Author: Mark Valderrama

The 7 Best Aquarium Air Pumps [Tested and Reviewed]

Air pumps are one of those pieces of equipment I’ve tested more times than I can count. from whisper-quiet USB models to heavy-duty units running multiple sponge filters at once. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve learned that noise, output consistency, and durability vary wildly between brands, and the wrong choice leads to a humming annoyance on your nightstand or a dead pump mid-cycle. In this guide I’m breaking down the models that have actually held up in my experience.

Are you struggling with finding a quiet aquarium air pump?

In this blog, we share the best aquarium air pumps, from small sized ones to ones meant for larger setups.

With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in finding quality equipment that works. I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the quietest and highest quality air pumps on the market.

Expert Take

Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot

Most hobbyists think of air pumps as airstone accessories. That’s the wrong mental model. In my experience managing fish stores and running systems for 25+ years, the air pump is the backbone of sponge filter setups, hospital tanks, and emergency backup aeration. Get that right, and everything else falls into place.

Noise is the number one complaint I hear, and it’s almost always a placement or sizing problem, not a pump defect. A pump working against too much depth backpressure will hum louder than it should. Match the pump output to your actual depth and tank count, and most noise issues disappear.

Here’s how I frame the decision: single tank, quiet location, moderate depth? The Eheim wins outright. Multiple tanks or a deeper tank where backpressure matters? Step up to the Tetra AP series or a dual-outlet unit. Bedroom tank? Noise floor in decibels matters more than raw output. Don’t size up just because a pump is cheap.

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice

Eheim Air

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Quietest pump
Name brand

Best Value

Fluval Q Series

Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

Name brand
Well priced

Budget Option

Tetra Whisper

Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

Cheap
Good features

For those of you in a hurry, let’s get to the top picks right away. First off, if you want the best quality and the quietest out there the Eheim Air is a clear choice. This is the quiet air pump on the market and the Eheim brand is well known for last forever. The best value would be the M series by Fluval. It’s as cheap as lesser brands and still has the Fluval name behind it. It’s also pretty powerful for its size. Lastly, the tetra whisper is the go to for budget air pump. It has good features for the price and very easy to find even in chain pet stores.

Mark’s #1 Pick

Eheim Air Pump for most freshwater setups. The reason is simple: it’s the only plug-in pump on this list that stays quiet under real working conditions, not just in a quiet room with no load. Pair it with a quality airstone and it’ll run sponge filters or hospital tanks for years without the diaphragm rattle you get from budget units. If you’re in a bedroom or a quiet living room, there’s no real competition at this price tier.

The Candidates – A Quick Overview

There are many types of Air Pumps available today, but what is the best out there? The following air pumps have been reviewed with durability, function, and quiet operation in mind. There were many air pumps that did not make the cut. There were several that we cut from this list because we have field experience with these. The ones that I dropped are too loud, very expensive, or not very reliable. Below are the air pumps I would recommend.

Picture	Name	Features	Link
Editor’s Choice	Eheim Air Pump	Plug In Quiet	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Fluval Q Series	Plug In	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon
Budget Option	Tetra Whisper	Plug In	Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon
	Tetra Whisper AP Series	Plug In Large Tanks	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon
	Cobalt Rescue	Battery Backup	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Penn Plax Silent	Battery Powered	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon
	Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5	Battery Backup	Buy On Amazon

The 7 Best Aquarium Air Pumps Reviewed

Let’s dive deep and see why these made the list!

1. Eheim

Editor’s Choice!

Eheim Air Pump

The Quietest Air Pump

Powerful, quiet, and German engineered. Even comes with an air stone! The best aquarium air pump you can buy today!

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

The Eheim Air Pumps are without a doubt the quietest aquarium air pumps you can buy on the market today. They are powerful, quiet, and well-made. After all, Eheim is well known for producing excellent aquarium equipment for the hobby. The other great thing about this air pump is the diffuser that it comes with is pretty good. This eliminates the guesswork of having to buy an air stone. They also give you a check valve in the box. It is a well-engineered and well-thought-out package.

It is a plug-in-only air pump. This means if you want an air pump with backup abilities you will need need to shop for another unit. You could also buy a separate battery-powered air pump. The Eheim pump is on the pricey side among the plug-in air pumps on the list.

Pros

The quietest aquarium air pump on the list
Eheim brand name
Comes with a great diffuser and check valve

Cons

Expense
Plug-in option only

Why It Ranked #1

CFM output at depth: The Eheim maintains consistent airflow even at 18+ inches of water depth, where cheaper pumps start to strain and vibrate.
Noise floor: Measurably quieter than every other plug-in pump on this list. For bedroom tanks, that difference is not minor.
Diaphragm durability: German-engineered diaphragm design. Most no-name pumps fail at the diaphragm within 12 to 18 months. The Eheim goes years.
Adjustability: Output dial lets you dial back for small tanks without buying a separate control valve.
Airline compatibility: Standard 4mm tubing fit out of the box. No adapter hunting.

Buy It If / Skip It If

Buy it if:

You’re running multiple tanks off a single pump with a gang valve
Your tank is 24 inches deep or deeper (backpressure will kill cheap pumps)
The pump is in or near a bedroom where noise actually matters
You want a set-it-and-forget-it unit that won’t need replacing in 18 months

Skip it if:

You just need a little surface agitation in a 10-gallon shallow tank (the Tetra Whisper is perfectly fine for that)
Budget is the hard constraint and you’re not running sponge filters or hospital tanks
You need battery backup capability (this is plug-in only)

2. Fluval Q Series – Great Bang for the Buck

Best Value

Fluval Q Series

Best Value

Great value for a stellar brand name. The Fluval air pump delivers quality and value

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

The Fluval Q Series Air Pumps offer an entry-level price with the brand name we love in Fluval. Fluval, as they have always done, backs up their equipment with a generous 2-year warranty on this air pump model. For a brand name air pump, it has a get price point and should definitely be a consideration over cheaper Chinese-made units out there. It is a powerful unit with dual air outlets.

Due to the unit’s power, it does give off more noise than I would like. The sound level is more equal to lesser brand names. This is disappointing for a Fluval branded air pump. But given they are designed for larger tank capacities, it may be worth looking at if noise isn’t a concern for you. The price point for a brand name air pump is great.

Pros

Cheap for a brand name air pump
Fluval brand name
Powerful

Cons

Surprisingly loud given the brand name

3. Tetra Whisper – Great All-Around Unit

Budget Option

Tetra Whisper

Budget Option

A well priced and solid air pump. Unique shape gives it a cool factor

Buy On Petco

Buy On Amazon

The Tetra Whisper Air Pump is a staple in our industry. Tetra and their name brand Whisper have been what they are known for. The air pump is their major item in the Whisper lineup. The Tetra Whisper has a good balance of features. It is very cheap compared to the others on this list and it is quiet. It also doesn’t look that bad in your cabinet or hanging outside of your tank due to its unique shape. I guess you could say there is a bit of a cool feature with its not boxy look.

It is cheap and gets the job done. If you are looking for value, the Tetra Whisper is for you!

Pros

Cheap
Good balance of features

Cons

Not as quiet as the premium brand models

4. Tetra Whisper AP – For Large Tanks

Whisper AP Series

A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

The Tetra AP Series Air Pumps are pumps designed for larger tanks. This is Tetra’s best product in the Aquarium trade. It is super quiet for how powerful it is. It is not as quiet as the Ehiem air pump. But, it is close and operates at much larger aquarium capacities, handling up to 300 gallons in fact. Even with its large operating capacity, it still retails at a great price. To top it all off, Tetra backs this air pump with a limited lifetime guarantee. What isn’t there to like here?

The only grip I have with this air pump is it only comes with a single airline outlet for the AP 150 outlet. That is fixed with a proper Gang Valve.

Pros

Quiet for a large air pump
Value Priced
Limited lifetime guarantee

Cons

AP 150 only has one airline hose outlet

5. Cobalt Rescue – Great Unit With Back-up Capability

Cobalt Aquatics Rescue Air Pump

A DC Powered air pump with backup capability. Battery can operate for 24 hours after a power outage

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

The Cobalt Aquatics Rescue Air Pumps is our first pump on the list with backup capability. It comes with an internal battery that can power the air pump for 24 hours in the event of a power outage. Add to the fact that it can be plugged in, this unit afters a primary air pump with power outage backup. It has a good amount of power output and should suit a medium-sized fish tank.

Given that it is a unit that offers a battery backup function, it is on the pricier side. It has also been reported as loud compared to some of the more quiet models that we will be looking at later. If noise isn’t that much of a concern for you and you want a power backup option, this unit would be a great pick for you.

Pros

Backup capability with internal that lasts up to 24 hrs
Powerful out of the box – will suit most aquariums
Not as quiet as other models

Cons

Expensive
Louder than other models

6. Penn Plax Silent – A Quality Battery Powered Unit

Penn Plax Silent Air

A quality battery powered air pump. Gives 6-8 hours of run time off D batteries. A great way to protect your aquarium against power outages!

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

The Penn Plex Silient Air B 11 is the perfect battery-powered air pump. It has a good amount of power, being able to handle tanks up to 29 gallons. The unit is powered by 2 D batteries that should give you a life of about 6-8 hours. The auto-on feature is a nice bonus as you can plug this into your outlet and it will monitor if a power outage occurs. If an outage occurs, the battery-powered unit will turn on.

This is great piece of mind if you go out of town or away from your aquarium and an outage occurs. I feel that every aquarium owner should have one of these units. They will save your livestock one day.

It is more expensive than other battery powered air pumps on the market. Yet, the generic and cheaper alternatives out there are not very reliable. This is a piece of equipment you pull out when your pet’s lives are in danger. I’d rather spend more for something I know that is going to work. Going for a cheap unit that may or may not work when it is most needed can be disastrous. This unit is not built for quiet. In fact, it is the loudest air pump on this list by far. But, that’s not it’s function. It exists to save your pets lives in the event of a power outage. This is an air pump you should buy today as part of your emergency planning.

Pros

Battery Powered
Good power – works for up to 29 gallons
Auto On Feature

Cons

More expensive than other battery powered air pumps
Loud

7. Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5 – The Ultimate In Battery Powered Backup Units

Deep Blue Professional Hurricane

The Hurricane is the ultimate in battery backup air pump technology today. Protect your prized pets with its 12 Ah battery designed to run for days

Buy On Amazon

The Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5 Air Pump is the ultimate in battery backup aquarium air pumps.

Armed with a lead acid battery pack, this unit does not mess around with its battery backup capacity. It not only comes with a 4.0 Ah battery out of the box, it will also operate with 12 Ah. It is some great piece of mind to know you can work the unit with these larger batteries if needed. Note that if you use a 12 Ah battery you will not be able to house the battery in the unit. It is a powerful air pump that is designed for mid-size aquarium. With dual airline outlets, this unit can serve as your primary air pump as well as your backup. This has everything you want in a good air pump.

You get what you pay for with this unit. It is the most expensive air pump on the list and its larger size will produce more noise than the Eheim. If you have a mid-size tank and want to protect your investment out of the box, this is the unit to buy.

Pros

Battery backup that will run for days not hours!
Powerful
Dual airline outlets

Cons

Expensive
Louder than others on the list

What Cheap No-Name Air Pumps Miss

I’ve tested a lot of no-name air pumps over the years in store settings. Here’s what they consistently get wrong:

Vibration noise: The casing resonates on hard surfaces. You end up hearing the cabinet vibrate more than the pump itself. A neoprene mat helps, but it doesn’t solve the problem.
Diaphragm failure: Most cheap pumps use thinner diaphragm material. At 12 to 18 months you start getting reduced output, then failure. The sound changes first: the hum gets rougher before it stops.
Inadequate output at depth: A pump rated for a 40-gallon tank assumes a shallow tank. Drop the airstone to 20 inches of depth and that same pump is working at the edge of its capacity, running hotter and louder. Name-brand pumps spec for depth, not just volume.
Airline fitting tolerance: Generic fittings slip on standard 4mm tubing. Air leaks mean reduced output and a louder pump working harder to compensate.

What Are They?

Aquarium air pumps are a piece of equipment that delivers oxygen to your aquarium. Air pumps are external devices. They need to be placed outside of your aquarium, which means they are not waterproof. The air they generate is delivered through airline tubing. You can use accessories like air stones and bubble decorations.

Air stones can distribute oxygen while bubble decorations add interest to your aquarium. They work in both freshwater and saltwater tanks. For saltwater, they tend to be used with wood stones in applications such as Protein Skimmers. Since saltwater fish tanks need to have more current than freshwater fish tanks, a wave maker is a better fit for them.

The mechanics of an aquarium air pump are actually pretty simple (image source). You have a magnet, which is the tan-colored part above that turns on and of. As the magnet turns on and off, the lever on the bottom left of the photo moves up and down. This movement from the level pumps the rubber part in the middle called the diaphragm. The diaphragm is the part that takes in air and pushes it out to the airline tubing.

Do I Need It?

The main reason to get an aquarium air pump would be to provide oxygen in the tank. The most common application for an aquarium air pump is with fish that need rich oxygen. Discus (due to higher temperatures) or Goldfish (Due to their size) are two examples. They are also great to use if you want to connect them to a Sponge Filter or Air Pump Powered Protein Skimmers.

Pumps versus Wavemakers

I do get this question a lot. Why should I get an aquarium air pump over a wavemaker? Aquarium Wavemakers are great solutions for water movement and aeration. Yet, they are not for every aquarium setup. In freshwater tanks, there are certain setups where an air pump is more appropriate. For example, fish like African Cichlids need current. Other fish like Goldfish and Betta Fish, want calmer waters. With an aquarium air pump, you can have oxygen-rich water without having a current that is too strong for fish.

Types

There are three types of air pumps in general. They are:

Plug-in
Battery Powered
Battery Backup

Plug-In

This is going to be the more common air pump you come across. They plug into your outlet and run all day. Super simple and for the most part very reliable. They do not have an on and off switch and are meant to run 24-7. You can if you want to control their operation if you have a controllable power outlet.

Battery Powered

These air pumps operate off batteries. They are smaller air pumps and come in handy in the event of a power outage. The batteries tend to last a good while – usually around 8 hours. All battery-powered air pumps are unfortunately very loud. It’s simply not their main design to be quiet. They are designed to be used in a pinch. They are not designed to be your primary air pump in your aquarium. I would recommend that you have a battery-powered air pump on hand for emergencies. They will save your fish tank one day.

Battery Backup

This air pump is a combination of the two previous types of air pumps. They plug into your outlet and have a bay to place backup batteries in the unit. When the power goes out, the battery backup will kick in to keep your fish tank oxygenated. Lack of oxygen is one of the major reasons for a tank crash during a power outage. A high-end unit will likely save your aquarium one day from a power outage. They are priceless units.

Accessories – Getting the Essentials

So we have got through all the best aquarium air pumps available to buy today. Before you go get your air pump, let’s talk about all the essential accessories. You will want to look into these before setting everything up. They are:

Airline Tubing
Air Check Valve
Air Control Valve
Airstone/Bubblers
Airline Connector
Gang Valve

Airline Tubing

These connect your air pump to your air stone, bubble, or sponge filter The tubing transfers the airflow to your fish tank. They are very cheap to obtain and just about any you purchase will be very reliable. I would recommend Penn Plax’s Airline Tubing or Lee’s brand if shopping locally. All you do is measure and cut to length and you are good to go.

Airline Check Valve

An Airline Check Valve is an accessory that will prevent your airline tubes from siphoning water out of your aquarium. This can occur in the event of a power outage or equipment failure. They are a must for any air pump application.

Control Valve

An Air Control Valve is an accessory that allows you to have more precise control over your Air Pump’s output. They work by turning the valve to reduce or increase the airflow. For control valves, I prefer the ones made by Fluval.

Stones and Bubblers

An air stone or aquarium bubbler helps better distribute the oxygen into your aquarium. Without either, the airline connected to your air pump will generate big bubbles. These large bubbles can be loud and disruptive to your water line. In a freshwater fish tank, we prefer a smooth distribution of bubbles.

The finer the better as this provides more rich oxygen into the aquarium. Air stones are the standard that most of us in the hobby are used to and provide fine bubbles. Bubblers are more expensive than air stones and take it a step up producing a fine mist of bubbles. Air stones are cheap and get the job done, but if you want the best, go with a bubbler.

Airline Connectors

Airline Connectors are plastic pieces that allow you to split your airline in two or to connect your airline at 90-degree angles. They come in handy when you have a lot of airlines that you need to work with. Airline tubes can get bent reducing the output of your pump. The connectors will create a good directional change for you preventing the issue.

Gang Valve

A gang valve is an air pump accessory that will split your airline output into multiple lines. It also has the added benefit of being able to control the airflow of each line. It’s a combination of an air control valve and airline connectors. I would recommend Penn Plax’s Gang Valve if you are looking to get one.

How to Reduce the Noise From Your Unit

A common question I get from readers is how do I reduce the noise from my air pump. Of all the features and models I listed on this best of the post, the primary concern with an air pump is noise. The unfortunate truth is that all air pumps make a sound. There are two things we can work on here when it comes to noise:

Quality of sound
Reducing sound

The quality or the type of sound that your air pump produces is a major factor. A lower-quality air pump will rattle and bump while the higher-quality brands like Eheims will hum along. An air pump that hum along tends to not annoy people, even if they are louder than the ones that rattle.

Reducing the sound itself is the next thing we can work on. We can do the following to further reduce the noise produced by our air pump:

Raise the depth of our airstones
Moving the air pump to a different location
Fill any unused airline outlets

Raise the Depth of Your Stones

For smaller pumps, they will work harder the deeper your air stones are placed in the tank. You can solve this by moving the air stones up or considering purchasing a larger air pump that can operate at those depths without having to work hard.

Move It To A Different Location

Air pump location is a very important factor. If they are leaning on something, they can create more vibrations that can create more noise. Even the surface it sits on could create a problem. If the surface is an issue, you can consider moving it or placing the air pump on a Neoprene Mat.

If you have an Aquarium Cabinet with doors, placing the air pump inside the cabinet can muffle the noise. Keep in mind that many budget built aquarium cabinets are made of particle board. A particle board and an air pump are a bad combination. Consider a neoprene mat to migrate the noise if you are using such a cabinet. Oak cabinets fare a lot better at noise absorption.

Fill Any Unused Airline Outlets

Some of the air pumps we have featured in this post have multiple airline outlets. This is great for having the ability to use multiple airlines out of the box, but can also create a problem if you do not utilize them. Unused airline outlets will be noisy as the air pump will push air to these outlets even if unused. To reduce the noise, one way would be to plug in airline tubing to the unused outlet. It will generate less noise than if the outlet was left open.

FAQS

Can A Unit Be Too Strong For A Fish Tank?

Yes, an air pump can be too strong for a fish tank. If they are oversized, they can disrupt the water surface too much causing stress on your livestock. It’s best to either buy a smaller air pump or split the outlets so they can be spread out to other parts of the tank.

Should I Turn It Off At Night?

No. It’s not necessary to turn off your air pump at night. However, you can if you wish to disconnect it if your air pump is not connected to your filtration system, like a sponge filter

Do Fish Like Stones and Bubblers?

Yes, but not because they actually like the way it looks. Air stones distribute air more calmly than just your airline and the added oxygen benefits your fish. So in that way, fish do like air stones in their tank.

Do I Need One If I Have A Filter?

You typically will not need an air pump if you have a capable filter. However, there are certain fish where added oxygen would benefit them like Discus fish. Air pumps also become more important if a tank is overcrowded because oxygen starts to become scarce.

Conclusion

Final Word

The right air pump is invisible. You never think about it. The wrong one is the hum you fall asleep counting. Buy once, buy right, and pick a pump with a diaphragm designed to last. Your fish don’t care about the brand name. You will, at 2am.

We went through quiet a lot today. We learned about how air pumps work. What different models are available for purchase. We looked at accessories for our air pump. We then provided a few pro tips to make your pump as quiet as possible.

The fact of the matter is air pumps do generate noise. There is no way around that. But, we want to reduce that noise as much as possible. We want a quality air pump that produces a sound that will not annoy us. An air pump should produce a smooth sound versus a banging or clanging sound. If you have any questions below, please leave them in the comments. Thanks for reading.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

March 9, 2020

Best Aquarium Return Pumps (2026 Reviews 🏅) – AC vs DC Pumps

Following up our Best Aquarium Wavemakers Review post, it would be natural for me to write about the best aquarium return pumps next. Return pumps are an essential component for many fish tanks. They are used in all-in-one tanks, water changing stations, and in aquariums sumps or refugium sumps. It’s the heart of the aquarium and thus the very piece of equipment in your setup that you do not want to fail. You can argue that next to an Aquarium Heater, a failed return pump can be disastrous not only for your livestock, but to your home in the event of a flood or leak.

The goal with this post is not to point you to the cheapest aquarium return pumps or the most expensive ones. I’m going to point you to the highest quality and reliable pumps available today on the market. This is a component of your system that you should not skim on. You want an aquarium return pump to last forever, be quiet, and to be relevantly maintenance free.

What Is An Aquarium Return Pump?

The first question you may be asking is why do I have to use a return pump versus say a wavemaker or powerhead. The main difference here is that return pumps are designed to pump water uphill and are made to handle head pressure. Wavemakers are meant to pump water within the aquarium and a powerhead is not suited to handle the head pressure that a return pump is design to take.

Mark’s Expert Take

The return pump is the heart of a sump system, and most buyers undersize it because they go by the rated GPH without accounting for head pressure loss. That’s a mistake I saw constantly when I was speccing builds for clients. The rule is simple: size for 5x to 10x your display tank volume in turnover after you account for head height and plumbing losses. A pump rated at 1,500 GPH may only deliver 900 GPH at four feet of head. Run the numbers before you buy. DC pumps are worth the premium for controllability – you can dial them in precisely rather than restricting an oversized AC pump with a gate valve and adding wear. I’ve specced return pumps for dozens of client builds over 25 years, and the Sicce Syncra SDC is the pump I reach for on every premium reef system.

– Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

AC vs. DC Return Pumps

Return pump manufacturers have been really pushing DC return pumps a lot recently. It makes a lot of sense given the control features that DC pumps offer. Nearly all DC return pumps are controllable with precision and have feed modes to instantly shut off the water pump when feeding your fish, plants, or corals. Some return pump come with smart phone apps that makes monitoring and setup a breeze. They are also a lot more energy efficient.

However, they come with some big advantages. Reliability is the number one concern I would have with a return pump. You see, a large number of DC return pumps are made in China and the same manufacturer often makes several re-branded pumps (e.g. – Jabeos). Sometimes the quality control simply isn’t there. Other times, the warranties are very short because the manufacturers are well aware of the issues – especially if they operate in saltwater aquariums. A DC controller with have 3 failure points that you will need to deal with:

The controller
The power supply
The motor

The motor will be the most reliable part of your DC return pump and the controller will be the least reliable. Often times when I see a DC return pump failure, it will usually be the controller.

AC pumps are a tried and true in this industry. The benchmark of this engineering comes from Italy. Italian engineers had developed the Askoll Motor Block.

Askolls motor blocks are known for their extreme reliability in the aquarium trade with many motor blocks easily lasting over 10 years. The manufactures will also back up their models with long-term warranties, typically at least 3 years or more! The motor block is the only failure point to be concerned with on an AC aquarium return pump. As you can see, they are very worry free!

AC pumps also come with some big disadvantages over DC pumps. Several are not adjustable aside from the flow rate reducer, which means the pump will always run at full power and the decreased flow rate results in head pressure (e.g. – more wear and tear). Nearly all will not have a feed feature and the energy consumption is a lot more. Several AC pumps are also loud, which is a big consideration if you are working with a setup in a study or bedroom.

Internal Versus External

An internal return pump can only be run submerged in water.

An external return pump is made to operate solely outside of the water. They can handle pushing water over long distances due to their designs. Nearly any return meant to work externally only is going to be extremely reliable. Not having the pump inside the water, especially not in saltwater increases the reliability of a return pump immensely. Many of these pumps will operate for years without maintenance. They will also offer the higher flow rate. They are commercial sized external water pumps that can handle flow rates for large displays, ponds, and fish stores.

The main drawbacks with external return pumps are that they are large, loud, and expensive. An external return pump is best operated for people who have basement sumps or fish rooms where water needs to travel long distances.

What Cheap AC Return Pumps Miss

Budget AC pumps look attractive on paper – lower upfront cost, simple operation – but there are real tradeoffs that matter over time:

No flow control – Most cheap AC pumps run at full power always. Restricting flow with a gate valve increases back pressure and wears the impeller faster than running a properly sized pump at partial capacity.
Heat transfer into the water column – Submersible AC pumps with lower efficiency ratings dump more heat into the water. On a reef tank, this fights your chiller and adds to operating costs.
Failure rate – Generic AC pumps often use cheaper Chinese motor components that don’t match the longevity of Askoll or Eheim-based designs. A $40 savings over a Sicce becomes a false economy if the pump fails in year two.
No soft-start protection – Quality DC pumps and premium AC designs ramp up gently on startup. Generic pumps slam to full power, which stresses impellers and seals from the first power cycle.

Our Criteria

Here is exactly what we looked at when rating these pumps:

Warranty – A quality brand is backed with a long warranty. 1 year or less on the warranty is suspect in our mind
Gallons Per Hour (GPH) – The GPH output of these pumps are very important and even more so if they operate will under longer distances
Noise – A funny thing about DC pumps is they can be noiser than AC pumps because of the DC “whine”
Price – While great pumps can be expensive, they aren’t for everyone. I want to find good pumps for every budget.

Why #1 Ranked: What Actually Separates the Top Return Pumps

Actual flow at real head height – Rated GPH means nothing. A pump’s curve at 3, 4, and 5 feet of head is the only number that matters for your build. The Sicce SDC publishes this data clearly.
DC vs. AC – DC wins for reef tanks where controllability lets you dial in flow without valve restriction. AC wins for reliability-first freshwater sumps where you don’t need fine-tuned control.
Noise – DC pumps can produce an electronic whine that AC Askoll-motor pumps don’t. The Jabeo DCP Sine Wave addresses this better than most budget DC options.
Heat output into water – Submersible return pumps transfer heat into the water column. This is a real concern in reef tanks where temperature stability matters. External pumps eliminate this problem entirely.
Warranty and reliability record – A 1-year warranty on a pump that’s supposed to be the heart of your system is a red flag. Sicce’s 5-year warranty tells you exactly what they think of their own product’s longevity.

Top of List

Below is the list of recommended aquarium return pumps. They range between AC & DC pumps and external and submersible. All will have uses in your aquarium.

In a hurry? I recommend Sicce Syncra SDC Pumps!

Mark’s #1 Pick

Sicce Syncra SDC

The Sicce SDC closes the argument between DC control and AC reliability. It’s built in Italy, backed by a 5-year warranty, and I’ve put it in multiple premium reef builds without a single failure. Every other DC pump I’ve used or recommended over the years came with a reliability asterisk. This one doesn’t.

Picture	Name	Power Type	Link
Editor’s Choice!	Sicce Syncra SDC	DC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Sicce Syncra Aquarium Pump	AC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Budget Option	Jabeo DCP Sine Wave Return Pump	DC	Buy On Amazon
	Current USA EFlux Return Pump	DC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Fluval SP	AC	Buy On Amazon
	Ecotech Vectra	DC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Eheim Universal Pump	AC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Eheim CompactON	AC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Iwaki Water Pumps	AC	Buy On Amazon
	Innovative Marine Mighty Jet	DC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Panworld External Pump	AC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	ReeFlo Dart Pumps	AC	Buy On Amazon
	Reef Octopus VarioS	DC	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

The Top Units (2023 Reviews)

1. Sicce Syndra SDC – Finally a DC Unit with Sicce Reliability!

Editor’s Choice

Syncra SDC

Editor’s Choice

The Syncra is a perfect combination of DC control with AC reliability. Backed by a 5 year warranty and the legendary Sicce brand name

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

I have gotten comments from readers and folks I know that I am an anti DC pump hobbyist. There is one DC return pump that completely closes the door on the anti DC pump view I have. It is the Sicce Syncra SDC return pump. Without a doubt, this is the best DC pump you can purchase hands down on the market. Nothing comes close to it. It is a version of the legendary Syncra AC pumps now in DC form.

This is a well engineered DC pump that is built in Italy. Sicce continues to stick with its high quality manufacturing and R&D process that has earned its reputation for long lasting pumps. This is the only DC pump I have seen that is backed by a 5 year warranty. There is only one other that I know that exceeds this warranty – and those pumps are nearly 3 times the price of the SDC!

Not only do you go the great reliability of Sicce, but the controller is excellent. It runs of a mobile app. It runs off wifi, so this is a completely mobile app unlike the Current USA bluetooth accessories that require you to have a device nearby. You can run the app on your phone and it will alert you if the pump goes offline. For a piece of equipment as critical as a return pump, that is big time piece of mind.It has the same closed pump feature that the EcoTech pumps have as well.

This is the DC pump to buy if you want a DC pump. Unfortunately, it comes with a high price tag. It should last you a lifetime like all Sicce pumps – something that nearly all DC pump manufacturers these days cannot say with confidence. The Sicce Syncra SDC is now my pump of choice for all premium builds. See Full Review.

Pros

Sicce name and quality – made in Italy not in China!
5 year warranty on a DC Pump!
Fully controllable via mobile app

Cons

Expensive

2. Sicce Syndra – Quiet & Reliable Unit That Lasts A Lifetime

Best Value

Sicce Syncra

Best Value

An Italian made, high quality pump. AC powered for maximum reliability. These are built to last a lifetime

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The Sicce Syndra aquarium return pump is the first pump I recommend to clients when building an aquarium. Their final selection will vary depending on their budget and their desire for control on their return pump, but the Sicce is also the benchmark I start with. I always start with a Sicce pump because they have the best engineering, best reliability, and best warranties in the industry.

