Tag: Freshwater

Endlers are smaller, hardier, and less inbred than fancy guppies. They are also relentless breeders that will overrun a tank in months. Pure strains are increasingly hard to find because they hybridize with guppies constantly.

Endlers breed faster than you can rehome them. Have a plan before you start.

The biggest challenge with Endlers Livebearers to A is not keeping them alive. It is managing how fast they multiply.

The Endlers Livebearers to A breeds constantly and lives 3 to 5 years. You need a plan for fry before you buy your first pair, or your tank will be overrun within months.

Livebearers teach you more about population management than any textbook ever will.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Endlers Livebearers. A Complete
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins and Habitat
• What Do Endlers Livebearers Look Like?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What Are Good Tank Mates?
• What Do They Eat?
• Setting Up Your Tank
• Breeding
• Is the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Right for You?
• How the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts
• The Reality of Keeping Endlers Livebearers to A

When it comes to choosing a fish for your tank, there are endless possibilities. However, one of the best options for starters is the Endler’s livebearer. These little beauties are vibrant and easy to care for, making them an excellent choice for anyone just getting started with keeping fish. In this guide, we’ll go over the complete care guide.

Pure Endlers are getting harder to find because hybridization with guppies is everywhere. What the store calls an Endler might not be one.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Endlers Livebearers. A Complete

The most common mistake I see with endlers livebearers. A completes is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Endlers Livebearers. A Completes look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, endlers livebearers. A completes are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.

The Reality of Keeping Endlers Livebearers to A

Breeding is not optional. It is automatic. If you have males and females, you will have fry within weeks. Most new owners are not prepared for the population explosion. You need a plan, whether that is a grow-out tank, selling to a local store, or keeping predators that naturally control numbers.

Water hardness matters more than people realize. Livebearers come from hard, alkaline water. Keeping them in soft, acidic conditions leads to chronic health problems, fin clamping, and shortened lifespans. If your tap water is soft, livebearers are not ideal unless you buffer the water.

Male aggression is constant. Males chase females relentlessly. Without a ratio of at least two females per male, the females get stressed, stop eating, and weaken. Overcrowding males does not solve this. It makes it worse.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Buying one male and one female thinking it will be manageable. Within three months you have 30 to 50 fish in a tank designed for 10. Always plan for breeding output before you buy your first pair.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Poecilia wingei
Common Names	Endler’s livebearers, Endlers, Endler’s guppy, guppies
Family	Poeciliidae
Origin	Venezuela
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	1-3 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Middle and top
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	64 ° to 82 °F
Water Hardness	1. 12 dKH
pH Range	5.5 – 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Low to moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Livebearer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Endler’s Livebearer
Scientific Name	Poecilia wingei
Order	Cyprinodontiformes
Family	Poeciliidae
Genus	Poecilia
Species	P. Wingei

Origins and Habitat

Authentic Endlers originate from the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoons in northeastern Venezuela. These areas are very unique in their formation as they were originally categorized as having brackish water conditions. This was the result of a sandbar being formed over time which created a division from the nearby ocean. As freshwater runoff and rain filled the lagoon, it slowly became less and less brackish until it became fully freshwater.

Upon the discovery of Endlers in the wild, this water was notably warm and hard with algae covering most surfaces; this is different from the habitats of other related species that enjoy cooler waters instead.

Right now, this ecosystem is threatened by runoff from a nearby waste facility. The status of wild populations of Poecilia wingei is currently unknown and undocumented by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species¹, though it is believed that numbers are dwindling. It is also believed that Endlers have spread to nearby areas of Venezuela, which brings some hope to their remaining populations.

Interestingly, Endlers were originally discovered in 1937 by Franklyn F. Bond and then later discovered in 1975 by John Endler.

Recent findings suggest that Endlers are undoubtedly a species of their own separate from Poecilia reticulata and another closely related guppy, Poecilia obscura. There have also been attempts to group these three guppies in their own subgenus called Acanthophacelus.

For now, the debate carries on about exactly how these species are related.

What Do Endlers Livebearers Look Like?

When placed next to a typical freshwater guppy, it’s clear to see how Endlers is the same species.

Endlers grow to be about 1 inch at their absolute biggest. They have slim bodies with a round stomach and rounded tail. These fish display sexual dimorphism like regular guppies, which makes the males easy to identify from the females.

Standard Endlers livebearer females are very plain in color. They are brownish-green in coloration with a white abdominal cavity. Endlers livebearer males are much more desirable due to their smaller bodies yet bright colorations. Males have orange streaks down the sides of their bodies that continue onto the margins of their tapered fins. Patterning across the body is random with overlays of black, yellow, and sometimes blue or white. The base color is similar to that of the female.

However, breeding Endlers livebearers has become a specialization in order to achieve the best colors and patterns possible. Because wild populations aren’t accessible, almost every Endlers livebearer fish available in the hobby is the result of selective breeding. From this, a few different varieties have been made popular.

Varieties

The original types of Endlers livebearer guppy are those that were collected when wild populations could still be found. These guppies are known as the Campoma guppy and many of the Endlers available today are descendants from this line.

Other varieties have also been bred from this line:

El Silverado Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Silverado’). Male El Silverado’s have nearly metallic bodies with a large silver patch accented by orange, black, and green markings.

