Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

The 10-gallon tank is one of the most popular starter sizes in the hobby. and one of the most commonly overstocked. After 25 years of keeping and recommending fish, I’ve seen this play out hundreds of times: someone grabs a 10-gallon kit, picks fish that look cool together, and a few months later wonders why things aren’t going well. The fix is simple but requires being honest about stocking numbers. In this guide I’m sharing 15 fish that genuinely work in a 10-gallon, with real numbers on how many you can keep and a clear-eyed look at which species are often oversold for this tank size.

Top Picks

Editor’s Choice

Betta

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• Easy to care
• Lot of breeds available

Easiest To Care For

White Cloud Mountain Minnow” data-lasso-lid=”1063222″>

White Cloud Minnow

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• No heater needed
• Easy to care for

Most Unique

Pea Puffers

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• Species only
• Personality

Let’s get straight to the point and go with my top picks. Bettas are my top choice because there are so many varieties available, and they have a great centerpiece look to them. White cloud minnows are the easiest to care for of all the fish I’m listing on this post. They don’t require a heater, school and are very hardy. Finally, pea puffers are a great choice if you want something unique, but they are semi-aggressive and best housed with their own kind in a species only tank in a group for an aquarium this small.

The 15 Best Fish For 10 Gallon Tank

Now that you know a little more about my top picks for fish you can keep in a 10-gallon tank, it’s time to meet some of the other fish! For you visual learners, my video is above for you to view. Check out my YouTube channel here.

For each species, I’ll be provided a quick rundown on the most important stats you need to know like:

• Their scientific name
• Size when fully grown
• Care Level
• Temperament
• What they eat
• Where do they come from
• Temperature range
• Swimming level in the tank

Let’s begin!

1. Betta

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Betta Fish

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Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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• Scientific Name: Betta splendens
• Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Aggressive
• Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
• Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
• Water Temperature: 75-80°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The betta fish is surely the most popular nano fish for freshwater tanks of all time! These aggressive little fish prefer to be kept as the only fish in the aquarium. They are also known as Siamese fighting fish because males will fight to the death if kept together in a small aquarium.

This means only a single male betta fish should be kept in a 10-gallon species-only tank. Don’t worry though, the tank won’t feel too empty because these colorful fish have plenty of personalities. Betta fish come in a huge range of colors and shapes, so there’s a type of betta out there to suit just about anyone. They do need warmer temperatures than most fish.

2. Guppy

• Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
• Adult Size: 1-2.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: South America and the Caribbean
• Water Temperature: 63-82°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

Guppies are another one of the most popular fish in the aquarium hobby. These colorful, peaceful community fish come in an amazing variety of colors and breeds known as fancy guppies.

The fancy guppy is a hardy fish that does great in both community tanks and species-only tanks. They are livebearers, so if you would prefer not to breed them, make sure you don’t keep males and females in the same tank.

Female fish may already be pregnant when you buy them so males tend to be the better bet. The males are also smaller, more colorful, and have longer fins.

3. Rice

Japanese Rice Fish

Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

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• Scientific Name: Oryzias Latipes
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: Japan
• Water Temperature: 72-80°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

Japanese Rice fish are an often overlooked, but extremely interesting and playful little fish. They have been raised for centuries in Asia due to their natural habitat being on rice patties across the continent! These curious creatures also go by many names including Medaka or Japanese killifish because they can be found naturally around these areas as well.

Ricefish, known for their peaceful nature, should be housed in the aquarium with other tranquil fish and larger invertebrates. Ricefish do best when kept at numbers of 6 or more, as they show their finest coloration and behavior when around others for companionship. They have the potential to jump out of a tank so you will want to cover your tank with an appropriate hood or glass lid.

4. Endler’s Livebearer

• Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
• Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: Venezuela, South America
• Water Temperature: 72-80°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

Endler’s livebearers are the nano cousin of the common guppy. Like guppies and mollies, these fish breed very easily in the home aquarium. You can prevent breeding by keeping only specimens of a single-sex.

Males are smaller and more colorful than females, just like guppies. These colorful little fish are very easy to care for and great fun to watch as they forage all over the tank. This is one nano fish that I would recommend to any beginner!

5. Chili Rasbora

• Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
• Adult Size: 0.8 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivorous, feed-dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Water Temperature: 68-82°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The Chili rasbora (video source) is a tiny fish that does great in a 10-gallon aquarium. They can be kept on their own or with other community fish and inverts.

These bright orange fish captivate aquarists with interesting black markings on their sides and fins. Chili rasboras are schooling fish and you can keep as many as 20 of them in a planted 10-gallon tank with great filtration.

6. White Cloud Minnow

White Cloud Mountain Minnow

A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

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• Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivorous, feed-dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: China
• Water Temperature: 58-72°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

White cloud mountain minnows are beautiful and graceful schooling fish that are a great choice for a 10-gallon aquarium. They are not tropical fish like the other species in this list and are suitable for cool water tanks.

White cloud minnows are available in some amazing varieties, with gold body color, or long flowing fins for example.

7. Celestial Pearl Danio

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• Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
• Water Temperature: 68-78°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The celestial pearl danio is beautiful nano fish that is a wonderful choice for a 10-gallon aquarium. These small fish are most happy in a heavily planted tank. They can be kept with other peaceful fish, but they can be outcomhttps://aquariumstoredepot.com/blogs/news/small-freshwater-fishpeted by faster more aggressive feeders and bigger fish.

Celestial pearl danios are small school fish, so be sure to pick up a group of at least 6 individuals.

8. Neon Tetra

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: South America
• Water Temperature:70-77°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The neon tetra is a classic nano fish that will add amazing color to your 10-gallon tank.

This is about the smallest tank size that neon tetras will thrive in, but with great filtration, you can easily keep small groups of 6 to 8. These popular tropical fish are easy to find at just about any pet store and are very easy to care for.

9. Female Bettas

• Scientific Name: Betta splendens
• Adult Size: 2-2.5 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
• Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
• Water Temperature: 75-80°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

Female betta fish are often overlooked in the aquarium hobby because they don’t have as much color and fancy finnage as the males. The truth is that females still have great colors and personalities. They are not as aggressive as the males, which makes them a better option as tank mates for community tanks. You will have an easier time finding tank mates with females.

A small group of female betta fish is known as a sorority. Experienced aquarists can keep a sorority in a 10-gallon tank, but a single female betta is usually the perfect fish for a tank of this size.

10. Zebra Danio

• Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: India
• Water Temperature: 70-82°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

Zebra danios are very adaptable and hardy fish that can be housed in a 10-gallon aquarium. These active fish are great fun to watch as they zoom around the tank at high speed!

Zebra danios are not always schooling fish, but a group of at least 5 or 6 danios should be kept in the same tank. These fish need plenty of swimming space, so make sure you leave a lot of space available.

11. Dwarf Corydoras Catfish

• Scientific Name: Corydoras hastatus
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: South America
• Water Temperature: 72-78°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The dwarf corydoras is a great little cory catfish that stays really small. These schooling catfish swim around actively in the midwater of the aquarium, unlike most other species of cory cats that are bottom dwellers.

10 gallons is the minimum tank size that these cory catfish should be kept in and they do best in groups of at least 6. They are a great addition to community tanks with other community fish.

12. Freshwater Pea Puffer

Freshwater Pea Puffers

At only an inch in length, this is the smallest pufferfish you can purchase in the aquarium hobby

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• Scientific Name: Carinotetradon travancoricus
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Aggressive
• Diet: Carnivorous, feed frozen and live foods
• Origin: India
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The freshwater pea puffer (video source) is a unique tropical fish species that has a larger-than-life personality. These tiny predators are aggressive fish that do best in a species-only tank.

I would suggest keeping just one freshwater pea puffer in a 10-gallon tank. Some aquarists have had success keeping as many as 3 of these fascinating fish in this tank size, however.

If you do plan on keeping more than one, make sure your tank is heavily planted. Adding plenty of structure like driftwood will also ensure that the fish are not constantly visible to one another. It can be difficult to house them with other fish successfully.

13. Dwarf Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
• Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried and frozen foods
• Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The dwarf gourami is an amazing little fish from the same family as the betta fish. They are the smallest gourami type and therefore the best option for small tanks.

Due to their small size, a pair of these beautiful fish could be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium, as long as you have great filtration and plenty of live plants and hiding places. Dwarf gourami fish like dark, shady spots in the tank, and this will allow the female to get some alone time if the male is giving her too much attention.

14. Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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• Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivorous, Algae
• Origin: Taiwan
• Water Temperature: 60-82°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

You don’t have to keep fish species to have a lively 10-gallon aquarium. Freshwater shrimp are another cool stocking option for nano aquariums. These useful inverts eat algae and leftover food from the bottom of the tank. There are many types of freshwater shrimp and great algae eaters available with the cherry shrimp being the one with the most utility in an aquarium.

These cherry shrimp are relatively hardy and can be found in a great variety of different color morphs from cherry-red to deep blue. Baby are not safe with any fish species in the tank, but adults can be kept with some nano fish like dwarf corydoras.

15. Nerite Snails

Zebra Nerite

Nerite snails are one of the best algae eating snails you can buy. Plant safe and do not reproduce in fresh water!

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• Scientific Name: Clithon, Vittina, and Neritina spp.
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Algae
• Origin: Africa and Asia
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Many fishkeepers think of snails as unwanted pests. They’ve probably never kept nerite snails! These awesome algae eaters cannot breed in freshwater which means they never take over tanks.

What’s more, they are great-looking animals and add very little bioload to a small tank. There are few species of nerites in the aquarium hobby, including the horned, tiger, zebra, and olive nerite snail. All of them are ideal for 10-gallon aquariums.

What You Need to Know About Stocking For Your Aquarium

The first thing to know when stocking a ten-gallon aquarium is that smaller doesn’t necessarily mean easier. The smaller the aquarium is, the less stable the water conditions will be.

There is just something so special about a nano aquarium, however, that makes the challenge welcome. For me, there are 3 keys to success when keeping a 10-gallon fish tank:

• Choosing the right fish
• Providing good quality filtration
• Keeping up with regular maintenance

I’ll cover each of these factors in the article, so make sure you read until the end.

Debunking the Inch-Per-Gallon Myth

How many fish can comfortably inhabit a 10-gallon tank? Many fish keepers will automatically go to the inch-per-gallon rule when stocking an aquarium. This old rule states that you can keep 1 inch of fish for every gallon of water in your tank.

In many cases, this can be good advice, but there are always exceptions to any rule! For example, ten 1-inch-long fish might sound just fine for a 10-gallon tank, but one 10-inch fish will obviously be too big for the same fish tank.

Of course, you can keep more fish of a small species in a tank than the same number of larger fish. It is equally important to understand that not all fish have the same needs.

Keeping too many fish in your tank creates a few different problems. The obvious issue is that the fish will feel cramped and not be able to behave naturally. Poor water quality problems are just as serious, if not more so!

The more fish you have in a tank, the more waste they are going to produce. This waste can cause big problems if not managed, and the results can be tragic for your pets. Beefing up your filtration and maintenance, and growing plenty of live plants can increase the number of fish you can keep, but there are definitely limits.

Aquariums Hold Less Water Than You’d Think

Another important thing to remember is that a ten-gallon aquarium usually doesn’t hold a full 10 gallons of water. Your aquarium is never completely full either because you’ll want to leave just a little room to prevent spilling during feeding and maintenance.

Along with the water, your aquarium will probably contain:

• 1-3 inches of substrate
• Hardware like the heater, filter, thermometer, etc.
• Hardscape features like rocks and driftwood
• Ornaments and decorations

As you can tell, your ten-gallon tank will not be able to house 10 inches of fish if you follow the inch-per-gallon rule. In fact, you’d need to bump the number down to about 8 inches.

The Characteristics of the Ideal Nano

In the aquarium hobby, very small fish are generally known as nano fish. But what makes a good nano fish? The following factors are all important characteristics:

Size

Of course, a fish for small aquariums should not outgrow its tank. This is one of the biggest mistakes beginners make when choosing new fish at the pet store.

90% of the fish you see in their tanks are juveniles, and have a whole lot of growing to do! Always make sure to research the adult size of a fish before taking it home.

Hardiness

The tank environment can be a lot less stable than the natural habitat of freshwater fish. This is especially true in small tanks like 10 gallons. The easiest nano fish are the hardy species that can survive fluctuations in water parameters and conditions.

Behavior

Size and hardiness are extremely important characteristics, but understanding the natural behavior of a fish species is just as crucial. Aggressive, territorial fish like male bettas can do great in small aquariums, but only if they are the only member of their species in the tank!

Other awesome nano species like the freshwater pea puffer are less particular about who they’ll attack and they should only be kept with their own species, or on their own in smaller tanks.

Finally, the ideal nano fish does not require too much swimming space, because there isn’t much room in a nano aquarium.

How To Set Up the Aquarium

After you’ve chosen the kind of fish you want to keep, the next step is to learn how to provide them with the perfect home.

A great place to start is to look at the natural habitat of the fish you keep, whether you’re setting up a community tank or keeping just one fish species. In this section, I’ll give you a quick rundown of what you’ll need.

Filtration

An aquarium filter is a must-have for any 10-gallon tank. The only question is, which type of filter should you get? There are many different types of aquarium filters available on the market today, and you will need to select a model that suits your tank size, fish type, and budget.

For the ultimate display tank, I suggest a small canister filter. These filters create a much more natural look by taking up no room in the tank (apart from the intake and outflow pipes, of course). Hang-on back and internal power filters are also great options, and even the humble sponge filter will provide great filtration, at a very reasonable price.

Whichever type of filter you choose to run, make sure it is rated to at least 10 gallons. You can certainly use a filter designed for larger tanks too, the only consideration is that you do not want to blast your fish with an overly strong water flow!

Heating

Most of the aquarium fish and inverts in the hobby are tropical species, which means they are at home in warm temperatures. If you live in a tropical part of the world, you might be able to get away with an unheated tank.

Using an aquarium heater is usually the best option no matter where you live, however, because it maintains stable temperatures. A small aquarium thermometer mounted somewhere in the tank is also very handy for monitoring the performance of the heaters in your fish tanks.

Lighting

Your choice of lighting is very broad unless you are going to be growing live plants. Even then, standard LED or fluorescent lighting will usually work just fine for low-light species like Java ferns. For plants that require moderate to high light, you’re going to need some good quality lights in the correct spectrum for live plants.

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I recommend running your lights for 6-10 hours a day to provide your fish with a natural photoperiod. Setting your lights on a timer is the best way to keep the timing consistent.

Maintenance

Having a fully cycled aquarium with all the equipment and the perfect nano fish for your ten-gallon setup is not the only thing you need to maintain an awesome fish tank. You’ll also need to roll up your sleeves on a regular basis to keep your tank clean and your fish happy.

Read on for a brief introduction to tank maintenance.

Water Quality

Water quality decreases over time as fish waste and uneaten food accumulate in the tank. Although your filter will go a long way towards maintaining good water quality, there’s no way to get around performing regular partial water changes.

This is so important because nitrates will eventually build up to high enough levels to poison your pets. Physical waste will also accumulate on the substrate and hardscape in your tank, which doesn’t look so great.

Testing

A basic test kit is an absolute must-have for any aquarist. They are vital for testing to determine your pH, hardness, and other parameters, and to determine when your tank is cycled.

You’ll also need to test your nitrate levels regularly to work out the ideal frequency and volume of water changes necessary for your setup.

Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

The best time to clean up your aquarium is while you are performing water changes. Since you will be siphoning water out of your tank, you may as well suck up all the waste on the substrate and hardscape with your gravel vacuum at the same time!

Algae can be removed from the glass and hardscape with an algae scraper and a small brush. You will also need to rinse out your filter media from time to time.

This should only be done with conditioned water or old water that you have taken out during a water change. This will keep your hard-working beneficial bacteria safe from the harmful chemicals in tap water.

Growing Plants

Growing live plants in your aquarium has a number of great benefits. In case you aren’t already convinced, here are 5 reasons to grow live plants in your ten-gallon aquarium:

• Live plants provide your fish with a more natural habitat
• Micro-organisms that grow on live plants are a great food source for small fish
• Live plants oxygenate the water
• Plants use nitrates as a fertilizer
• Growing live plants is fun!

Live plants do best with good lighting. Choose a light that is specifically designed for aquarium plants for the best growth. Once you’re a little more experienced, you may want to invest in a CO2 injection system for a densely planted tank with the most beautiful plants.

Creating a ten-gallon aquascaped aquarium with amazing nano fish is a challenging but hugely rewarding goal for any aquarist!

Where To Buy The Aquarium

Most of the species in this list can be found at your local fish store. Trusted online fish dealers are another great place to find nano fish. Buying online also takes a lot of the hassle and stress out of transporting sensitive fish for longer distances.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

A 10-gallon tank freshwater aquarium is a great size for your bedroom or even your desk at the office. Now that you’ve been introduced to different species of nano fish and inverts, which species will you choose?

Let us know below, we’d love to hear from you! If you are looking for fish for a 20 gallon tank, check out this article.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Aquarium shrimp range from bulletproof cherry shrimp to fragile crystal reds that die if you look at them wrong. Choosing the right species is the difference between a thriving colony and an empty tank.

Start with neocaridina. Graduate to caridina. Skip that order and you will kill expensive shrimp.

Start with neocaridina. Graduate to caridina. Skip that order and you will kill expensive shrimp.

What Are Aquarium Shrimps?

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are tiny crustaceans from the Atyidae family. Although there are many different colors available, most of them have been produced through selective breeding and there are just a few very popular species.

