Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Fancy guppies from pet stores are genetically fragile. Decades of inbreeding for color have produced fish that die from diseases wild guppies shrug off. The gap between a well-bred guppy and a mass-produced one is the difference between a fish that thrives for years and one that dies in weeks.

Where you buy your guppies matters more than how you keep them.

Guppies get written off as beginner fish, and while that’s fair. They’re genuinely forgiving. The variety within the species is something most hobbyists underestimate. Fancy guppies have been selectively bred for decades into dozens of distinct tail shapes and color patterns: delta tails, veil tails, sword tails, mosaic patterns, cobra patterns, and more. Serious guppy breeders treat this like a competitive show hobby, and the results are impressive. Even if you’re not getting into breeding, knowing the different types helps you pick what you actually want instead of grabbing whatever the store happens to have. Here are 21 guppy varieties worth knowing.

What People Get Wrong About Guppies

Guppies get labeled as beginner fish and then get kept in conditions that no beginner fish should have to tolerate. The assumption that livebearers don’t need water quality is wrong. Ammonia, nitrite, and high nitrates hit guppies hard, especially fancy varieties. A stable, cycled tank with regular water changes is not optional for long-term success with guppies.

The second major mistake is the male-to-female ratio. Most people who buy guppies grab a few of each and mix them together. The result is that males relentlessly pursue females. Females die young from stress and exhaustion. The correct ratio is two to three females per male, minimum. Keep all males if you don’t want the ratio issue (and no breeding).

Third: fin-nipping tank mates destroy fancy guppies fast. Those long, flowing tails are not compatible with tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or any known nipper. The damage is permanent and opens the door to infections.

What Is a Guppy Fish?

Guppies are small fresh and brackish water fish from the Poeciliidae family. There are many popular aquarium fish in this group, including mollies, plays, and swordtails. They are livebearers, which means they do not lay eggs but rather give birth to live free-swimming fry.

Here is a YouTube from my YouTube channel to get you started. I’ll go into more in detail in this post. If you like videos like this, please make sure to like and subscribe!

Read on to learn all about guppies, their care, and the different types that you can keep and breed!

What Makes Them Such Great Pets?

Guppies are probably the best beginners fish in the hobby, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t excellent for experienced fishkeepers too.

Guppies are:

• Very affordable
• Highly attractive
• Easy to care for
• Easy to breed
• Active and fascinating to watch

Guppies seem to have it all!

In Their Natural Habitat

Guppies are adaptable to a variety of natural habitats in their native distribution. They prefer slow-moving or still waters and are most at home in pools of streams and rivers or ponds and swamps. These fish are mostly found in freshwater although they have been recorded in brackish water too.

Guppy fish have also established populations all over the world after being released into the wild to control mosquito larvae. They also populate local waterways when they are released from fish tanks or escape from ponds. Who knows, there could even be some wild guppies near your home!

The History Of Guppy Keeping

The guppy was first sent to Europe from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. The name of the man responsible for introducing this fish to the hobby was Robert John Lechmere Guppy, and the year was 1866. The fish was officially named Giradinus guppyi¹.

He was not the first European to discover the fish, however, that honor goes to a German man named Julius Gollmer who found these fish in the wild many years before. Guppies have been kept for over 150 years, and they are just as popular as ever!

The International Guppy Associations

Fancy guppies are bred and kept all over the world. International associations have been created to bring hobbyists together and attempt to standardize the hobby. The International Fancy Guppy Association (IGFA) is one of the best examples.

IGFA was founded in 1965 and has developed show standards for the various breeds of fancy guppy. They are also a great resource for keepers who would like to learn more about the fascinating world of guppy breeding.

The IKGH is another very important international association that was formed in 1981. They have been active in the guppy breeding hobby ever since, holding regular shows and competitions all over the world.

3 Types by Species

There are many wild guppy fish species, but the three most commonly kept types are listed below.

1. Micropoecilia picta

• Common name: Scarlet livebearer, swamp guppy, painted guppy
• Adult size: 1.2 inches
• Origin: South America, Caribbean
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Water type: Fresh/brackish
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

The scarlet livebearer is a brackish water species that is found in the Caribbean and Countries like Brazil and Guyana. They are also known as swamp guppies or painted guppies.

They have red or orange overall color but are also boldly marked with various other colors. Females swamp guppies are larger than males. They are a hard water species and they are at home in slightly brackish water.

2. Poecilia wingei

• Common name: Endler’s livebearer, Endler’s guppy
• Size: 1-1.8 inches
• Origin: Venezuela
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Water type: Fresh/brackish
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

Endler’s livebearer is an awesome nano guppy species from Venezuela in South America. Endler guppies reach a maximum size of about 1.8 inches. The males are much smaller and more colorful than the females.

3. Poecilia reticulata

• Common name: Common guppy, fancy guppy
• Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
• Origin: South America, Caribbean
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Water type: Fresh/brackish
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

The common guppy is one of the most popular aquarium fish on the planet. These fish are available in a huge variety of breeds known as fancy guppies.

They are native to the northeastern parts of South America and the Caribbean islands. They grow to about 2.5 inches in length, with females growing larger than males.

21 Types by Variety

Now that you know a little more about guppies and their history, it’s time to learn about some of the amazing fancy guppy varieties out there in the hobby. I’ll provide a brief explanation of the most important features of each type.

Before we get started, here are a few important terms to know:

• Dorsal fin: The fin on the back of a fish. The shape and length of this fin are important for identifying many of the fancy guppy breeds.
• Pectoral fin: The pectoral fin is located on the side of a fish’s body, just behind its head. There is a pectoral fin on either side of the body.
• Caudal fin: Caudal fin is the technical name for a fish’s tailfin. Tail shape and tail patterns vary pretty extensively between the different guppy types.

Now that we’re all up to speed on the fancy fishy words, let’s jump right in and meet some fancy guppies!

1. Fantail

The fantail guppy is a very common breed that is easy to find. The males have large, beautiful caudal fins that are about as long as the fish’s body! The standard for the breed is a long, triangular tail with straight edges.

The dorsal fin is also a distinctive feature of this breed. It should sweep back to about the first third of the tail.

2. Delta Tail

The delta tail guppy (video source) is also known as the triangle tail guppy. They are very similar to the fantail guppies but the outer edge of their tail is slightly convex (rounded outwards). Delta tail guppies come in all sorts of different colors and patterns.

3. Lyretail

Lyretail guppies have very interesting tail shapes. In case you were wondering, a lyre is an ancient U-shaped musical instrument, and that’s where these fish get their name.

This tail shape is similar to the double swordtail, but the extensions curve outwards slightly, instead of being straight and parallel.

4. Roundtail

Round tail guppies (video source) have a circular tail fin with a diameter about half the length of their body. Their dorsal fin is pretty long and has a rounded end. The round tail guppy breed is available in a huge range of different colors and patterns, so there’s a round tail to suit any fishkeeper’s eye!

5. Half-moon Tail

https://youtu.be/Ub1VsZY-0Q0

The half-moon tail guppy (video source) is similar to the round tail but has a larger, fuller caudal fin. The tail is semicircular, starting at 90 degrees (right angles) to the fish’s body.

The tail is not quite as long as the body but is even taller than the fish is long! The dorsal fin on halfmoon tail guppies is also large and overlaps the tail a little.

6. Spear Tail

The spear tail guppy is another interesting fancy guppy breed. These fish have rounded tails that form a point in the middle, just like a spear tip.

The dorsal fin shape of this breed is also a great feature. It starts at nearly 90 degrees to the body and sweeps back to about a third of the length of the tail fin.

7. Pin Tail

The pintail or needle tail guppy (video source) has a small circular tail shape with a sharp point extending from the middle. It is very similar to the spear tail guppy in this respect, but the pointed caudal fin is even more prominent in this breed. The dorsal fin is also quite long and sharply pointed, creating a bold and dramatic-looking fancy guppy.

8. Tuxedo

Tuxedo guppies (video source) are very elegant little fish, just as their name suggests! This popular breed was first developed in Germany.

The tail half of their body is black or another solid color. The tail and dorsal fin will also be a different color to the dark half of the body, but without any spots or patterning.

9. Sword Tail

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There are a few different varieties of the swordtail fancy guppy breed. The swordtail breed of the fancy guppy should not be confused with the swordtail fish (Xiphophorus hellerii) which grows much larger.

Double swordtail guppies have both the top and bottom of their tail fins elongated to form a sword shape. They can also be found in top or bottom swordtail forms where only one end of the tail is pointed. The middle section of the tail should not be colored, and this really makes the ‘swords’ stand out.

10. Cobra

Cobra guppies come in a variety of colors, but it is their markings that set them apart. These amazing fancy guppies have a combination of reticulated markings and often have darker vertical bars too. The markings on their tails are often bolder than those on their bodies.

11. Lace

Lace guppies have incredibly intricate markings on their body and fins. They are similar to cobra guppies but lack the vertical bars on their body. Lace guppies are available in various colors, including red, gold, black, and many others.

12. Mosaic Tail

Mosaic tail guppies have amazing markings on their tails and dorsal fins. The markings are similar to those of the lace guppy, only much bolder. The tail coloration of this breed becomes darker and more intense from the start of the fin to the back.

13. Albino

Albino guppies lack pigment, which makes them pinkish-white overall. This makes for a tropical fish that really stands out in the aquarium.

Their eyes are also a pinkish color, which differentiates them from other white guppies. Albino guppies can have some color though, they often show some red, yellow, or blue markings on their bodies and fins.

14. Japanese Blue

Japanese blue guppies (video source) have a metallic dark blue to sky blue color on the tail half of their bodies. The head is often golden or reddish in this breed. The Japanese blue swordtail guppy is a particularly popular tail shape form of this breed.

15. Green

Green guppies are one of the best color schemes if you ask me. They are relatively rare, but available in many different patterns and tail shape types.

16. Yellow

Yellow (video source) is a very cheerful color, and a bunch of sunshine-colored guppies can make for a great display. Yellow guppies are available in various breeds including yellow tuxedos, and yellow cobra guppies.

17. Half Black Green

The half-black green guppy has a black back half of its body and a green front. There are many different half-black color combinations, but green is one of the rarest forms.

18. Koi

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A post shared by Pecinta Guppy Indonesia (@koi__guppy)

This fancy guppy fish breed is named after another popular fish. Like their larger namesake, koi guppies have a combination of white, red, and black colors.

19. Panda

The panda guppy (video source) is mostly black/blue and white in color. The tail half of the fish be dark while the front half is a silvery color. These fish have dark pectoral fins and dark eyes too.

20. Dragon

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A post shared by Abqary’s Guppy (@abqarysguppy)

Dragon guppies have one of the most dramatic color schemes of all the breeds. These fish are known for their fiery red fins with a half-black guppy body.

21. Dumbo Ear

Dumbo ear guppies (video source) have huge pectoral fins that look almost like the ears of an elephant! Even though their name sounds kind of goofy, these fish take finnage to the extreme and they are incredibly graceful and beautiful to watch.

Other Notable Types

Just in case you’re interested in even more types of guppies, here’s a list of some other popular types that you can look for!

Color types

• Half black purple guppy
• Half black blue guppy
• Half black yellow guppy
• Half black pastel guppy
• Blue guppy
• Red guppy
• black guppy
• Neon blue guppy
• Purple guppy
• Bronze guppy
• Glass guppies

Tail types

• Flag tail guppy
• Fire tail guppy
• Leopard tail guppy
• Grass tail guppy

Keeping and Caring

After looking at all the amazing types of guppies in this article, you might have already chosen a favorite and be thinking of adding them to your collection. Read this section to learn the basics of caring for these fantastic fish!

