and other surface areas of the fish tank that make the nitrogen cycle possible. This is why overstocking a tank can be so dangerous.

    Beneficial bacteria can only handle a certain amount of ammonia and nitrite. If levels exceed this rate, then both ammonia and nitrite levels will accumulate. This can easily become the situation if too many fish are put into the aquarium.

    This is also the reason why goldfish need such a large aquarium. These fish are incredibly messy; they are messy eaters and leave a lot of uneaten food, which then results in a lot of fish waste. Because of this, a large filtration system is needed to allow for the most surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

    6 Ways To Lower It In Aquariums

    High ammonia levels in the fish tank should be considered an emergency. The longer your fish and invertebrates are exposed to ammonia, the better the chances of them dying. You need to act fast without making too many changes at once.

    Of course, the best way to remove ammonia from the aquarium is by preventing it in the first place.

    1. Make sure your fish tank is completely cycled. Test water parameters frequently and only add fish when there are no signs of ammonia or nitrite.
    2. Add fish slowly. Do not overload the system and allow beneficial bacteria populations to grow over time as more and more fish are added.
    3. Do not overstock. Understand the ratio of ammonia being produced to aquarium water volume. Beneficial bacteria can only concert so much ammonia at one given time.
    4. Do not overfeed. Though we love to give our fish and invertebrates the best life possible, too much fish waste and uneaten food can lead to a deadly ammonia spike. Remove excess food.
    5. Perform regular fish tank maintenance.

    Otherwise, there are ways to remove ammonia from the fish tank through water changes, increased biological filtration, bacteria supplements, and chemical media.

    1. Water Changes

    The best way to quickly get rid of ammonia from a fish tank is by doing a succession of water changes over the course of a few days. Though this won’t solve the underlying problem causing ammonia to be high, water changes will help keep ammonia levels lower and safer for fish.

    If you find ammonia in your fish tank, don’t panic. Instead, set up a plan over the next few days to do water changes. You don’t want to change out all the water at once as this can create instability in the fish tank and changing parameters that stress out your fish even more.

    Instead, start with a 50% water change. If using tap water, make sure that there is no ammonia in the water as this will only increase the ammonia level. For extra precaution, use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and other harmful compounds, like SeaChem Prime.

    Continue to do 25-50% water changes over the next few days until the ammonia level reaches 0 ppm. At that point, you will need to identify the cause of the ammonia spike, be it a mini-cyle, a dead fish, or too much uneaten food, and treat accordingly.

    2. Increased Biological Filtration

    If it isn’t an emergency, then the best way to remove ammonia from a fish tank naturally is to allow beneficial bacteria to do their thing. This is known as biological filtration, which can be increased by increasing the surface area in the aquarium; this is different from chemical or mechanical filtration.

    Specific biological filtration media has also been created to facilitate bacterial growth and lower ammonia levels. This works by creating porous media, similar to live rock, that creates more surface area.

    The majority of beneficial bacteria live in the filtration systems of our fish tanks. However, they also live in the nooks and crannies of live rock and other aquarium decorations.

    Some of these products include:

    • SeaChem Matrix. This product grows aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to control ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. One liter provides >~700 m2 surface area and can be used in freshwater and saltwater setups.
    • Biohome Ultimate. Meant for saltwater and freshwater hang on the back, canister, and sump filtration systems, Biohome Ultimate media influences both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria growth with added trace elements, like iron and manganese.
    • MarinePure. MarinePure is meant specifically for direct use in saltwater fish tanks to reduce ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. It can be used under the substrate or in areas of high flow, including the filtration system.
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    Biological filtration media is a great and minimally invasive addition for buffering surface area in a hang on the back, canister, or sump filtration system. Still, this media will take some time to populate by bacteria and will not immediately lower ammonia levels.

    3. Add Beneficial Rock (AKA Live or Dry Rock)

    Porous rock is a great way to add biological capacity to your aquarium. I’ll cover both the saltwater and freshwater side below.

    Adding Live/Dry Rock To The Saltwater Aquarium

    Live rock is the foundation for any saltwater fish tank setup. Not only does it provide food and shelter for fish and invertebrates, but it houses a plethora of bacterial life that is essential for facilitating the nitrogen cycle.

    One way to jumpstart a nitrogen cycle in a saltwater fish tank is to add live rock. There are two reasons for this.

    One, live rock will already have beneficial bacteria present on it when added to your tank. This means that you’ll start with a population that can seed the rest of the fish tank. The other reason is that there is bound to be some die-off when transferring the live rock between fish tanks. This die-off will contribute to ammonia levels, starting and supporting a nitrogen cycle.

    But how does live rock help with lowering ammonia levels?

    In the same way, adding live rock to an established aquarium can introduce more beneficial bacteria that will start to process ammonia and nitrite. There may still be some die-off, but the already established bacteria should be able to handle the sudden influx; if concerned about die-off, quarantine the rocks in a separate system with the same parameters.

    As a result, the beneficial bacteria population is immediately expanded, increasing conversion rates and lowering ammonia levels.

    Live rock can be expensive though, and there’s always the possibility of unintentionally adding hitchhikers at the same time. Luckily, dry rock is widely available and very easy to add to the saltwater fish tank. For quality dry rock, check out Real Reef Rock. Be careful of going 100% dry rock as this can result in an outbreak of dinos in your tank.

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    The idea behind adding dry rock instead of live rock is to increase surface area. Though this dry rock won’t come with established bacteria, it gives more space for the already-existing bacteria to populate. This will take more time to lower ammonia levels than would live rock but can be a great way to increase biological filtration on a budget.

    Adding Porous Dry Rock To The Freshwater Aquarium

    In the same way, dry rock, like lava rock, can be added to the freshwater fish tank to get rid of ammonia. However, it’s not common to see live lava rock for sale at your freshwater aquarium store; for this, you may need to reach out to fellow hobbyists or a specialty fish store.

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    There is some discussion about the efficacy of lava rock being good for lowering ammonia levels in the aquarium. It’s a porous rock, but some hobbyists have seen little to no effect and worry about what the rock might be made from. Lava rock can also be sharp, which can easily injure fish and invertebrates.

    Adding live or dry lava rock will either help seed a fish tank with more beneficial bacteria or provide more space for bacteria to grow, ultimately lowering ammonia levels. How effective and safe this rock is to use is up for question, though.

    If you want a completely safe and effective way for controlling ammonia levels in your freshwater fish tank, then a more effective method is to add live plants.

    Freshwater Aquaraium Plants

    Planted Aquarium EI

    Live aquarium plants are biological filters in themselves. Plants use many nutrients and compounds in their physiological processes, including harmful ammonia and nitrite. They will also help take up some nitrate, which can reduce the need for frequent water changes.

    Freshwater aquarium plants require macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen may be taken up in the form of ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. Because of this, as well as for the exchange of aesthetic and fish tank oxygenation, many hobbyists use plants to improve water quality and to lower the ammonia level.

    So much so that more experienced hobbyists even use freshwater aquatic plants to undergo a fish-safe nitrogen cycle, called a ghost cycle. A ghost cycle is when the fish tank undergoes the nitrogen cycle with little to no observation of changing parameters. This can make ammonia not show up on an ammonia test kit even if it is present in the aquarium.

    A ghost cycle can be pretty difficult to accomplish; there is a constant balance between adding more ammonia to sustain the plants while understanding how many plants are needed to reduce ammonia levels.

    4. Upgrading Your Filtration System

    Whether you’re changing from one fish tank to another or switching from a hang on the back filter to a full sump system, upgrading your filtration system can help your tank handle ammonia levels. Remember, the increased surface area will allow more space for bacteria, thus increasing ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion.

    Not only does a larger filtration system give more space for bacteria, but it also allows for additional equipment that can further help balance water quality. More refined equipment, such as refugiums and protein skimmers, may be added to help uptake nutrients. Extra space can also be used for more biological filtration to increase surface area even more. For freshwater tanks, you can look into a high quality canister filter.

    When upgrading a fish tank, be sure to hang on to any filtration media used, especially biological filtration. Like live rock, aquarium filter media holds a plethora of bacteria that can be used to almost immediately cycle a new aquarium. There is still a chance that a mini-cycle occurs, but with slow stocking and water quality monitoring, it is rare to see high ammonia levels, if at all.

    5. Bacteria Supplements

    Bacteria supplements are very useful for hobbyists struggling with water parameters or that need to quickly cycle an aquarium. While they’re great at what they do, they should not be mistaken for the answer in a bottle to all your tropical fish tank’s problems.

    Bacteria supplements are one way of introducing the necessary bacteria into the aquarium to convert ammonia to nitrate. They have been used to facilitate the nitrogen cycle in new tanks and can help stabilize systems with too much ammonia; bacteria supplements should never be seen as an ammonia remover.

    Though bacteria supplements might seem like the answer to your problem, they don’t treat the underlying cause of a high ammonia level. This is why experienced hobbyists strongly recommend beginners go through the full stages of the aquarium cycle to understand how ammonia moves through the aquarium.

    If struggling with elevated ammonia levels, some recommended bacteria supplements are:

    • FritzZyme TurboStart. This freshwater bacteria supplement is designed to immediately reduce ammonia and nitrite levels to prevent fish death. It can be used to jumpstart an aquarium cycle or to save a fish tank suffering an ammonia spike. As the bacteria in this supplement are living, their shelf life is limited to four months.
    • Instant Ocean Bio-Spira. A saltwater bacteria supplement, Bio-Spira contains nitrococcus, nitrosomonas, nitrosospira, and nitrospira bacteria to reduce ammonia and nitrite levels. Bio-Spira is shelf-stable but should be used almost immediately.
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    6. Chemical Media

    Lastly, chemical media may be used to help reduce ammonia levels in saltwater or freshwater aquarium. However, this should be the last option for beginner hobbyists as, again, chemical media will not solve the reason for the high ammonia level.

    Chemical media can be a simple and inexpensive method for quickly removing ammonia from a fish tank though in case of an emergency. Simply place the media in an area of high water flow and replace it as directed.

    Here are some of the best chemical media products available to quickly reduce ammonia levels:

    • Zeolite. Zeolite, specifically from Marineland, removes ammonia as well as other toxins in the aquarium water, including chloramine. It is best used in freshwater aquariums and will last about a month.
    • SeaChem Purigen. Purigen polishes water of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for the freshwater and saltwater fish tank. It changes color when depleted, but can easily be recharged.
    • Fluval Ammonia Remover. This product specifically targets and reduces ammonia through natural ion exchange. Fluval Ammonia Remover is designed to work best in freshwater aquariums.
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    Seachem Purigen

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    Final Thoughts

    Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists experience an ammonia spike in their aquariums due to impatience and poor understanding of the nitrogen cycle. The growth of beneficial bacteria and conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate can take a long time and we get the hurry!

    However, it’s better to end up with a stinky, empty fish tank than to come home to a bunch of dead fish. Allow your aquarium to fully cycle but know how to lower your ammonia level in case of an emergency.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian Almond Leaves are not decoration. They release tannins that lower pH, provide antibacterial properties, and create the blackwater conditions that bettas, shrimp, and many South American fish evolved in.

    Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

    Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

    Indian almond leaves are one of those simple additions that make a real difference in the right setup. I use them in betta tanks. They release tannins that soften the water and lower pH, mimicking the blackwater environments bettas come from, and the antifungal properties are genuinely useful for fin health. Betta breeders swear by them, and for good reason. They work well in shrimp tanks too; shrimp graze on the leaves as they decompose and seem to thrive in the tannin-rich water. The downside is purely aesthetic: the water turns tea-colored, which some people love and others don’t. Here are 5 solid reasons to consider adding them.

    What Are Indian Almond Leaves?

    Indian Almond Leaves Outside

    Indian almond leaves are leaves from the Terminalia catappa tree, also known as the Indian almond tree, which is native to parts of Asia, Africa, and Australia. These Indian almond leaves, also known as catappa leaves, are collected, dried, and sold as they are very beneficial to a variety of freshwater life and are essential for replicating blackwater ecosystems in the home aquarium.

    Blackwater ecosystems are defined by their tea-colored, murky waters. Underneath these dark surfaces, the chemical and medicinal properties of the water help sustain a plethora of tropical fish and invertebrates, including wild relatives of the famous betta fish (Betta splendens).

    This natural environment gets its color from decaying organics that leak tannins and tannic acid. In the aquarium, tannins is released in the same way, especially by Indian almond leaves.

    What Do Indian Almond Leaves Do In The Aquarium?

    Not only do Indian almond leaves help replicate the natural ecosystems of many tropical fish, but there is a large list of benefits that come with using them in the aquarium.

    Some of these benefits include:

    • Antifungal and antibacterial properties
    • Lower pH levels and soften water
    • Comfort shy and stressed fish
    • Quarantine system

    Some of the only drawbacks to using Indian almond leaves are the blackwater appearance they give in the aquarium and their acidic properties. However, both is controlled through water changes.

    1. Antifungal And Antibacterial Properties

    Tannins are naturally found in many trees and plants as a form of protection. They are mainly stored in the bark and new leaves where they act to defend the plant from infectious bacteria and fungi that try to enter.

    In the fish tank setting, tannins act in the same way by decreasing the number of pathogens in the water column while bolstering the immune system of the fish. So much so that Indian almond leaves have been seen as a great natural addition to aquariums struggling with fin rot. Fin rot is caused by bacteria or fungus and Indian almond leaves have been a great natural remedy.

    While Indian almond leaves won’t entirely cure fin rot without any extra maintenance, they definitely increase the chances of a full recovery.

    2. Lower pH Levels And Soften Water

    Many tropical fish have adapted to the standard parameters of aquarium water no matter where they once originated from: 7.0 pH and 4-8 dKH. While most fish can live in these pristine conditions indefinitely, wild-caught and sensitive species will thrive in soft and acidic conditions that replicate their natural origins.

    As the Indian almond leaves break down in the aquarium, they will start to release tannins and tannic acid that lower pH and general hardness. This is a gradual breakdown, and there’s little to no fear that water parameters will change too quickly for your fish to handle.

    Still, it is best to test parameters regularly to make sure that your fish don’t get stressed out.

    3. How Much Do They Lower pH?

    The more Indian almond leaves that you add to your aquarium, the more your pH will drop due to the tannic acid being released. However, how much your pH will drop depends on some external factors that will be unique to every individual tank.

    One of these factors is the carbonate hardness (KH) of the water being used. KH is the parameter that dictates how much or how little pH is buffered at any given time. An improper KH will make changing pH levels difficult and volatile. Though this won’t make a big difference when using just a leaf or two, it’s definitely something to track with long-term use.

    Other factors include the rate of decomposition, water change schedule, and use of activated carbon.

    In general, it is expected for pH levels to drop 1-2 ppm with the use of Indian almond leaves. This will result in pH levels settling between 5.0-7.0, which is perfect for blackwater fish species.

    It is very important to keep track of pH levels when using Indian almond leaves. PH is measured on a logarithmic scale, which means that small changes in value can have much greater effects than anticipated.

    4. Comfort Shy And Stressed Fish

    A bed of Indian almond leaf litter is the home of and food for many tank inhabitants. Small fish will love to take shelter in and feed on a leaf litter substrate, potentially spawning and raising nearly hatched fry. Shrimp especially love being able to forage on the undersides of the leaves and will feel comfortable reproducing in the coverage they provide.

    In addition, many fish and invertebrates will appreciate dimmed lighting conditions, which is achieved through the dark brown color of the water. If you’re struggling with particularly shyer fish or invertebrates, try adding some Indian almond leaves!