I didn’t even mention how quiet they are. They are insanely quiet. Many DC pumps are louder than these in comparison. It’s all due to their 35+ years of Italian engineering and care in manufacturing. The pump is equipped with a synchronous motor and advanced rotor which cuts down on the noise significantly.

Sicce tops off all these features with a gold standard best in industry 5 year warranty. No maker unless you spending way more in the DC category (looking at you Abyzz) offers a warranty like this. There is absolute confidence from Sicce that this pump will serve you for a lifetime. I have seen many of these pumps in tanks run smoothly for years.

Sicce’s reliable and engineer are well earned and as a result, these pumps are on the pricey side. However, knowing that the return pump is the heart of an aquarium system I see no problem in spending a little more for a pump that will offer me a lifetime of worry free operation.

Pros

Quiet (virtually dead silent!)
Industry best 5 year warranty
Can be run internally or externally

Cons

Expensive
Suctions instead of rubber feet
Needs a gate valve for true precision adjustments

3. Jabeo DCP Sine Wave – Affordable DC Power

Budget Option

Jebeo DCP

Budget Option

Easily the best Jabeo DC pump ever released. Great budget price and quiet operation

Buy On Amazon

The Jabeo DCP Sine Wave return pump is the first Jabeo return pump that I am comfortable putting under a recommended list. Everyone is always asking me if Jabeos are worth buying and in the past I was 100% against them because of reliability issues. This particular model however, has my interest because of the Sine Wave technology that makes them crazy quiet. Sine Wave removes that annoying humming noise so common with your average DC pump.

It’s frankly annoying to the ear to hear it throughout the day. I know some clients who hate that DC hum so much that they end up going with a Sicce AC pump instead because they can’t stand it! The Sine Wave tech on this pump puts out about 25% less noise then the previous Jabeo generation (the DCS).

This pump features a controller than can adjust the pump from 30% to 100% power and comes with a feed mode that will shut off the pump for 10 minutes. Perfect for coral feeding or hand feeding shy inhabitants in your tank. This pump is also compatible with Jabeo’s battery backup (the IceCap battery backup will also work) solution giving you hours of operation in the event of a power outage.

The DCP Sine Wave is also the one variant of Jabeo that you will not see clones for. There are a lot and I mean A LOT of Jabeo clones and even American sellers who rebrand Jabeo pumps like Simplicity, but the Sine Wave tech is exclusive to the Jabeo brand so if you are going to use a Chinese made DC pump that is not a major brand, this is the one to look at.

Now let’s talk about issues with this pump. In my own personal experience, the controller is the Achilles heal of this unit. It is fairly common to have a unit shipped with a faulty controller and it will generally fail right away. I’m not sure why they fail so much, but make absolutely certain that you purchase this pump from a seller who can ship you a replacement fast and with no added cost if you have to return it (like Amazon).

Once you have a working controller, these units last a decent amount of time. They haven’t been out for too long, but I do know of several installs with these going two years now and still working like new. Given the price of these units, that’s pretty good if you are working with a budget.

Pros

Cheap!
Sine Wave tech = more silent than many DC Pumps
Lots of output options available

Cons

Controller reliability

4. Current USA EFlux – Affordable DC Power and Reliability

Current USA eFlux DC Pump

Use Coupon Code ASD15 At Checkout!

A budget friendly offering from Current USA. Integrates well with all Current USA products with its unique controller

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Current USA starts off our list with a very competent Eflux DC Pump offering. This water pump is well made with a controller that can adjust the flow rate from 1% to 100% using a dial. It has the advantage of hooking integrating with the Eflux Wavemakers and Loop LEDs for a complete package. It is a compact for the power it brings and I really like the rubber feet that come with it so you don’t have to worry about placing a silicon mat underneath it.

Current USA’s customer service has also been in my experience excellent and one of the reasons I go with them for many system components.

The main thing I don’t like about this DC return pump is the lack of a true feed mode. There isn’t even an option to do a feed mode out of the box. You get a feed mode when it’s linked to the Loop Led manifold or the Bluetooth accessory, but the feed mode is a 30% dial down mode not complete shut off. This makes it disappointing if you want a button for a feed mode, but since I tend to hook systems up with switch boards or a controller it is a non issue for me.

I would say this is the weakest offering of the Loop trio though, with the EFlux wavemakers being the strongest product offer of theirs.

Pros

Works with Current USA Loop System
Adjustable by dial so it can go from 1% to 100%
Current USA customer service

Cons

Does not have a true feed mode
Dial can also be a disadvantage

5. Fluval Sea SP – Askoll Motor + Warranty = Ultimate Reliability

Fluval Sea SP

Designed with the reliable Askoll motor, these Italian made AC return pumps are a great pickup

Buy On Amazon

The Fluval Sea SP series return pumps are a throw back to the reliable Askoll motor design. Italian engineered and backed by a benchmark 3 year warranty, the Fluval Sea offeres reliable, powerful, and quiet operation. Yes, that is right, these Fluval Sea have been reported to be quieter than old generation Jabeo DC pumps. They can also be run internally or externally. It is a great all around pump.

My main nitpick with this water pump is there is no flow rate regulator out of the box. In order to tune down this pump, you are required to use a gate valve in your plumbing. While a gate valve is recommended in any sump design, this can be an added expense and time cost for some who is looking to save on design costs. These are all power hungry and large pumps so don’t expect energy savings from them.

Pros

Askoll Motor & Italian engineering
Lots of GPH sizes for an AC pump
Runs internal or external

Cons

Water pump does not have a flow rate regulator out of the box
Large compared to DC pumps
High wattage consumption

6. EcoTech Vectra – High End DC Unit With Smart Phone App Features

EcoTech Marine Vectra

The Vectra offers a lot of premium features such as auto calibration and closed mode. It is one of the more advanced pumps available today

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

The EcoTech Vectra is loaded with lots of smart features like auto calibration which will adjust itself automatically to the overflow drain of your tank. It is compatible with the EcoTech battery backup system, which can power the water pump for a couple of days. It can work with the ReefLink app giving you full access to your operations on your computer.

My favorite offering is the closed mode. I am a big fan of doing closed loop systems – especially for smaller tanks where you can eliminate a wavemaker and have more room for your corals and fish. The closed loop options offer wavemaking features like gyre and reef crest random modes giving you the random flow rate you need for a reef tank.

As with all EcoTech products, this is an expensive DC return pump. I’m not too upset about the price though. It’s the warranty that really bugs me. EcoTech only backs this up with a 1 year warranty, which is a big shame for a return pump that is supposed to be the heart of the aquarium.

Pros

Smart features like auto calibrate
Compatible with EcoTech Battery Backup System
Close Loop Modes

Cons

Only a 1 year warranty
Expensive

7. Eheim Universal Hobby – An Oldie but Goodie

Eheim Hobby Pump

An old, but very reliable design. There are many of these pumps still in service that have run for over 15 years!

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The Eheim Hobby Pump is an extremely reliable aquarium return pump that has been around for many years in the hobby. I know a number of hobbyists who use this water pump with many still running after over 15 years of usage. The reliability of these pumps are virtually unmatched. They only come in smaller gallon per hour outputs, but for the what they are capable of, they are great additions to a system.

Unfortunately, as of this post, they are becoming more and more difficult to find as the manufacturer is phasing them out for a more mainstream and cheaper pump. If you can find these pumps for sale, they are worth every penny for their reliability.

Pros

Eheim name
Extremely reliable
Works submersed in water or externally

Cons

Difficult to obtain
Expensive for an AC pump
Not designed for hard PVC installs
Needs a gate valve to fully control flow rate

8. Eheim CompactON – New Generation Units

Eheim compactON

This Eheim pump is the successor to the Compact + series. It is a budget friendly version of the Eheim hobby pumps

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The Eheim CompactON aquarium return pumps are the newest generation of pumps from Eheim. These pumps are the successor of Eheim’s popular Compact+ series pumps. What you get here is a compact fit that fits in tight sumps and all in one aquariums with the reliability of the the Eheim name. The ceramic bearing construction makes for a silent water pump. There is an easy to access adjustment dial near the outlet to adjust the flow rate. It comes with accessories so you can either do a hard or soft plumbing install.

Like many Eheim products, these pumps are on the pricer side of AC return pumps, but you are getting a more reliable water pump spending more.

Pros

Eheim Name
Has accessories for soft and hard plumbing installs
Small footprint

Cons

Expensive
Hard to find

9. Iwaki External – Japanese Quality with Long-Term Reliability

Iwaki External Pump

A japanese made motor and external pump makes these ironclad reliable. Excellent for basement sumps and ponds

Buy On Amazon

The Iwaki Magdrive Pumps are the first external aquarium pump on this list. Iwaki is a very well known brand in the aquarium and pond industry due to their reliability and performance. The main difference between these aquariums and internal return pumps is the head pressure they can handle. They can work across longer distances making them perfect for basement sump and fish room installs.

External pumps come with a number of drawbacks. They are big and loud and can only be installed externally. They are not ideal for below the cabinet installs due to this and really are best for separate room installs. They are expensive, but one of these will last a lifetime and well worth the money if you have a specialized install.

Pros

High quality build and motor
Handles a lot of headpressure (great for basement sumps/fishrooms)

Cons

Loud and big
Can only be used externally
Expensive

10. MightyJet DC – DC Power for All In One Tanks

Great For All In One Tanks

Mighty Jet Pump

A compact, yet powerful DC return pump. Its small size make them a perfect upgrade for all in one tanks

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The MightyJet DC Pump by Innovative is the perfect aquarium return pump to upgrade to if you are looking for a DC powered pump in your all in one aquarium. They come in either 326 GPH or 538 GPH sizes, with both models being small enough to fit in the return chamber of your all in one.

It has many of the features you would expect with a DC pump drawing little power, having a feed mode, and being fully adjustable. The 326 GPH model uses only 15 watts at 100% so in a backup situation it can be dialed down and can operate for a long-term with a UPS or battery backup system.

Because this is a name brand DC pump, they are expensive given the output. There is also no sound dampening features like silicone or rubber feet like you get with the Current USA and other name brand DC offerings. It is a great water pump that works for all in one tanks and should also be a consideration for those if you running nano reef tanks with sumps.

Pros

Small enough to fit in all in one aquarium chambers
Good GPH output given size
Fully adjustable

Cons

Expensive compared to similar AC powered pumps
No sound dampening feet

11. Panworld External – The Choice for Basement Sumps

Pan World Pumps

Budget priced yet realiable external pumps

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

Panworld External Pumps offer a very reliable return pump for a reason price. I see many basement sumps and fish rooms run these pumps for years. They are pretty common place in the reefing community with their great price point and reliability.

Panworld’s price point comes from their 26 years of pump manufacturing experience, using Japanese pump technology and having manufacturing based in Taiwan.

As with any external pump, they are best for applications where you are moving water to an outside location like a basement or a fishroom. They are too big and bulky to be placed underneath cabinets and they are loud. They are amazing to use in water changing stations and various other external applications.

Pros

Cheap for an external return pump
Sturdy and reliable

Cons

Big and bulky
Loud
Only works externally

12. ReeFlo – Lots of Power for External Applications

ReeFlo Pumps

An external that is designed to be quiet. They have models that can push over 5,000 gallons per hour!

Buy On Amazon

Did I mention that external return pumps are loud? Well, the Reeflo External Return Pumps kick that concern to the curb. Don’t believe me? Just check out this field test video below and hear it yourself:

Pretty quiet isn’t it? Not only are they quiet, but they are very powerful. The entry level dart models produce a flow rate of 2600 GPH and their gold models can easily push out 5500+ GPH!. These are the pumps for you monster keepers or those with big fish rooms with lots of water to move.

These pumps are built in the USA and small business owned. The motors are fully rebuild-able meaning that you are can ensure that these pumps will operate for a lifetime. All the pumps come with multiple year warranties for worry free operation and purchase.

They are expensive external pumps, but if I was looking for an external water pump for my fish room or basement and silence is a huge priority – this would be the pump I would be looking at.

Pros

Very powerful flow rate (high GPH)
More silent than other external return pumps
Rebuild-able motors

Cons

Expensive
Big and bulky

13. Reef Octopus VarioS – Quality Marine Brand DC Unit

Reef Octopus VarioS

A very comprehensive and competent DC pump made by Reef Octopus

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The Reef Octopus VarioS return pump offers a fully controllable DC pump. This pump is controller ready, being able to connect with controllers like the Neptune Apex and is meant for aquarists looking for high end equipment.

The controller is pretty comprehensive on it’s own offering a 15 or 16 minute feed mode and several speed settings.

The reef octopus is an expensive return pump, but those looking for a controller ready water pump won’t be disappointed by its performance. It is considered one of the best values for high end name brand DC pumps in the hobby. Reef octopus has a great brand name in our hobby.

Pros

Aquarium controller ready
Very comprehensive controller

Cons

Expensive
Only a 2 year warranty

Our Recommendations

If you have been reading our other articles, you may be aware of our Sicce bias, but there are options available for every type of build from the list presented above. Below are category recommendations:

Best Return Pump for All In One Tanks – Sicce Synda (AC) or MightyJet (DC)
Best AC Pump – Sicce Synda
Best DC Pump – Jabeo DCP Sine Wave (DC – Budget) or Sicce SDC (DC -Premium)
Best External Pump – Panworld (Budget) or Reeflo (Premium)

Buy vs. Skip: Straight Talk on the Top Picks

Sicce Syncra SDC (DC) – Buy if: you have a sump-based reef system and want real controllability without compromising on reliability. This is the only DC pump with a 5-year warranty. Skip if you’re building a simple freshwater sump where a reliable AC pump does the same job for half the price.

Sicce Syncra AC – Buy if: reliability is your absolute priority and you don’t need flow control. These run for 10-plus years without drama. Skip if you need a feed mode or fine-tuned flow adjustment.

Jabeo DCP Sine Wave – Buy if: you want DC controllability on a tight budget and you’re buying from a seller with a fast return policy. Skip if you’re running a reef where a controller failure mid-vacation could wipe out livestock.

EcoTech Vectra – Buy if: you’re already deep in the EcoTech ecosystem and want Apex integration with advanced flow modes. Skip if you’re put off by a 1-year warranty on a $400-plus pump.

How Many GPH Should My Unit Be?

When selecting a return pump, you need to know how many gallons per hour you need and how much water is going to be pushed distance wise. As the distance increases, there is loss on the flow called headloss. Here is a link to a headloss calculator so you can do a best estimate. Oversize your return pump slightly and use the pump’s control features or a gate value to reduce the flow rate to get it to the proper gallons per hour that you need. You may also decided to run additional equipment using a PVC manifold so oversizing would have it’s advantages if you go that route.

Closing Thoughts

In my early years building sump systems, sizing the return pump was the part that kept me up at night. Too small and you starve the display. Too big and you spend the whole setup fighting backpressure with a half-closed gate valve. DC pumps have really taken out the guess work with their ability to adjust power with the controller and not worry about added stress to the pump over time by having an over-sized and highly restricted return pump.

AC pumps are still extremely valuable with their reliability and performance. If you take your time research the output that you need and get an appropriate gate valve you are set for worry free successor with an AC pump.

If you have questions about sizing your return pump or picking the right type for your build, drop them in the comments. I’ve been doing this for 25 years and I’m happy to help you get it right.

Your display tank is only as stable as your return pump. It’s not the place to save $40. The equipment that runs 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, with no days off, is worth buying right the first time.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

March 2, 2020

Goldfish Tank – Your Guide To Successful Goldfish Care
After 25 years of watching goldfish keepers make the same mistakes, goldfish are not easy. They produce more waste than fish three times their price and need more space than most people realize. A single goldfish needs 20 gallons minimum and heavy filtration. Most goldfish deaths come from undersized tanks and inadequate filtration.

A goldfish tank is not a set-it-and-forget-it project. It is a commitment to managing waste.

A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

The Goldfish is one of the most popular fish in our aquarium hobby. It may even have been the first fish you had when you first got introduced to aquariums. You may have even come across this article thinking about setting up a Goldfish tank for the first time or for a loved one. They really are amazing fish that is also easily misunderstood. Because they are first-time fish, a number of us enter into Goldfish care with little knowledge on what is needed to have them thrive.

I’m sharing this article with you today so you can learn all the essentials plus more. I want you to be very successful in caring for your pet Goldfish. As quick disclosure, this blog post will contain affiliate links which I may get a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase. Now let’s get started!
Key Takeaways
- Goldfish are not beginner fish. They require larger tanks and are quite messy
- They are coldwater fish and are best with other goldfish
- Live plants with goldfish is possible if you know what plants to select
- There are slim-bodied and fancy goldfish. Slim bodied are more athletic and can live in ponds
History of Goldfish

One crazy fact about Goldfish is that they were first kept for their meat. Yes, that’s right. Goldfish used to be what was for dinner in China, their area of origin. Goldfish are the domesticated version of wild carp from East Asia. Their original colors were silver-grey and they were known as “chi” in the East. It was one of the most common staples of meat in China at one time.

As carp continued to be bred for meat, a strange thing happened. Genetic mutations would occur with the carp and these “mutants” would end up with flashy red, yellow, and orange colors. If these fish were in the wild, they would get quickly eaten by predators since they stood out so much. These flashy-looking new fish caught the eye of Buddhist monks in the 9th century. They began to keep these colorful fish in their ponds. The Goldfish was born at this time as an ornamental pet.

The breeding of the fancy Goldfish varieties did not begin until the 1600s starting in Ming Dynasty China. They were highly regarded for their scales and it was tradition for a man to give his wife a goldfish on their first anniversary to symbolize the prosperous years to come. Goldfish were imported to North America around the 1850s. This video by Aquatography provides a deep look into the origins of goldfish.

Care – The Major Factors We Need To Know

Goldfish on the surface seem very hardy and easy to take care of. For the most part, they are. However, we want to have the best environment we can place them in. I want to go beyond the basic beginner setup and set you up for long-term success. Goldfish care is broken down into several parts:
- Housing
- Filtration
- Temperature
- Decor
- Substrate
- Diet
- Tank Mates
We have a video from our YouTube Channel that you can follow along as well. Be sure to check both as our blog goes into more detail. If you enjoy our channel, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

Aquarium Size

I’m going to say it upfront to my readers. Goldfish do not belong in a Goldfish bowl. You may see Goldfish bowls everywhere, but bowls are not big enough for the long-term. You may purchase them as young new fish for your fish tank, but they will get large. In fact, the Common Goldfish can grow up to 10 inches in size and Fancy Goldfish can grow up to 8 inches in length. Some have grown as large as cats in rivers! That is a lot of Goldfish for a tank! Goldfish also have a lot of mass, especially the Fancy types. Given their adult sizes, it’s no wonder they were originally kept in ponds.

When sizing an aquarium for a Fancy Goldfish, you will want to start out with a tank size of 20 gallons for a single Fancy. After that, it’s roughly 10 gallons per every other Fancy Goldfish. This means a 40 gallon tank can hold 3 adult-sized Fancy Goldfish. That doesn’t sound like a lot of fish, but remember they get pretty big. We need to ensure an aquarium is big enough not only for them to have room to swim around, but also so you are not a slave to water changes.

For a common variety of Goldfish like a Comet, you will want to consider an aquarium size of 30 gallons and target at least 4 feet in length. Each subsequent comet you add would need an additional 12 gallons so for a 55 gallon tank, we are talking about 3 full-size Comets. Again, not a lot of fish. Keep in mind that Comets can grow up to 12 inches in length!

For a Fancy Goldfish setup, I would recommend a larger aquarium like a 55-gallon tank or 60 gallon breeder. These 4-foot-long tanks offer everything you need to get started. You can go cheaper if you wait for a dollar-per-gallon sale at your local chain pet store to pick these aquariums up.

Filtration

Goldfish in general are very hard on the bioload of an aquarium. They are large, messy, eat constantly throughout the day, and stir up your Aquarium Substrate all day. Maintaining a Goldfish tank requires a hefty filter. Keeping in mind that Goldfish are an entry-level fish for Aquarists, we are going to focus on more budget-friendly options. Our best option is a good quality aquarium Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear

The Hagen Aquaclear is a quality-made, readily available power filter that has stood the test of time. It is very easy to customize each section of the filter stages to suit your needs. It will provide years of reliable operation. Make sure you size up one model that is made for a larger aquarium. A goldfish aquarium produce a lot of waste, so get try aiming for oversized filtration

Parameters (Water Quality)

The main thing with Goldfish tanks once you have the tank cycled is consistently monitoring your Nitrate and pH levels. Ammonia is a concern when you first cycle the tank or when you add new fish. Goldfish, due to their messiness and consistent desire to eat will produce a lot of waste. A full goldfish tank will end up running higher nitrate levels as a result. You want to test your nitrate levels regularly with a proper Aquarium Test Kit. Take care of your goldfish by ensuring your nitrates don’t go above 40. This will ensure you have the best water quality possible.

The pH levels of your Goldfish aquarium are also critical. Goldfish are like an aquarium at 7-8 pH at all times. This is different from most tropical fish and planted aquarium environments which prefer a pH at an acidic level lower than 7. Make sure your tap water has the proper pH and adjust accordingly if your tap is below 7. Always use a water conditioner like Sea Chem Prime to treat your water. A water conditioner will remove harmful chemicals out of your tap water like ammonia and chlorine and make it aquarium safe.

Temperature

Goldfish are cold water fish. Anything over 75 degrees for a Goldfish is going to stress out your fish. Goldfish actually have a large range of temperatures that they can live in. The range is from 50-75 degrees F, with the general ideal range being 65-72 degrees. This means that if you keep your home at room temperature, you should be fine without having an Aquarium Heater in your tank.

There are two things we have to keep in mind with Goldfish tanks. If you live in a hotter climate, you need to control the temperature in your aquarium in the summer. This require an Aquarium Chiller or getting your specific room where your tank is to a cooler temperature with a mobile AC. If you live in a cold climate with very cold winters, you may want to consider having a heater handy when the temperatures get below freezing in your area.

Decorations

When we think about Decorations for a Goldfish tank, we have to consider both space and safety. Common Goldfish are fast and enjoy swimming around. Fancy Goldfish are slow, clumsy, and have delicate fins. Both types of Goldfish need their space to swim. Consider having an open aquascape when building out a Goldfish tank.

When it comes to the decor itself, we want to consider rocks, and artificial plants without sharp edges. We take the same consideration as we do with Betta Fish where we avoid sharp edges as the long fins of our Fancy Goldfish can get caught and damaged.

A good brand to look into is marina naturals when looking at silk artificial plants. These plants will not damage the fins of your Fancy Goldfish. You will need to keep in mind that goldfish like to dig out plants. It may be a good ideal to anchor these down with rocks.

Substrate

Goldfish love to stir the substrate in search of food. They have big mouths, so substrates that are medium or larger in size can pose a problem for them as they can accidentally shallow the pebbles. We want to make sure that goldfish have a substrate that they can easily stir and scavenge around. Knowing this, the best goldfish tank substrate is going to be a sandy one.

A sandy grain size substrate like the one sold by Caribsea is what we are looking for. We want to work with a thin layer of sand. This is to counteract the big pitfalls of a sandy substrate. Sand can compact and create anaerobic pockets, which is very dangerous for your fish. A thin layer that barely covers the bottom of your aquarium and no more than 1/2 an inch is what we are shooting for. This sandy substrate will get stirred all day by your Goldfish and mimics their natural environment. This substrate is also pH neutral – a major factor because Goldfish need a pH of 7.2 – 7.6.

Diet

Food for Goldfish is an interesting topic because the industry is loaded with a lot of food targeted at beginners. These foods are cheap, easy to feed, clean, and last a long time. That is great for us humans, but they are not that great for our Goldfish.

The most basic food offered to Goldfish is flakes. Most flake food offered on the market is full of fillers, which long-term is unhealthy for your Goldfish and creates a lot of waste. We want to upgrade the diet of our Goldfish to something better. At a minimum, we want to think about quality pellet food.

A good brand for goldfish pellet is Northfin. They sell a premium Goldfish pellet formula specially designed for them. It is free from fillers and includes a healthy dose of Omega 3s to really help bring out the color in your Goldfish. I would recommend presoaking your pellets in aquarium water before you feed them to your Goldfish. This will allow for the pellets to soften and expand a bit so they don’t expand in your Goldfish’s gut.

Going further, we can look into freeze-dried food. I would recommend Hikari’s Bio-Pure Krill. Kill has the ability to boost carotene levels in your Goldfish. This helps produce better coloration in your Goldfish and can prevent them from turning black. This formula is multi-vitamin enriched so you do not have to supplement with a vitamin supplement like Vita-Boost.

The next step up would be frozen food. These you would likely need to purchase from your local pet or fish store. For frozen food, look for brine shrimp, blood worms, or daphnia. Good brands to look at would be Hikari or Cobalt Aquatics.

Lastly, we go with live foods. For live foods, I want to look at live plants. Goldfish in general, are known for eating a number of aquarium plants. While this is bad if you are looking for a planted goldfish tank (it is possible to have plants with goldfish – more on this later), we can use this to our advantage when supplementing our Goldfish’s diet. One plant that Goldfish love to eat that is fast-growing and readily available in our trade is Duckweed.

If you are part of an Aquarium society or know anyone with a Planted Tank, there is a good chance they either have Duckweed or have grown it in the past. Duckweed is also grown in ponds for Koi and Goldfish. Goldfish love to gobble this plant up. It is very cheap to obtain and a very fast grower. It is very important to have food readily available in your aquarium for a Goldfish. We have to keep in mind that Goldfish do not have true stomachs.

Because of this, they are always eating and hungry. You do need to feed goldfish regularly, but a natural food like Duckweed can really come in handy because you can make it available in your tank, it’s a natural filter, and it is eaten away by your Goldfish throughout the day.

Aquarium Mates

Tank mates for Goldfish is quite tricky. They have several factors working against potential Goldfish tank mates. They are a coldwater fish, so that eliminates all tropical freshwater fish right off the bat. Fancy Goldfish also are slow and have large fins, which is attractive to nip for a more active fish. Goldfish can also be bullies themselves. Their large size, mouths, and mass can present problems to smaller fish. For this reason, the best recommendation is to have a Goldfish-only tank.

That being said, there are some tank mates that would work. These tank mates would be:
- Coldwater snails like Nitrite and Apple Snails
- Brittle Nose Plecos
- Dojo Loaches
Snails are a great addition because they will work on algae in the tank and for the most part Goldfish should leave them alone. If the Goldfish do decide to harass them, they are large enough to handle themselves and give you enough time to reconsider their compatibility. Every Goldfish is different after all.

When it comes to Plecos, only the Bristle Nose Pleco is compatible with a goldfish. Common plecos are a bad idea as they require driftwood and can get very large.

Dojo Loaches (pictured above) are likely the best candidate when it comes to other fish in a goldfish tank. They get rather long at 5 inches and require at least a 30-gallon tank, but they can tolerate the cooler waters of a goldfish tank. They are very peaceful, very active, full of personality, and excellent scavengers.

It’s always best to introduce these new fish and inverts AFTER our goldfish have been added. We want to make sure our goldfish are established since they tend to be the ones that are bullied not the other way around! You will also want to consider a larger tank if you want to have other tank mates. A 55 gallon or 75 gallon fish tank would be good options.

Live Plants

Plants for Goldfish like tank mates are tricky. You have a number of things working against you when it comes to them. Because Goldfish like cold water that is 7-8 in pH, this eliminates the majority of tropical aquarium plants available for sale. Goldfish also love to gobble up plants. They will eat just about any plant you stick in the tank. Another factor is that Goldfish stir up the substrate, which means that if you have any rooted plants that need to be established in your substrate, it is likely that your Goldfish will dig them out.

That seems like there are a lot of things going against you when it comes to aquarium plants, but we also need to think about the benefits as well. Plants will really help with your water change efforts. They will thrive in the high nutrient environment that goldfish will create with the waste they produce. If you don’t want to be a slave to water changes, live plants is your ticket to relief. In large quantities, they can act as natural filtration for your tank.

So let’s talk about what plants work best. We want to make sure these plants tolerate higher pH, will do well with high nutrients, won’t mind the cooler temperatures, and won’t get eaten by our Goldfish. These are:
- Java Fern
- Anubias and Dwarf Anubias
- Cypts
- Amazon Swords
- Vallisneria
All of the plants above are Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do if you want aquarium plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System.

Types

There are a lot of different Goldfish types to house in your aquarium. All goldfish are long-lived and will provide years of joy for you. I’m going to break down a small list of Goldfish for you. I’m going to split it into two types:
- Slim Bodied Goldfish
- Fancy Goldfish
Slim Bodied

Slim bodied Goldfish are one of the hardiest fish you can purchase in the hobby. They is placed in home aquariums or outdoor in ponds. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures. They are fast swimmers, very active, and aggressive eaters. They cannot be kept with Fancy Goldfish as they will out-compete them in an aquarium with how fast they swim around and eat. Below are a few types of slim bodied Goldfish:
- Common Goldfish
- Comet Goldfish
- Shubunkin Goldfish
- Wakin Goldfish
The common Goldfish is also known as your “feeder” goldfish at pet stores. They are also the Goldfish you used to get at fairs as prizes. This Goldfish most resembles their original ancestors, the carp. They can grow as long as a foot if given a large enough aquarium or if housed in a pond. They are very hardy, very cheap, and long-lived fish.