Tank Setup

Guppies is kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons. Such a small tank would only be appropriate for a small group of male fish, however.

The last thing you want is for these fish to start breeding and overpopulating a small tank, so I would suggest going up to a 20-gallon or larger if you plan on keeping a mixed group.

Filtration

Adequate filtration is really important for keeping tropical fish healthy, and guppies are no exception. There are many makes and models available, and any type that is rated for your aquarium size or larger will do.

You don’t need the most expensive filter to maintain healthy guppies, but I would recommend running a slightly oversized model. An even better choice is to run two filters. Not only will this provide you with a safety net should one fail, but it will also allow for the increased bioload once your fish begin breeding. A power filter is the best combo of filtration capacity and budget when it comes to guppies.

Heating

Guppies are hardy fish that are comfortable in temperatures down to the lower 70s (Fahrenheit). Pregnant female guppies have been reported to be more susceptible to ich at lower temperatures, however, so maintaining breeding fish at 78-80°F is advised. Using an aquarium heater will make this much easier!

Lighting

Guppies do not have any special lighting needs. Standard fluorescent or LED lighting will suit them just fine. You will only need to look into high-quality lighting if you wish to grow a lot of live plants.

Provide your guppies with a regular light period of 6 to 8 hours a day. Using a timer will make keeping regular timing much easier.

Live Plants

Guppies thrive in planted aquariums and the cover that plants create provides a great place for guppy fry to hang out. Plants are also very useful for increasing oxygen levels and taking up nitrates from the water column.

Although guppies will nip at decaying plant material and eat microorganisms from your plants, they do not damage live plants. Guppies prefer hard, alkaline water, so your choice of plants is slightly more limited.

Here are a few easy plants that you can grow in your aquarium:

• Water wisteria
• Java moss
• Java fern
• Amazon frogbit

Decor

Guppies are not fussy when it comes to ornaments and decorations. They are confident and active little fish that do not hide out too much. Choose your decorations based on the style or theme of the aquarium you are putting together, and don’t be afraid to use your creativity!

Remember though, only use aquarium-safe decorations and make sure you wash them carefully before adding them to the tank.

How To Care

Guppies are very easy fish to care for, but there are still some important things you should know before bringing them home. Read on for more information.

Tank Maintenance

Perform a partial water change at least every second week in your guppy tank to keep nitrate levels down. If your tank is heavily stocked, or you’re feeding the tank frequently because you have a lot of fry, you might want to increase this to once or even twice a week. Remember to use a water conditioner if you are using tap water in your aquarium.

The only way to know whether you’re doing enough tank maintenance is to measure your water parameters regularly. Pick up a liquid or strip test kit for this purpose.

Be very careful when performing water changes if you have a lot of fry in the aquarium. I suggest carefully inspecting the water you take out of the tank just in case any fry get sucked up!

Apart from regular water changes, all you really need to do is clean your glass with an algae scraper when necessary and follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter.

Important Water Parameters

• Water temperature: 72-80°F
• pH: 7-8
• Hardness: 143. 536 ppm
• Nitrate: Less than 20 ppm
• Nitrite: 0 ppm
• Ammonia: 0 ppm

Feeding

Guppies are naturally omnivorous and the modern domestic guppy is not fussy about diet at all. A high-quality flake food is a perfect everyday food source for these fish.

For a more balanced diet, I recommend supplementing their diet with an unprocessed food source like bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. These are available frozen so they are very easy to use. A small amount of these once or twice a week will improve your fish’s health and condition.

Tankmates

One of the best things about guppies is their peaceful nature. They are confident little fish that are always active and visible in the aquarium. They get along great with many other tropical freshwater fish.

The most important factor to consider when picking guppy tankmates is their water parameter compatibility. Guppies thrive in hard, alkaline water, so their tank mates should be comfortable in the same environment.

Let’s take a look at some good guppy tank mates, and some species to avoid.

Good Tankmates

• Mollies
• Swordtails
• Platys
• Dwarf neon rainbowfish
• Least killifish
• Corydoras catfish

Tankmates to Avoid

• Tiger barbs
• Serpae tetras
• Fish that need soft acidic water
• Large cichlids

Health and Disease

Guppies are hardy fish, so they are not especially prone to any problems. As a rule, the best way to prevent health issues is to minimize stress. Let’s take a look at some of the best ways to prevent guppy illness:

• Perform regular aquarium maintenance for great water quality
• Avoid overfeeding your fish
• Avoid overstocking your aquarium
• Maintain appropriate water parameters
• Avoid aggressive tank mates

Unfortunately, poor health and disease can happen even when you’re doing everything right. Here are some of the most common guppy health issues to look out for:

• Ich (white spot disease)
• Columnaris (Saddleback/ cotton wool disease)
• Hexamita (Hole in the head)
• Camallanus worm

Breeding

Breeding guppies is extremely easy, so this is a great species to get started with if you’ve never bred tropical fish before. Guppies are livebearers, which means that female guppies give birth to live baby fry. Each female guppy can give birth every month, which means you’re guppy population can grow very quickly!

Female guppies can breed after just 2- 3 months, although it is better to let them grow a little older before they start breeding. Such a short generation time makes guppies an amazing species for breeding projects.

Sexing

Sexing guppies is very easy because adults are sexually dimorphic. This means there are clear physical differences between the sexes that are easy to spot. Let’s take a closer look at some of these guppy sex differences:

• Body size

Overall size is probably the most obvious difference between male and female guppies. Adult females are significantly larger than males.

• Body shape

Female guppies have a much more rounded body shape than males, especially when they are pregnant. Males have a very slender build.

• Finnage

Male guppies have much larger fins in comparison with their body size. Their fins are much more heavily patterned and colored too.

The anal fin of male guppies is modified into a structure known as the gonopodium. It is narrow and elongated in comparison to the triangular anal fin of the female.

• Color

Male guppies are much more boldly marked and colorful than females in general.

Pregnant female guppies do have a unique marking that easily identifies them from males, however. Look out for a dark triangular marking on the belly, just in front of the anal fin. This marking is known as the gravid spot and will confirm that the fish is a pregnant female.

• Behavior

Female guppies spend most of their time foraging while males spend a lot of time swimming around the females, trying to get their attention.

Caring for fry

Guppy fry are easy to care for. The fact that they are born live means that you don’t have to worry about egg predation from the other fish in the tank. Unfortunately, adult guppies have no problem eating guppy fry, so it is best to separate them to increase the survival rate of the babies.

Catching all the tiny fry to move them to a separate tank is not going to be easy. Moving a pregnant female over to your fry tank is a much better option! You can go ahead and move the mother fish back into the main tank once she has given birth.

Another great option, which is less stressful on the pregnant female is to add a breeder box to your tank. If you’re not too worried about some of the babies being snacked on, simply growing some floating plants in the tank will provide them with a place to hide out until they are big enough to swim out in the open. I’ve found that water wisteria works great for this, but Java moss will work just as well or even better.

Guppy fry are tiny but hardy little fish. They is fed the same flake food as the adults, but you’re going to want to crush it up for them. You can use a pepper grinder for this or simply crush the flakes in the palm of your hand.

Preventing Breeding

While breeding guppies may be a fun and fascinating hobby, it is important to have a plan for the fry! The only reliable way to prevent guppies from breeding is to keep only male or only female fish.

Mature females are often already pregnant when you bring them home, so males are a safer bet. When buying female guppies for a breeding project, look for females without very swollen bellies and obvious gravid spots.

Where to Buy

Most local pet stores will sell mutt guppies, and sometimes also a selection of different breeds. For specific breeds, you need to order online or contact local clubs and breeders.

FAQS

Closing Thoughts

Guppies are one of the most genuinely diverse fish groups in the hobby. The variety in tail shape and color pattern is real, not marketing. If you’ve only ever kept common store guppies, you haven’t seen what this fish can actually look like when sourced from a quality breeder.

For beginners, a small group of fancy males in a 10-gallon (38 L) planted tank is one of the most rewarding and low-maintenance setups in freshwater. For experienced keepers, working with a specific variety or strain and breeding them selectively is a legitimate long-term project that serious hobbyists dedicate years to.

Where you source matters. I recommend Flip Aquatics (use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO) or Dan’s Fish for quality-bred fish that will actually live up to what guppies should be.

Not all gouramis are created equal. Some are peaceful centerpiece fish that thrive for a decade. Some will destroy everything in the tank. And one of the most popular species carries a viral disease in the majority of imported stock that kills it within a year.

The gourami you pick determines whether your community tank works or falls apart.

Here is what you actually need to know about 14 gourami species, including the disease warning nobody at the fish store tells you.

What Are Gouramis?

Gouramis belong to the Osphronemidae family and originate in South and Southeast Asia. Over 130 species exist, with a wide range represented in the aquarium trade. They come in every size from the tiny sparkling gourami at 1.5 inches (4 cm) to the giant gourami at over 24 inches (60 cm).

The defining feature is the labyrinth organ. Gouramis evolved in oxygen-poor, slow-moving water and developed the ability to breathe air directly from the surface. This is not optional behavior. It is how they survive. In a tank, this means the surface must always be accessible. Floating plants that block the entire surface are a real risk. So is a sealed lid without a gap.

Gouramis also have modified pelvic fins that extend into long, whisker-like feelers they use to sense their environment. Males use them to investigate territory and other fish. Watching a gourami probe the tank with its feelers is part of what makes them engaging to keep.

Most species are bubble nest builders. Males construct nests at the surface from bubbles coated in saliva, then guard the eggs and fry aggressively after spawning.

The Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus Problem

This needs its own section because most people never hear about it until their fish is already dying.

Dwarf gourami iridovirus (DGIV) is a megalocytivirus endemic in Southeast Asian fish farms, which is where essentially all dwarf gouramis in the hobby come from. Research published in aquatic disease journals has documented infection rates above 20 percent in imported shipments, and anecdotal reports from experienced hobbyists and retailers suggest the real rate is considerably higher.

The virus causes progressive immune system failure. Infected fish typically show color loss, swelling, lesions, and loss of appetite before dying. There is no treatment. The timeline from purchase to death is usually six months to a year, sometimes less.

This does not mean you cannot keep dwarf gouramis. It means you should buy from suppliers who source domestically or from reputable farms with disease management protocols, quarantine every dwarf gourami before adding it to a display tank, and have realistic expectations. A dwarf gourami that lives four to five years is a success. Many do not make it to two.

The honey gourami is the practical alternative. It does not carry DGIV at the same rate, it is equally peaceful and similarly sized, and it is genuinely harder in terms of water parameter tolerance. If you want a small, colorful gourami for a community tank, the honey gourami is the more reliable choice.

14 Best Gourami Types for Freshwater Aquariums

1. Honey Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Temperature: 72-81°F (22-27°C)
• pH: 6.0-7.5

The honey gourami is my recommendation for anyone who wants a small, colorful gourami for a community tank. It is genuinely peaceful, hardy enough to handle beginner water parameter fluctuations, and does not carry the iridovirus risk that plagues standard dwarf gourami imports. Males develop a deep golden-orange color when in breeding condition. This is the gourami I would send someone home with first.

2. Sparkling Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichopsis pumila
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
• pH: 5.0-7.5

The sparkling gourami is genuinely stunning in a planted nano tank. The iridescent turquoise on the body and fins catches light in a way that surprises people who do not expect much from a 1.5-inch (4 cm) fish. They are peaceful but do not keep them with shrimp. Those feelers are not just for sensing; sparkling gouramis hunt small invertebrates actively.