    5. Quarantine System

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves won’t be the only thing that cures your fish of fin rot or another fungal or bacterial infection, but they can definitely help speed up recovery and prepare fish for transfer to a new aquarium.

    Indian almond leaves can safely be added to the quarantine or hospital fish tank system to bolster immunity, prevent some low grade infections, and improve water quality. Some fish keepers have abandoned all other forms of conventional aquarium medicines for the natural alternative of Indian almond leaves or another source of tannins.

    Along with Indian almond leaves, water changes will still need to be kept up with to continue to maintain water parameters. Activated carbon may also need to be run for better control of parameters.

    However, Indian almond leaves is a simple yet effective addition to the quarantine system for extra protection against bacterial and fungal infections.

    Can You Use Too Many?

    Indian almond leaves is a great addition to most fish tanks for their medicinal properties and the comfort they bring to fish.

    Some hobbyists may choose to only use a few leaves here and there for aesthetic purposes while others would rather create a full leaf litter substrate that is a few inches deep. There are many ways to use Indian almond leaves, but it’s very difficult to actually use too many.

    The main side effect of using too many Indian almond leaves is having very dark brown water. At some point, it will become difficult to view fish and submersed plants might even have difficulty getting the light that they need to photosynthesize.

    Overly dark water can easily be fixed through a series of partial water changes or by adding activated carbon to the aquarium. Gradually the dark water will lighten in color and pH levels and water hardness will also return to where they originally were.

    This is where things can become slightly problematic, though. Indian almond leaves lower pH and the hardness of the water. The more Indian almond leaves that are used, the more that those levels will decrease in the fish tank.

    It is very difficult to overdose Indian almond leaves in that aspect, and, you will lose sight of your fish before the water becomes too acidic for them to handle. Also, remember that most of the fish found in these black waters have been known to survive in acidic water conditions down to 3.0 ppm or less.

    While these levels is deadly if changed too fast, Indian almond leaves make this change in water quality slow and steady for your fish to safely adapt.

    How To Use

    Indian almond leaves are inexpensive and is found at your local pet or fish store. It is recommended to use one medium-sized leaf for every 10 gallons of water. Two may be used for the same amount of water for a stronger effect.

    Indian almond leaves take only a few days to sink to the bottom of the tank. After that, they will start to noticeably decompose over the course of a month or two. There is no need to remove the Indian almond leaves at any point and they is left to decompose until there’s nothing left. Once your Indian almond leaves are nearly all gone, add a few new ones and start the process over.

    Want all the benefits of Indian almond leaves but don’t necessarily want the mess? Here is how to make Indian almond leaf extract.

    How To Make Extract

    Indian almond leaf extract is exactly what it sounds like: a concentrated dose of tannins and tannic acid excreted from Indian almond leaves. Instead of adding Indian almond leaves directly to the aquarium, an extract is a great way to get all the benefits and natural look without any of the mess.

    Here are the steps to making your own extract from Indian almond leaves (you can also see the video above by AquatikGuru):

    1. Prepare dried botanicals, including Indian almond leaves, walnut leaves, and common beech leaves as well as birch and alder cones; Indian almond leaves are the most common type of leaf to use in the aquarium setting as it has been the most researched. Make sure to purchase other dried botanicals from a trusted pet store.
    2. Place a handful of these botanicals into a heat-safe container that is sealed.
    3. Pour boiling or hot water over the Indian almond leaves and seal the container for at least 24 hours. The water will turn dark brown.
    4. At this point, the leaves may be strained out of the dark water. The Indian almond leaves may be placed directly into the aquarium for use or boiled again for another batch of Indian almond leaf extract; the only downside to reusing leaves is that they will start to decompose very quickly, which can make for a cloudy dose.
    5. The recommended Indian almond leaf extract dosage is one ounce for every one gallon of water. More than this may be added at any given time as long as pH levels are carefully tracked.

    If you don’t feel like making your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then there are many products available for sale in-store and online. Some options include premade tannin concentrates or powders. However, there are a few problems with these.

    The main problem with using Indian almond leaf powder is that you can’t be sure of the ingredients. Unfortunately, it is possible that the powders are treated with dyes to enhance their appearance or that they include other unknown ingredients. While these dyes and ingredients aren’t likely to hurt fish if they’re from a reputable seller, dyed powder won’t give the full benefits that Indian almond leaves could otherwise.

    If you don’t want to make your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then a premade liquid concentrate would be the best option for receiving the full benefits at a reasonable cost. Many fish keepers find that liquid Indian almond leaf products don’t contain a lot of product though and is expensive for the amount you’re getting; many extracts come in small bottles only meant to treat a small fish tank one time.

    To find the best liquid Indian almond leaf extract, make sure that you’re getting a product that treats hundreds or thousands of gallons of water while remaining under a $25 budget. Otherwise, it is much more worth it to make your extract from separately purchased Indian almond leaves.

    Are They Good For All Fish?

    No, Indian almond leaves are not good for all fish. While many of the beloved fish, like tetras and angelfish, available in pet stores come from tropical blackwater ecosystems throughout the world, many other fish come from areas with basic, hard water instead. This includes:

    Most of the fish on this list prefer neutral or heightened pH as opposed to acidic conditions. Though these fish might adapt to lower pH levels over time, subjecting them to unideal conditions for extended periods of time can potentially shorten their lifespan.

    Instead, one of the best fish to use Indian almond leaves with is the betta fish, particularly wild bettas. Otherwise, Indian almond leaves are a very popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks as dwarf shrimp love to forage in and around the leaf litter.

    Wild Bettas

    Most fish keepers have had a betta fish tank at one point or another in their aquarium careers. However, not many have taken the time to understand their true natural habitat preferences and how important blackwater conditions are to their success.

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    Wild betta fish species originate from southeast Asia, through parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. There, they live in extremely shallow ponds and overflows that are littered with palm fronds and other organic matter from the thick forest canopy above.

    These areas are very low in visibility and oxygen, leaving the betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ that allows them to rise to the surface of the acidic water for atmospheric air. These betta fish species are also less colorful in appearance compared to their more desirable tank-raised counterparts and have more basic reds, blues, and blacks.

    While not all wild betta fish species have been brought into the aquarium hobby, some popular species include Betta imbellis, Betta macrostoma, Betta picta, and Betta pugnax.

    Given what is known about these wild fish, Indian almond leaves greatly help the transition between their natural habitat and the aquarium setting. Wild betta fish thrive in soft and acidic conditions. They are also very shy fish and will do well under the dark brown color of the water and the addition of some floating plants.

    How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

    Adding Indian almond leaves to your aquarium is simple enough and so is removing them. If it turns out that you can’t stand the appearance of blackwater that comes with Indian almond leaves, then you’re not stuck with it forever! However, it’s going to take some time and a little extra maintenance to get your aquarium back to where it was.

    Though there isn’t much that can go wrong in the removal of Indian almond leaves from your aquarium, you want to take your time. PH and general hardness can cause problems when changed too quickly and it is better to be safe than sorry.

    First, you want to remove the Indian almond leaves from your aquarium to stop any more tannins from entering the aquarium. If the Indian almond leaves are already in small pieces, then use an aquarium siphon. Do this by sections so that you don’t stir up too much leaf litter at once, causing ammonia to enter the water column and a potential mini-cycle to start.

    At the same time, perform a 25% water change and add activated carbon to the aquarium. The water change will help introduce untinted water and the new desired water parameters while the activated carbon will strip the remaining tannins from the water.

    Within a few weeks, your tank should be back to being crystal clear with higher pH and hardness levels.

    Other Alternatives

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves are the most popular aquarium botanical as effects have been studied for years. Hobbyists have tried many other options though, including using leaves and cones that they might find on their own properties.

    Some popular alternatives include:

    • Peat moss
    • Driftwood
    • Walnut leaves
    • Common beech leaves
    • Birch and alder cones
    • Oak leaves

    Driftwood is not commonly seen as a way to introduce tannins, but tannins are the reason your aquarium turns brown after adding new pieces of driftwood! Driftwood is a great alternative to botanicals altogether, especially if going for a minimal aesthetic with rocks and wood features.

    If planning to collect your own botanicals, like oak leaves, survey the area for possible sources of contamination. This mainly results from runoff and pesticides but can also be from animal defecation. If there are any signs of contamination at all, do not add them to your aquarium.

    Also, make sure that the leaves are completely dried as live ones can release unwanted toxins into the aquarium.

    Where to Buy

    Indian almond leaves is purchased at specialty fish stores or online. If you are looking to purchase them online, check out the links below. Both sellers offer high-quality leaves at great prices.

    Final Thoughts

    Indian almond leaves have antibacterial and antifungal properties which can help prevent and cure low-grade infections, like fin rot, while lowering pH and water hardness. They can help shy fish feel safer and become the home to an assortment of fry and juvenile fish and invertebrates.

    The only problem with using Indian almond leaves is that they can create an undesired dark tint to the aquarium water, which not all hobbyists will find appealing. These effects will need to be reversed through a series of partial water changes and the use of activated carbon.

    though, the benefits outweigh the cons, especially if keeping a blackwater fish species!

  • How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

    If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

    If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

    Axolotls have become one of the most popular aquarium pets in recent years, and it’s easy to see why. They’re bizarre-looking, personable, and surprisingly long-lived when kept correctly. In captivity, axolotls regularly reach 10 to 15 years, and some make it to 20. In the wild, they’re nearly extinct (Lake Xochimilco in Mexico is essentially their last native habitat), so what we keep in tanks are captive-bred animals that actually tend to be healthier than their wild counterparts. The biggest thing I see kill axolotls early is temperature. They need cold water, 60 to 68ยฐF, and most people don’t realize that. Get that right along with water quality, and you’re looking at a very long-lived companion. This article breaks down the 5 key factors that determine lifespan.

    Unfortunately, axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat. And so, what we get here is the laboratory-bred and tank bred axolotls that live much longer than the native ones.

    But before diving straight into the topic, let’s discuss why axolotls are endangered?

    Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

    Axolotls are critically endangered species, which are constantly declining in the wild and might go completely extinct in the near future.

    There are a number of factors that resulted in their sharp decline. In 1998, research stated that there were 6,000 axolotls per square kilometer in the lake Xochimilco. However, today, the axolotl population dropped to 35.

    So, where did we go wrong? The video above goes in detail (video from Frankie’s Aquatics). I’ll also add my points below. Let’s find out.

    Water Contamination

    The advancements and developments anywhere bring their own consequences. Thus, the recent developments in the Xochimilco regions resulted in water pollution, making these areas havoc for aquatic animals, especially axolotls.

    Overfishing

    It’s an old story of supply and demand; when the Mexican walking fish became a supreme delicacy in Mexico, the demand increased, leading to overfishing. And so, the numbers of axolotls in the wild kept decreasing.

    Habitat Loss

    The recent expansion of Mexico city almost completely destroyed and drained the lake Xochimilco, one of the principal habitats of axolotls.

    Invasive Species

    Mexicans introduced a number of invasive species in Lake Xochimilco that have decimated axolotls numbers in the wild, ultimately contributing to their shape decline. Axolotls themselves are invasive in some areas, with efforts from local government to make them illegal to own.

    How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

    It would surprise you that axolotls only live for about five to six years in the wild. And that’s because these species are endangered in their natural habitat due to habitat loss, fatal illness, or predators that prey on them.

    Therefore, axolotls live for around five years to six years in the wild.

    How long do they live in captivity?

    Even though we don’t have solid numbers for the oldest-known Axolotl, axolotls can live for up toย 15 years in captivity.ย Some may even go forย 20 yearsย and longer if taken care of.

    Therefore, adopting an axolotl is a huge commitment that demands consistency and dedication.

    Factors that affect Their Lifespan

    Axolotl Morphs

    Like other salamander species, Axolotl’s life span mainly depends on the following factors. You can increase your axolotl life span by considering these factors and keeping them happy and healthy for an extended time.

    1. Water Quality

    If there is one thing that Axolotl cannot compromise, it is the tank’s water quality. Your axolotl tank’s suggested optimum water temperature is 59ยฐF to 60ยฐF (16-18ยฐC). As an estimate, the water temperature should not exceed 75ยฐF (24ยฐC).

    Additionally, the pH level of the water tank should be 7.4 – 7.6 to create a warm, welcoming environment for your smiley little pets. To increase Axolotl lifespan, your axolotl tank should be free of Chlorine and chloramines as they are harmful to your pet axolotls.

    If Chlorine is detected in the water, I suggest installing a de-chlorinator to minimize the effects. Also, to get rid of the traces of Chlorine, water should be left standing for at least 24 hours before adding your Axolotl.

    2. Tank Setup and Conditions

    Axolotl spends their entire lives underwater, so their only home is the tank in which they live. Make sure to reward your adorable pets with the best and high-quality tank setup and conditions.

    First of all, the tank size should suffice the needs of your Axolotl. The bare minimum tank size to house one juvenile axolotl is 10 gallons. However, the tank size should be no less than 20 gallons for adult axolotl. That’s because axolotls are solitary creatures, more like messy creatures that create a lot of waste. Thus, a small tank would create serious health problems in the long run.

    Secondly, it is advised to change the tank water frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal infections. Also, water changes helps keep the ammonia levels low. Suppose you’re someone who cannot commit to changing the water regularly. In that case, I suggest installing canister filters as the water flow in canister filters is regulated to prevent stress-related diseases in your pet axolotl. Also, I don’t recommend plants in an axolotl tank as your pets might destroy them, causing a lot of mess in the tank. If you must, consider soft and flexible plants so your axolotls can pass through them quickly. I suggest keeping Java ferns for axolotl tanks.

    Lastly, the best choice for the substrate is sand since the particles are soft and small and cause no potential damage if swallowed.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Additionally, there is absolutely no need for proper lighting in the axolotl tank. The fact that these creatures lack eyelids, intense lighting is quite stressful to animals. Also, they are nocturnal animals and enjoy the darkness. If lighting is a requirement for your plants, you can invest in an L.E.D. Bulb for your aquarium. Many pet stores stock such lights, which are dimmable and fully adjustable.

    3. Food

    Axolotls are carnivorous and voracious eaters that eat pretty much anything that comes their way. However, it’s essential to feed them nutritious food rich in proteins to extend axolotl lifespan. Axolotls feast on live food such as earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, salmon pellets, etc. However, juvenile axolotls can eat daphnia, white worms, and grindal worms. You can also hand-feed your Axolotl to experience an adorable pet-parent moment.

    4. Handling

    Axolotls are part of the salamander family are aloof in nature and like to mind their own business in a peaceful, stress-free environment. Therefore, minimal handling is required for axolotls, especially if you want them to live a happy, healthy, and long life.

    Of course, you cannot avoid handling, especially while checking their skin or changing water, but it shouldn’t be done routinely. You can also keep Axolotl out of the water, although it is not recommended at all. That’s because axolotls have a slimy coat on their body which is destroyed by your hands, posing a threat to contact bacterial infection. Therefore, keep your axolotls in water and unbothered for a longer lifespan.

    5. Tank Mates

    White Cloud Minnow

    Axolotls are like your introverted friends that love you but stay low-key. So, if you want to house other pets with your Axolotl, think again!

    Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and they can easily harm other sleeping fish for a healthy meal. Here, I’m going to list the best axolotls tank mates for your convenience.

    • Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
    • Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
    • Guppies
    • Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
    • White cloud minnows
    • Other species of peaceful cool water fish

    However, bear in mind that you would at least need a 55-gallon tank if you plan on keeping tank mates with your Mexican walking fish.