The 3 most commonly kept groups of freshwater aquarium shrimps are:

• Caridina species like the Taiwan bee shrimp
• Neocaridina species like the cherry shrimp
• Palaemonetes species like the ghost shrimp

Other freshwater shrimp types that are kept include:

• Atyopsis species like the bamboo shrimp
• Atya species like the vampire shrimp
• Macrobrachium species like the Indian whisker shrimp

Neocaridina vs Caridina

The Neocaridina and Caridina genera are the two most popular aquarium shrimp, and they have been bred into an amazing variety of colors and patterns. Apart from their different color patterns, these freshwater shrimp look very similar, and you need a very well-trained eye to tell them apart based on their body structures.

Nevertheless, these animals come from two distinct genera and cannot breed together. They also have pretty different needs which makes it very important to know exactly which kind of shrimp you are caring for.

The Neocaridina genus includes very popular dwarf shrimp species like red cherry shrimp, babaulti shrimp, and snowball shrimp. Neocaridina species are ideal beginner shrimps that tend to be easy to care for and breed.

Caridina shrimp are better for more experienced shrimp keepers. These awesome animals include freshwater shrimp species like the Sulawesi shrimp/cardinal shrimp.

Top 15 Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Types

Now that you know a little more about the different types of freshwater shrimps, it’s time to get into the fun stuff, and get to know the best-looking and most useful shrimp types for your tank!

For each freshwater shrimp species I’ll be listing the following important care information that you need to know:

• Species
• Difficulty Level
• Adult Size
• pH
• TDS
• GH
• KH
• Diet
• Difficulty to breed
• Gestation Period
• Planted tank suitability

Below is a video from our YouTube Channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe to us on YouTube where we post new videos every week!

So let’s meet some interesting inverts!

1. Fire Red Cherry Shrimp

Fire Red Cherry Shrimp

High quality Cherry Shrimp can now be shipped directly to your door! These premium quality cherry shrimp are a great way to stock your tank!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Number one on this list has to be the fire red cherry shrimp. This is a really popular freshwater shrimp with deeps. This cherry shrimp that is easy to care for and actually helps maintain your tank!

The fire red cherry shrimp is the ideal choice for beginners because they are hardy and easy to feed and breed. These active shrimp are very entertaining and work great in a planted nano tank. Neocaridina davidi is an adaptable species that is kept in temperatures between about 60°F and 85°F.

2. Amano

Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!

Amano Shrimp

Best For Planted Tanks!

When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina multidentata/ C. Japonica
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• pH: 6.5-8
• TDS: 80-450 ppm
• GH: 1-15dGH
• KH: 1-10dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Amano shrimp was introduced to the hobby by Takashi Amano way back in the 1980s. Since then, these excellent inverts have been a staple in the planted tank hobby because they are algae eaters which makes them a great part of any clean-up crew. They are one of the few shrimps that are known for eating black brush algae.

Amano shrimps are a little larger than cherry shrimp and tend to be relatively long-lived. While they might not have the same bright colors as some of the other Caridina species, The ‘natural’ look is great for nature aquariums. They also will only breed with the same species and cannot successfully reproduce in freshwater only!

3. Blue Dream

Awesome Blues!

Blue Dream Shrimp

The Blue Dream Shrimp is a great shrimp if you are looking for blues in your aquarium. Also a hardy shrimp!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Blue animals is pretty hard to find for freshwater aquariums. Fortunately, the blue dream shrimp is an excellent exception!

These unique and eyecatching forms of the popular cherry shrimp are just as easy to care for but provide a different dimension of color. These inverts provide a number of benefits for the health of your aquarium, just like regular cherry shrimp.

4. Sunkist Orange

Sunkist Orange Shrimp

These orange shrimp make great additions in a shrimp only or freshwater planted tank. Low maintenance and easy to care for!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Sunkist orange is another color variant of Neocaridinia davidi, and these guys really know how to brighten up an aquarium! These shrimp look amazing in planted tanks with a dark substrate that makes their colors pop.

They are also known as orange sakura shrimp, and they are pretty hardy and low maintenance. These shrimp are another great choice for beginner shrimp keepers.

5. Yellow Goldenback

Yellow Goldenback Shrimp

The goldenback offers a yellow shrimp with a translucent line on the middle of their backs. They look amazing in dark backgrounds

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The yellow goldenback shrimp is another form of the cherry shrimp. In terms of color, these inverts pack a lot of punch for such a small animal. These shrimp have a solid gold-yellow line along their back from their nose to their tail, and the rest of the body is a translucent yellow color.

6. Tangerine Tiger

Tangerine Tiger Shrimp

This variety of shrimp offers an orange color with black strips that resemble a tiger. Beginner friendly and will not breed with neocardina shrimp

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina serrata
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6.5-7.8
• TDS: 100-250ppm
• GH: 5-6dGH
• KH: 0-5dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The tangerine tiger is a relatively hardy Caridina species. Like the popular Amano shrimp, these crustaceans make a great addition to your tank as a dedicated member of the clean-up crew.

These shrimp are a great starter for keepers who are new to the world of Caridina, and they can even be mixed with Neocaridina species because they will not breed together.

7. Crystal Red

Crystal Red Shrimp

A beautiful looking freshwater shrimp that is more on the difficult side of keeping. A hallmark among shrimp hobbyists

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6-7.5
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The crystal red shrimp is cool-water shrimp that is most at home in water between 64°F and 76°F. They were originally bred from the Taiwan Bee shrimp and their bold colors are reminiscent of the koi fish.

To achieve these colors, they have been selectively bred, and today they are available in a variety of grades. The crystal red shrimp is one of the best-looking inverts in the hobby, but they do require more experience and they tend to be fairly expensive.

8. Green Jade

Deep Green Colors!

Green Jade Shrimp

The Green Jade Shrimp is the best shrimp to buy if you are looking for striking green colors

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The green jade shrimp is a beautiful color variant of the popular cherry shrimp. They have very similar markings to the yellow goldenback, with the same ‘racing stripe’ along their back. They differ in their amazing jade-green body color.

9. Blue Bolt

Blue Bolt Shrimp

The blue bolt shrimp is a Caridina shrimp that offers blue and white colors

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5.6-6.2
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The blue bolt shrimp is a stunning, but difficult to keep, cross between the Taiwan Bee shrimp and the crystal black shrimp. These eye-catching shrimp have speckled whitish bodies, with blue heads and reddish eyes.

10. Red Rili

Red Rili Shrimp

A striking red and white shrimp that is hardy and easier to care for

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The red rili shrimp is a great option for inexperienced keepers who want the red and white colors of something like a crystal red. As a product of selective breeding of the cherry shrimp, they are relatively hardy. Unlike the more expensive crystal shrimp, red rili shrimp have more translucent bodies.

11. Glass (Ghost)

• Shrimp Species: Palaemonetes sp.
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 7-7.8
• TDS: 150-200
• GH: 3-15dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 3 weeks
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Glass shrimp, which are also known as ghost shrimp, are native to North America. Ghost shrimp are often sold at your local fish store as feeder animals for larger fish, but they actually make awesome pets.

There are a few different species of shrimp known as ghost shrimps, and they get their name from their translucent body. Buying these shrimp is a bit of a gamble because some ghost shrimp species are actually adapted to brackish or salt water.

12. Chocolate

Chocolate Shrimp

A shrimp with a dark brown color that is easy to care for.

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The chocolate or black rose shrimp is a really attractive but understated color morph of the cherry shrimp. Their color varies from an almost red-brown color to brown speckled over a clear yellow body. These shrimp are easy to care for and will be a great addition to a planted tank.

13. Black Pinto

Black Pinto Shrimp

A unique Caridina shrimp with a black and white body and blue highlights. Requires excellent water conditions to keep.

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6-7.5
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The black pinto shrimp is a selectively bred variant of the bee shrimp. These stunning inverts are best suited for more experienced shrimp keepers because they are sensitive and require excellent water conditions.

14. Black King Kong

King Kong Shrimp

An all black shrimp. A rare shrimp that requires extra care to keep

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate- advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5-6
• TDS: 100-200 ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

These incredibly marked inverts are also known as the panda shrimp or black king kong pandas. They are rare and high-end animals, that come at a cost, but they’re worth it if you ask me! If you’re an experienced shrimp keeper, this type is definitely worth considering.

15. Extreme Wine Red

Extreme Wine Red Shrimp

A very popular shrimp that is best suited for experienced shrimp keepers. Dark red and white coloration

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate- Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5-6
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The extreme wine red shrimp has a very dark red body with lighter-colored legs, tail, and mouthparts. Like the black king kong, these valuable shrimp are descendants of the bee shrimp. The extreme wine red is a hugely popular but rare variant that is best suited to experienced aquarists.

Freshwater Aquarium Tank Setup

Shrimp have much the same needs as tropical fish when it comes to their tank set up. This means an adequately sized aquarium with a filter and a heater(in temperate climates) is necessary. Let’s take a look at how to create the perfect tank environment for your shrimp.

Tank Size

Shrimp are very small animals that contribute very little to the bio-load of an aquarium. For this reason, many shrimp keepers are able to maintain their shrimp in tanks of just a few gallons.

For beginners, however, a larger tank of 10 gallons or more will help in maintaining safe, stable water parameters. For the more sensitive Caridina species, a tank of 15-20 gallons is ideal.

Filtration

Filtration is vital in any aquarium, and freshwater shrimp setups are no different. The type of filter you run in your tank is important, however, especially if you are going to be breeding them.

Shrimp are not the strongest swimmers, and they love looking for new places to hide. This can mean trouble and they can easily be sucked into the intake of a power filter.

I would suggest a simple, air-powered sponge filter, although a hang-on back or internal power filter are also good options as long as you set up a prefilter sponge to keep your pets out of the intake. You can make your own prefilter sponge, or select a model that provides this option.

Flow rate is also important when selecting a filter for your shrimp tank. Choosing a model that is designed for your tank size is very important, and an adjustable flow rate will help in keeping the current down.

Substrate

You can keep your shrimp on an inert substrate like sand or gravel. These are good options for non-planted tanks or setups with floating and epiphytic plants.

Active aquarium soils like Tropica Aquarium soil or UNS Controsoil are better options for heavily planted tanks with stem and rosette plants. These soils can also be helpful in buffering the pH and keeping it down to ideal levels.

Tropica Aquarium Soil

A top grade planted tank substrate from Europe. More natural looking than ADA Soil

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Live Plants

Freshwater shrimps do very well in planted tanks. Plants are very helpful for taking up excess nutrients, oxygenating the water, and improving water quality. If you’re new to growing live plants, I would suggest starting out with some easy to grow, low-light plants like:

• Java moss
• Anubias species
• Java fern
• Cryptocoryne species

Shrimp can, however, also be kept in high-tech, CO2-injected tanks, provided the gas is kept in the safe range of below 30 ppm.

Freshwater shrimp are very sensitive to copper found in some plant fertilizers. Keep this in mind when picking up any products for your plants.

Freshwater plants are a very common source of unwanted pests in the aquarium. Don’t be discouraged though, there are safe ways to green up your tank. I would suggest growing tissue culture plants to avoid introducing pests like planaria that can kill shrimp.

Water Parameters

When discussing the needs of freshwater shrimp (or any aquarium fish or plant for that matter), aquarists are most concerned with the following parameters:

• pH: The level of the alkalinity or acidity of the water.
• GH: A measure of dissolved salts (particularly magnesium and calcium) in the water
• KH: A measure of the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. These affect the stability of the pH
• TDS: Total dissolved solids in the water, measured in parts per million

The only way to reliably monitor these parameters is to test them regularly.

Don’t sweat it, you don’t need a degree in chemistry for this. All you need is some simple test kits and a TDS meter to start out. They’re easy to use, and pretty fun too!

My Pick

HM Digital TDS Meter

Readily available online, this TDS Meter is perfect for ensuring your levels are optimum for your shrimp

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Water Quality

Together with the parameters listed above, there are some other chemicals found in your water that increase when uneaten fish food and waste accumulate. These are nitrogen compounds called Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. These parameters should be kept at:

• Ammonia: 0ppm
• Nitrite: 0ppm
• Nitrate:<20 ppm

These parameters can also be tested with your strip tests.

Before adding any shrimp to an aquarium, make sure it is fully cycled. A cycled aquarium will not produce any ammonia or nitrite as these harmful chemicals are converted into nitrates by beneficial bacteria.

If this sounds like a different language to you, go ahead and check out my article on fishless cycling.

A build-up of nitrates is to be expected in any tank. This is easily managed by performing regular partial water changes.

Care

Freshwater shrimp are easy to care for once you get the basics right. Shrimp are small, sensitive creatures, so slowly and carefully acclimating them to your tank is important. They are naturally social creatures, so make sure you keep them in a group of at least 10 or so.

Read on for some more important shrimp care tips.

Feeding

Shrimp are often kept as part of an aquarium’s clean-up crew. Some species like the Amano shrimp eat algae, and most shrimp will be more than happy to pick up the scraps of leftover fish food. Other freshwater shrimp species like bamboo shrimps, for example, are actually filter feeders.

In the right sort of setup, you might not have to feed your shrimp at all, but this is only really safe in mature established tanks that have some algae and other natural food sources.

, you’ll want to feed your shrimp a healthy, balanced diet. This is done once per day, and remember to avoid overfeeding. Let’s take a look at some good freshwater aquarium shrimp food sources:

• Dennerle Shrimp King Food
• SL-aqua spinach powder
• Repashy gel food
• Blanched vegetables

My Pick

Dennerle Shrimp King Food

Great For Freshwater Shrimp!

A color enhancing food for shrimp that will help intensify yellows, oranges, and most importantly red!

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Maintenance

Shrimp need good water quality, and that means regular tank maintenance is necessary. You will need to perform a regular water change in the aquarium once a week or so to remove physical waste and reduce the nitrate levels in the water.

Great care is necessary since shrimp are small and can easily be sucked up by your gravel vacuum. A good workaround for this problem is to fit some fine mesh or stocking over the end of the gravel vacuum.

Be sure to treat the new water with a water conditioner and match the temperature to your tank water before adding it to your aquarium.

Tankmates

One of the most common questions aquarists ask is what kind of fish they can keep with their shrimp. Most shrimp make incredibly peaceful tank mates, but the challenge is that other animals tend to kill or eat them. Unfortunately, this means they don’t always work well in a community tank.

Freshwater snails are one of the best tank mates for your shrimp. I would suggest nerites and mystery snails because they will not breed out of control and compete with your shrimp for food resources.

There are very few fish that are completely shrimp-safe, especially if you are breeding your shrimp. Even adult shrimp is picked at by surprisingly small fish. To be completely safe, a shrimp-only tank is your best bet.

Keeping fish with your shrimp is possible, however. Let’s take a look at a few potential peaceful fish tank mates:

• Nano livebearers like Endler’s livebearers
• Nano tetras like ember tetras
• Nano rasboras
• Some algae eaters like Otocinclus catfish and small plecos

When choosing fish as tank mates, it is best to assume that any species is a potential threat to your baby shrimp. To be on the safe side, make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces for your shrimp in case they need to retreat from their tank mates!

Breeding

Breeding your aquarium shrimp is very easy (video source). The secret to success is simply to provide your shrimp with excellent water quality and the parameters they need to stay healthy. This is a lot easier to do with hardy Neocaridina shrimp species than the sensitive Caridina species.

Although the males tend to be a little smaller, sexing your shrimp is very difficult. For this reason, stating your shrimp colony with at least 10 individuals is recommended since this should provide you with at least a few of either sex.

If your shrimp are happy and healthy, you will probably be amazed to see tiny shrimp in the tank after a little while. Specialist baby shrimp foods are available to give the little ones the perfect nutrition.

Baby shrimp will often be eaten pretty quickly in a community fish tank. Providing them with plenty of cover in the form of floating plants is one way to minimize your losses, but it’s far better to grow your colony in a shrimp-only tank.

Avoid keeping different colors variants in the same tank if you’re going to be breeding your shrimp for specific colors. If they aren’t kept separately, they will breed together and lose their colors, producing pretty dull-looking offspring.

Where To Buy

If you’re looking for ghost shrimp, they is found at your local fish store or even big box stores. For the higher quality and higher grade shrimp, I would check out an online fish store like Buce Plant. Not only do they stock an amazing range, but you can also pick up a couple of tissue culture plants from them at the same time to really get your tank started!

My Pick

Buce Plant

Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

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FAQS

Final Thoughts

Freshwater shrimp are wonderful pets. They don’t need a lot of space, and they’re just as entertaining as fish (if you ask me anyway). The ongoing development of this side of the hobby is very exciting and I can’t wait to see which new breeds and species of shrimp will become available!

Which of the 15 shrimp types in this list do you like best? Let me know below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

What are axolotls?

Before digging further, let’s give a quick review of what actually axolotls are and how are they different from other salamanders.

Axolotls are amphibians. However, unlike salamanders, they spend most of their lives underwater. They are close relatives of Tiger salamander and range up to a foot in length. (quite a large size for salamanders)

They showcase mottled brown and black colors. However, in some rare and costly varieties, Albino and Leucistic axolotls display a translucent white color with shiny gold flecks and red or pink feathery gills.

How are they different from other salamanders?

Axolotls charm marine experts for their retention of features from the larval stage.

If you’ve seen tadpoles, you know what I’m talking about!

Amphibians; in general, go through a process called metamorphosis. It is a process in which an animal goes through certain developmental changes in the body structure. However, this process doesn’t apply to axolotls.

Axolotls, even in their adulthood retain their larval features including tadpole-like fins and external feathery gills.

One enticing thing about axolotls is that they take their regeneration to the next level. It would surprise you that axolotls cannot only regenerate tissues, but limbs, brains, spines, and even jaws!

How Much Do Axolotls cost?

The average cost of an axolotl doesn’t end with its purchase.

There are several other costs involved; the axolotl tank, accessories, delivery fees, recurring costs, monthly cost, yearly cost, and much more!