3. Licorice Gourami

• Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
• Difficulty Level: Moderate (for beginners: difficult)
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
• Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
• pH: 3.0-6.5

The licorice gourami is one of the most beautiful fish in the hobby and one of the most demanding. It needs very soft, acidic water, live food daily (they reject flakes and pellets reliably), and a calm, species-appropriate setup. This is a specialist fish for experienced keepers who have a blackwater tank already running. It is not a beginner gourami despite its small size.

4. Pearl Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 4.5 inches (11 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
• pH: 5.5-8.0

The pearl gourami is the most underrated gourami in the hobby. It is peaceful, genuinely stunning with its intricate pearl spotting and red-orange breast on males, and hardy enough for a beginner with a properly established tank. This is the gourami I would recommend as a centerpiece fish in a community setup over any dwarf variety. Up to ten years of lifespan. Takes a range of foods. Does not cause trouble. There is very little downside.

5. Blue Gourami (Three Spot)

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 5-6 inches (13-15 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
• Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
• pH: 5.5-8.5

The blue gourami is a color variant of the three-spot gourami, along with gold and opaline variants. Hardy and easy to keep, but males are semi-aggressive, especially toward each other and other labyrinth fish. One male per tank. The blue color and size make it a visible, active tank presence, but pair it with fish that can hold their own. Timid fish do not do well as tankmates.

6. Kissing Gourami

• Scientific Name: Helostoma temminkii
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Temperature: 71-86°F (22-30°C)
• pH: 6.0-8.0

The “kissing” behavior is not affection. It is a dominance display. Two kissing gouramis pressing their mouths together are establishing hierarchy, not bonding. This is important context because people buy two and expect them to be friends. They may or may not get along. At 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) they also need considerably more space than their typical retail tank size suggests, and they will eat soft-leaved plants.

7. Giant Gourami

• Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
• Difficulty Level: Moderate (tank size is the barrier)
• Temperament: Peaceful (but will eat small fish)
• Adult Size: 20-28 inches (51-71 cm), up to 18 inches (46 cm) in captivity typically
• Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons (757 L)
• Temperature: 68-86°F (20-30°C)
• pH: 6.5-8.0

Giant gouramis are sold as juveniles at 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm) and can fool people into thinking they are a reasonable aquarium fish. They are not reasonable for most hobbyists. They grow fast, they live 20 years, and they ultimately need a tank that most people do not have space or budget for. If you have that space and that commitment, they are genuinely personable fish that behave more like a large wet dog than a display animal.

8. Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
• Difficulty Level: Moderate (DGIV risk elevates this)
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches (6-8 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
• pH: 6.0-7.5

A color variant of the standard dwarf gourami with the same DGIV risk. Beautiful electric blue color with red accents. Males can be territorial toward each other. The DGIV caveat applies: buy from a reputable source, quarantine before adding to a display tank, and understand the shortened lifespan risk. The honey gourami is the safer alternative for most keepers.

9. Snakeskin Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 8-12 inches (20-30 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) as juveniles; needs 55+ gallons (208+ L) as adults
• Temperature: 72-86°F (22-30°C)
• pH: 5.8-8.5

The snakeskin gourami is possibly the most peaceful gourami species you can buy. The downside is that it grows to 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) and does not stay small. The 30-gallon (114 L) listed minimum is for juveniles. Adults need considerably more space. May eat smaller fish and occasionally nibble on plants. Easy to care for otherwise.

10. Gold Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 5-6 inches (13-15 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
• Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
• pH: 5.5-8.5

Same species as the blue gourami, different color variant. Rich golden-yellow with marbling on fins and body. Same care requirements, same semi-aggressive male behavior. If you want the three-spot gourami’s hardiness with different aesthetics, the gold variant is a solid choice.

11. Moonlight Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster microlepis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
• Temperature: 77-86°F (25-30°C)
• pH: 6.0-7.5

The moonlight gourami has less obvious color than most species on this list, but the silver-blue sheen at certain angles and the bright red feelers on males more than compensate. It does great in community tanks with other peaceful species. Pairs well with other peaceful gouramis as long as there is only one male per species.

12. Sunset Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
• pH: 6.0-7.5

The sunset gourami is one of the best community tank choices on this list. Golden orange coloration, peaceful toward tankmates and their own kind, and no inter-male aggression problems at the same scale as the dwarf gourami variants. Sometimes confused with the honey gourami sunset color form, so confirm labeling at the store.

13. Flame Dwarf Gourami

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
• Difficulty Level: Moderate (DGIV risk)
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches (6-8 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
• pH: 6.0-7.5

The flame dwarf gourami is a color variant of the dwarf gourami with solid golden-orange body and electric blue dorsal fin. Spectacular looking fish. Same DGIV risk as all dwarf gourami variants imported from Southeast Asia. If you buy one, source carefully and quarantine.

14. Blue Paradise Gourami

• Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 3 inches (8 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Temperature: 50-71°F (10-22°C)
• pH: 6.0-8.0

The blue paradise gourami’s tolerance for cooler water (down to 50°F/10°C) makes it unique in this group. It does not need a heater in most room-temperature homes. Aggressive around breeding, and males fight. Keep one male with two or more females. Do not add other labyrinth fish to a tank with a breeding male paradise fish.

Tank Setup

Tank size requirements vary enormously across this group. A sparkling gourami in 10 gallons (38 L) is well-housed. A giant gourami in that same 10 gallons is a welfare problem. Know the adult size of your chosen species before buying the tank.

Gouramis evolved in slow-moving, heavily vegetated water. Strong current stresses them. Aim for gentle filtration. A sponge filter works well for smaller species. For larger tanks, aim the power filter outlet at hardscape to break up the current. A spray bar attachment on a canister filter is the cleanest solution for bigger setups.

Plants are important. Gouramis feel more secure with plant cover and will show better color in a well-planted tank than in a bare or minimally-decorated setup. Good choices: java fern, anubias, cryptocoryne, vallisneria. Floating plants work well too, but leave significant open surface area for air breathing.

The surface access point bears repeating. If a gourami cannot reach the surface to breathe, it drowns. This is not a slow process. Make sure your lid has a gap, especially where the water sits close to the surface in heavily planted tanks.

Behavior and Feeding

Most gouramis accept a wide range of foods. Flake or pellet food as a base, supplemented with frozen and live foods, works for most species. More specialized species like the licorice gourami and chocolate gourami require live or frozen food exclusively, and they are not the fish to start with.

Males are territorial toward other males of the same species. This is not a rule you can work around with clever tank design in smaller tanks. One male per species per tank in anything under 55 gallons (208 L). Larger tanks with heavy planting and many sight breaks can sometimes accommodate two males of the same species, but this requires close monitoring.

Gouramis use their feelers constantly. Watching a gourami investigate new decorations, test water movement, or probe tank mates is part of the appeal. They are interactive fish that notice their environment in ways many community species do not.

Breeding

Most gouramis are bubble nest builders and reasonably easy to breed once conditioned. A shallow breeding tank of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) depth, slow filtration from a sponge filter, and water in the low 80s°F (around 28°C) is the standard setup. Feed live and frozen foods to condition the pair before attempting to spawn.

The male builds the bubble nest and guards it obsessively after spawning. Remove the female at this point because the male will become aggressive. Once the fry are free-swimming (usually 3 to 4 days after hatching), the male is typically removed as well, or the fry risk being eaten.

Feed fry infusoria or commercially available liquid fry food initially, transitioning to baby brine shrimp as they grow.

Tank Mates

Peaceful gouramis like the honey, pearl, sparkling, and moonlight species pair well with smaller schooling fish, corydoras, otocinclus, and other peaceful community species. Avoid fin-nippers. The long feeler fins are an obvious target and tiger barbs in particular will shred them.

Semi-aggressive species like the blue, gold, kissing, and paradise fish are better paired with fish that are similarly sized and not easily intimidated. Danios, barbs that are not notorious fin-nippers, and larger tetras work well.

Do not mix multiple labyrinth fish species in smaller tanks. Male bettas and male gouramis in the same tank is a common mistake. Both species see the other as competition, and the outcome is predictable.

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

Gouramis are some of the most varied and rewarding freshwater fish you can keep. The pearl gourami is genuinely one of the hobby’s underrated gems. The honey gourami is the practical beginner choice that outlasts the more commonly purchased dwarf gourami at most fish stores.

If you take nothing else from this article, take the DGIV warning seriously. The dwarf gourami iridovirus is real, it is common, and it is the reason so many of these fish die within a year of purchase. Shop from better sources, quarantine your fish, or choose a species that does not carry the same risk.

Where to Buy Gouramis

Gouramis are widely available, but quality varies significantly by source. For disease-reduced stock and healthier fish overall, online specialty retailers are often more reliable than chain fish stores that order from mass importers.

• Flip Aquatics – Reliable stock, quality fish, good selection of gourami species
• Dan’s Fish – Healthy fish, good availability across freshwater species including gouramis

Barbs are the fish that expose bad stocking decisions. Not because they are evil, but because they tell the truth about your tank. Keep tiger barbs in a group of four in a community tank with slow, long-finned fish, and your fish store will see you again in a week. Keep them in a group of ten with the right tank mates, and you have one of the most active, entertaining tanks in the hobby. The difference is not the fish. It is the keeper.

The real problem with barbs is not aggression. It is misinformation at the point of sale.

Barbs are a versatile group of freshwater aquarium fish. In this article, I will introduce 12 outstanding types you can keep, explain which ones work in community tanks and which ones do not, and give you the honest take on the group size issue that no one talks about clearly enough.

What Are Barbs?

Barbs are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. There is a huge number of wild fish species in this group and they range through Asia all the way to Southern Africa. Barbs are solidly built fish, usually with strong fins and well-developed scales.

They range in size from just an inch or so to large species measured in feet. Most popular aquarium species are 2 to 6 inches long. Many barb fish do well in cooler water temperatures, making them a solid choice for unheated aquariums. They are active, social schooling fish. That activity is what makes them fascinating in a well-planned tank and a nightmare in a poorly planned one.

Hard Rule: Barbs need groups of 6 or more. Under 6, they become a problem fish. That is not a guideline. It is the rule.

What People Get Wrong About Barbs

The biggest misconception in the hobby is that tiger barbs are inherently aggressive fish. They are not. They are schooling fish with social dominance hierarchies. In a small group, that energy has nowhere to go except toward the other fish in the tank. Slow-moving fish with long fins become targets. This is not malicious behavior. It is a natural schooling dynamic being redirected because the group is too small to contain it.

The second mistake is treating all barbs as one category. Cherry barbs are genuinely peaceful community fish. Tiger barbs and rosy barbs are semi-aggressive in any group under eight. Black ruby barbs sit somewhere in between. Lumping them together and saying barbs are semi-aggressive is the kind of generalization that sends customers home with the wrong fish.

The third mistake is tank mate selection. Bettas, angelfish, and fancy guppies do not belong in a tiger barb tank. Period. I have seen that combination play out hundreds of times in twenty-five years. It never ends well for the long-finned fish.

The Reality of Keeping Barbs

A well-stocked barb tank is one of the most dynamic setups in freshwater fishkeeping. Constant movement. Social posturing within the school. Color that deepens as the fish mature and feel secure. Feeding time is genuinely entertaining. They charge the surface, they compete, they show off. It is not a relaxing tank. It is an active one.

The trade-off is that barbs are not forgiving of bad tank mate choices. They are also plant nibblers in some cases. Rosy barbs will sample soft-leaved plants. If you have a carefully aquascaped tank built around delicate plants, think carefully before adding rosy barbs. Cherry barbs, on the other hand, are excellent in planted setups and will not touch the plants.

Water changes matter. Barbs are active metabolically and produce waste proportional to that activity. A 20 percent weekly water change is the starting point. Keep nitrates under 20 ppm. Their color and behavior will tell you immediately when water quality slips. Pale color and reduced activity are warning signs.