El Tigre Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Tigre’). Male El Tigre’s have a nearly black base color. Along the sides of their body are alternating yellow, green, orange, and darker grey striping.

Yellow Tiger Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘Yellow Tiger’). Male Yellow Tiger’s are very ornate with unique black and yellow patterning covering the majority of their body. In contrast, females are plain and standard colors.

In order to preserve the natural colors found in wild populations, Endlers have been bred with common guppies. In the aquarium hobby, these fish are referred to as a ‘Class K’ Endler. Fish that is traced originating from Venezuela are known as a ‘Class N’ Endler.

One of the truest variations of Endlers is the Red Flame Endler’s Livebearer. These peaceful fish have splashes of green, orange, black, and white and represent the standard appearance of this species.

Size

As mentioned before, female Endlers livebearers only grow to be about 1 inch. Male endler’s livebearers can range anywhere from 0.5-1.0 inches and are significantly smaller than their mates. This is in comparison to the common guppy which can grow up to 2.0 inches.

As we’ll discuss, these mature sizes make them the perfect candidates for nano aquariums, but their high activity levels will need to be considered. The small size of the endlers livebearer also makes them more susceptible to getting caught up in aquarium filtration, like filters and powerheads.

Temperament and Activity Level

Endlers livebearers are very active swimmers that will stay towards the top and middle sections of the aquarium; they may venture down to the lower portions of the tank from time to time but you’ll most often find them waiting to be fed at the surface.

In terms of temperament and activity level, these freshwater fish are identical to guppies. They’re constantly moving, looking for something to eat or a female to chase. Because of this, it’s important to keep a high female to male ratio to keep fish from getting stressed out.

Otherwise, these the Endler’s livebearer will show their brightest colors when happy and healthy.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

Endlers livebearers are the perfect community freshwater fish. They don’t bother anyone but themselves and can add beautiful accents of color to an otherwise boring stocking.

In general, male and female Endlers livebearers is kept with any fish that is labeled as community-friendly. However, these fish are highly active which could easily stress out other fish sharing the same areas of the tank.

That being said, some of the best Endlers fish tank mates are:

• Tetras
• Danios
• Cory catfish
• Bolivian ram cichlids
• African dwarf frogs
• Other Endlers

Betta fish are okay. While males can chase and try to pick at Endlers, they are faster than guppies and mollies so they are okay in larger tanks.

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Endlers are schooling fish. They are naturally bold and curious on their own but they are most comfortable in a group setting.

At the same time, you will need to keep a high ratio between male and female Endler’s livebearers to prevent harassment. I recommend you have three females for every one male Endler. The starting number of fish should be around three or four and should be increased depending on tank size.

If male Endlers ever outnumber female Endlers, you may have a problem with bullying and/or overpopulation.

Least Compatible Fish

Just as common guppies are fed as feeder fish to bigger prey, Endlers will also be seen as prey to some aggressive species.

A good rule of thumb is to avoid freshwater fish that would be able to fit an Endler in their mouth. Though fast, Endlers make a good snack, especially if they’re annoying another larger fish by being too active.

Surprisingly, another bad tank mate for Endlers is the common guppy. This isn’t because these two fish won’t get along, but it’s because they’ll get along too well. Guppies and Endlers have been known to hybridize and produce fertile offspring. While this isn’t a problem as long as those fish stay in contained systems, authentic Endler lineages is lost in the process.

If you don’t mind losing the true appearance of the guppy or Endler guppy, then this combination is possible. Otherwise, one or the other should be chosen.

Inverts

Endlers livebearers are a popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks, like those with red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) and Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata).

These fish stay at the top of the tank while the shrimp stay at the bottom. There is little to no chance that an Endler guppy can fit a shrimp into their mouths, though they may pick at any smaller fry that are in the aquarium.

Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers are completely invert-safe and is kept with snails and microcrabs. Some larger crabs and crayfish could see your Endler guppies as a meal, though they may be too fast to catch.

What Do They Eat?

Endlers livebearers are omnivores with extremely small mouths. They aren’t picky eaters and will even enjoy grazing on some of the available algae throughout the tank, but will display their best colors when provided with a well-varied and high-quality diet.

For the most part, these fish will do just fine on a high-protein freshwater fish flake food or pellet food like Xtreme Aquatics Nano. Flakes are more preferred for beginners as they is easily broken up for easier feeding.

Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers may be given a variety of live and frozen foods. They’ll especially love an assortment of worms, like bloodworms and Tubifex worms, as well as brine shrimp. They may also be given blanched vegetables from time to time as long as they can easily be digested by your fish.

How Much and How Often to Feed

Chances are that you’ll be greeted at the top of the tank by a group of hungry Endlers any time you go to open the aquarium hood. These fish are always willing to eat! But keep in mind, the more you feed, the more waste they will make.

Endler’s livebearers are very small yet very active fish. This means that they can’t eat a lot at one time, but they need energy throughout the day to keep them going. It’s recommended to feed manageable portions two to three times throughout the day. This schedule will keep them fed without introducing too much waste into the aquarium.

If the tank is mature and stocked with live plants, then these peaceful fish can get some of their nutrition from the microflora that’s already available. They’ll especially like picking at algae growing on guppy grass (Najas guadalupensis).