So, let’s go budgeting!

The Initial Cost

Axolotls are inexpensive exotic pets with an initial cost of around $30 to $100; that too for basic and juvenile axolotls.

The price, however, varies for exotic or adult axolotls. Depending on the rarity of morph and the health of the axolotl, rare axolotls like piebald axolotl cost around $100.

The adult Golden Albino axolotl costs around $45. Meanwhile, other varieties with exceptional pigmentations would cost you around $300 to $1500.

Shipping

If you’ve ordered your axolotl online through a reputable store, be sure to add a few bucks (say $40 to $60) as a flat rate of the shipping cost for each pet.

The Tank

So, this is where your actual expenses lie. An axolotl needs a larger tank than any other amphibian.

That’s because they spend their whole time underwater and the smallest tank you can accommodate for young axolotls is 10 gallons. 

For a mature axolotl tank, a standard 20 gallons aquarium would suffice.

However, it’s not just the tank that counts.

Since your smiling pets would be captive-bred animals, they would need ample lighting and filtration. Some pet stores offer various aquarium kits and ensembles that include LED lighting, filtration device and cartridges, heating devices, and other tank decors.

The overall tank setup would cost you somewhere between $100 to $300 approximately.

Recurring Costs

Lucky for you; axolotls are exclusively captive pets.

And on top of all that, they have exceptional regenerative abilities. It makes it easier to minus the health problems of axolotls and clinical attention.

However, I still recommend visiting the vet once a year to rule out any medical abnormalities in your pet.

Basically, the only recurring cost left is food.

Axolotls enjoy a protein-rich diet including brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms. Many novice keepers make the mistake to feed feeder fish and mice to their diet. I strongly discourage live or dead food as it may introduce bacterial and parasitic infections to the tank.

Hence, the annual recurring cost of grown-up axolotls that feed twice weekly is estimated to be around $50.

Medical Care

I have rarely seen an axolotl falling sick and dying of a fatal disease.

However, they are living beings and require regular medical upkeep. As a responsible axolotl owner, you should make a yearly visit to the vet to avoid deadly diseases or aliments.

Factors Affecting the Price of This Pet

No two axolotls are the same. And that applies to their cost as well. There are a number of factors that affect the axolotl price.

Morph Rarity

When it comes to axolotl price, it mostly depends on the rarity of color. There are some varieties that are extremely rare, and hence the fancy price tag. Meanwhile, the common and basic morphs are inexpensive and easily available in pet stores.

Age

Age is also an essential factor in determining the cost of an axolotl. Adult axolotls sell at a higher price than juveniles. That’s because mature axolotls are easy to care for and friendly.

Health Conditions

While visiting the pet store, you may encounter the same morph axolotls selling at a low cost than some others. That is mainly because of their health conditions.

A healthy axolotl would retail at a much higher price than the ones in poor conditions.

I advise inspecting the axolotl before making your valuable purchase. An unhealthy axolotl will most likely be lethargic and unresponsive.

Breeder

The price also varies from breeder to breeder. Some breeders charge higher prices due to their reputation or brand name. Other breeders may charge nominal rates for a basic morph.

Requirements for the Tank

Like I said before, the prices for axolotls vary depending on their pigmentation and health. However, it’s the tank cost that makes the difference.

Along with a larger tank, axolotls require several other essentials to keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives.

I have prepared a thorough list for pet owners to guide through the proper requirements and estimated costs of an axolotl tank.

The Aquarium

Estimated cost: $25 – 100

Happy axolotls are the best.

And what keeps the axolotl happy is a long aquarium around 30 inches in length.

For your convenience, I would suggest a standard 20-gallon long tank for an adult axolotl that provides much room for movement. For the best price, you can consider buying a cheap one used or waiting for a local chain pet store’s dollar per gallon sale.

Also, axolotls prefer dim lights. And so, I encourage placing some type of hide in the aquarium for them to get shade.

Reptile Hide

Hides are common place in the reptile word. Excellent for creating a safe space for your reptiles and amphibians

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Filtration

Estimated Cost: Less than $100 – $150+

You can cut the cost of filtration only if you promise to change the water regularly. 

Yes, you can go cheap on filtration for axolotls if you are willing to do more water changes. However, I recommend installing canister filters in axolotl’s water tank.

You might wonder why.

Well, axolotls produce a lot of waste, which means a lot of ammonia. And they are extremely sensitive to poor water conditions. Therefore, installing a high quality filter would be the safest option.

Also, canister filters, although difficult to maintain, provide enough room for biomedia and gentle water flow to keep your pets healthy.

A good-quality canister filter costs less than $100 and lasts much longer than expected. Fluvals would be consider top-tier for a Axolotl tank, but you can do well with a budget canister like a Sun Sun.

Best Value

Fluval Canister Filters

Our Subscriber’s Choice

Top name brand, Italian made, and updated design. The next gen Fluval Canisters are a best buy!

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Substrates

Estimated Cost: $15 – $25

You have to be very finicky while choosing the substrate for axolotl.

Since axolotls have delicate skin, the hard or sharp substrate might cause potential injuries to your axolotl. The costs of substrate or aquarium sand should cost you no more than $10 or $15. 

Natural Fine Sand

I always recommend natural fine sand substrates for the axolotl aquariums. (with caution, of course)

If you choose natural sand substrates, make sure to avoid Calcium Carbonate sand as it might disrupt the pH levels of the tank.

Also, I recommend stirring the sand once in a while to help prevent the buildup of air gases and bacteria.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Rocks and Gravels

Always remember; the larger the rocks, the better!

Axolotls have delicate mouths, and they suck in their food.

If you use rocks that are too small, your axolotl will suffer from intestinal blockage and experience several health problems.

Also, rocks and gravels should be smooth-edged and rounded. For younger axolotls (under 6 inches/15 cm long), avoid using any rocks or substrate at all. 

Lighting

Estimated cost: less than $50

Fun fact: Axolotls do not have eyelids!

And so, strong lighting overwhelms them.

If you want to install lighting sources, always go for LED aquarium lights that are dimmable.

However, the best advice I can give you is to utilize natural lighting. Axolotls do not require lighting, nor does the tank. But, if you have live plants, you can always opt for Planted Tank LED lights that are adjustable.

This way, the tank also doesn’t heat up and water temperature is maintained throughout.

The lighting cost for an axolotl tank should cost you around $50 for a premium-quality, adjustable LED aquarium light.

Water Temperature & Chiller

Estimated Cost: $10 – $15

One thing that makes Axolotls challenging for beginners is their demand for optimal water temperatures.

The ideal water temperature for Axolotls ranges from 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, in some rare cases, they have adapted to water temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

According to experts, Axolotls show sluggish behavior below 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and higher temperatures might trigger serious diseases. Also, temperature fluctuations is detrimental to your axolotl, as they are sensitive to them.

Therefore, in hotter climates, it is a challenge to maintain water temperature, an aquarium chiller should be installed to ensure water stays cool enough.

A fan costs around $10 and can work exceptionally well in keeping your tank water cool.

Aquarium Cooling Fan

Aquarium cooling fans are cheap and effective ways of pushing heat away from the aquarium

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Even in cooler climates, a heater for an axolotl tank is not needed as the temperatures rarely fall below the their preferred ranges. If needed, the LED lighting or natural source of light would provide enough heat to the tank. Having a lid on the aquarium will also keep heat inside

Decoration

Estimated Cost: Around $50

Axolotls appreciate decorations as much as other aquarium pets.

However, you have to be extra careful with the decors you choose for your smiling pet.

I always suggest live plants for axolotl tank as they like sitting on them. Low light plants like Java fern,, Java Moss, Eludia, Marimo moss ball, and floating plants like Amazon Frogbits, and Water Lettuce are some excellent options for axolotl.

Nevertheless, axolotls do great without live plants. If you want to adorn your tank, feel free to add fake (plastic) plants as they require zero maintenance and lighting.

Additionally, to offer some safe places to hide, you can invest in high-quality hides for the axolotl, such as Cichlid rocks or Ceramic pipes, dragon stones, river rocks. Rock structures are also a great addition to an axolotl aquarium, which costs around $50 each.

You can add absolutely anything, just make sure the edges of objects are not sharp to avoid injuries.

Water De-chlorinator

Estimated cost: $10

Water de-chlorinator is something that your axolotl would thank you for!

Axolotls make a lot of mess in their natural habitat and things are no different in the home aquariums. Therefore, the tap water needs to be de-chlorinated every now and then to make it axolotl-friendly.

I always recommend installing water de-chlorinators in your axolotl tanks.

They are cheap and readily available in the market and cost around $10 or so. I recommend Seachem Prime.

My Pick

Seachem Prime

Seachem prime is a easy to use and affordable choice when it comes to remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water. Highly recommended!

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The Total Costs of Owning This Pet

Now that I’ve covered everything, let’s break all the expenses down for you.

The initial cost of an small axolotl is around $30 to $100, depending upon the breed and variation you opt for.

However, if you buy your axolotl online, it might cost you an additional $40 to $60 due to shipping and morphs (since online sellers tend to have better morphs).

For an adult, you need a large tank of around 20-gallons. This would cost you around $200 to $300 with all the required devices.

Lastly, the complete axolotl aquarium setup would cost you around $150 to $600 minus the food and water therapy.

Also, baby axolotl needs to eat more frequently than adults. But as they grow, they require less feeding and more maintenance. 

So, axolotls are amazing pets that are quite inexpensive as compared to other exotic pets. And the total cost you pay or spend on your smiling pals is worth every penny.

FAQS

The Chimera and Mosaic axolotls are only sold through specialized sellers. The Enigma axolotls are worth around $1500.

The piebald axolotl costs around $300. The Firefly and Lavender axolotl cost somewhere between $250 to $115 each.

Are they good pets?

Axolotls are interesting creatures.

They are hardy, always smiling, easy to look after, and easy to feed.

Just what an axolotl owner needs!

However, they might not be the best fit for novice keepers as there are a few things to consider;

1. Temperature for axolotls should be between 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything more or less than that may put your pet under stress
2. Since they have a sensitive mouth, the substrate or decors used should be of high quality and kept clean
3. They demand clean water filtration. Therefore, a high-quality filter is recommended

Final Thoughts

Now you know what it costs to own an axolotl.

Besides everything, make sure to keep the water clean, and water temperatures maintained for your walking fish to stay healthy and smiling. The price that starts from $30 may touch $600 or so after complete tank setup. So, I believe it’s not much to invest given the joy and how long these animals live.

Got any comments to share? Leave a comment below and let’s get a conversation going!

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Here’s what you need to know when considering tank mates for your Mexican walking fish.

Understanding Your Axolotl

An axolotl is a freshwater bottom-dwelling aquatic salamander that prefers to keep to itself. They do best when kept on their own in an aquarium with slow-moving water.

Despite being antisocial, axolotls are very peaceful creatures. They spend most of their time exploring the bottom of the tank at their own, slow pace. They are also nocturnal which means they will mostly come out at night when the aquarium lights are off.

Keep in mind that Axolotls are carnivores that like to hunt live food¹. This means that they may sneak up on resting fish and make a quick snack out of them., their slow-moving nature ensures the safety of other small fish.

Axolotls are cold water critters. Due to the temperature of the water being so low, it will be unsuitable for a large variety of other freshwater creatures.

What Makes a Good Mate for Your Fish?

If you’re considering upgrading your axolotl tank into a community aquarium, there are a few things to keep in mind. Axolotls thrive when kept in isolation. That said, you can try to keep them with other aquatic critters.

Not all fish are good tank mates for axolotls. Those that make the cut are peaceful fish that also keep to themselves. Another requirement is being adapted to cool water aquariums.

You might notice your axolotls having a go at their tank buddies, even if they can’t eat them. That’s why it’s important to choose critters that can’t fit into the axolotl’s mouth.

This brings us to the next point, the critters you keep need to be fast enough to escape. Axolotls will try to hunt any live fish and other critters in the same tank as them. If you’re having problems, rather keep your freshwater fish in separate aquariums.

Why Some Fish Aren’t Suitable

Some critters just aren’t suitable axolotl tank mates. Here’s why.

• Water temperature

Axolotls prefer cool water. That’s why you can’t add any tropical fish to their tanks. The water is simply too cold. You need an aquarium chiller to keep the water cool in water climates.

• Temperament

Any aggressive or territorial fish is a bad idea. These creatures will harass your salamander and injure it in the process. Highly active swimmers also aren’t suitable. Their movements will stress your axolotl.

• Health risks

Some freshwater critters pose a health risk to your axolotls. Cory Catfish, for instance, have sharp spines on their pectoral and dorsal fins. These can injure your axolotl if it tries to eat them.

Small fish and mini snails can also be a choking hazard and can lead to impaction. Some critters also carry diseases.

• Direct competition

Other bottom-dwelling fish aren’t a good idea either. Bottom feeders are in direct competition for food. This means your axolotl might bully its tank buddies to get to the food.

If the other critters are very voracious eaters, they also won’t do. Axolotls eat slowly which means they won’t be able to compete for food with other bottom-dwelling fish.

How to Set Up A Community Aquarium

Setting up a community tank is quite simple. Here’s what you need to know:

Aquarium Setup

The minimum size for a one adult axolotl tank is 20 gallons. If you’re thinking of adding two adult axolotls to the same tank, this will be an added cost. You will need to jump to a 55-gallon tank for a pair of axolotls. Similarly, if you’re adding other fish or creatures, start with a minimum of 55 gallons. Bigger is always better, so if you have the space, go bigger.

Substrate

The best substrate for axolotl community tanks is sand since they like to dig. This gives the axolotl something to do instead of chasing the other community creatures around.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Water Parameters For The Aquarium

Axolotls have very specific needs when it comes to their tank water. Any tank mates you plan on adding should also have the same preferences. Take a look at the following axolotl water parameters to compare them to the requirements of the chosen tank mates.

• Water temperature: Cold water is a must, keep the temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature is between 60 and 64 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 18°C).
• pH: Axolotls prefer a pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for this species will be 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14dGH)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Filtration

It doesn’t matter if an axolotl is in its larval stage or already an adult, they all require a tank with good filtration and slow-moving water. Any tank mates chosen to join an axolotl aquarium should also be happy with this setup.

Axolotl owners prefer to use sponge filters in their aquariums. These filters can circulate a large amount of water in a short time without creating a lot of flow in the tank. This is absolutely essential for the messy axolotl.

Decor Considerations

Make sure there are enough hiding spots in your tank. Axolotls prefer to hide away from light. Other creatures in the aquarium will also need a place to relax where they don’t feel threatened by the axolotl. Add some driftwood, rocks, hides, or plants to your tank to create a range of hiding spots to choose from.

Lighting

Other fish may prefer tanks with lights. If this is the case, make sure the axolotl has a dark spot to hide in. It’s best to get tank mates that also prefer a dim interior for a happy community.

Before running to the pet store, make sure to do some research first. There are only a few fish that is safely kept in the same tank as an axolotl. Even so, these communities are never without their risks. Here’s a list of some suitable tank mate options for your axolotl (And a video by yours truly for those who would rather watch).

Top 5 Axolotl Tank Mates

Let’s look at the best tankmates for these “walking fish.”

1. Other Types

Adult axolotls make great tank mates. It’s best to keep a male and female together, but you can also keep same-gender axolotls together if you don’t want any babies.

You can tell a male from a female axolotl by looking at the cloaca (opening under the tale). In males, the cloaca protrudes quite a bit while it sits nearly flat against the belly in females.

It’s best to not keep a smaller axolotl with a fully matured one. Don’t keep juvenile axolotls together either. They often display cannibalistic tendencies towards each other. Adults may even eat their larvae if given the chance.

If you see any reoccurring problems, it is better to separate axolotls into different aquariums. One axolotl on its own is best.

2. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White cloud minnows are peaceful cool water fish that can make excellent tank mates for axolotls. Their lack of spines and shells makes them safe for axolotls to eat. Even though this might not be your goal, they will get chowed every now and again.

There is no real way to prevent your axolotls from hunting these fish, so you might want to consider keeping them in separate tanks. Fortunately, minnows are quite fast. They should be able to escape the axolotls unless caught off guard.

3. Guppy Fish

Guppies are another fish species that rarely pose a risk to your axolotls. Unlike the fast white cloud minnows, guppies will be eaten more often. They do sometimes carry diseases, however.

The babies of guppies are often used as feeder fishes. This means that owners intentionally provide these fish as a snack to their axolotls. Baby guppies are small enough to not pose a health risk when swallowed by juvenile axolotls.

Guppies, being livebearers, reproduce very fast. The sudden increase in fish numbers may stress your axolotl despite it having an easy snack.

4. Zebra Danios

Zebra Danios are also great peaceful cool-water fish to consider. They will keep to their shoals and mostly stay away from your axolotl. Again you might see your fish disappear every now and then. Fortunately, zebra danios are very agile fish so they might stand a chance in an axolotl aquarium.

Just because they can swim, however, doesn’t mean your axolotls won’t catch these danios off guard every once in a while.

5. Apple Snails (As adults)

Adult apple snails can safely be kept in the same aquarium as young axolotls. They aren’t small enough for your walking fish to eat. Baby cold water snails like juvenile bladder or ramshorn snails are also safe since they have soft shells.

Adult ramshorn and bladder snails are risky. They are small enough to swallow, but not soft enough to fully digest.

If you want to keep snails, avoid mini snails and stick to adult apple snails. Multi snails can also be risky as they can climb on your axolotl and suck off their slime coats.

Fish You Should AVOID

This list doesn’t include all the fish that are unsuitable for axolotl community tanks. The species here, are mentioned because they may seem to fit the description of the perfect tank mate, but they really aren’t. Keep an eye out for the following critters.