Top 12 Types of Barb Fish For Aquariums

Now that you know the real deal on barbs, here are 12 species worth knowing. To make selection easier, I have included the key facts you need: scientific name, difficulty, temperament, adult size, minimum tank size, diet, origin, temperature, pH, breeding difficulty, and planted tank suitability.

We have a video below from our YouTube Channel covering the top barb types in depth. If you find it useful, subscribe for new content every week.

1. Cherry

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Temperature: 68 to 80°F (20 to 27°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 8.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Excellent

The cherry barb is the barb that actually belongs in a community tank. It is peaceful with virtually every similarly sized fish, it does not nip, and in a planted tank the males turn a deep red that rivals anything in the hobby. This is the one I recommend most often to hobbyists who want barbs but have peaceful tank mates.

Cherry barbs are my first recommendation for anyone new to the group. Easy to care for, forgiving of minor water parameter swings, and visually striking when kept in a school of eight or more against a dark substrate with live plants.

2. Tiger

• Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 2 to 2.25 inches (5 to 5.7 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Sumatra, Borneo
• Temperature: 68 to 78°F (20 to 26°C)
• pH: 5.0 to 8.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible with robust plants

The tiger barb has earned its reputation as a fin-nipper, but that reputation is mostly the product of being kept wrong. In a group of eight to ten or more, tiger barbs direct their social energy inward. The hierarchy forms within the school. The nipping stays internal. Your other fish are left alone.

Keep fewer than six and you have a genuine problem fish. The school cannot contain its own energy. Long-finned tank mates like angelfish, bettas, and fancy guppies will get shredded. Do not put tiger barbs with long-finned fish under any circumstances, regardless of group size. That is a compatibility issue, not just a group size issue.

Tiger barbs come in several color forms: standard banded, green, albino, and platinum. All the same behavior. All the same group size requirement.

3. Gold (Chinese Barbs)

• Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 7.5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: China, Laos, Taiwan, Vietnam
• Temperature: 61 to 75°F (16 to 24°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 8.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible

The gold barb is often overlooked but it is one of the most reliable community barbs available. The golden morph that dominates the trade has highly reflective scales that catch the light in a way few fish at this price point can match. Like all barbs, keep them in a group of at least 6. A school of 10 against a dark substrate is genuinely striking.

Gold barbs tolerate cooler water down to about 61°F (16°C), making them one of the better options for an unheated room-temperature aquarium. Gold barbs are underrated. If you want an active, peaceful schooling fish that does not need a heater, this is one to consider seriously.

4. Rosy

• Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 7.5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh
• Temperature: 61 to 75°F (16 to 24°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 8.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible (will graze soft plants)

Rosy barbs are a deep-bodied, active species that comes in several varieties including long-finned forms. They are omnivores and will feed on soft plants, so a carefully aquascaped tank with delicate stems is at risk. That said, rosy barbs are one of the few fish that actively eat black brush algae (BBA), which makes them genuinely useful in a tank that struggles with that specific problem.

5. Denison

• Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: India (Kerala)
• Temperature: 59 to 77°F (15 to 25°C)
• pH: 6.5 to 7.8
• Difficulty to Breed: Advanced
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible

The Denison barb (also called the roseline shark and red-line torpedo barb) is one of the most visually impressive fish in the freshwater hobby. A school of six of these in a large, well-filtered tank with good water flow is a genuine showpiece. They need excellent water quality and space to swim. This is not a beginner fish, but for an experienced keeper with the right setup, they are worth every bit of the investment.

6. Tinfoil

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons (568 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, vegetables, and live/frozen foods
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 8.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Advanced
• Planted Tank Suitability: No

The tinfoil barb is beautiful. It is also the most commonly impulse-bought fish that ends up in a tank that is completely wrong for it. At 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm), it needs a minimum 150-gallon (568 L) aquarium, and honestly does better in a pond. They are peaceful and will not harass tank mates, but they will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. If you want to keep them, buy the tank first. Then buy the fish.

7. Odessa

• Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Myanmar
• Temperature: 61 to 77°F (16 to 25°C)
• pH: 6.5 to 8.5
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible

The Odessa barb is one of the most visually striking small barbs in the hobby. Males develop a vivid red lateral band that intensifies during breeding condition. This is a species that is easy to overlook at the fish store when it is young and pale, but give it a few months in a good tank and the color transformation is remarkable. Keep them in a group of at least 6. They are peaceful in adequate numbers.

8. Five-Banded (Pentazona)

• Scientific Name: Desmopuntius pentazona
• Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Southeast Asia (Malay Peninsula, Borneo)
• Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
• pH: 5.0 to 7.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Yes

The five-banded barb is a peaceful, smaller barb that does well in a planted blackwater setup. It is not as commonly available as tiger or cherry barbs, but it is worth seeking out if you want a well-behaved barb for a biotope or specialized tank. The five distinct vertical bands make for an attractive fish in the right setting.

9. Checker (Checkerboard)

• Scientific Name: Oliotius oligolepis
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Indonesia (Sumatra)
• Temperature: 68 to 79°F (20 to 26°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 7.5
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Yes

The checker barb gets its name from the bold checkerboard pattern on its flanks. It is peaceful, small, and well suited to a community planted tank. Not the most commonly available species, but worth looking for through specialty importers or online retailers.

10. Black Ruby

• Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
• Adult Size: 2 to 2.5 inches (5 to 6.5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Temperature: 68 to 80°F (20 to 27°C)
• pH: 5.5 to 7.5
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible

The black ruby barb is also known as the purple-headed barb. In breeding condition, the males develop intense ruby red and near-black coloration that makes them one of the most dramatic small barbs in the hobby. Keep them in a group of at least 6 to prevent semi-aggressive behavior toward tank mates. The females show bold vertical stripes similar to tiger barbs.

11. Snakeskin

• Scientific Name: Desmopuntius rhomboocellatus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Diet: Carnivorous lean, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: Borneo
• Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
• pH: 4.0 to 7.0
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate to advanced
• Planted Tank Suitability: Yes

The snakeskin barb (also called the rhombo barb) is one of the rarer barbs in the hobby and one of the most visually distinctive. The exotic boa-like markings are unlike anything else in the barb family. It thrives in a blackwater planted aquarium kept in a good-sized school. Not easy to find at typical fish stores, but worth sourcing from a specialist importer.

12. Panda (Melon Barb)

• Scientific Name: Haludaria fasciata
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
• Origin: India
• Temperature: 72 to 78°F (22 to 26°C)
• pH: 6.0 to 7.5
• Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
• Planted Tank Suitability: Possible

The melon barb (panda barb) is one of the most boldly patterned fish in the family. Three to five black bars on a body that ranges from peach through orange to red or even purple. The markings vary between individuals, which makes a school of them genuinely interesting to watch. Peaceful, easy to keep, and worth more attention than it typically gets.

Tank Setup

Setting up a tank for barbs is not complicated. They are hardy fish. But they are active fish, and that activity means they need space. Do not squeeze a tiger barb school into a 20-gallon (76 L) tank and expect good behavior. These are fast-moving, competitive fish. Give them room.

Substrate and Decorations

Natural hardscape elements like rocks and driftwood make barbs feel more secure. Keep decoration moderate. Barbs need open swimming lanes. A dark-colored substrate brings out the best color in almost every species in this group.

Lighting and Filtration

Barbs have no special lighting requirements. Most prefer dimmer conditions. Standard aquarium lighting works fine. For filtration, aim for 4 to 6 times the tank volume per hour. Most barbs prefer moderate flow. Denison barbs are the exception: they come from fast-moving river headwaters and need stronger flow and higher oxygen levels.

Heating

Many popular barb species tolerate temperatures into the low 60s Fahrenheit (around 17°C), which makes them one of the few active schooling fish that work in unheated aquariums. Check the specific temperature range for your chosen species. They vary more than most hobbyists realize.

Live Plants

Barbs do well in heavily planted tanks with floating plants to reduce light intensity. Most barb species are omnivores, so soft-leaved carpet plants and tender stems are at risk. Tough plants like Java fern, Anubias, and Amazon swords hold up well. Cherry barbs are the best barb for a planted tank if plant safety is a priority.

How To Care For Barbs

Barbs are relatively easy to care for once the stocking decisions are correct. Feed quality food. Maintain excellent water quality. Keep them in proper group sizes. Those three things cover the majority of what you need to do.

Aquarium Maintenance

Start with a 20 percent weekly water change. Keep nitrates at 20 ppm or below. Barbs are active and produce proportional waste. A good filtration system is not optional. Siphon substrate while draining. Clean glass as needed. Their behavior and color will signal any water quality issues before your test kit does.

Behavior and Feeding

Barbs are social fish that establish internal dominance hierarchies. That competition is the source of their energy. In a large enough school, it stays internal. In a small group, it redirects outward. This is not a personality defect. It is how schooling fish work.

Feed a staple diet of quality fish flakes or pellets. Supplement with live and frozen foods for best color and condition. Barbs are not picky eaters. Variety is better than overfeeding a single food.

Breeding

Barbs are egg scatterers that will eat their own eggs. Set up a separate breeding tank. Condition a small group with high-quality live and frozen foods like daphnia and bloodworms. Lower the pH slightly. Add tannin sources like oak leaves to trigger spawning behavior. Use a layer of round pebbles as an egg trap. Remove adults immediately after spawning. Eggs hatch in 24 to 48 hours.

Tank Mates

Tank mate selection for barbs is not about finding fish that tolerate barbs. It is about not setting up a situation where nipping is inevitable. The rules are simple and they do not have exceptions.

Tank Mates for Peaceful Barb Species

Peaceful barbs like cherry barbs are compatible with most similarly sized, active community fish. Good options include:

• Other peaceful barb species
• Otocinclus catfish
• Dwarf gourami
• Cory catfish
• Neon tetras and other active tetras
• Platys
• Danios
• Loaches
• Rasboras

Tank Mates for Semi-Aggressive Barb Species

• Other barbs (same or compatible species in adequate numbers)
• Clown loach
• Siamese algae eater
• Plecos
• Rainbow shark
• Mollies

Tank Mates to Avoid

These fish do not belong in a tank with semi-aggressive barbs under any circumstances:

• Angelfish
• Fancy guppies
• Goldfish
• Bettas
• Any large predatory species that will eat smaller barbs

Where To Buy

Common barb species like cherry barbs and tiger barbs are widely available at local fish stores. For less common species or for better quality stock, online retailers are often the better option. I recommend:

• Flip Aquatics for quality captive-bred stock and good selection
• Dan’s Fish for reliable online ordering

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Barbs are not difficult fish. They are fish that demand honest stocking decisions. Get the group size right. Get the tank mates right. Give them space. Do those three things and you have one of the most rewarding, active, visually interesting setups in freshwater fishkeeping.

Get any one of those things wrong and barbs will tell you about it immediately, through the fins of everything else in your tank.

If you want one barb for a community tank without thinking too hard about it, buy cherry barbs. If you want a dedicated barb display that people stop and look at, build a tiger barb tank with ten or more fish and the right tank mates. Both setups work. Neither works halfway.

Have questions about your barb setup? Leave them in the comments below.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide, your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks
• What Are Cory Catfish?
• 10 Best Cory Catfish Types
• Tank Setup
• How To Take Care Of Your Pet
• Where To Buy
• FAQs
• Is the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Right for You?
• How the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts

Corydoras catfish are my go-to recommendation for anyone asking what to keep on the bottom of a freshwater community tank. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept multiple cory species, and they consistently earn their place. Peaceful, hardy, entertaining to watch as they scoot along the substrate, and compatible with a huge range of tankmates. Two things I always flag before anyone buys: corys need to be kept in groups of at least six of the same species (mixed species groups don’t cut it socially), and they need soft, fine substrate to protect their barbels. Sharp gravel will damage those sensitive whiskers over time, and that’s one of the most common preventable cory health problems I see. This guide covers the 10 most popular species to help you find the right fit.