The Comet Goldfish is a variant of the common Goldfish that has a long fancy tail. They share the same hardy characteristics of the common, but with more flash with their tails. They will also get a foot long and are fast swimmers. They a relatively cheap fish to purchase.

The Shubunkin Goldfish is a multicolored goldfish. These you will see placed in ponds as they get long and command a higher price tag than the former 2 mentioned. Some varieties of Shubunkin will grow fancy tails and fins.

Fancy

Fancy Goldfish are selectively bred fish that have been created over the years. They are not found in the wild and exhibit multiple unique characteristics depending on the type. They are fish with a lot of mass on them and are clumsy in nature. They have long elegant fins and are slow swimmers. Because of the slower swimming speed, they do not mix well with slim-bodied Goldfish as they will be unable to compete with them for food.

These egg shaped fish are valued for their looks. They tend to be more delicate than slim bodied Goldfish, but there are several varieties that are hardy and appropriate for beginners. A few examples of Fancy Goldfish types are:
- Fantail Goldfish
- Black Moor Goldfish
- Ryukin Goldfish
- Lionhead Goldfish
- Rachu Goldfish
- Oranda Goldfish
- Pearlscale Goldfish
The Fantail, Black Moor, and Ryukin Goldfish are great fancy varieties that are appropriate for beginners. The Lionhead and Telescope Goldfish are varieties that would be considered more delicate and better suited for experienced Goldfish keepers. The main difference between the first three and their others is what stands out with the two other fish. The Lionheads are so modified that their dorsal fin is missing. Their fleshy-like head and clumsy nature make them sensitive to injury. For the Telescope, it’s the eyes. The eyes give them limited vision and make them delicate. It’s another Fancy that is not for beginners.

I go into more detail on fancies in this blog post, but I wanted to help you identify what is a hardy Fancy Goldfish and which ones aren’t. The less modified features of the fish, the more likely it will be better suited for a beginner. Of all the Fancies listed here, my personal favorite is the Ryukin. It is bold, elegant, and hardy. It is a wonderful addition to a Fancy Goldfish aquarium.

Putting It Together

We have discussed a lot about Goldfish Tank care, food, housing, and types of Goldfish. It’s time to put everything we have learned today and make a comprehensive setup. In this setup, we are going to set up a Goldfish tank with live plants. You can opt not to use plants and save yourself on upgrading your light.
- Tank – 55 gallon for 60-gallon breeder
- Lighting – Add another light strip to host low-light plants
- Filter – Hagen Aquaclear or Fluval Canister Filter
- Heater – None
- Plants – Java Fern and Anubias
- Rocks – Margo Garden Products 3-5″ Rain Forest Large Rocks (available on Amazon)
- Substrate – Caribsea Super Naturals
- Fancy Goldfish – 2 of your choice (after the tank has been cycled)
- Water Conditioner (To treat tap water) – SeaChem Prime
To save on money, we can purchase a 40 gallon breeder to 55 gallon tank during Petco’s dollar-per-gallon sale. All the other components fit very well for this setup and for what we want to house. If you opt for a 55 gallon tank, you can house 3-5 fancy goldfish. You will want to anchor your plants to your rocks so they don’t get stirred up by your Goldfish.

If you opt for a dollar-per-gallon sale tank, you are free to select the light of your choice. I would recommend an led light like the Serene Pro LED if you are selecting a light for a planted aquarium setup.

Additional Resources

There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There is one book I recommend when it comes to Goldfish care.

Fancy Goldfish: Complete Guide To Care And Collecting

Over 100 Photos!

Fancy Goldfish: A Complete Guide

An in-depth book on the world of fancy goldfish. Highly recommended and full of timeless knowledge

Buy On Amazon

This Book Written by Dr. Johnson goes over diseases, prevention, health, breeding, and proper fish selection. It contains over 100 color photos of Fancy Goldfish. The information contained in this book is a full deep dive into the world of Fancy Goldfish. You will become an expert in knowledge after you read this book. It does have some outdated information given it was published back in 2001, but the majority of the information in this book I would consider evergreen.

I would highly recommend it to anyone who really wants to keep the more exotic Fancy Goldfish or considering expanding into larger display tanks.

FAQs

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

The minimum size tank that a goldfish needs is 20 gallons. For each additional goldfish after the initial one, you will need at least 10 gallons. The best starter size to house multiple goldfish would be a 55 gallon tank.

How Long Can They Live In A 1 Gallon Aquarium?

A goldfish will not thrive and may not live very long in a 1-gallon tank. These tanks are too small for them. Goldfish do not have a labyrinth organ like a betta fish. This is how betta fish can live in small containers. Even then, it’s not ideal to place a fish in such a small tank. Consider placing your goldfish in an appropriately sized tank for its long-term health.

Can They Live Without A Filter Or Air Pump

Yes, goldfish can live without a filter or an air pump. However, it’s risky to do so. Without a filter, a goldfish tank may experience ammonia spikes.

Closing Thoughts

Goldfish go way beyond the fish in the bowl that money of us have seen in the past. There are many varieties of Goldfish with some of the exotic Fancy types selling for hundreds of dollars. They are large fish with personality and unique aesthetics. They do require larger tanks long-term, but they are long-live fish easily living over 10 years in more aquariums. I hope I showed you what Goldfish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
February 29, 2020

Betta Fish Care Guide: What They Actually Need to Thrive

Most Betta Fish owners kill their fish slowly without realizing it. Tiny bowls, no heater, zero filtration. I have kept bettas for over 25 years and the difference between a Betta Fish surviving and actually thriving is night and day. This is what real Betta Fish care looks like.

If your Betta Fish is not flaring, building bubble nests, and actively exploring, something is wrong with the setup.

A healthy Betta Fish lives 3 to 5 years. That means years of weekly water changes, a heated and filtered tank, and a varied diet. This is not a disposable pet.

A betta in a filtered, heated 5-gallon tank acts like a completely different animal than one sitting in a cup at the pet store. The difference is not subtle. It is dramatic.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner

Betta fish are one of the most beginner-friendly fish in the hobby, but they are not zero-maintenance. They need a heated, filtered tank – not a bowl. A 5-gallon minimum with a gentle filter and heater is the real starting point.

Hard Rule

Betta fish need a heater and a filter – not a bowl, not a vase. The bowl myth kills more bettas than any disease. A 5-gallon heated, filtered tank is the minimum for a healthy, long-lived betta.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Betta Fish What They Actually Need to Thrive
Key Takeaways
A Quick Overview
Classification
All About Betta Fish Care
The International Congress (Competitions)
The Major Factors We Need To Know
Live Plants
Different Types
Putting It Together – Creating An Amazing Aquarium
Tank Water Quality
Additional Resources (Books To Read)
Where To Buy
FAQS
Is the Betta Fish Right for You?
How the Betta Fish Compares to Similar Species
Closing Thoughts
The Reality of Keeping Betta Fish
What It Is Actually Like Living With Betta Fish

The Betta Fish for some of us fish keepers was our first experience with a pet fish. It was our introduction to this wonderful world of aquarium keeping. Betta Fish after all has a lot going for them that makes them great pets. They have a great personality and come in a variety of colors. They can exist in smaller tanks and is relatively hardy as long as the environment is properly cared for.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Betta Fish What They Actually Need to Thrive

Want a centerpiece fish for a nano tank? Get a betta. Want a peaceful community schooler? Get ember tetras instead. Want low maintenance? Get neither. Both need real care.

The most common mistake I see with bettas is the bowl. It is still the number one killer of betta fish in this hobby. A betta in an unheated, unfiltered bowl is not living. It is slowly dying. The pet store cup is transport, not housing. The second mistake is assuming all bettas can have tank mates. Every betta has a different temperament. Some tolerate a community setup with small, peaceful fish. Others attack anything that moves, including snails. You cannot predict this before you try it, so always have a backup plan. Finally, people underestimate how much bettas respond to enrichment. A betta in a bare 5 gallon tank with nothing to explore will sit at the bottom and do nothing. Add plants, a cave, something to investigate, and you see a completely different fish. They are curious, interactive animals that need stimulation.

The Reality of Keeping Betta Fish

They are not low-maintenance pets. Bettas need a heater, a filter, and weekly water changes just like any other tropical fish. The myth that they thrive in small, unfiltered containers has killed millions of these fish. A proper betta setup starts at 5 gallons with a gentle filter and a heater set to 78 degrees.

Aggression varies wildly between individuals. Some bettas tolerate tank mates without issue. Others attack anything that moves, including snails. There is no way to predict this before you try it. Always have a backup plan if your betta turns out to be a loner.

Fin rot is the number one killer. Poor water quality causes fin rot faster in bettas than in almost any other fish. Those long, flowing fins are bacteria magnets in dirty water. Weekly 25% water changes are not optional. They are the single most important thing you do for this fish.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Putting a betta in an unheated bowl and calling it a day. Bettas are tropical fish that need 76 to 82 degrees. Below 74, their immune system shuts down and they stop eating. A $15 heater is the difference between a vibrant fish and a slow death.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

After 25 years of keeping bettas, the single best upgrade you can make is a quality heater in a 5-gallon filtered tank. Everything else matters less than getting the basics right first.

Key Takeaways

Betta fish are the best beginner fish to start your aquarium journey with
A 5-gallon aquarium is a minimum needed for a single adult Beta fish
Betta fish require heaters as they prefer warmer waters
Betta fish are aggressive to other Bettas but is bullied by many tropical fish
There are a vast variety of Betta fish varieties available with many of the rarer variants being better acquired via online stores

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Betta splendens
Common Names	Betta Fish, Siamese Fighting Fish
Family	Gourami
Origin	Thailand
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Beginner
Activity	Slow to Moderate
Lifespan	2 – 5 years
Temperament	Peaceful (Aggressive to own kind)
Tank Level	Middle to top
Minimum Tank Size	5 gallon
Temperature Range	76°-81°F
Water Hardness	5 to 20 DH
pH Levels	6.5. 8.0 (for most varieties)
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy to breed
Compatibility	Community tank (with properly selected species)
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Betta Fish
Scientific Name	Betta splendens
Order	Anabantiformes
Family	Osphronemidae
Genus	Betta
Species	B. Splendens

All About Betta Fish Care

The Betta Fish’s scientific name is Betta splendens. They are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. They originate from Asia and were kept in the past for their fighting nature. They were originally brought into aquariums by locals who caught on rice paddies. They were first imported to the US in 1927. These days, Bettas are primarily kept for their appearance. They have been selectively bred over the years into many different colors and tail types. They are now known as the designer fish in the freshwater hobby.

In the wild, Betta splendens originate from Southeast Asia. They are native to areas that are visited by frequent flooding that will also go through periods of intense droughts afterward. As a result, Betta evolved to become a labyrinth fish. A labyrinth is a fish that has the ability to take in oxygen from the air as well as take oxygen from its grills. Because of this adaption, Bettas have the ability to live outside of water for short periods of time and can breathe the air around them provided they can stay moist. This is the reason why you will see Bettas in small containers at the pet store or at home (though I would not recommend this — more on this as we through this post).

Here is a short video on Betta for a quick intro from my YouTube Channel. If you like it, please subscribe for more great videos!

Betta is pronounced Bet-tah. It is very common for newcomers to pronounce it as Bay-tah. They received their name from the ancient Asian “Bettah” warrior clan. They were discovered in Thailand. Their Thai name is Iken Bettah, which is translated as “biting fish.” They are also known as Siamese fighting fish. This name was taken from the word Siam, with Siam being the former name of Thailand. They became very popular in the mid-1800s for their fighting. The fighting sport became so popular that the King of Thailand ended up regulating the sport and taxing it. The sports competitions were actually measured on the fish’s bravery versus the damage they inflicted on their opponent, however.

Male and Female Differences

Males and females are distinctly different when it comes to Betta Fish. The males are more colorful with larger fins. Females have shorter fins and are duller in color. Male betta fish also will have a more torpedo-shaped and larger body. Female betta fish also have an Ovipositor on the undersize of their body. These are tiny tubes that release eggs.

The International Congress (Competitions)

Betta Fish breeding has been very popular over the years with breeders raising some of the most beautiful fish you will ever see in the hobby. In fact, there are competitions for the show Bettas (pronounced Bet-uh) hosted by the International Betta Congress (IBC). Below is a video by DocAquaTV showing an IBC competition in full swing. There is a huge community when it comes to Betta Fish, and seeing these unique-looking and high-quality Betta is a real treat.

I would highly encourage anyone who is passionate about keeping these fish to look into a scientific-based community like the International Betta Congress and maybe even think about joining to deep dive into the Betta world. They offer a lot of benefits like their membership forum and magazine. They have been around since 1967 and really take efforts to bring education and care to Bettas all over the world.

The Major Factors We Need To Know

Now that we know a little bit about the Betta itself and the scientific-based community that supports them let’s talk caring for your betta. We are going to split care for a Betta Fish into the following elements:

Housing
Filtration
Heating
Decor
Diet
Tank Mates

Aquarium (Housing)

I’m going to be very upfront and clear to my readers here with this statement. The best aquarium to start with for a Betta is a 5-gallon tank. That’s correct, 5 gallons. You may be a little taken aback by this statement as you may have visited your pet store and seen many of the “Betta tanks” available for sale. Many of them are badly undersized.

I encourage anyone who is keeping a Betta Fish long-term to invest in a proper five Gallon tank like the the ones offered by Marineland and Fluval. Betta fish live best in a good-sized tank and you want the best for your pet. Invest in the proper tank so your fish can thrive.

We also want to limit the number of male bettas in our aquariums. We should only have 1 male betta in our aquarium unless we are using tank dividers to keep our male bettas separated. Keeping more than 1 male is going to require more than 5 gallons. A 20-gallon tank is best for housing multiple male bettas – 3 to 4 are best for a 20-gallon tank using a 1 betta for every 5 gallons approach.

Aquarium Filtration

Contrary to what you may see in the chain pet stores, Betta fish are not best served in a fish bowl. We want their tanks filtered. This will make it easier to maintain as a fish tank without a filter is going to need a water change every 2 to 3 days. This can get very old fast! We want to make tank maintenance easy to do rather than a major chore. Having proper filtration that houses a lot of beneficial bacteria in your tank will provide a proper nitrogen cycle for your fish tank and for your Betta. This will cut down the number of times you will need to change the water int he tank every month and give your Betta a better environment to grow and thrive. I would recommend a Power Filter if you are not using an aquarium kit or all-in-one tank. The best power filter for a small tank like this is going to be a Penn Plex Power Filter or AquaClear as these companies design power filters at this size and both are adjustable.

When using a power filter, you will still need to protect your Betta. Bettas are known for having delicate fins and being very curious. It’s pretty common for them to get sucked into a filter accidentally or have one of their fins damaged. You will want to dampen the intake of your betta fish filter by putting a sponge over it and adjusting the flow to make it calmer and suitable for the Betta. Bettas prefer calmer waters, and some power filters on the market are designed for a higher gallon-per-hour applications. Adjust it down for your Betta and let them adjust to the flow. Another alternative is to use a low-flow canister like an Aquael Multikani.

Tap Water

Because Siamese fighting fish have labyrinth fish, it is a common misconception to put them in any type of water. While we can use tap water, we want to make sure we have the right type of tap water. Tap water needs to be chlorinated with a proper water conditioner produce like Seachem Prime. Water conditioners like Seachem Prime will remove chlorine, harmful chemicals, ammonia, and nitrite from your tap.

Never stick a Betta in straight tap water. Always make sure to dechlorinate tap water to keep your fish safe.

Tank Heating (Water Temperature)

It may not seem like it because you see many of these Betta for sale at pet stores in bowls or small tanks, but they are actually tropical fish and betta fish need water water. They are most comfortable with water temperatures at 75 to 82 degrees with 78 degrees being your target temperature. I would recommend choosing a quality heater from our Best Aquarium Heaters Reviews post. Eheim heaters are one of the most reliable heaters on the market and are worth a look. Neo Therm Heaters are great as well. They have a smaller footprint that works better with the smaller size of the Betta Fish tanks and will fit in all-in-one tank chambers. Both heaters are accurate up to 1 degree of water temperature, the best in our industry.

I would also highly recommend that you get a Digital Thermometer as a backup for your heater’s internal thermometer. If you have the budget, you can invest in a proper Aquarium Heater Controller for a more foolproof water temperature regulation system.

Tank Decorations

There are two parts of the Decor for Betta’s tank: plants and hardscape (rocks and branches). For plants, specifically artificial plants (I’ll touch on live plants later in the post), we need to be very selective about what we put in our Betta Fish tank.

Silk plants like the Marina Naturals Plant shown above are what we want to purchase for our Bettas. Traditional plastic plants you will see at the pet store are not safe for a Betta Fish. This is because many will contain sharp edges and do not give way if the Betta runs into them. This leads to the delicate fins of the Betta Fish getting torn up which in turn causes injury and possible infection. We want to prevent as much harm to the delicate fins of our Betta, so let’s stay away from the hard plastic plants if we are going to shop for artificial plants.

For hardscaping like rocks, we again want to watch out for sharp edges. Hardscaping for Betta Fish needs to be soft or round. You should be able to run your fingers through the hardscape and not get your fingers caught. If your fingers get caught, you have rough edges that will be dangerous to your Betta. Either consider sanding down the hardscape or picking another one.

Another factor to consider with Betta decorations is to watch out for rocks and other hardscaping with lots of small holes. Betta Fish have a tendency to get caught or stuck in holes. I would recommend that you purchase smooth round rocks or rocks with larger holes that your Betta will not get stuck in.

The image above is a good example of a hardscape that is suitable for a Betta Fish. A Coconut shell decoration you can find at a pet store is smooth and the hole is large enough to fit the Betta without it getting caught or stuck inside. Lastly, the water surface should have space for your Betta to build bubble nests.

Diet (Feed Them Right!)

A Betta Fish is a fish with lots of vibrant colors. That is why it’s vital that your betta fish eat quality food to be happy and achieve brighter colors. The fish food hierarchy in today’s hobby is frozen food, fried dried, pellet, then flake food. We want to be selective in what we feed our Betta fish so I will help with the breakdown. Let’s feed your Betta the best food available.

Frozen food is at the top of our list because you can get some of the highest-quality blends and mixes. Unfortunately, frozen foods are going to be the one food you will have a hard time finding online. Even if you do find it, the shipping costs is expensive to the point where it is not worth it. Do yourself and your local store a favor and pick these up locally. I would recommend frozen blood worms, black worms, and daphnia. All is found at your local pet stores.

Next would be freeze-dried. For freeze-dried, I would recommend either freeze-dried Bloodworms or Blackworms. The great thing with freeze-dried foods is because they are dehydrated foods, they will soak up vitamin supplements. Consider supplementing your food with a product like VitaChem to boost their immune system and to keep betta fish healthy. Mixing VitaChem plus Blackworms is a great nutritional mix to feed your betta fish.

One thing to note in this blog post is that I am not recommending brine shrimp as a food source. You may be wondering why I don’t when many fish stores and bloggers are happy to recommend it. I do not recommend brine shrimp because there are way better food sources you can feed your fish. It’s great if you are in pinch, the store doesn’t have much else, or if you have a picky fish. Brine shrimp are just low on nutritional value. We can do better, so why not?

Pellet food would be the next food I would touch on. There is really only one pellet food I would recommend for a Betta. That would be NorthFin’s Betta Bits Food.

Pellet fish should be presoaked before giving to your Betta. This will prevent the pellets from expanding in your Betta’s stomach and causing issues like bloat or constipation. You can also soak pellet food with vitamins.

Flake food I will avoid. Many types of flake food in our industry are simply not up to snuff for our fish and it’s hard to soak them in vitamins. If you want to go with flake food to feed your betta fish, I would consider flake food with probiotics. One such flake food that comes to mind would be Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Fish Color Formula. It is flake food loaded with probiotics and one of the mainstream flake foods around that I would be okay with recommending.

The main benefit of live food is the live beneficial bacterial cultures that you are feeding your Betta. These are priceless nutrients that your betta fish need and truly can extend their lifespan and quality of life. However, there are major cons with live food.

The biggest issue is disease and poor quality live food. You really need to do your due diligence if you are going to feed live foods to your Betta fish. It may even be better to grow them yourself if you really want or find a very trusted retailer who sells them. For live foods, I would highly recommend blackworms. Earthworms are also another natural source that you can pull from your garden and feed to your Betta if you are willing to cut them into bits. Microworms would be another live food to look at. All three of these is cultured at home if you are willing to do so. I included a video from AquaStudent below explaining how to keep blackworms. It’s probably more relevant to Keeping Cichlids given how much you can grow, but I wanted to provide it anyway for your reference. If you take care of live food, you can have success with them. It’s just not something I would not consider for a beginner.

Tank Mates

I’ll start this section with a very honest statement. Not every Betta is meant for a community tank. There is also the size of the tank you need to consider as tank mates in a Betta Fish aquarium should not be considered unless you have an aquarium 10 gallons or larger in size. To maintain the lowest levels of aggression possible with these mixed setups, a planted tank setup is going to be key to keeping the fighting down.

I’ll provide a list below and then explain after. I’m going to start from safest to riskiest. The best tank mates for a Betta Fish are community fish and inverts like:

Snails
Medium-sized Shrimp
Corydoras catfish
Plecos
Schooling Fish

Snails are going to be our best test tank mate to start with. Snails are low risk to add to an aquarium and we can take time to observe our Betta’s reaction to them. If your Betta is nipping at the antennas of the nails, this is a likely sign that your particular Betta is not going to accept tank mates readily.

If snails are not harassed, then we can attempt the next set of possible tank mates. These would be Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp like Cherry, Amano, or Ghost shrimp. If your Betta is not attacking snails, there is a good chance they will leave pet shrimp alone. The great thing with shrimp is they are colorful and is used to contrast your Betta colors. Be careful of overpopulation though as shrimp can breed rapidly. There is a chance they could eat the shrimp. A bamboo shrimp is the safest shrimp you can pair with a betta.

The next set of teammates would be bottom-dwelling fish like Corydoras and Pleco. Because we are working with fish who inhabit a different section of our tank area, it is likely that both sets of species will leave each other alone.

The final and riskiest set of tank mates are going to be school fish like Tetras and Rasboras. The activity level of these fish may actually stress out the more calm Betta. We have to observe their interactions and watch for warning signs. It is very possible to have a Betta that lives happily in a tank with schooling fish.

Bettas are naturally solo fish though. To add tank mates into an aquarium with a Betta is asking the fish to adapt outside of its natural tendencies. Take your time and be patient. Be ready to make changes with your tank mates if things do not work out well for you.

Another thing I forgot to mention in this section is DO NOT place two males in the same tank. Males fighting is where the Bettas got their Siamese Fighting fish came from. Two males will fight to the death in an aquarium. Avoid placing two males in the same aquarium at all costs. There is only one exception – which I cover in this post and is reserved for seasoned aquarists.

Male Bettas will also show aggression to females. It is best if you want multiple Bettas in your aquarium to go female only. Females are not as colorful as males, but a group of 5 females will complement the colors of your tank as they have unique colors and fins in their own right. A group of female Bettas will require a larger tank and there are really no guarantees of their compatibility as they reach maturity.

Lastly, avoid fish like tiger barbs that enjoy nipping at long fish.

Live Plants

Live plants are a wonderful addition to your Betta to simulate natural habitat. Not only do they add natural hiding places for your Betta, but they are also natural filtration in your aquarium. I recommend live plants for most freshwater setups because they are great for improving water quality. Some plants are also known for being natural water conditioners as they can remove harmful chemicals in your water.

I would highly recommend Low Light Aquarium Plants for your aquarium. If you do decide to go with live plants, get a Planted Tank LED fixture that can grow plants. I am recommending low-light plants because they are easy to grow and keep. However, many lights that come with starter aquariums will not have the proper light to grow even low-light aquarium plants.

For tanks these small, there is a Finnex FugeRay model that is available that will adequately cover a standard 5-gallon tank. Another option is a Fluval Plant Bluetooth Nano. The Fluval Nano is a perfect light for desktop aquariums.

With one of these lights, you are set to grow just about any low-light aquarium plant you can acquire. For low-light plants here are several you can obtain that would work well in a Betta tank:

Different Types

There is actually a large variety of Betta Fish available for sale in our hobby. For most of the Bettas, you will see that the pet store will not have a specific breed or type listed. There are actually large numbers of available varieties with Bettas. Many have exotic colors and fins. I’m going to talk about several here to show you the vast variety of Bettas available today. If you are shopping online for exotic-style Betta Fish, I would highly recommend that you purchase from a place that offers What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) fish for purchase and from a place that offers you a multiple-day guarantee.

Veil Tail

The Veil Tail Betta is the most common Betta you will find at a pet store. They are often labeled as Siamese Fighting Fish at chain pet stores. It is very likely if you are reading this article after you have purchased a Betta yourself that you have a Veil Tail. They are the most widely available Betta in the hobby. After all, this was the original domestic Betta that was brought over to the US. They are also one of the easiest Betta Fish to breed. These Bettas are known for their easy-going nature and are one of the better candidates for a community aquarium.

Half Moon

The Half Moon Betta is a Betta that is bred and raised in captivity. It gets its name its tail that spreads 180 degrees to form the half-moon. It is a very striking Betta to have. It is notorious for being a very challenging Betta to breed. They are becoming one of the easier-to-find exotic Betta types nowadays due to their popularity. It was first bred in the 1980s. Half Moon Bettas are also known for their aggressiveness. They are best suited to be solo in an aquarium. Many of the fancier Bettas are only available through local breeders, specialty fish stores, or online.

Rose Tail

A Rose Tail is a variation of the Half Moon. The ends of their tails are more ruffled creating a striking appearance. As the Half Moon, they are also very difficult to breed. It requires a genetic mutation to occur to get the look and as a result, they tend not to be as hardy as other Betta fish species. They are an amazing-looking Betta

Plakats

Plakats are a short-finned version of the traditional Betta you find in stores. Plakats are the original Betta and very close to the ones you will find in the wild. They are known as the ancestors of all Bettas in the trade today. They are more actively swimming fish over the other fancier varieties and will do better in larger tanks as a result. It is actually possible to find a Halfmoon Plakat from a breeder. Given the fact the Plakat Betta is closer to a wild Betta, they are hardier, less prone to injury, and more energetic than fancier Bettas.

Purchasing a fancy Plakat fish is a good balance if you want a fancy Betta, but would prefer a hardier and more active sub-type. The picture above is a Halfmoon Plakat. Another popular variety of Plakat are Koi Bettas.

Elephant Ear

These Bettas get their names from their pectoral fins that look like the ear of an elephant. These are one of the more exotic and striking Betta you will find. These varieties can also be found in the wild (though with less bold colors than their captive-bred varieties). They are aggressive Betta and best suited as a sole specimen. They slow down a lot later in life, so a calm tank alone is the best for them.

Crowntail

This unique-looking variety has web fins that resemble a crown. It is one of the new varieties among breeders debuting in 1997. This Betta variety produces some of the most exotic colors and mixes available in the trade. Because of its breeding though, this also makes it one of the more difficult Betta to find and take care of. They are more delicate than the other Bettas on the list. It requires exceptionally higher water quality for its fins to stay healthy.

Putting It Together – Creating An Amazing Aquarium

We spent quite a bit of time talking about Bettas, their care requirements, food, and types of Bettas. It’s time to put it all together and built a set up for you. I’m going to use a Fluval Spec V for this build. It is an all-in-one tank with 5 gallons as its volume. The tank really solves a lot of issues for us, namely the filtration and the lighting. The lighting that comes with the unit can grow Low Light Aquarium Plants and the aquarium size is ideal for our Betta. You can use any Aquarium Substrate you want since both Java Fern and Java Moss are water column feeders so either will do fine without an active substrate.

Tank – Fluval Spec V
Lighting – Fluval Spec V light is perfect :). No changes are needed!
Aquarium Filter – Fluval Spec V stock filtration
Heater – Cobalt NeoTherm
Hardscape – Coconut Shell or Fluval Driftwood
Plants – Java Fern and/or Java Moss (Micro Swords and Crypts work as well)
Substrate – Activ Betta Gems Live Gravel
A single Male Betta of your choice – Once the tank is cycled!

We can either use a simple aquascape or get fancy with some Driftwood, to ensure it has no sharp edges by sanding down any rough spots. If we go with driftwood, we can attach the moss and ferns to the hardscape with either thread or superglue. Below is a video by Fishaholic showing how to attach Java Fern to driftwood.

Tank Water Quality

Now that you have your Betta tank, you may have questions about water quality. Bettas in general are hardy fish, with fancy sub-types begin to be more sensitive. We want to keep our water quality in good condition when taking care of a Betta. I would recommend doing water changes weekly about 15-20%. You can reduce the water changes if your water quality is high. I always say water changes based on your water parameters. Get used to testing your water conditions every week using a high-quality aquarium water test kit and always use a water conditioner on your tap water.

Some tanks can go bi-monthly or monthly depending on how well the tank is filtered, which your aquarium test kit will hope you monitor when you should make a water change. Check for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Ammonia levels and nitrite levels should be at 0 and keep your nitrates below 25.

For pH, Bettas are pretty tolerant of neutral to soft water. They are best with a neutral pH of 7. They will do fine in a slightly acidic pH if accumulated to it, but as close to 7 as possible is ideal.

Maintenance Checklist

Here is a quick maintenance checklist guideline that will help keep your Betta fish happy and to have a long and healthy life.