1. Goldfish

Many think goldfish are great tankmates for axolotls since they also like the cold. Unfortunately, that isn’t true of these freshwater fish. Goldfish have quite a bad reputation for being fin nippers. They also get big which makes harassing your beloved salamander easier.

Goldfish tend to nip at the fins and gills of the axolotl which causes stress and injury to your pet. They also produce a lot of waste which isn’t ideal when added to the mess axolotls already make.

The only goldfish varieties that may work in an Axolotl tank are fancy goldfish. These fish are just as slow as your Axolotl which gives it a chance to nip back. The goldfish will quickly learn to avoid the axolotl. They still pose a choking hazard when they are small, however, even more so due to how slow they are.

If you decide to use fancy goldfish with your axolotl, make sure to get a very large tank to accommodate the mess. If you don’t have the space, rather choose one of the suitable options mentioned above.

2. Cory Catfish

Cory catfish are very peaceful critters, but they aren’t good for axolotl tanks. These fish have sharp spines on their dorsal and pectoral fins that will injure your axolotl if it tries to swallow them. They are also bottom feeders which places them in direct competition with the bottom-dwelling axolotl.

3. Otocinclus Catfish

The otocinclus catfish is another fish that may seem completely harmless. Unfortunately, it also has spines like the cory catfish. The otocinclus also prefers fast-moving water and will zip around the aquarium at high speed. These are all characteristics that make it unsuitable as a tank mate for an Axolotl.

4. Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimps aren’t ideal for Axolotl aquariums, in fact, many owners use them as treats for their pets. Small shrimp may stand a chance if there’s sufficient plant cover to hide in. Most of the time, however, they will get gobbled up pretty fast.

Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium. They help to clean up any leftover food. This in turn helps to keep the parameters in your aquarium stable.

Both Amano shrimp and ghost shrimp make perfect snacks for axolotls. You will need to be okay with them being eaten while they keep the tank clean. Axolotls have an excellent sense of smell so these shrimps may not even be safe in dense plant cover.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit about axolotls and the creatures they may get along with, you can make an informed decision on whether or not you should go forward with this plan. Keep in mind that the risks do outweigh the benefits of having buddies in the same aquarium as your axolotls. Isolation is even preferred by these underwater salamanders.

If you have any questions regarding axolotls and the critters that can live with them, leave a comment below.

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Why Are Axolotls Special?

These critters have an amazing ability to fully regenerate missing limbs. For this reason, axolotls are being monitored in many labs to satisfy the curiosity of scientists. Along with lost limbs, they can also regrow other body parts such as the eyes, and even regenerate their spinal cords. This makes them very interesting due to the potential use this ability holds has in human medicine.

How Do They Breed?

Axolotls are egg-layers. The male and female will participate in a mating ritual when ready to breed. To start the courting process, the adult Axolotl male will nudge the hindquarters of the female to see if she is receptive to his advances. The video by Jules Askalotl provides an visual overview of the breeding process.

Once he establishes her willingness to participate, he’ll place himself in front of her and start to lead her around the aquarium. He’ll always make sure that his tail is touching her nose. As he leads her forward, he’ll deposit a packet of sperm known as a spermatophore.

The male will then lead the female over this packet until it lines up with her cloaca (vent or sexual organ). She then absorbs the sperm into her reproductive tract to fertilize her eggs. This process is referred to as indirect fertilization.

Over the next hour, the male will continue leading the female over several packets of sperm until the breeding process is complete. Once done, remove the male to allow the female some peace before the egg-laying starts.

The female will only lay her eggs around 12 to 72 hours later. Your Axolotl may lay up to 1500 eggs on the decor provided, so be prepared. Once the process is complete, make sure to either remove the eggs or the adults. These animals aren’t against eating their own eggs.

It’s also best to remove the breeding pair from community setups with other fish. Some fish will get stressed out by the erratic movements of the adult Axolotl pair during breeding.

What to Do When the Eggs Hatch

Axolotl eggs incubate for around 15 days before hatching if kept at 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C). The hatching will be delayed for a few days more in cooler water.

For optimal larvae growth, make sure to keep the water in the upper-temperature limit. It is also essential to keep the water quality pristine. Axolotl larvae kept in poor water conditions have very poor survival and growth rates.

This means that once the eggs start hatching, you’ll have your hands full with tank maintenance. You will need to do partial water changes every few days to keep the water clean while your baby Axolotls are growing. This is especially important if you have lots of them in one setup.

If you kept all your eggs in one place, you will need to separate your babies into several 20 gallon tanks once they are big enough to be moved. Make sure to not keep more than 100 babies in one place. It is possible to keep up to 200 young axolotls in one aquarium, but this may lead to several unnecessary injuries and even fatalities.

Aquariums with fewer offspring in them have fewer problems such as damaged fins or lost limbs and gills.

Feeding Requirements

Newly hatched Axolotls won’t start feeding immediately after hatching. They only need live foods around 48-72 hours after hatching. In the period between hatching and their first feeding, they will be sustained by the remaining egg yolk in their bellies. The yolk will be visible through the skin as a cream-colored mass.

During this time the young also won’t be moving. Don’t throw them out by accident because they seemed dead. Not moving is completely normal at this stage. You’ll see them start to wiggle around 2 to 3 days after they were born, this is your cue to start feeding them.

Baby axolotls aren’t the easiest to feed. These youngsters require small, live food items in large quantities to keep them sustained. Until the Axolotl larvae grow their front legs, they will also only respond to moving live foods.

Without their legs moving around is a bit challenging for them. This means that they won’t actively try to find food. Make sure to deposit the food in front of them to make sure they are eating. If you fail to provide the right food, they may start to eat each other.

Fortunately, unlike frogs, young Axolotls grow their front legs first. Until they reach this milestone, however, feed easily accessible live food such as newly hatched brine shrimp and daphnia. Once their front legs are developed, they will also have developed a sense of smell. This means it’s time to start introducing dead food items.

You can offer dead food items earlier, but you’ll need to use tweezers and wiggle them around to mimic the movement of live foods to entice your baby Axolotls to eat. This is time-consuming, especially if you need to feed 1500 baby Axolotls. Rather stick to newly hatched brine shrimp and other foods that can wiggle around like daphnia.

What to Feed

Until a baby Axolotl grows its front limbs, you will be limited to only a few live food items. Here are some great snacks for your young pet:

• Newly hatched brine shrimp
• Daphnia
• Microworms
• Freshly chopped up blackworms (they wiggle for a long time after chopping)

Live Daphnia

Water fleas or Daphnia are an excellent live food offering for fish and fry

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Once the baby Axolotl developed its front legs, it will become more mobile and start to actively hunt. At this point, you can start to introduce some dead food items along with fast-moving live food. Here are a few options:

• Frozen brine shrimp
• Frozen bloodworms
• Live mosquito larvae
• Live brine shrimp
• Live bloodworms
• Earthworms

Once the baby axolotl grows its hind legs, it is fed exactly the same as an adult with the exception of the frequency in feeding. Baby axolotls need a lot of food to grow. To keep them healthy, you will need to feed them at least twice a day.

Once these little amphibians have all their legs, you can also start to introduce foods such as Axolotl pellets to their diet. Also, make sure to feed a variety of live and dead food for optimal health and growth. If you can’t find pellet food specifically for Axolotls, you can try feeding others specifically meant for carnivorous fish.

When feeding your baby Axolotls, make sure not to overfeed. If that happens, the uneaten food will start to rot and affect your water quality. Make sure to remove any uneaten food. Next time feed just enough to make sure they can eat all of it in 5 minutes tops. If it’s not eaten, remove it.

Tank Setup

Just like adult Axolotls, babies also need a proper setup to stay healthy. Here’s what you need to know to set up a tank for axolotl babies (Egg picture source).

Tank Size

The minimum tank size requirement for Axolotl larvae is also 20 gallons. Unlike an adult that requires the whole 20 gallons to itself, you can keep up to 200 newly hatched axolotls in the same tank which isn’t that much of a cost.

Keeping that many larvae together, however, is not advised. It’s better to stick to around 100 baby Axolotls together in a tank. This lower number helps to avoid unnecessary death and lost legs.

Once the larvae develop their front legs, you’ll need to divide the colonies into smaller ones yet again. This means that you’ll need several 20-gallon tanks or a super large aquarium. Keep in mind that bigger is always better. More water means fresh water for longer periods between water changes.

For the breeding tank, use a 20-gallon tank. This leaves just enough space to prevent the female from refusing to participate in the mating ritual.

You can keep the eggs in a 10-gallon tank altogether until they hatch. After that, make sure to divide the larvae into smaller communities or transfer them to a larger aquarium.

Water Parameters

Baby Axolotls are a bit more sensitive to water parameters than adults. For this reason, you need to be more vigilant when it comes to aquarium maintenance. Since you’re keeping several larvae in the same tank, you’ll also need to do more water changes to keep the water clean.

Skipping a water change can lead to water quality problems which in turn causes deaths. Also, make sure to treat any water before you put it into your tank. Tap water contains chemicals such as heavy metals and chlorine that will cause deaths.

Here are the water parameters for keeping your Axolotl larvae healthy:

• Water temperature: Keep the water temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for larvae is between 70-72°F (21-22°C).
• pH: Keep the pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for baby axolotl is 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

A baby Axolotl does well in the same temperature range as the adults. For optimal growth, however, you want to keep this baby in slightly warmer water. 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C) is a good start for hatching eggs and growing out newly hatched larvae.

As your baby axolotl grows, you can slowly lower the temperature to between 60 and 64°F (16 – 18°C). This will allow the baby to slowly adapt instead of getting a shock.

Make sure to put an accurate thermometer in your tank to monitor water temperature changes. If the aquarium water is too warm, your baby axolotl will become stressed., you will require a water chiller if the water gets too hot too often or for prolonged periods of time.

In an emergency, you can add frozen cubes of Axolotl-safe water to your aquarium to help cool it down. In the rare event where it gets too cold, simply add an aquarium heater to get it up to the right temperature.

Substrate

The best substrate for Axolotl youngsters is sand. Sand provides some grip on the bottom of the aquarium as well as enrichment. Just like adult axolotls, the youngsters also like to dig through the substrate.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Sand is also safe if accidentally swallowed due to the very small size of the particles. Any kind of gravel should be avoided in larval tanks since it can cause injury and severe health problems.

Setting up a bare bottom aquarium is also possible. This will make cleaning much easier since you can simply suck up any solid waste during a water change.

Tank Decor

It’s always a good idea to have some decor in your tank. A completely empty tank will cause stress to your Axolotl larvae. Aquarium decorations you can consider include the following.

Plants

Plants are great in Axolotl tanks. They provide cover as well as enrichment. Keep in mind that the plants need to grow well in minimal lighting. Low light plants are the best candidates for an Axolotl tank.

Axolotls are nocturnal. For this reason, they have quite poor eyesight and prefer a dark environment. If the lighting in your tank is too strong, your axolotls will always be hiding from it.

It is also best to pick floating plants or those that prefer to grow on other ornaments like Anubias Nana or Java Fern. Axolotls dig a lot. This means that they will disturb and dig up any plants in the substrate.

Driftwood

Driftwood makes excellent places for an Axolotl to hide in and explore. It will also provide a surface for some kinds of plants to grow on. Driftwood also looks great when used on its own.

Hides

It’s very important to provide your Axolotl youngsters with places to hide. You can do this by adding ceramic pipes or other structures to your setup. This is even more important in tanks with lights. Axolotls have very sensitive eye lids and need to escape to a dark corner when the lights are on.

Rocks

Rocks are also an excellent addition to your breeding setup. A large flat rock is ideal for your Axolotls to breed on. Rocks can also be stacked and used to create shelters and hiding spots for the young. If done right, you don’t need anything else in your tank. Rocks make excellent decorations and can also be used to grow some kinds of plants.

Filtration Needs

Baby Axolotls need slow-moving water in their tank. For this reason, you can’t just put any filtration system in there. They also need a strong filtration system due to being such messy creatures, so it’s important that your filter can circulate a large amount of water in a short amount of time.

The best filters for baby Axolotls are sponge filters. These filters can circulate water quite quickly without creating a lot of flow.

Biofoam filters are quite popular for Axolotl setups. These sponge filters will help to clean the water while allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The bacteria in turn will help to keep your water parameters stable.

Baby Axolotls are quite sensitive to parameter changes so it’s best to make sure the tank is properly cycled before breeding with your adults.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about breeding Axolotls and caring for the young, you should have minimal problems doing it yourself. Just remember to set up a decent breeding tank with a proper filtration system and once the young hatch, don’t feed them immediately.

If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Discus are the fish I call the King of the aquarium. And for good reason. I’ve kept discus in dedicated setups and they’re unlike anything else in freshwater. The challenge is real: they demand pristine water, specific temperatures, and more patience than most fish require. But when you get the conditions right, there’s nothing more impressive in a planted tank.

The Discus Fish. To many who are fans of this fish, they are often called the Kings of the Aquarium. The are large, striking, and very beautiful freshwater fish. They are also to many considered a very difficult fish to keep. It is our dream fish and the one we wish we could have, but intimated by what others have said about proper Discus Fish Care.

Today’s blog post is all about Discus Fish Care. My goal here is to really break down Discus Fish care into critical key concepts. If these concepts are followed, you will have much better success than the average Aquarium Discus Fish keeper. I want to make you well informed and armed with the knowledge to become successful and happy with your Discus Aquarium.

Key Takeaways

• Discus fish have very specific requirements compared to most tropical fish – with temperature and pH being the biggest standout
• They are very peaceful fish that can be easily bullied
• They require longer aquariums and high-quality diets
• Example tankmates include neon tetras and cory catfish
• Clean water is a must for them. Frequent water changes and high-end filters are a must!

Discus are the most demanding freshwater fish in the hobby. They need pristine water, elevated temperatures, and a level of consistency that most hobbyists are not prepared to deliver. One missed water change and they stop eating. Inconsistent parameters and they get hole in the head. I have kept discus for over 20 years and I still treat every water change like it matters, because with discus, it does. If your maintenance routine is not rock solid, this fish will punish you for it.

The Reality of Keeping Discus Fish Care

Water parameters are not suggestions. Discus Fish Care reacts to instability. A swing of even 1-2 degrees or 0.5 pH will trigger stress, disease, or death.

Tank maturity matters. New tanks kill this species. The tank needs to be established for months before introducing Discus Fish Care.

Diet precision is critical. Overfeeding or wrong food causes bloat and internal damage. Small, varied meals are the standard.

Biggest Mistake New Discus Fish Care Owners Make

Adding Discus Fish Care to an immature tank. New setups have unstable parameters, and this species punishes instability with disease and death. Cycle the tank fully and let it mature before adding this fish.

Expert Take

Mature tank, stable parameters, small frequent meals. Discus Fish Care rewards precision and punishes shortcuts. If you are not willing to test water weekly, pick a hardier species.

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Symphysodon discus
Common Names	Discus Fish, Discus, Pompadour fish
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	South America, Amazon river
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Advanced
Activity	Slow to Moderate
Lifespan	10-15 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Middle
Minimum Tank Size	75 gallon
Temperature Range	82°-89°F (28°-32°C)
Water Hardness	1 to 4 dKH
pH Range	6.0. 6.5 (for most varieties)
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderately difficult
Compatibility	Limited, Best as a species-only tank
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes, but requires low nutrient water

History

Discus fish originate from the Amazon River. There original homes were around submerged tree roots and branches. This water was very clean and calm. The Discus Fish is a member of the cichlidae family. The cichlidae family is the largest group of freshwater fishes. However, Discus do not share the characteristics of many other Cichlids. Discus are very peaceful by nature while many Cichlids are aggressive and built for speed.

The first Discus was identified in the early 1800s by Johann Natterer¹. Natterer was instrumental in the identification of many animal species in the Amazon. His name is associated with several animals such as the Natterer’s bat.

The fish Discus to be imported happened around 1921. The shipping handling method for these fish at the time where not very good. Many died during the shipping process due to stress. It wasn’t until the mid 1930s that Discus started getting bred in captivity. These happened when the first Discus Fish were imported to the United States and Dwight Winter became the first person to successfully breed Discus in capacity.

As breeding techniques advanced and shipping improved, we started to see more varieties of Discus. Between the 1970s and 80s Discuss breeders started to create more colorful and vibrant varieties of Discus, like the Powder Blue Discus shown below.

Discus Fish Care – The Keys To Success Keeping Discus

Discus to many are considered very challenging to keep (video from our YouTube Channel). They are more difficult to keep then the average freshwater tropical fish, but not impossible. It is a matter of getting all the care elements dialed in so you have a stable tank. Discus Fish require a high investment. They need bigger tanks and higher quality equipment to provide the best environment for them. Let’s break down the keys to success for Discus Fish. They are:

• Housing
• Filtration
• Source Water
• Temperature
• Oxygen
• Decor
• Substrate (Or no substrate)
• Diet
• Tank Mates

Tank Size (Housing)

Adult Discus are large fish. They can grow up to 6 to 8 inches long, they also grow height wise as well due to their dish shape. Like most Cichlids, they are territorial to their own kind, so they need space to thrive and and a natural looking environment to curb their aggression.

The best tank to start a Discus Tank with would be a 75 gallon aquarium. Some people say a 55 gallon aquarium is okay, but I prefer the 75 gallon because it is both wider and taller. These are both factors we want to keep in mind when it comes to the taller disc shapes of these fish.

For a 75 gallon aquarium, we are looking to house 6 adult sized discus fish. Some people will start these tanks up with 10-12 younger discus and allow them to grow. Eventually, they will reduce their numbers to 6, with two being males. Reducing the male population reduces the aggressiveness. A 75 gallon aquarium is not an aquarium you can easily order online.