Six different corys is six lonely fish. Six of the same cory is a functioning social group.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks

The most common mistake I see with 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss are adaptable.

What Are Cory Catfish?

Cory catfish are small freshwater fish from the Corydoras genus. These shoaling fish are native to South America where an amazing 160+ species are known- with many more probably waiting to be described. They range in size from an inch or so to over 4 inches in length and are solidly built with armor-like scales.

Cory cats aren’t very colorful, but they are very entertaining to watch as they forage around in the tank, periodically shooting up to the surface to take a breath of air. They love to hang out in groups and should always be kept in schools in the aquarium.

Interestingly, the first ray of their pectoral fins forms a strong, sharp spine that may be tipped in toxic venom. This is probably an adaptation to make predators think twice about eating them. They are not aggressive at all, but it is best to not handle these fish with bare hands.

10 Best Cory Catfish Types

Now that you know a little more about these fish, it’s time to jump right in and get to know the 10 most popular types of cory catfish that you can keep. For each corydoras fish species, I’ll be providing the most important stats that you need to know, like:

• Scientific Name
• Difficulty Level
• Temperament
• Adult Size
• Minimum Tank Size
• Diet
• Origin
• Temperature
• pH
• Difficulty to breed
• Planted tank suitability

We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more blog detail below. If you like our video, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

So let’s get started!

1. Pygmy

• Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.2 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Brazil
• Temperature: 72-79°F
• pH: 6.4-7.4
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The pygmy cory is the perfect species for nano aquariums. These silvery schoolers have a prominent black line along their sides, from their eyes to their tails. Pygmy cories are extremely peaceful, and even a little shy around bigger, more boisterous fish.

Keep them with other small fish species to bring out the best in them. A group of at least 5 or more will look great and allow them to show their natural schooling behavior.

2. Longfin Panda

• Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Peru
• Temperature: 72-77°F
• pH: 6-7.4
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The longfin (video source) is a great variety of the regular panda cory. These schooling fish are an awesome choice for community aquariums.

The long and flowing caudal fin definitely adds to their appeal. Panda corydoras are very social and peaceful fish that love to hang out in a group, so be sure to order at least 5 of them to really enjoy their natural behavior.

3. Albino Aeneus

• Scientific Name: Corydoras aeneus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: South America
• Temperature: 70-81°F
• pH: 6-8
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

These albino corydoras catfish are a pure white version of the bronze cory catfish (Corydoras aeneus). Their pinkish-white coloration makes them really stand out, especially with good lighting and a dark background and substrate.

Albino bronze corys are solidly built little cory catfish that get a little larger than most other types of corydoras. They are a great choice for a peaceful community setup with other similarly sized tropical fish.

4. Panda Corydoras

• Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10-20 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Peru
• Temperature: 72-77°F
• pH: 6-7.4
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The panda cory is one of the most popular species in the hobby. These schooling fish are very recognizable with the black markings on their face, tail, and dorsal fin.

Panda cories bred in the aquarium trade are adapted to water temperatures in the mid-70s, but in the wild, they can survive in cooler water temperatures down to the upper 60s (Fahrenheit).

5. Habrosus

• Scientific Name: Corydoras habrosus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Venezuela & Colombia
• Temperature: 70-79°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The habrosus cory is commonly known as the salt and pepper cory. This nano fish species is very similar to the pygmy corydoras but is a little more boldly marked. Another good way to tell them apart is to look at the dark line down their sides – in this species, the line is broken.

Like Corydoras pygmaeus, these schooling cories are active swimmers that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. I suggest keeping at least 5 of these nano schoolers, but go for 10 or more if you have the room!

6. Paleatus

• Scientific Name: Corydoras paleatus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay
• Temperature: 72-78°F
• pH: 6-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The paleatus, or pepper cory catfish, is a great species of cory for beginners. These affordable fish are commonly known as the peppered corydoras because of their finely blotched pattern.

Peppered cory catfish should be kept in a small group to bring out the best in their personalities.

7. Sterba’s

• Scientific Name: Corydoras sterbai
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
• Temperature: 70-77° F
• pH: 6.2-7.8
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Sterba’s cory is one of my favorite corydoras of all. These stunning little cory catfish are very peaceful and look amazing in a tropical community aquarium.

Sterba’s cory is a pretty dark species, that is heavily marked with black lines and silver dots. Their most distinctive feature is probably the golden yellow color of their pectoral and pelvic fins.

8. Simillis Corydoras

• Scientific Name: Corydoras similis
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Brazil
• Temperature: 72-79°F
• pH: 6-8
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The similis cory (video source) is one of the best-looking species out there. They have a finely spotted body, with a darker area near the tail.

These cory catfish types are a great choice for a blackwater amazon biotope, but they will be very happy in a regular planted setup too.

9. Adolfo Cory-Cat

• Scientific Name: Corydoras aldolfoi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Brazil
• Temperature: 72-79°F
• pH: 5.8-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Corydoras catfish (video source) are not really known for bright colors, but the adolfo cory is certainly one of the bolder species! These fish are silvery-white with black markings and have a distinctive orange mark on their backs. They are most at home in acidic stained water.

10. False Julii-Cory

• Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
• Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Suriname
• Temperature: 72-79°F
• pH: 5.8-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The false julii cory catfish gets its name because it looks a lot like the regular julii corydoras catfish (Corydoras julii). They are striking little fish with silvery bodies covered in interesting plack patterns.

They are an active species that will entertain you with plenty of antics if kept in a nice school of at least 6.

Other Species

There are a huge number of different corydoras species. In fact, with more than 160 types of cory catfish, they form the largest genus of freshwater fish in the world!

Here’s a list of other common corydoras you might come across in pet stores and the aquarium trade.

• Julii cory – Corydoras julii
• Bandit cory – Corydoras metae
• Three stripe cory – Corydoras trilineatus
• Leopard cory – Corydoras leopardus
• Skunk cory – Corydoras arcuatus
• Dwarf corydoras – Corydoras hastatus
• Orange laser cory – Corydoras aeneus
• Agassizi cory – Corydoras agassizi

Tank Setup

Setting up a great tank for cory catfish is easy. The nano species like pygmy corydoras can thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but many of the larger species will do much better in community tanks of at least 30 gallons or so. As with all aquarium fish, the bigger the tank the better!

Let’s take a look at how to set up your aquarium for cory catfish.

Substrate & Decorations

Choosing the right substrate is more important for keeping cories than you might think! These cory catfish have fine whisker-like structures around their mouths that are known as barbels. These barbels are used to forage for food in the substrate, but they can be easily damaged on sharp gravel.

This is known as barbel erosion and its causes are not universally agreed on. Fine sand is the best substrate choice because this is what the fish are able to dig through without hurting themselves.

A layer of just half an inch or less is ideal because it will allow the fish to search right down to the bottom of the tank and consume any uneaten food.

Live Plants

Growing some floating plants and epiphytes in the tank can enhance the look of your aquarium while improving water quality and oxygenation. The following species are easy to grow and don’t need any special lighting or equipment:

• Java Moss
• Java Fern
• Anubias nana
• Red root floater

Lighting & Filtration

Most types of cory catfish prefer low lighting, but they will also be very happy in a well-lit planted tank, especially if the plants provide some shade. They will also enjoy some hides and caves in the form of ornaments or carefully arranged hardscapes.

Cory catfish need great water quality, so a good quality water filtration system is essential. Many breeders make use of simple sponge filters, but a canister, hang-on back, or internal power filter is a more aesthetically pleasing option for a beautiful display tank.

Any filter you select should provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Choose a model that matches your aquarium tank size and is able to process the volume of water about 5 times every hour.

How To Take Care Of Your Pet

Cory catfish are simple to care for, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in the fish-keeping hobby. With the right tank setup, good maintenance, and a high-quality diet, these fish can provide you with years of enjoyment in a tropical community tank.

Read on to learn more about caring for these fun little bottom feeders!

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is especially important when keeping cory catfish. These fish do not tolerate poor water quality well and can be affected by serious conditions like barbel erosion in a neglected tank.

Stay on top of your maintenance by performing a simple water change each week. Make sure to clean the substrate thoroughly with your gravel vacuum, because this is where your cory catfish forage and hang out.

You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor the water parameters in your tank. The test results should always read zero parts ammonia and nitrites in a fully cycled aquarium. Nitrates will build up naturally in any stocked aquarium but should be kept to below 20 parts per million.

Behavior & Feeding

Most cory catfish are bottom dwellers that spend their time digging through the substrate or resting on the sand. They can be very active too and often enjoy swimming up and down the tank at high speed. They are very social creatures and just love shoaling together.

The nano species like habrosas and pygmy corys are a little different. They are more active swimmers and will spend their time schooling in the midwater levels of the tank.

Cory catfish are omnivorous and will eat just about any food source you provide. Unfortunately, some inexperienced fishkeepers make the mistake of not feeding them at all. While they do make an awesome part of the clean-up crew, this doesn’t mean they don’t need a high-quality diet.

Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

• Flake foods and granules
• Sinking pellets and wafers
• Gel foods
• Frozen foods
• Live baby brine shrimp
• Black worms

Breeding

Cory catfish can be bred at home with a little planning and preparation. You’ll need a separate breeding tank of about ten gallons or so with a simple sponge filter for the best results. You should put in a spawning mop of synthetic wool or a live plant like java moss where the females can deposit their eggs.

A group of 2 females and four males is a good bet and they should be well-conditioned after moving them into the breeding tank. The males are a little smaller than the females and have more pointed fins. Feeding them a high-quality diet including plenty of live/frozen food will get the fish ready to spawn.

Frequent water changes are necessary and replacing the old water with slightly cooler water will often trigger spawning. The spawning behavior is interesting to watch, with the pair forming a T-shape. The eggs are laid on the spawning mop or even just the aquarium glass.

Remove the adults once eggs have been laid. They should hatch after about 5 days and will need to be fed a diet of micro worms once they reach the free-swimming stage.

Tankmates

All types of cory catfish are the perfect fish for community tanks because they are just so peaceful. Most species can be kept with adult shrimp, but you can expect juvenile shrimp to be snacked on.

Cory catfish should only be kept with other small fish that won’t bully them, or try to eat them. They can be kept with other bottom-dwelling species, but take care not to overstock your tank with bottom-feeders. Let’s take a look at some other fish that can be kept with corydoras:

• Cardinal tetras
• Angelfish
• Otocinclus catfish
• Danios
• Apistogramma and rams
• Livebearers like guppies
• Other corydoras catfish
• Betta fish

Where To Buy

Corydoras are such popular fish that you can find them at most pet shops and aquarium stores. There are some great online retailers like Flipaquatics that have made a name for themselves by selling high-quality stock and making the delivery process super easy and safe for the fish too.

FAQs

Expert Take

Corydoras are one of my favorite fish to recommend because they consistently reward keepers who actually meet their needs. The species matters less than people think. The group size matters more. A school of 8 in the right setup will be more active, healthy, and visible than any species kept as a trio. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner. Most corydoras species are beginner-friendly with standard water parameters. Group size and soft substrate are the keys to success.

Hard Rule: Corydoras must be kept in groups of 6 or more, preferably with their own species. A pair or trio will hide, stop foraging, and deteriorate over months. Group size is non-negotiable.