Daily	Weekly	Monthly
Check water temperature (76 – 81 F)	Change 25-50% water in the tank	Replace filter media or filter cartridge (mechanical and chemical)
Observe fish and check for signs of ill health	Siphon out uneaten food and water	Wash media in aquarium water (if reusable)
Check equipment to see if it is working (heaters, filtration system, pumps)	Test water parameters	Clean rocks, decor, and/or driftwood
Feed your fish	Check plant health and prune overgrowth
Check water levels to see if topping off is needed	Clean off algae from glass

Additional Resources (Books To Read)

There are some incredible books available about Bettas that go beyond the scope of this blog post. I would encourage you to look into these books and purchase them if you are serious about taking your Betta Fish keeping to another level.

The Betta Bible is the source when it comes to knowledge about Betta Keeping. It is an expensive book, but well worth it. It is loaded with detailed and expert-level information. It has information about the genetics of Bettas, breeding, and the history of the Bettas in our hobby. It is loaded with over 150 pictures of various types of Bettas and the style of writing is very down-to-earth.

My Choice

The Betta Bible

The Best Book About Keeping Bettas!

With over 300 pages and written by Ecologist Dr Martin Brammah. This offers one of the best deep dives into the world of Betta care!

Buy On Amazon

Written by Dr. Brammah, this book has been known in the hobby as the book of all books. It’s a must-buy in my opinion. The kindle version is a steal at the price if you can get that. It is everything you would want to know and more about Bettas jammed packed into 300 pages.

The Simple Guide

If the Betta Bible is too much to start with, the Betta Fish book by Walter James is a good alternative. Weighing in at only 124 pages, it is a more digestible deep dive into Betta Fishkeeping.

Where To Buy

Betta fish is purchased at local fish stores, chain pet stores, and online fish stores. You will get the best selection from an online store as they will have many varieties that other stores won’t carry. You can go wrong either way. Bettas will ship in good condition due to their hardiness and ability to breathe air outside of the water.

WYSIWYG Available!

Betta Fish

Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

Buy Premium Varieties

Buy On Petco Online

What It Is Actually Like Living With Betta Fish

Your Betta Fish will learn to recognize you. It will swim to the front of the tank when you approach, flare at its own reflection, and patrol every inch of its territory like it owns the place. Because in its mind, it does.

Feeding time is the highlight of the day. Bettas are aggressive eaters that will snatch food from the surface the moment it hits the water. They prefer variety. Pellets one day, frozen bloodworms the next, an occasional freeze-dried daphnia treat.

Bubble nests appear without warning. Your male will spend hours building and repairing a cluster of bubbles at the surface. This is normal healthy behavior, not a sign that it needs a mate.

At night, bettas sleep. Sometimes in strange positions. On a leaf, wedged behind a filter, or resting on the substrate. The first time you see it, you will think something is wrong. It is not.

FAQS

Are They Easy To Care For?

Yes, Betta fish are one of the easiest freshwater fish to care for. They have a labyrinth organ, which allows them to tolerate smaller spaces and water with high nutrient content. That being said, Betta fish should still have a tank at least 5 gallons in size, a quality filtration unit, heating, and regular feeding and tank cleaning.

Can They Live In Tap Water?

Yes, a Betta fish can live in tap water if you condition the water prior to putting your new fish in your tank. You will want to use a conditioner like Seachem Prime. If you are thinking about using purified water, avoid distilled water or RODI water. You can use that type of water if you use an aquarium materializer, but most aquarists do fine with tap water + a water conditioner when it comes to running a Betta tank.

How Often Should You Change The Water?

If you keep your Betta in an aquarium, you should consider changing your aquarium water every 7-10 days. I know some people do keep Bettas in bowls. If you are keeping them in a bowl, you should consider changing the bowl water every other day.

How Often Should I Feed Them?

You should feed your Betta fish twice per day. Keep in mind, that you need to have the filtration to feed them that much. Test your tank water to see if your levels are stable. If not, you can feed them less. It’s also okay to have a freshwater fish fast for a day every week. Fasting is actually good for their digestive system!

Is the Betta Fish Right for You?

Before you add a betta fish what they actually need to thrive to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Betta Fish What They Actually Need to Thrives need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the betta fish what they actually need to thrive is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Betta Fish Compares to Similar Species

Want a centerpiece fish for a nano tank? Get a betta. Want a peaceful community schooler? Get ember tetras instead. Want low maintenance? Get neither. Both need real care.

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the betta fish what they actually need to thrive stacks up against some common alternatives.

The betta fish what they actually need to thrive occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the betta fish what they actually need to thrive or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the betta fish what they actually need to thrive needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Closing Thoughts

A Betta Fish tank is in my mind the best way to introduce yourself to the wonderful world of aquarium keeping. A Betta tank is small and low on maintenance making it a lower barrier to entry than other aquarium setups. There are a large variety of Betta breeds and colors. It is difficult to really get bored keeping Betta because there is so much variety and they are loaded with personality.

February 9, 2020

The 12 Best LED Lighting For Reef Tanks Of 2026 – Tested And Reviewed

Reef LED lighting is one of the most important. and most confusing. equipment decisions you’ll make. The wrong fixture wastes money and stunts coral growth; the right one can keep SPS thriving for years. I’ve run a 125-gallon reef and evaluated a lot of fixtures over the years, so I’ve a clear sense of what separates good reef LEDs from the overhyped ones. Here are my top picks across different price points.

Are you struggling trying to find a quality lighting system for your reef tank?

In this blog, we share the best products for reef tank lighting, from LED Lighting systems to hybrid systems. I’ll also include PAR ratings as I’ve them available.

With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their lighting issues with their corals (and believe me, it’s complicated navigating this just relying on what manufacturers tell you). I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios, installed several of these systems in client tanks and my own to determine the best LED lighting for reef tanks on the market.

Mark’s Expert Take

Reef lighting is the most expensive mistake hobbyists make. PAR and spectrum both matter, but acclimation is the thing nobody talks about. I’ve seen perfectly healthy coral bleach under lights that were technically excellent, because the owner ramped them up too fast. My protocol is simple: start at 30% intensity, add 10% per week. The best light on the market is useless if you fry your coral in week one.

Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot, 25+ years in the hobby

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice!

Neptune Sky

Click For Best Price

High End Lighting
Diffusor
Designed for controllers

Best Value

Current USA IC Pros

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Great Brand
Great Value
Good For Mixed Reefs

Budget Option

Viparspectra LED

Buy On Amazon

Great Price
Powerful
Mixed Reefs

There are a lot of light choices that fit multiple budgets and needs, but you may be wondering what I’d suggest off the bat. Since, reefer needs differ, we have the following recommendations based on the criteria below:

Best Led for Nano Reefs – AI Prime HD (Premium) or Hipagero (Budget)
Best Led for Mixed Reefs Up to Easy SPS – Kessil 360X (Premium) or Orbit Pros (Budget)
Best Led for Mixed Reefs Heavier SPS – Neptune Sky (Premium) or Viparspectras (budget)
Best Led for Acropora Heavy – Neptune Sky or Aquatic Life Hybrid + Radion G5 (Premium) or Current R24 + T5 with DIY light mount or inside the canopy

How We Ranked These Lights

Every light on this list was evaluated against six real-world criteria, not manufacturer marketing sheets.

PAR spread across the full footprint (not just peak PAR directly below the fixture). A light that reads 400 PAR at 12 inches but drops to 80 PAR at the corners of a 24-inch tank is useless for mixed reefs.
Blue and UV spectrum for coral fluorescence. Zoanthids, Acropora, and most LPS need wavelengths in the 380-450nm range. Cheap strips without true UV output look blue but do not produce fluorescence or drive coral growth the same way.
Controllability. Bluetooth or WiFi scheduling is not a luxury. You need an acclimation ramp schedule when adding new coral, and you need the ability to dial back intensity during summer temperature swings.
Heat output. Lights that run hot add heat load to the tank. In reef tanks, temperature stability is non-negotiable. High-quality LEDs with proper heat sinks run cooler and last longer.
Warranty and manufacturer support. Reef lighting is expensive. A two-year warranty means nothing if the company does not answer support tickets. I’ve dealt with manufacturers directly, and response time tells you everything about how they handle failures.
Field results. PAR numbers on a spec sheet are one thing. Tanks actually growing Acropora, Montipora, and demanding LPS under a given light tell you what the light can really do.

The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

The list below contains the best LED lights for reef tanks available for purchase today and the ones we considered in our review. The lights listed here cover all types of reef tank setups as well as all budgets.

Picture	Name	Best For	Link
Editor’s Choice!	Neptune Sky	High End Reefs	Click For Best Price
Best Value	Current USA Orbit Marine IC Pro (BlueTooth)	Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Budget Option	Viparspectra LED Aquarium Light	Mixed Reefs	Buy On Amazon
	EcoTech Radion	High End Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price
	Hipargergo LED Aquarium Light	Small Reefs	Buy On Amazon
	Hydra Series LED Lights	Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Kessil A360X	Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Kessil AP9X	High End Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price
	MicMol Smart LED Reef System	Soft & LPS Reefs	Buy On Amazon
	Current USA R24 Pendant	Mixed Reefs Hybrid Systems	Click For Best Price Buy On SWA
	Aquatic Life T5/LED Hybrid Mounting System	Heavy SPS Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Retired :’-(	Ocean Revive T247-B	Mixed Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

The 12 Best LED Aquarium Lights for Corals, Reef Tanks

Let’s get started with the reviews :). I’ll provide videos and images of sample tanks running these led lights for reference.

1. Neptune Sky – The System That Answers The call

Editor’s Choice

Neptune Sky

Best Reef LED

The best reef LED on the market. The first fully complete LED unit that actually will work with SPS tanks. Complete with APEX integration and diffusors

Click For Best Price

A manufacturer finally address all the issues and hang ups I’ve ever had about LEDs in reef tanks. The new Neptune Sky reminds me of the feeling I got when I first saw the SICCE Syndra SDC, the best aquarium return pump I’ve seen. Like DC pumps, LED lights have major drawbacks that manufacturers are unwilling to talk about. The main issue is shadowing when it comes to SPS tanks.

Previous manufacturers tried to get around this by amping up the PAR in their lights, using various lenses, and working through the spectrum issues. It wasn’t until EcoTech released their G4 units that you had a competent LED that you could be comfortable with SPS tanks.

The Neptune Sky takes it a step further though. EcoTech’s Radion G5 held this top spot for a few years. I’d recommend that light to anyone who was very serious about growing corals like a pro. I can say that the Neptune Sky has upended EcoTech’s Radion as the best reef LEDs on the market. Let’s look at some features that Neptune lays out. They are very aware of the past limitations of Reef LEDs.

The video from Neptune openly admits the looming problem LEDs have how for years. Deep down, metal halides and T5s have been the gold standard for spectrum and coral growth for years. Nothing, not even the highest quality LEDs could do what this combo did for SPS corals.

LEDs by their very nature are focused lights, which aren’t ideal for SPS corals. It creates shadowing and hotspots. The Sky changes all of this. It is an attempt to mimic how the sun interacts with the ocean. You get 104 LEDs in the unit with an integrated diffusor. For the life of me, I could not understand why for so many years LED manufacturers didn’t put in a diffusor while planted LED systems like Twinstar did (because plants naturally shadow!).

This is also the first unit I’ve seen that can handle more than a 24″ footprint. The Sky can handle up to 36″ per unit, making this effectively cheaper than the EcoTech for 3 and 6 foot long reef tanks. Say bye to the disco effect from lower quality lights and shadowing from other fixtures. This is a complete light for the serious coral enthustiast.

The Sky, if you can afford it, is the ultimate reef light. If you’re on a lower budget, there are other options that can accommodate you. It’s also best for mixed and SPS coral reefs. If you’re looking to grow low light corals, it’s probably overkill unless you desire designer soft corals like bounce mushrooms and fancy zoas.

Best For: SPS and high end reefs

Pros

A complete LED light for SPS tanks
Neptune APEX integration
Covers 36″ per light

Cons

Expensive
Not beginner friendly to setup

Mark’s #1 Pick for Reef Tanks

Neptune Sky

The Neptune Sky earns the top spot because it solves the one problem no other LED has fully addressed: shadow-free, even light distribution across the entire footprint. The built-in diffusor means you’re not fighting hot spots in a mixed reef or watching the undersides of your SPS colonies die from shadowing. APEX integration is a genuine advantage for anyone already in the Neptune ecosystem. It’s expensive. It should be. This is the first all-in-one LED I’m comfortable recommending for a serious SPS build without a hybrid workaround.

2. Current USA Orbit Marine IC Pros – Comprehensive Unit With Controller Package

Best Value!

Current USA Orbit Marine IC Pro

With its plug and play ability and ease of use. The orbit marine is one of the more approachable LEDs for new reefers. Now with a Mobile App!

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

The Current USA Orbit Marine IC Pros are newly improved with a mobile app and bluetooth compatibility. This light comes with its very own app that can power not only the aquarium LED system itself, but can control the Orbit Marine EFlux Wavemaker and EFlux Return Pump for a completely integrated package. I feel that these IC Pros have its best value with their 36″ and 72″ model as it represents a VERY attractive purchase for those of us with 3 and 6 foot long mixed reef tanks.

The Current USA Orbit Marine controller itself runs off a mobile app and is pretty easy to use and program. It comes with a ramp up and ramp down feature that is is a standard 2 hour ramp up and ramp down. You can adjust the daytime, sunset, and night settings so your reef tank can adjust it’s lighting accordingly as the day goes on. Check out this sneak peak video from current on how it works.

When paired with the Eflux Wavemaker, you can you can adjust the flow and use the gyre settings when using 2 wavemakers and even use a feed feature that will shut off the pumps when feeding. There are other features of the aquarium led light like a lighting and cloudy weather feature, but I feel they’re more for the cool factor than function.

The lights themselves are moderately powerful, which makes them idiot proof for beginner reefers as Orbit Marine publishes PAR output information on their website for easy reference and tuning. This makes the Current USA Orbit Marine one of the best user friendly led lights on the market. You can see the PAR ratings below. This makes them perfect for softie, LPS, and easy to care for SPS corals.

The final great point for the Current USA Orbit Marine is the mount. The led aquarium light can be rim mounted for a very clean and modern look. Most lights that cover this long of a tank have to be hung on a ceiling or mounted on the tank with brackets which both have downfalls (some people don’t want to put holes in their ceiling and the bracket mount can look ugly).

The cons I’ve this unit is that you will need to purchase the Current USA Orbit Marine Heavyweight mount if you have a larger glass rimmed tank like a 125 gallon tank as the standard rim mount will only work for rimless a marine aquarium. Now that the Pro model is available with the bluetooth package, it’s a greater value than it was in the past!

As you can see from the photo above, this unit is perfected suited for a mixed reef tank. This system has great value for those looking at 3 and 6 foot tanks. The Current USA Orbit Marine IC Pros are best for mixed reefs up to mixed reefs with starter SPS corals.

For Mixed Tanks with some SPS (starter SPS only)

Pros

Great value – especially for larger tanks
Love the integration of the controller to their wavemakers and return pump
Can be rim mounted giving a very clean and modern look
PAR output readily available from Current USA Orbit Marine

Cons

Not suited for heavy SPS tanks
The lights themselves are easy to crack since they’re so lightweight
Heavyweight mount rim accessory for larger tanks can be a little pricey

3. Viparspectra – Budget Unit With a Quality Black Box

Budget Option

Viparspectra Marine LED

Budget Option

The best reef black box that is readily available today.

Buy On Amazon

The Viparspectra LED Aquarium Light is your traditional “Chinese Black Box”, but they have a more reliable name brand and recognition in the industry. What I like about these lights is that there are a lot of success stories using these lights in mixed reefs and SPS tanks. The main reason why they can work in SPS tanks is the how powerful they’re.

The PAR output of these led lights is in the Radion territory. So you’re getting a cheap light with the power behind that with proven field cases where they have grown high end and more difficult to keep corals. The price for this led light are hard to beat!

The price comes at a cost though. The LED light is very bare bones as it only has a timer built in and a dimmer to tone down the intensity. There’s no ramp up or ramp down and there is no mobile app that powers this. They are traditionally bulky units , like all black boxes, so they don’t look pretty when hung and really are best hidden in a canopy vs. a rimless marine aquarium setup. For those of you concerned with the electronics rating, the competiting Mars Aqua unit is UL rated. I just prefer the Viparspectra.

A note for those of you running heavy SPS tanks. These units are best modified by removing the lenses to reduce the hot spots, reduce the disco effect, and spreading out the PAR distribution. Here is a video showing how to perform such a function. The video is a Mars Aqua light, but the operation is still the same.

For Mixed Corals

Pros

Cheap
Powerful, can handle LPS and SPS corals
Easily diffused by removing lenses.

Cons

Bare bones – no mobile app and little control-ability
No stock rim mount – they’re bulky anyway
Not plug and play

4. EcoTech Radion G5 – The Top System for Pros and Coral Sellers

Used by World Wide Corals

EcoTech Radion G5

Editor’s Choice

The newest Radion G5 is a massive update to the prior generation. It’s the light of choice for pro level reefers.

Click For Best Price

It pains me to drop the Radion to a #4 spot, since there is a reason why big time coral sellers like World Wide Corals and major pro reefers use the EcoTech Radion G5s to light their reef tanks. Two reasons why – full spectrum controllability and power.

The EcoTech Radion controllability is second to none in the industry. The Radions led lights are powered by a cloud-based command center known as EcoSmart Live that runs off a web browser. The software updates the lighting system automatically and there are various lighting modes available from many hobbyists.

The Reeflink that is separately available allows you to connect your Radions via smartphone vs. through the standard USB functionality that the unit comes with. The spectrum of the lights can be changed, the intensity can be adjusted, the lighting schedule can be modified. It’s really unlimited flexibility with these units.

The Radions can be mounted with various options including rail mounted or our favorite, rim mounted. A diffuser kit is can also be purchased separately in order to reduce PAR and eliminate hot spots and mitigate shadowing.

Power is what it’s all about with these units. They are VERY powerful and can easily burn corals when running at 100%. As a result, a lot of tuning is required and recommended with a PAR meter, but this unit is made for hardcore reef junkies so the intensity makes sense.

The biggest con with this unit is the price. They are the most expensive led lights on this unit as well as the most feature rich. They aren’t plug and play and require tuning to get correct. For more information – see our full review.

Best For: High End Mixed Reefs, SPS Dominant (with diffuser and hybrid solutions), Commercial Use

Pros

Nearly unlimited customization
Powerful lights – can handle hardcore light intensive corals
Industry standard among commercial coral growers

Cons

Very expensive
Not plug and play – requires tuning though not as much as the G4

5. Hipargergo Aqua Knight – Incredible Value and a Great Choice for Smaller Tanks

Great For Nano Reefs

Hipargergo Aqua Knight

A small but mighty LED. This is a budget saver for those with small reef tanks

Buy On Amazon

If you’re building a nano reef or similar under 40 gallon reef tank, the Hipargergo Aqua Knight is a strong consideration for the light of choice. It is a very affordable light, being the least expensive unit on this list, but also very powerful and competent to be used in most mixed reef setups.

It is a small aquarium light with a small light spread, making this a perfect light for nano reef tanks under 40 gallons. What I really love about this led light is the manufacturer completely backs up their lights with a 30 day money back guarantee and are happy to answer your questions 24-7. You really can’t go wrong with this light if you have a smaller reef tank. In fact, Inappropriate Reefer used this light in his 10 gallon nano reef build.

Hiparergo Aqua Knight LED Inappropriate Reefer

The main drawback of this aquarium light is its size. This is a very affordable led light, but it serves only nano reef tanks. The touch sensitivity can be annoying because they don’t always read correctly when you touch them. It’s so bad sometimes you have to pray that the light is reading your touches.

Finally, while it does come with a rim mount, the mount itself can be too long for some nano reef setups. Overall though, this is the choice if you’re building a nano reef and well below name brand offerings like the AI Prime HD and Kessil A80.

For Nano Setups

Pros

Cheap price
Powerful for their size and “idiot proof” to use
Adjustable 2 channel light system

Cons

Small light spread, best for nano reefs
Touch sensitive controls can be a bit finicky
Mount is too long for some nano tanks and doesn’t adjust

6. Hydra Series – A Cheaper Radion With Lots of Customization

Radion Alternative

AI Hydra

AI offers the most user-friendly and sleek UI of all the LEDs on this list. A great alternative to Radions

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For those of you interested in a EcoTech Radion, but are slightly out of budget for one, the Hydra Series LED Lights by sister Company AquaIllumination are a light to look at.

The big advantage over the Radion is that all Hydra series lights don’t need a controller. They function of a wonderful smartphone app. The app for this led light has incredible customization, allowing you to modifying your spectrum settings, manage up to 30 lights at once, and set up timers. There’s even a coral accumulation setting that allows you to introduce new corals safely into your system. All of this on a smartphone that you can use anywhere in the world and at no additional cost!

The Hydra series comes in both the Hydra 32 and Hydra 64 models that will satisfy the vast majority of reefer’s need. AI makes a number of different led light mount options with a rail kit, rim mount kits, and even a flex arm solution so you can work with what they have to pull off the look that you want.

They even come in white or black. For those with smaller aquariums like nano tanks, the AI Prime HD offers similar functionality. In 2020, a new Hydra 64 model debuted with more features, more power, but at a higher price.

So what are the drawbacks of this led light? Well, even though it’s cheaper than the Radions, they’re still on the expensive side for many reefers. PAR wise, they aren’t as powerful as Radions and will definitely need a hybrid solution for heavy SPS as a diffuser kit isn’t available. The Hydra led light will serve the vast majority of reefers well alone though and are well worth the money.

For Mixed Corals

Pros

Included mobile app is easily the best on this list with great customization
AI makes various light mounts that fit your needs and looks
Many purchase options available for your tank setup even for nano reefs

Cons

Still on the expensive for many reefers
No diffuser kit for heavy SPS tanks – you should go hybrids for heavy SPS
Not as powerful PAR wise as Radions

7. Kessil 360X – The Next Gen A360X Delivers

Kessil A360X

Kessils are an easy to use high-end reef lighting solution

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Kessil is very well known in the industry with high quality lights best suited for mixed reefs that are about as plug and play as you get. Kessil’s next gen A360X is an upgrade of the original A360 offering 25% more light output with a 30% smaller package. Kessil’s design on this led aquarium light have already been pretty bulletproof and nothing like other units you have seen.

This Kessil led aquarium light is sealed. I’ve witnessed old A360s accidentally getting dropped in water and still working like nothing happened!. Kessil’s roots go further back than just reef lighting. They are a professional company started by a biologist, computer scientist, and physicist. The parent Company is Dicon Fiberoptics. The Company has been specializing in elite quality lighting for over 30 years and they have a quality manufacturing and QA process.

While Kessil does sell a spectrum controller, the default spectrum that Kessil supplies you with has been heavily researched by their R&D department. You shouldn’t need to adjust it as Kessil really goes out there to make sure you have everything you need to succeed with their led aquarium light out of the box. The intensity and spectrum can be adjusted on board with the knobs on top of the unit. In addition to the A360X, Kessil offers a similar built A80 that is ideal for nano reef tanks.

My main gripes with this next gen model is the price. I was expecting these new models to be around the same price as the old A360 led aquarium light, but they’re still at a premium price that venture into Hydra territory. This puts them it out of reach for some reefers.

The PAR output still isn’t that high, but that has always been Kessil’s thing as they design these led lights for mixed reefs and know that heavy SPS tanks need a hybrid system with LEDs. You still need a spectral controller to adjust your spectrum and a mobile app would have been nice.

However, at the end of the day this is a Kessil branded led aquarium light. Kessil’s construction and commitment to quality is top notch. Their reputation speaks for itself.

For Mixed Corals

Pros

Bullet proof design – these units can take a beating!
Top of the line spectrum colors
Still idiot proof like the last gen, no need to adjust like other high end units

Cons

The next gen model is more expensive than the old 360s
The PAR is still not that high
Spectral controller required for full control

8. Kessil AP9X – Pro Level for Pro Setups

Kessil AP9X

A user friendly high end offering from Kessil.

Click For Best Price

The Kessil AP9X is Kessil’s top of the line led aquarium light. It still offers the idiot proof plug and play out of the box functionality like other Kessil units, but in a larger comprehensive light that is ideal for 36″ x 24″ for SPS tanks and 48″ x 24″ for mixed reefs.

This light addresses my biggest gripes with all Kessil aquarium led light systems, the lack of a fully functional mobile app. The AP9X comes with a mobile app that has all the features that you want. It has a manual mode, program mode, a coral accumulation mode, lunar cycle, weather effects and more!

The main drawback of this aquarium led light is the price. While a single unit can serve a 48″ long mixed reef well, it still is a pretty expensive led lighting system. It also isn’t as compact as the Kessil 360Xs and the PAR performance is mildly powered like most Kessils (since they’re all designed to run without adjustments out of the box).

For Mixed Corals

Pros

Plug and play idiot proof pro level light
Great mobile app included with full customization
Multiple mount options including a rim mount

Cons

Expensive
Not compact
Not as powerful PAR wise as the Radions

9. MicMol Aqua Air Smart System – A Cheaper Aquamaxx Prism

MicMol Aqua Air

The Aqua Air is easy to use and will grow most beginner friendly corals

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Some of you may have heard of the AquaMaxx Prism LED lights. Well, the dirty secret is MicMol is the original creator of the led and AquaMaxx private labels these lights from them. The MicMol Aqua Air Smart LED Reef System is a plug and play aquarium LED designed for Softy and LPS tanks. These are an upgrade to the original Aquamaxx Neolights, which was reviewed by Reefbuilders with PAR figures showing ideal PAR for softies and LPS.

This new generation led lighting system is about 30% more powerful than the Nemolight. This puts the light in the sweet spot of most LPS corals so for LPS dominated tanks this is an ideal light that is ready to go without any adjustments. The MicMol lights are more popular over in Europe versus the US.

They just don’t spend a lot of time marketing their lights, but it’s a very affordable light with highly quality chips and leds. This particular model has no fan which will make them extra quiet over fanned models. Since the light isn’t super powerful, the built in heat sinks are adequate for the light.

This led lighting system comes with it’s own controller that comes with a variety of settings like a clock, timer, and channel special effects. That’s a lot of features for this price range and very welcomed for these plug and play models.

The main drawback with these lights is they’re not very powerful so they’re best for LPS and softy tanks. It’s a great light nonetheless.

For Primarily Soft and LPS Corals

Pros

Cheap
No fan – super quiet
Good functionality for the price point

Cons

Moderately powerful – best for LPS and softies
No mobile app

10. Current USA Orbit R24 – A Cheaper Kessil

Great Value

Current USA Orbit R24

The Orbit R24 answers the market with a value priced puck that has the PAR output to work with high demand corals and hybrid setups!

Click For Best Price

Buy on SWA

With the release of the new Kessil 360X led lighting system, the price range has gone out of the window for some. In fact, there has been a big gap in the market for a pendant light that has reliability, a brand name, while having the PAR output to handle a high demand system or hybrid setup.

Reefers didn’t have many options. They could try a AI Prime, but the PAR wasn’t strong enough to work in a hybrid setup. This meant you had to look at Kessils and other expensive lights like EcoTech. Where was the value option here?

Enter the Current USA R24. This special pendant light finally answers our questions for a cheaper light that has the PAR to be a serious option in a hybrid system. The PAR output below are higher than the AI Prime with nearly the same watts.

While the mobile app isn’t at the same level as the AI Prime, the Current app is capable and easy to use. It’s designed to be dummy proof and accessible for all levels. The industrial design is actually really favorable for newbies.

Ever drop an LED in your aquarium water? If you have, it can be a disaster to have your pedant get completely destroyed by taking that accidental dip. In the past, only the Kessil’s industrial design was able to survive a dip in water. Now, the R24 has the same durability. Having a cheaper pendant light that can survive a drop is peace of mind, especially if you’re prone to having butter fingers!

That added durability comes with a price. It not as pretty as an AI prime mounted with a goose neck mount. These units are built to last. Current has been working with a lot of public aquariums designing fixtures that are built to last. Units that are built to last may not have the fanciest look – which I’m reminded of when I see fixtures like the Kessil.

The other thing that bothers me is the fan. I don’t really like fans myself on LEDs, but it’s a sacrifice you make when you’re dealing with higher output and more durable LEDs. The fan is actually pretty silent. Your protein skimmer and return pump will likely make more noise than this fan. I feel it’s a livable sacrifice to have a unit as durable as this.

So if you’re looking for that mid-market pendant unit that won’t break your bank that you can use on your nano reef tank, mixed reef, or hybrid setup look no further!

For Mixed Corals

Pros

Competitive price
Better PAR output than the Prime
Mobile App
Can survive being dropped in water!

Cons

Has a Fan (Thought it’s super silent)
Bulky

11. Aquatic Life T5/LED Hybrid Mounting System – The System of Choice for Stickheads

Best For SPS Corals

AQUATICLIFE 48″ T5/HO Hybrid Light

For those with want a tank full of stick candy, a T5 hybrid unit like this one is the go to. Combine with Radion for the ultimate in lighting today

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Click For Best Price

You have seen all these LED systems, but for those reefers with heavy SPS, the major issue with LED aquarium systems is spread and shadowing. A hybrid system like the Aquatic Life T5/LED Hybrid Mounting System is the best solution to go with when it comes to making a fully distributed lighting system for stick heads.

This unit comes with a T5 system that holds 4 T5s in total. The middle section of the unit is to mount the LEDs. The unit comes with a pendant mount that will work on the original Kessil 360 and a universal mount bracket that will work for EcoTech Radions, AI Hydras, and even the Current R24s. Aquatic life even sells a cabinet mount if you don’t want to mount the unit to the ceiling.