Setting Up Your Tank

Being a hardy community fish, Endler’s livebearers is kept in most tank setups. However, these fish look their best when the tank is set up around them to accent their colors and movements. If keeping some of the higher-end varieties, then you’ll especially want to show them off!

Tank Size

Most sites will say that a 10 gallon fish tank will happily house a small school of Endlers livebearers. While this is true, the top of the tank will likely be overwhelmed by their activity. It’s better to give them a slightly larger tank, like a 20 gallon long, where they have more surface area to fill.

Having a bigger tank also allows for more tank mates, though many hobbyists like to keep active livebearers together. At some point, it can become a little silly to have 100 Endlers in a 100 gallon fish tank!

Filtration

Endler’s livebearers are small, but they have a fast metabolism. This means that they will quickly process foods and fill the tank with waste. Because hobbyists have a large group of them, this can add up and can cause problematic water parameters, especially if the tank is fully stocked.

These fish can tolerate higher water flows and will even enjoy fighting against a strong current. However, an overly strong water flow can easily push these small fish around. Hang on the back and canister filters need to be baffled to keep your fish from getting hurt.

The better alternative to an external filter is an internal sponge filter. Not only do sponge filters keep the water clean and oxygenated, but they are also completely safe for more delicate fish, like Endlers.

Because many Endler’s livebearers are kept together at once, it is recommended to go with a bigger filter than what is recommended. Remember, waste can add up very quickly!

Water Parameters

Endlers livebearers are very hardy fish and will adapt to most water conditions as long as they don’t change too quickly. Making sure Ammonia and Nitrite are zero and nitrates are low are common things to check and monitor with a test kit. You can enhance your filtration and perform water changes and tank maintenance to maintain great parameters.

Unlike some other livebearers, Endler guppies actually prefer warmer and harder water. Water temperature should stay between 64°F. 82°F with 78°F being the most optimal for the success of other species. Most aquarium-bred Endlers have adapted to live in 1-12 dKH water hardness and a near-neutral pH of 7.0.

For the most part, these fish will forgive minor fluctuations in water parameters, making them a great and easy choice for beginners. Still, it is recommended to properly quarantine and acclimate new fish before adding them to the aquarium to reduce the risk of shock and transfer of disease.

Breeding

Not only are Endlers livebearers incredibly hardy, but they’re also some of the easiest fish to breed in the aquarium hobby (video by The Dave). So much so that you’ll actually have problems getting them to stop breeding rather than to start.

Male Endlers are very easy to tell apart from females. At least three females should be kept per male at all times. If you don’t want to end up with a hundred baby Endlers in your aquarium, only buy males or females. Do not combine them because they will breed.

Otherwise, breeding is a matter of when rather than how. Good water parameters, a high-quality diet, and a natural tank setting will all help your fish feel comfortable enough to reproduce.

When your fish are happy, you will notice the males flashing and displaying their fins to females, occasionally chasing after them too; note that males can become overly eager, damaging fins and even killing females in extreme cases. For the most part, this isn’t anything to worry about, though aggression should be monitored.

Once successful, females will have an average brood of about 15 baby fish; as a type of livebearer, Endlers do not lay eggs and fish are free-swimming once born. Adult females can reproduce again after about a month after spawning.

Fry is given small foods, like baby brine shrimp. To increase the odds of baby fish living to adulthood, remove them from the tank and place them into another system until they can’t be eaten; it is unlikely for adults to eat their young, but it’s possible if fish are underfed.

After about 2 months, the fry will be ready to reproduce on their own.

Is the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Right for You?

Before you add a endlers livebearers. A complete to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Endlers Livebearers. A Completes need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the endlers livebearers. A complete is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Endlers Livebearers. A Complete Compares to Similar Species

Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the endlers livebearers. A complete stacks up against some common alternatives.

The endlers livebearers. A complete occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the endlers livebearers. A complete or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the endlers livebearers. A complete needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Endlers livebearers are the perfect addition to community tanks lacking in color. These fish are small yet highly active and very forgiving when it comes to beginner’s mistakes. Though they’re recommended for smaller tanks, we recommend giving more space for them to swim and explore.

Plus, it’s better to have more room than not enough when your fish start to reproduce!

Molly Fish are sold as beginner fish but they are not. They need hard, alkaline water, real filtration, and more space than most people give them. In soft, acidic water they get sick constantly. In the right water, they are bulletproof.

Mollies are not hard to keep. They are hard to keep in the wrong water.

Mollies are not hard to keep. They are hard to keep in the wrong water.

The biggest challenge with Molly Fish is not keeping them alive. It is managing how fast they multiply.

The Molly Fish breeds constantly and lives 3 to 5 years. You need a plan for fry before you buy your first pair, or your tank will be overrun within months.