My suggestion would be to either purchase the aquarium from a petstore when they go on sale or attempt to purchase a cheap used tank from a hobbyist or classified ad. Marineland is a good brand to purchase a first time Discus Aquarium. They are well built and have black silicone instead of clear.

Tank Filtration

DIscus require very clean water. Their natural environment has clean water and the average home aquarium does not provide the quality water or filtration they need. Many hardcore discus keepers will sort this out with daily or every other day water changes. These water changes are very large – usually 50% or more. We can do the same thing here, but if you to build a foundation of proper equipment that can help keep your levels down you won’t be a slave to water changes.

Our first option is a Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear. The aquaclear always makes it into our fish tanks if one is looking for a hang on the back filter. It will do a great job for you and will work trouble free for years.

Our next option is a premium piece of equipment like a Canister Filter. Again, our focus on Discus tanks is very clean water. A Canister filter is ideal for this as we can stuff these with premium level biomedia like Biohome Ultimate Filter Media. This media is one of the best out there in the market and has the ability to reduce nitrates in the aquarium. We are going to pair this media inside the best canister filter on the market today, the OASE Biomaster Thermo. This canister filter comes with a heater bay to place your heater and with a ton of media space.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice

The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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This is a premium option, but let’s keep in mind that Discus are a premium level fish. These fish are not cheap and they demand proper equipment and maintenance. Let’s set ourselves up for success by getting high end equipment.

Source Water

Discus Fish need very clean water. I will say this over and over again in this blog post to drive in the point. It is one of the most critical factors to your success. Sometimes, the source water of your tap water is not going to be good enough for your Discus Fish.

It’s going to depend on your city’s water report. I would suggest you get a city water report and get the readings of levels in your tank to determine if an RODI Unit is going to be needed. The main thing we are going to need to look for are high nitrates. If you have high nitrates coming out of your tap water, you need to consider an RODI Unit or RO Unit. RO water becomes a major purchase when it comes to breeding or raising Discus fry.

Budget Option

Aquatic Life RO Buddie

Budget Option

Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

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The RODI unit shown above is an example of a good unit that will get the job done. If you are going to use RO or RODI water, you will want to use a trace element supplement. Seachem’s Discus Trace is just the supplement to use. Distilled water can also work in a pinch, but given the tank size needed for these fish, it’s usually not a good long term choice.

For those of us using tap water, it is very important to age your tap water for 24 hours then treat it with a declorinator like Seachem Prime. You can further prep with a heater and airstone or submersible pump. The preference is aged tap water + prime if your source water is good enough.

I know not everyone’s tap water is going to be adequate. If you cannot obtain your city’s water report, I would suggest getting an RO unit. Nearly all units designed for aquariums will be an RODI unit. For Discus, you can remove the DI stage to save on the resin as long as your TDS output is within 50-100.

Temperature

Next to clean water, temperature is the second big factor to Discus Fish care success. Discuss thrive on temperatures from 85 to 86 degrees. That is a lot warmer than most tropical fish that likes 78 degrees. What will usually happen with Discus under lower temperatures is that they will not fare well under typical tropical fish temperatures.

We want higher temperatures for a Discus fish for multiple reasons. Warmer water keeps our Discus active. It increases their metabolism and produce a more colorful fish. Many Discus are also keep at higher temperatures.

Imported Discus from Germany and Malaysia will often keep their temperatures higher. You will also want to see what temperatures the Discus you are looking to buy are kept at as you need to accumulate. The main issue you will deal with higher temperatures is bacterial infections. If you have an outbreak, they are tougher to deal with at higher temperatures because the bacteria will produce faster. 

We want to use the Best Aquarium Heater we can get our hands on. For a Discus aquarium, the Eheim Jager heaters are the best heaters to go with. It would also be wise to get an aquarium heater controller like an Ink Bird to ensure you have temperatures that are accurate and fail proof.   

Tank Aeration

With higher temperatures and larger fish we will be dealing with oxygen issues in our aquarium. Also, Discus Fish prefer calm waters so we cannot use a Wave Maker for our setup. We are going to want to use a proper Aquarium Air Pump to provide a high amount of oxygen to our Discus tank.

Whisper AP Series

A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings

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Since we are dealing with larger tanks with Discus, a powerful air pump is in order. The Tetra Whisper AP series is the ideal aquarium air pump for Discus tanks. It is powerful and can handle the needs of these large fish while not making you lose your mind with their noise. 

Tank Decorations

From what we know about the history of Discus Fish, they lived near submerged tree roots and branches. The best decor for Discus is going to be Driftwood. However, we need to be very careful in our handling and selection of driftwood. We want a wood that will not alter the pH of our tank and we want something that is not going to rot away and leech nutrients all over the place.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

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Manzanita wood is probably the best wood to use for a Discus tank. It is clean and looks the part for their natural environment. Sandblasted Manzanita is what we want to look for. There are large showpieces you can purchase from the link above. These large sizes will show better in a large Discus tank.

Prepping the wood for the aquarium is a major process we must undergo for our Discus. Prepping driftwood for aquarium usage requires us to boil it for 10 to 15 minutes. This is to clean the rock of decaying, dead material and to remove tannins. Tannins being released from driftwood will dark the water of your aquarium giving it a tea-colored look.  Below is a video by Long Island Fish Guy showing the process.

The main challenge with boiling a large piece of driftwood is you cannot fit it in a pot. To work through this there are two approaches. One is to boil in parts that you can dip into a cooking pot. Another is to put the wood in a bathtub or outside and pour the boiling water on the wood. Be very careful if you have to do this as you can hurt yourself. 

Tank Substrate

Discus keepers fall into two camps. Those who want to do a bare bottom tank and those who want the look of a natural substrate. There are pros and cons to both.

For a bare bottom tank, we are working to create a very clean tank. The bare bottom approach is the preferred approach for breeders and those raising Discus fry. You can do a bare bottom tank for adult discus. For many, they will feel that the look of a bare bottom is odd. Painting the bottom of the aquarium white will help with the look. Other hobbyists have used aquarium safe tile to decorate their bottoms.

A discus tank with a natural substrate will provide a natural aesthic look. The problem you run into with a substrate is waste accumulation and dealing with potential nutrient issues. The best way to work with a substrate is to use it for aesthic purposes only.

We aren’t going to make an active substrate and we want a thin substrate similar to what I suggested with my prior Goldfish Tank post. We want no more than a half inch for our substrate. This will limit our ability for using rooted Aquarium Plants, but we will see later on that rooted plants are not the best for Discus Tanks.

The easiest substrate to maintain for a Discus tank is sand. We also have to consider the colors of our Discus. Discus fish are bright in color so a dark color would make them look darker. A lighter substrate will make our Discus look more bright. Light substrate is what we are going to want. 

Ideal For Goldfish

Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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A sandy grain size substrate like the one pictured above from Caribsea is what we are looking for. Again, we only want a half inch of substrate. This substrate is also pH neutral – something we will desire as most Discus for keeping purposes will need acidic water to neutral. This range of pH is 6.8 – 7.6 for most Discus varieties. If we are breeding discus, pH needs is different. But, the best practice for breeding Discus is bare bottom.

Diet

Discus are big and colorful fish. They are demanding when it comes to diet as they need a varied and balance diet in order to keep their immune systems and colors healthy. Discus also require to be feed multiple times a day. They also have small mouths for their size and are slow eaters.

When it comes to food, the smaller is better. We want a mix of bloodworms, blackworms, and vibra bites. The delivery method is important as well. I have mentioned in past posts the amazing nutritional value of blackworms in the past. Blackworms would be my go to here. Freeze Dried Blackworms with a vitamin boost like Vita-Chem is a great mix.

My Pick

Vita Chem

One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

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For pellet food, Vibra bites is perfect for discus. It has the worm like shape that get your Discus going. 

Great For Discus

Hikari Vibra Bites

A color enhancing formula that has a worm shape. Excellent for discus fish.

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For feeding worm food like black worms a feeding cone can useful for keeping the food in place. Discus are slow eaters so this keeps the food in one place so your Discus can eat while keeping your tank clean. The video below by Canadian Aqua Farm shows a feeding cone in action.

Tank Mates

Finding tank mates for a Discus Fish tank is the challenge. Because we are going to keep our Discus in hotter waters, this is going to hard on many tropical fish. Also Discus are slow feeders so an aggressive feeder is going to out compete and stress our Discus.

Aquarium fish like barbs are going to be bad tank mates due to how aggressive and active they are. Angelfish and Rams should also be avoided. We will also want to be careful about adding too many schooling fish like tetras who as a group can out compete our discus for food.

When we think about good tank mates, Cardinal Tetras and Corys come to mind. It is doable, but my recommendation is to make your Discus the centerpiece of your aquarium. Start with a dominant Discus Tank first then consider adding tank mates if you really want to. 

Live Plants for Them

A planted tank with Discuss is one of the most challenging setups you can attempt in the freshwater hobby. You are working against multiple factors when trying to add plants with Discus.

The first is the temperature. Because Discus do better in warm weathers, many plants will struggle to thrive at 85-86 degrees. The second factor working against is the lack of nutrients. Remember when I said that Discus Fish like clean water? Clean water means low nutrients. Low nutrients means that plants are going to have a hard time getting the food they need and we cannot use an active substrate.

Active substrate like the ADA Aquasoil I recommend in our Best Planted Tank Substrate post will cause higher nutrient levels in the tank. Great for rooted and carpeting plants, but bad for Discus. 

So what does this leave us with? We just eliminated a number of possible aquarium plants from the list. We are going to want live plants that can not only tolerate the higher temperatures of our Discus tank, but also will still grow in a low nutrient environment. We also want plants that can tolerate a non CO2 injected environment as we want to ensure we have a rich amount of oxygen available with our higher temperatures.

This leaves us with the hardiest of live plants, preferably ones that are column feeders versus root feeders. These will will do well without CO2 These plants are:

• Anubis
• Java Fern
• Shallow Rooted plants like
  • Bacopa Caroliniana
  • Micro Swords
  • Vallisneria

All of the plants above are considered Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do to if you want live plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System. I would recommend Current USA’s Serence Pro lights.

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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When planning a planted Discus Tank, we will need to keep in mind spacing. We will want our plants either attached to our driftwood or in the background of our aquarium. We want to keep the rest of the aquarium open for our Discus to swim and not feel crapped.

We want to avoid densely planted tanks. Lastly, our fish population decreases in a planted setup. For a 100 gallon fish tank, we would drop down to 5 to 6 Adult Discus. We do this because our substrate become an issue with waste with a planted tank. We want to keep our tanks very clean for Discus, so our best approach here is to reduce our aquarium fish population. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that Planted tanks are not good for raising fry or breeding. If you are looking to breed, the best practice are bare bottom tanks.

Different Types

There are tons of breeds of Discus. They are all long-lived, get large, and is breed under the right conditions. We have two types of Discus in our hobby:

• Wild Discus
• Domestic Discus

Wild

The wild discus are the original Discus where our domestics come from. The Blue Green wild discus is where most of our Domestic Discus come from.

The Heckel Discus is one of the most sought after wild Discus. They are found in the Rio Negro. They are one of the most demanding Discus to keep in the aquarium due to their pH requirements. They prefer a pH closer to 4.0, which is a challenge for many aquarium keepers. 

All wild Discus are imported and difficult to keep in comparison to domestically bred Discus who are used to aquarium environments. Wild caught Discus are best kept to the experts and Discus enthusiast.

Domestic (Captive Bred)

There are more than 1000 types of Discus Fish available in the market, day by day count is increasing because of cross breeding and demand on market. And this video below shows the diversity of Discus fish. One thing to keep in mind is that Discus with a yellow coloring have difficulty maintaining their color.

I’ll go over the various discuss types in another post to keep this one short. Check out the visual below by Knock Out Aquatics to see how varied Discus get!

How To Select Them

Discus are very sensitive fish. They require careful selection when choosing a quality store to purchase from an a healthy specimen. Here are a few things to look for:

• Round shape – look for deformities
• Clear eyes – no nicks or cloudy eyes
• Good color – poor color indicates stress or poor diet
• Fins – Look for straight fins. Watch out for bent or clamped fins
• Body mass – Your Discus should look thick. Do not purchase a thin Discus
• Good appetite – Your Discus should actively eat when fed
• Swimming activity – The Discus should be swimming in the open not in a corner

How To Quarantine Them

While I believe you should quarantine all fish, I know most people will not. Discus fish are a premium fish and require quarantine into to thrive. The quarantine process takes 8 weeks and involves frequent water changes – as often as every day!

In the second week, Discus experts would recommend prophylatic treatment with Prazipro or Levamisole to treat for internal parasites. Internal parasites are very common with Discus and is a mild treatment².

You would stop treatment in the 6th weeks and do a 2 week observation period. You should not use antibiotics or external parasite treatments unless you see signs of disease. To learn more about diseases check out this fish disease article. Some commmon factors that cause health issues would be:

• Chemical poisoning – from poor water conditions
• Dissolved gases – from low oxygen or high CO2 levels
• Poor tank hygiene
• Nutritional deficiencies
• Gill flukes, parasites — which is why we quarantine!
• Bacterial infections

Your quarantine tank should be bare bottom with a cycled filter. It should be away from your display and you should use a separate net for it. Given the time involved of quarantine, do not plan on traveling or vacationing during this time. Know your schedule and plan ahead!

Breeding

This is a separate post in itself, so I’ll keep it brief. There are two methods for breeding Discus fish – artificial and natural.

Artifical Breeding

This involved removing the eggs after they have been fertilized. Fry are hatched and fed slime when they are initially born. As they grow, they are transitioned to baby brine shrimp and commercial foods. This is a common method of breeding for commercial Discus breeders. PVC is used as a surface to lay eggs and collect them. It is efficient and more profitable from a business perspective

Natural Breeding

Natural Discuss breeding allows for the eggs to be tended by the parents. The fry hatch and are free to swim in the aquarium. The fry will eat their parent’s slime coat when they are born. They eventually will be transitioned to baby shrimp and commercial food.

This is considered one of the most fulfilling experiences in our hobby. The parents take takes tending to their babies. They fish fry receive antibodies from their parent’s slime coats. As a result, they can develop a stronger immune system.

Where To Buy

Discus fish are one of the more difficult fish to purchase. You will want to purchase them from a high quality local fish store if you are looking to buy locally. If you do not have a good local fish store, you can purchase high quality specimens at tradeshows.

A more recent development has been the emergence of What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) online fish stores. Most are small specialty fish stores. When looking at one, make sure they offer a arrive live guarantee and a warranty of at least 7 days.

Additional Resources (Books To Read)

There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There are two books I recommend when it comes to Discus care.

Discus World

Discus World

A great deep dive book on Discuss keeping for a beginner. Written by a discuss breeder

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The Discus World book is a good casual dive into the world of Discus keeping and breeding. It is informational enough to get you beyond what I have covered here, yet friendly enough for a beginner to pick up.

The Discus Book

The Discus Book

First published in 1989, this book is an update with a full color edition. Written by Alastair Agutter, who has been an authority on aquariums since 1967

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The Discus Book is the book to purchase if you want a comprehensive guide on Discus. This book is written by Alastair Agutter. Alastair has been involved in the aquarium hobby since 1967. He is a veteran in the industry. He offers a no sales approach to proper care. It’s a refreshing perspective to read as our aquarium hobby evolves into a gadget first approach. He’s all about the biological and science. It’s a must read if you want to get serious about Discus!

What It Is Actually Like Living With Discus Fish Care

Discus Fish Care is a fish that makes you a better fishkeeper. You learn to test water, maintain consistency, and pay attention to subtle changes.

When thriving, Discus Fish Care displays colors and behaviors that no hardy fish matches. The reward is real.

When stressed, the signs are immediate. Clamped fins, faded color, hiding. You learn to read this fish or you lose it.

Closing Thoughts

Discus do not forgive sloppy water changes. They just stop eating.

Discus fish are the known as the king of the aquarium. They are beautiful but difficult to keep. If you are up to the challenge, they is one of the most rewarding experiences in our hobby. I hope I showed you what Discus fish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

 

Flowerhorns are the most aggressively territorial freshwater fish most hobbyists will ever keep. They do not tolerate tank mates. They rearrange your tank daily. They will bite your hand during water changes and mean it. A flowerhorn demands a tank built entirely around its existence, and if you try to compromise on that, something in your tank is going to die. I have seen experienced keepers underestimate these fish, and the result is always the same.

A flowerhorn does not share a tank. It allows you to share its tank.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Flowerhorn Cichlid

The most persistent myth about flowerhorns is that bigger is always better when it comes to their nuchal hump (the kok). I’ve seen keepers pump their fish full of questionable supplements and hormones trying to grow the biggest head possible, and it often shortens the fish’s life. A healthy flowerhorn with a moderate hump will outlive an overfed, hormone-treated one every time. The other misconception is that flowerhorns are impossible to keep with other fish. While they’re aggressive, I’ve seen experienced keepers maintain them successfully with large, tough tank mates in 150+ gallon setups. It’s not easy, but it’s not impossible either.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Flowerhorn Cichlid Care

Flowerhorn Cichlid Care watches you. When you walk past the tank, it tracks your movement. This is not a passive decoration. It is an aware, reactive animal.

Feeding time is intense. Flowerhorn Cichlid Care strikes hard and fast. Smaller foods disappear in one motion.

Tank maintenance takes longer than with community fish. The waste output is significant, and skipping a water change shows within days.

Other fish in the tank exist on Flowerhorn Cichlid Care’s terms. If it decides a tank mate is in the wrong spot, that tank mate moves or gets hit.