    FAQs

    Can you touch them?

    Although not recommended, you can touch your axolotls in the case of emergency and urgency, i.e., while changing tank water or checking for diseases and other problems. But, handling your axolotls shouldn’t be a routine task as it is much more stressful for the pet.

    Also, axolotls have a slimy coat on their skin, which might damage by the warmth of your hands, posing a severe threat to your axolotls.

    How long can they be out of water?

    Not so long. Axolotls can survive outside of water for a few minutes, and as soon as they dry out, things can get pretty ugly.

    Axolotls’ skin is covered with a slimy coat that protects them from danger and other fungal and bacterial infection. If axolotls are out of water for too long, this coat disappears, leaving the pet in danger.

    Are they good beginner pets?

    Yes and no.

    Axolotls are good beginner pets as they live underwater and require little to no handling. It also means that they don’t need any special care and attention. However, they are susceptible to stress-related diseases. Hence, this is why I don’t think they are a good choice for beginners.

    Axolotls are very sensitive to water quality and conditions. Most axolotls spend their lives in a stressful environment just because the owners don’t care enough about their surroundings.

    Therefore, if you’re a responsible novice keeper and plan to provide the proper water parameters, tank size, and optimal tank conditions to your axolotls, yes, axolotls are good beginner pets for you.

    Can they live for 100 years?

    No, axolotls live for around 10-15 years in captivity. The longest they can survive is approximately 20 years when the Axolotl is well-cared of in some rare cases.

    How long do these pets live?

    Pet axolotls live for around 10-15 years in general. In some extreme cases, when provided the suitable water parameters, conditions, and tank size, axolotls can live for up to 20 years.

    Are They Immortal?

    No. Axololts die naturally due to natural threats., several factors contribute to their sudden, accidental death, such as inferior water quality, food that contains toxins and are hard to digest. The primary cause of axolotl death is overheating. Therefore, an aquarium chiller is recommended for axolotls’ tank.

    Axolotl lifespan is around 10-15 years with proper care, which is known to be the longest as compared to other aquatic animals.

    Can They regenerate body parts?

    Axolotls have the power to regenerate their body parts and internal organs such as limbs, lungs, heart, and brain.

    Their ability to regenerate limbs and other organs is the prime reason for their extended life expectancy. Because if they are exposed to diseases or accidents, they will regenerate, and the organs come back to their original state.

    How are axolotls different from other salamanders?

    Axolotls are different from other species in a variety of ways.

    1. Axolotls are larger than other species.
    2. Axolotls are only native to Lake Xochimilco, whereas other species is found elsewhere.
    3. Unlike most amphibians, axolotls are neotenic, which means they don’t undergo metamorphosis, and their juvenile features are retained in the adult animal.
    4. Axolotls live entirely underwater and use gills for breathing.

    What causes Their death?

    Like other animals, axolotls die naturally. However, there are instances when they have an accidental death.

    The leading causes of Axolotl’s death are poor water quality, smaller tank size, high temperature, and unsuitable mates for your axolotl pets.

    To allow your axolotls to lead a happy, healthy life, it is imperative that you provide them with the right water parameters and conditions. Also, the quality of food should be superior. It is recommended to install an aquarium chiller or aquarium fans to main the water temperature.

    Final Thoughts

    So the answer to how long axolotls live is no longer a mystery. Axolotls, in captivity, can live for up to 10-15 years. Some may live longer for up to 20 years, provided their water and tank requirements are met.

    Axolotl lifespan wholly and solely depends on how you keep it. Proper axolotl care includes tank size, water quality, food quality. If you get that all right, your smiley little pets will live longer and happier with you.

    References

  • The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in picking the best foods for their fish. Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best foods for your betta fish.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    • Insect based
    • High protein
    Most Available
    Northfin Bits
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Bio-Gold
    • Easy to find in stores
    • Easy to feed

    For those of you in a hurry, let’s cut to the chase. My top recommendation are Fluval Bug Bits. This product is made from solider fly larvae and provides everything a betta needs as a main food staple. Northfin betta pellets is also an excellent choice and well priced for what you get it has not fillers and is better than the vast majority of pellet products available. The most available and best budget option would be Hikari Betta Bio-Gold. This is sold in an easy to measure packet that makes it very easy to feed your betta the correct portions.

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

    Going through all the various fish food products out there, here are the products that made the cut for me. Each are high quality foods. I select a product for each type of fish food.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    Fluval Bug Bites
    • Pellet food
    • Natural
    • High protien
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    Northfin Betta Bits
    Northfin Betta Bits
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    • Pellet food
    • Easy to feed
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Freeze Dried Blackworms Freeze Dried Blackworms
    • Freeze dried
    • Can be soaked in vitamins
    Buy On Amazon
    Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia
    • Freeze dried
    • Multi-vitamin enhanced
    Buy On Amazon
    SF Bay Multi-Pack SF Bay Multi-Pack
    • Frozen food
    • Great variety
    Buy On Petco
    Frozen Bloodworms Frozen Bloodworms
    • Frozen food
    • Great source of protein
    Buy On Petco

    The 7 Best Betta Food Products

    Let’s go into detail and see why each product made this list below.

    1. Fluval Bug Bites

    As I mentioned earlier, Bettas are primarily insect eaters. This is their staple diet in the wild. Fluval’s bug bites formula attempts to replicate this by using Black Solider Fly larvae as the primary ingredient in their food line. This particular line is made for Bettas, with a small enough granule size to accommodate their mouths.

    What you get is a natural and protein rich fish food in an easy to digest pellet. This pellets are your usual pellets as they break apart easily and function more like freeze dried food. From a digestive perspective, it’s the perfect pellet. The folks at Fluval explain their process and reasons for the formula below.

    This betta fish food is great nutritionally, best can be messy to feed. Keep this in mind when using it so you don’t accidentally end up with excessive food wasted. Once you learn how to feed with it, it’s the best overall food you can buy. I recommend this as a staple food to mix with the others mentioned below.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Insect derived
    Cons
    • Can be messy to feed
    • Doesn’t always float

    2. Northfin Bits

    Best Betta Pellet Food
    Northfin Betta Bits

    A pellet fish specially formulated for Betta Fish. This is a great staple pellet food to add to your Betta’s diet!

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Looking for high-quality pellet food to feed your betta? Look no further than Northfin Betta Bits! These pellets are made in Canada and are packed with protein, making them the perfect choice for your finned friend. Plus, they contain no fillers, so you can be sure your Betta is getting the nutrients they need.

    The pellets are perfectly sized for bettas and tend to give a good feeding response to your fish. It is going to be more expensive than lower-quality pellet foods but is one of the best pellet foods you can purchase today. I feel they are superior to the omega one betta line and new life spectrum betta foods that compete with it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Ideal sized pellets
    Cons
    • Sink quicker than other pellets
    • Expense for a pellet food

    3. HikariBio-Gold Baby Pellets

    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold

    Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold formula. Contains high quality ingredients in an easy to use feeding package. A great beginner food

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    If you are looking for the perfect betta fish food for a beginner it would have to be Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold. The way the package is designed is made for the beginner. You can use the package to count the number of pellets and ensure your fish is not overfed.

    The food itself is also of great quality. It is designed by Hikari, which is known for its superior quality food. The food itself has been researched by Hikari’s R&D team. They were the first food manufacturer to design food for specific species of fish long before it was fashionable to do in the aquarium trade.

    You don’t get as much food as other products, but the package makes feeding easy to do. Make sure you take care of the package though, as it can break over time and doesn’t have a cap like other pellet foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Easy to feed
    • Great price
    Cons
    • Not a lot of food
    • Package can break

    4. Freeze Dried California Blackworms

    Blackworms have gotten my attention over the years as superior live food for marine fish. It also is a great food source for freshwater fish and bettas. I feel blackworms are superior to freeze-dried bloodworms due to their better nutritional profile. These blackworms are freeze-dried and easy to feed to your bettas.

    As with other friend-dried foods, they will easily soak up any type of vitamin product you use. I would recommend Vita-chem for freshwater fish. Using these blackworms and a vitamin doser will greatly enhance your Betta’s color and activity

    This is a very filling betta fish food that you will need to be careful about overfeeding. It also does not float much. There is a bit of a learn curb with this food over others, but if you are doing this food with Vita-chem you will have a food combo that is rich in protein and vitamins.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great protein source
    • Can be vitamin dosed
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesnโ€™t float much
    • Can be messy

    5. Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

    Buy On Amazon

    If you don’t want to worry about fish bloat, Daphnia is a great food source to try. It is considered a great laxative in the aquarium trade. This freeze dried version from Hikari also comes vitamin enriched, saving you on having to use a vitamin doser.

    This betta fish food also provides one of the best feeding responses from freeze dried food. As you move up the chain in quality from from pellet to freeze dried to frozen food, this product is a great stepping stone to get your Betta fish more comfortable and ready for whole foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Vitamin enhanced
    • Best feeding response
    • Laxative for fish
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Can be messy

    6. San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Freshwater Multipacks

    Anyone who has been in the aquarium hobby for a while will rave about the benefits of whole frozen foods for fish. The problem with many frozen foods is you only tend to get one type of ingredient. This variety pack from SF Bay addresses this issue by offering 4 types of fish food in one package. You get the following with this product:

    • Freshwater Frenzy – Bloodworms, Cyclops, and Daphnia
    • Emerald Entree – Spirula, Mysis Shrimp, Fish Oil
    • Spirulina Brine Shrimp – The best frozen brine shrimp you can buy
    • Bloodworms – A common freshwater fish staple

    All of these formulas are whole foods, rich in vitamins and protein and food your betta will gobble up. The cubes are large for a betta fish, so plan on store your food properly. This food is expensive and will take up space in your freezer. Keep this in mind when you consider purchasing it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Variety
    • Highly nutritious 
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesn’t float
    • Messy

    7. Gamma Frozen Bloodworms

    Frozen blood worms are a great treat for your Betta fish. These are an excellent source of natural protein for your fish and is pathogen free being a frozen food.

    These worms can be very filling and will get your fish looking fat fast. This fish food is easy to overfeed, so watch the portions that you provide to your fish.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Messy

    What Kinds Of Things Do They Actually Eat In The Wild?

    Betta fish are insectivores meaning they primarily eat insects in the wild1. In the wild, they will eat insects and insect larvae. Because of their diet in the wild, this means that you will want to ensure your Betta eats a diet that is rich in protein, but also has the roughage of to keep them from getting bloat. Roughage for a insect full of insects would be chitin from arthropods like brine shrimp and krill. This can make low grade processed fish food suspect.

    Our Criteria

    When it comes to figuring out the best betta food in the aquarium trade, I look at several factors when going over the options you can buy today.

    • Natural foods – I want food Betta actually eat in the wild and that is nutritious to them
    • No fillers – Fillers are in low quality food. I want more whole food and natural food for your pet
    • Quality brands – No generic or unproven brands. Sticking to tried and true here
    • All types of foods – I’m select foods from pellet, freeze dried, and frozen

    By looking at the list, you should have a well balance menu for your betta fish by purchasing the foods recommended.

    Types

    Let’s look at the various types of food available on the aquarium trade for Bettas. Generally, the heirarchy of food from worst to best goes Flake Food > Pellet Food > Freeze Dried Food > Frozen Food > Live Food.

    Unfortunately, live food is unpractical for most, but I’ll explain more below.

    Flake

    Flake food is the food you will find at all pet stores. It is going to be the cheapest and easiest to feed food you can purchase. While you can buy it, it is often times going to be the lower quality food you can purchase. It is best to use in a pitch or for an auto-feeder, but shouldn’t be a food you should rely on heavily.

    Pros of Flake

    • Cheap
    • Easy to feed
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Flake

    • Highly processed
    • Typically going to be the poorest quality fish food

    Pellets

    Pellet Foods

    Pellet food a step up from flake and actually has some high quality brands like Northfin and Hakari available. This food I feel can be a staple for for your Betta, but you do have to be careful with over relying on it. Pellet food if overfed can result in constipation and bloat issues. You can mitigate this by soaking your pellets before feeding them. It is going to be the highest quality food you can use in a

    Pros of Pellets

    • Good brands available
    • Easy to use
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Pellet

    • Can cause constipation or bloat
    • Quality can vary

    Freeze Dried

    Freeze dried food offers whole food that is dried and less processed than pellet or flake food. It looks more real to your Betta and will encourage a feedingresponse. It can also be dipped in vitamins, which this food does an amazing job soaking up. Freeze dried food can also be used in an auto feeder

    Pros of Freeze Dried

    • Whole food
    • Takes vitamins well
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Freeze Dried

    • More expensive
    • Can be messy

    Frozen

    Frozen food offers a whole and nutritious meal for your betta fish. It will have the highest nutrient content and will be the most filling for your fish. Frozen food is where you get to see your fish really pig out when they eat. It is the second most expensive of the foods available and can be messy. It can be easy to overfed if aren’t too careful. It’s also smelly.

    Pros of Frozen

    • Very nutritious
    • Very filling
    • Lots of variety

    Cons of Frozen

    • Messy
    • Expensive

    Live Foods

    Daphnia

    Live foods are the best food you can fed to a Betta, if you have the time and patience for it. You provide your fish the essential guy bacteria in order for them to build a healthy immune system and the feeding response is second to none. Even the pickiest fish cannot resist live foods.

    It is best if you are going to use live fish food to cultivate your own. You can buy them at a pet store, but you run the risk of transferring disease. It is time consuming and can be messy to make your own live food, but it is also very rewards — and your Betta fish will love you for it!

    For live foods, daphnia, brine shrimp, and California black worms are great to cultivate.

    Pros of Live

    • Best feeding response
    • Best nutrition
    • Great for picky fish

    Cons of Live

    • Risk of disease
    • Time consuming

    How Much Do You Feed Your Pet?

    This is a very popular question I get from readers. Betta fish always look hungry and like to beg for food. This can make it seem like they are starving all the time. While it could be great for your fish to feed them all the time, it isn’t great for their digestive system and its not great for the health of your water. Your lives are busy as well with lots of responsibilities. It can be difficult to feed a fish multiple times of days.

    Knowing all of this, I can comfortably say that you should feed your pet Betta once a day six days a week. Why only six days? This is because it’s a good idea to have freshwater fish fast for a day a week in order to clean out their digestive systems. Betta can live for nearly a week without food, but you don’t obviously want to do that.

    FAQs

    What is the best food to feed them?

    The best food to feed betta fish would be cultured live foods like daphnia and blackworms. However, this is something that can be time consuming and not what a hobbyist would want to do. Frozen foods mixed with dried foods and a high quality pellet food staple would be the best combo of foods to feed a Betta fish. Look for brands like Fluval, Hikari, and Northfin when shopping for Betta food.

    Do they prefer flakes or pellets?

    Bettas will prefer pellets over flake foods. Pellets will replicate their natural foods more and can be gulped up in one bite. Overall, pellet food is going to be of higher quality than flake food.

    How many pellets should I feed my pet?

    The number of pellets will actually depend on the type of pellet you are feeding your Betta fish. Usually 4-7 pellets a day is going to be okay for your Betta fish, but it could be more or less depending on the food and the size of your fish.

    Take a look at your Betta’s belly after eating, the belly should be full but not extended. If you are getting more of a bloated look, consider cutting down on the food. You should start with a small number of pellets and work yourself up when determining how many to feed your fish each day.

    Why is mine spitting out his pellets?