The Reality of Keeping Corydoras

Corydoras are deceptively active when kept in appropriate numbers. A school of 8 in a clean, planted tank is constantly moving, foraging, and investigating the substrate. A pair in an empty tank just sits in a corner looking miserable. The difference is entirely about group size and setup. They are also sensitive to sharp gravel. Their barbels will erode on rough substrate, which you may not notice until they stop foraging.

Is the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Right for You?

Before you add a 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:

• You want to keep just one or two corydoras. They need groups of 6+ to thrive
• You have sharp gravel or coarse substrate that will damage their barbels over time
• You expect them to fully clean a tank’s waste. They are foragers, not vacuums
• You keep aggressive tank mates that chase or outcompete them for food at the bottom

How the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.

The 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Cory catfish are amazing pets for tropical freshwater aquariums. They stay small, are sweet-natured, and help to clean up uneaten food from their messy tank mates! Choosing the perfect species can be tough with all the options, but the ten fish in this list are all worth considering for your aquarium.

What are your favorite types of cory catfish? Let me know in the comments below!

Rasboras are one of those fish families I keep coming back to after 25 years in this hobby. They’re diverse, peaceful, and ideally suited to the planted nano tanks that have become so popular. The harlequin rasbora is the most iconic. a lot of hobbyists’ first schooling fish. but the family includes chili rasboras, lambchop rasboras, galaxy rasboras (celestial pearl danios), and more, each bringing something distinct to a planted setup. One thing I always mention to people getting started with rasboras: most prefer softer, slightly acidic water. Many will adapt to neutral conditions, but they genuinely thrive when the parameters reflect their natural blackwater habitat. This guide covers 11 of the best species worth considering.

What Are Rasboras?

Rasboras are freshwater fish from the Cyprinidae family. That family might sound familiar because it is the same group that includes other well-known aquarium fish like barbs, goldfish, and koi.

Many of the tiny species were originally placed in the Rasbora genus, butscientists have since split them up into a few different groups. Most of the species in the aquarium trade are from South and Southeast Asia where they live in streams, ponds, and lakes.

Rasboras are some of the smallest fish species known, and most aquarium species grow to just an inch or two in length. These fish are awesome in nano aquariums, and their peaceful temperaments and great colors have made them firm favorites among fishkeepers all over the world!

11 Best Types Of Rasboras For Aquariums

Now that you know a little bit more about rasboras, it’s time to meet 11 great species that you can keep! Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you enjoy our content, please make sure to subscribe!

I’ve included the most important information to help you choose the best species for your tank. Take note of the following stats for each species:

• Scientific Name
• Difficulty Level
• Temperament
• Adult Size
• Minimum Tank Size
• Diet
• Origin
• Temperature
• pH
• Difficulty to breed
• Planted tank suitability

So let’s get started!

1. Harlequin Rasbora

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Very peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (20 gallons recommended)
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 70-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Harlequin rasbora is an amazing schooling fish for community fish tanks. These fish have awesome black triangular markings on their sides, which contrasts with their golden orange color.

Harlequin rasboras are one of the most popular aquarium species sold today because they are so peaceful and easy to care for. Keep a group of 8 or more to see the natural schooling behavior of these neat little fish.

2. Dwarf Emerald

• Scientific Name: Celestichthys erythromicron
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, and live/frozen food
• Origin: Myanmar
• Temperature: 68-75°F
• pH: 7.5-8
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The dwarf emerald rasbora (video source) is an awesome nano fish for cool water aquariums. They look very similar to galaxy rasboras/ celestial pearl danios and are actually pretty closely related. These tiny fish are really peaceful and don’t get much over an inch in size.

They are can be shy by nature but will be most comfortable and active in a well-planted aquarium. A group of 6 or more dwarf emerald rasboras would be great in a species-only nano tank, but they can also be kept with other peaceful fish of a similar size.

3. Chili Rasbora/ Mosquito

• Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Borneo
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 4-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Chili rasboras (video source) are one of the smallest fish species in the fishkeeping hobby and are also known as the mosquito rasbora. For such a small species, these little guys are really adaptable to different conditions, but they do need excellent water quality to thrive.

Chili rasbora fish do best when kept on their own but they can be kept with other small species that won’t out-compete them for food.

4. Blue Axelrodi

• Scientific Name: Sundadanio axelrodi
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, feed live/frozen food
• Origin: Indonesia, Borneo, Sumatra
• Temperature: 73-79°F
• pH: 4-6.5
• Difficulty to breed: advanced
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The blue variety of the axelrodi rasbora (video source) is true schooling fish that should be kept in large groups of 20 or more to really shine.

These tiny fish don’t always accept prepared foods, so be sure to keep a supply of live or frozen foods like daphnia or grindal worms to keep them well-fed.

5. Spotted/ Dwarf

• Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.75-1 inch
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 4-6.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The spotted, or dwarf rasbora (video source) is another tiny species that is just perfect for a planted nano tank. This colorful fish has a bright red gill cover and three black spots on its orange body.

The ideal tank mates for dwarf rasboras are shrimp, snails, and other peaceful nano fish. Keep at least ten of these social schooling fish to keep them confident and active.

6. Merah

• Scientific Name: Boraras merah
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Borneo
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 4-6.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The merah rasbora (video source) is another diminutive species for all the nano fish lovers out there! They are also known as the phoenix rasbora.

This species is very similar to the chili rasbora but is generally less colorful. Like other rasboras, these fish do best in groups because they prefer to school together.

7. Black Harlequin

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Very peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 70-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The black harlequin rasbora is a dark variant of the standard harlequin rasbora. This popular species has been a favorite amongst aquarists for over a century, and it’s easy to see why!

Black harlequin rasboras have the same care needs as the regular species.

8. Green Kubotai

• Scientific Name: Microdevario kubotai
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, flakes, and live/frozen food
• Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
• Temperature: 68-80°F
• pH: 6-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The green kubotsai rasbora (video source) has an amazing neon green body color. These tiny shoaling fish are a perfect choice for a planted aquarium.

They can be kept in a species-only tank in groups of 8 or more, or as part of a peaceful nano community.

9. Exclamation Point

• Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 0.5-0.7 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 6-7
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The exclamation point rasbora (video source) is another incredible nano fish from the Boraras genus. If the word Boraras sounds strangely familiar, that’s because this name is an anagram of the word rasbora.

The exclamation point is one of the smaller rasbora species that you would come across at just half an inch or so in length. It gets its name from the combination of a line and a dot on the fish’s body, which make a perfect exclamation point!

10. Emerald Eye

• Scientific Name: Brevibora dorsiocellata
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Thailand, Sumatra, Malaysia,
• Temperature: 68-77°F
• pH: 5-7.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The emerald eye rasbora is a great-looking schooling fish. These fish have beautiful iridescent green markings from their eyes right down to their tails.

These small rasboras are very peaceful and stay small, making them an ideal choice for a soft water community setup.

11. Scissortail

Scissortail Rasbora in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-552942″/>

• Scientific Name: Rasbora trilineata
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 73-77°F
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Difficulty to breed: Moderate
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The scissortail rasbora grows to a size of 6 inches, making it a giant of the rasbora world! Scissortail rasboras get their name from the interesting way they twitch their caudal fin.

Like the other rasboras, these schooling fish do best in groups. Scissortail rasboras are a large and active species, so naturally, they need a fairly large tank to have enough room.

Other Species

Just in case 11 species wasn’t enough, here are a few more bonus rasboras that you can look out for!

• Galaxy rasbora/ Celestial pearl danio –Danio margaritatus
• Blackline rasbora-Rasbora borapetensis
• Clown rasbora-Rasbora kalochroma
• Brilliant rasbora- Rasbora einthovenii

Tank Setup

Rasboras make great nano fish for small aquariums. Even though they may be tiny, they tend to be very active fish, so a minimum tank size of about 10 gallons is recommended for most of the smaller species.

Substrate & Decor

Sand or gravel makes a fine substrate for most rasboras, although a complete aqua soil is often a better choice for planted tanks because rasboras do best in aquariums with abundant aquatic plant growth.

Adding some driftwood and plenty of live plants will help these fish feel more at home in the aquarium. Plants like Java ferns, cryptocorynes, and amazon swords are great choices because they are easy to grow and don’t need powerful lighting.

Lighting & Filtration

Specialized lighting is not necessary for your rasbora aquarium. While bright light is great for a planted tank, it’s not necessarily the best choice for these fish.

Most rasboras prefer fairly dim lighting in the aquarium. Growing some red root floaters or other species of floating plants is a good idea because it helps maintain the dim light these fish prefer.

Rasboras are small fish that prefer still or slow-flowing water. A simple sponge filter will provide adequate filtration for most species.

For a more compact and aesthetic option, a hang-on back or internal power filter can also be used. Just be sure to set up a prefilter sponge over the intake to prevent any tiny fish from getting sucked in.

Whichever filter you prefer, make sure it is capable of excellent mechanical and biological filtration, especially if you are keeping your rasboras in a nano aquarium.

Care

Now that you know how to set up a great home for your fish, it’s time to learn how to keep them healthy. Rasboras are pretty easy to care for if you can maintain good water quality and feed them a quality diet. Choosing the right tankmates is also very important since these fish are so small.

Read on to learn about all of these things and more!

Aquarium maintenance

Most rasboras require great water quality, and that’s why regular aquarium maintenance is so important. This might not be everyone’s idea of a good time, but it’s really not such a bad deal.

Get into the habit of performing a partial water change every week, especially if you keep a nano aquarium. You can use your test kit to monitor the nitrate levels- that way you’ll know if you’re changing enough water.

Use a gravel vacuum to suck out any solid waste particles from the substrate and give your aquarium glass a good clean with your algae scraper. Once you’re done, you can sit back and admire a beautiful tank with happy rasboras for the rest of the week!

Behavior & Feeding

Most species of rasboras available in the aquarium trade are considered micro predators. In their natural freshwater habitats, they feed on tiny crustaceans and other invertebrates.

In the home aquarium, these fish prefer to feed on frozen and live foods like brine shrimp and daphnia. Most species will feed on dried foods like fish flakes and tropical granules, however. A good food to try is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano formula.

Breeding

Breeding rasboras is not very difficult. In fact, healthy adult fish will breed freely in many home aquariums. These fish produce eggs on a regular basis, so don’t be too surprised if you see some tiny fry in your tank!

Rasboras aren’t that big on eating eggs, but there are no guarantees that the eggs will be left to hatch. Fortunately, the eggs hatch after just a day or so, and the fry begin swimming 2 or 3 days after that. They will have the best chance of survival if your tank is heavily planted, and contains only rasboras.

Setting up a small breeding tank will give you a much higher success rate. A small tank with a sponge filter, some floating plants, and some broadleaved plants is ideal for this purpose. Place a conditioned pair into the tank and, with some luck, the female will lay some eggs on the underside of a leaf.

After the pair have finished breeding, they should be moved back to their regular display tank. The fry grow very fast but must be fed on tiny food like infusoria until they are able to progress to baby brine shrimp.

Tankmates

Rasboras make great fish for community tanks because they are so peaceful. Most rasbora species will get along perfectly with similarly sized community nano fish, as long as they all enjoy the same water parameters.

Let’s take a look at some ideal tank mates:

• Smaller species of corydoras catfish
• Kuhli loaches and other small peaceful loaches
• Dwarf gouramis
• Cardinal tetras

The smallest species from the Boraras genus tend to do best in a species-only tank. They can, however, be kept with inverts like:

• Adults of most species of dwarf freshwater shrimp
• Aquarium snails

Where to Buy

Some of the different rasbora species are very common in the aquarium trade. Your local fish store probably sells a few popular species, and it’s always worth asking if they can track down something they don’t have in stock.