Table of Contents

• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins
• What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?
• How Big Can They Get?
• How Long Do They Live?
• What Do They Eat?
• Their Temperament and Behavior
• Tank Mates
• Care
• Tank Requirements
• Water Quality and Filtration
• Breeding
• Health And Disease
• Where to Buy
• FAQS
• Closing Thoughts

Flowerhorns are the most aggressive cichlid most hobbyists will ever encounter. They will kill tank mates, rearrange your tank daily, and demand a setup built entirely around them. This is not a community fish. This is not even a fish you keep with other cichlids. A flowerhorn gets its own tank, period. If that is not what you signed up for, walk away now. This is not a fish you own. It is a fish that owns the tank.

The Reality of Keeping Flowerhorn Cichlid

Flowerhorns are interactive, intelligent, and visually spectacular. They are also the most destructive freshwater fish you will keep. Here is the reality.

Solo tank only. This is not a suggestion. Flowerhorns will attack and kill virtually any tank mate you put with them. Some experienced keepers have success with large, tough companions in 150+ gallon tanks, but the default should always be a species-only setup. One fish, one tank.

They destroy everything. Heaters get knocked off. Decorations get moved. Plants get shredded. Substrate gets rearranged into hills and valleys. You will learn to use heavy, stable equipment and accept that your aquascape belongs to the flowerhorn, not to you.

The kok is not everything. The nuchal hump size is partly genetic, partly diet, partly water quality. Supplements and hormones marketed to grow bigger koks often shorten the fish’s life. A healthy flowerhorn with moderate head growth will outlive an overfed, hormone-treated one every time. Do not chase the kok at the expense of the fish.

They bond with their owner. Flowerhorns learn to recognize the person who feeds them. They follow you across the room, beg for food, and display aggression toward strangers. This is a fish with a genuine relationship with its keeper, and that bond is a big part of why people keep them despite the aggression.

Biggest Mistake New Flowerhorn Cichlid Owners Make

Trying to keep them with other fish. It does not matter how big your tank is or how tough you think your other fish are. The default outcome of adding tank mates to a flowerhorn tank is injuries and death. Some people get lucky for a while, but eventually the flowerhorn decides it wants the other fish gone, and it has the size and aggression to make that happen. Accept the solo lifestyle or do not get a flowerhorn.

Expert Take

Flowerhorns are the most interactive freshwater fish in the hobby. Nothing else comes close to the bond between a flowerhorn and its keeper. They greet you, they beg, they display, they have genuine moods. The trade-off is that they need their own tank, heavy-duty equipment, and an owner who respects their aggression instead of trying to work around it. If you want a pet fish in the truest sense of the word, this is it.

The Reality of Keeping Flowerhorn Cichlid Care

Size is the first reality check. Flowerhorn Cichlid Care grows fast and grows large. A tank that fits today will not fit in six months.

Aggression is not optional. This fish is territorial by nature. Tank mates are selected around this fact or they become food.

Filtration needs are extreme. Large predatory cichlids produce massive waste loads. Underfilter this tank and water quality crashes fast.

Biggest Mistake New Flowerhorn Cichlid Care Owners Make

Putting Flowerhorn Cichlid Care in a tank that is too small. This fish grows fast and gets aggressive in tight spaces. Start with the final tank size from day one or do not start at all.

Expert Take

Flowerhorn Cichlid Care is a commitment fish. Start with a 75 gallon minimum, run heavy filtration, and stock only tank mates that hold their own. Half measures do not work with predatory cichlids.

Species Overview

Classification

Origins

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Flowerhorn Cichlids (video source) are manmade freshwater fish that were first bred by fish keepers in Thailand, Malaysia, and Taiwan. That means this aquatic animal does not naturally occur in the wild. The closest wild relatives to this hybrid fish, are African Cichlids.

They first appeared in the market in 1996 and have been rising in popularity since. These large Cichlids also have quite an impressive lifespan adding to their popularity.

Unfortunately, some Flowerhorns have been illegally released into the wild. They can now be found in a few wild habitats around the world where they’ve become an invasive species.

Flowerhorn fish is a result of selectively breeding different African Cichlid species. The idea of breeding these fish was based on the earliest manmade fish called the Blood Parrot.

Interbreeding Cichlids gives them the same unique head and body shape as the parent species. Fortunately, this process is fairly simple since Cichlids will spawn with just about any fish of the opposite sex as long as it’s another Cichlid species.

A few of the naturally occurring species that were used to create Flowerhorn strains are Red Devil (Amphilophus labiatus), Redheaded Cichlid (Paraneetroplus synspilus), Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus), Red Terror (Cichlasoma festae), and Trimac (Cichlasoma trimaculatum). Parrot fish also played a role, but nobody seems to know (or aren’t telling us) exactly to what degree any of these species were involved.

There were originally only five strains of Flowerhorns. These were referred to as Luohans. These strains include the golden-based group such as Faders and Golden Trimax as well as the Golden Monkey, Kamfa, and Zhen Zhu varieties. These are sometimes referred to as Cichlid fish breeds, but in reality, they are only hybrids and not full breeds.

Other strains have also since been developed. Some of the most popular Flowerhorns are currently Golden Monkey, Red Dragon Flowerhorn, and Thai Silk.

What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?

A Flowerhorn Cichlid is a large fish with a unique body shape and nuchal hump also called a Kok. The nuchal hump is the large protrusion on top of your fish’s head that gives them an easily recognizable silhouette. The size can vary from massive nuchal humps on males to nonexistent on females. The size can also change depending on the situation the fish finds itself in.

Both the dorsal and anal fins start about two-thirds of the way back on the body and stretch all the way to the base of the tail. The dorsal fin matches the bulk of the anal fin and ends in a fleshy, braid-like protrusion. The dorsal and anal fins also dwarf the caudal fin.

The tail fin, on the other hand, is round and much thinner than the other fins but the shape may vary. The pectoral fins are quite short and often almost see-through.

Flowerhorns also have quite a lumpy ‘chin’ area that extends right to the ventral fins. This feature is much more prominent in males.

Male Flowerhorns also have more brightly colored, pearlized scales. The female Flowerhorn will be an inch or two smaller than the male.

The unusual patterns of Flowerhorns evolve and change as the juvenile fish grow into adulthood. Once this critter reaches mature size, the patterns are set. This means that you may not know what you’re getting if you choose a juvenile fish. Most will end up with horizontal black stripes, however.

The eyes of these aquatic pets are quite prominent. The King Kamfa variety have white or yellow eyes.

Feeding a Flowerhorn Cichlid is fairly easy as long as you get the balance right. Due to these fish being so large, they have quite a big apatite. These freshwater fish will quite happily feed on just about anything that ends up in the tank.

If you’re unsure which meaty treats your fish can eat, consider adding the following foods:

• Brine shrimp
• Shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Mosquito larvae
• Earthworms
• Other aquatic worms
• Fish fillet
• Dried crickets
• Dried grasshoppers
• Krill

What you feed will depend on the size of your fish. Small treats like brine shrimps are for small fish. Bigger fish can have bigger snacks like earthworms.

For greens, you can consider adding the following vegetables:

• Boiled peas (No shells)
• Zucchini
• Shredded lettuce
• Cucumber

Give Them Live Foods

To keep your fish in tip-top shape, it is best to feed both live and frozen foods. Live foods, like mosquito larvae, will provide your fish with some entertainment. Hunting these creatures will also appeal to the foraging instincts of your Flowerhorn Cichlid.

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

It is best to feed your Flowerhorn Cichlid just enough to finish the food within five minutes after feeding. If you notice any food left at the end of five minutes, consider reducing the amount fed.

Any food that is allowed to settle to the bottom of the tank will just stay there to rot. This reduces your water quality and will lead to ammonia spikes if you’re not careful.

On the other hand, if your fish isn’t fed enough, it will start to dig up plants, chew on the leaves and break the stems. To reduce this destructive behavior, make sure to feed your fish regularly.

Adult fish need to be fed around two to three times a day. Young fish need five to 10 feedings to help them grow. If your fish aren’t interested in every feeding, reduce the number of feeding per day.

Their Temperament and Behavior

Flowerhorn Cichlids have a reputation for being quite aggressive. For this reason, they don’t do so well in community tanks with other fish. If you keep these fish with other species, you can expect fights to break out quite often. Even when kept in tanks with others of their kind, their aggressive nature will often lead to fighting.

Funny enough, Flowerhorns do prefer to swim in pairs. Keeping a male and female together in the tank will often reduce aggression and lower the stress levels in the aquarium.

It is possible to add in a few tank mates for your Flowerhorns if you do some careful planning. It’s an idea to keep them with peaceful fish of a similar size.

These Cichlids also won’t just stay in one layer of the tank. You can expect to see your fish moving up and down the water column as they, please. They will also claim territories in the aquarium which can lead to fighting. This is why it is very important to have enough space if you’re planning on having more than one Flowerhorn Cichlid in the tank.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, you’ll also need to do some planning. These fish aren’t the best when it comes to living plants. They will often dig up the plants and even eat them. To avoid this, make sure to feed your fish correctly and plant unpalatable specimens that don’t require the substrate to thrive in your tank.

Tank Mates

Flowerhorn Cichlid tank mates aren’t easy to find. , these fish don’t do so well in a tank set up with other aquarium fish. Their aggressive nature and territorial tendencies will get in the way.

Fortunately, there are a few suitable tank mates out there. It will also help to select a large tank to reduce possible aggressive behavior. Before you select tank mates, keep the following guidelines in mind:

• Avoid other species of aggressive fish. Choosing fish with peaceful dispositions is best.
• Avoid slow-moving fish. Any species that gets selected must be able to escape any conflict.
• Avoid shrimp and snails, they will definitely only serve as a great snack for your fish.
• Avoid fish that are significantly smaller than your Flowerhorns. They will end up as snacks and targets for aggression rather than Flowerhorn tank mates.
• Any tank mate you select must be big enough to hold its own and be fast enough to swim away when the need arises.

If you’re still considering getting some friends for your fish, keep the lists below in mind.

Best Tank Mates for Them

It can get quite frustrating to select some fishy friends for your giant terrors. To make it a bit easier, consider the following species:

• Another Flowerhorn Cichlid (Best choice)
• Sailfin Plecos
• Leopard Plecos
• Bichir (Go big to avoid problems)
• Silver Arowana
• Bristlenose Plecos
• Jaguar Cichlids
• Common Plecos
• Clown Plecos
• Giant Gourami
• Lowland Cichlids
• Spotted Hope
• Armored Catfish
• Oscar Cichlids

Least Compatible Fish for Them

• Any aggressive fish species besides other Cichlids
• Very small fish like Rasboras
• Shrimps of any kind
• Snails of any kind
• Danios
• Tetras
• Livebearers
• Betta fish
• Loaches
• Red-Tailed Sharks
• Rainbow Sharks
• Iridescent Sharks
• Goldfish
• Koi
• Bala Sharks
• Angelfish

Care

Despite being a manmade fish, the Flowerhorn Cichlid is quite hardy and fairly easy to care for. If keeping fish is new to you, you shouldn’t have any problems, but having some experience is better. New fish keepers are often put off by the required tank size as well.

Flowerhorns are big fish. They are also quite aggressive and messy. This can complicate things when it comes to keeping other fish with your Flowerhorn. You’ll also need to do regular maintenance to keep the tank clean and the water conditions perfect.

Tank Requirements

Flowerhorns need quite big aquariums to satisfy their territorial needs. You will also need some decorations in your tank setup to keep them out of trouble.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to know exactly what these fish prefer in terms of habitat since they were bred in captivity. In other fish species, you may set up the aquarium with plants or lots of rocks to mimic the natural habitat of that specific freshwater fish. In this case, your guess is as good as mine when it comes to tank decorations.

Despite not having a natural habitat, you can still create a stunning home for your pet. Here’s what you need to know.

Tank Size

To keep your fish healthy and stress-free, you will need at least a 75-gallon tank. These are very messy fish so if you can go bigger, go for it. Bigger tanks will prevent sudden changes in water parameters due to rotting fish waste and uneaten food.

If you’re thinking of keeping a breeding pair in the same tank, make sure to allocate at least 150 gallons to these fish. The bigger the tank, the less likely it will be for them to show aggression due to territorial battles. If you want a tank with different Cichlid species or other fish in it, make sure to give them a tank with a minimum volume of 215 gallons to prevent aggression.

Tank Setup

Setting up a Flowerhorn tank is really quite simple. After you’ve selected the tank you want, you will need to add a few things to create a suitable environment for your fish. Here are a few decor ideas to think about.

Plants

A Flowerhorn Cichlid does well in a tank with some added plants. Unfortunately, they do will dig up plants from the substrate. It’s best to keep them in tanks with plants that prefer to grow on other objects like driftwood and rocks with their roots exposed.

If possible, also select plants that aren’t the most palatable. Flowerhorns are omnivores and will nibble on your plants from time to time. A few live plants you can consider are Anubias Nana and Java Fern. Be prepared for some casualties, however, since these big fish will damage some of your plants.

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Substrate

By now you probably noticed that Flowerhorns love to dig around in the substrate. For this reason, it is very important to choose something safe to put at the bottom of your tank.

The best substrate will be sand or large tiles without any sharp edges. Sand allows the fish to dig to its heart’s content without the risk of injury. Avoid coarse gravel. The substrate is often ingested during digging which may lead to impaction if the grains are too large.

Some aquarium enthusiasts prefer to have a bare bottom tank. Bare tanks are very easy to clean and also completely remove the likelihood of impaction due to substrate ingestion.

Decor

To create a bit more structure in the tank, you can add large heavy rocks or driftwood to your tank. Just make sure that the items you add are large and heavy enough to not be knocked over by your fish. If you can, secure any decorations to the bottom of the tank.

Water Quality and Filtration

Flowerhorns prefer clean water in their tanks. They are quite sensitive to pollutants which means regular water changes are necessary to keep them healthy. It is also best to have a moderate flow in the tank to circulate oxygen and remove toxins.

Filtration

Flowerhorns are very messy. For this reason, they need a strong filtration system to help maintain the correct water parameters. Your filter should produce a moderate flow to circulate water around the aquarium.

A canister filter is an excellent choice when it comes to these Cichlids. It will create the correct flow while removing any solids from the water. It will also help to remove toxins by allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The Fluval FX Series is designed for large fish like Flowerhorns.

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Water Parameters

Despite being quite hardy fish, you will still need to keep an eye on the water conditions to keep them healthy. Here’s a quick breakdown of the parameters for Flowerhorn Cichlids:

• Water Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°c)
• pH: 6.5-7.8
• GH: 161-358ppm (9-20 dGH)
• kH: 54-107ppm (3-6 dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <20 ppm

Aquarium Maintenance

Since Flowerhorns are such slobs, it is very important to do regular aquarium maintenance. You should do weekly water changes and replace at least 20% of the aquarium water. On top of that, you can do monthly water changes of up to 70% of the total volume of water.

Doing these water changes will remove solid waste and excess nitrates in the water. Nitrates may not be dangerous in small quantities, but they will become toxic in large amounts.

Testing Tank Conditions

To keep your fish health excellent, make sure to do weekly water tests. To achieve this you will need a water test kit. The ideal kit will test all the water parameters except for the temperature in your tank. For that, you will need a thermometer.

Breeding

Breeding these fish is very difficult. Fertile specimens are extremely rare in this hybrid breed. A fish keeper also needs to wait for around 8-10 months or even longer before they can test breed their male and up to 2 years for a female. For this reason, it becomes very frustrating trying to breed these Cichlids.

If you still insist on breeding them, you’ll need a breeding tank and some knowledge.

Sexing

Male and female Flowerhorns are quite easy to tell apart. Males are around one to two inches bigger than females. They are also more brightly colored.

You can also expect a V-shaped vent on the male where the female has a U-shaped vent. The most prominent difference is the nuchal hump. Males will have massive nuchal humps while a female has no hump or just a very small protrusion.

It is difficult to sex juveniles so make sure to buy from an experienced breeder to be sure.

Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

You don’t need to do anything special to prepare your fish for breeding. Simply place them in a breeding tank with a similar size to their normal tank. If the male is too aggressive, use a divider that allows water flow between the male and female. This should encourage breeding as soon as the divider is removed.

Your breeding tank will function as both a spawning tank as well as a fry tank.

The Breeding Process

During the breeding process (video source), the female Flowerhorn will lay around 900 eggs on a smooth surface somewhere in the tank. The male will then swim over and fertilize the eggs.

Once fertilization has taken place you can remove the female. The male Flowerhorn will care for the eggs until they hatch. Once the fry hatched, you can also remove the male.

Caring For Fry

Caring for the fry is quite simple. It is best to feed the fry with live food like brine shrimps to help them grow. You will need to do this 5 to 10 times per day to keep up with their ferocious appetite and nutrient needs.

Once they turn 6 months old, you should be able to sex your offspring and separate them into different grow-out tanks.

Health And Disease

You’ll be happy to know that Flowerhorns aren’t susceptible to any particular disease. Unfortunately, there are still a few things you should be aware of. Let’s take a look at your Cichlid’s health.

Evaluating Their Health

It’s very important to keep an eye on these amazing creatures. Fortunately, it’s quite obvious when your pet isn’t feeling so well. Look out for the following red flags:

• Reduced apatite
• Obvious sores on the body
• Reduced activity level
• Change in normal behavior

Common Health Issues

These Cichlids are amazingly healthy pets. This doesn’t mean they are completely immune against diseases, however. Here are a few health issues you should be aware of:

• Mechanical health issues

Due to these fish being so aggressive, you can expect a few injuries every now and then. These shouldn’t be a huge problem unless they affect the fish’s ability to swim. Injuries can also happen during the exploration of the tank and while digging through the substrate.

Avoid these issues by checking the tank for any sharp objects and providing a large enough aquarium to avoid conflict.