    There are a few reasons why your betta might be spitting out his pellets. The most common reason is that the pellets are too big for him to eat or not soft enough. Bettas have small mouths, so they can only eat small pellets. If the pellets are too big, they will spit them out.

    Another reason might be that the pellets are old and stale. If they’ve been sitting in the water for a while, they might not be as fresh as they once were. Finally, some bettas just don’t like eating pellets. They would rather eat live food or frozen food. If your betta is spitting out his pellets, you can try giving him smaller pellets or fresher pellets. You can also try frozen or live foods.

    Closing Thoughts

    While there are many different types of betta foods on the market, we recommend sticking to these seven. They provide a well-rounded and high-quality diet for your fish and will help them stay healthy and looking their best. If youโ€™re looking for variety in your bettaโ€™s diet, experiment with some of the other foods on the list. But always make sure that they are Bettafish safe! Do you have a favorite type of food to feed your betta? Leave a comment below and let us know what it is!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    If you found snail eggs in your tank, you need to identify the species before deciding what to do. Some snails produce hundreds of babies. Others produce a handful.

    Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

    Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

    Snail eggs are one of those problems that sneak up on you. One week your tank looks fine, and the next you’ve got hundreds of tiny snails coating the glass. I’ve been through this more than once. After adding live plants without quarantining them first. Most pest snails like bladder snails and ramshorn snails hitchhike in as eggs on plants, and they can multiply fast once they’re established. The good news is that prevention is straightforward once you know what to look for, and there are reliable ways to get things back under control. Here’s what I’ve learned works. And what doesn’t.

    Freshwater Snails (Where Snail Eggs Come From)

    Snail eggs start with adult snails. Whether you like it or not, snails will most likely end up in your freshwater fish tank. These invertebrates are some of the most successful hitchhikers, invading tanks by the hundreds.

    The problem is that snails start off very small. They like to attach themselves to live plants and other aquarium decorations before being transferred to a new tank, making the transition from one setup to another seamless. Even more so, most freshwater snail eggs are extremely difficult to spot and are mostly immune to pesticides.

    Once in the aquarium, snails will continue to reproduce either sexually or asexually; as we’ll see, there is one species of aquarium snail in particular that needs brackish water conditions to reproduce and is the most optimal choice for controlled systems. Otherwise, snail overpopulation can become a big problem for hobbyists very quickly as more snails equal more waste.

    To understand how snails reproduce, we need to first understand more about the different species available to hobbyists. The main species are:

    Malaysian Trumpet Snails

    Trumpet Snail
    • Scientific name: Melanoides tuberculata
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Asexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Malaysian trumpet snails are some of the most problematic snails as they are believed to reproduce asexually. These snails are small and difficult to see on incoming plants and decorations as they stay under an inch long.

    These aquarium snails are so problematic because not only are they asexual, but they also give birth to live young. This makes it impossible to prevent reproduction; as long as there is food in the tank, this freshwater snail species will continue to reproduce indefinitely.

    Ramshorn Snails

    Ramshorn Snail
    • Scientific name: Planorbidae family
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Ramshorns are unique and beautiful snails, which is probably why they end up overrunning so many aquarium systems. They have tight, swirled shells that can come in many light and dark color variations. Ramshorn snails are also effective algae cleaners and don’t take up a lot of space.

    The problem is that many beginner hobbyists see these freshwater snails and think to add several to their new tank. As a sexual snail species, ramshorn snails will reproduce and lay eggs almost immediately. Once ramshorn snails have entered your aquarium, they will continue to thrive based on food availability.

    Ramshorn snail eggs are some of the most difficult to see, with a transparent sac surrounding nearly transparent eggs. These eggs are laid at or below the waterline.

    Mystery

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Mystery snails are one of the most common freshwater snails to come across in your local pet store, but you won’t find them in more experienced hobbyist tanks. These snails might look like great cleaners, but they’re simply too large and reproduce too quickly if more than one snail is in the aquarium.

    This species is one of the most colorful, ranging in color from light greys and yellows to marbled browns. However, they’re not the best at cleaning algae and can become a pest if allowed to reproduce. It’s believed that their radula, or their teeth-like structure, are not as strong as better algae-eating snails. Because these snails are comparatively big, they do better in larger tanks.

    Mystery snail eggs are some of the largest and most noticeable. These clutches are very dense and laid at or above the waterline on the aquarium glass.

    Assassin

    • Scientific name: Anentome helena
    • Maximum size: 3 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Assassin snails are another popular aquarium snail species in the hobby due to their usefulness (video from The Dave). As their name implies, they are predatory snails that will attack and eat other snails. This is very useful for controlling pest snail populations. Unfortunately, this also means that they’ll leave problematic algae alone.

    Assassin snails are one of the bigger species of snail and need a larger minimum tank size. They have a bright brown and yellow swirled shell that provides color to the aquarium while serving a purpose. This helps them blend into the substrate, where they will burrow and bury themselves until ready to feed.

    As for freshwater snails, assassin snails are the least likely to overpopulate an aquarium as they need a sexual partner and lay eggs one at a time. Though they’ll kill most snail species and even possibly dwarf shrimp, they’ll mostly leave larger ones alone.

    Assassin snail eggs are singular and hard to see. They are most often laid on the aquarium glass in translucent sacs.

    Nerite

    • Scientific name: Neritina spp.
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Nerite snail species are probably the best snail to have in both the freshwater and saltwater aquarium. These snails are great cleaners, stay relatively small, and have attractive yellow and brown swirled shells.

    The best thing about Neritina species is that they need brackish or saltwater conditions to reproduce. This makes it impossible for nerite snails to overpopulate a freshwater tank, leaving them to focus on cleaning.

    Still, it is very common for females nerite snails to lay eggs in the freshwater aquarium. These nerite snail eggs will look like small white capsules on the underside of driftwood, rocks, and plants. However, they will not hatch if the water never becomes saline.

    Snail Eggs

    If you introduce any of the freshwater snails on this list into your aquarium, you’re bound to find snail eggs. Whether these eggs are fertilized and hatch will depend on the species of aquarium snail you’re dealing with. It is safe to say that ramshorn snail and mystery snail eggs will all be fertilized and turn into a bunch of baby snails.

    First, you need to be able to identify what aquarium snail eggs look like. Then, you can deal with removing them and controlling snail populations.

    What Do Freshwater Aquarium Varieties Look Like?

    Snail Eggs on Aquarium Glass

    Freshwater snail eggs are easy to identify but difficult to find.

    Snails lay their eggs in safe areas that are hard to reach or out of sight. This means under the leaves of live plants, driftwood, and even rocks, though sometimes snails will lay eggs right at the waterline. Looking for snail eggs is especially important when bringing new live plants into the aquarium as they is easy to miss, causing a snail infestation.

    For the most part, freshwater snail eggs look the same no matter the species of snail. Snail eggs are laid in a clutch. Each egg clutch is filled with individual eggs safely packed within a transparent gelatinous sac. This is in contrast with nerite snails that lay individual eggs in a line.

    These individual infertile eggs is blue, pink, or creamy and are slightly transparent. Once they become fertilized eggs, they will turn darker in color and have observable dark and brown spots across the individual egg. If the eggs go unfertilized, they will not change in color or appearance.

    How Long Do They Take To Hatch?

    Again, how long it takes for snails eggs to hatch will depend on the species. In general, freshwater snail eggs will hatch in between 2 to 4 weeks after being fertilized.

    Water parameters, especially water temperature, will greatly influence how quickly eggs hatch. However, there aren’t many benefits to speeding up the process as snails are easy to breed.

    If several weeks pass and your baby snails have yet to hatch, then there is a chance that something went wrong or they were never fertilized. At this point, the unfertilized eggs may be removed or left in the tank for other fish and invertebrates to eat.

    Removing From Your Tank

    As mentioned before, many hobbyists struggle with snail infestations. Having too many snails is not always a good thing as there start to be more disadvantages than benefits.

    But how do you know if you should remove snail eggs from your aquarium or not?

    Unless you’re breeding snails for a reason, like for feeding predatory fish, snail eggs should always be removed from the aquarium. After the first pair of snails, the population growth becomes exponential, which can quickly get out of hand.

    Snails help will algae up until a point. After that, they create large amounts of waste that take away from other livestock and can even damage plants if they weigh too much. The problem is that snail eggs are hard to find and you’re left with catching and destroying hundreds of baby snails, which definitely doesn’t feel great to do. This is why we recommend removing the eggs before they get to that point.

    Here are the best ways to remove freshwater snail eggs before they get the chance to hatch.

    Manual Removal

    The best way to remove snail eggs from your aquarium is by manual removal. This is very easy to do especially if the eggs are on the side of the aquarium glass.

    Simply use a thin card or razor blade to separate the clutch from the glass. Then you may squish them or submerge them in vinegar.

    If the snail eggs are stuck onto the side of driftwood or a rock, then you need to remove the affected piece. Both the driftwood and rock may be scrubbed or scraped of the eggs. The driftwood can also be boiled if need be.

    Biological Solutions

    Clown Loach in Aquarium

    Luckily, snail eggs are high in protein and are the preferred diet for many freshwater fish and invertebrates. Unfortunately, many of these egg-hungry species also enjoy eating adult and baby snails, which may cause some problems. As long as the snail is larger than the fish, there should be no problems for adult snails.

    Some of these fish include:

    There are a few problems with getting rid of aquarium snail eggs through biological solutions, however. The main problem is that more fish require more room.

    Most types of loach and Corydoras need to be kept in schools of six or more individuals. This is a large long-term addition to the aquarium for a temporary problem. If space is available and the setup is right, then these fish will happily live even when the natural supply of snail eggs has run out.

    The other problem with using a biological solution to treating snail eggs is that not all snails lay their eggs in the same areas of the tank. Loaches and Corydoras live on the bottom of the tank but your snail may choose to lay its eggs towards the top of the tank or out of the water completely.

    Though these fish will surely take care of any eggs or baby snails near the bottom of the tank, it is up to the hobbyist to remove the eggs that are out of reach.

    Remember that the assassin snail is also a good predatory species to control a large snail population.

    Prevention

    Of course, the best way to get snail eggs out of your aquarium is by never introducing them in the first place! This is easier said than done, though it is possible.

    When picking out your clean-up crew, choose snails that use their time to eat algae and not to lay eggs. One of the best options of freshwater snail is the nerite snail as it checks both these boxes.

    Observe and treat new live plants for aquarium snail eggs and baby snails. Some hobbyists choose to quarantine their plants just as they would for new fish or invertebrates. This is a lengthy process but is definitely the most effective way at preventing unwanted pests from entering the aquarium.

    Otherwise, thoroughly go over the stems and leaves of the plants for transparent egg clutches. There are several dip options that can also be effective:

    • A dip of 2-3 mL 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water
    • A dip of 1:19 ratio of bleach to water
    • A dip of potassium permanganate that has reached a dark pink or purple color when mixed with water

    These dips is effective for removing not only unwanted snails, but also various types of bacteria, fungus, and parasites.

    If you do not use any methods to prevent snails from coming into your aquarium, they will find their way in time.

    Another great way to prevent snails is to best pest free plants. These plants are going to be tissue cultures and will be sold by specially retailers. Not all types of plants are available as tissue cultured though.

    Final Thoughts

    Snails are a necessary part of the freshwater aquarium ecosystem, but snail eggs are not. Many species of freshwater snail reproduce too quickly in the home aquarium, leaving tanks to be overrun. Luckily, there are a few types of snail that have slow reproduction rates or that can’t successfully reproduce in freshwater entirely.

    If freshwater snail eggs do happen to enter the aquarium, then some consistent manual removal or biological intervention may help solve the problem.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    I’ve kept bettas for years and always found that the right plants make a huge difference. not just aesthetically, but for the fish’s actual wellbeing. Bettas love to rest on broad leaves, hide among stems, and explore a tank that feels like natural habitat. The tricky part is that betta tanks are often low-tech setups, so you need plants that can thrive without CO2 or high-end lighting. These are the plants I’ve personally grown in betta tanks and recommend without hesitation.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming the brown thumbs. Iโ€™ve personally grown several of these plants in betta tanks I’ve kept and seen others in real world scenarios to determine the best plants for betta fish tanks.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Java Fern
    • Adaptable plant
    • Easy to care
    Easy To Maintain
    Anubias Nana
    • Slow growth
    • Stately laves
    Budget Friendly
    Marimo Moss Balls
    • Cheap
    • Works great in small spaces

    Let’s cut to the chase with my top picks. The best plant to try for a betta tank is easily the Java Fern. It is available every, you can even get some cuttings from another betta keeper. They are very adaptable plants and easy to maintain.

    Next up we have Anubias. This plant grows stately leaves and is a slow grower, which means you won’t have to prune as much. Like the Java Fern, it is adaptable and hardy. Easy to find as well. The budget option would be the Marimo Moss Balls. While not as easy to find now, it can fit in the smallest of spaces and does a good job of filtering the tank.

    The 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish

    Let’s go over the best plants for betta fish below. I included a video from our channel for visual learners. I go into further detail below. If you like our content, give us a like and sub on our YouTube channel.

    1. Java Fern

    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus / Leptochilus pteropus
    • Common Name: Java Fern
    • Origin: Widely distributed in Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-Moderate, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java Fern is an amazing first time planted tank owner. A betta fish tends to be one of the first fish a beginner owns. Java Fern is also a great beginning plant that will be forgiving to many of the newbie mistakes one can make.

    Java fern is a great low light / low energy plant tolerates a wide temperature range and requires no CO2 to grow. It is readily available at most stores and is very affordable. It is the best plant to start with if you want to decorate a betta fish tank and still have a very hardy plant.

    2. Anubias

    Great Beginner Plant
    Anubias Nana

    Hardy, forgiving and easy to grow. The Anubias Nana is your ticket to the incredible hobby that is aquascaping!

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    • Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana
    • Common Name: Dwarf anubias, nana anubias, petite anubias
    • Origin: Cameroon, equatorial West Africa
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anubias is an amazing plant that not only offers a forgiving plant, but has leaves large enough to serve as a hammock. It also comes in multiple varieties and leaf sizes where you purchase the size most appropriate for your betta tank.

    Anubias Barteri is the traditional Anubias with large leaves while Anubias Nana and Anubias Petite are best used in smaller fish tanks. This aquatic plant is very forgiving, will grow in low light, and grows with no CO2. The main issue with this plant is that it grows slow. Because it grows slow, it is prone to algae overtaking its leaves. Consider wiping algae from its leaves or recruiting algae eaters to maintain its health.

    3. Marimo Moss Balls

    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Common Name: Moss balls
    • Origin: Japan
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 78 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for an easy-to-care-for aquatic plant (well actually it isn’t really a plant – it’s algae)? Look no further than the Marimo Moss Ball! This spherical algae ball thrives in any aquarium and grows at a rate of just 5mm per year. As if that wasn’t low maintenance enough, the Marimo Moss Ball is also extremely tolerant to most water conditions.

    Being algae, it does an amazing job of acting as a natural filter for your Betta tank. It will consume ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in the aquarium. You also can cut them into mats and glue to driftwood and rocks for a moss like appearance. It’s a great plant (algae) to try! So why not add a splash of greenery to your underwater oasis?

    4. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    Low Tech Plant!
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii
    • Common Name: Wendtโ€™s water trumpet, Wendtโ€™s cryptocoryne, Wendtโ€™s crypt
    • Origin: Sri Lanka, Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-high, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii is one of the few rooted plants that work well in Betta tanks. It is a great option for beginners. This easy to grow plant grows at a moderate rate, and can be grown both submerged and emersed. Propagation is also easy – done by simply cutting off new plantlets growing from the mother rhizome.