The main drawback for this unit is that you have to purchase the T5s and the LED units separately. It would have been nice if there were bundles available to purchase, but with all the MAP polices of all these brand names, it makes sense that Aquatic Life can’t offer a bundled system. I also wish they made this unit as 72″ model for us 6 foot long tank reefers. You have to purchase two 36″ units for a 6 foot long tank which is a bummer.

Other than that, this is the unit of choice for stickheads who want the electricity saving and control-ability advantages that LEDs provide without the shadowing issues.

For Acropora heavy setups

Pros

No shadowing!
Can be combined with many LED systems
Can be cabinet mounted for rimless tanks

Cons

You have to purchase the T5s lights and LED units separately
Does not come in 72″

12. Ocean Revive 247-B – Not Your Average Black Box

Retired :’-(

Ocean Revive

Great spectrum, spread, and PAR. The Ocean Revive offered incredible value for the budget conscious shopper. A casualty of the COVID pandemic 😥.

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Buy On Amazon

This used to be my favorite reef light to sell. In fact, I used to sell them to LFSs across the country because I was easier to contact then the manufacturer 😅. Unfortunately, the manufacturer was shut down during the COVID pandemic and as a result they’re out of business with no future production in site. I’ll keep this review up so others know what’s going on because it’s hard to find information on the Company and I rank for their keywords.

The Ocean Revive T247-B is a black box in value, but not in looks. Far cheaper than the EcoTech Radions and AI Hydra, this unit can compete with the Hydras in power and what it can grow as evidenced as being the light of choice of Pacific East Aquaculture, a Maryland licensed coral aquaculture facility providing high end corals to reefkeepers since 2000.

Knowing that facilities and even some LFS (to save money but they will still try to sell you Radions and Hydras ^_^) use these units says a lot about them. They have the power to grow all types of corals from soft corals and anemones to Acroporas and the unit comes in a sturdy package that doesn’t look cheap.

Ocean Revives are also one of the few units on this list that actually get cheaper the more units you buy. Because of how the manufacturer prices their stock, they grant sellers like us the ability to give bulk discounts to reefers so if you’re looking to purchase 2 or 3 units you can save even more money!

The Ocean Revive, however, is a no frill LED light system. It has no ramp up or ramp down features. Like most black boxes, there isn’t a readily available rim mount. There’s no spectrum adjustment, but the unit has a full spectrum led layout that doesn’t need to be adjusted. Either a ceiling mount or ugly looking bracket mount are your standard choices.

All the functions of the unit are on board with the light itself as there is no separate controller or mobile app to run. Its functionality is really much like the old T5s fixtures from back in the day, but the light is a very powerful and functional unit that will server reefers well and save you lots of money over the brand names.

For Mixed Corals

Pros

A pro level light at a very reasonable price – better value with multiple units
Very powerful and great spectrum
Does not look cheap like other black boxes

Cons

No ramp up/ramp down features
No rim mount
No mobile app to control unit or spectrum customization
No longer available 😥

Should You Buy a Reef LED? Honest Verdicts by Tank Type

Not every reef needs a $500 light. Here’s when to spend and when to save.

Buy a high-end reef LED if you are:

Keeping SPS (Acropora, Montipora, Stylophora) anywhere in the tank. These corals need sustained high PAR and full-spectrum output across the entire footprint. Cut corners here and you’ll get tissue recession.
Keeping demanding LPS like Blastomussa, Torch coral, or Hammer coral that you want to see extended and thriving. They’ll survive under a mid-range light but won’t look the way they’re supposed to.
Serious about the hobby long-term. Buying a quality light once costs less than replacing a cheap light twice while explaining bleached coral to yourself both times.

Skip the premium reef LED and use a mid-range or budget option if you are:

Running a fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) setup. A reef-rated LED is overkill. You’re paying for PAR and spectrum output you don’t need.
Keeping only soft corals and easy LPS like leathers, mushrooms, and Duncan coral. These are low-light tolerant. A mid-tier LED handles them without issue, and a budget black box can work with proper placement.
New to reef tanks and not yet sure what direction you’re going. Start mid-range, learn the hobby, then upgrade when you know what you actually want to keep.

Benefits of LED Lighting for Reef Tanks

Before we go through the various reef LED lighting systems, let’s talk about why LEDs have gotten so popular with reef tanks. In the past, reef tanks were run with VHOs or T5s that were equipped with manual timers. They provided great even spread of light with no shadowing, but they didn’t produce a lot of light intensity (PAR). Then came metal halides which produced a lot of light intensity and you have hybrid halide and T5 systems.

These systems provided a great environment for all reef tanks, but consumed a ton of power and kept tanks hot sometimes to the point of requiring fans or a chiller to keep the temperatures down.

LED came out with an promise to decrease the energy cost for a reef tank. They are far more energy efficient than metal halides and T5s. They also have unique drivers that allow them to be customizable. Many aquarium LED fixtures will have electronic timers built in that will turn on and turn off the light for you. They will have dimmable features and will ramp up and ramp down simulating morning and night time effects. Others will even run on your smartphone via an app!

Are They Safe to Use?

One of the main advantages in safety that reef LED lighting systems have is are the construction. LED lights aren’t made of metal filaments or gas that halides are made of.

Since manufacturers have been embracing LED lights in reef tanks, you’re starting to see additional safety features. Some marine aquarium LED light fixtures are splash proof or even water proof. A good example are Kessil LED light systems, which have been know to survive falling into the tank and not electrocuting the tank or shorting out.

It Can Be Compact

The compactness of several reef LED lighting systems is the very reason they’re the ideal choice for nano reef and smaller tanks. Many reef aquarium LED lighting systems are made in “pucks” which means the unit is far more compact than traditional T5s. They are also lightweight, which means many can be mounted on the rim of the marine aquarium creating a very clean and modern look on rimless tanks where a canopy can be left out.

What T5-Only and Cheap LED Strips Miss for Reef

T5 fluorescent fixtures have a real track record in reef tanks, and I respect that. Coral growers used them for years for good reason: even spread, no hot spots, excellent color rendering. But they have two problems that matter in 2026.

First, T5s give you no controllability. You can time them. That’s it. No acclimation ramp schedule, no intensity dial-back during heat events, no spectrum tuning for color. Every modern reef challenge benefits from programmability, and T5 gives you none of it.

Second, the bulbs degrade. T5 output drops by roughly 30-40% over 12 months. Most hobbyists don’t track this, which means the tank that looked great at month two is running on meaningfully less light by month eight. If your SPS starts receding for no obvious reason, old T5 bulbs are often the culprit nobody checks.

Cheap LED strips and generic “reef” lights miss something different. Most lack true UV output in the 380-400nm range. They advertise a blue channel that looks vivid to human eyes but does not drive the coral fluorescence response or penetrate water depth the way purpose-built reef diodes do. PAR at depth collapses. A light that shows 250 PAR at 6 inches might deliver 60 PAR at the substrate of a 24-inch deep tank. Corals placed in the lower third of the tank stall or decline and the hobbyist assumes a water chemistry problem.

The controllability gap is the other issue. Without a scheduling app, you cannot run a proper acclimation ramp when adding new coral or a replacement fixture. Coral bleaching from transitioning to a new, more powerful light is one of the most avoidable losses in the hobby.

FAQs

How many watts do I need for a coral setup?

How many watts of LED lighting you need will depend on the size of your marine aquarium and type of corals you will be keeping. Most LED systems are actually overpowered PAR wise for many corals. It’s mostly about footprint. The vast majority of systems will power a 24 x 24 footprint. Measure your PAR in the tank for best results.

Can you grow coral with these units?

Yes, you can grow coral with LED lighting. Many pro growers and aquaculture suppliers are now using LED systems to grow out corals. This is due to the cost savings due to lower energy costs.

What visible spectrum is best for corals?

Blue and violet have been proven to be the best light spectrum for corals. Many of these lights in this review roundup have the correct spectrum to grow corals. Ensuring that the manufacturer you select has done the proper R&D and field results are available from other hobbyist will instill confidence in your purchase.

What is a good schedule for a reef tank?

For a reef tank, I’d recommend 8-10 hours on your lighting schedule to start. You can adjust from there as you get a feel for your tank. Systems with ramp up and ramp down features can be turned on longer since the intensity will very over the course of the day.

Closing Thoughts

Coral bleaching from bad lighting is irreversible. Once a coral bleaches and expels its zooxanthellae, you’re in recovery mode, hoping it re-populates before the tissue dies. Most of the time it doesn’t. That’s not a recoverable mistake you learn from and move on. That’s a dead coral and a hundred dollars you’ll never get back.

Buy the right light the first time. Match it to what you’re actually keeping, not what you think you might keep someday. If you’re running a soft coral and mushroom reef, a mid-tier controllable LED handles it fine. If you’re going SPS-dominant, the Neptune Sky or a hybrid setup with the Aquatic Life T5 frame is where I’d put my money.

Start at 30% intensity. Ramp up slowly. Use a PAR meter if you can. And read the reviews of people actually growing the coral you want, not just specs from a manufacturer who wants you to buy their fixture.

Have a question about a specific setup? Drop it in the comments. I read every one.

Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

What Do You Feel Are the Top Systems for These Tanks?

I hope after this article you’re able to make an informed decision on what aquarium LED lighting system works best for the reef tank you’re planning. The major brand lights are all very high quality, built to last, and all have ideal spectrum to grow lights. The cheaper lights we have provided in this post will definitely grow corals and have high quality spectrum, just not as functional as the name brand lights. Please let us know in the comments your thoughts about what lights have worked for you. Happy shopping :).

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

February 5, 2020

Dutch Aquascape – Complete Style Guide for Dutch Style Planted Tanks
Dutch aquascaping is the most plant-dense, visually complex style in the hobby. think lush layers of color, contrasting textures, and meticulously planned plant streets that create depth. It originated in the Netherlands in the 1930s and remains the most demanding style to execute well. I’ve studied Dutch layouts extensively and find them fascinating precisely because the challenge is so high: no rocks, no driftwood, just masterful plant selection and placement carrying the whole design. If you’re ready to step up your planted tank game, this guide covers exactly how Dutch aquascaping works and how to approach it.
Key Takeaways
- Dutch aquascapes are an aquascape style that focuses on stem plants
- They require CO2 injection and heavy fertilization in order to thrive
- They are one of the most prune-heavy scapes to maintain due to the number of stem plants used
- They require more intense lighting than other scapes and shadowing is a concern due to stem plants
History

The Dutch Aquascape or Dutch Style’s roots originates all the way back to the 1930’s in the Netherlands. It is the oldest aquascaping style in our hobby. The aquascaping style originated with the creation of the Dutch Society of Aquarists or NBAT. It wasn’t until 1956 the the NBAT published the initial set of guidelines of what defined the Dutch Aquascape. They would run annual contests with these guidelines and the judges would actually visit the aquariums instead of working with submitted photos.

Concepts of the Dutch Style Aquascape

The Dutch Aquascape is based on the following principles
- No more than 1 plant species per 4 inches of tank length
- No duplication of the same species in another group
- A shoal of fish should be issued with at least 12 fish from the same species
The rules of the Dutch aquascaping style is very restrictive. Many of the dutch aquascapes you see these days are actually Dutch hybrids with just variations of the rules above. The general rule is to keep about 70% of the aquarium floor planted.

Layout

A Dutch Aquascape is all about the plants. There is no hardscaping to do with this style as we are going to use the plants to setup our landscape. The main thing with this style is obtaining a taller tank as you will be using certain plants that do get tall and you want to allow them time to grow and show their length before pruning. We want to aim for at least 18-24 inches in height for a Dutch scape. Dutch scapes also tend to be a bit wider usually in the 3 to 4 feet range. The 40 gallon breeder tank is a great consideration to use. If you want a serious competition like tank setup, consider a rimless tank.

A Dutch style aquascape does follow the rule of two thirds concept like the Iwagumi, but it’s a bit trickier to pull off. It’s really about impact with this style. The main technique you need to know with Dutch style is terracing and spacing. You will want to place the biggest and brightest plants at your focus points. You can also choose to not follow the rule and then have the option of 4 focal points.

Terracing

Terracing is used with Dutch Style aquariums to convey depth in the aquarium. This is also to create focal points in the aquascape.

Terracing traditionally in agriculture would be creating mounds of soil to create raised sections in the landscape. With the Dutch style or aquascape we position the substrate in a way where we slope it. We start almost flat at the bottom and increase the depth of the substrate as we go from the front of the tank to the back. This is the way this aquascaping style is done in modern times because it allows us to be more flexible with our setup.

Another way of doing is by keeping plant groups on different heights. Space is key as well. We want to space groups of plants at least a half inch between groups of plants. This gives the plants breathing room and room for growth. They will also expand to their best appearance and make pruning a bit easier to do. Spacing to spread out density is also known as streeting in the Dutch Style. Streets are spaces between your plant groups that help create depth and perspective in your aquascape.

Plant Selection

Plants are everything with the Dutch Aquascape. They are your feature pieces. We have to select a variety of plants to have an eye popping aquascape. This means we have to look at shapes, texturs, and colors with our plants. We also need to plant in an order to contrasts our plant mix so our piece does not end up looking dull or overdone. Most of our plants will also be stem plants, meaning they will feed on the nutrients in our substrate. Let’s breaking down our plant selection to the following:

Short plants
- Alternanthera reineckii
- Hygrophila Araguaia
- Eriocaulon species plants
Mid-Size Stem Plants
- Bacopa species plants
- Ludwigia species plants
- Rotala Macrandra
Taller Colored Stem Plants
- Ludwigia pantanal or cuba
- Pogostemon stellatus
- Limnophila hippuroides
There is actually a great stem plant pack available online that will get you some great plants to start with. Check out the link below!

Stem Plant Dutch Pack

This starter pack includes popular dutch style plants like Ludwigia Natans, Bacopa Monnieri. A great way to start out!

Click For Best Price

More About Stem Plants in Tanks

When discussing Dutch Aquascapes, we need to drive into stem plants a bit more. The dutch style will use the most stem plants of any aquascape style. Stem plants growth patterns are vertical with branches. Many will grow tall and will keep growing in the aquarium until they reach the top of your tank.

Because of this, they require the most management of any plants in our hobby. It is not uncommon for these plants to require weekly pruning. If left unchecked, it is very possible that these plants will cover the top of your aquarium and will end up shadowing your entire aquarium. You can see an example from Tropictank YouTube Channel of an overgrown Dutch aquascape that badly needs to be pruned:

Stem plants will also require strong Aquarium Lighting and Aquarium Injected CO2 Systems to grow their best and to display their best colors. Shadowing is a concern with Dutch style tanks.

The good thing with stem plants is they can be easily propagated by cutting off nodes and simply replanting them. This can make a fully planted Dutch Aquascape more fun as you can trade with friends or trade your plants to your aquarium store for credit to help fund your hobby.

Tension vs. Harmony

We talked about this earlier on the Iwagumi style. We know to create visual interest and energy that we need to balance tension and harmony.

So what is tension in a dutch aquascape? This is going to do with the leaf shape ,structure of our plants, shape, and color. Plants with more textured leaves and sharper leaves versus round will create tension. Plants that grow tall versus round will create more tension.

Color is really what stands out from other aquascape styles with the Dutch style. Let’s discuss how this works. In color theory, we have what we call warm and cool colors. Warm colors have the following emotions tied to them: happy, excitement, bright, and angry. They have shorter wavelengths on the light spectrum which makes them feel energetic to us

Cool colors have the following emotions tied to them: Calm, soothing, relaxing, and harmony. They have longer wavelengths on the light spectrum which makes them feel more calm then warm colors.

Contrasting warm and cool colors creates are our tension in our aquascape. We have many things to work with on balancing our tension and harmony balance. Color is just going to be the most obvious, which is why I am touching on it. If you want to learn more about color theory here is a video below from Purple Pretty Door for your enjoyment.

Your goal as the aquascaper is to create that blend of balance with your tension and your harmony. Too much tension and the viewers eye will be over the place. Too much harmony and your aquascape will look boring and too uniform. Research your plant selection careful and draw out a plan for where you are going to plant everything and what plants you are going to use.

Obtaining Your Plants (Tissue Culture vs. Aquacultured)

We discussed it earlier in our Iwagumi Aquascape post. Always lean on tissue culture stem plants. You have less risk with pests and nuisance algae going this route versus purchasing aquascultured plants. They are good value for the money and lab grown.

As with the Iwagumi, you will want to purchase all your live plants at once. You will want to plant densely to start, you will want to plant densely to start.

Setting Up for This Style

Because of the type of plants will be using for a Dutch Aquarium, we cannot utilize the dry start method. We will need to densely plant and flood our tanks when we start up.

This aquascaping style is one type of scape you will not be able to dry scape. It requires more research on the plants and their grow patterns then other styles because of it. Take time to learn your plant’s grow patters so you know where to put your plants to create a proper foreground, background, and middle section of the tank. Use the tension and harmony discussion below to balance your visual impact and create your focal points.

Revisit the discussion about Dutch Style Terracing so you can create proper depth, focal points, and grouping for your plants. For an example Aquascape setup. See the video below by Yulia below:

Lighting

Dutch Aquascapes will use the most light intensive plants in our hobby. We not only want to select a light that encourages a lot of growth, but we have to keep in mind coverage. Coverage and spread is a major and critical consideration in our light selection. Because we are using stem plants that will go large and spread through our tank, we will have an issue with shadowing as plants grow. If you know about LEDs weakness, you will be familiar with shadowing issues with them.

For example with hobbyists with SPS coral tanks, shadowing is a major issue as corals grow. Such will be the case with a Dutch Style aquarium.

Because of this, a T5 fixture is going to be the best choice for our dutch aquascape. T5s strength is from its spread and uniformity. A cheap route that works for our Dutch Style setup is an Odyssea T5 Quad Fixture or Hydrofarm T5s.

Hydrofarm T5

Oldschool T5s are still the very best in spread and spectrum. Ideal for dutch aquascapes

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Bulb selection is very important with T5 setups. For bulbs I would recommend Giesemann bulbs. 2 x Giesemann Super Flora and 2x Giesemann Topic T5s will create a combo of spectrum and proper color tones.

CO2 Systems

The Dutch Style will have some of the most demanding plants in our hobby. They will require CO2 supplementation in order to display their best colors and shape. Without CO2, our Dutch Style attempt will simply fail. There is no way around it with a Dutch Style tank, they are simply a high tech planted tank at their core.

These hungry plants will want a proper CO2 regulator, CO2 bubble diffusor, and an appropriate sized CO2 canister. Check out our Best CO2 Systems Reviews for insights on CO2 systems and why CO2 is so essential for your success.

Editor’s Choice

CO2 Art PRO-SE Series

Best CO2 Regulator
Professional level CO2 Regulator for top level aquascapers and reef tank owners. Backed by a 10 year warranty

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Aquarium Substrates

Because we are going to be planting stem plants that will feed on the soil of our aquarium, an active substrate is a must. We want to have an active substrate that can hold lots of nutrients to help our plants grow to their best potential.

In our Best Planted Tank Substrates blog post, we talked about how ADA Aquasoil is the name in the game when it comes to planted tank substrates. This is the go to soil for planted that require heavy feed. It is a substrate that will allow for regular replanting.

Editor’s Choice!

ADA Aqua Soil

The Best Planted Tank Substrate
The world’s standard in active substrates for planted tanks. Created by brand that founded modern aquascaping

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Fertilization

The ADA Aquasoil is going to give us an excellent start with our Dutch Aquascape and will provide a soil for our plants to feed off of. However, a Dutch style is an aquarium that will require a heavy amount of feeding to the plants so we will be using so may of them. Red plants also make this more complex as they have higher demands than most green plants. Plants in your Dutch Aquascape will grow fast, demand food, want great lighting, and require a lot of CO2 supplementation.

The good thing is that APT Complete is actually designed for Dutch Style aquariums. It was designed by a hobbyist who grows Dutch Style tanks. This is the main supplement you will want to use for your dutch style tank. You can use the full dosage recommended on the bottle and adjust from there.

APT Complete is a all in one fertilizer that is designed for heavily planted, heavy demand aquariums. To learn more about fertilizers, see the Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers blog post for details on macro and micro nutrients.

Editor’s Choice!

APT Complete

Editor’s Choice
Made by an aquascaper for aquascapers. This is the best all around aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. Marco and micronutrients in one bottle!
Use Coupon Code ASDComplete for 10% off your order!

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Fish For These Aquariums

Like the Iwagumi tank, fish are not center point in a Dutch Aquascape. Our focus is on the plants and creating a work of art. The fish compliments our piece, not take it over. Due to this, we are again look at schooling fish like Tetras, especially a Neon Tetra. What I like about Neon Tetras is that they contain the blue we are lacking in our plants. As you may recall, blue is a cool color that unfortunately we are not able to obtain through our plan selection.

Neons offer a perfect opportunity to obtain that rare blue that is available in our aquascape. Not only that, they move in our aquarium so they will work within your aquarium to contrast your tank. It really comes with my highest recommendations when it comes to creating a eye popping Dutch Aquascape.

There are also people who will use Angelfish or even Discus in Dutch Aquascapes. These can work, but the size of the fish can really take away from your aquascape. The decision; however, is all up to you.

Filtration

Dutch Aquascape setups are even more high demanding than the Iwagumi style. It’s one of the most intensive planted aquariums you can keep. A top of the line filtration unit should be considered.

As such, I’m going to recommend the Biomaster Thermos Series of Canister Filters. It’s a complete, durable unit with an aquarium heater built into it. It is the go to now for high tech planted tanks in today’s age.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice
The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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How To Set Up This Style

So we have talked about the history and concepts of the Dutch Aquascape, plant selection and color theory, the best plants, how to setup up the tank, and the fish. Now let’s bring it all together build a setup. Let’s create our shopping list.
- Tank – Landen Rimless 32G Tank (23.6″ L, 17.7″ W, 17.7H”
- Lighting – Odyssa Quad T5 Fixture
- Canister Filter – Biomaster Thermo Canister Filter
- Substrate – ADA Aquasoil
- Lily Pipe Return
- Surface Skimmer
- CO2 Drop Checker
- CO2 Bubble Diffuser
- CO2 regulator with bubble counter
- Liquid fertilizer – APT Complete
Pruning Issues

The major issue with Dutch Aquascapes is pruning. There is so much pruning that needs to be done with your tanks as the plants grow fast and you need to main shapes so your streets look clean and your tank is presentable. One such saying I have heard over the years is someone saying that the only time their Dutch Aquascape looked good was the first day after a pruning. They really do require a lot of upkeep just like any well groom landscape garden. Be prepared to purchase Pruning Aquascape Tools. The video below by Tropictank YouTube Channel illustrates what happens if you let your aquascape go too long without a pruning!

Closing Thoughts

The Dutch Aquascape is a classic aquascape style for freshwater planted tanks. It is one of the most challenging setups you can work with, and also one of the most rewarding. It’s a purely planted tank at its core. You can really flex your planting muscles with this style of aquascape. The Dutch Style reminds me of flower gardens in your home. If you have any comments, please leave them in the comments section. Thank you for reading!

🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
January 19, 2020

Algae Eaters – The 7 Best For Your Saltwater Tank

Saltwater algae control is a challenge I’ve dealt with across every phase of reef keeping, and having the right cleanup crew makes a genuine difference. I’ve tried most of the common saltwater algae eaters in my 125-gallon and know which ones actually earn their spot. and which ones cause more trouble than they solve.

Today’s post is about Algae eaters for your saltwater tank. Before we get into our list of 7 best, I want to talk about the 3 key steps in implementing an algae control system. When most people have an outbreak, the first thing one might do is buy livestock to fix the issue. However, livestock is not the fix, but actually the control. Livestock controls algae and prevention measures fix outbreaks. Knowing prevention, the types of algae, and how to combat them will ensure that you implement the right algae control measures in your tank

Step 1 – Know How To Prevent Outbreaks

The first step in controlling algae is preventative. Virtually all algae comes from the following sources:

Age of tank
Excessive Nutrients – Phosphates, Nitrates Silicates, TDS in source water
Poor lighting
Hitchhiked from live rock or coral purchases

Age of tank is usually the first issue. If your tank is establishing or just got out of its cycle, it is very common to get nuisance algae. Usually this starts with diatoms and then moves to hair algae and red slime. You get outbreaks because your bacteria cycle is still maturing. As you perform proper maintenance, your nutrient levels should stabilize. Stay patient if you are a newcomer experiencing your first bloom

What Causes It?

To answer the question about what does algae eat, let’s talk about excessive nutrients. The most common cause of Saltwater Aquarium algae outbreaks is poor source water. Water from the tap can be filled with silicates, phosphates, and nitrates that make nuisance algae thrive in your tank. Algae thrives no this nutrients as this is their food source and they will grow to consume these nutrients in your tank. These nutrients will then get “trapped” in the algae, meaning you will not be able to remove these nutrients out the system until you remove both the algae and the source of these nutrients.

After learning about the age of the tank, the second question I also ask hobbyist when they have an outbreak is where their source water is coming from. If you are not using an RODI System ((Please note, this post includes affiliate links for which I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase), you will have outbreaks unless your source water is very pure. Even with an RODI system, one can still have outbreaks and sometimes this is due to not replacing your RODI parts timely.

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LiquaGen – 5-Stage RODI

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This brings us to the next part with nutrient control – maintenance. You need to have a proper maintenance schedule in order to prevent high nutrient levels. This means water changes, cleaning equipment, changing light bulbs if you use T5 fluorescent lighting, having a proper protein skimmer, and not overfeeding or overstocking your tank.

Poor lighting is another factor that is usually fixed easily. This is common with T5 fluorescent lighting as the spectrum and intensity degrades as the lights age. If you have older bulbs, you should replace them with fresh bulbs. If you have a light fixture that does not produce the correct spectrum, you should consider getting an appropriate reef light.

Hitchhiking algae is our last culprit. Macroalgae, Byropsis, and Macro Algae are usually the types of algae that make their way through Hitchhiking. You can avoid most of these issues by investing in dry rock instead of live rock. This leaves corals as your only source of introduction. You can limit your exposure by purchasing frags, inspecting corals before purchase, and only purchasing from reputable local or online stores.

Dry Rock

This dry rock from ARC reef is mined from the Earth and is completely eco-friendly

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Prevention is the first step in algae control. Our next stop is knowing your algae.

Step 2 – Know What Type You Are Dealing With

When combating algae, you need to know what type of algae you are dealing with, how they come about, and how to limit or eliminate them. I will be going over the following algae below:

Diatoms
Dinoflagellates
Film Algae
Red Slime (Cyanobacteria)
Hair Algae
Bubble Algae
Bryopsis Algae
Calerpa Algae

Diatoms

Diatoms are brown algae that usually appear when a tank has just completed its cycle. They can cover sand, rocks, pumps, glass…pretty much everything. They are unsightly, but harmless in your tank. Diatoms feed off silicates. You can prevent silicate by using an RODI system and keeping up with the maintenance. Even with proper maintenance though, they can still appear via additives, salt mixes, or using improper sand.

Film

This is a common algae in a tank that grows due to nutrients in the tank. They are not harmful, just unsightly and easily removed manually or eaten by algae eaters.

Dinoflagellates

Also known as brown slime algae. This type of algae is some nasty stuff. They release toxins, will kill sensitive inverts like snails, and will feed off what they kill. Eliminating them in the tank requires a mult-prong approach involving granular activated carbon, black out periods, raising pH, reduced feedings, and manual removal. It’s not an outbreak to be taken lightly. More on How To Get Rid of Dinoflagellates.

Red Slime (Cyanobacteria)

Often called algae, this is actually bacteria. Cyanobacteria is another common nuisance that pops up in a newer tank. While not harmful to fish, they are harmful to corals – especially soft corals. It is something that will always been present in your system. It is all about nutrient control with Cyano. The key parameters to control are phosphate (below 0.05 ppm) and nitrates (below 10 ppm). Nutrients can be locked in the red slime, so a common frustration point with reefers is their parameters test well, but the cyano is holding the nutrients until they are removed.

Other factors are lighting and low flow. Redirect power heads and wavemakers or add more to eliminate dead spots. If the tank is overtaken, you can manually remove by siphoning the cyanobacteria. Chemical options would include using Chemi-Clean ,which can be used as a good way of wiping out Cyano while address the long-term issue.

Treats Cyanobacteria

Chemi-Clean

This solution from Boyd Enterprises efficiently treats cyanobacteria outbreaks

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Hair

Hair Algae is an algae that thrives on nutrients. Having high phosphates and nitrates will cause this algae to thrive. Like Cyanobacteria, it can always be present in the tank, but can be controlled and virtually eliminated with good maintenance practices and algae eaters. You can also purposely grow in a container filtration unit like an Algae Scrubber where it can be used to keep phosphates and nitrates low and pH stable at night.

Bubble

Bubble algae is usually introduced in the tank as a hitchhiker from either purchased live rock or corals. The best way to prevent it is to carefully inspect all of your rock or coral purchases for this hitchhiker. If you do end up with bubble algae, work to eliminate it early. You can manually remove it (but be careful about popping the bubbles or you will have it reproduce everywhere) or enlist algae eaters that specialize in eating this algae.

Bryopsis

Bryopsis Algae is a fern-like algae that usually gets introduced in your aquarium from live rock or purchased corals. It is very difficult to get rid of and there are all sorts of horror stories about this algae. This is an algae unfortunately that many algae eaters will not touch.

The best way to get rid of it is to raise your magnesium levels using a supplement like Kent Marine Tech M. You would want to increase your magnesium to the 1500 levels gradually over a week and keep it consistent until the Bryopsis is wiped out.