• Ich

Ich shows up as white spots on the body and gills of your aquatic pet. Make sure to treat this disease immediately to prevent serious complications. To understand ich better, take a look at this article.

• Hole-in-the-head disease

This disease looks like holes in the nuchal hump of your fish. Fortunately, it is curable, but some scarring will remain. Treat this problem by doing daily water changes and removing any activated carbon in your tank until the water conditions improve.

Where to Buy

Flowerhorn Cichlids are quite popular. They is found in almost any aquarium shop around the world. Unfortunately, these hybrid species are not cheap to obtain. The average price they go for is around $35 for just one fish. To get the best of the best, you will need to venture to an online fish store, connect with breeders locally, or at tradeshows.

FAQS

Is the Flowerhorn Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

• Perfect if you want a pet fish, not just an aquarium. Flowerhorns recognize their owners, beg for food, and develop distinct personalities that rival any pet.
• Not for small tank keepers. You need 75 gallons minimum for a single flowerhorn, and bigger is always better with these fish.
• Great if you enjoy a species-only setup. Most flowerhorns do best as the sole fish in their tank, so if you like the idea of one showpiece fish, this is your species.
• Skip if you’re on a tight budget. Between the large tank, heavy filtration, and high-protein diet, flowerhorns are expensive to maintain compared to most freshwater fish.
• Ideal for keepers who want interaction. These fish will play with you through the glass, follow you around the room, and learn feeding routines within days.
• Not suitable for community setups. Unless you have 150+ gallons and experience managing aggressive cichlids, plan on keeping them alone.

How the Flowerhorn Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

Flowerhorns are often compared to oscars, and it’s an understandable comparison. Both are large, personable cichlids that become genuine pets. But they’re different fish in practice. Oscars are messy eaters that need excellent filtration but are less aggressive toward tank mates of similar size. Flowerhorns take aggression to another level. An oscar will chase a tank mate; a flowerhorn will kill one. Oscars also grow slightly larger (up to 14 inches vs. 12 for most flowerhorns) and are less expensive to acquire. If you want a big, interactive pet fish and plan to keep it with other large cichlids, the oscar is the safer choice. If you want a single showpiece fish with maximum visual impact and don’t mind a solo setup, the flowerhorn is hard to beat.

The red devil cichlid is one of the parent species used in flowerhorn breeding, so the comparison is natural. Red devils are pure species with their own charm. They’re slightly less flashy but arguably more authentic. They share the flowerhorn’s aggression and need for space, but they lack the exaggerated nuchal hump that makes flowerhorns so distinctive. Red devils can also be kept in pairs for breeding, which is something flowerhorns (as hybrids) can’t do as reliably.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Flowerhorn Cichlid

Living with a flowerhorn is the closest thing to keeping a pet that also wants to fight you. You walk into the room and the fish follows you, pressing against the glass, flaring, displaying. You put your finger near the tank and it charges. You reach in for maintenance and it bites you. Not a nip. A bite with intent. You learn to respect the fish, and in return, it gives you a level of interaction that no other freshwater species can match.

The tank will never look the way you set it up. Substrate gets piled into mounds. Decorations get shoved into corners. Heaters get knocked sideways. You stop fighting it and start securing equipment with suction cups rated for industrial use. The flowerhorn wins every decorating argument. Every single time.

Feeding is a performance. The fish sees the food container and goes into a frenzy. It slams into the surface, grabs pellets with force, and makes a mess. Visitors are either fascinated or slightly alarmed. The flowerhorn does not care either way. It is the undisputed center of attention in whatever room it occupies, and it knows it.

Closing Thoughts

A flowerhorn does not coexist. It dominates or it destroys.

Flowerhorn fish is very popular in the aquarium trade. They are fairly easy to keep as long as you do regular tank maintenance to keep the water quality pristine. It is also important to monitor the water temperature to keep them healthy.

If you have any questions, please comment below.

Rainbow Sharks are territorial bottom dwellers that get more aggressive with age. The cute juvenile at the pet store becomes a tank bully within months.

Rainbow sharks are not sharks. They are territorial bottom dwellers with an attitude problem.

Rainbow sharks are not sharks. They are territorial bottom dwellers with an attitude problem.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank
• Brief Overview of Rainbow Sharks
• Classification
• Origin and Natural Habitat
• What Do They Look Like?
• How Big Can They Get?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• What are Good Tank Mates for Them?
• What do they eat?
• Albino
• Breeding
• Care
• Diseases
• FAQs
• Is the Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank Right for You?
• How the Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts
• The Reality of Keeping Rainbow Shark

The Rainbow Shark looks ordinary in a store and transforms in a proper tank. After keeping rainbowfish for decades, I know the difference between a washed-out store specimen and a fully colored adult is staggering. This guide covers exactly what you need to bring out its best.

Store rainbowfish look nothing like properly kept adults. The transformation takes patience.

Keeping Rainbow Shark long-term requires consistent water quality, proper diet, and a tank that meets their specific needs. This is not a set-and-forget species.

When kept right, the Rainbow Shark is one of those fish that makes the entire hobby worth it.

Let’s get started!

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank

The biggest mistake I see with rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tanks is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

The Reality of Keeping Rainbow Shark

This species has specific needs most generic guides skip. The Rainbow Shark does not thrive in average community conditions. It needs targeted water parameters, the right diet, and compatible tank mates. Half-measures lead to chronic stress and shortened lifespans.

Observation is your best tool. Watch this fish daily. Changes in color, activity level, or feeding response tell you more about water quality and health than any test kit alone.

Long-term success requires consistency. Regular maintenance, stable parameters, and a consistent feeding schedule are the foundation of keeping the Rainbow Shark healthy for years.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Treating this fish like a generic community species. The Rainbow Shark has specific requirements that differ from the typical tropical fish setup. Ignoring those differences leads to problems within the first few months.

Expert Take

After 25 years of keeping Rainbow Shark, the single most important factor is consistency. Stable parameters, regular feeding, and a maintenance schedule you actually follow matter more than any piece of equipment.

Brief Overview of Rainbow Sharks

Classification

Origin and Natural Habitat

Rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) is nothing like true sharks; they are freshwater fish, live peacefully with their kin, and feed on algae and plankton. However, they were named after the mighty sharks because of the upright dorsal fin that strikes a close resemblance to sharks while swimming.

The rainbow sharks originated from Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand, and are now commonly found in the freshwater basins of Mekong, Chao, Phraya, Xe Bangfai, and Maeklong.

Unfortunately, the habitat destruction in the wild resulted in the decreased population of rainbow sharks. However, in nature, they are bottom dwellers and mostly live in sandy substrates.

Even though rainbow fish is a peaceful breed, it gets territorial and might give a tough time to their smaller tank mates. Therefore, it’s a good idea to keep a few fish in the aquarium, that is closer to their own size. Also, rainbow sharks are a little high-maintenance and might pose a challenge to novice fish keepers.

So, choose wisely!

What Do They Look Like?

As I mentioned before, Rainbow sharks are commonly known as red-finned sharks, which earned their name because of the dorsal fin.

And if you see them swimming, you might mistake them for baby ocean sharks for once!

However, rainbow sharks are small and have elongated and slender backs with flat stomachs. Their fins, as the name suggests, are bright red with somewhat orangish hues. The bright red-orangish fins pop out against their dull grey bodies.

The dorsal fins of rainbow sharks comprise 11 branched rays with a prolonged fin tail. Like ocean sharks, the rainbow shark’s face is flat, but the snout is somewhat rounded along with an elongated body that tapers off at the tail.

What’s the difference between the males and females?

Before stating the differences here, I’d like to emphasize that male rainbow sharks are very dominant and aggressive toward their gender. Therefore, I always recommend keeping rainbow sharks carefully; one male in a tank is enough!

Coming back to the variations, there’s not much to name their gender, especially for juvenile rainbow sharks. To clearly reveal the gender, it’s always best to wait until the sharks grow completely and reach adulthood.

An adult rainbow shark has a thin body with bright red-colored fins and black lines on its tailfins. Comparatively, female rainbow sharks possess faded coloration with more pronounced bellies and the black, grey lines on the tailfins are absent in females.

The lifespan of rainbow sharks depends on:

1. Overall tank and water environment
2. Diet rich in vegetable and protein matter
3. Perfect sandy substrate for bottom-dwelling

Temperament and Activity Level

One thing that I genuinely love about the Rainbow shark breed is its agile and lively nature (video source).

Also, since they are bottom dwellers, they enjoy their time in the water grazing for food.

Therefore, many aquarists discourage tanks or aquariums for the rainbow shark as the confined space might trigger their aggressive side. As a result, they might attack smaller sharks and ultimately kill them.

Nonetheless, if you want to keep a group in home aquariums, make sure to install a large tank.

Mature ones are territorial

Juvenile rainbow sharks are social and get along with other fish pretty well.

But as soon as they reach adulthood, they become standoffish and solitary, asserting dominance in the presence of other fish.

To cater to this, I advise making tunnels, caves, and crevices for hiding. Also, it’s advisable to plant dense and healthy vegetation for the well-being of other fish and thriving a healthy community that involves fewer accidents.

What are Good Tank Mates for Them?

Well, if you ask me, I’d say, no mates are always better!

You might argue that they get along with true loaches and plecos really well.

Yes, I agree!

But in the wild only. In captivity, the rainbow sharks are quite aggressive and territorial. And like I mentioned before, they are bottom-dwellers; they don’t enjoy the company of other scavengers.

And this brings me to the conclusion that bottom dwelling tank mates should always be avoided for Rainbow sharks.

However, if you’re still adamant, I advise you to introduce your red-fin shark to a pre-occupied tank with only a few fish to reduce the likeliness of harassment.

Red-fin sharks are compatible with upper and middle tank dwellers, including.

• Danios
• Rasboras
• Gouramis
• Barbs
• Rainbowfish
• Clown Loach
• Indian Loach
• Snails

Also, while introducing rainbow sharks to their tank mates, be wary of their size and personality so that they could defend themselves.

Least Compatible Tank Mates

The worst tank mates for Rainbow sharks are shy and small fish, which are easily dominated.

Also, avoid bottom dwellers, very large, and aggressive tank mates including.

1. Red-tailed shark
2. Bala sharks
3. Loaches
4. Catfish
5. Red Devil Cichlids
6. Green Terror Cichlids

What do they eat?

The fact that rainbow sharks are omnivorous makes them voracious eaters. Also, they are not finicky and enjoy plants and prey.

The feeding habits in their native habitat rely on decaying plants, plankton, algae, insects, larvae, worms, and much more.

However, in captivity, since we target good coloration and a healthy lifespan, it’s best to include high-quality vegetable and protein matter.

For exquisite coloration and luster, I recommend feeding plants to the fish, such as lettuce, cucumber, cabbage, etc.

Also, they are bottom-dwellers, so make sure you get sinking pellets so they don’t miss out on some good nutritional diet.

Juveniles should munch on a protein-rich diet (brine shrimp, worms, and live food) to remain healthy and become brighter and stronger as they age.

However, since rainbow sharks are scavengers, they sometimes might overeat, which results in some illnesses. Therefore, it’s best to start feeding once a day to understand their pattern and adjust the diet accordingly.

Normally 2 feeding sessions a day comprising 5 minutes of feeding works the best for rainbow sharks.

Below is the list of recommended food you should incorporate into the diet of your rainbow shark.

• Insect larvae
• Algae (tablets/wafers)
• Bloodworms
• Tubifex Worms
• Brine Shrimp
• Daphnia
• Artemia
• Pellets
• Flakes
• Vegetables (peas, cucumber, zucchini, lettuce, and spinach)

Albino

The most common and popular variation of Rainbow sharks is the Albino variant.

The Albino rainbow shark possesses white abdomens with bright red eyes and fins that make them stand out in the tank. Though the variety is extremely rare, it is fondly loved by aquarists.

Albinos are very active, bottom-dwellers that feed on biofilm, plankton, and other organisms in the freshwater. Juvenile Albinos are sociable and amicable. However, as they age, they become more distant and aloof. Hence, they don’t get along with fish of their own kind including Flying Foxes, and Siamese bottom feeders. 

If you’re planning on keeping your Albinos in a small tank, think again!

Albino rainbow shark is known to be a very active jumper, so it demands large tanks with ample water flow and decent filtration. I also recommend installing protective aquarium lids, just so you don’t have to deal with accidents.

As long as the diet of Albinos is, get your fresh veggies ready, as Zucchini, Cucumber, and other high-quality vegetable and protein matter (brine shrimps, frozen bloodworms) are ideal for Albino Rainbow Sharks.

 Personally, I would recommend Albino Rainbow shark to experienced fish keepers because:

1. High-maintenance
2. Slightly aggressive

Breeding

Let me be very honest here.

If you’re raising rainbow sharks for the purpose of breeding, it’s time to move on!

That’s because the chances of breeding rainbow sharks, especially in captivity, are close to none.

Firstly, in their juvenile years, it’s impossible to distinguish between males and females. Secondly, rainbow sharks are so dominant and aggressive that they barely allow other fish to share the tank.

Therefore, there are few successful results of breeding rainbow sharks in aquariums (video source).

In nature, it’s a different story.

Rainbow sharks or Ruby sharks, like mentioned earlier, reach their sexual maturity as soon as they are 4 inches. The females lay eggs and males fertilize them later.

The ideal breeding months of Rainbow sharks are October and November. Thereafter the male fertilizes the eggs and the eggs are then transferred to a separate tank until the fry appears after a week.

The fry depends on high-quality protein so that they develop vibrant red fins and a healthy luster.

Care

Luckily, you don’t need to care much about the rainbow shark as it enjoys its own company and eats whatever is accessible to them.

However, if you are someone who believes in the healthy nurturing of their pet fish, the tank size, balanced, and water quality of the aquarium should be your top priority.

Tank Size

While keeping the rainbow shark, know that we don’t start small here.

That being said, 50 gallons tank size is the bare minimum, that too for one rainbow shark.

If you’re planning on keeping multiple rainbow sharks, be sure to provide substantial tank space.

Also, the length of your tank should at least be four feet long and 18 inches wide, considering a single fish.

Since rainbow shark is an active jumper and avid swimmer, it’s best to keep the tank big and wide so that your adorable red-finned pets can get the most of their lives.

Water Parameters

An interesting factor that keeps most aquarists from raising rainbow sharks is their fondness for their natural environment.

It’s almost impossible to recreate the natural conditions for rainbow sharks to reduce their aggression and dominance.

However, all we can do is try!

Rainbow sharks originally come from Southeast Asia’s freshwater basins where the water temperature ranges between 72°F to 82°F.

Therefore, the optimal water temperature for the rainbow shark falls somewhere between 77°F.

So, I suggest maintaining the water temperatures of your tank between 72°F to 82°F with the help of a premium heater that sets the temperature effectively.

Also, in the wild, these sharks enjoy river water that flows at a higher speed.

Therefore, maintain the water movement of the tank between moderate or fast to mimic their natural habitat.

Water pH and Hardness

Water pH and hardness are essential to maintain for keeping rainbow sharks calm and stress-free.

The ideal pH level ranges between 6 to 8 pH while the water hardness should be no less or more than 5 to 11 dH.

Substrate and Water Flow

Being a freshwater fish, the rainbow shark loves sandy bases. Also, many aquarists believe that’s a plus point because the sand is easy to clean and seldom collects food and other fish food waste that may be harmful to your fish.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Besides sand, you may opt for round gravels that are not too edgy or sharp to avoid potential injuries.

Additionally, as I mentioned before, the water flow should also be maintained to entertain your rainbow shark. I recommend installing small jets and air-stones to control the constant water pressure and flow.

If your tank houses more than one rainbow shark and is over 125 gallons, you can make use of controllable wavemakers, including EcoTech, IceCap, and several others.

Aquascape Decors

If you want to keep Rainbow sharks as your pet, I cannot stop stressing enough about recreating their natural habitat as they get quite upset in plain captivity.

The river basins in Thailand are filled with hiding places and natural vegetation. Therefore, you should consider freshening up the aquarium experience.

The sandy substrates help their scales from damaging when they are scavenging at the bottom and the hiding places give them plenty of space to spend their time in solitude.

I recommend setting up a tank with driftwood, boulders and pebbles, caves, and rock formation with lots of other decorations to keep your red-finned shark busy and happy.

Aquatic plants with hard foilage are also an excellent option to change their game. Since they are omnivorous, they like to munch on plants and green algae. Therefore, aquarists suggest keeping hard-leaved plants in the aquariums.

Also, the plants and decorations reduce the chances of conflicts between the different fishes. Nevertheless, if your tank houses just one rainbow shark, the decors and plantations are pretty straightforward.

Furthermore, it helps them to have a peaceful corner for themselves to feel safe and secure. When they feel unharmed, they are pleasant and lively.

The best plants for rainbow sharks are.

1. Java Fern
2. Anubias
3. Hornwort
4. Lemon Bacopa
5. Vallisneria
6. Amazon sword

Lighting

If you ask me, I’d say lighting isn’t a requirement for rainbow sharks. However, it’s always best to follow a natural day and night cycle to offer them their natural lifestyle.

Also, stronger illumination help algae to develop in your tank, which allows easier grazing for your rainbow minnow.

However, sometimes the bright lightings might get a little overwhelming for your sharks. Therefore, I recommend installing LED lights that are more economical and programmable.

Proper Filtration

The rainbow shark demands exceptional water quality, tank size, and proper sanitization and filtration.

Rainbow sharks cannot stand low oxygen levels and toxins such as nitrates, nitrite, and Ammonia. So, a filter would be essential for raising a healthy rainbow shark.

For filters, I recommend investing in a canister filter better than the HOB.

That’s because the ideal range of rainbow shark filters should be 360GPH and above, and the canister filter will provide just that.