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii can also grow in a variety of light doing well in high low and low light environments. If you are looking for a rooted plant, this is once of the best suited plants for a betta fish.

    5. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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    • Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
    • Common Name: Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern
    • Origin: Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate 30-80 PAR (umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Water Sprite is a popular, fast-growing stem plant that is extremely easy to care for and suitable for beginners. It can grow to a very tall background plant but with frequent pruning, the plant can stay compact and low growing. Like the Marimo Moss balls, it does a great job functioning as a natural filter as it will soak up nutrients

    Water Sprite can also be placed floating on top or sit submerged in water and they’ll still be happy. Just remember that if you let you have them floating the plants underneath can get too much shade, so choose only low light species for any plant that tries to grow below it.

    can be cut and replanted for propagation.

    6. Amazon Sword

    Amazon Sword

    A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

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    • Scientific Name: Echinodorus amazonicus/ Echinodorus bleheri/ Echinodorus grisebachii
    • Common Name: Amazon sword
    • Origin: Brazil, South America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Amazon sword plants are a great choice for the aquarium hobbyist, being that they’re easy to care for and offer attractive coverage. They grow in an elegant rosette with long leaves that have wavy edges along their pointing tips (and sometimes rounded). The dark or bright green coloration makes the amazon sword stand out amongst other plant life in your setup–a must-have if you want something ornamental!

    Keep in mind that amazon swords grow very tall. They may not be the best choice in smaller tanks, but in tall and medium sized tanks they do very well.

    7. Vallisneria

    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria
    • Common Name: Val, Eelgrass, Tape Grass, Jungle Val
    • Origin: Africa, North America, South America, Asia, Australia, Europe
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-200PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 59. 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Vallisneria is a tall, thin leaf plant that creates a lush, jungle-like appearance in your aquarium. This fast-growing plant anchors deeply into the substrate and thrives on nutrients, making it an ideal choice for any aquarium setup.

    The main issue with this plant when it comes to betta fish is that it prefers a strong current. However, the tall nature of the plant can actually buffer flow for your pet fish so both plant and fish can have their needs met.

    8. Banana Plant

    Banana Plant

    A unique looking plant that can be used floating or attached to hardscape.

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    • Scientific Name: Nymphoides aquatica
    • Common Name: Banana Plant
    • Origin: Southeastern United States
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Medium-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 81 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for a unique addition to your aquarium? Look no further than the banana plant! Banana Plants are a great addition to any aquarium! These plants are easy to care for, and add a delightful detail to your tank. With long stems and light to dark green leaves, these plants look just like a bunch of bananas.

    These beautiful plants quickly grow tall and will float like lily pads on the surface of your tank. Make sure to prune the leaves occasionally to avoid restricting light to other plants, or bury the stem in the substrate to keep it anchored.

    9. Java Moss

    • Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
    • Common Name: Java moss
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-High, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java moss is a unique and versatile aquarium plant that has become one of the most popular mosses used in planted tanks. Its deep green hue and thin fronds make it an ideal choice for enthusiasts of all levels, and Java Moss can be utilized to recreate a variety of styles in a planted tank.

    Java moss is an excellent addition to any aquarium. Its soft, green fronds provide valuable coverage for fry and can help to create an aged look that enthusiasts of all skill levels enjoy. Java moss can also be used in breeding projects and is perfect for wrapping aquascaping rocks or driftwood.

    10. Bucephalandra 

    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

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    • Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
    • Common Name: Buce plant, Buceps
    • Origin: Borneo, Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy, moderate
    • Light Level: Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 71 – 79 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended

    If you’re looking for an easy plant to start with, look no further than Bucephalandra. These unusual plants come from Southeast Asia, where they grow in shallow water on rocks and driftwood. There’s already a huge variety of cultivars and varieties available, so you’re sure to find the perfect one for your tank. With their broad leaves and beautiful flowers, Bucephalandra are sure to turn heads (and make your fish happy too).

    This aquatic gem can be grown submerged or immersed, making it perfect for beginners. It’s also very slow growing, so you won’t have to worry about it taking over your tank. And if you want to propagate it, it’s easy to do. just cut the rhizome and attach it to driftwood or rocks using super glue gel or thread.

    11. Anacharis

    • Scientific Name: Egeria densa, Elodea densa
    • Common Name: Anacharis, Elodea, Giant Elodea, Brazilian Elodea, Brazilian Water Weed
    • Origin: South America, Brazil, Uraguay, Argentina, Introduced widely
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 50 – 77 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anacharis, also known as Egeria Densa, is one of the easiest aquatic plants to keep and highly suitable for beginners thanks to its lack of care requirements. It can be kept free floating in the aquarium or anchored into the substrate depending on preference. Although it prefers cooler water temperatures, it can survive in warm water as well.

    Anacharis is arguably considered the hardiest aquarium plant you can purchase in the trade and handles a variety of conditions. If this is your first time trying live plants, I recommend giving Anacharis a try. you wonโ€™t be disappointed!

    The Challenge

    Keeping aquarium plants with a Betta fish is a different compared compared to most schooling fish you would put in a planted tank. While they aren’t destructive and will not eat your plants, they have specific requirements that make certain plants a better fit for them than others. Let’s go over these specific needs.

    Temperature

    The ideal temperature for a Betta fish is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of this, some plants may not be the best fit as they prefer a lower temperature. This also can made an aquascape style aquarium difficult to maintain as the growth of algae is accelerated with the higher temperatures.

    Knowing this, we will want to work with plants that are okay with the higher temperatures and consider ways to work with the increased algae growth, either by recruiting algae eaters, adding more plants, or getting comfortable with more maintenance to remove the algae.

    They Prefer A Low Light Level

    Betta fish are not comfortable in a high energy high light planted tank. This makes them unsuitable for some types of high end aquascape environments. You can place a Betta fish if you shade with driftwood, rocks, or floating plants.

    Because of this, Betta fish are most compatible with low light plants that do not need a high intensity light level to grow.

    They Prefer Low Flow

    Because most Betta fish are slower moving, they do best in an environment with low flow. Purchasing plants that do well in a low flow environment is ideal in a betta tank. You can also mitigate flow by using floating plants or suppressing your return lines with a spray bar or a sponge.

    Small Tanks

    Many Betta fish owners will place their pets in either a 5 gallon or 10 gallon fish tank. A 5 gallon fish tank is ideal for a single betta while a 10 gallon is where you have enough space to start adding other tank mates like corydoras catfish.

    Because we tend to work with smaller tanks with Bettas, large plants will usually be avoided. We will also look at smaller sub species of plants if they are available.

    Bettas Like To Lounge

    Bettas love to rest on plants. They tend to enjoy floating plants and plants with large leaves so they can lay and lounge on them. Plants like grasses may look good in an aquarium, but won’t serve much utility for your Betta.

    Live Plant Alternatives

    Live plants are great for their benefits and natural setting for your betta fish. However, not everyone wants aquatics plants and not everyone wants to do with the maintenance issues that come with it. Let’s talk about some alternatives.

    Fake Plants

    Fake or artificial plants are a great way to give your betta fish shelter without having to deal with plant maintenance. However, not every artificial plant is a good candidate for your fish. You want to have leaves that have smooth surface and that won’t have rough edges. This will rule our more plastic plants you will find in pet stores.

    You should look to purchase silk plants for a betta fish tank. Marina makes a great line of artificial plants called marine naturals that I would highly recommend.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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    Aquarium Rocks – Decor Options

    Aquarium rocks serve as a great backdrop in a betta fish tank. Like with fake plants, you will want to make sure your rocks do not have jagged or sharp edges. The classic Seiryu stones are great for aquascaping that work well with bettas as long as you check the surfaces (and smooth out any rough surfaces if need.

    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes

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    If you want another option, you can try out these Betta caves. Betta enjoy places they can hide and lounge on. Putting one of these in place is a good option especially if you have an all-in-one tank as the fish like to hang by the overflow to hide when they lack a safe space.

    SunGrow Betta Caves

    These Coconut shells are ideal Betta fish homes. Smooth to the touch, these will not damage your Bettas delicate fins

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    Fake VS Real – What Is Better?

    You will hear this debate often from a simplicity standpoint. Let’s take a look at a comparison of having either or so you can make the most informed decision.

    Live

    Plants are the best to add because they enhance the natural environment of your fish and help to filter our nitrates and phosphates in your aquarium. However, fake plants offers ease of maintenance. Let us look at other pros and cons below:

    Pros

    • Removes nitrates from the water
    • Provides oxygen to the fish
    • Source of entertainment for betta
    • Looks great in the tank
    • Offers a place to hide in

    Cons

    • A plant that requires substrate will require specialized soil
    • Increase tank maintenance
    • A slow-growing plants may develop algae issues due to lack of clean up crews

    Fake Decor

    Fake plants are a good option if you don’t want to prune or maintain aquatic plants. They can also look good if care is taken when choosing the right designs. Here are the pros and cons of using plant imitations in your tank. I got a video from Aquarium Show that discusses silk vs plastic plants as a reminder that silk plants are superior for betta fish.

    Pros

    • Looks great
    • Easy to maintain
    • Offers shelter for your fish

    Cons

    • Some fake plants be expensive
    • There are no benefits to the tank besides contributing to the aesthetics
    • Plastic plants are ill suited for a betta fish

    FAQS

    Do they need plants in their tank?

    No, betta fish don’t require plants in their tank. However, plants will help to clean the water and provide a hiding place for the fish. Plants provide a natural environment for bettas and also help to oxygenate the aquarium water. They also lower stress that can extend the lifespan of your Betta.

    Some good plant choices for a betta tank include Anubias barteri and Java fern. These plants are easy to care for and can thrive in low aquarium light conditions.

    Are real plants good for them?

    Yes, real plants are good for betta fish. They provide them with hiding places and help oxygenate the water. Live plants also help keep the water clean and free of algae by out competing them for nutrients when planted in mass.

    Can I put a bamboo plant in my betta tank?

    Yes, you can. Bamboo plants are a good choice for betta tanks because they produce fresh oxygen and help to reduce the levels of ammonia and carbon dioxide in the water. They also act as a natural filter, helping to remove harmful toxins from the water.

    If you’re using a live bamboo plant in your tank, be sure to add some aquarium gravel or other substrate to the pot to anchor it down. You’ll also need to make sure that the plant is getting enough light – place it near a window or use a grow light if necessary. And finally, be sure to regularly clean the leaves of your bamboo plant with fish safe algae cleaner, a tooth brush, or mild soap and water.

    Are plastic plants OK?

    Plastic plants are non-toxic to betta fish, but generally are not okay for them. This is because plastic plants can have frayed edges that can tear the fins of fancier Betta types. To be on the safe side, consider purchasing artificial plants with smooth edges like silk plants.

    What kind of plants do they like?

    Betta fish like floating plants and large leaves because they provide them with hiding places and places to rest. They also like aquarium plants that are rich in oxygen, so they can get the oxygen they need to breathe. Java fern, Anubias, Hornwort, and Water sprite are all good choices.

    Closing Thoughts

    Betta fish are a unique and interesting addition to any planted tank, but they do have specific needs that should be taken into account when choosing betta fish plants. By understanding what these needs are, you can create or choose a planted tank that is perfect for your betta and will keep them healthy and happy. Have you ever kept aquarium plants specifically with a betta fish in mind? What plants did you choose and why? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Having worked with livebearers for over two decades, japanese Rice Fish are the most underrated nano fish in the hobby. Cold-tolerant, surface-dwelling, and available in multiple color strains.

    Rice fish are the low-maintenance nano fish that most people overlook because they are not flashy enough. Their keepers know better.

    Rice fish are the low-maintenance nano fish that most people overlook because they are not flashy enough. Their keepers know better.

    The Japanese rice fish (Oryzias latipes) is a peaceful nano species that is becoming increasingly popular among aquarists. These fish are highly underrated in the hobby, being one of the hardiest coldwater nano fish choices.

    Brief Overview of the Japanese Rice Fish

    Scientific NameOryzias latipes
    Common NamesJapanese rice fish, Japanese killifish, Medaka
    FamilyAdrianichthyidae
    OriginJapan, China, Vietnam, Laos, Taiwan, & Korea
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan2-5 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMidwater, Top
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range61ยฐF. 75ยฐF
    Water Hardness5-25 dKH
    pH Range7.0. 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater, Brackish water
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilitySpecies-only tank or community tank 
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Japanese Rice Fish Origins and Habitat

    Japanese rice fish are small schooling fish that are native to Southeast Asia from eastern China and eastern Korea to Japan and Vietnam. Phylogenetic analysis has shown that there are actually 33 closely related species in the genus Oryzias.

    The Japanese rice fish has a rich history in the aquarium hobby. They have been a favorite among Asian aquarists for centuries! These celebrated fish look amazing when viewed from above, which was important before glass fish tanks became available.

    Rice fish are highly adaptable fish that are found in a variety of habitats like rice paddies and shallow rivers. They occur naturally in both freshwater, and brackish water where fresh and saltwater mix according to the tides. Check out the video above from my YouTube channel. There is more information on this post so let’s keep reading on!

    What Do They Look Like?

    Japanese Rice Fish in Planted Tank

    The first thing you might notice about rice fish is that they are almost transparent! They also have beautiful big blue eyes.

    Japanese rice fish have been selectively bred to produce beautiful and fairly stable color varieties. There are hundreds of known rice fish breeds, but the following types are most accessible in the hobby.

    • Pink Medaka Rice Fish

    This variety is one of the most colorful ricefish available in the hobby. The Pink Medaka Rice Fish have an orange-pink body color that brings life to any fish tank.

    • Galaxy Medaka

    The galaxy rice fish has a whitish body color. Under good lighting, their scales shine like a rainbow. Like other rice fish varieties, these fish look almost transparent.

    • Red Cap Medaka

    This stunning color form of the Japanese rice fish has an orange/red crown and back that merges into its pearl-colored body. This combination of color contrasts amazingly with their bright blue eyes.

    • Yokihi Medaka Rice Fish

    The Yokihi medaka is a rare breed with beautiful deep orange coloration.

    Other Ricefish Species

    • Javanese Medaka Rice Fish

    The Javanese rice fish (Oryzias javanicus) is actually a different species from the Japanese rice fish. These beautiful little fish are from more tropical areas and are suitable for heated tropical fish tanks. It is told from the Japanese rice fish by its deeper body shape and pointed tail fin.

    • Woworae Medaka Rice Fish

    The woworae, or Daisy’s blue rice fish (Oryzias woworae) is one of the most colorful tropical Asian medakas in the genus Oryzias. This awesome little nano species wows fishkeepers with its bright orange body trim and pectoral fins. The males, in particular, have a beautiful blue glowing body color, although both sexes boast bright blue eyes.

    How Big Are They

    Medaka are very small fish that reach a maximum length of between 1 and 1.4 inches. Their small size and hardiness make them great fish for nano tanks.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Rice fish, like most nano species, are not particularly long-lived fish. With good care, however, these fish can live for as long as 5 years. The most important factors that affect the longevity of your fish are:

    • Water quality
    • Water temperature and parameters
    • Feeding
    • Disease & stress prevention

    Fish Temperament and Activity Level

    medaka fish

    Japanese ricefish are relatively active little fish that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. It is best to keep your ricefish in a group of at least 8.