Livebearers teach you more about population management than any textbook ever will.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Molly Fish
• Brief Overview Of The Molly Fish
• Classification
• Molly Fish Origins and Habitat
• What Do They Look Like?
• Size
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What Are Good Tank Mates
• What Do They Eat?
• Setting Up Your Tank
• Water Quality
• Breeding
• Health And Disease
• Where To Buy
• FAQS
• Is the Molly Fish Right for You?
• How the Molly Fish Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts
• The Reality of Keeping Molly Fish

Mollies are one of the most underappreciated livebearers. They get lumped in with guppies and platies as beginner fish, which is fair, but there’s something that sets them apart: they’re one of the few freshwater fish that can genuinely tolerate brackish water and even light saltwater. I’ve seen mollies kept successfully in reef sumps. They also do noticeably better with a little aquarium salt and harder water than most fishkeepers bother with. Skip the salt and keep them in soft, acidic water and you’ll eventually see the shimmy disease that mollies are famous for. A wobbling, shimmying behavior that signals stress or illness. Get the conditions right and they’re virtually bulletproof. Here’s the full care guide.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Molly Fish

The most common mistake I see with molly fishs is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Molly Fishs look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, molly fishs are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything. In my experience, keeping them closer to their natural soft, slightly acidic conditions brings out the best color and longevity.

The Reality of Keeping Molly Fish

Breeding is not optional. It is automatic. If you have males and females, you will have fry within weeks. Most new owners are not prepared for the population explosion. You need a plan, whether that is a grow-out tank, selling to a local store, or keeping predators that naturally control numbers.

Water hardness matters more than people realize. Livebearers come from hard, alkaline water. Keeping them in soft, acidic conditions leads to chronic health problems, fin clamping, and shortened lifespans. If your tap water is soft, livebearers are not ideal unless you buffer the water.

Male aggression is constant. Males chase females relentlessly. Without a ratio of at least two females per male, the females get stressed, stop eating, and weaken. Overcrowding males does not solve this. It makes it worse.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Buying one male and one female thinking it will be manageable. Within three months you have 30 to 50 fish in a tank designed for 10. Always plan for breeding output before you buy your first pair.

Brief Overview Of The Molly Fish

Scientific Name	Poecilia sphenops, P. Latipinna, P. Velifera, etc.
Common Names	Molly, molly fish, sailfin molly, shortfin molly, balloon molly, etc.
Family	Poeciliidae
Origin	United States of America, Mexico, Colombia, Venezuela, etc.
Diet	Omnivorous
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	High
Lifespan	2 – 5 years
Temperament	Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
Tank Level	Midwater
Minimum Tank Size	15 gallons
Temperature Range	72 ° to 82 °F
Water Hardness	15 – 30dH
pH Range	7.0 to 8.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Low to Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Live bearer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Mostly, may eat soft plants

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Molly Fish
Scientific Name	Poecilia sphenops / P. Latipinna
Order	Cyprinodontiformes
Family	Poeciliidae
Genus	Poecilia
Species	P. Sphenops

Molly Fish Origins and Habitat

The popular molly fish of the aquarium hobby are native to the North and South American countries of the United States, Mexico, Colombia, and Venezuela. They have also been introduced to some Caribbean islands and East Asian countries.

In nature, the molly fish lives in a huge variety of different habitats. Mollies are euryhaline, which means they can live in varying salinity.

They are most often found in freshwater environments, temporarily moving into brackish water in coastal areas. They are also occasionally found living and breeding in pure saltwater too, which is really amazing!

What Do They Look Like?

Molly fish are so variable in shape, color, and markings, that it’s tough to describe just what they look like! I’ll go into a little more detail on the various species and breeds in the next section, but speaking, mollies are solidly built mid-sized aquarium fish.

One very noticeable feature is the unusually thick base (peduncle) to their tails. On the opposite end, their heads are sharply pointed in profile when viewed from the side. The head is wide across when viewed from above, with their mouths positioned right in front of their faces.

They also have very big eyes, and their lower jaw sticks out a little further than the top. These are the features that are most obvious in all mollies.

Species

There are about 40 species in the Poecilia genus, including other well-known livebearers such as the common guppy. A handful of common molly species are popular in the aquarium trade, and they have been bred with each other to produce hybrids and various color morphs.

Let’s take a look at some of the more common molly fish types:

Sailfin Molly – Poecilia latipinna

Sailfin mollies have huge dorsal fins that they can lift up to look just like a sail. This is a natural body feature that the males use to impress the females. These beautiful fish are scientifically known as Poecilia latipinna.

Sailfin mollies are relatively small, reaching a maximum length of about 5 inches. This species actually occurs naturally in the United States, living wild as far north as North Carolina.

Shortfin Molly/ Black – Poecilia sphenops

The shortfin or black molly is one of the most common types of molly. Black mollies are smaller than the sailfin, reaching a maximum size of less than 5 inches.

In the wild, they are naturally silvery with some color on their fins. The black molly fish is the most popular color breed of this species.

Giant Sailfin- Poecilia velifera

The giant sailfin molly fish is the largest of the common species. These Mexican fish can reach a length of 7 inches in the aquarium. They have a huge dorsal fin like the regular sailfin but is told apart by having more fin rays (18-19), and round spots on this fin.

Varieties

The various molly species are able to interbreed, and aquarists have crossed them to create an amazing array of different varieties. Selective breeding has refined the results, creating fish with different body shapes, finnage, colors, and patterns.

Here are a few of the most popular molly types:

• White Molly Fish

White mollies are a pure, bright silvery color. They should not be confused with albinos which have more yellowish color and pink eyes.

• Golden Molly Fish

Mollies are also available in amazing golden-orange colors. They is uniformly golden colored or flecked with black like the gold dust molly. Specimens that are partially golden and partially white are known as creamsicle mollies.