These days the greatest selection of species can be found online. Quality retailers like Flipaquatics.com are worth checking out because they stock a wide range of great nano fish.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Rasboras are probably the best nano schooling fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish are small, peaceful, colorful, and pretty easy to care for. If you’re looking for a fish to put into a planted nano tank, look no further!

Which is your favorite rasbora species? Let me know in the comments below!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)

Most beginners assume every aquarium needs a heater. but some of the best fish in the hobby actually prefer cool water, and a few will suffer if kept too warm. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen countless coldwater fish kept in heated tropical tanks because it’s “convenient.” Short-term they look fine. Long-term they’re stressed, their immune systems are compromised, and they live a fraction of their potential lifespan. In this guide I’m covering 20 coldwater aquarium fish I’d genuinely recommend, with honest notes on the temperature range each species actually needs to thrive. not just survive.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)

The most common mistake I see with 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.

What Is A Coldwater Aquarium Fish?

Cold water aquarium fish can survive in temperatures of 70°F or lower. They are species that come from the subtropical and temperate parts of the world where the water isn’t always warm.

Unlike most tropical fish, cold-water fish do not need a heater to survive in the home aquarium. These fish are at home in the same temperatures that most people are, so the natural room temperature of your home is usually fine for them.

The Advantages

Keeping coldwater fish can have some real benefits for aquarists and the fish themselves. Let’s take a look at some of the reasons you might choose to keep cold-water fish over tropical species.

You Don’t Need A Heater

Not needing a heater to keep the water temperature in the comfortable range has a few benefits that you might not realize.

Firstly, you don’t need to buy an aquarium heater or pay for the energy they use. In this hobby, every cent counts right? You can also think of this as a more eco-friendly option.

Heaters can be unsightly too, so you’re also able to create a more natural-looking aquarium, and reduce the amount of hardware and electrical cords you need to hide.

It Can Be Safer

Power interruptions are a fact of life for many people. With an unheated tank, you don’t need to panic when the power goes out.

Even when the lights stay on, aquarium heaters can still malfunction. This is another thing you don’t have to worry about with an unheated tank.

Less Cleaning

Algae thrive in warm water, and this can be a real challenge in planted tropical fish tanks. Coldwater can be a real blessing in heavily planted aquariums and aquascapes because the plants and glass are less likely to be covered.

15 Best Tanks

Now that you know what a cold-water fish is, it’s time to get to know some of the best species for your aquarium. I’ll be listing some important stats for each species, so you can make sure you’re making the right choice. These are:

• The fish’s scientific name
• Its size when fully grown
• How easy it is to care for
• The minimum suitable tank size
• The fish’s temperament
• What the fish eats
• Where it comes from
• The water temperature the fish prefers
• It’s swimming level in the aquarium

So let’s meet them now! You can see our YouTube Video below from our channel and also follow along in our blog post:

Let’s meet our fish!

1. Japanese Rice

• Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live & frozen foods
• Origin: Eastern Asia
• Water Temperature: 64-71°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

The Japanese rice fish or Medaka fish is a great coldwater species for nano tanks. They get their name because they are often found living wild in rice paddies.

The wild type is not the most colorful fish out there, but they are amazing to watch. A golden variety, as well as some genetically modified glowing varieties, have also been developed if you’re looking for more color. These tiny schooling fish will be happiest if kept in groups of 8 or more.

2. Bloodfin Tetra

• Scientific Name: Aphyocharax anisitsi
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive, nips fins
• Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live & frozen foods
• Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay
• Water Temperature: 64-82°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The bloodfin tetra is a great schooling fish for unheated aquariums. Their blood-red fins give these silvery fish a striking look in the aquarium.

They are very hardy fish that are adaptable to a wide range of water temperatures, which means you don’t have to worry if it gets a little warmer than usual. These long-lived tetras regularly survive for over 5 years, especially if kept in groups of 6 or more.

3. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

• Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: China
• Water Temperature: 58-72°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

White cloud mountain minnows are one of the best cold-water fish in the aquarium hobby. These schooling fish get their name from the White cloud mountain in China¹, where they can be found living wild.

These peaceful fish are available in some awesome varieties including gold and long-finned types. They prefer cooler water temperatures and are easy to care for. The white cloud mountain minnow is a great choice for a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.

Mark’s Experience: White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White clouds are easy mode, and I mean that as the highest compliment. I’ve kept them and the thing most guides get wrong is recommending a heater. These fish genuinely do better at room temperature. In my tanks, 65–68°F is their sweet spot. Heating them up to tropical temperatures actually stresses them and shortens their lifespan. If you have an unheated room-temperature tank and you want a fish that will thrive rather than just survive, white cloud mountain minnows are my top pick.

4. Panda Corydoras

• Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Care Level: Easy-moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed sinking dried foods, live and frozen supplements
• Origin: Peru
• Water Temperature: 68-77°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Panda corydoras get their name from their bold black and white markings and black eyestripe. These adorable catfish are great for cold water aquariums, even though commercially bred individuals are less fussy about water temperatures than wild-caught fish.

Panda cory catfish are very peaceful and social bottom feeders that will be most confident in a school of 6 or more.

5. Guppies

• Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
• Adult Size: 1-2.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: South America and the Caribbean
• Water Temperature: 63-82°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

Guppies are one of the most popular pet fish on the planet. They are very adaptable and do just as well as cold-water fish as they do in a community tank with tropical fish. These peaceful fish have been bred to display an amazing variety of colors.

Guppies are livebearers, which means they give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. It is best to keep only one sex if you don’t want these fish to multiply in your aquarium.

6. Endler’s Livebearer

• Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
• Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: Venezuela, South America
• Water Temperature: 64-84°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

Endler’s livebearers are another awesome nano species for coldwater aquariums. These tiny fish look very similar to guppies, but they stay much smaller at under 2 inches in length. They are not cold-water fish specifically, but they are very hardy and will do great in an unheated tank in a warm home.

7. Bristle Nose Pleco

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
• Adult Size: 4-5 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Herbivore, feed algae wafers & vegetables
• Origin: Argentina
• Water Temperature: 70-79°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The bristle nose pleco is an unusual fish that is very useful for eating algae. Most people assume these fish can only be kept in tropical aquariums, but they are comfortable in most unheated aquariums and many aquarists have even managed to keep them with goldfish.

Bristlenose plecos are vegetarian fish that need plenty of driftwood to graze on. They are such efficient algae eaters that you’ll need to supplement their diet with spirulina wafers and veggies to keep them well fed. The pleco pictured above is the Albino breed.

8. Dojo Loach

• Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus
• Adult Size: 6-12 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivore, feed sinking dried foods
• Origin: Central & Eastern Asia
• Water Temperature: 59-77°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The dojo loach is a great coldwater fish species for larger aquariums. Some aquarists even keep these interesting loach fish in outdoor ponds with Koi.

The dojo loach is also known as the weather loach because they become more active when the barometric pressure changes. These interesting fish can reach up to 12 inches in length, which means they should be kept in a freshwater aquarium that holds at least 55 gallons.

9. Rosy Barb

https://youtu.be/HJmNdqwZE_Y

• Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan
• Water Temperature: 60-75°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Rosy barbs are another great species for unheated tanks. These beautiful fish have large, highly reflective scales and come in some amazing varieties like the long-fins and neons (video source).

They are social cyprinids that like to swim in larger schools, so pick up a group of 10 or more if possible. These schooling fish are easy to care for, but not the best choice for planted tanks because they tend to nibble on leaves.

10. Gold Barb

Gold Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-552736″/>

• Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
• Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
• Care Level: Peaceful
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
• Origin: China, Vietnam, Taiwan
• Water Temperature: 61-75°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater

Gold barbs are a great choice for cold water tanks with lower water temperatures. These social fish are also known as the Chinese barb fish and they should be kept in a school of at least 8.

Although wild gold barbs are greenish, the fish in the aquarium trade have been bred to have an amazing golden body color with dark blotches and reddish eyes and fins. A cool albino form is also available from time to time.

11. Axolotl

• Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum
• Adult Size: 6-12 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Carnivore, feed pellets, frozen or live food
• Origin: Mexico
• Water Temperature: 57-68°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The axolotl is also known as the Mexican walking fish, but did you know that these amazing animals are not really fish at all? Axolotls are actually amphibians, just like frogs and salamanders! These creatures make amazing and unusual pets for freshwater aquariums.

Axolotls spend their whole lives underwater and do best when kept on their own. This is because they have a tendency to eat nano fish or even each other! They need cool water and are more active in low lighting because they are nocturnal.

12. Fancy Goldfish

• Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
• Adult Size: 6-8 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: China and Eastern Asia
• Water Temperature: 65-72°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Goldfish are more than just feeder fish. The fancy goldfish is one of the best cold-water fish and one of the most popular pets in the world!

These fish are available in a huge range of different breeds, including amazing fish like orandas, ranchus, and bubble-eyes. Fancy goldfish can reach over 8 inches in length, and they need a larger tank than you might think, so don’t be tempted to set them up in a goldfish bowl from your local fish store.

Mark’s Experience: Fancy Goldfish

I’ve kept both common goldfish and the hardier fancy varieties (orandas and ryukins specifically). The biggest mistake I see new keepers make is underestimating space requirements. A common goldfish needs 30+ gallons and will outgrow a 10-gallon in months. Even fancy varieties need more room than their small size at purchase implies. The other non-negotiable in my tanks: double filtration. Goldfish are heavy bioload producers, so I run two filters on every goldfish tank. Get that right and they’re surprisingly easy to keep.

13. Sunset Variatus

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
• Adult Size: 2-2.8 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: Mexico
• Water Temperature: 68-79°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

The sunset variatus is another great little livebearer for a cold water tank. This morph of the variable platy has amazing red and yellow colors, just like the sky at sunset. Sunset variatus prefer higher pH water conditions, just like many other livebearers.

14. Celestial Pearl Danio

• Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
• Adult Size: 0.75 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: Myanmar, Thailand
• Water Temperature: 68-78°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The celestial pearl danio is an awesome nano fish species that looks amazing in a heavily planted tank. These fish are also known as galaxy rasboras or just CPDs for short.

They are fairly timid fish that prefer cooler water temperatures. Celestial pearl danios can be kept with other fish, provided their tank mates are peaceful and stay small.

15. Zebra Danio

• Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: India
• Water Temperature: 70-82°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The zebra danio is another great cold-water fish that is really underrated in the aquarium hobby. Zebra danios are peaceful and hardy fish that are easy to care for. Zebra danios are fast swimming, active danio fish that are amazing in community tanks and get along with many fish.

Mark’s Experience: Zebra Danios

I’ve kept zebra danios and one thing I always tell people: they need more space than the standard advice suggests. These fish are built for speed and they move constantly, in every direction. That frenetic energy can stress slower or more timid tankmates. I run them in a 20-gallon long minimum, not a 10-gallon, and the extra horizontal swimming room makes a noticeable difference in how settled the whole tank looks. For an unheated setup, a longer footprint is your friend.

16. Paradise

• Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: South and East Asia
• Water Temperature: 50-71°F
• Swimming Level: Top, Midwater

The paradise fish is also known as the paradise gourami or the Chinese fighting fish. These beautiful fish are related to betta fish and have all the colors of a tropical species, but are happy in an unheated tank.

Paradise fish have a reputation for being aggressive fish and do best in a species-only tank. Keep a single male and 2 or more females if you plan on keeping a group of these feisty fish.

17. Mosquito

• Scientific Name: Gambusia affinis
• Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
• Temperament: Semi-aggressive
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: USA and Mexico
• Water Temperature: 50-84°F
• Swimming Level: All levels

The mosquito fish is a small fish species that is usually kept outdoors in ponds as a mosquito larvae control. They can actually make a really fascinating cold water pet fish, however.