    They are not shy if kept in a comfortable environment and will be found schooling together in an open area of the tank outside of the current created by your filter. Rice fish are very peaceful, so you don’t have to worry about any bad behavior in a community fish tank.

    Interestingly, the hardy and adaptable nature of these fish have made them a popular model for scientific research and education. Believe it or not, they were the first vertebrate species to be bred in space!1

    What Are Good Tank Mates for Them?

    Japanese rice fish are very peaceful creatures that get along great with other species of fish in a community tank. They are very small, so it’s important to avoid larger fish that might see them as dinner.

    Choosing fish that are similar or the same size is the best way to avoid any disappearances, but there are other factors you need to consider when planning a peaceful community.

    Firstly, Japanese ricefish are cold water fish, so they should not be kept in water temperatures higher than the mid-70s. They may survive in a tropical setup, but their lifespan will probably be reduced, so keep them on the cooler side.

    The fact that they thrive in cooler water temperatures is actually a real bonus for aquarists looking to set up a cold water community tank. Let’s take a look at some of the freshwater fish species that you can keep with medaka.

    Best Tank Mates

    Least Compatible Fish for Companions

    What Do They Eat?

    Ricefish are not very picky when it comes to diet. The most important factor to consider is their small size.

    Ricefish is fed a diet of dried prepared foods like pellets, granules, or flakes. Flakes can easily be crushed up, but harder foods like pellets need to be very small.

    Rice fish are said to be omnivorous, which means they are both animal and plant eaters. Small insects and other tiny animals are an important component of their diet, and these should be provided as a supplement to keep them in great health. This is also very important to bring your ricefish into top breeding condition. A good staple food to try would be Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula.

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

    Buy On Amazon

    Here are a few great supplementary frozen and live foods that you can provide:

    • Blood worms
    • Brineshrimp
    • Daphnia
    • Grindal worms
    • Small vegetables

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    Aquarists often make the mistake of overfeeding their pets. This can result in obesity, and more importantly, reduced water quality. So how do you know how much food to provide?

    Feeding them more than once a day is a great tip. Providing a small amount that they can finish in just a minute or so will prevent any uneaten food from sinking to the bottom or getting sucked into your filter.

    If your medaka fish are colorful, growing, healthy, and active, you know you’re keeping them well fed!

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Japanese ricefish are very easy to care for and will thrive in a variety of setups. In fact, many aquarists keep these hardy freshwater fish outdoors in ponds and containers.

    They will thrive in any setup that provides an environment that is similar to their natural habitat. In this section, you can learn how to set up a great tank for your rice fish, so let’s get started!

    Tank Size

    Rice fish are a nano species that can survive in aquariums as small as a few gallons or as big as outdoor ponds! I would recommend starting out with a tank of 10 gallons or larger, however, because this provides enough swimming space for a nice school while being stable enough to maintain water quality.

    More important than the size of the tank is its cover. These little jumpers can easily escape out of an open aquarium, so make sure it has a secure lid.

    Aquarium Plants

    Rice fish absolutely thrive in a planted aquarium. They feel more comfortable with floating plants on the water surface. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep medaka, without live plants, however.

    You might think growing live plants requires special lighting, equipment, and soils, but that doesn’t have to be the case.

    Start out with a few easy aquarium plants like Java ferns and anubias to green up your aquarium. These plants will grow under standard aquarium lighting if tied to your hardscape.

    If you want to upgrade your tank into an amazing underwater aquascape, you can look at starting a tank with decent aquarium soil, good quality lights, and a pressurized CO2 injection system.

    Substrate

    A darker, natural colored substrate bring out the best color in aquarium fish, and also makes them feel more at ease. Any aquarium-safe substrate is used, however, since ricefish will not spend much time at the bottom of the tank.

    If you’re setting up a planted aquarium, starting out with a quality aquarium soil will provide the best results. Alternatively, a well-rinsed sand or gravel substrate will work great.

    Decor

    Arranging some rocks or driftwood in the aquarium is a great way to make a natural environment for all the fish, and a more attractive aquarium for you to look at too. Be sure to use clean, aquarium-safe materials and place them carefully to prevent any damage to the glass.

    Water Quality

    Keeping the water clean and safe is the next priority after setting up a great tank for your ricefish. The tank should be fully cycled before introducing the fish. Check out this article if you’d like to learn more about the aquarium cycle and why it’s so important.

    Let’s take a look at how to keep your cycled aquarium safe and healthy for your fish.

    Filtration

    Many aquarists will tell you a filter is not essential for keeping ricefish. I recommend good filtration for all aquariums just because they are so effective for maintaining the nitrogen cycle, aerating the water, and of course, filtering out particles and impurities in the water.

    A simple sponge filter works great, but if you plan on keeping many fish or a community setup, consider upgrading to a canister filter. Both of these filter types create very little flow, which is ideal for these freshwater fish that prefer living in calm water.

    Water Parameters

    One of the great things about ricefish is how hardy and adaptable they are. Chances are, the temperature in your home is very comfortable for them, and this means most keepers don’t need aquarium heaters.

    Here are the most important water parameters that you should maintain for your rice fish:

    • Water Temperature: 61ยฐF. 75ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Hardness: 5-25 dKH
    • Ammonia: 0 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Nitrate: < 20 ppm

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Keeping your aquarium clean and healthy is the most important thing you can do for your ricefish. Here are some of the steps you’ll need to take:

    • Perform a regular water change every week or two
    • Suck up uneaten aquarium fish food and waste from the substrate with your gravel vac
    • Clean your aquarium glass with an algae scraper when necessary
    • Rinse out your filter media with old tank water on a regular basis

    Test Tank Conditions

    The only way to really know if your water parameters are suitable for your ricefish is by testing your water regularly. This will also tell you if your maintenance schedule is up to scratch.

    Testing your water is easy with an aquarium test kit. These kits come in liquid or strip form and are easy (and fun) to use.

    Breeding

    Rice fish are easy to breed in the home aquarium. Read on to learn how (I’ve also provided a video from Aquaviva below)!

    Sexing

    Of course, you’re going to need both male and female ricefish if you want them to reproduce. But how do you know which sex they are? Here’s what to look for:

    • Adult female rice fish are larger than males
    • Females often carry eggs on their anal fins
    • Males tend to be more colorful
    • Males have a small bump on the body in front of the anal fins
    • Male ricefish also have longer rays in the dorsal and anal fin

    Getting Ricefish Ready to Breed

    Conditioning your fish is very important since unhealthy ricefish will produce fewer eggs, or they might not reproduce at all. Feed your fish a healthy diet of frozen and live food before you plan on breeding them to increase your success rate.

    The Breeding Process

    Once the female is in breeding condition, she will lay eggs every day for several weeks or even months. The male fertilizes them and then the adhesive eggs are deposited on fine-leaved plants like Java moss.

    Spawning mops made from green wool or synthetic fibers can also be used to simulate a live plant.

    Caring For Fry

    The fertilized eggs will hatch after 2 weeks or so. The fry will need to be fed infusoria or liquid fry foods due to their small size. Live plants and the tiny animals that grow on them can provide a great natural food source too.

    The fry are vulnerable to larger fish at this age, which is why spawning them in a dedicated spawning tank is the safest option. The fry grow quickly, however, and can reach maturity in less than 6 months.

    Health and Disease

    Japanese rice fish are very hardy, but there is always a chance that your fish may develop health problems. Read on to learn more about what to look out for.

    Evaluating Your Ricefishesโ€™ Health

    The easiest way to assess the health of your fish is to observe their physical characteristics and their behavior. Fish that are hiding, breathing rapidly, or have lost all of their usual colors are showing signs of stress.

    Flashing against the substrate, floating, or sinking are other common signs of distress. Observing your fish often will help you pick up problems early, and allow you to notice changes over time.

    Common Ricefish Health Issues

    Where To Buy

    You don’t have to travel to Japan to get your own beautiful medaka rice fish. Sure, they aren’t always the easiest fish to find at your local pet store, but in today’s world of online fish stores, that’s no problem at all! You can click the link below to check out the variety of rice fish available for sale by our partners.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What do they eat?

    Japanese ricefish are not fussy when it comes to food. Feed them a regular diet of flakes or micro pellets. Providing live foods like baby brine shrimp and micro worms is a great way to keep them in perfect health.

    Are ricefish aggressive?

    Rice fish are not aggressive at all. These peaceful nano fish are great community tank mates.

    Why are they called ricefish?

    Rice fish get their name from their habit of living in rice paddies. These are shallow swamps where the rice plant is grown.

    Are ricefish the same as killifish?

    Ricefish may look and act a lot like killifish but they are not all that closely related. Genetic research has shown that ricefish are in the Adrianichthyidae family while killifish are in other families like the Aplocheilidae and Fundulidae.

    How long do ricefish live?

    You can expect your ricefish to live for a few years if you provide it with the right care. Their expected lifespan is anything from 2 to 5 years.

    Closing Thoughts

    Medaka rice fish are kept everywhere from Japan to space! It’s a shame that these coldwater nano fish aren’t better known, but fortunately, they have become more accessible all over the world in modern times.

    Do you keep Japanese rice fish? Let us know about your experiences with these nano fish in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    Not all gouramis are created equal. Some are peaceful community fish. Some will destroy everything in the tank. Some carry genetic disease from mass breeding that kills them within a year.

    The gourami you pick determines whether your community tank works or falls apart.

    What Are Gourami Fish?

    Gouramis are freshwater fish from the Osphronemidae family. They originate in South, and Southeast Asian countries, but are such popular aquarium fish that can now be found all over the world. There are over 130 known types of gourami, and many of them are available in the aquarium trade.

    Gouramis are known as labyrinth fish because they have a specialized labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe air. Dissolved oxygen levels are low in their natural habitat which is why these fish have this special adaptation that allows them to take a breath of air from the water surface.

    Gouramis come in all sorts of colors and sizes, from the tiny sparkling gourami at 1.5 inches all the way up to the giant gourami at over 2 feet long! They have distinctive ‘feelers’ which are actually modified pelvic fins.

    In the wild, their natural habitats vary from slow-flowing rivers to shallow swampy areas. Gouramis are actually great parents and many species are bubble nest builders.

    14 Best Gourami Types For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about what gourami fish are and where they come from, it’s time to get to know some species! To get you started, I’ve put together this list of the 14 best gourami species for freshwater aquariums that you can keep.

    For each species, you’ll find a list of important information to help you choose the best gourami for your tank. That list includes:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    I included a video from our YouTube Channel below. If you like it, be sure to subscribe. We upload every week. I go over in more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Honey

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna/ Colisa chuna
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The honey gourami is a great species to start this list! It is a very peaceful fish species that is excellent for beginners. The male honey gourami is much smaller than the female and has bolder colors, but they are both great-looking fish.

    Honey gouramis are excellent nano fish that is kept on their own or in a small group. The honey gourami also makes an ideal tank mate in a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.

    2. Sparkling

    • Scientific Name: Trichopsis pumila
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sparkling gourami fish is another terrific nano species that seems to burst with color. Their bold looks are accentuated by the gleaming iridescent turquoise sheen on their body and fins.

    Sparkling gouramis are very peaceful fish and is timid if kept with other fish that are larger and more boisterous than themselves. Ideal tank mates include small schooling fish like rasboras, but avoid keeping them with shrimp as they are quite the little hunters!

    3. Licorice

    • Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live foods
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 3-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The licorice gourami is a spectacular species and one of the few fish that are really suited to nano tanks. These colorful fish don’t need that much room because they stay under 2 inches in length and aren’t very active.

    The licorice gourami is a little tricky to feed because they tend to reject prepared meals like flakes and pellets. This means these tiny fish require daily feedings of live and/or frozen foods like bloodworm, daphnia, and brine shrimp.

    4. Pearl

    Pearl Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pearl gourami is a peaceful species that makes a perfect community fish. They are one of the best-looking aquarium fish in the hobby and make an amazing centerpiece fish.

    The male pearl gourami is a little more colorful than the female and has extended fins, but both sexes are very attractive and graceful fish. Pearl gouramis are great fish for beginners, and with a lifespan of up to ten years, they make awesome pets.

    5. Blue

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue gourami is a beautiful color morph of the popular three-spot gourami. These stunning fish is pretty aggressive with each other, especially when breeding, and should be regarded as semi-aggressive.

    The blue gourami is still a great species for beginners, as long as they have a big enough tank and their territorial temperament is understood.

    6. Kissing

    Kissing Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Helostoma temminkii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8-10 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Dried foods, spirulina flakes, vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 71-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The kissing gourami fish is a very odd-looking freshwater aquarium fish! These have puckered mouths, and even come together to lock lips sometimes. This behavior is thought to have social or even breeding functions.

    These fish also use their strange mouths for feeding on algae and plants, but they is kept safely with some tough aquarium plants like Java ferns. Kissing gouramis are another species that is quite aggressive with other fish, so careful planning is necessary before adding them to community tanks.

    7. Giant

    Giant Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 20-28 inches in length (Up to 18 in captivity)
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Feed pellets, frozen foods, and vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The giant gourami is a huge species that can live for 20 years and makes a great pet. They are very hardy and equally peaceful, although they will eat fish that are small enough to swallow whole.

    The giant gourami grows to over 2 feet in length and needs plenty of space. They grow fast too, so make sure you’re ready for the commitment before bringing one of these gentle giants home.

    8. Powder Blue Dwarf

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The powder blue dwarf gourami is quite a sight with its electric blue color and red accents. They is a good choice for a nano aquarium with the right tank mates.

    The powder blue dwarf gourami is pretty shy and territorial so they should only be kept with other peaceful fish. The females are particularly peaceful and are the best choice for community setups. Alternatively, you can keep these stunning fish in a pair in their own tank, although more fish is kept in large aquariums.

    9. Snakeski

    Snakeskin Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 8 to 12 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes but might nibble on plants

    The snakeskin gourami, or snakeskin fish, is about the most peaceful gourami species out there, but they are also probably the least colorful. They are pretty large fish that need plenty of space to thrive.

    The snakeskin gourami makes a wonderful community fish, but they may swallow smaller fish and there is a possibility of your plants getting snacked on too!

    10. Gold

    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The gold gourami (like the blue gourami) is a variant of the three spot gourami species. These eye-catching fish are a rich golden yellow color with beautiful marbling and spots on their fins and body.

    Gold gouramis (video source) have the same care needs as blue gouramis, as well as the regular three spot gourami and opaline gourami. This is because they are all different color variations of the same species.

    11. Moonlight

    Moonlight Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster microlepis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 77-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The moonlight gourami might have a little less color than some of the other species on this list but it makes up for it with an amazing silvery-blue/green shine! They also have extra-long feelers (pelvic fins) which are bright red in males.

    Moonlight gouramis do great in community tanks with other peaceful species and is kept in pairs or small groups in a big enough tank.

    12. Sunset

    Sunset Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sunset gourami is one of the best gouramis for a community tank. These golden orange fish is kept in groups without aggression between themselves or their tankmates.

    The sunset gourami is often confused with the sunset variety of the honey gourami, so be sure your fish is correctly labeled!

    13. Flame Dwarf

    https://youtu.be/6jfmLgkEGYU
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The flame dwarf gourami (video source) is a very special breed of the popular dwarf gourami. These fish have spectacular colors and differ from the regular dwarf gourami in having more solid coloration. The body color of the flame gourami is a brilliant golden orange in contrast to the dorsal fin which is electric blue. Dwarf gouramis can also make good tankmates for angelfish.