• Dalmatian Molly Fish

Dalmation mollies are whitish fish that are covered in fine black spots, just like dalmatian dogs. The blotching is quite variable, and these fish are sometimes known as marbled, or salt-and-pepper mollies.

• Lyretail Molly

Lyretail molly fish have elongated rays at the top and bottom of their tail fins. Lyretail mollies are available in all the different colors varieties, which makes them great for aquarists who want that extra bit of flair in their aquarium.

• Balloon Molly

Balloon molly fish come in a variety of colors, including black, white, golden, and marbled. What sets balloon mollies apart is their rounded bodies, almost like an inflated balloon! This is not a natural feature, however, but rather a trait that has been selectively bred for.

Size

Molly fish vary in size depending on their species, variety, and gender. Adult mollies vary from a little over 3 inches, right up to about 7 inches in length. Females are larger than males, but this is not always the case.

Temperament and Activity Level

Mollies are active and confident fish that are always busy and lively. They are peaceful community fish, but here are a few scenarios in which mollies is semi-aggressive. We have a video from our YouTube Channel that goes into detail about their care and temperature. Check it out below.

Mollies are very peaceful with the other species of fish in the tank, especially if they are kept in a group. Males is a little aggressive with one another when competing to breed, however. They will also harass the females pretty relentlessly, which is normal behavior for the species.

If you don’t mind your fish breeding, the ideal stocking rate is a ratio of one male to two or three females. This will take some of the pressure off the females.

They can also be quite competitive with each other around mealtimes. As long as each fish is getting enough to eat, this isn’t too much of a concern though.

What Are Good Tank Mates

Mollies are great fish for a carefully planned hard water community tank. They are highly versatile and these fish thrive in many different setups provided they are happy with the water parameters.

Choosing the right tank mates for your molly fish is very important too, of course, so read on to learn about some great options.

Best Tank Mates For Companions

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The first thing to note is that all tankmates should be comfortable in the same hard water conditions that your mollies prefer. Mollies is kept in anything from fresh to saltwater, so I’ve grouped these tank mates according to the type of water they live in.

Mollies are euryhaline fish, but most other species are not, so never mix other freshwater fish with saltwater tank mates or vice versa.

Freshwater tankmates

• Other molly species
• Loaches
• Honey gouramis
• Other livebearers like guppies, platies, and swordtails
• Rainbowfish
• Some barbs and tetras
• Other small, peaceful freshwater fish that are adaptable to hard water

Brackish Water Tankmates

• Other mollies
• Chromides
• Gobies

Saltwater Tank Mates

Molly fish are one of the few fish in our hobby than is converted over to a saltwater aquarium. There are steps on how to do this (more on this later). They make great algae eaters, but they are small in comparison to many saltwater fish and may be bullied. Here are a few possible candidates.

• Other mollies
• Percula clownfish
• Peaceful blennies and gobies
• Royal grammas

Least Compatible Fish For Companions

As adaptable and versatile as mollies are, some fish will not get along with them. Take note of the following tips to avoid any problems:

• Avoid tank mates that need soft acidic water conditions
• Avoid any aggressive tank mates that could eat or bully your mollies
• Keeping mollies with shrimp is not recommended
• Avoid very small and shy fish that are easily intimidated

What Do They Eat?

Mollies are omnivorous fish that eat both plant and animal matter. Sailfin mollies in particular need plenty of plant material in their diet. They are not fussy eaters and actually do a great job of cleaning up scraps and uneaten food in the aquarium.

Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

Prepared Foods

• Fish Flakes
• Wafers
• Pellets
• Granules

Live & Frozen Foods

• Brine shrimp
• Blood worms
• Daphnia
• Blackworms

Vegetables

• Zucchini
• Lettuce
• Spinach

Algae

Mollies love to eat biofilm, and surface scum. They are also known to eat other types of algae like green algae, black beard algae (BBA), hair algae, brown algae, and blue-green algae. This makes them valuable members of your clean-up crew!

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

One of the most common mistakes in the fishkeeping hobby is overfeeding. But how do you know how much food your fish need?

Mollies don’t waste time when there’s food around, so if they haven’t finished everything after 2 minutes or so, you can assume you’ve given them too much food.

Sure, they might finish the leftovers later, but what about the food that gets sucked into the filter, settles in the gravel, and otherwise goes to waste? Well, this leftover food rot and results in poor water quality.

That’s why it is best to feed small amounts 2 or 3 times a day, rather than a large amount just once a day.

Setting Up Your Tank

Setting up a great aquarium for mollies is easy because these fish are very adaptable. Nevertheless, there are some important things to know before putting a tank together. Read on for more details.

Tank Size

Molly fish is kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, and sometimes even less. In such a small tank, you could keep up to four mollies if you have good water filtration and perform regular aquarium maintenance. A 20 gallon long is a good candidate to start with.

A larger tank would be a better bet, however, especially if you plan on keeping a bigger school or other species of community fish.

Plants

Mollies thrive in planted aquariums. Beware though, mollies are omnivorous fish and they have been known to feed on delicate, soft-leaved plants. Tougher species like these plans below will do well with Molly fish:

• Vallisneria
• Amazon swords
• Java ferns

A mix of tall plants like Vallisneria in the background with Java ferns in the midground and some anubias nana petite in the foreground could make a tough and simple but beautiful planted aquascape for these fish.