One thing to note is that mosquito fish can be pretty aggressive and are known to nip the fins of their tank mates. They are very hardy fish and make an interesting choice for an unheated nano tank.

18. Asian Stone Catfish

• Scientific Name: Hara jerdoni
• Adult Size: 1.2 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen foods
• Origin: Bangladesh, India
• Water Temperature: 64-75°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The Asian stone catfish (video source) is a unique little nocturnal fish for unheated aquariums. They are not super active fish and make a great choice for a nano tank.

The Asian stone catfish can also be kept in a community tank as long as its tank mates are also small and peaceful. Feeding them at night is recommended because they are clumsy and the other fish can easily out-compete them for slow sinking food like frozen brine shrimp.

19. Rosy Red Minnows

https://youtu.be/JFi6xF2fVkI

• Scientific Name: Pimephales promelas
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Care Level: Easy
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful
• Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
• Origin: Canada, USA, Mexico
• Water Temperature: 50-78°F
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Rosy red minnows are more often used as bait and feeder fish than kept as pets. That’s a shame because they are great-looking fish that are perfect for cold water tanks! Rosy red minnows can be kept in a huge range of water temperatures and are even good for ponds outdoors.

20. Pygmy Sunfish

• Scientific Name: Elassoma evergladei
• Adult Size: 1.4 inches
• Care Level: Moderate
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperament: Peaceful, shy
• Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen food
• Origin: USA
• Water Temperature: 50-72°F
• Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater

The pygmy sunfish (picture source) is a cute little fish that is native to the Southeastern United States. The breeding males have stunning iridescent blue and black colors.

Pygmy sunfish are not usually seen in fish stores, although they do great in unheated aquariums. These tiny fish are actually more popular with fish keepers over in Europe than in their native North America.

ASD Coldwater Fish Scorecard

After 25 years keeping and studying these fish, here’s how I rate all 20 species across four dimensions: ease of care, visual appeal, community safety, and availability from quality suppliers.

Species	Ease (0-3)	Visual (0-3)	Community (0-2)	Availability (0-2)	ASD Score
White Cloud Mountain Minnow	3	2	2	2	9/10 ⭐
Guppy	3	3	2	2	10/10 🏆
Panda Corydoras	3	3	2	2	10/10 🏆
Endler’s Livebearer	3	3	2	1	9/10
Bloodfin Tetra	3	2	2	1	8/10
Rosy Red Minnow	3	2	2	1	8/10
Zebra Danio	3	2	1	2	8/10
Fancy Goldfish	2	3	1	2	8/10
Bristlenose Pleco	2	2	2	2	8/10
Rosy Barb	2	3	1	2	8/10
Sunset Variatus	2	3	2	1	8/10
Celestial Pearl Danio	2	3	1	1	7/10
Common Goldfish	2	2	1	2	7/10
Gold Barb	2	3	1	1	7/10
Dojo Loach	2	2	2	1	7/10
Asian Stone Catfish	2	2	2	1	7/10
Japanese Rice Fish	2	1	2	1	6/10
Paradise Fish	1	3	0	1	5/10
Mosquito Fish	2	1	0	2	5/10
Axolotl	1	3	0	1	5/10
Pygmy Sunfish	1	3	1	0	5/10

Scoring: Ease (0–3) + Visual (0–3) + Community (0–2) + Availability (0–2) = 10 max. Ratings based on Mark Valderrama’s 25+ years of direct fishkeeping experience and community observations.

Coldwater Tank Setup

Setting up a coldwater tank is just the same as setting up a tropical tank, only you won’t be using a heater. If you live in a tropical climate, however, you might need to take some steps to manage the water temperatures.

Managing Your Tank In Warm Climates

When summer comes along and temperatures in the house begin to rise, keeping your cool water fish comfortable can be tough! Here’s a list of 6 great tips on keeping your fish cool:

1. Monitor the temperature

The most important tool for managing the temperature in your cold water aquarium is a thermometer. A cost-effective solution is to use a simple glass thermometer and keep an eye on it whenever it feels a little warm in your home.

An even better option is to use a digital thermometer with a programmable alarm. This way, you can set the device to alert you when the water temperature rises beyond a certain point. Pretty smart!

2. Use minimal equipment

Knowing the actual temperature in your tank is one thing, but what can you do to keep the temperature in the safe range for your fish?

The first thing to do is switch off or remove any unnecessary equipment in the tank. Things like lights and powerheads give off small amounts of heat and can be switched off temporarily without any harm.

It’s not only the hardware inside your tank that can warm up the water, however. Computers, televisions, refrigerators, and all sorts of appliances can warm up the air around your aquarium.

3. Choose the right lighting

You might not realize it, but some aquarium lights produce plenty of heat. Not all types of aquarium lighting produce the same amount of heat, however.

Switch to LED lighting if your lights are creating heat. This is the best option for keeping your coldwater fish comfortable.

4. Turn on the AC

The temperature of the water in your aquarium is directly affected by the temperature of the air in the room. You can keep your aquarium water temperature down by keeping the room cool with air conditioning. This might not be the most energy-efficient method, but it is very effective! Another alternative is using a mobile AC system.

5. Choose the right location

Not all areas of your home have the same temperature. The north side of your house will usually be cooler than the south if you live in America, Europe, or anywhere north of the equator.

Heat always rises, so the coolest part of your home will usually be downstairs or in the basement. Direct sunlight can heat the water in your tank, even if the air temperature is cool. Never set up an aquarium where it will receive direct sunlight.

6. Cool the water

You will need to cool down the water in your tank if you’ve followed all the tips above, and the water temperature is still rising too much.

The best way to do this is to use an aquarium chiller. These devices are not cheap, but they are very effective because they refrigerate the water. Aquarium chillers can be programmed to maintain a stable, constant temperature of your choice.

A less reliable, but much cheaper option is to run an airstone and an aquarium fan on the water surface. This works best in a tank with no hood. A mesh screen might be necessary though because many fish species can jump out of their tank.

Whichever method you use, make sure you change the temperature gradually to avoid stressing your fish.

Filtration

All aquariums should have good quality filtration to keep the water quality safe, and the tank looking beautiful. Coldwater tanks are no exception, and you can use the same varieties of aquarium filters as you would in a tropical setup.

An air-powered sponge filter is a great option because they do not create any heat and actually help to cool the water slightly. An external canister filter will provide superior filtration, however, and has the added benefit of not cluttering up the tank.

Tank Maintenance

Regular tank maintenance is really important for keeping your coldwater fish healthy and happy. A nice clean tank also looks great, so you can enjoy watching your fish even more. Here’s what you’ll need to do:

Testing

Being able to test your water parameters is really important for maintaining your fish tank. Firstly, testing will show you the pH and hardness of your water, which is very important for most species.

Testing for ammonia and nitrite will also allow you to determine whether your aquarium is cycled or not, and whether it’s safe to start introducing fish to a new tank.

Lastly, regular testing for nitrate levels is necessary to work out the perfect maintenance schedule for your tank.

Aquarium test kits are super easy to use, just make sure you buy a kit that can measure the following parameters:

• pH
• GH
• KH
• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate

Water Changes

In a healthy, cycled aquarium, beneficial bacteria break down harmful chemicals known as ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate is a lot less toxic, but in large concentrations, this compound can still be dangerous.

Growing plenty of live plants can help to lower the level of nitrates in your tank, but the best way is to physically remove them by replacing some of the water. Use your test kit to measure the nitrate in your water. Ideally, you should try to keep the nitrate levels below 20 parts per million.

The process of performing a partial water change is simple. Start by preparing some fresh water. Use a water conditioner to neutralize any chemicals and allow the water to reach the same temperature as your tank water. You will need the same amount of water as you plan on removing.

Next, suck out water from the bottom of the tank with your gravel vacuum and into a bucket or drain. This will remove all the waste particles that have settled on the substrate.

All you have to do now is add the new water to the tank. Pour it in slowly to avoid stirring up the substrate and uprooting any plants.

Other Maintenance Tasks

You’ll also want to clean the algae off your aquarium glass from time to time. You can do this whenever necessary, but I suggest doing this just before your water change. That way you can suck up any loose algae!

You’ll also need to rinse out your aquarium filter media from time to time. There are colonies of beneficial bacteria that live in the filter media of a cycled freshwater aquarium. They are sensitive to tap water, so remember to clean your filter media in the water you have removed from the tank.

Setting Up A Coldwater Community Tank

You can set up an awesome unheated community tank, even though the options are a little more limited. Read on for some handy tips to help you stock your cold water tank.

Choosing Tank Mates

Choosing the right tank mates is essential to ensure that all your pets get along in the aquarium. The most important factors when selecting tank mates are:

• Temperature compatibility
• Other parameters like pH and hardness
• Size and aggression levels

Live Plants

Coldwater aquariums are not only for fish. You can also grow a variety of awesome live plants in an unheated tank. The following beginner live plant species are all great options:

• Ludwigia repens
• Java moss
• Java fern
• Amazon sword

You’ll need to read up on the needs of each plant species to learn how to care for them because their needs do vary.

What About Freshwater Tank Shrimp And Snails?

The good news is that you can keep freshwater invertebrates in a coldwater tank too! Not all inverts like cool water, however.

The following species are safe bets:

• Cherry shrimp (Neocardinia) – Minimum temperature 65°F
• Caridina shrimp – Minimum temperature 64°F
• Amano shrimp – Minimum temperature 64°F
• Malaysian trumpet snails – Minimum temperature 65°F
• Japanese trapdoor snail – Minimum temperature 68°F

Shrimp and snails are great because they help to keep your aquarium clean. Shrimp don’t always make the best tank mates for community tanks, however. Some cold-water species like paradise fish will probably see your shrimp as a tasty snack!

Where To Buy

You can usually find the more popular coldwater species at your local fish stores. Another great place to shop aquarium fish is online, especially if you’re looking for specific fish species.

FAQs

What About Koi?

Koi carp are an amazing coldwater fish, however, they require a large pond and their care are beyond the scope of this blog post. I felt it was best to cover them separate to not confuse readers. If you want to learn more about Koi, check out koi care articles.

Expert Take

I see more failed coldwater setups than heated ones, because people underestimate what “no heater” actually means. It does not mean no temperature management. It means keeping the tank in a space that stays at 60–72°F (16–22°C) year-round. In most homes, that is harder than just adding a heater. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate. Coldwater tanks require stable cool temperatures that many homes cannot provide without active cooling. Simpler in some ways, more demanding in others.

Hard Rule: Coldwater fish require stable temperatures of 60–72°F (16–22°C). If your home exceeds 75°F (24°C) during summer, a chiller or climate-controlled space is required. Not optional.

The Reality of Keeping Coldwater Aquariums

Coldwater tanks require active temperature management in most homes, especially in summer. A fan across the water surface can reduce temperature by 2–4°F (1–2°C), but extended heat waves require more. This is the constraint that catches most beginners off-guard when they choose a “no-heater setup” for simplicity.

Is the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Right for You?

Before you add a 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:

• Your home stays above 75°F (24°C) for extended periods without a way to cool the tank
• You want to combine coldwater species with tropical fish that need 78°F+ water
• You want a completely hands-off, maintenance-free setup. Temperature monitoring is still required
• You live in a warm climate without air conditioning or basement access

How the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) stacks up against some common alternatives.

The 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Cold water aquarium fish are underrated in the hobby. Many of them are super easy to care for and make awesome pets. If you’re looking to start up a new tank, maybe you should think about ditching the heater and stocking some of the fish on this list!

What’s your favorite cold water fish species? Let me know below!