    14. Blue Paradise

    Blue Paradise Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live/ frozen foods, might also accept high quality dried foods
    • Origin: Vietnam, Laos, China, Taiwan
    • Temperature: 50-71ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue paradise gourami is a feisty little species that is also known as the paradise fish. What sets these fish apart is their tolerance for cooler water, so they is kept in an unheated aquarium.

    Paradise fish have amazing color, but they is pretty aggressive around breeding time. The ideal stocking is one male with two or more females because males kept together will fight.

    Tank Setup

    The different types of gourami vary greatly in size, so selecting the right tank size depends on the species you keep.

    Some dwarf species like the sparkling gourami will do great in a ten gallon tank, while the giant gourami will need 250 gallons or more. Most average-sized species, like the pearl gourami, for example, will do best in a 30-gallon tank or larger.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Your choice of substrate is not all that important when it comes to keeping gouramis. Any well-rinsed aquarium substrate of your choice will work fine.

    If you plan on growing live rooted aquarium plants, you may wish to use quality aquarium soil, but otherwise, gravel or aquarium sand will work just fine. I would suggest using darker natural colors to make the fish’s color stand out and help them feel more comfortable.

    Gouramis is quite shy and are easily stressed in an empty tank without decorations. This affects how your fish feel and also how they look because stressed gouramis will not show their best colors.

    Use some driftwood or rocks to create some structure in the aquarium. Large aquarium ornaments are also very useful, just be sure to avoid anything with sharp edges.

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    Live Plants

    Gouramis love a heavily planted tank. Aquatic plants actually have a number of great benefits for your aquarium because they help to oxygenate the water while removing excess nutrients.

    Furthermore, live plants provide natural food sources and structure for your fish to explore and hide in.

    Not all aquarium plants are suitable for beginners, but the following species is grown without any specialized equipment:

    Floating plants are great because they help to make your gouramis feel more comfortable in the aquarium, but they can pose a threat to your fish.

    Gouramis often rise to the top of the aquarium to breathe air with their labyrinth organ, so it is crucial that they can get to the surface. Make sure your floating plants don’t cover the water’s surface completely.

    If you’re interested in growing a wider range of plants, check out some of my plant profiles for great tips!

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most gouramis will be more confident in lower light situations. Bright lighting in a heavily planted tank is perfectly fine, however, because dense plant growth will provide the fish with plenty of cover and shade.

    Gouramis are found in still or slow-flowing water bodies, so it is important to keep the water flow down in the aquarium. You can do this by running a sponge filter, but there are also ways to manage the current generated by a power filter or hang-on back design.

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    Most power filters have adjustable water outputs so you can slow the current. You can also aim the outflow at a hardscape feature like driftwood or rocks to break up the water flow. Running a spray bar with a canister filter is another great way to keep the water current gentle.

    Care

    Gouramis are relatively easy to care for if you start out with the right kind of setup. That’s not all these fish need to thrive, however, so read on for more details on their behavior, feeding, and care needs.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    No guide to aquarium fish care would be complete without mentioning aquarium maintenance. Follow these steps to keep your fish healthy and your aquarium looking great!

    You’re going to need to perform a weekly or twice monthly water change to manage the nitrates in your water and remove all the solid waste particles that have settled on the substrate, hardscape, and plants.

    To do this, you’ll need a gravel vacuum to suck up the waste and the old water. Remove 10-25% of your water during each change and be sure to test for nitrates before and after with your water test kit. Ideally, you want to keep your nitrate levels down to 20 ppm or less.

    Before adding new water to the tank, make sure it is at a similar temperature to the old water, and use a conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals dissolved in your tap water.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most types of gourami are peaceful fish, but some is semi-aggressive around breeding time. Do not keep more than one male in the same aquarium unless it is a very large tank, as they tend to become territorial and fight when space is limited.

    The more aggressive species to note are:

    • Kissing gourami
    • Three spot gourami
    • Blue paradise gourami/ paradise fish

    Although it shouldn’t be seen as aggressive behavior, some of the larger species might snack on smaller fish and fry if they can. Freshwater shrimp can also be part of the menu.

    Most gouramis are omnivorous, which means they feed on both plant and animal matter. Smaller species like the licorice gourami and chocolate gourami are predators that feed on small invertebrates.

    Most species will thrive on a diet of prepared dried foods, supplemented with frozen and live foods and vegetables. These supplements improve the general health of the fish, and you will see this by the enhanced colors they develop.

    Some of the more specialized species like the chocolate gourami is more challenging because they don’t accept prepared foods and require live or frozen foods on a daily basis.

    Breeding

    Gouramis are fairly easy to breed and make a great breeding project. Let’s take a closer look at how to breed these fish in the home aquarium.

    Before attempting to breed your fish, it is very important to get them in top physical condition. You can do this by improving their diet with more live foods and vegetables. A healthy, well-conditioned pair can then be moved to a breeding tank.

    It is tough to tell female gouramis from males. The female will look heavier when she is in breeding condition and carrying eggs.

    The males often have more pointed fin margins than the females. In some species, like the honey gourami, the male is a lot more colorful.

    A shallow breeding tank of just 6 inches or so is the ideal setup. The water flow should be slow so an air-powered sponge filter is an ideal choice for this low water volume. The water in the breeding tank should be on the warm side, in the lower 80’s Fahrenheit.

    Most gouramis are bubble nesting fish. The bubble nests are built by the male, and after spawning, he will collect the eggs and attach them to the underside of the nest. At this point, you can move the female out of the breeding tank, her side of the job is done!

    These fish build their bubble nests on floating plants in nature, and this works great in the aquarium too. They will attach their nests to other floating objects, however, and many aquarists have had success with simple pieces of foam.

    Once the eggs have hatched, you can feed the free-swimming fry infusoria, baby brine shrimp, and other food sources like prepared liquid fry foods.

    Tank Mates

    Most types of gourami will do great in a community tank with other community fish. Choosing compatible and peaceful tank mates is always important of course.

    Suitable tank mates should be similar-sized fish that they cannot swallow, or be swallowed by! Aggressive fish and fin nippers should also be avoided.

    Some types of gourami will do best when kept in a species-only setup without other fish. The following species make ideal tank mates for the more peaceful gouramis:

    Where To Buy

    Gouramis are some of the most popular freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby, so they are pretty easy to find. You can take a look at your local fish store or simply order your fish online.

    Buying livestock online is easier than ever these days, and trusted retailers in the field like Flipaquatics.com stock a great range of gouramis at great prices!

    FAQS

    How many should be kept together?

    Sometimes it is best to keep just one gourami in a tank to avoid the chance of aggression – it all depends on the species.

    This is especially true with males. Females gourami fish tend to be much more peaceful so it is often possible to keep a small group together.

    How many of the dwarf variety should be kept together?

    It is best to keep just a pair of dwarf gouramis in the same tank. This is because some individuals do become a little territorial and aggressive. It is possible to keep more in a large aquarium with plenty of plants and cover, however.

    What is the most aggressive?

    The paradise fish is probably the most aggressive gourami. The popular three-spot gourami (blue gourami, gold gourami, opaline gourami, etc. ) also has some aggressive tendencies, especially around breeding time.

    Are they aggressive?

    Gouramis are peaceful fish, but some species is semi-aggressive. Most fighting happens between male gouramis, so it is often safer to avoid keeping two males in the same aquarium.

    What is the smallest variety?

    Sparkling gouramis and licorice gouramis are the smallest species you are likely to come across in the hobby. These nano fish reach about 1.5 inches when fully grown.

    Final Thoughts

    Gouramis are awesome and often underrated tropical aquarium fish. There are so many types of gourami to choose from that there is a species or breed to suit just about any tank! If you’re looking for some new centerpiece fish or even an interesting breeding project, why not pick up a pair of these awesome fish for your aquarium?

    Do you love gouramis as much as we do? Tell us about your favorite fish below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    Barbs have a bit of an unfair reputation in the hobby, mostly because of tiger barbs. Yes, they fin-nip. but the real issue is people keeping them in groups that are too small. When I keep tiger barbs, I run groups of eight or more, and the nipping behavior almost completely disappears as they focus on each other. Outside of that, barbs are genuinely great fish: active, hardy, and available in enough variety to suit almost any community tank setup. My personal favorite for planted tanks is the cherry barb. underrated, peaceful, and the males turn a beautiful deep red. Here are 12 types worth knowing about.

    Barbs are a versatile, and often an underrated group of freshwater aquarium fish. In this article, I’ll be introducing 12 amazing types of barbs that you can keep in your tank. I’ll also teach you all the barb basics that you need to know to keep them happy and healthy.

    What Are Barbs?

    Barbs are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. There is a huge number of wild fish species in this group and they range through Asia all the way to Southern Africa. Barbs are solidly built fish, usually with strong fins and well-developed scales.

    They range in size from just an inch or so to large species that are measured in feet! Most of the popular aquarium species are 2-6 inches long, however. Many barb fish do well in cooler water temperatures, making them a great choice for unheated aquariums.

    They are generally peaceful fish but tend to be very active so choosing the right tankmates is important. They have a bit of a reputation in the hobby and some species are known as fin-nippers. This behavior is usually the result of poor care and stocking, however.

    Top 12 Types of Barb Fish For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about barbs in general, it’s time to get more specific. This article showcases 12 different types of barb fish that you can keep. To make your selection a little easier, I’ve included the most important facts you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube Channel just for you. We go into more detail in our blog post. If you like our video content, be sure to subscribe to us as we post new videos every week!

    So let’s meet some barbs!

    1. Cherry

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The cherry barb fish is an old favorite in the hobby. It is a very peaceful community fish that can brighten up your aquarium with a rich red-orange color.

    Cherry barbs are striking fish that have beautifully rounded fins and huge prominent scales. This is a great barb for beginners because it is so peaceful, small, and easy to care for! They get along with most fish species.

    2. Tiger

    Tiger Barb Fish
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    It’s easy to see how the tiger barb got its name. These striped schoolers are notorious fin-nippers, but the bad reputation is not always deserved. They come in many colors, including platinum, black, and albino tiger barb varieties.

    If given enough tank space, and kept in a group of at least 8-10 or so, they will usually leave their tankmates in peace. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t advise keeping the tiger barb with long-finned fish like angelfish.

    3. Gold (Chinese Barbs)

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: China, Laos, Taiwan, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The golden barb is an amazing fish that is also known as the Chinese barb. Gold barbs in their wild form look amazing enough, but the golden morph that is most common in the aquarium trade is a truly spectacular fish.

    The golden barb is a peaceful schooling fish that stands out with highly reflective scales. Like other barbs, they should be kept in a group of at least 6, but the more the merrier!

    4. Rosy

    <a href=Rosy Barb in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-554575″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Rosy barbs are a fairly deep-bodied species that comes in many awesome varieties including long-finned forms. They are schooling fish that can work great in community tanks with the right tankmates.

    Rosy barbs are omnivores and will feed on soft plants, so they are not always the best choice for carefully aquascaped aquariums. That being said, the rosy barb is one of the few fish that love eating black brush algae (BBA), so they can do great work in a planted tank.

    5. Denison

    Dension Barb Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 59-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The Denison barb is another species that goes by a few different names, including roseline shark and red-line torpedo barb. These peaceful and active fish are ideal for a larger tank with good water flow. A small school of these sleek and colorful fish makes for an eye-catching display, but they do require excellent water quality and plenty of swimming space to thrive.

    6. Tinfoil

    Tinfoil Barb in Tank
    • Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 12-14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, vegetables and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The tinfoil barb is a majestic barb species that gets its name from its metallic silvery color. Unfortunately, tinfoil barbs are just too big for most aquarists to keep indoors. These gorgeous fish need at least 150-gallon tanks but are probably better suited for ponds.

    Tinfoil barbs are active but peaceful fish, although they will eat other fish that are small enough to swallow. These large fish should be kept in a group of at least 6 to observe their interesting natural behaviors.

    7. Odessa

    • Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 61-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    This beautiful species is one of the smaller barbs, reaching 2-3 inches in length (video source). These schooling fish have intense colors, including silver, yellow, orange, red, and black. It is a very peaceful fish but must be kept in groups of at least 6 to prevent any semi-aggressive behavior.

    8. Glofish

    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you like really brightly colored fish, the Glofish barbs (video source) will really get your attention! These fish are not dyed but rather genetically modified tiger barbs that display intense fluorescent colors.

    That’s right, the Glofish barb is basically just an extra colorful tiger barb, with all the same care requirements. Glofish tiger barbs come in four amazing colors including Electric Green, Starfire Red, Sunburst Orange, and Galactic purple.

    9. Green

    Green Tiger Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The green tiger barb is yet another variety of the tiger barb, but this one isn’t genetically modified. This hardy fish has been developed to have a very dark body color with a vibrant green glow through the process of selective breeding.

    10. Black Ruby

    • Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The black ruby barb (video source) is also known as the purple-headed barb. They are a small, schooling species that can be kept in a community tank with the right tank mates. It is important to keep them in a group of at least 6 individuals to prevent fin nipping and other semi-aggressive behavior.

    Black ruby barbs are one of the most colorful freshwater barbs with males that have dark ruby red around the head, becoming almost black towards the tail. The females look great too, being similar to tiger barbs with 3 bold vertical stripes.

    11. Snakeskin

    • Scientific Name: Desmopuntius rhomboocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The snakeskin barb is also known as the rhombo barb. It is one of the rarer barbs in the hobby and is known for its exotic boa-like markings (video source). It is a tropical species that will thrive in a blackwater-planted aquarium, especially if kept in a nice big school.

    12. Panda

    Panda Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Haludaria fasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The panda or melon barb is one of the most boldly colored and marked species in the barb family. These awesome fish are pretty variable in their markings, and they typically have 3-5 black bars on their sides. Their general body color varies from peach through orange to red, or even purple.

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for barb fish is pretty easy for most species. They tend to prefer slightly acidic water, although they are generally hardy and adaptable. Matching the preferred parameters of wild-caught fish is very important, however.

    Read for more specific information on setting up a great tank for these fish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Some natural hardscape features like rocks and driftwood will make your barbs feel more relaxed in your aquarium. Most barbs appreciate plenty of swimming space, however, so it’s best not to ‘over-decorate’.

    Use a natural, dark-colored substrate to bring out the best colors in your barbs. Any aquarium safe substrate will work, including sand, gravel, and aquarium soils.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Barb fish do not have any special lighting requirements. In fact, most species will feel more comfortable under fairly dim light. Standard aquarium lamps will work fine, although you may want to look at better lighting if you wish to grow live plants in the tank.

    Most barbs are comfortable in fairly low flow, so any filter that can create a weak current is ideal. When choosing a filter, look for a model that can process the volume of your aquarium 4 to 6 times every hour.

    Some species, like denison barbs, are at home in the headwaters of rivers where the water flow and oxygen levels are higher, so they will appreciate a stronger flow.

    Heating

    Many of the popular barb species in the aquarium hobby are happy in temperatures down to the lower 60s. This makes them great fish for unheated aquariums! The preferred temperature ranges do vary between the species, of course, so be sure to do your research.

    Live Plants

    Barbs do great in heavily planted tanks, especially when there are some floating plants to keep light levels down. Most species are omnivorous, however, so there is a chance that some plants might be snacked on. Carpet plants and other soft-leaved types can be at risk.

    Relatively tough plants like the Java ferns are a great choice, however, and they have the added benefits of enhancing the behavior of your fish while oxygenating and improving the water quality.