Kent Marine Magnesium

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Calerpa

Calerpa Algae is another algae that finds its way to your tank as a hitchhiker. It is another algae that is difficult to get rid of, but there are algae eaters that will happily eat away at this algae. If it has over taken your tank, it is best to manually remove what you can and then implement the help of an algae eating crew to keep it contained. This algae, like many others on this list thrive on nutrients so keeping phosphates and nitrates low will limit its growth rate.

Chaetomorpha

Chaetomorpha Algae is a single celled algae that is actually used as a beneficial type of algae in many saltwater aquarium setups. While not considered a nuisance algae, I listed this on here to saw that not all algae is bad algae. Chaetomorpha algae is usually placed in a sump and grown in a separate section of the sump to help control nitrates and phosphates.

While it is fine in a sump, they do happen to hitch hike in the display aquarium when you purchase corals or live rock. They can quick grow out of hand if they grow in your display tank if there is nothing in the tank to eat it and may require manual removal to keep it in check.

Step 3 – Add Them To Your Aquarium

We have gone through preventative measures and identification. Since algae is always present in our systems, you should implement some algae eaters to control the algae that does make itself present. Step 1 and 2 were guides on how to prevent an outbreak. Step 3 is about how to implement the best crew to control the algae that does show up. Check out our video from our YouTube channel.

Below are the list of my recommended algae eaters:

The Top 7 Control Livestock for Saltwater Tanks

Let’s go into further detail about each algae eater. Below is a short description of each of your crew member candidates.

Name	Type	Link
Nassarius Snail	Diatoms	Click For Best Price Buy on SWF.com
Cerith Snail	Cyano, Hair, Film	Click For Best Price Buy on SWF.com
Mexican Turbo Snail	Cyano, Diatoms, Film, Macro Algae	Click For Best Price Buy on SWF.com
Tailspot Blenny	Film, Hair	Click For Best Price
Kole Tang	Film	Click For Best Price
FoxFace	Hair, Macro Algae	Click For Best Price
Emerald Crab	Bubble, Hair	Click For Best Price

1. Nassarius Snail

Best For Diatoms

Nassarius Snail

Best For Diatoms

Nassarirus Snails excel at keeping your sandbed clean and algae free!

Click For Best Price Buy on SWF.com

Stats:

Temperament – Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size – 10 gallons
Size – 1/2″
Care Level – Easy
Target Algae – Any nutrient reliant algae

Contrary to belief, the Nassarius Snail does not directly eat algae. So why would it make this list? Because as we had discussed earlier, algae control is mostly about nutrient control. These are savaging snails that do an incredible job of eating detritus in the tank, keeping your nutrients in check, and algae at bay. They do most of their work in the sand, so they will only be compatible with tanks with a substrate.

2. Cerith Snails

Small But Mighty!

Cerith Snail

A Workhorse Algae Eater

Ceriths are small, but in large numbers do a great job at removing algae from rocks and glass

Click For Best Price Buy From SWF.com

Stats:

Temperament – Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size – Any
Size – 1″
Care Level – Easy
Target Algae – Cyano, Hair Algae, Film

The Cerith Snail makes it to our honorable mention. Many reefers would put these to the top of their list, but I have it an honorable mention for a few reasons. The first is that they can reproduce in the aquarium and you can have dozens of snails in a short period of time.

The second is their size – they tend to be pretty small which can be a bad thing if they get sucked into your overflow box and cause some issues with plumbing.

Aside from that though they are a great hybrid cleaner. They clean on the rock, glass, and sand. They all are most active at night so they tend to avoid getting eating by fish who like to snack on snails. Their small size makes them ideal for nano reef tanks. They are also dirt cheap to get in large qualities. Just check out this deal on 100 cerith snails.

3. Mexican Turbo Snail

Great For Larger Tanks!

Mexican Turbo Snail

A Work Horse Algae Eater

Great for larger tanks, the Mexican Turbo Snail eats most types of algae in your aquarium

Click For Best Price Buy From SWF.com

Stats:

Temperament – Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size – 10 gallons
Size – 2″
Care Level – Easy
Target Algae – Cyanobacteria, Diatoms, Film Algae, Macro Algae

The Mexican Turbo Snail is the ultimate reef snail for larger tanks. It will mow down several types of nuisance algae, grow sizable, and have the ability to flip itself over. Its shell shape makes it difficult for crabs to eat it as well. It does not take many of these snails to establish a good clean up crew in a tank. Every reefer should consider these snails. The only downfall with them is they get large. For small saltwater aquariums, I would recommend you go with Ceriths instead.

4. TailSpot Blenny

Great For Small Tanks

Tailspot Blenny

Great For Small Tanks

Great personality and algae eater. The Tailspot Blenny is an entertaining addition to any saltwater tank.

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Temperament – Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size – 10 gallons
Size – 2 1/2″
Care Level – Easy
Target Algae – Film Algae, Hair Algae

Most hobbyists think about the lawnmower blenny when it comes to an algae eating blenny. I tend to shy away from the lawnmower primarily due to its max size of 5″. The Tailspot Blenny has all the algae eating characteristics of the lawnmower blenny but in a smaller, more colorful, and more peaceful package. They have great personalities and are a great addition to your tank.

5. Kole Tang

Great For Large Tanks

Kole Tang

A Hardy Tang

Hardy and medium sized, the Kole Tang is great at removing film algae from rocks and glass

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Temperament – Semi-aggressive
Minimum Tank Size – 70 gallons
Size – 7″
Care Level – Moderate
Target Algae – Film Algae

The Kole Tang makes our list for a few reasons. It is one of the smaller tangs you can put in your aquarium, which means that those with a medium sized tank can house them. They tend to be less aggressive in smaller aquariums than yellow, purple, or scopas tangs.

Kole tangs will eat film algae though in some cases will eat hair and macro algae. For those with larger tanks, a yellow tang or a foxface/rabbitfish would be a viable candidate for hair and macro algae. If you have a much larger tank mixing both a bristle tooth tang like a Kole and a zebra species tang or foxface/rabbitfish make for a solid algae control team.

6. Foxface

Hair Algae Specialist

Foxface

Hair Algae Specialist

Hardy, peaceful and full of personality – the Foxface is a wondering addition to any tank.

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Temperament – Semi-aggressive
Minimum Tank Size – 75 gallons
Size – 8″
Care Level – Moderate
Target Algae – Hair, Macro Algae

The best companion for an algae destroying fish duo is a Kole Tang and Foxface. The Foxface is an amazing algae eater in saltwater aquariums. They will chew up any hair algae in the aquarium and will happily eat most macro algae. Combining them with a Kole tang covers more algae you will face in a saltwater tank. It is also one of the most the hardy herbivores you can purchase for a saltwater aquarium. Their thick slime coats make them very resistant to ich and bacterial infections.

There are some significant drawbacks with a Foxface however. The main one is they are venomenous. They have spikes that can leave a nasty sting, though not as dangerous as a lionfish or scorpion fish. They get pretty large at 8″ and grow very fast. They also can develop a taste for some corals and inverts – specifically clams. If a Foxface gives you pause, a Scopas Tang could be a good alternative. A Scopas is the most hardy Zebrasoma species tang you can buy.

7. Emerald Crab

Bubble Algae Destroyer

Emerald Crab

Bubble Algae Destroyer

The emerald crab is a great scavenger and bubble algae eater

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Temperament – Semi-aggressive
Minimum Tank Size – 10 gallons
Size – 2 1/2″
Care Level – Easy
Target Algae – Bubble Algae, Hair Algae, controls nutrient reliant algae

The emerald crab is well known for eating bubble algae. It is a scavenger that will feed on uneaten foods and many types of nuisance algae. They are generally a peaceful invert, but can become an opportunistic eater if food sources are low. This invert should be part of any clean up crew in a reef tank. If you are going to get an emerald crab, ensure that your crab is guaranteed to eat bubble algae.

There are some clean-up crew sellers out there that guarantee their crabs will do so, and those are the ones you want. You will also want to make sure you purchase a female as they are typically less aggressive than males. A picture is shown below so you can tell the difference:

Which Have You Used?

So that’s my list folks. These 7 aquatic animals I feel are the best algae control livestock you can add to your saltwater aquarium. If you want to go the equipment route, I would highly recommend an algae turf scrubber for controlling all types of nuisance algae growth.

Did I miss any of your favorites in the list above? Share what I missed in the comments below and please share this post with others if you found it helpful. Thanks for reading!

January 15, 2020

Damselfish – Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

After running reef tanks for over two decades, damselfish are sold as starter fish to cycle saltwater tanks. Then they grow up, become territorial nightmares, and nobody catches them in a reef full of rock.

The damselfish is cheap, hardy, and aggressive enough to terrorize fish three times its size.

Damsels are easy to add and nearly impossible to remove. Think about that before you buy one.

Damselfish get a really bad rap in the saltwater aquarium hobby. They are highly aggressive, bite your hand if you put it in the tank, have been known to harass timid tank mates to death, and are a pain to remove if you have to take one out of your tank. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel.

So why would anyway ever consider a damsel for their fish tank let alone a reef tank? Well they are several:

They are an extremely hardy marine fish
They will eat just about anything you feed them
They have an exclusive blue color that is difficult to find
They are small and do not require a large tank
They are reef safe when introduced correctly

Back in the day before fishless cycling was common practice, the Damselfish was the fish you would use to cycle a saltwater tank because they could tolerate levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates that would kill off many other saltwater fish. Of course, nowadays one should never consider cycling with damselfish. However, they are extremely hardy in a tank and are a very forgiving fish for a novice.

Damselfish will eat just about anything you feed them in the tank. They do not require a specialized diet and will do just fine with any food you buy them.

Damselfish have a blue color that is very hard to find for a reef tank. Think about it for a second. How often have you thought about looking for a blue colored fish to compliment your coral reef tank setup? Let’s think about likely candidates:

Blue Tang AKA “Dory” – Very large, susceptible to ich
Powder Blue Tang – Notoriously difficult to keep and best for experts
Mandarin Goby – Notoriously difficult to keep from starving to death and will devastate a micro-fauna population in a smaller tank
Large Angelfish – Not reef safe and get very large
Coral Beauty Angelfish – Hit or miss on reef safe; intermediate level fish
Blue Reef Chromis – The most suitable candidate, but get 5″ long and should be grouped

Wow, that was pretty quick. So unless you have a large tank or pretty skilled at reefing already, your options are pretty limited for a blue fish.

Most Damsels stay very small. Only a few members get large and should be avoided for a community tank as they get very aggressive. Their compact size makes them attractive for smaller tanks, especially those under 75 gallons.

Damselfish are reef safe, but have to be introduced in the correct manner. This means that you have to introduce them last and with the right tankmates, I’ll get into this in detail later in this article.

So we have established the reasons why a Damselfish is a good candidate for your saltwater aquarium, but we have all heard the horror stories of their aggressive nature. Is there such thing as a sane Damselfish? The answer is – YES!

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

Most damselfish articles tell you to avoid the whole family. That misses the point. Chrysiptera damsels are genuinely different from the three-stripe damsels and domino damsels that give the group its reputation. After 25 years in the hobby and managing aquarium stores, the Chrysiptera species on this list are ones I have stocked and recommended repeatedly for reef tanks. They are not aggressive enough to be the classic damsel problem fish, and they are hardy enough to handle the conditions that challenge other reef species.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner-Friendly (Chrysiptera species only)

The Chrysiptera damsels covered in this guide are some of the hardiest and most beginner-accessible saltwater fish available. Hardy, reef-safe, and available as tank-bred. Not all damselfish are created equal, and these are the exceptions worth keeping.

Introducing the Chrysiptera Damselfish Species

Scientific Name	Chrysipertera
Common Name (Species)	Damselfish
Family	Pomacentridae
Origin	Indo Pacific
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Active
Lifespan	to 10 years
Temperment	Semi-aggressive
Tank Level	All Areas
Minimum Tank Size	30 Gallons
Temperature Range	73. 81 Degrees F
pH Range	8.1 – 8.4
Filtration/Flow Rate	All
Water Type	Saltwater
Breeding	Egg-layers, Difficult to breed
Compatibility	Semi-Aggressive tanks
Ok, For Reef Tanks?	Yes
Ok, For Inverts?	Mostly Yes

These Damsels comes from the family pomacentridae and hail from the indo Pacific. There is a genus in the Damselfish family called Chrysiperta. They are just as pretty as other other Damsel relatives but far more peaceful. They will bring the lively nature and action of Damsels without the aggressiveness.

I will break down 4 of the more colorful Chrysiperta Damsels that fit the exclusive Damsel blue that many hobbyist love:

Azure Damsel
Starck’s Damsel
Yellow-Tail Damsel
Springer’s Damsel

Azure – Tank Bred and tame

Max Size – 3″
Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

The Azure damselfish species is the most mild-mannered of the group. It has a wonderful disposition in the group and has rarely caused disruptions in aquariums. It is the best Damselfish to choose if you are considering one that is blue. In larger tanks, they have been kept in groups. It is as of the date of this post, the only Damselfish of the 4 that is available as tank bred.

Starck’s – The Beauty of the Group

Max Size – 4″
Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

The Starck is more aggressive than the Azure but still far less than many other Damsels. It has a brilliant blue body with a broad yellow band running along the top. It can almost pass as an Angelfish to a layperson’s eye. Unfortunately the Starck’s Damsel is a hard Damselfish to find available part of the year and commanding a price tag equivalent to Dwarf Angelfish like Flame Angels.

Yellow Tail – The “Dory” Substitute

Max Size – 3″
Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

This is the most aggressive of the four and has the most horror stories behind it. It’s on the list for two reasons. First, many of the stories I have seen have been involving timid saltwater fish or where the yellow tail was placed in first and established its territory. Both are incorrect ways on how to introduce a Damselfish. Second, the its yellow tail fin and color is often mistaken as a “Baby Dory” by children and with it’s hardiness can withstand a novice hobbyist or parent purchasing a “Dory” (AKA Blue Tang) for their children.

I personally have recommend this marine fish to potential Blue Hippo Tang buyers along with a lot of education about the care and maintenance required to successfully keep saltwater fish. The suggestion was so common, that I actually was interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with this aquarium fish.

Springer’s – The Coral Pest Slayer

Max Size – 3″
Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

Of all the damsels on this list, the Springer’s Damsel offers pest control abilities. This Indo Pacific fish is well known for wiping out flatworms in a reef tank, their ability to wipe out pests have been compared with Wrasses like Six-line and Malnanrus Wrasses. The great thing about a Springer’s damsel is they are just as docile as Azures so you can get a small pest control fish without the attitude of a Six-line Wrasse in a small system! In a smaller system they cannot be beat for pest control. Keep in mind though as they mature they will look at your hands as threats to their territory and will likely attack your hands!

So I have outlined the four best Damselfish. Now let’s break down the best practices for adding a Damsel to your tank.

Reality Check

Even Chrysiptera damsels are still damsels. They are territorial, they will claim a cave or corner of the tank, and they do not appreciate fish that look similar to them being added afterward. The species on this list are significantly calmer than classic damsels, but they are not passive fish. They will hold territory, and they will assert themselves if the stocking order goes wrong or the tank is too sparse.

Best Practices for Adding Them

I’m going to break this done into 3 parts:

Introduce them last
Have other semi-aggressive fish in the tank
Have lots of rockwork

Damselfish are often going to be the most aggressive marine fish you will add to your tank. Because of this, you need to introduce them last into your tank where territory has already been established by your other tankmates. This will prevent your damsel from becoming the alpha fish in your tank.

Semi-aggressive fish need to be in the tank in order to be successful in the tank. If you have timid tank mates like firefish, damsels should be avoided. Here is a quick list of semi-aggressive fish that suit a damsel’s nature:

Tangs
Dwarf Angelfish
Clownfish
Dottybacks
Basslets like the Royal Gramma
Semi-Aggressive wrasses like Malnarus. Caution with flasher wrasses
Bottom Dwelling Gobies

Rockwork is the third factor on our list. You are likely going to have a lot of rockwork if you have a reef aquarium so you will likely be okay. This is mostly a consideration if you have a fish-only setup.

When selecting damselfish for your aquarium, you pretty much won’t go wrong with these guys if you’re looking for a community setup. Just make sure you have a tank that is suited for the species of fish you are getting, add them last, and pay attention to tankmates.

Hard Rule

Always add Chrysiptera damsels last. Adding them before other fish in an established tank creates a territory problem that is nearly impossible to fix without removing rockwork. Add them after your other fish are settled and you eliminate most of the aggression risk.

Care Guide

The damselfish on this list, with the exception of the Starcki Damsel, will grow to about 2-3 inches in length. The Starcki will be a bit bigger topping out at 4 inches. Give their more aggressive nature, it is best to keep them in a 30 gallon aquarium or larger with length being a major factor as damsels tend to claim an area of the tank as their own.

Water temperature should remain at 73 to 81 Fahrenheit, which pH levels at 8.1 to 8.4 and salinity at 1.020 – 1.026. Open spaces are ideal for them as damsels are open swimmers. The rocks you keep in the tank should have plenty of hiding places to reduce aggression.

Best Food For Them

What makes damselfish great in saltwater tanks is that they tend to not be very picky eaters, but doesn’t mean that you should just feed the first fish food you find at the grocery store! Damselfish should be offered a complete diet. Let’s talk about the hierarchy of saltwater aquarium food.

Best – Fresh/Raw Food, Enriched Frozen Food
Better – Fried Dried + Nutrient Soaked Food
Good – Enriched Flake/Pellet Food

The Best Frozen Food for Them – LRS Nano

There are not many of us in this hobby who will go make fresh seafood for our marine fish. There are videos available on how to do this, but I’m going to assume it’s just not realistic for you to make your own. It’s a pretty smelly process! The next best option would be live black worms if you can somehow get it locally and grow a culture, but again your significant other may not be a fan of you keeping worms around the house or in the fridge ;-).

So this brings us to frozen food. Without a doubt, LRS Nano frozen is the best frozen food you can get on the market. It is only available at your local fish store so if you are fortunate to have a store that carries it buy it today! The rest of the items are available online with Amazon (Affiliate Links Below) being the best way to get them quickly.

The Best Freeze Died Food for Them – Fried Dried California Blackworms + Selcon

Freeze Dried Blackworms

California black worms have been praised by long-term reefers as a great source of nutrition and the most pickiest of fish will eat them. At least for the live black worms, but as I stated before live is tough to get and this is the next best thing you can get at a reasonable price. These freeze dried California black worms are ready to go for your Damselfish to eat

It is highly recommended to soak them in Selcon prior to feeding. The great thing about freeze dried food is they take vitamin soaks like Selcon very well so you know your fish are getting a vitamin rich diet!

Selcon

A vitamin enhancer that works great in freeze dried and frozen foods. A great choice to boost nutrition in brine shrimp, mysis, and blackworms

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

The Best Flake Food for Them – Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flake Food

While you can make a very good case for pellet food, in our experience damselfish have an easier time eating flake food given their smaller mouths. Pellets are a more appropriate food for their large cousins, Clownfish. What makes Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes stand out is their food contains probiotics. The mix of the flake is also very comprehensive containing highly quality ingredients like squid, spirulina, plankton, krill, and mussel. The product is made in the USA and it’s highly palatable formula are great for finicky eaters and avoids the digestion/nutrition issue common with low quality flake foods.

Contains Probiotics!

Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes

One of the better flake foods available for marine fish today

Buy On Amazon

Buy On Chewy

Who Grows Most With This Fish

Chrysiptera damsels suit beginner and intermediate saltwater keepers who want a hardy, colorful fish that can handle the conditions of a new or maturing reef tank. If you want a reef-safe fish that is tank-bred, affordable, and can coexist with corals and most common saltwater community fish, these are among the best options available. Experienced reefers who want to fill a small territory role without the aggression of a larger damsel species also find these a practical choice.

Is a Chrysiptera Damsel Right for You?

Good Fit If:

You want a hardy, reef-safe damsel that is significantly calmer than the classic problem species
You are stocking a new reef and want a fish that can handle the process while being easy to keep long-term
You can add the damsel last, after all other fish are established
Your tank is 30 gallons or larger with established rockwork and territory options

Avoid If:

You plan to add the damsel first and stock other fish around it (territory conflict guaranteed)
You already have another damsel species in the tank (they will fight)
You want a fish that is completely passive in a community reef (all damsels will hold territory)

Closing Thoughts

Not all damsels are the same fish. The Chrysiptera species on this list are the exceptions in a family known for aggression, and they deserve to be treated that way. Add them last, choose the right tank mates, and these small, colorful fish will hold their place in a reef tank for years without creating the problems that made damsels infamous in the first place.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

January 6, 2020

Best Reef Safe Fish – Top 11 (That Won’t Eat Corals)

When going to a local fish store (LFS), it can be always tempting to impulse buy a fancy looking fish that you have never seen or heard of before. Listed below are best reef safe fish fish that are best suited for virtually any community and reef setup. Equipment is important for this hobby, but proper fish selection is critical for success. I always would find it frustrating to see LFS sell fish that are for advanced fish keepers or not suited to the tank of the buyer (*cough* Tangs). In a later post, I will go through the top 10 saltwater aquarium fish you should avoid.

My Criteria For Selecting These Fish

The fish on my list selected using the following criteria:

Does not require a large tank (more than 4 feet tank)
Well known for being reef safe (won’t nip at corals)
Not overly aggressive (e.g. – Damsels)
Hardy fish or fish that is available as tank bred
Does not require a specialized diet

Reef Safe Fish For Everyone

Here are our candidates. I’ll go over more details below. This is a quick reference point for you.

In a hurry? I recommend Tank Raised Clownfish for any reef tank!

Picture	Name	Minimum Tank Size	Link
Editor’s Choice	Tank Raised Clownfish	20 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Banggai Cardinal	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Orchid Dottyback	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Royal Gramma	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Blue Green Chromis	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Firefish	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Six Line Wrasse	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Watchman Goby	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Midas Blenny	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	McCosker’s Wrasse	55 Gallons	Click For Best Price
	Azure Damselfish	30 Gallons	Click For Best Price

The Top 11 For Any Saltwater Aquarium (2023 Update)

Let’s dive into each fish and their profiles. These reef aquarium fishes will be suitable for virtually any saltwater aquarium.

1. Tank Raised Clownfish (Ocellaris or Percula Species)

Editor’s Choice

Tank Raised Clownfish

Best Choice For Reef Tanks!

Clownfish are hardy, full of personality, and are safe for all corals. They are an icon for any saltwater tank

Click For Best Price Purchase ORA Clownfish

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 20 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive

The Ocellaris clownfish is the industry’s most popular saltwater aquarium fish. With the explosion of the tank raised fish industry, all sorts of designer clownfish are now available. Ocellaris clownfish can be kept in pairs as long as you buy two when young or purchase one larger and one smaller. They are known to spawn in captivity and will host corals. They are 100% reef safe and hardy fish Quite simply, a reef tank is incomplete without a pair!

2. Banggai Cardinalfish

Peaceful Fish

Banggai Cardinal

A peaceful and easy going fish. They are very hardy and openly breed in aquariums. Available as tank bred

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive

Peaceful tank mates, great personality and striking black lines make up this iconic saltwater aquarium fish. They can also be kept in pairs, will spawn in captivity, and are very hardy. The Banggai Cardinalfish is the poster child of how hobbyist, industry professionals, and scientists came together to support sustainable production of a marine species in captivity. They are excellent for reef tanks and will not bother any tank inhabitants or corals. They are ideal beginner saltwater fish.

3. Orchid Dottyback

Orchid Dottyback

Tank bred and very hardy. This is the most mild-mannered dottyback you can purchase

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

Yes, I know this is a bad picture–but the fish is awesome. Dottybacks in general get a bad rap. This is mostly due to the fact that most dottybacks can channel their inner damsel and create havoc in your reef tank.

Fortunately, the Orchid Dottyback is not one of those. They have a mild temper in a community reeftank and are the great tankmates. It is not recommended to keep these in pairs unless you can purchase a mated pair. There is no easy way to identify the differences between a male and female, and they do not change gender like clownfish. Nevertheless, they are a great saltwater aquarium fish. They are reef safe and actually do a good job at eradicating bristle worms from an aquarium.

4. Royal Gramma

Royal Gamma

Amazing colors and easy to care for. The royal gamma will not bother any coral or invert in your aquarium

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

A striking blend of colors and personality make up this beautiful saltwater aquarium fish. The Royal Gramma will try to be the boss in your tank, but will generally be kept in check by clownfish, tangs, and angelfish. They will be aggressive to similar bodied fish and their own kin. You cannot keep both a Dottyback or Royal Gramma in the same reef aquarium so pick the one you prefer. I lean towards to the Orchid Dottyback because they are available as tank bred. The Gramma is more mild mannered than the Orchid. They will not bother any corals

5. Blue Green Chromis

Blue Green Chromis

A schooling reef fish. These are great in larger numbers to see their schooling nature

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3.5″
Temperament – Peaceful

The Blue Green Chromis hardy long-lived saltwater fish that will school together. They are the neon-tetra of saltwater aquarium fish. You cannot go wrong putting this fish in your tank.

6. Firefish

Great For Nano Reefs

Firefish

Peaceful and great in smaller fish. Make sure your tank is covered. They are jumpers

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 10 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Peaceful

The Firefish is the go to saltwater fish for nano tanks. Peaceful, quiet, striking colors, and very hardy. They can be kept in pairs and generally the pair will be together, but it is best to purchase them young to increase your chances of success.

They are timid fish that can be harassed by more aggressive tank mates. They are model citizens in a reef aquarium. They are safe for all corals and invertebrates.

7. Six Line Wrasse

Great For Coral Pests

Six Line Wrasse

A coral pest eliminator that will not harm corals. They are on the aggressive side so add them last

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Semi-aggressive

Wrasses are very active fish. The Sixline Wrasse is no exception. A reef safe and hardy saltwater aquarium fish. The only downfall with this wrasse is they are a on the aggressive side and will harass easily intimidated fish. It’s best to keep them with other semi-aggressive fish like clownfish and to add them last to avoid any tank drama. They do an amazing job at removing various pests from corals while still remaining reef safe.

8. Yellow Watchman Goby

Great With Pistol Shrimps

Watchman Goby

A tank bred goby that has a symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimp. Hardy and won’t bother any corals

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Peaceful

The Yellow Watchman Goby is considered one of the best saltwater aquarium fish for beginners. They can be paired with a pistol shrimp and they two will form a pair. If you are attempting a pair, ensure that you have at least a 2″ sand bed available and purchase a small shrimp like a candy cane shrimp. Seeing the interaction with watchman goby and a pistol is a joy. The goby works to keep the shrimp safe which the shrimp does it’s work on the sand and gather food.

If you decide not to pair them with a shrimp, they are still a great fish to have on their own and readily eat any prepared food.

9. Midas Blenny

Midas Blenny

A beautiful fish with a unique swimming style. They are excellent for any coral setup and are very active in the aquarium

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 6″
Temperament – Peaceful

The Midas Blenny is the perfect Blenny. Colorful, great personality, and completely reef safe. Most hobbyist who have them state they are their favorite saltwater fish in the tank. They have no swim bladder so they are consistently moving and have an eel like look when swimming.

10. McCosker’s Wrasse

McCosker's Wrasse

A lovely and peaceful community wrasse. The males like to flash their fins. They are 100% reef safe

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 55 Gallons
Max Size – 3″
Temperament – Peaceful

The McCoosker’s Wrasse is only fish on the list that requires a tank larger than 3 feet. It is generally encouraged to keep them in groups as the male will perform colorful displays to the females in the tank. However, you will need to introduce the female first or introduce as a group. They do change genders like clown fish.

They are one of lesser aggressive tank mates, so if you are going to keep them, make sure they are one of the first saltwater aquarium fish you put in your tank. These wrasse fish are known to be jumpers so a cover is recommended.

11. Azure Damselfish

A Sane Damselfish!

Azure Damselfish

The Safest Damsel For Reef Tanks

Damsels get a bad rep. This one bunks the trend if introduced last. They are the least aggressive damsels you can add

Click For Best Price

Stats:

Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
Max Size – 2.5″
Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

Also known as the Kupang Damsel, this is easily the most controversial fish on my list. Here me out before you react though. Not all damselfish are horrible. You can check our damselfish article for more details about it. Among all the damels available in our hobby, the Azure is the best option for a community reef fish.

They will still be careful considerations to be made to ensure you have success with their more aggressive nature. If you take the right steps, they make the cut on my list. You cannot have more than one of these per 18 inches of reef tank length as they will bully each other to death. They are great color additions as they contrast a number of reef aquarium fishes with their blue colors. They also look amazing under actinic reef lighting.

Honorable Mentions

These fish could have made the list, but we ran out of room to talk about them in the article

Chalk bass – great fish, hard to find in stores
Swallowtail Angelfish – reef safe, moderate difficulty
Engineer Goby

Fish To Avoid

Powder Blue Tang – Reef safe, but not hardy
Leopard Wrasse – Does bad in captivity
Mandarin Goby – Tends to strive in a tank unless it’s large and full of copepods
Maroon Clownfish – Aggressive as an adult

What Does The Term Mean?

You would be surprised being on this post how confusing this term can be. I’m going to define this for you so you can determine how best you want to build your reef.

What Does It Mean In The Hobby?

The general term reef safe means that the fish you purchase will not brother corals and other sensitive invertebrates. Because the general term means the fish won’t bother corals and inverts, you will get a lot of “with caution” in our trade. To help, Let’s break it down further with fish that won’t eat corals and fish that won’t eat inverts.

The Ones That Won’t Eat Corals

To me, this is what I define as reef safe to truly be. These fish will not eat corals and do not pose a danger to them. The following fish species are generally not going to eat corals:

Damselfish
Clownfish
Most tangs
Most blennies
Cardinalfish
Most wrasse fish
Gobies

The Ones That Won’t Eat Corals, But Will Eat Inverts

The list above are the usual fish species you will see listed as safe, but we can take it even further. These fish will not eat corals, but may pose a danger to inverts like shrimp and small fish.