If you have small sharks in your aquarium tank, fret not!

Canister filters is easily adjusted and provide the perfect volume for your tank.

Diseases

In terms of diseases and other illnesses, rainbow sharks are pretty hardy. But like any other freshwater fish species, they sometimes catch illnesses that are common and can easily be treated.

Some of the diseases are discussed as under.

Swim Bladder Disease

If you notice your rainbow fish swimming queerly, you might mistake it with the fun behavior.

However, it’s much more than that!

The swim bladder disease is a serious medical condition when a fish cannot swim properly and have difficulty controlling their ability to swim or float.

Symptoms

• Standing on the head
• Swimming upside down
• Distended belly
• Loss of appetite
• Curved back
• Floating on the sides

Causes

The major cause of swim bladder disease is the compression or squeezing of the swim bladder by overeating, gulping air, or constipation.

Some other causes also include.

1. Bacterial infection
2. Cysts
3. Egg bound, in females
4. Parasites
5. Fatty liver tissues

Constipation

If you have spent much time looking after aquarium fish, you might have noticed stingy feces, hanging from the fish.

That’s the major symptom of constipation.

When that occurs, wait for a few days and it should be gone on its own. But in severe cases, feeding a balanced diet that includes peas, brine shrimp along salt baths should help alleviate the symptoms.

Symptoms

1. Stingy and hanging feces
2. Bloating
3. Laziness

Causes

1. Lack of fiber

FAQs

1. Rainbowfish
2. Barbs
3. Indian Loach
4. Gouramis
5. Clown Loach
6. Snails

Is the Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank Right for You?

Before you add a rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tanks need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Rainbow Shark What to Know Before Adding One to Your Tank Compares to Similar Species

Want an easy community fish? This is not it. Want a species that rewards dedicated care? The Rainbow Shark delivers if you put in the work.

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank stacks up against some common alternatives.

The rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the rainbow shark what to know before adding one to your tank needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Rainbow shark is a beautiful freshwater aquarium fish that adds grace to your home. However, if you cannot afford a bigger tank, I suggest you keep looking for other better and smaller alternatives like nano fish.

One thing that I would strongly advise is recreating the natural environment within the tank with the recommended decors and aquascape.

Also, a happy rainbow shark is mellow and decent. So, make sure to gear up all the essentials before you bring one home.

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything)
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Axolotl Tank Setup Guide
• Tank Setup
• Cycling The Tank
• Tank Maintenance
• Keeping Multiples in Your Tank
• FAQS
• Is the Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything) Right for You?
• How the Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything) Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts

The single most important thing to get right in an axolotl tank setup is temperature. And it’s also the most commonly overlooked. Axolotls need water between 60 and 68°F. At 70°F and above, they become stressed, stop eating, and become vulnerable to bacterial infections. In most homes, especially in summer, that means you need an aquarium chiller. It’s an extra cost that surprises a lot of new axolotl keepers who assumed a heater was the only temperature equipment they needed. Beyond temperature, the other non-negotiables are fine sand substrate (axolotls will swallow gravel and get intestinal impactions), gentle filtration with low flow (they stress in strong currents), and nothing sharp or abrasive near those external gills. Get those right and the rest is straightforward. Here’s the complete tank setup guide.

Before we get started, however, let’s make sure you know a little about this awesome amphibian.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything)

The biggest mistake I see with axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything)s is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

Species Overview

Classification

Axolotl Tank Setup Guide

Ambystoma mexicanum, commonly referred to as the axolotl, Mexican walking fish, Mexican salamander, or Mexican axolotl, are salamanders that stay in their larval stage.

This means that axolotls will never morph into their adult forms and are thus known as neotenic salamanders. This, however, means that an axolotl will never take to land and thus needs to be housed in a fully aquatic tank setup.

Lifespan

Axolotls are only for those who are ready for a long-term commitment. If cared for properly, these critters will bless you with up to 15 years of cuteness.

Make sure you choose a healthy axolotl to start off with. It can become quite challenging to nurse them back to health.

The stress of moving house won’t help either. This means that a sick axolotl is more likely to get sicker due to stress. Healthy axolotls will handle rehoming much better.

Appearance

Adult axolotls are dark brown with black speckling. Since they remain aquatic, you can expect to see dark gills extending from both sides of the head.

It is also possible to find other color morphs such as albinos and specimens with both white and brown markings. In albinos or white varieties, you can expect the feathery gills to be a pink color (like the one pictured above).

Mexican walking fish have pretty long tails, while their legs and feet are small in comparison. There is a fin along the spine that extends from the tip of the tail all the way to the back of the head. You can expect to see another lower fin that extends from between the hind legs all the way to the tip of the tail.

Axolotls should always be kept in water due to their permeable skin. If left outside of the water for even a short amount of time, your axolotl will dehydrate and die.

Permeable skin also makes axolotls vulnerable to chemicals in the water. For this reason, you need to make sure only tap water treated with a water conditioner is added to the tank.

Amazingly, these animals can regrow their limbs. Mexican walking fish scientific studies have become quite popular for this particular reason. Everyone would like to know exactly how they do it and if it’s possible to replicate the process for human use.

Average Size

Mexican walking fish may be bigger than you first imagined. The average size of these exotic critters is around 9 inches (23cm).

They can get to about 12 inches (30cm), however, so make sure your tank is big enough to accommodate the size of your fully grown adult axolotls. Many keepers will tell you bigger tanks are always better to house axolotls.

Temperament And Behavior

Ambystoma mexicanum are very peaceful pets. They do very well in community setups with other aquarium fish.

The slow nature of an axolotl makes them relatively safe to have around small fish and other aquatic creatures like shrimps. Pet axolotls prefer to keep to themselves most of the time, even when you have more than one of them in the same tank.

If you have a brightly lit tank, you may never see your axolotl. These critters are nocturnal and very sensitive to bright light. For this reason, they will hide in dark areas of the tank while the lights are on.

During times when the lights are off, the axolotl is seen digging and sifting through the substrate. This is entertaining for them and appeals to their natural foraging behavior.

Health Considerations

Axolotls are very sensitive creatures. To keep them healthy, you will need to set up an axolotl-friendly tank.

When doing this, keep in mind their behavior, sensitivity, and also how much waste they produce.

For these reasons, axolotls need a tank with good filtration but no extreme currents. The most common signs of distress in axolotls include holding the gills more forward than usual, refusing to eat, and hiding a lot.

Stressed axolotls are also more prone to bacterial infections. If you see any injuries on your pet, make sure to get veterinary advice to solve the problem as quickly as possible.

Diet

Axolotls are highly carnivorous creatures. Fortunately, it’s fairly simple to feed these little wonders.

Feeding axolotls starts with gathering the right foods. They prefer meaty treats like aquatic insects or brine shrimp. What exactly they snack on will also depend on the size of your axolotl so don’t be surprised if brine shrimps just don’t cut it anymore.

If you’re worried about providing the right axolotl feed, consider getting some commercial fish food. Sinking pellets for carnivorous creatures are specifically designed to contain all the nutrients your pet needs to stay healthy. The food from Invert Aquatics below is a great choice.

Great For Axolotls!

Invert Aquatics Soft Pellets for Axolotls

Made in the USA with raw quality ingredients. This food is specially designed for Axolotls!

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Ultimately, what axolotls feed on will depend on what you provide. It’s best to feed a variety of fresh and frozen foods for optimal health.

In addition to the above-mentioned foods, you can also try feeding live mosquito larva, bloodworms, chopped earthworms, strips of meat, or even raw fish. Just you need to feed appropriate amounts to avoid uneaten food spoiling your water quality.

Handling

Handling axolotls should be done with care. If you can avoid it, don’t touch your pet. Instead, use a fine mesh net to catch and relocate your axolotl.

The net will prevent any unnecessary injuries and make it much easier to catch your axolotls when you need to.

Tank Setup

Now that you know a little more about the aquatic animal known as an axolotl, you can start thinking about what you’ll need to create the perfect habitat. Axolotls aren’t very picky about how their tanks look as long as you pay attention to a few critical needs (video source).

Here’s what you need to know.

The Tank

Axolotls don’t need much when it comes to tanks. They is placed in just about any tank as long as it has enough floor space and has a minimum capacity of around 20 gallons. The main Axolotl cost is upfront with the tank, equipment, and animal. Maintenance cost is pretty reasonable.

Beginner pet owners may be incorrectly informed on the care of an axolotl. Some pet stores suggest an axolotl tank with as little as 10 gallons capacity. While these tanks can house younger axolotls just fine, it’s not ideal for fully grown adults.

Axolotls create a lot of waste. If the tank is too small, the water parameters will fluctuate quite drastically. This will affect the health of your axolotl in the long run.

It’s always better to go bigger for this exact reason. Bigger tanks have more water in them which means changes in the water parameters will happen slower. This makes it easier to keep your pet axolotl healthy.

You can start off with a small 10-gallon tank for your young axolotls, but keep in mind you’ll soon have to upgrade. If you can go up to 40 gallons from the start, your axolotl will stand a better chance of staying healthy for its entire life.

Substrate Considerations

Most axolotl keepers often create their axolotl tank with a bare bottom. This makes it easy to keep the tank clean, but might affect the health of your pet.

Leaving the tank bare will simplify doing water changes. You can simply suck up any waste at the bottom of the tank without worrying about the substrate. There’s also less chance of anaerobic bacteria causing problems in your axolotl tank.

Unfortunately, bare bottom tanks can cause some stress in your axolotl. They don’t like slipping on the bottom of the tank and may develop sores on the toes due to the effort they exert to hold on.

They also need something to keep them occupied to prevent boredom. Having a bare bottom tank prevents natural foraging behavior such as digging.

Sand is the best substrate for axolotl tanks. Fine sand will prevent slipping and provide endless entertainment. Axolotls love to dig and sift through sand to mimic natural foraging behaviors.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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If your pet accidentally eats some of the sand, the particles are also small enough to pass through the digestive system without any problems.

It’s best to avoid any fine gravel. These particles are small enough to be swallowed but too big to pass through the digestive system. This can cause problems such as impaction that will lead to the death of your beloved pet.

Coarse gravel should also be avoided. Even if the particles are big enough not to be swallowed, they will irritate the sensitive skin of your axolotl and cause injuries.

Tank Decorations

Axolotl care includes providing enrichment as well as escapes. By adding tank decorations you can do just that. Here are a few things you should consider adding to your axolotl tank.

Driftwood

Driftwood without any sharp edges is great for axolotl tanks. You can create interesting aquascapes as well as some perfect places to hide.

Driftwood can also be used to grow plants like java fern and anubias nana. These plants prefer to grow attached to objects like driftwood with their roots exposed to the water.

Rocks

It’s always a good idea to add a few rocks to your axolotl tank. River rocks is stacked to create caves and tunnels for your axolotl to hide in and swim through.

Cichlid rocks are an excellent addition as well. These are fake rocks with holes in them specifically made to provide shelter.

Plants

Live plants are a great choice for an axolotl tank. These creatures produce a lot of waste that is turned into nutrients with the help of the beneficial bacteria in your tank.

These nutrients make excellent plant fertilizer. This means that live plants will remove excess nutrients in the water which in turn improves water quality. Low light plants are ideal given the nocturnal nature of these animals.

Plants are also soft and flexible which means your axolotl can swim in between them without the potential of getting snagged or otherwise injured. Axolotls can also use them as shelter when the need arises.

It’s best to stick to plants like java ferns that prefer to grow on other ornaments instead of in the substrate. Axolotls have a habit of digging up plants that are rooted in the substrate.

Fake plants are an option for axolotl tanks, but they aren’t ideal. They will have sharp edges that can injure your axolotl. They also don’t bring any benefits to the tank.

Hides

If your tank doesn’t already have enough hiding spots, then you can consider getting a hide. These are especially important in tanks with extra lighting in planted aquariums.

A hide will create a nice dark hiding spot for your axolotl to relax while the aquarium lights are on. Axolotls are quite sensitive to light so they will appreciate this little getaway.

Reptile Hide

Hides are common place in the reptile word. Excellent for creating a safe space for your reptiles and amphibians

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Hides is just about anything from an aquarium castle with little holes, to ceramic pipes strategically placed around the tank. Just make sure that whatever hide you choose has no sharp edges that can injure your beloved pet axolotl.

Filtration System

Axolotls are known to produce large amounts of waste quite quickly. For this reason, it is very important to have a strong filtration system.

Unfortunately, this is quite tricky since an axolotl prefers a filtered tank with a relatively low flow compared to most aquarium critters. The next challenge is providing adequate aeration at the same time. Canister filters are excellent as they can work in lower water levels and won’t make the noise a power filter will make with water splashing from the outflow.

You can also utilize an internal filter, but you will want to consider oversizing given the waste production of these animals.

These not-so-small amphibians are quite clumsy swimmers. If the flow in your filtered aquarium is too strong, your axolotl will quickly become exhausted fighting against the current. This exhaustion will lead to stress and ultimately illness and early death.

If you’re unsure if your tank has too much flow, observe your axolotl. Most axolotls will hold their gills more forward than usual when stressed by the flow in your aquarium.

Sponge filters are an excellent choice for axolotl tanks. Despite how effectively they filter waste, they still create a relatively low flow compared to many other filters and pumps available on the market. Sponge filters also increase aeration and oxygen levels which takes care of both problems in one go.

Lighting

Amphibian enthusiasts will tell you that axolotls do just fine without any lighting in their tanks. In fact, they even prefer tanks without any aquarium lights. Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and this means they will be most active in the dark or in the dim lighting provided by the room’s external lighting.

If planted tank lights are required in your aquarium for growing living plants, it is very important to make sure your axolotl has a dark hiding spot to get away from it all. Axolotls don’t have great eyesight, but their eyes are very sensitive to bright light.

You will notice your axolotl only emerging once the lights in your tank go out. To minimize the time your axolotl needs to hide, make sure to choose plants with low light requirements such as anubias nana, cryptocorynes, and java fern.

Water Parameters

Axolotls aren’t too picky when it comes to their water parameters. As long as you stay in the tolerated range, you should have minimal problems.

This doesn’t mean you can skip on doing tank maintenance, however. Aquarium water can go from good to terrible fairly quickly.

If you have some experience in the aquarium hobby, you will know how important it is to test your water regularly. To do this you will need an aquarium water test kit.

This water test kit should give you an idea of what your water parameters look like with the exception of temperature. You’ll need a thermometer to check that.

If you’re wondering what normal axolotl water parameters are, take a look below:

• Water temperature: The acceptable range for water temperature is 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for this species, however, is between 60 and 64 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 18°C).
• pH: The acceptable range for pH is 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for your axolotl tank will be 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

Try to keep the temperature within the temperature range provided. If the tank water constantly warms up to beyond the acceptable range, you might need an aquarium chiller.

The warmer the water, the more stressed your axolotl will become. Warmer water contains less oxygen than cooler water. Axolotls require lots of oxygen to stay healthy which means better aeration is required. If the axolotl just can’t adapt to the change or the aeration isn’t sufficient, it will become stressed and die.

In an emergency, cool the water by adding ice cubes made from fish-safe, treated water. In the case of the water being too cold, simply install an aquarium heater to regulate the temperature.

Make sure to install a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature in your tank.

Tank Mates

Not all creatures do well as tank mates for axolotls. Some fish will nip at their feathery gills. Axolotls are also nocturnal which means they can easily ambush sleeping fish for a quick meal. If you’re still wondering what to place in the tank with your walking fish, take a look at the following suggestions.

Suitable Tank Mates

• Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
• Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
• Guppies
• Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
• White cloud minnows
• Other species of peaceful cool water fish

Tank Mates To Avoid

• Goldfish (Fancy goldfish may work as companions for axolotls)
• Cichlids
• Cory catfish
• Otocinclus catfish
• Any species of aggressive or very large fish

Cory catfish and otocinclus catfish may seem harmless to your axolotl. Unfortunately, these fish do have spines on their dorsal and pectoral fins which can cause fatal injuries to your axolotl if it attempts to eat one of them.

Cycling The Tank

It is very important to prepare your axolotl’s tank at least one month before your new buddy arrives. This allows good bacteria to grow in your tank which in turn stabilizes the water parameters.

These bacteria are responsible for breaking down ammonia which is produced by uneaten food particles as well as axolotl waste. Ammonia is a toxic substance if left untreated.

After being broken down by the bacteria it will be turned into nitrites and then nitrates. Nitrites are still toxic, but the ultimate product, nitrates, is relatively harmless.

If your tank is maintained properly, you should never have spikes in ammonia and nitrites as long as your aquarium is properly cycled beforehand.

Tank Maintenance

Axolotl care starts with proper aquarium maintenance. You will need to do 20% water changes weekly to control the water quality in the tank. A gravel vacuum will come in handy here for siphoning waste from the bottom of the tank.

Before adding new water to the tank, however, make sure it is treated with a water conditioner. Conditioning tap water removes any harmful chemicals such as chlorine from the water.

Your axolotls will spend their entire lives in this tank, so make sure they have the healthiest environment possible.

Keeping Multiples in Your Tank

If you plan on keeping more than one axolotl, start with a minimum tank size of 55 gallons. For every additional axolotl after that add another 10 gallons.

This will allow for the appropriate amount of water to prevent ammonia spikes, prevent aggression, and ultimately unnecessary deaths. Experienced keepers take interest in breeding Axolotls. I have a separate article for that if you are interested here.

FAQS

Is the Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything) Right for You?

Before you add a axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Axolotl Tank Setup (Temperature Is Everything) Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) stacks up against some common alternatives.

The axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the axolotl tank setup (temperature is everything) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about setting up an axolotl tank you should have no problems designing your own. Just remember to set up a decent filtration system and provide lots of hiding places for your axolotl to relax in.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.