    How To Care For Your Companions

    Barbs are relatively easy to care for. Feeding them a healthy diet and maintaining great water quality are the most important keys to successful barb keeping. In this section, I’ll give you more specific information on the day-to-day care of these schooling fish.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintaining excellent water quality is the most important thing you can do for your barbs and their tank mates! It’s worth investing in the best filtration system you can afford, but you will still need to get your hands wet every now and then.

    I would recommend starting with a 20% weekly water change to keep nitrate levels down. Use your aquarium water test kit to monitor nitrate levels and adjust your water change schedule as needed to keep concentrations down to 20 ppm or less.

    While siphoning water out of the tank you can also remove any solid waste that has accumulated on the substrate. This is also a great time to clean off any algae growth from the glass of your tank.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Barb fish have gotten a bit of a bad rap in the hobby because of their tendency to nip fins and bully other smaller fish. The main culprits are the tiger barbs, rosy barb, and black ruby barb, but they don’t always deserve this reputation.

    Barbs are social, schooling fish that compete amongst each other for dominance. In a big enough group, this keeps them busy enough to leave the other fish alone. If kept alone or in a small group, this natural behavior will lead them to try to dominate other species.

    The simple solution is to keep barbs in a school of at least 6-8, depending on the species. If possible, keep 10 or more for a great display! They are active swimmers that enjoy plenty of swimming space too, so they can outcompete small fish that are naturally shy.

    Most barbs are omnivores, which means they need both plant and animal-based foods. You should feed your barbs a staple diet of quality fish flakes or pellets. This can be supplemented with live and/or frozen foods, and vegetables.

    Breeding

    Barbs are egg-laying fish that can be bred at home with a little planning. Their habit of eating their own eggs can be a challenge, so you will need to set up a separate breeding tank to increase your chance of success.

    Start by conditioning a small group of barbs with high-quality foods like daphnia and bloodworms. Lower the pH and stain the water in the breeding tank using a material like oak leaves that will leach tannins into the water and induce spawning.

    You’ll need some sort of barrier to keep the eggs safe from the adults. A layer of round pebbles with spaces between them is a good option, especially if you have a gentle current running. If successful, the eggs will hatch in just a day or two, so be sure to remove the parents before they enter the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    Many barbs are excellent fish for a community tank. It is very important to remember that some species, like tiger, rosy, and black ruby barbs are semi-aggressive so they should be kept with other fish that are not easily intimidated and don’t have long fins.

    Keeping barb fish in a tank with plenty of swimming space and in groups of at least 8-10 can also go a long way towards maintaining the peace in a community tank. Keeping these fish together with other barbs is another great way to avoid problems, but there are many other options when putting together peaceful or semi-aggressive community tanks.

    Tank Mates For Peaceful Fish

    More peaceful barb species like cherry barbs are compatible with most other peaceful, similarly-sized fish. Here are a few ideas for great peaceful barb tank mates:

    Tank Mates For Semi-aggressive

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    The following long-finned fish are a little risky, especially if kept with potential fin-nippers like tiger barbs

    Where To Buy

    Barbs are very popular aquarium fish so you can usually find common species like cherry barbs at your local fish store. If you live a little far from town, or just prefer the safety and convenience of online shopping, I would recommend checking out trusted online sources!

    FAQs

    Are they aggressive fish?

    Most fish in the barb family are very peaceful species, although some like the Tiger Barb can be semi-aggressive if kept in small numbers.

    What what types are peaceful?

    Cherry, snakeskin, and gold barbs are great examples of peaceful community fish. Most species are very peaceful when kept in a well-planned community aquarium.

    What fish are compatible with barbs?

    Many species of similarly sized, peaceful fish are compatible with barbs. The best community tank mates for them are fish that are not shy and do not have long caudal fins.

    How many should be kept together?

    It is best to keep barb fish in groups of ten or more. The minimum group size is about 6 individuals.

    How many are there?

    A clear definition of what counts as barb varies depending on who you ask, but there are at least 1682 species in the Cyprinidae family according to FishBase1.

    Not all of these species are available in the aquarium trade but there are at least 20 species or so that are commonly available. Some of them, like the tiger barb, come in a great range of different color varieties too, so there are loads of barbs to choose from!

    Final Thoughts

    Barbs are classic aquarium fish. Their great looks, fascinating behaviors, and the fact that many species can thrive in unheated aquariums make them a great choice for beginner and expert aquarists.

    Do you keep barbs? Tell us about your favorite species below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    Table of Contents

    Corydoras catfish are my go-to recommendation for anyone asking what to keep on the bottom of a freshwater community tank. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept multiple cory species, and they consistently earn their place. Peaceful, hardy, entertaining to watch as they scoot along the substrate, and compatible with a huge range of tankmates. Two things I always flag before anyone buys: corys need to be kept in groups of at least six of the same species (mixed species groups don’t cut it socially), and they need soft, fine substrate to protect their barbels. Sharp gravel will damage those sensitive whiskers over time, and that’s one of the most common preventable cory health problems I see. This guide covers the 10 most popular species to help you find the right fit.

    Six different corys is six lonely fish. Six of the same cory is a functioning social group.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks

    The most common mistake I see with 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss are adaptable.

    What Are Cory Catfish?

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like

    Cory catfish are small freshwater fish from the Corydoras genus. These shoaling fish are native to South America where an amazing 160+ species are known- with many more probably waiting to be described. They range in size from an inch or so to over 4 inches in length and are solidly built with armor-like scales.

    Cory cats aren’t very colorful, but they are very entertaining to watch as they forage around in the tank, periodically shooting up to the surface to take a breath of air. They love to hang out in groups and should always be kept in schools in the aquarium.

    Interestingly, the first ray of their pectoral fins forms a strong, sharp spine that may be tipped in toxic venom. This is probably an adaptation to make predators think twice about eating them. They are not aggressive at all, but it is best to not handle these fish with bare hands.

    10 Best Cory Catfish Types

    Now that you know a little more about these fish, it’s time to jump right in and get to know the 10 most popular types of cory catfish that you can keep. For each corydoras fish species, I’ll be providing the most important stats that you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more blog detail below. If you like our video, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

    So let’s get started!

    1. Pygmy

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6.4-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pygmy cory is the perfect species for nano aquariums. These silvery schoolers have a prominent black line along their sides, from their eyes to their tails. Pygmy cories are extremely peaceful, and even a little shy around bigger, more boisterous fish.

    Keep them with other small fish species to bring out the best in them. A group of at least 5 or more will look great and allow them to show their natural schooling behavior.

    2. Longfin Panda

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The longfin (video source) is a great variety of the regular panda cory. These schooling fish are an awesome choice for community aquariums.

    The long and flowing caudal fin definitely adds to their appeal. Panda corydoras are very social and peaceful fish that love to hang out in a group, so be sure to order at least 5 of them to really enjoy their natural behavior.

    3. Albino Aeneus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aeneus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These albino corydoras catfish are a pure white version of the bronze cory catfish (Corydoras aeneus). Their pinkish-white coloration makes them really stand out, especially with good lighting and a dark background and substrate.

    Albino bronze corys are solidly built little cory catfish that get a little larger than most other types of corydoras. They are a great choice for a peaceful community setup with other similarly sized tropical fish.

    4. Panda Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10-20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The panda cory is one of the most popular species in the hobby. These schooling fish are very recognizable with the black markings on their face, tail, and dorsal fin.

    Panda cories bred in the aquarium trade are adapted to water temperatures in the mid-70s, but in the wild, they can survive in cooler water temperatures down to the upper 60s (Fahrenheit).

    5. Habrosus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras habrosus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Venezuela & Colombia
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The habrosus cory is commonly known as the salt and pepper cory. This nano fish species is very similar to the pygmy corydoras but is a little more boldly marked. Another good way to tell them apart is to look at the dark line down their sides – in this species, the line is broken.

    Like Corydoras pygmaeus, these schooling cories are active swimmers that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. I suggest keeping at least 5 of these nano schoolers, but go for 10 or more if you have the room!

    6. Paleatus

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras paleatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The paleatus, or pepper cory catfish, is a great species of cory for beginners. These affordable fish are commonly known as the peppered corydoras because of their finely blotched pattern.

    Peppered cory catfish should be kept in a small group to bring out the best in their personalities.

    7. Sterba’s

    Corydoras Sterbai
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras sterbai
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-77ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.2-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Sterba’s cory is one of my favorite corydoras of all. These stunning little cory catfish are very peaceful and look amazing in a tropical community aquarium.

    Sterba’s cory is a pretty dark species, that is heavily marked with black lines and silver dots. Their most distinctive feature is probably the golden yellow color of their pectoral and pelvic fins.

    8. Simillis Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras similis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The similis cory (video source) is one of the best-looking species out there. They have a finely spotted body, with a darker area near the tail.

    These cory catfish types are a great choice for a blackwater amazon biotope, but they will be very happy in a regular planted setup too.

    9. Adolfo Cory-Cat

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aldolfoi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Corydoras catfish (video source) are not really known for bright colors, but the adolfo cory is certainly one of the bolder species! These fish are silvery-white with black markings and have a distinctive orange mark on their backs. They are most at home in acidic stained water.

    10. False Julii-Cory

    Corydoras trilineatus
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Suriname
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The false julii cory catfish gets its name because it looks a lot like the regular julii corydoras catfish (Corydoras julii). They are striking little fish with silvery bodies covered in interesting plack patterns.

    They are an active species that will entertain you with plenty of antics if kept in a nice school of at least 6.

    Other Species

    There are a huge number of different corydoras species. In fact, with more than 160 types of cory catfish, they form the largest genus of freshwater fish in the world!

    Here’s a list of other common corydoras you might come across in pet stores and the aquarium trade.

    • Julii cory – Corydoras julii
    • Bandit cory – Corydoras metae
    • Three stripe cory – Corydoras trilineatus
    • Leopard cory – Corydoras leopardus
    • Skunk cory – Corydoras arcuatus
    • Dwarf corydoras – Corydoras hastatus
    • Orange laser cory – Corydoras aeneus
    • Agassizi cory – Corydoras agassizi

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for cory catfish is easy. The nano species like pygmy corydoras can thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but many of the larger species will do much better in community tanks of at least 30 gallons or so. As with all aquarium fish, the bigger the tank the better!

    Let’s take a look at how to set up your aquarium for cory catfish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Choosing the right substrate is more important for keeping cories than you might think! These cory catfish have fine whisker-like structures around their mouths that are known as barbels. These barbels are used to forage for food in the substrate, but they can be easily damaged on sharp gravel.

    This is known as barbel erosion and its causes are not universally agreed on. Fine sand is the best substrate choice because this is what the fish are able to dig through without hurting themselves.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    A layer of just half an inch or less is ideal because it will allow the fish to search right down to the bottom of the tank and consume any uneaten food.

    Live Plants

    Growing some floating plants and epiphytes in the tank can enhance the look of your aquarium while improving water quality and oxygenation. The following species are easy to grow and don’t need any special lighting or equipment:

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most types of cory catfish prefer low lighting, but they will also be very happy in a well-lit planted tank, especially if the plants provide some shade. They will also enjoy some hides and caves in the form of ornaments or carefully arranged hardscapes.

    Cory catfish need great water quality, so a good quality water filtration system is essential. Many breeders make use of simple sponge filters, but a canister, hang-on back, or internal power filter is a more aesthetically pleasing option for a beautiful display tank.

    Any filter you select should provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Choose a model that matches your aquarium tank size and is able to process the volume of water about 5 times every hour.

    How To Take Care Of Your Pet

    Cory catfish are simple to care for, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in the fish-keeping hobby. With the right tank setup, good maintenance, and a high-quality diet, these fish can provide you with years of enjoyment in a tropical community tank.

    Read on to learn more about caring for these fun little bottom feeders!

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is especially important when keeping cory catfish. These fish do not tolerate poor water quality well and can be affected by serious conditions like barbel erosion in a neglected tank.

    Stay on top of your maintenance by performing a simple water change each week. Make sure to clean the substrate thoroughly with your gravel vacuum, because this is where your cory catfish forage and hang out.

    You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor the water parameters in your tank. The test results should always read zero parts ammonia and nitrites in a fully cycled aquarium. Nitrates will build up naturally in any stocked aquarium but should be kept to below 20 parts per million.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most cory catfish are bottom dwellers that spend their time digging through the substrate or resting on the sand. They can be very active too and often enjoy swimming up and down the tank at high speed. They are very social creatures and just love shoaling together.

    The nano species like habrosas and pygmy corys are a little different. They are more active swimmers and will spend their time schooling in the midwater levels of the tank.

    Cory catfish are omnivorous and will eat just about any food source you provide. Unfortunately, some inexperienced fishkeepers make the mistake of not feeding them at all. While they do make an awesome part of the clean-up crew, this doesn’t mean they don’t need a high-quality diet.

    Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

    • Flake foods and granules
    • Sinking pellets and wafers
    • Gel foods
    • Frozen foods
    • Live baby brine shrimp
    • Black worms

    Breeding

    Cory catfish can be bred at home with a little planning and preparation. You’ll need a separate breeding tank of about ten gallons or so with a simple sponge filter for the best results. You should put in a spawning mop of synthetic wool or a live plant like java moss where the females can deposit their eggs.

    A group of 2 females and four males is a good bet and they should be well-conditioned after moving them into the breeding tank. The males are a little smaller than the females and have more pointed fins. Feeding them a high-quality diet including plenty of live/frozen food will get the fish ready to spawn.

    Frequent water changes are necessary and replacing the old water with slightly cooler water will often trigger spawning. The spawning behavior is interesting to watch, with the pair forming a T-shape. The eggs are laid on the spawning mop or even just the aquarium glass.

    Remove the adults once eggs have been laid. They should hatch after about 5 days and will need to be fed a diet of micro worms once they reach the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    All types of cory catfish are the perfect fish for community tanks because they are just so peaceful. Most species can be kept with adult shrimp, but you can expect juvenile shrimp to be snacked on.

    Cory catfish should only be kept with other small fish that won’t bully them, or try to eat them. They can be kept with other bottom-dwelling species, but take care not to overstock your tank with bottom-feeders. Let’s take a look at some other fish that can be kept with corydoras:

    Where To Buy

    Corydoras are such popular fish that you can find them at most pet shops and aquarium stores. There are some great online retailers like Flipaquatics that have made a name for themselves by selling high-quality stock and making the delivery process super easy and safe for the fish too.

    FAQs

    How many species are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many species of Corydoras are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many Corydoras should be kept together?

    Corydoras catfish are social fish that love to hang out in groups. In nature they can often be found in huge shoals, so the more you can keep without overstocking your tank, the better.

    Is 4 of these enough?

    Ideally, you should keep at least 6 cory catfish of the same species together. They will survive just fine in a group of 4 but you might not see them performing all their natural behaviors. They are a natural schooling species.

    What is the biggest size?

    The banded cory (Scleromystax barbatus) is the largest of all the cory catfish types. They might not be a true corydoras species, but they used to be considered a member of the same genus. These beautiful fish can grow to 4 inches in length and have awesome markings.

    Are they good for beginners?

    Cory catfish are great fish for beginners. They are reasonably priced, easy to find at most pet stores and work great as a community fish in many modern aquariums.

    Is the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Right for You?

    Before you add a 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Cory catfish are amazing pets for tropical freshwater aquariums. They stay small, are sweet-natured, and help to clean up uneaten food from their messy tank mates! Choosing the perfect species can be tough with all the options, but the ten fish in this list are all worth considering for your aquarium.

    What are your favorite types of cory catfish? Let me know in the comments below!