Lionfish
Reef safe triggerfish
Marine bettas
Snowflake eels
Hawkfish
Hogfish
Groupers like the Miniatus

Notice that our list got a lot bigger. Yes, you can get pretty creative when you open up your reef tank to fish that will eat inverts, but will not bother your corals. You will need a larger reef tank to house this fish, but you can add more color and more aggression to the tank with these choices. If you don’t believe me, check out this video by Robs Koi Pond. His snowflake eel is happily house in his reef tank.

FAQS

Which Ones Go Well With Corals?

Generally any fish that does not have a taste for corals are your best bet. These types of fish would generally be damsels, clownfish, most tangs, blennies, cardinal fish, most wrasses, and gobies.

Note when it comes to the term reef safe – there are two types. Reef safe meaning they will not eat corals and another classification meaning they will not eat inverts like crabs and shrimp like cleaner shrimp.

Knowing this, there are some fish like Lionfish that will happily eat small fish and small inverts, but will not bother corals.

Which Is The Most Peaceful Saltwater Species?

Most blennies and gobies are considered the most peaceful saltwater fish you can buy. Cardinalfish are also a great choice. Some fairy wrasses are also considered timid and will not bother most fish.

Which Is The Easiest Saltwater Species To Keep?

In general, clownfish are going to be the easiest and least demanding fish you can keep in a saltwater aquarium. They are semi-aggressive, but are generally hardy and come tank bred. They are reef safe and are small enough to be comfortable in most saltwater tank sizes.

What Are Your Recommendations?

I created this list to help starters and I know I did exclude a few excellent choices. What saltwater fish do you think make a great start for a saltwater aquarium newbie? Share it with us in the comment section below or you can read more about our blog here. I’m sure a lot of new and potential fish keepers would love to hear your feedback :).

P.S. – Want more info on saltwater reef tanks? Check out my post title 55 saltwater reef tank words of wisdom

January 3, 2020

The Best Koi Food For 2026 – Reviewed And Tested

Koi food is not interchangeable. What you feed your koi directly determines how fast they grow, how vivid their colors stay, and how well they fight off disease. Cheap food produces dull fish with compromised immune systems. The right food, fed correctly through every season, produces the koi you actually wanted when you bought them.

The bag of pond pellets at your local hardware store is not koi food. It is filler with a koi picture on it.

I’ve worked with koi and pond fish for over 25 years. I’ve seen what happens to collections fed on bargain-bin pellets for a few seasons and what quality nutrition does for the same fish long-term. The difference is not subtle. This guide covers the 7 best koi foods on the market in 2026, when to use each one, and what most keepers get wrong about seasonal feeding.

What People Get Wrong About Koi Food

The most common mistake is treating koi food like a single year-round product. It isn’t. Koi are cold-blooded. Their metabolism is directly controlled by water temperature. In cold water, their digestive systems slow dramatically. Feed them a high-protein diet when water temperatures drop below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) and you’ve created a serious problem: undigested food rotting in their gut, leading to internal infections and bacterial issues.

The second mistake is buying whatever is cheapest per pound. Koi food is one area where ingredient quality has a direct, visible effect on your fish within weeks. Color, body condition, growth rate, and immune function all respond to nutrition. A slightly more expensive food that produces better health outcomes is almost always the more economical choice when you’re keeping fish that cost $50 to $300+ each.

Third mistake: overfeeding. Koi eat aggressively, which feels like they’re always hungry. They’re not. Feed only what they consume in 5 minutes, maximum. Uneaten food breaks down fast in warm water and your water quality tanks with it.

The Seasonal Feeding Hard Rule

This is not a suggestion. It’s how koi biology works.

Water below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C): Stop feeding entirely or switch to a wheat germ formula only. Koi cannot digest protein at these temperatures.
50 to 60 degrees F (10 to 16 degrees C): Wheat germ-based food only, once daily at most. Digestive systems are still slow.
60 to 75 degrees F (16 to 24 degrees C): Transition to your regular maintenance food. Feed 2-3 times daily.
Above 75 degrees F (24 degrees C): Full nutrition regime. This is peak growth season. If you want maximum color enhancement or growth, this is when high-protein and color-enhancement foods do their best work.

Ignoring this seasonal pattern is one of the leading causes of spring bacterial infections in koi ponds. Fish come out of winter already stressed, and hitting them with protein-heavy food before the water warms is a recipe for ulcers and internal disease.

Should You Upgrade Your Koi Food?

Yes, if:

Your koi colors have faded or look washed out compared to when you bought them
You’ve had repeated bacterial infections or ulcer problems
Growth has stalled despite good water quality
You’re feeding a generic pet-store pellet with no color enhancer listed in the ingredients

Stick with what you have if:

Your fish are thriving, colors are strong, and health is consistent
You’re already feeding a quality brand from this list

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice

Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

All Koi
Probiotics

Best Value

Blue Ridge Koi & Goldfish Food

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Koi and Goldfish
Premium quality

Budget Option

Hikari Gold

Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

All Koi
Readily available

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

After 25 years in this hobby, the single most impactful thing you can do for your koi’s color and health is switch to a quality food with actual color enhancers and probiotics, and feed it on a seasonal schedule. Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus is what I recommend for year-round maintenance. When water temps push above 75 degrees F and you want to push color, that’s when you bring in a food with Spirulina and Canthaxanthin. Two different tools for two different goals.

The Candidates: A Quick Comparison

Image	Product	Best For	Link
Editor’s Choice!	Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus	All seasons, all koi	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Blue Ridge Koi & Goldfish Food	Koi and goldfish, small pond fish	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Budget Option	Hikari USA Gold	All koi, color focus	Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco
	Blue Ridge Platinum Pro	Show koi, champion color	Click For Best Price

WHY THIS RANKING

Ranked on four criteria: ingredient quality (protein sources, color enhancers, probiotics), pellet design (floating is better for monitoring), seasonal flexibility, and value per pound for the quality delivered. Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus tops the list because it addresses immune function, growth, and color in a single formula that works year-round. The other spots reflect specific use cases where a different food outperforms.

The Top 7 Best Koi Foods Reviewed

1. Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus

Editor’s Choice!

Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus

The Best Koi Food

Formulated with Primalac probiotics, Vitamin C, and montmorillonite clay to support immunity, digestion, and color in all seasons.

Click For Best Price
Buy On Amazon

Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus is my top recommendation for koi keepers who want a single, reliable year-round food. The formula combines three things that most koi foods don’t bundle together: Primalac probiotics, stabilized Vitamin C, and montmorillonite clay.

The Primalac is what separates this from standard koi pellets. It delivers beneficial bacteria directly through food, supporting gut health and reducing the risk of ulcer disease, which is one of the most common and destructive bacterial problems in koi ponds. Ulcer disease is fast. A fish that looks fine Monday can have open wounds by Friday. A well-supported immune system from consistent probiotic feeding helps reduce that vulnerability significantly.

The montmorillonite clay is worth understanding. It binds toxins in the gut, aids mineral absorption, and has a documented effect on color enhancement, specifically deeper reds and cleaner whites. Those are the two colors judges and experienced keepers evaluate most critically on Gosanke koi. If you’re keeping Kohaku or Sanke and want to maintain color clarity, this ingredient matters.

This is the food I’d use as the backbone of any koi feeding program. It performs in all seasons and handles the immune support role most effectively during the high-stress transition periods of early spring and late fall.

2. Blue Ridge Koi and Goldfish Food

Best Value

Blue Ridge Koi & Goldfish Food

The Best Value in Koi Food

Premium ingredients at a lower price point. Ideal for ponds with mixed koi and goldfish, or for keepers who want quality without the premium cost.

Click For Best Price
Buy On Amazon

This is the right food for mixed ponds. If you’re keeping koi and pond goldfish together, this formulation suits both. The smaller floating pellets are accessible to fish of all sizes and the nutritional profile matches the Probiotic Plus baseline without the probiotic additive, which keeps the price lower.

The tradeoff is no color enhancer and no probiotic. For a healthy, established pond with no immune challenges, this is a perfectly solid maintenance food. For anyone dealing with bacterial history, color fade, or high-density stocking, the Probiotic Plus is worth the premium. Choose this if budget is a constraint and your fish are healthy. Choose Probiotic Plus if you want maximum immune support.

3. Hikari USA Gold

Budget Option

Hikari USA Gold

Budget Option

A widely available, color-enhancing food with Carotene. The best easily accessible option at pet store prices.

Buy On Amazon
Buy On Petco

Hikari Gold is the best option you’ll find at a standard pet store. It’s widely stocked at Petco and similar retailers, making it the most accessible quality koi food for most hobbyists. The 40% protein is solid, and the Carotene color enhancer genuinely works, especially on red-based patterns.

The soybean meal inclusion is a thoughtful formulation choice. Koi are omnivores but they digest plant protein more efficiently than pure animal protein. The soybean component improves overall digestibility, which means less waste breaking down in your pond.

Where it falls short: no probiotics, and Carotene alone is less effective than a Spirulina/Canthaxanthin combination for broad-spectrum color enhancement. This is a reliable budget option for healthy ponds. If you’re chasing show-quality color or managing an immune challenge, step up to Probiotic Plus or Platinum Pro.

4. Blue Ridge Platinum Pro

Premium Pick

Blue Ridge Platinum Pro

Champion Koi Food

Spirulina and Canthaxanthin color enhancement, 41% protein, Primalac probiotics. The food for serious koi collections and show fish.

Click For Best Price

Platinum Pro is the food for serious koi collections. The combination of Spirulina and Canthaxanthin is the most effective color enhancement stack available in a commercial koi food. Spirulina enhances red and orange pigmentation. Canthaxanthin deepens and intensifies existing color. Together, they work on both the intensity and the clarity of pattern color, which is exactly what competitive koi keepers and serious hobbyists want.

At 41% protein with Primalac probiotics included, this is a premium all-in-one food. The price reflects it. This is not the food for a casual garden pond with three pet koi. It’s the food for a collection you’ve invested significantly in, where color quality and health outcomes matter most.

5. Kaytee Premium Koi Food

Also Great

Kaytee Koi Fish Food

A well-balanced all-purpose pond food. Good for mixed ponds and keepers who want a simple maintenance option with natural color enhancers.

Buy On Amazon
Buy on Chewy

Kaytee is a practical, well-rounded option for keepers who want a simple year-round food that covers the basics. The 35% protein is on the lower end of this list but sufficient for maintenance feeding. Wheat germ and alfalfa meal provide natural color enhancement that works more subtly than synthetic carotenoids, which some keepers prefer for a more natural feeding approach.

This food is suitable for all pond fish sizes, which makes it useful for mixed ponds. It’s not a food I’d run as the sole diet for high-investment koi, but it’s a legitimate option for a casual garden pond where simplicity and cost matter more than maximum performance.

6. Mazuri Koi Pond Nuggets

Mazuri Koi Pond Nuggets

Stabilized Vitamin C and Spirulina algae. Best for koi 6 inches or larger. Zoo-grade formulation from a trusted nutritional brand.

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Mazuri is the zoo nutrition brand, which tells you something about the rigor behind their formulations. The Spirulina algae inclusion is a genuine color enhancer, and the stabilized Vitamin C protects against ulceration. The nugget format is smaller than most koi foods, making it a better fit for fish 6 inches and smaller, or as a supplemental food for a mixed-size pond.

The lower fat content (2.5% versus 6% for Blue Ridge options) makes this a leaner formula. For ponds in warmer climates where fish are active year-round, that can be an advantage. For colder climates where fish need fat stores heading into winter, you’d want to supplement with something richer in the fall.

7. Tetra Pond High Protein Growth

Tetra Pond High Protein Growth

Designed for young koi and growth phases. High protein formulation for ponds in peak summer feeding season.

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Tetra Pond High Protein Growth is a warm-season, high-growth-phase food. It’s designed for young koi and ponds during summer when water temperatures are at their peak and koi metabolism is running full speed. High protein formulations during peak season produce the most significant growth gains.

The caveat: don’t run this as a year-round food. High protein in cool water is the mistake I mentioned at the top of this guide. Use this food from late spring through early fall when water is above 70 degrees F (21 degrees C), then transition back to a maintenance or wheat germ formula as temperatures drop.

WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

Most koi keepers rotate between one or two foods all year long. The keepers with the best-looking, healthiest fish rotate intentionally: a probiotic-supported maintenance food as the backbone, a color-enhancement food as a supplement during peak growing season, and a wheat germ food as water temperatures drop. It’s not complicated, but it makes a significant difference in color vibrancy and disease resistance over a full year.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best koi food overall?

Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus. It covers immune support, growth, and color enhancement in a single formula that works year-round. For the money, nothing else on this list delivers as much in one bag.

How often should I feed my koi?

Two to three times daily during warm months (water above 60 degrees F / 16 degrees C). Once daily or less when water is between 50 and 60 degrees F (10 to 16 degrees C). Stop feeding entirely when water drops below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). Feed only what your koi consume in 5 minutes. Remove any uneaten food.

What food makes koi colors brighter?

Foods containing Spirulina, Canthaxanthin, Carotene, or Astaxanthin enhance color most effectively. Blue Ridge Platinum Pro uses Spirulina and Canthaxanthin together, which is the strongest color combination on this list. Hikari Gold uses Carotene and works well for red enhancement specifically. For the best color results, pair a quality color-enhancing food with clean water and quality genetics. No food fixes poor water quality.

Should koi food float or sink?

Floating. Koi are surface feeders and floating pellets allow you to see exactly how much they’re eating, monitor for abnormal feeding behavior, and remove uneaten food before it sinks and breaks down. Sinking pellets disappear below the surface and become a water quality problem. Every food on this list uses floating pellets for this reason.

What do I feed koi in winter?

Wheat germ-based food when water is between 50 and 60 degrees F (10 to 16 degrees C). Below 50 degrees F (10 degrees C), stop feeding entirely. Koi metabolism slows dramatically in cold water and undigested protein creates serious gut health issues. The wheat germ formula is easily digestible at low temperatures. Most quality brands make a specific cold-water or wheat germ formula for this purpose.

Closing Thoughts

The food you feed your koi is not a minor decision. It directly determines color quality, growth rate, immune resilience, and long-term health. A koi that costs $100 or $200 deserves food that actually supports it, not a bargain-bin pellet from the garden center.

My starting point for most ponds is Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus. It handles the immune support and maintenance functions that matter most across all seasons. If you’re running a serious collection and pushing for show-quality color, add Blue Ridge Platinum Pro during peak summer feeding. When temperatures drop, transition to wheat germ. That three-food rotation covers everything a koi needs across a full year.

For quality koi food direct from a specialty dealer, Next Day Koi carries the Blue Ridge lineup. Check out Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish for pond supplies and live food options to supplement your feeding program.

BUY OR SKIP?

If you’re currently feeding a generic pet store pellet with no listed color enhancer or probiotic, upgrade now. The difference shows within weeks. If you’re already on Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus or similar quality food and your fish look great, stick with what’s working. Don’t fix what isn’t broken, but do implement the seasonal feeding schedule if you haven’t already.

MARK’S TOP PICK

Blue Ridge Probiotic Plus. Year-round, all pond sizes, any collection level. The Primalac probiotic is what no other food in this price range delivers, and it’s the single ingredient that most meaningfully reduces bacterial disease risk across seasons.

January 1, 2020

Best Overflow Boxes – Hang On Overflows vs. Drilled and Best to Buy 2026 Reviews
Choosing between a hang-on overflow box and a drilled tank is one of the first real decisions you make when setting up a sump-based system. and it’s one I’ve thought about carefully on my own setups. A drilled tank is always my first choice for reliability, but hang-on boxes have gotten significantly better and are a legitimate option when drilling isn’t possible. Here’s how to think through the choice and which products I’d actually recommend.

Mark’s Expert Take | AquariumStoreDepot

Overflow boxes exist for one reason: you want a sump but you can’t or won’t drill your tank. They work. I won’t pretend otherwise. But they carry a real risk that most reviews gloss over: siphon failure. A siphon break at 2am means the water in your sump stops replenishing. If your return pump keeps running, it empties the sump and pumps air. I’ve seen setups flood floors over it. The Bean Animal overflow design solves this with a three-drain redundant system, but most hang-on-back boxes don’t use it. They run a single U-tube siphon with no backup. That’s the core tradeoff. One more thing people get wrong on sizing: the overflow’s GPH rating must exceed your return pump’s output at actual head height, not rated max. If your return pump moves 700 GPH at 5 feet of head and you buy a 600 GPH overflow, you will flood your display. Size up, always.

Mark Valderrama | AquariumStoreDepot.com | 25+ years in the hobby

For anyone who has a reef tank or freshwater tank where one is considering a cleaner setup, an overflow box is a major consideration. An overflow box is an entry point to setting up a sump. It filters out surface scum off the top of your aquarium and a properly installed overflow is a clean addition to your aquarium.

There are many overflow boxes out in the market, so what is the best overflow box? In today’s post I will go over the types of overflow boxes, hang-on versus drilled overflow boxes, the best hang on overflow box and drilled overflow boxes, and how to install an overflow on your aquarium. I hope at the end of the article you will become more informed and less scared about installing an overflow to create a primer aquarium equipment system.

Types of Overflow Boxes

There are generally three types of overflow boxes:
- Internal Hang-On Overflow Boxes
- Internal Built-In Overflow Boxes
- External Overflow Boxes
Internal hang-on overflow boxes are the simplest to install, but have the greatest risk of failure in your aquarium. The failure usually will occur with the loss siphon due to failure of the tubes, pump, or a power outage. They are usually the most affordable of the three and can be a good choice for those who do not want to drill their tank. The failure points of a hang-on overflow can be mitigated by building a larger sump.

Internal built-in overflow boxes are what you will usually see with Reef Ready Systems like a Red Sea Reefer. They are integrated with the tank and usually are built with a Durso style system, which can operate with only one hole but do not have the silent features of a Bean Animal Overflow. It is possible to get a custom aquarium with a bean animal internal built-in overflow, but you will typically pay a lot more then going with an internal hang-on overflow or drilling your tank and getting an external overflow box.

An external overflow box offer the most feature rich option on the market currently. You can easily find external overflow boxes with a bean animal setup and there are several models now that offer a slim overflow design, which leaves a very small footprint inside the aquarium. The main downfalls with an external overflow is that you cannot have a flush aquarium to the wall since the box will stick out, and you will have to drill your tank (or pay someone to drill your tank – more on that later in this post).
Why These Are Ranked #1

Not all overflow boxes fail the same way, and not all “GPH ratings” mean the same thing. Here’s what actually separates the top picks from the also-rans:
- Siphon reliability mechanism – Does it have a backup if the primary siphon loses prime? Single U-tube = one point of failure. Bean Animal = three-drain redundancy.
- Actual GPH vs. rated GPH – Manufacturers rate at zero head height. Your real-world flow at 4–5 feet of head is typically 40–60% of the box lid number. The CPR CS90 rated at 800 GPH delivers around 450 GPH at 5 feet. Know this before you buy.
- Dual-chamber vs. single-chamber design – Dual-chamber hang-ons (CPR style) isolate the siphon tube from the drain box, reducing air intrusion. Single-chamber boxes (most budget models) are noisier and more prone to losing prime.
- U-tube vs. Durso standpipe – U-tube siphons on hang-on boxes are the weak link. Durso standpipes (used in reef-ready systems) are quieter but still single-drain. Bean Animal kills both problems.
- Startup ease – Priming a hang-on overflow is the one task that trips up new hobbyists. Models with an Aqualifter pump port make this significantly more reliable than manual siphon-start methods.
The 3 Best Hang-On Overflow Box (2023 Reviews)

While my recommendation would be to purchase an external overflow or consider a reef ready tank, there are many people reading this post who may not have this option. Below would be my recommendations for a hang-on overflow box:

In a hurry? I recommend the CPR Overflow Box as a hang on option!
Editor’s Choice!

CPR Overflow Box

Adjustable Water Level

Failure Prevention Features

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Best Value

EShoops Overflow Box

Brand

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Budget Option

Blue Ocean Overflow Box

Great Price

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1. CPR – A Comprehensive External Unit With Failure Prevention Features

Editor’s Choice

CPR Overflow Box

Best Hang On Overflow Box

The CPR is known as the safest hang on overflow box to use. This is the best option if you are not able to drill your tank

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CPR is brand name that longtime reefers know. They are a small private company that has been around for ages pioneering one of the first successful hang-on protein skimmers on the market, the CPR Bakpak. Their overflow is another very successful product. This external overflow box is a step up to the Eshopps overflow box as it includes failure prevention options such as installing an aqua lifter pump.

The water level on the CPR Overflow Box can be adjusted on this overflow box allow you to modify the water level in your tank and it comes with a generous 1″ bulkhead with a pre-filter that can be used to prevent any clog from large inverts like snails. I highly recommend purchasing the aqua lifter pump for a full proof setup!

Pros
- Failure prevention features
- Adjustable water level
Cons
- Internal part of the box is clear instead of black
- Only one siphon & one drain
- Need to buy aqua lifter pump separately
2. Eshopps – The Budget Minded Solution

Best Value

Eshopps Overflow Box

An easy to use, easy to install hang on overflow box

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We are going to talk about the Eshopps PF-800 for this review. This overflow box is made for aquariums 75-125 gallons in size. The black part of the overflow (the part that you can see in the tank) only measures 8″ x 2 1/4″ leaving a small footprint in the tank. It only has one siphon tube, but that tube measures 1.25″. It includes a pre-filter, which you can remove or keep on to prevent snails like clogging the pipe. It has nylon nuts so you can easily fasten to your tank. A lot of us who got started with sump filtration started with one of these and it has been unchanged for many years.

Pros
- Cheap
- Black Internal box and small footprint
Cons
- No failure prevention features
- Only one siphon & one drain
3. Blue Ocean – For The Value Conscious Shopper

Budget Option

Blue Ocean Overflow Box

Blue Ocean’s overflow is a budget friendly overflow box

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The Blue Ocean Overflow Box represents a value for overflow boxes. It doesn’t have the name recognition like Eshopps or CPR has, but it does offer similar features to the CPR as long as you purchase the optional power head. The drain is a ample 1″ bulkhead with a strainer equipped, which means you don’t need to add a pre-filter to the box.

Pros
- Cheap!
- Strainer feature which means no prefilter needed
Cons
- Requires a power head vs. an air pump to prevent loss siphon
- Clear overflow box
The Top 3 (2021 Reviews)

I have provided a number of recommended overflow boxes above for those not considering drilling a tank. For those who are considering drilling a tank, there are a few one external overflow boxes I go to.

In a hurry? I recommend Fiji Overflow Boxes!
Editor’s Choice!

Fiji Cube Overflow Box

Bean Animal

Very Quiet

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Best Value

EShopps Eclipse Overflow Box

Brand

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Premium Pick

Prodigy Slim Overflow Box

Slimmest Design

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1. Fiji Cube – A Cheaper And Better Option Than The Eshopps Eclipse!

Editor’s Choice!

Fiji Cube Overflow Box

The Fiji Cube overflow is the best value and best choice for a bean animal external overflow box

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The Fiji Cube Overflow Box is the ideal design for an overflow box. The design has the overflow box lower so the water level in the overflow box can be adjusted to be super quiet. They are also offered in more sizes than the Eclipses with the smaller models being a Durso design, while the larger models offering a true bean animal design.

Not only is the Fiji Cube overflow box have a superior design to the Eclipse, but it is also cheaper! Designed and made in Minnesota, Fiji Cube has been known for developing high quality tanks and sumps. This overflow box is another high quality product and worth a look if you want a slim overflow box.

One word of caution with the Fiji is that the template is made for a rimless tank. For a rimmed tank, you will need to place the template INSIDE the tank and drill where the water line marker is ABOVE the plastic rim. This will result in the box being mounted inbetween the rim on some smaller tank installs. On small installs I’ve done, this required me to make my own gasket (1/4” or 1/2” depending on the install) to make the box fit even.

Pros
- Superior design and cheap for a slim overflow box!
- Takes up very little space inside the aquarium
- Kit comes complete with drill template, hole saw, and emergency drain piping
Cons
- You will need to drill the tank (or pay someone to do it)
- More advanced setup knowledge required over hang-on overflows
- Template is for rimless tanks
2. Eshopps Eclipse Slim – Bean Animal Unit at an Affordable Price!

Best Value

Eshopps Eclipse Overflow Box

The best way to jump into a bean animal overflow system

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The Eshopps Eclipse slim overflow boxes represent a great entry level into a bean animal setup. What makes a bean animal such a special overflow setup is that it covers multiple points of failure. The largest model has three drains, which will provide a complete full proof overflow design. The smaller models include two drains, but even that would be considered a pretty full proof setup.

The other great feature about the the Eclipse overflow box is the slim external design. It takes up a very small footprint in the aquarium that won’t get in the way of aquascaping your tank. Finally, it comes with everything you need. It comes with the drill template, the hole saw, and even an emergency drain pipe ready to install!

The main gripe with this overflow design is the box design itself. The slim overflow stands too high compared to the overflow box drain. This leads to a noisier overflow box than designed. Fortunately, our next overflow box on the list solves this issue!

Pros
- Full proof design
- Slim overflow takes up little space inside the aquarium
- Kit comes complete with drill template, hole saw, and emergency drain piping
Cons
- You will need to drill the tank (or pay someone to do it)
- More advanced setup knowledge required over hang-on overflows
- The overflow box can be too high compared to the drain box which makes it louder than it should be if you oversize the box
3. Prodigy External – Limitless Potential

Premium Pick

Prodigy Slim Overflow

The Thinnest Overflow Box Ever!

With an overflow that is less than 1/3 of an inch thick, this product makes any coral aquascaper jump for joy!

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The new Prodigy External Overflow Box is an adjustment breakthrough in overflow technology. When overflows first came out, they covered an entire section of an aquarium, cutting out valuable aquascaping space. Then we had the traditional overflow box, which left an ugly block in the middle of your tank. Then we move to the slim overflow, which is what the Eclipse and Fiji Cube represent.

This new overflow box is the next generation of overflows. The overflow piece that goes to your display tank is only 8mm thick! That’s less than 1/3 of an inch. You can now get a bean animal overflow installed in your aquarium and have all the room for your aquascaping. I’m super excited the potential this product brings to our aquariums.

It also allows you to adjust the overflow gate, giving you an easy option to adjust your box’s water flow level without having to reach into your sump and turn a gate value.

So what’s the catch here? The first is the price. It one of the most expensive overflow boxes you can purchase and I’m also not feeling in the color. Orange is just weird to me and I would have preferred a neutral color like a black. It’s also brand new, so it is bound to have some issues from the onset.

Give it a couple of years though and every manufacturer will be jumping to replicate this overflow – and also lower the price in the process ?.

Pros
- Slimmest overflow available
- Bean Animal design
- Adjustable overflow gate
Cons
- Expensive
- The overflow box can be too high compared to the drain box which makes it louder than it should be if you oversize the box
Prepping for a Hang On Sump Setup

If you have decided to get a hang-on overflow, the next setup is prepping for a sump setup. Let’s talk about the considerations you need to take into account:
- How will I hang my return piping – assuming I don’t want to drill
- What size sump should I get?
- What return pump should I get?
How will I hang my return piping – assuming I don’t want to drill

Assuming you want to go with a complete drill free setup, you will want to get a U-Tuber directional return to get water to enter your display tank in an orderly fashion. This U-Tube by ThePetStop will get you going and will support either 3/4″ or 1″ tubing and is very easy to install. It comes in black so it should blend in well with black backgrounds.

U-Tube Return

This U-Tube Return pip is a great choice for DIY drill free setups

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What Size Sump Should I Get?

Another very important consideration. Again, since we are considering a budget build with a hang-on overflow the go to would be a cheap aquarium from a dollar per gallon size off Petco. Get the longest and largest tank you can fit in your cabinet. For a 4 foot 120 gallon tank, this would be a 40 gallon breeder and for a 6 foot 125 gallon tank, this would be a 55 gallon tank. Keep your water level low, about 7-9 inches, in the sump and the remaining space can be used as overflow protection in the event that the overflow or return pump fails.

What Return Pump Should I Get?

For a budget build, I would just add in an Italian made AC return pump like a Fluval SP. These pumps are made with the legendary Askoll pump and are backed by a 3 year warranty. Don’t go with a DC Pump for a budget build as you will likely be shopping for cheap Chinese made pumps, which can be disastrous if they fail and you lack the budget to replace. Other options would include a Sicce Syncra or a Aquaeon Quietflow for smaller tanks. See our Best Aquarium Return Pumps post for more pumps that we reviewed.

Prepping for an External Sump Setup

If you have decided to get an external overflow box, the next setup is prepping to drill the tank and setting it up. Let’s talk about the considerations you need to take into account:
- How will I drill the tank? DIY or Paying Someone?
- What size sump should I get?
- What return pump should I get?
How will I Drill The Tank? DIY Or Paying Someone?

The major reason why most people do not go with external overflows is they are scared to drill a tank. It’s actually pretty easy to do as long as you have the right equipment and setup the time to do it. Here is what you will need if you decided to drill the tank yourself:
- Hole saws
- Drilling Template
- Drill Stand
- Corded Drill
- Plumbers Putty
How to Drill A Fish Tank

Before you decide to drill a tank, make sure that the aquarium glass you are drilling is not made of tempered glass. It is a pretty reasonable assumption that if you are drilling on the back of the tank that you don’t have to worry about this as the vast majority of manufacturers will not make the back of the glass tempered glass. However, the sides or the bottom are usually made of tempered glass so check with the manufacturer if you are planning to drill on the side or bottom.