Substrate

Substrate type is not critical when it comes to keeping mollies. Any aquarium-safe sand or gravel will work just fine. If your water is not naturally hard and alkaline, it is a good idea to incorporate some crushed coral into the substrate.

Decor

Molly fish are not particular about the decorations in their tanks so you can use your creativity to put together an aquarium that suits your eye.

Adding some driftwood and rocks is a great way to create a more natural tank environment, but there’s nothing wrong with putting in some aquarium-safe ornaments and decorations too.

Water Quality

Mollies are known as hardy fish. So much so that experienced keepers use them to cycle new fresh and saltwater aquariums.

Nevertheless, maintaining high water quality is very important if you care about keeping your fish in good health for the long run. Maintaining great water quality for your mollies relies primarily on good filtration and aquarium maintenance.

Read on to learn more about these, and other important water quality factors.

Filtration

A good filtration system means the difference between a sparking, pristine aquarium, and a toxic and dangerous environment for your fish. Aquarium filters work by literally filtering out particles in the water, a process known as mechanical filtration.

You might not know how much more is happening behind the scenes though!

Microscopic life forms known as beneficial bacteria take up position and colonize the sponge and other media in the aquarium filter. These beneficial bacteria make their living by feeding on some pretty toxic chemical compounds (like ammonia) that enter the water through fish waste and uneaten food. This process is known as biological filtration and is very important for your fish.

Air-powered sponge filters, internal power filters, hang-on back filters, and external canister filters can all be used to perform these vital functions. Just make sure the filter you choose is rated to filter your tank size or larger.

Water Parameters

Mollies are adaptable to a fairly wide range of water temperatures from about 70°F to a little over 80°F. This means they is kept in unheated aquariums in many cases.

I would recommend using a heater to keep the water temperature stable in the middle of that range because they are comfortable in tropical climates with warmer water.

Mollies can live in fresh, brackish, or even saltwater. In a freshwater aquarium, they must be kept in hard or at least fairly hard water for their long-term health and survival. The alkalinity should be basic, i.e. Above 7.2.

Even though they have a reputation as hardy fish, mollies are not immune to the effects of ammonia and nitrite in the water. Aim for the following levels:

• Nitrate (NO3): Less than 20 parts per million
• Nitrite (NO2): Zero parts per million
• Ammonia (NH3): Zero parts per million

Salt

One of the biggest debates around molly fish care is their salt requirements. Many fish keepers will tell you that you need to add salt to the aquarium to keep these fish happy, but this is not necessarily true.

The salt these fish require does not necessarily need to be regular aquarium salt (NaCl), even though they are highly tolerant of various salinities. Calcium and magnesium, i.e. The elements responsible for hardening water are essential, however.

Mixing crushed coral into your substrate or using a product like Seachem Equilibrium is a great way to increase water hardness if your tap water isn’t quite hard enough for mollies.

Acclimating To Saltwater

You may have heard that some aquarists keep mollies in saltwater. As strange as this sounds, it’s absolutely true! Properly acclimated mollies make awesome saltwater fish because they are so affordable and do a great job of eating certain kinds of algae. The video above from Everyday Aquarist goes through the process. I’ll explain more below.

You shouldn’t pick up a couple of mollies from the pet store and drop them straight into a reef tank. Mollies are highly adaptable, but if the change in salinity is too rapid, they could go into osmotic shock.

The most successful techniques involve slowly replacing the freshwater with salt water over a period of one to two days. This gentle acclimation will be a lot less stressful for the fish. Just be sure to provide the fish with an airstone during this process if they are in a bucket or small tank for acclimation.

Slow acclimation is achieved by siphoning saltwater in from a tank or bucket and allowing the excess to overflow. The saltwater needs to be introduced very slowly, so a drip rather than a flow is recommended. An accudrip acclimator is used to make the setup easier.

Use a refractometer to measure and monitor the salinity of the water. Specific gravity should not go above 1.025.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is vitally important for keeping healthy molly fish. A weekly partial water change is recommended to keep nitrate levels down, and this is a good time to give the tank a general clean as well.

Remember to treat your tap water with a water conditioner before adding it to the tank. If your aquarium filter media needs to be rinsed out, use tank water that will not harm the hard-working colonies of beneficial bacteria.

Testing

Testing your water parameters regularly is absolutely vital if you wish to keep healthy mollies in the long run. Pick up a master test kit that is used to measure the following parameters:

• pH
• Hardness
• Ammonia
• Nitrate
• Nitrite

These are the most important parameters to keep an eye on if you are keeping mollies as freshwater fish, but if you are keeping them in brackish or saltwater, you’ll need a hydrometer to measure specific gravity too.

Breeding

It is very easy to breed mollies. These fish are livebearers, which means the females give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. If you have adult male and female mollies in your tank, and they are happy in their environment, they will breed freely.

Sexing Mollies

Successfully breeding molly fish requires having both males and females. But how do you tell the difference?

Fortunately, sexing these fish is easy once they are old enough to show differences in gender. This takes at least a few months with mollies.