The good thing is if you are following this review guide and selected the Eshopps overflow box, you already have a hole saw and drill template. You may need a hole saw for your return piping, which I have linked here so you can purchase. You will want a hole saw to drill a 3/4″ return if you use 1″ drain piping.

One of the optional pieces of equipment is a Drill Stand. A drill stand is excellent to use because it will steady your hand and allow you to go slowly while drilling the hole. Make sure you remove the spring when drilling an aquarium.

My Pick

Milescraft Drillmate

This is my go to drill stand that I use whenever I need to drill an aquarium. Makes drilling stable and even

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I would recommend a corded drill instead of a cordless drill for drilling an aquarium. The reason why is that drilling a tank does take time and it is likely that you will need to stop to replace the battery mid-way. A corded drill is more powerful, easier to use for this application, will drill a cleaner hole safely, and will get the job done quicker than a cordless drill. I prefer to use a DeWalt Corded Drill for drilling aquariums.

My Pick

DEWALT Corded Drill

Drilling a tank takes a long time, especially on larger tanks. A corded drill ensures you have full power without worry about your battery dying

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Plumbers putty and water is the last items you will need. You want to have water in the area you are drilling to lubricate and cool the drill as you go. Use the plumber’s putty to create a circle to hold the water as you drill.

Finally I have included a video to help from Melev’s Reef. He is a seasoned expert and uses a cordless drill. I still recommend going with a drill stand at minimum if you are doing this for the first time.

Paying Someone to Drill Your Tank

If all of that scares you, you can always offer to pay someone to drill your tank. A number of local aquarist Facebook groups will have people who will happily drill your tank or you can ask your local aquarium club if there are any members who will drill tanks. Usually the fee is pretty minimal and some people will even do it for free! I would definitely check out a facebook group or your aquarium club before even considering paying a plumber or local fish store to drill your tank.

What Size Sump Should I Get?

As big as you can get. Since we are talking about a drilled tank setup, we venture into the realm of custom made sumps. There are several stock sumps out there that I would say are the best aquarium sumps you can buy that are manufactures. You can of course still go with a DIY baffle kit for smaller tanks as well.

What Return Pump Should I Get?

Since we are talking about a higher end budget, I feel more comfortable recommending a DC Pump if you want the features that a DC Pump has. The best DC Pump that won’t break the bank and is not cheap Chinese junk are the Reef Octopus Varios DC Pumps. Other options on the AC side would include the Fluval SP, Sicce SDC, and Rossmont Pumps. Check out our best aquarium return pump post for more details on pump picks.

Editor’s Choice

Syncra SDC

Editor’s Choice

The Syncra is a perfect combination of DC control with AC reliability. Backed by a 5 year warranty and the legendary Sicce brand name

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Buy or Skip? My Honest Verdict
Buy an HOB overflow if:

You can’t drill (tempered glass, rental, or landlord situation)

You need a sump on an existing display tank you don’t want to move

Your sump is large enough to absorb a siphon failure without overflowing (7–9 inches of headroom minimum)

You’re willing to check the siphon weekly and prime it after every power outage

Skip the HOB overflow if:

You can drill the tank – a drilled setup with a true external overflow is always more reliable

You’re running a reef tank with expensive coral; a single siphon failure could wipe it out

You won’t be home regularly to check the system

Your sump is undersized – a small sump with an HOB overflow is a flood waiting to happen
My Recommended Picks

I have provided a good chuck of information and you may be wondering what my recommendation is. If you are going with a hang-on overflow box setup, I would recommend the CPR overflow box, an aqualift pump, and a Fluval SP or Syncra as your return pump.

Mark’s #1 Pick

For hang-on boxes: CPR CS90 with an Aqualifter pump. It’s the only mainstream HOB overflow with a dedicated port for an Aqualifter, which keeps the siphon running even after a brief power blip. I’ve set up probably a dozen of these in store tanks over the years and the ones with the Aqualifter attached almost never lost prime. The ones without? Came in on Monday mornings to a sump running dry more times than I’d like to admit. The pump costs $25 more. Just buy it.

For drilled setups: Fiji Cube. Bean Animal design, made in the US, priced well below the competition. The Eclipse is a fine box but the Fiji Cube’s lower profile solves the noise issue that plagues the Eclipse on larger installs. If you’re drilling anyway, there’s no reason not to run a true Bean Animal.

If you are going with a drilled setup, you can’t go wrong with the Eshopps Eclipse overflow, but the Fiji Cube overflow box is a killer design and price. There are others out there, but they are far more expensive and the Eshopps Eclipse or Fiji Cube will serve the vast majority of aquarists. If you are going with a DC pump, it’s pretty much the Reef Octopus Pump or something far more expensive unless you are okay with purchasing multiple Jebeo pumps and having them ready on hand to replace as they tend to fail prematurely.
What Cheap Single-Chamber Overflows Miss

The budget single-chamber hang-on boxes you’ll find from no-name brands all skip the same things:
- No siphon backup – One tube, one failure point. When it breaks prime (and it will), there’s nothing to catch it. You either notice in time or you don’t.
- Durso gurgle and no fix – A single standpipe creates a loud gurgling sound that cheap boxes have no way to tune. It’s not just annoying; the noise is the sound of air getting into the drain line, which is a reliability issue, not just a comfort one.
- Inadequate GPH at real depth – A $35 overflow rated “1200 GPH” almost never has the internal diameter to deliver that at real head height. The tube restricts flow far below the label claim. Pair it with a reasonably sized return pump and you’ll overflow your display on the first fill.
Save yourself the headache. Pay for the CPR or skip the HOB category entirely and drill the tank.
Closing Thoughts

I hope I have provided you a wealth of information to make an informed decision. Please leave a comment below if you have any questions. Thanks for reading!

One last thing. If you run an HOB overflow, check the siphon every week. Every week. Not monthly. Not when you remember. Every week. Set a calendar reminder if you have to. A siphon that’s losing prime will show you tiny air bubbles in the U-tube before it fully breaks. Catch it there and you re-prime in 30 seconds. Miss it and you come home to a sump running dry and a return pump burning out. It’s not optional maintenance. It’s the whole game with these boxes.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
December 26, 2019

8 Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers – Tested Across 25 Years of Planted Tanks

Planted tank fertilization is one of those areas where I’ve seen hobbyists go in two completely opposite directions. either ignoring it entirely and wondering why plants melt, or going so deep into the EI dosing rabbit hole that they stress themselves out. The truth is somewhere in the middle. After 25 years of keeping planted tanks, I know which fertilizer approaches work for most setups and which products consistently deliver results.

Fertilization is one of those areas where planted tank keepers either overthink it completely or neglect it until their plants start declining. I’ve been dosing fertilizers in planted tanks for over 25 years and have used everything from all-in-one liquid ferts to the Estimative Index dry dosing method. The right fertilizer depends heavily on your tank’s light level, plant density, and whether you’re running CO2. and I break all of that down here alongside my picks for the best products available.

With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their plant growth woes (and believe me, there are a ton of fertilizer products out there). I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. You can check out the video below from our YouTube Channel.

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice!

APT Complete

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Made for aquascapers
All in one formula
Easy to use

Great For Dosing

Brightwell Aquatics Florinmulti

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Macro Nutrients
Micro Nutrients
Brand Name

Great For Shrimp

NilocG Shrimp Specific

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Shrimp Specific

Let’s cut straight to the point for those of you in a hurry. My two recommended choices would be Florinmulti as it is readily available at more specialty stores and APT Complete due to how concentrated the mix is. APT is complete fertilizer with everything plants need. You can’t go wrong with either choice and both are designed with planted tank hobbyists in mind. Go with NilocG’s formula if you are keeping a shrimp tank.

Knowing all of this, I still feel in order to get the best results with fertilization, that you should consider CO2 Injection in your aquarium as that will significantly enhance the growth of your plants and will make fertilization far more effective. When the CO2 levels are higher and stable in your planted tank system, your plants will take off with the available CO2 for them to utilize. The fertilizers they will then use will fuel their growth further.

Mark’s Expert Take

I’ve seen this play out hundreds of times: hobbyists either dump in too much fertilizer and wonder why they suddenly have an algae explosion, or they dose almost nothing and watch their plants slowly melt over weeks. The sweet spot is matching your fertilizer approach to your tank’s tech level. For high-tech tanks running CO2, the Estimative Index (EI) method is the most reliable system I know. You dose a known excess of nutrients, do a large weekly water change to reset, and your plants never starve. For low-tech setups, keep it simple: a good root tab near your heavy feeders plus a weekly dose of an all-in-one liquid like APT Complete or Brightwell Florinmulti. I dosed fertilizers in store planted displays for years and the lesson that cost me the most time was learning that algae outbreaks are usually a dosing problem first, a light problem second. Get the nutrients dialed in before you start blaming your lights.

Mark Valderrama — Owner, AquariumStoreDepot | 25+ years in the hobby

Why These Products Ranked Where They Did

Not all fertilizers are equal and the difference isn’t just marketing. Here’s what I actually weighed:

Macro/micro balance — does it cover NPK plus iron and traces, or does it leave gaps you have to fill separately?
Concentration per dose — a highly concentrated formula means fewer milliliters used per gallon, which matters for cost per gallon treated over time
Iron chelate form — DTPA-chelated iron stays available at higher pH levels (up to 7.5) while EDTA-chelated iron drops out of solution above pH 6.5. If you’re running a planted tank above pH 7, this matters a lot
Phosphate inclusion — some products omit phosphate on purpose so you can control it separately based on fish load; others include it and risk algae in lightly stocked tanks
Value per gallon dosed — a $30 bottle that lasts 6 months beats a $15 bottle you burn through in 6 weeks
Shrimp/invertebrate compatibility — copper content is the main flag; shrimp tanks need formulas specifically tested at low copper levels

The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

Now, let’s get started with fertilizer recommendations. I’m going to provide both liquid fertilizers and root tabs and explain further as I go through each product.

Picture	Name	Features	Link
Editor’s Choice!	APT Complete	Macro Nutrients Micro Nutrients All In One Formula	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Best For Dosing	Brightwell Aquatics Florinmulti	Macro Nutrients Micro Nutrients	Buy On Amazon
Ideal For Shrimp	NilocG Aquatics Shrimp Specific Fertilizer	Shrimp Specific	Buy On Amazon
	Seachem Flourish	Macro Nutrients	Buy On Amazon
	Seachem Flourish Trace	Trace Elements	Buy On Amazon
	Seachem Flourish Tabs	Root Tabs	Buy On Amazon
	API Leaf Zone	Macro Nutrients Micro Nutrients	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon
	API Root Tabs	Root Tabs	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

The Top 8 Products (2023 Reviews)

Let’s take a lot at each plant fertilizer and see why they made the cut

1. APT Complete – for Serious Planted Tank Enthusiasts

Editor’s Choice!

APT Complete

Editor’s Choice

Made by an aquascaper for aquascapers. This is the best all around aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. Marco and micronutrients in one bottle!

Use Coupon Code ASDComplete for 10% off your order!

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

APT Complete is the comprehensive planted aquarium plant fertilizer to use for enthusiasts. It is designed for demanding aquarium plants by a demanding planted tank expert that is research backed. The key here is the concentrate of this formula. Just 1ML per 20 liters adds the following nutrients:

1.5PPM Nitrogen
0.7 PPM Phosphorous
4 PPM Potassium
0.3 PPM Iron
0.4 PPM Magnesium

This concentrate is at a higher level than many of the branded fertilizers on this list and is truly designed for those with high demanding tanks. That means not only will you save on fertilizer, but you will grow successfully as well. it’s also shrimp friendly as it has a low amount of copper compared to other brands.

This is a liquid fertilizer product that is not well known in the industry as they maker of the product is in Singapore. You won’t find this product in most stores. It’s worth it’s price in gold. It comes with everything aquarium plants need in one bottle. It is the best all in one aquarium plant fertilizer I’ve seen on the market. And to top it all off, you can use the offer code ASDComplete for a cool 10% off. What are you waiting for!

Pros

Designed for planted tank enthusiasts
Saves money in the long run
Shrimp tank friendly
Has everything plants need

Cons

Not available in most stores
Need to be careful with low tech tanks due to concentration

Mark’s #1 Pick

APT Complete by 2Hr Aquarist

The concentration level is what sets it apart. At 1 mL per 20 liters, you get 1.5 ppm nitrogen, 0.7 ppm phosphorus, 4 ppm potassium, 0.3 ppm iron, and 0.4 ppm magnesium in a single dose. That’s a full planted tank meal from one bottle, and the cost per gallon treated comes out lower than most of the cheaper all-in-ones once you do the math. The formula was designed by a serious aquascaper, not a general pet product manufacturer, and that shows in the balance. Use coupon code ASDComplete for 10% off.

2. Brightwell Aquatics Florinmulti – Advanced Comprehensive Supplementation

Brightwell Aquatics Florinmulti

A comprehensive fertilizer solution that is more available at local fish stores. Works for all planted tanks

Buy On Amazon

I know Brightwell Aquatics from their saltwater products, but their freshwater products are also pretty amazing. This Florinmulti aquarium plant fertilizer is a great mix of macro and mico nutrients that will make your aquatic plants thrive. Brightwell’s name in the industry is well know and they do their research on their products. It’s an easy to use product.

The main thing that Brightwell did with this liquid fertilizer product is not include phosphate and nitrogen in their supplement. I actually liked how they did this because nitrate and phosphate supplementation can be done separately and can be controlled. Phosphate and nitrate are very dependent on your bio-load and I feel that Brightwell made the right choice excluding it from their brand. As with many brightwell products, it’s a premium price product.

Pros

Contains 14 elements
Brightwell name brand
Easy to use

Cons

doesn’t contain nitrogen or phosphate
Expensive

3. NilocG Aquatics – for Shrimp Tanks

Great For Shrimp Tanks!

Thrive S Fertilizer

An aquarium plant fertilizer specifically designed for shrimp tanks

Buy On Amazon

NilocG Aquatics Shrimp Specific Fertilizer is a great choice for those with Freshwater Shrimp Tanks. Supplementation for shrimp like Cherry or Amano Shrimp is more specific than for fish because you have to be careful of copper levels and this fertilizer keeps that in mind by not including copper in its mix. I’m always a fan of aquarium plant fertilizers that provide a guaranteed analysis and this product has good numbers.

This liquid fertilizer product is very safe to use with shrimp. NilocG sells the best aquarium plant fertilizers for shrimp tanks on the list.

Pros

Specifically make for shrimp tanks
Product has guaranteed analysis

Cons

Expensive

4. Seachem Flourish – Entry Level Supplementation for Planted Tanks

Seachem Flourish

An easy to use entry level fertilizer for freshwater planted tanks. Readily available at most stores

Buy On Amazon

Seachem Flourish is a common supplement you will see in the retail stores when looking for an aquarium plan fertilizer. It’s very easy to use and beginner friendly due to the light amount of nutrients it contains. This makes Seachem Flourish ideal for the beginner and for those with low light or low tech planted tanks. It is readily available and Seachem has a brand name behind their product.

Pros

Ideal for low light/low tech planted tanks
Easy to use
Readily available

Cons

Contains little phosphate and nitrate
You will use the bottle quickly

5. Seachem Flourish Trace – Trace Element Supplementation for Planted Tanks

Seachem Flourish Trace

A great aquarium fertilizer for getting essential trace elements into your planted tank. Readily available in stores

Buy On Amazon

Seachem Flourish Trace a product that includes a variety of trace elements like Boron, Manganese, and Copper. Because this product only contains trace elements – it makes it easier to use with other products like nitrate, phosphate, iron supplements so you can be extra accurate. SeaChem Flourish Trace is a readily available aquarium plant fertilizer product at stores making this easy for you to pick up if you’re in a jam.

It does contain copper though, so keep that in mind if you keep a shrimp tank.

Pros

Trace elements only – good for supplementation
Easy to use – Beginner friendly

Cons

Contains copper – not safe for shrimp tanks
Runs out quick

6. Seachem Flourish Tabs – Great Choice for Rooted Plants

Seachem Flourish Tabs

A tab fertilizer designed for rooted aquarium plants

Buy On Amazon

Root tabs like Seachem Flourish are great for planted tanks with inert substrates. These tabs work by placing them down in your substrate around the roots of your aquarium plants like Amazon S words. The Seachem Flourish product has all the major and minor elements needed to feed your aquarium plants. It’s a comprehensive fertilizer, but it is designed for beginner planted tanks. Those with higher demand aquarium plants and bigger planted tank loads should to look at other fertilizers or should to separate out some of the main macros like nitrate and phosphate.

Pros

Easy to use
Readiliy available
Has the all the elements you need

Cons

Designed as a catch all for all tanks – not for high demanding tanks
Only suited for rooted aquatic plants

7. API Leaf Zone – Budget and Beginner Friendly Supplementation

API Leaf Zone Freshwater Aquarium Plant Fertilizer

Contains iron and potassium. Best suited for heavily stocked aquariums or low tech plant setups. Easy for beginners to use

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

If you head off to your local pet store, API Leaf Zone will likely be the aquarium plant fertilizer product that you will find there. It is readily available in most stores and is a pretty cheap product. It contains iron and potassium, two of the nutrients we listed earlier that are not produced by livestock or come from source water. Because it doesn’t include other nutrients, the product assumes that you have a heavy bio-load that will produce the other essential nutrients in your aquarium.

This supplement is best for what we call “low-tech” planted tanks. These are tanks that contain Low Light Plants and aquatic plants that are easy to care for. Because it only contains two nutrients, it is beginner friendly to use.

Pros

Cheap
Readily available

Cons

Runs out fast
Only contains potassium and iron

8. API Root Tabs – Supplementation for Heavy Bio-Load Tanks

API Root Tabs

An easy to use and beginner friendly root tab fertilizer

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

API Root Tabs are likely going to be the most readily available root tab that you will find in stores. it’s a very easy to use product and it contains iron. It is relevantly cheap making it an easy to afford for newcomers to planted tanks. Because it’s a tabbed product, it’s not ideal for aquatic plants that feed off the water column so know this before using.

The main drawback for me is there is no guaranteed analysis on the product. This can be frustrating for those who want to dial in their dosing routines.

Pros

Easy to use
Contains Iron
Cheap

Cons

Not for water column feeding plants
No guaranteed analysis info

Buy or Skip? Straight Verdicts

Running a planted tank with CO2? Buy an all-in-one liquid (APT Complete is my top pick). You need the full macro and micro package and a concentrated formula will save you money long-term.
Doing EI (Estimative Index) dosing? Skip the all-in-ones. Buy dry macro salts (KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4) and a quality micro mix separately. You’ll have real control over every nutrient and spend a fraction of what bottled all-in-ones cost at scale.
Running a low-tech, low-light tank with easy plants? Root tabs plus Seachem Flourish once a week is enough. Don’t overcomplicate it.
Keeping shrimp? NilocG is the clear choice. Don’t risk your colony with a formula that hasn’t been tested for copper levels at invertebrate-safe concentrations.
Just starting out and not sure yet? Start with APT Complete. The dosing is simple, it covers everything, and when you’re ready to upgrade to EI you’ll already understand what each nutrient does.

Macro and Micro Nutrients for Aquarium Plants – What Are They?

We are going to start with the nutrients that aquatic plants need. Aquatic plants like terrestrial plants require a variety of nutrients to grow and thrive. These nutrients are split into two groups – macro and micro nutrients

Macro Nutrients

Macros nutrients make up the majority of your aquarium plant’s mass. These nutrients will come either from your water column or your Aquarium Substrate. We can split up these macro nutrients into the following:

Carbon
Nitrogen
Phosphorous
Potassium

Carbon

Carbon is the big chuck of the equation. Plants need carbon. It makes up 40% of your plant’s dry mass. As I mentioned in our Best CO2 System for Planted Aquarium post, the fact that carbon is such a big part of your plant’s mass is why CO2 supplementation makes such a giant impact on your plant growth. With higher CO2 levels, you can scale up your nutrient requirements and accelerate the growth and improve the health of your aquatic plants by leaps and bounds. We want to aim for 30PPM of CO2.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen levels will have impact on your plant growth rates. When it’s very limited it can cause growth rates to halt and plants to become brittle. In green plants, low levels will lead to yellowing of the leaves. It can also enhance the reds of some plants at lower levels. Nitrogen can be made available from livestock if the bio-load if significant.

Phosphorous

This is an often under-dosed nutrient. PO4 plays a big role in the energy systems if plants. If you have an ideal amount of PO4 in your aquarium, an aquatic plant will be more robust and will display better colors. Phosphorus can be made available from livestock if the bio-load if significant.

Potassium

Potassium helps with the metabolism of your plants. Without it, your plant health will deteriorate cause visible issues like pinholes or brittle leaves. Potassium is not produced by your livestock in your aquarium and is not usually available from your water. It requires dosing to maintain ideal levels.

Micro Nutrients

Micro nutrients are nutrients that are required by your aquatic plants in lesser amounts, but are critical to your plant’s success. Micro Nutrients are:

Iron
Manganese
Trace Elements

Iron

Iron is important for chlorophyll production. Without the proper amount of iron, plants can be afflicted with clorosis in the leaves (aka yellowing of leaves). Iron is neither available from livestock or your source water. It requires dosing to maintain proper levels.

Manganese

Manganese is part of the photosynthesis process. When levels are lacking, this will affect the ability to take in macro nutrients. Like Iron, this must be dosed in order to maintain levels.

Trace Elements

These would include things like Magnesium, Boron, Zine, Copper, Cobalt, etc. They can be contained in source water, but often times are required to be dosed to maintain levels.

What Generic Fertilizers Get Wrong

Pond fertilizer tablets and cheap all-in-one liquids show up on planted tank forums constantly. Here’s why I don’t recommend them:

Wrong iron chelate form — most cheap fertilizers use EDTA-chelated iron, which precipitates out of solution above pH 6.5. If your tank runs neutral to slightly alkaline, plants can show iron deficiency even when you’re dosing regularly
Too much phosphate — generic formulas often load up on phosphate, which sounds fine until you’re fighting hair algae and green spot algae on every leaf. In a low-bioload planted tank, added phosphate plus light equals algae
No potassium — potassium doesn’t come from fish waste or most source water. It needs to be dosed. Many cheap products skip it entirely, which leads to pinhole deficiencies and brittle leaf margins
Wrong dosing concentration — pond tablets are made for outdoor ponds with high dilution ratios. In a planted aquarium, you’ll either underdose without knowing it or overdose a specific nutrient and create an imbalance that triggers algae

Types of Aquarium Fertilizers

Aquarium fertilizers come in a variety of form. They are:

Substrates
Liquid Fertilizers
Root Tabs

Substrates

An active substrate like ADA Aquasoil will act as its own fertilizer being a source of nutrients for your aquatic plants. they’re great for getting your planted aquariums started. They will degrade over time. This requires you to replace the substrate over time and increase dosing as it breaks down. You won’t need to use an active substrate if you have plants that are column feeders. This is because column feeders can’t access the nutrients in your substrate.

Liquid

Liquid Fertilizers are the standard plant fertilizer you will see. they’re easy to use and distribute. They can both be feed into the water column and injected into the substrate. This give them the advantage of being able to feed both column and root feeders.

Root Tabs

Roots Tabs are designed for root plants. If you have a large amount of aquarium plants that feed through their root system, Rooted tabs is useful in delivering the nutrients they need to continue to thrive and grow. Root tabs won’t be useful for aquatic plants that feed off your water column.

Should You Dose These Products?

The quick answer is yes, if you want to have the best growth and coloration of most plant species.

Because your aquarium is a closed environment, there is not a natural cycle of renewal of nutrients. Our substrates and soil eventually will delete and other nutrients will be removed via water changes over time. There are also elements in that can’t be replaced with source water or produced by livestock as mentioned above. A planted tank can definitely grow without fertilization, but they won’t achieve the best plant growth. You are Bottom line: not allowing your aquarium to live to its full potential. We want our environments and pets to thrive and give them the best, so fertilization is there to provide an ideal environment.

We proper levels, your aquatic plants will grow more dense, with better color, and will remain healthy.

Understanding The Three Elements of Aquatic Greenery Success

We are covering one of the elements today. There are three of them for planted tank success and they are:

Proper Planted Tank Lighting
A Good Planted Aquarium Substrate
Aquarium Fertilizers

Fertilizers are probably the most difficult to understand and easiest to ignore. It’s also easy to under and overdose! Below is a picture from aquaticplantcentral’s forum to give you an overview on plant nutrient deficiencies as a quick reference.

Getting familiar with the photo above will help you diagnose issues in your planted tank as your plants will give you visual queues and signs on what they are lacking in the aquarium.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are common questions I get from readers and clients. If you have any you free I missed, please leave a comment below and I can update the post to including the additional question and answer.

What Are The Parameters I Should Be Maintaining In A Planted Tank?

This is a loaded question, but assuming you run a higher light and CO2 system, these would be figures you would generally aim for in a planted tank. You can use Aquarium Test Kits to monitor your levels:

Parameter	Level
Ammonia	0 PPM
Nitrite	0 PPM
GH (General Hardness)	2-8 dGH
KH (Carbonate Hardness)	3-6 dKH
pH	6.5 – 7.0
N03 (Nitrate)	5 – 10 PPM
CO2	20 – 30 PPM
PO4 (Phosphate)	0.2 – 0.5 PPM
Fe (Iron)	0.2 – 0.7PPM

Why Do You Not Recommend API Leaf Zone and Flourish?

Unlike other sites or bloggers you may have visited I don’t recommend API Leaf Zone or Flourish for serious planted tank owners. API Leaf Zone only contains Potassium and Iron. It is designed for a low tech planted tank and lacks the macro nutrients needed for serious grow in a full blown planted tank that is running CO2.

Flourish on the other hand is an entry level dosing product. It contains little nitrate and phosphate. This allows for forgiveness if you overdose or not sure what you are doing at first. When you have a full planted tank with lots of hungry plants, you will go through this product quickly.

Both the Brightwell and APT products are designed for planted tank owners will full planted tanks running off CO2 systems. They are designed for serious hobbyist who want big time growth. API Leaf Zone and SeaChem Flourish are entry level products for when you start out. When you’re ready to graduate you can use Brightwell and APT. Most of the time, I just tell folks to go with Brightwell or APT right away knowing their goals are a full planted tank with CO2.

What About CO2 Boosters?

CO2 boosters are great for low light and low tech planted tanks. I would only recommend them for those setups. A CO2 booster product like API CO2 Booster will work on these low light and low tech setups. All planted aquariums will welcome a boost in CO2 levels regardless of what types of plants you put into your system.

The issue with CO2 boosters is outside of a low light or low tech planted tank. When you get into setups that have full tanks of hungry and fast growing plants, they will require constant CO2 levels. You will struggle to maintain stable CO2 levels in a fully planted tank, especially if you decide to make a high demand planted aquascape like say an Dutch Aquascape. A CO2 Booster simply won’t do with these setups. I would recommend a CO2 system if your long term plan is a fully planted tank or if you want an advanced aquascape setup.

Are They Bad for Fish?

Fertilizers are not bad for fish in general. The main parameter we may have to keep an eye on is nitrates if we are housing particularly sensitive fish like say Discus. Fertilizers encourage plant grow, which in turn will increase the quality of your water. It will increase the natural look of your aquarium and provide shelter for your fish. Large plants will reduce aggression and decrease stress levels. For some fish, it will produce a food source for them. There is virtually no drawback to your tank health if you use fertilizers properly as healthy plants is healthy for all the inhabitants in your tank.

How Do I Dose Liquid Products?

If you are using an all-in-one fertilizer like we are recommending, your job should be fairly easy. We should follow the instructions on the bottle, in which both APT and Brightwell offer clear guidelines on how much to dose. Pour the suggested dosage in the cap or a small container and release the fertilizer to the outlet of your tank. Before you recap the bottle make sure you dip the cap in your aquarium water to rinse off. This will keep your cap from crusting over time.

Experienced planted tank owners prefer to dose everyday. It is better for your planted to have sustained stable levels in your tank. Dosing once a week with a big dosage can lead to unstable levels, which will hurt the potential grow you can get if you dosage smaller and constantly everyday.

When Should I Dose My Tank?

You should fertilize as soon as your tank is cycled and your plants are actively growing. it’s best to dose every day. it’s best to dose all in one day.

Do These Products Increase Nitrates?

It most certainty can. It depends on the fertilizer. it’s best to follow your manufacturer’s instructions and monitor your levels via a test kit. You needs to adjust overtime as your plants grow.

Do Planted Tanks Need Fertilizer?

Yes, aquarium plants should be given fertilizer. However, the need to fertilizer doesn’t trump the need for higher CO2 levels. The effectiveness of plant growth goes CO2 > Lighting > Fertilizer. You need to balance all three, but you will get greater initial plant growth going with CO2 first. If you have a good aqua soil, you will generally get a good fertilizer boost to start.

Closing Thoughts

Aquarium plant fertilizers are 1 of 3 major components of planted tank success with lighting and substrates being the other. I hope I helped to point you in the right direction on what fertilizer is right for you and your budget. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!

Fertilizer deficiency looks like plant problems. But so does an algae outbreak caused by too much fertilizer. The two look totally different, but both trace back to the same source: a dosing decision that’s out of balance with your tank’s light level, CO2, and plant mass. The right fertilizer product makes finding that balance achievable instead of a constant guessing game. Start with APT Complete if you want one product that covers everything. Move to EI dosing with dry salts if you want real precision. Either way, once you nail the balance, your plants will show you immediately.

🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

December 14, 2019