Let’s take a look at some of the most noticeable gender differences:

• Male mollies are smaller and more colorful than females
• Male mollies have a larger dorsal fin than females
• Female mollies have a well-developed anal fin, whereas the anal fin of males is modified into a narrow, elongated structure known as a gonopodium
• Male mollies will spend a lot of time trying to entice the females. They will chase and swim around them
• A pregnant female molly will develop a large, rounded belly with a characteristic gravid spot just in front of the anal fin. This spot will be very difficult to see on a black molly fish

Raising & Protecting Fry

Molly fry are very small and vulnerable to being eaten by the other fish (including mollies) in the tank. Ideally, the pregnant female should be moved to a separate breeding tank before giving birth.

Alternatively, you can use a breeding box in your aquarium to keep the baby fish safe until they are too big to be swallowed. The fry is fed a diet of baby brine shrimp or flake food that is crushed up into a powder form.

Preventing Breeding

Female molly fish are pregnant for about 2 months, and can give birth to over 50 fry! This means the population of fish in your tank can rise pretty dramatically if you allow it.

The best way to prevent breeding is to keep only female fish. Pregnant females can store sperm for a few broods after mating, so separating adult mollies will not stop the female from producing fry right away.

Health And Disease

Naturally, you want your molly fish to live a long healthy life, so what are the problems to look out for? Read on to learn more about the health and wellness of these popular aquarium fish.

Evaluating Their Health

Evaluating your fish’s health requires careful observation. Start by looking at the fish’s physical appearance. Try to answer the following questions:

• Do the eyes look swollen or unhealthy?
• Are the fins torn or clamped against the body?
• Does the fish have very long stringy white feces?
• Is the fish covered in white spots or any tiny parasites?
• Is the fish very thin, or heavily swollen (skip this for balloon molly fish!)

If the fish looks physically healthy, there are still behavioral warning signs to look out for.

• Is the fish breathing rapidly?
• Is the fish having trouble swimming or just shimmying at the top of the tank?
• Is the fish flashing and scratching its body against the substrate?
• Is the fish floating or sinking?
• Is the fish avoiding food?

If you answer yes to any of these questions, there is most likely a problem with the fish. You can go through these questions before picking out your fish from the pet store, or just for monitoring your fish at home.

Common Health Issues

Mollies are most likely to suffer health problems when their tank conditions are not suitable. This is the result of soft water, poor water quality, or a lack of space in a crowded tank.

Mollies are bred in brackish waters, and the shock of being put into freshwater at the pet store or in your home is another potential problem. These are all causes of stress for your fish, and stress puts them at high risk of common freshwater diseases and disorders like:

• Ich
• Columnaris
• Velvet
• Popeye
• Camallanus worms
• Swim bladder disorders
• Shimmies/Livebearer/ Molly disease

Where To Buy

Mollies are common and easy to find down at your local pet store. They are affordable fish, although you can expect the price to vary depending on breed and color pattern.

They are also available online of course, which is great for aquarists who don’t have a good local fish store nearby.

FAQS

Hard Rule: Mollies need hard, alkaline water (pH 7.5–8.5, GH 15–25 dGH). Soft, acidic water causes disease, color fade, and early death – no matter how clean the rest of your parameters look.

Is the Molly Fish Right for You?

Before you add a molly fish to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Molly Fishs need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the molly fish is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:

• You keep soft-water species like discus, apistogrammas, or South American tetras in the same tank
• You have no plan for constant fry – mollies breed relentlessly without separation
• Your tap water is naturally soft and acidic and you are unwilling to buffer it
• You want a low-maintenance livebearer – mollies need consistently high water quality

How the Molly Fish Compares to Similar Species

Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the molly fish stacks up against some common alternatives.

The molly fish occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the molly fish or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the molly fish needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Mollies are hands-down one of the best fish in the hobby. They look great, they’re adaptable, and they’re great for eating algae too! I hope this article has cleared up some of the confusion for you and helps you keep your molly fish happy and healthy.

Do you keep mollies? Tell us about your experiences with these amazing fish in the comments below!

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Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Axolotls have become one of the most popular aquarium pets in recent years, and it’s easy to see why. They’re bizarre-looking, personable, and surprisingly long-lived when kept correctly. In captivity, axolotls regularly reach 10 to 15 years, and some make it to 20. In the wild, they’re nearly extinct (Lake Xochimilco in Mexico is essentially their last native habitat), so what we keep in tanks are captive-bred animals that actually tend to be healthier than their wild counterparts. The biggest thing I see kill axolotls early is temperature. They need cold water, 60 to 68°F, and most people don’t realize that. Get that right along with water quality, and you’re looking at a very long-lived companion. This article breaks down the 5 key factors that determine lifespan.

Unfortunately, axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat. And so, what we get here is the laboratory-bred and tank bred axolotls that live much longer than the native ones.

But before diving straight into the topic, let’s discuss why axolotls are endangered?

Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

Axolotls are critically endangered species, which are constantly declining in the wild and might go completely extinct in the near future.

There are a number of factors that resulted in their sharp decline. In 1998, research stated that there were 6,000 axolotls per square kilometer in the lake Xochimilco. However, today, the axolotl population dropped to 35.

So, where did we go wrong? The video above goes in detail (video from Frankie’s Aquatics). I’ll also add my points below. Let’s find out.

Water Contamination

The advancements and developments anywhere bring their own consequences. Thus, the recent developments in the Xochimilco regions resulted in water pollution, making these areas havoc for aquatic animals, especially axolotls.

Overfishing

It’s an old story of supply and demand; when the Mexican walking fish became a supreme delicacy in Mexico, the demand increased, leading to overfishing. And so, the numbers of axolotls in the wild kept decreasing.

Habitat Loss

The recent expansion of Mexico city almost completely destroyed and drained the lake Xochimilco, one of the principal habitats of axolotls.

Invasive Species

Mexicans introduced a number of invasive species in Lake Xochimilco that have decimated axolotls numbers in the wild, ultimately contributing to their shape decline. Axolotls themselves are invasive in some areas, with efforts from local government to make them illegal to own.

How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

It would surprise you that axolotls only live for about five to six years in the wild. And that’s because these species are endangered in their natural habitat due to habitat loss, fatal illness, or predators that prey on them.

Therefore, axolotls live for around five years to six years in the wild.

Factors that affect Their Lifespan

Like other salamander species, Axolotl’s life span mainly depends on the following factors. You can increase your axolotl life span by considering these factors and keeping them happy and healthy for an extended time.

1. Water Quality

If there is one thing that Axolotl cannot compromise, it is the tank’s water quality. Your axolotl tank’s suggested optimum water temperature is 59°F to 60°F (16-18°C). As an estimate, the water temperature should not exceed 75°F (24°C).

Additionally, the pH level of the water tank should be 7.4 – 7.6 to create a warm, welcoming environment for your smiley little pets. To increase Axolotl lifespan, your axolotl tank should be free of Chlorine and chloramines as they are harmful to your pet axolotls.

If Chlorine is detected in the water, I suggest installing a de-chlorinator to minimize the effects. Also, to get rid of the traces of Chlorine, water should be left standing for at least 24 hours before adding your Axolotl.

2. Tank Setup and Conditions

Axolotl spends their entire lives underwater, so their only home is the tank in which they live. Make sure to reward your adorable pets with the best and high-quality tank setup and conditions.

First of all, the tank size should suffice the needs of your Axolotl. The bare minimum tank size to house one juvenile axolotl is 10 gallons. However, the tank size should be no less than 20 gallons for adult axolotl. That’s because axolotls are solitary creatures, more like messy creatures that create a lot of waste. Thus, a small tank would create serious health problems in the long run.

Secondly, it is advised to change the tank water frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal infections. Also, water changes helps keep the ammonia levels low. Suppose you’re someone who cannot commit to changing the water regularly. In that case, I suggest installing canister filters as the water flow in canister filters is regulated to prevent stress-related diseases in your pet axolotl. Also, I don’t recommend plants in an axolotl tank as your pets might destroy them, causing a lot of mess in the tank. If you must, consider soft and flexible plants so your axolotls can pass through them quickly. I suggest keeping Java ferns for axolotl tanks.

Lastly, the best choice for the substrate is sand since the particles are soft and small and cause no potential damage if swallowed.

Additionally, there is absolutely no need for proper lighting in the axolotl tank. The fact that these creatures lack eyelids, intense lighting is quite stressful to animals. Also, they are nocturnal animals and enjoy the darkness. If lighting is a requirement for your plants, you can invest in an L.E.D. Bulb for your aquarium. Many pet stores stock such lights, which are dimmable and fully adjustable.

3. Food

Axolotls are carnivorous and voracious eaters that eat pretty much anything that comes their way. However, it’s essential to feed them nutritious food rich in proteins to extend axolotl lifespan. Axolotls feast on live food such as earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, salmon pellets, etc. However, juvenile axolotls can eat daphnia, white worms, and grindal worms. You can also hand-feed your Axolotl to experience an adorable pet-parent moment.

4. Handling

Axolotls are part of the salamander family are aloof in nature and like to mind their own business in a peaceful, stress-free environment. Therefore, minimal handling is required for axolotls, especially if you want them to live a happy, healthy, and long life.

Of course, you cannot avoid handling, especially while checking their skin or changing water, but it shouldn’t be done routinely. You can also keep Axolotl out of the water, although it is not recommended at all. That’s because axolotls have a slimy coat on their body which is destroyed by your hands, posing a threat to contact bacterial infection. Therefore, keep your axolotls in water and unbothered for a longer lifespan.

5. Tank Mates

Axolotls are like your introverted friends that love you but stay low-key. So, if you want to house other pets with your Axolotl, think again!

Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and they can easily harm other sleeping fish for a healthy meal. Here, I’m going to list the best axolotls tank mates for your convenience.

• Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
• Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
• Guppies
• Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
• White cloud minnows
• Other species of peaceful cool water fish

However, bear in mind that you would at least need a 55-gallon tank if you plan on keeping tank mates with your Mexican walking fish.

FAQs

Also, axolotls have a slimy coat on their skin, which might damage by the warmth of your hands, posing a severe threat to your axolotls.

Final Thoughts

So the answer to how long axolotls live is no longer a mystery. Axolotls, in captivity, can live for up to 10-15 years. Some may live longer for up to 20 years, provided their water and tank requirements are met.

Axolotl lifespan wholly and solely depends on how you keep it. Proper axolotl care includes tank size, water quality, food quality. If you get that all right, your smiley little pets will live longer and happier with you.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice